What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

LSE sensor wire routing

bkc3921

bkc3921

Well Known Member
Does anyone have a preferred routing of the sensor wire from the ring gear area to the brainbox?..specifically, that little gray wire doesn't look like much, and I was wondering if it needed to be sleeved or protected in some way..or clearance to hot or exhaust items was necessary..could not find anything in the instructions about it....any thoughts appreciated.
 
You'll find some earlier discussion about the type of wire supplied; if it's accessible, you will probably find it worthwhile to replace it with something a little more heat resistant. Also, Klaus mentions keeping it away from the high tension leads (spark plug wires). The only way I found to do this was to route it along the baffle out to the cylinder heads (right side, in my case) and back along with the CHT/EGT sensor leads. While the wire is on the hot side of the baffles, it is away from the major heat sources. I'll be keeping my eye on it just in case anyway.
 
I ran mine on the bottom left side of the engine - with a few adel clamps attached to the oil pan bolts. On the way from the starter ring it passes through the left bottom baffle 'ramp' through a plastic grommet.

I used the supplied wire - 250ish hours with no heat damage, chafing etc...
 
Last edited:
Substandard Wire

Route it very carefully. It is not aircraft quality wire. What's the rest of your wiring made of? Now would be a good time to do it right......
And while you're at it, check the connectors. There are much better ones available at very resonable cost.
 
Last edited:
I covered my sensor cables with heat shrink tubing first before installing. I didn't like that plenum cable either. After 75 hours, they look fine. I routed them together with the starter cable on the lower left side of the engine. The starter cable is a pretty stout "structural" member that's a nice place to hang the cables from. Klaus says not to run the sensor cables together with "high current" wires, but the starter cable only carries current during cranking, so to me that's a non-issue. The engine starts just fine, so it doesn't seem to be an issue.

Heinrich Gerhardt
RV-6, flying
 
My first attempt at posting pictures. There is 1/2 clearance under inj line and 1 1/2 " under plug wires.










Bruce 9A (painting)
 
Here you go. ImageShack provides a set of codes to copy/paste to various locations. You want to use the box labeled Forums and copy the first line. You can just paste into the message, no need to use the URL or image buttons.



 
Last edited:
I also ran mine along the crankcase seal with some adel clamps. It runs under the cyliners and then up the back side of the engine. clamped to the engine mount. I have over 250 hours on this without any problems.

If you do decide to replace the wire, make sure you don't create more problems than you fix. If you don't have access to the sensor, then you are going to cut and splice wires somewhere up front and that just invites vibration induced breaks, IMO. I have a LSE on my current build project and I intend to leave the wire as it is and just keep it away from the exhaust.
 
I can remove the Baffles or wiring without cutting either, (slots cut in baffles).












Bruce 9A (painting)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top