Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Spot prime
- Thread starter LAMPSguy
- Start date
LAMPSguy
Well Known Member
Alodine pen
My thought was to use an alodine pen on the holes immediately after countersinking. The directions say to just use water and a scotchbrite pad, if I use boelube to drill the holes, will I need more than water to remove that?
Also, there are a few places in the corners where the anodization has scraped off, can I just scotchbrite that and then use the pen?
My thought was to use an alodine pen on the holes immediately after countersinking. The directions say to just use water and a scotchbrite pad, if I use boelube to drill the holes, will I need more than water to remove that?
Also, there are a few places in the corners where the anodization has scraped off, can I just scotchbrite that and then use the pen?
I just went around with a Q-tip and dabbed, or twirrled the primer.
I didn't use a cutting lube when I countersunk the spar. I'm wearing out my countersink cutter faster, but oh well. Tool steel vs aluminum, it's not going to break the bank.
In your situation, I'd just wash it off with dish soap and water. Then rinse the spar well, let dry then prime. I wouldn't worry too much about mechanically or chemically etching the countersunk holes. You could argue it already is mechanically etched by the countersink cutter.
Alodine pen is a pretty good idea. Alternatively use a Q-tip and undiluted alodine.
Where the annodization is gone, I'd acid etch (Alumaprep), alodine and prime. Your not worried about the acid removing the annodization because it's already gone. Just make sure you sand away any stress risers, AKA scratches (sanding also mechanically etches).
I didn't use a cutting lube when I countersunk the spar. I'm wearing out my countersink cutter faster, but oh well. Tool steel vs aluminum, it's not going to break the bank.
In your situation, I'd just wash it off with dish soap and water. Then rinse the spar well, let dry then prime. I wouldn't worry too much about mechanically or chemically etching the countersunk holes. You could argue it already is mechanically etched by the countersink cutter.
Alodine pen is a pretty good idea. Alternatively use a Q-tip and undiluted alodine.
Where the annodization is gone, I'd acid etch (Alumaprep), alodine and prime. Your not worried about the acid removing the annodization because it's already gone. Just make sure you sand away any stress risers, AKA scratches (sanding also mechanically etches).
Lemmingman
Well Known Member
I used an alodine pen on the countersinks. Anywhere I marred the spar with a rivet gun I did my normal fix with scotchbrite and cleaned it real good with water followed by acetone. Then I used my alodine pen on top of that. In some places where I wasn't happy with the alodine coverage I applied some Rustoleum clean metal primer. Boelube cleans nicely with just a dry towel, usually. I will sometimes use Extreme Simple Green if I need extra cleaning power.
