fastback
My -4 is fastback. My website has some information on it.
http://www.precision3d.com/rv4/rv4fuse.htm
The usual way to do this is to take a stock RV-4 fuse kit and buy the harmon components for the top-aft section. But I was told that there are some difficulties mating the harmon parts to the stock fuselage. So I did the whole thing myself from scratch with 0.025 aluminum. It came out ok, If I could do it again, I probably would do the same but be a bit more careful about drilling the F-407 bulkhead to the sheet. It's makes an awkward double-bend angle that I didn't check for a nice flat true face. So it's a little squew.
As for the canopy. Again, the standard way is to mangle the stock canopy. Again, I decided to do it custom for the following reasons:
- For PIC head clearance, I pushed the canopy forward so the tip of the canopy is about 1/2 way down the glare shield. (like an RV-3)... vs. right at the panel (like an RV-4).
- I angled the panel about 25 degrees. Typically -3 or -4 instrument panels are almost square to the longerons.
My canopy is tip-up. I bought the 6061 stock, layed it out (with the canopy jigged in place, bent the tube. I then gave the lot of bits to a professional welder. It came out shockingly [to me] well. I mated the standard Todds HR canopy to the canopy frame using the Sika adhesive system.
Todd's Canopies:
http://www.toddscanopies.com/
Todd's instructions on using Sika:
http://www.toddscanopies.com/bondrv8.htm
This Sika thing went really well. Relative to the old soft-rivets; Sika is far superior.
With some ingeniuty, I could have done a slider, and still could. But I dont really want it. I'd nead to fabricate a RV-8 like rollbar and a track system. There's also an issue with this HR canopy having clearance sliding past the pilots head. It's a low-profile canopy with marginal head-room. Pushing the canopy forward that foot really helped a lot though, so maybe it's not that big an issue, if you did that too.
-Bruce