Need to ask the group for advice. I've experienced 3 Lasar failures in the past 6 years. The latest is another sensor mag failure, the same mag I replaced less than 200hrs ago. I bought this aircraft with the Lasar already installed, and now I've decided to remove the Lasar equipment and return to a traditional Slick mag installation. I don't know what was originally installed. My engine is a O360 A1D. I have determined I need a Slick 4347 and 4370. Will the Lasar plug wire harness work, or will I need a new one? Will I need the jumper installed on the ACS mag switch? Is there a better solution? Am I missing anything? When I'm back up and running again, all my Lasar stuff will be for sale. Timing box, 2 diag cables, control box, etc..
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Removing Lasar
- Thread starter artrose
- Start date
Mike S
Senior Curmudgeon
Welcome to VAF!!!!
Art, welcome to VAF.
Good to have you here, first new member of the year---far as I have noticed.
You might want to consider E/Pmags as a replacement also.
I am flying with a Lasar too, only about 6 hours so far-----Great concept but poor execution and support, IMHO.
As in your case, previous owner installed system.
Wish I had better info for you, but I do not know the answers you are looking for.
Just give it a few days, you will probably get what you need offered up.
VAF database is pretty awesome!!
Art, welcome to VAF.
Good to have you here, first new member of the year---far as I have noticed.
You might want to consider E/Pmags as a replacement also.
I am flying with a Lasar too, only about 6 hours so far-----Great concept but poor execution and support, IMHO.
As in your case, previous owner installed system.
Wish I had better info for you, but I do not know the answers you are looking for.
Just give it a few days, you will probably get what you need offered up.
VAF database is pretty awesome!!
I am not going to be able to answer all of your questions but I can say that the LASAR harness will NOT work with the Slick mags. You will need a new wire (a shielded wire is preferred) to run from each mag to the switch. (two wires total. One from each mag to the switch.) IF you are using an electronic tach, it will also need to be wired in. If using a mechanical tach, nothing will be needed to be changed.
Unable to answer about the jumper on the key switch. Follow this link or this link to see what the Aircraft Spruce web site has to say about the jumper. I would recommend tracking down that info based on the switch and mags that you use.
Most Lycoming engines have the impulse mag on the left and there is a spacer used between the mag and accessory case. Some Lycoming engines have impulse mags on both sides and that also means a spacer on both sides.
Mike S
Senior Curmudgeon
Pretty sure he is asking about the high tension leads to the spark plugs.
Gary is correct about the lead to the switch.
As to the spark plugs, I dont know for sure, but it sure looks like they are the same.
Capflyer
Well Known Member
Before you give up on electronic ignition there are a few choices out there that all are much more dependable. First as Mike suggested is the P-Mags, second is Lightspeed, and last is Electroair. I had a dual lightspeed on my last plane and the Electroair on my RV4. I like the Electroair better and it has performed flawlessly since I installed it over the summer. I am getting about .5gph better fuel consumption on everyday playing around and about 1 gph better on XC cruise flight over the dual Slicks I had prior. No real moving parts so less maintenance. Plugs have stayed beautifully clean and CHT's dropped. I can run my normally aspirated engine at 25deg LOP on a XC without any engine vibration from detonation.
jmjula
Well Known Member
Here is a schematic of wiring the ACS switch to dual Mags from AeroElectric: http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z26K_27K.pdf
replacing lasar system
Hi Art, I too bought a 6A with lasar ignition. After it became very hard to start and almost stranded me a couple of times I decided to replace it. I went with a Slick impulse mag on the left and an Electroair system on the right. First off if your lasar system didn't include the "bush kit" (which added an impulse coupling to the left mag) and assuming you go with a Slick impulse mag on the left, you will need an impulse mag gear and a spacer. I bought the spacer from ECI and got a new in the box gear from Ebay.You will also need longer studs for the left mag attach due to the spacer (also available from ECI). The other poster(s) are correct you will need to remove the lasar harness and install (at least one) P lead (for each conventional mag). ACS sells them pre made or you can buy the shielded wire yourself and make one up. ACS mentions the wire type in the pre made P lead description. As far as jumpering the ignition switch that will depend on what you choose for your new ignition system. If you go with 2 slicks then you will need the jumper. If you go with one Slick and one EI then it kind of depends on your battery. It seems that if you have a marginal battery (either capacity or from age) it can pull the voltage down below what the EI can operate correctly (causing kickback and possible gear damage). I had a big odyessy batt (a 980 or 960?) I don't remember but it was one discussed on these forums as fitting the standard batt box when turned on it's side so I left the jumper off and all was well. The Electoair system was a lot of work to install. I can't imagine many people doing it in the 6 hours they claim. They screwed up every aspect of my order even after verbally confirming and following up with an email. They also broke a promise to ship the harness by a certain date (that's another story that we won't go into here). I will say that once it was installed it did work great. Last fall I wasn't sure about the Pmag. I still wouldn't go with 2 of them but I think if I had it to do over I'd go with one slick and one Pmag just for the ease of installation.
Sorry for the long winded post. If you want I can probably dig out the P/N's for the gear/spacer/studs. Also I don't want to disappoint you but there doesn't seem to be much of a market for used lasar stuff. I'm considering turning in one of my mags for core value ($150).
Gunther
Hi Art, I too bought a 6A with lasar ignition. After it became very hard to start and almost stranded me a couple of times I decided to replace it. I went with a Slick impulse mag on the left and an Electroair system on the right. First off if your lasar system didn't include the "bush kit" (which added an impulse coupling to the left mag) and assuming you go with a Slick impulse mag on the left, you will need an impulse mag gear and a spacer. I bought the spacer from ECI and got a new in the box gear from Ebay.You will also need longer studs for the left mag attach due to the spacer (also available from ECI). The other poster(s) are correct you will need to remove the lasar harness and install (at least one) P lead (for each conventional mag). ACS sells them pre made or you can buy the shielded wire yourself and make one up. ACS mentions the wire type in the pre made P lead description. As far as jumpering the ignition switch that will depend on what you choose for your new ignition system. If you go with 2 slicks then you will need the jumper. If you go with one Slick and one EI then it kind of depends on your battery. It seems that if you have a marginal battery (either capacity or from age) it can pull the voltage down below what the EI can operate correctly (causing kickback and possible gear damage). I had a big odyessy batt (a 980 or 960?) I don't remember but it was one discussed on these forums as fitting the standard batt box when turned on it's side so I left the jumper off and all was well. The Electoair system was a lot of work to install. I can't imagine many people doing it in the 6 hours they claim. They screwed up every aspect of my order even after verbally confirming and following up with an email. They also broke a promise to ship the harness by a certain date (that's another story that we won't go into here). I will say that once it was installed it did work great. Last fall I wasn't sure about the Pmag. I still wouldn't go with 2 of them but I think if I had it to do over I'd go with one slick and one Pmag just for the ease of installation.
Sorry for the long winded post. If you want I can probably dig out the P/N's for the gear/spacer/studs. Also I don't want to disappoint you but there doesn't seem to be much of a market for used lasar stuff. I'm considering turning in one of my mags for core value ($150).
Gunther
but wait, there's more 
Forgot to mention the possible tach issue. The lasar mags have 4 magnetic poles vs 2 magnetic poles on a standard slick mag. So if you are running an electronic tach that has a sensor that picks up the magnetic field from the mag it will read half speed when you switch to a standard mag. I was using a JPI slimline tach and it needed to be returned to JPI to have the "lasar mod" removed. Maybe other electronic tachs would let you set "pulses per revolution" so you could fix that problem yourself. Another option would be to use the tach output from the EI.
The new plug wires are more picky about placement. With the higher voltage from the EI the wires can't be bundled together like mag ignition wires. I would also recommend going ahead and buying 4 of those "BY" sparkplugs that Electroair recommends. It seems like it would be darn near impossible to gap a standard plug out to 30 thousands.
Anyway hope this helps in you decision making process.
Gunther
Forgot to mention the possible tach issue. The lasar mags have 4 magnetic poles vs 2 magnetic poles on a standard slick mag. So if you are running an electronic tach that has a sensor that picks up the magnetic field from the mag it will read half speed when you switch to a standard mag. I was using a JPI slimline tach and it needed to be returned to JPI to have the "lasar mod" removed. Maybe other electronic tachs would let you set "pulses per revolution" so you could fix that problem yourself. Another option would be to use the tach output from the EI.
The new plug wires are more picky about placement. With the higher voltage from the EI the wires can't be bundled together like mag ignition wires. I would also recommend going ahead and buying 4 of those "BY" sparkplugs that Electroair recommends. It seems like it would be darn near impossible to gap a standard plug out to 30 thousands.
Anyway hope this helps in you decision making process.
Gunther
I've owned two aircraft each with one LSE ignition (Plasma 2 on the first with Hall-Effect sensor and Plasma III on the second with crank sensor). Both have worked reliably and without complaint.
I do like the concept of the E-Mags too, but back when I was making my decision there were still reports coming in of failures from the earlier units. Haven't heard of that in quite a while now - I'm thinking they've identified and fixed the root cause.
Don't go backwards. Electronic ignition is ever so much nicer.
I do like the concept of the E-Mags too, but back when I was making my decision there were still reports coming in of failures from the earlier units. Haven't heard of that in quite a while now - I'm thinking they've identified and fixed the root cause.
Don't go backwards. Electronic ignition is ever so much nicer.
The newest version of the Electroair is an Electromotive XDI. For info beyond Electroair documentation look here.
http://www.electromotive-inc.com/products/xdi.html
Yes they are not as easy to install as the older Jeff Rose/Electroair ignitions. Overly complex wiring harness. (One size fits 1-12 cylinders!) It's a shame, since there was nothing wrong with the older design, and it was real easy to install. Easier than an LSE even. Save several hundred dollars if you can buy an Electomotive and install yourself. The only tricky bit is the crank angle sensor.
http://www.electromotive-inc.com/products/xdi.html
Yes they are not as easy to install as the older Jeff Rose/Electroair ignitions. Overly complex wiring harness. (One size fits 1-12 cylinders!) It's a shame, since there was nothing wrong with the older design, and it was real easy to install. Easier than an LSE even. Save several hundred dollars if you can buy an Electomotive and install yourself. The only tricky bit is the crank angle sensor.
Capflyer
Well Known Member
For clarification:
Electroair and Electromotive are two different companies. The Electroair is an excellent system. It is the newer version and greatly improved Jeff Rose system. www.electroair.net The system was easy to install and has worked flawlessly since I installed it. It is currently undergoing approval for an STC so it can be installed in certified aircraft. http://www.aopa.org/members/files/pilot/2010/november/frugal.html
I had a dual Lightspeed II ignition system in my last RV and I like the Electroair much better and trust it more. I had a few issues with the Lightspeeds.
G3i Ignition
Well Known Member
Slick Mag Source/Parts
I usually have 2004 and newer Slick 4370,4371, 4373 series mag cores that are in good condition that I stock for parts and or complete units for $180.00.
Thomas S.
I usually have 2004 and newer Slick 4370,4371, 4373 series mag cores that are in good condition that I stock for parts and or complete units for $180.00.
Thomas S.
N941WR
Legacy Member
I've been working closely with E-mag over the last few years and yes, they have identified and fixed the problems.
They had two basic issues. One was the trigger magnet retention method. That was resolved at the same time they fixed the lost timing software problem. The software bug was a result of where the TDC mark was stored. They moved the location and how it was read.
Those fixes were made about 2007. If people sent their E/P-mags in for the free upgrades, they haven't had problems.
denbobp
Well Known Member
yes they are a good outfit
I have had a couple of oppty's to have mags rebuilt there and they are courteous and take pride in what they do. They were honest in telling me one time that it would be better to purchase a new mag then rebuild the one I brought in.
I have had a couple of oppty's to have mags rebuilt there and they are courteous and take pride in what they do. They were honest in telling me one time that it would be better to purchase a new mag then rebuild the one I brought in.
