Broken Burraway -- part source?

Hi folks:

I tipped my drill over with my .093 Burraway in it and bent the shaft. Of course that ruined the blade slot alignment, so now I need to either replace the tool or buy a new shaft. Cogsdill hasn't responded to my email, are there other sources out there for parts, or am I stuck buying a replacement?

Antony

aparchment said:

Hi folks:
I tipped my drill over with my .093 Burraway in it and bent the shaft. Of course that ruined the blade slot alignment, so now I need to either replace the tool or buy a new shaft. Cogsdill hasn't responded to my email, are there other sources out there for parts, or am I stuck buying a replacement?Antony

Click to expand...

On the production line, we were forced to use a Burraway in a few situations where you could not reach to deburr in any other way. Many production workers generally hated the thing and would only use a Burraway when no other way to deburr was realistic. Typically, the retractable blade would start getting stuck or an operator induced side load would slightly warp the shaft. What happened in your personal experience was quite typical, usually caused by someone tripping over an air hose. It happened all the time and the tool was then considered useless trash. But unlike you, we only had to walk to the tool crib and get a new one. Acceptable deburring can be accomplished in any number of ways including simply adjusting your countersink cutter in its cage to just touch the surface of the material to shave the burr off. That is still a lot of work though. One of the simplest and fastest ways to deburr is a few quick turns with this foolproof device.

Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"

MSC Industrial Supply sells blades, but not sure about the shanks. I'm assuming
you want just the part that plugs into the arbor, the bit that actually holds
the blade. If you find a place that does sell all the separate parts, please post.

keep you posted

Thanks guys:

John, I will let you know what I find.

Rick, the tool you pictured is what I have resorted to using since the burraway is dead. I find it more difficult to get good results with it on the inside of thin ribs. I found the burraway faster once I got it set up properly. Perhaps in a production line environment it isn't the ideal tool due to less tolerance of misalignment, but I think in a slower paced homebuilder environment it seems to work quite nicely. It basically cuts deburring time in half.

Antony

Call 'em

Don't waste your time waiting for Cogsdill to email you back, pick up the phone and give 'em a call.

When I bought mine, I was told by Cogsdill that it is very difficult to replace the blades on the .093 version, and that most people send them back to Cogsdill for replacement. My point being, it sounds like they are set-up to perform repairs.

Msc

MSC is where I purchased mine last year. I also picked up an extra blade at that time but have already broken that one too. Love the tool especially for the uses you mentioned. I can't justify at this stage of my project getting another blade though.

They are expensive but at Oshkosh, one of the used tool vendors had multiple sizes all in great condition for $1 each. I have a few sets now in all sizes so I'll let the secret out. Sure beats the $70 I spent one new one!

Replacing the blades in the .093 is actually easy, once you decide not to use
Cogsdill's microscopic retaining pin. This assumes the shank is still OK.
Breaking blades on these drove me nuts, and at five bucks a pop from
MSC, they're not cheap either. But probably cheaper than the blade and
the whole shank.

This trick assumes you've mangled the teeny tiny retaining pin (like I did)
by not having proper implements to remove and reinsert it.

It requires some fine work, so a magnifying glass helps.

1. Pop the old pin out with a safety pin or sewing needle.
2. Remove old blade.
3. Put new blade in, using sewing needle as retaining pin.
4. Adjust the tension with the sewing needle retaining the
blade and the shank inserted into the arbor, locked down
by the setscrew.
5. Cut the sewing needle off on either side of the shank as
close as possible.
6. Grind down the remaining protruding ends of the sewing
needle (now retaining pin) until they are flush with the
surface of the shank.
7. Resume deburring.

Blade tension is key on these. Moving too fast in and out of
a hole with a stiff blade will snap it quicker than snot. Moving
too slow will take off too much metal. It's the balance of the
two that you want.

John, thanks for posting this. When I bought mine, I purchased an extra blade (despite what I was told), and your instructions will come in handy.