For the 3/8 tube between the fuel tank and the fuel pump, I cut a piece 24" long and flared one end. I think that grease does a better job then oil on the point of the flaring tool. Just use your thumb and forefinger right next to the flaring tool shaft. This is one case where more is NOT better. As soon as you feel resistance, stop turning. A sleeve will not slide past a bend so make sure it is in position and orientated correctly before bending. A nut WILL go around a bend. I have bender similar to this one: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/triplehdrbender.php
It will not bend as close to the end as Van's bender. I did manage to get it a little bit closer by placing the stepped-down portion of the sleeve under the bender hook and with the shoulder of the sleeve against the left side of the hook. Keep the nut back out of the way. After making the first bend, I laid the long part of the tube on the bench with the short end pointing straight up and measured from the table up to the shoulder of the sleeve and found it to be 2 7/16". This distance is called the stub-up. Knowing this distance helps with subsequent bends. If anyone wants to read more about stub-ups, here is a link: http://www.porcupinepress.com/_bending/StubUps.htm The rule of thumb for bending stub-ups is that the end that you measured from goes on the left side of the bender. Since the 3/8" tube takes a shortcut around corners, it gains about 3/4" in length going around a 90 degree bend compared to the square-corner distance.
For the second bend, I measured the drawing of the tube from top of the page to bottom at 6 9/16". Subtracting the stub-up distance of 2 7/16" equals 4 1/8". I set the pump end of the tube on the table with the long tube pointing straight up and measured from the table up and put a mark at 4 1/8". Put the tube in the bender with the pump end on the LEFT and the tank end on the RIGHT and put the mark on the left side of the hook. After making the bend, do not forget to put both nuts and the remaining sleeve onto the tube before making the flare on the tank end.
The vertical part of the tube that connects to the tank needs to be 3 7/16" long. Subtracting 2 7/16" for the stub-up gives 1". Make a mark 1" from the tank end of the tube. Put the tube in the bender with the tank-end to the LEFT and the pump-end to the RIGHT and with the mark on the left edge of the hook.
I made the 15 degree bend last. I marked the tube 6" as shown for dimension A-A and lined the mark up with the 15 degree line on the bender. I was hoping that 24" was going to be long enough and it turned out to be exactly right. The tube lined up perfectly with the drawing. How lucky could I be?
My luck did not hold though. I made a perfect length of tube to connect the valve with the flow meter. It was the right length. The angles were bent correctly. I remembered to put the nuts and sleeves on. It was beautiful. Then I realized that it would not fit through the bushing in the bulkhead with the nut and sleeve and flare already on both ends. LOL
Here is what I learned installing the fuel system: Buy an extra 12 feet ($16) of tube from Van's well in advance of working on the fuel system. It will be needed.
Joe Gores
It will not bend as close to the end as Van's bender. I did manage to get it a little bit closer by placing the stepped-down portion of the sleeve under the bender hook and with the shoulder of the sleeve against the left side of the hook. Keep the nut back out of the way. After making the first bend, I laid the long part of the tube on the bench with the short end pointing straight up and measured from the table up to the shoulder of the sleeve and found it to be 2 7/16". This distance is called the stub-up. Knowing this distance helps with subsequent bends. If anyone wants to read more about stub-ups, here is a link: http://www.porcupinepress.com/_bending/StubUps.htm The rule of thumb for bending stub-ups is that the end that you measured from goes on the left side of the bender. Since the 3/8" tube takes a shortcut around corners, it gains about 3/4" in length going around a 90 degree bend compared to the square-corner distance.
For the second bend, I measured the drawing of the tube from top of the page to bottom at 6 9/16". Subtracting the stub-up distance of 2 7/16" equals 4 1/8". I set the pump end of the tube on the table with the long tube pointing straight up and measured from the table up and put a mark at 4 1/8". Put the tube in the bender with the pump end on the LEFT and the tank end on the RIGHT and put the mark on the left side of the hook. After making the bend, do not forget to put both nuts and the remaining sleeve onto the tube before making the flare on the tank end.
The vertical part of the tube that connects to the tank needs to be 3 7/16" long. Subtracting 2 7/16" for the stub-up gives 1". Make a mark 1" from the tank end of the tube. Put the tube in the bender with the tank-end to the LEFT and the pump-end to the RIGHT and with the mark on the left edge of the hook.
I made the 15 degree bend last. I marked the tube 6" as shown for dimension A-A and lined the mark up with the 15 degree line on the bender. I was hoping that 24" was going to be long enough and it turned out to be exactly right. The tube lined up perfectly with the drawing. How lucky could I be?
My luck did not hold though. I made a perfect length of tube to connect the valve with the flow meter. It was the right length. The angles were bent correctly. I remembered to put the nuts and sleeves on. It was beautiful. Then I realized that it would not fit through the bushing in the bulkhead with the nut and sleeve and flare already on both ends. LOL
Here is what I learned installing the fuel system: Buy an extra 12 feet ($16) of tube from Van's well in advance of working on the fuel system. It will be needed.
Joe Gores