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Firewall Diagrams

petehowell

petehowell

Well Known Member
Hello,

Does anyone have diagrams or pics of all the firewall penetrations for a FP and/or CS RV-9A with an O320? I have the FF kit and am just looking for any more information as I start building out front.


TIA

Pete
 
I used the positoins on the Vans drawings and they worked out great. I have an o320-D2G with a FP prop. The only thing I would watch out for is take into consideration what you will use where the the cables go throught the firewall (gromets, eyeball, etc). Sometimes the different eyeballs require a larger space around them. I believe that Vans assumes you will be using small plastic snap bushings.
 
Pete,

A general guide that has worked well for me is as follows:

1) Mount the heat box as high/right as the mount will allow.

2) Plan for a wire exit low on the right side even with the crankcase. Use this wire run for the "noisy" wires like starter, alternator, field, and magneto wires.

3) Plan a wire exit high on the left side for all the other wires firewall forward.

4) Mount a sender manifold high in the left center to miss the magneto and oil filter. This is where you will mount your senders and hoses.

See the thread titled "Firewall Integrity" before drilling any holes. Here's a link to a picture of my firewall.

http://www.pflanzer-aviation.com/Engine4.html#Firewall Prep
 
RV-7A or RV-9A Mixture Cable

Hello,

I am going to use the blue aluminium eyballs for my engine cables - all looks well except for the one for the mixture cable which will end up too close to the fuel pump doubler. How did you guys make that one work?

ECI O-320, CS, CARB

My thought is to just slide it to the left... thoughts.

Thanks,

Pete
 
Pete

I used those blue eyeballs and the stock Van's locations for the cables. All worked out well. For the carb heat cable I used one of the compression style bulkhead fittings. I had to make a little extension for it in order to tighten down the nut. I'll be out of town for a week or so but it you need any pictures I can send them after Christmas.
 
un screwed?

N916K said:
Pete I used those blue eyeballs and the stock Van's locations for the cables. All worked out well. For the carb heat cable I used one of the compression style bulkhead fittings. I had to make a little extension for it in order to tighten down the nut. I'll be out of town for a week or so but it you need any pictures I can send them after Christmas.
Click to expand...
The firewall pass through's are great but make sure the blue screw on kind can't back out. I don't have them myself but have heard of one coming un-screwed. May be loc-tight of safety wire is needed? george
 
gmcjetpilot said:
The firewall pass through's are great but make sure the blue screw on kind can't back out. I don't have them myself but have heard of one coming un-screwed. May be loc-tight of safety wire is needed? george
Click to expand...

Yes they will come unscrewed. I use Shoe Goop, (sold under many other names) to keep things like that from unscrewing. It drys quickly, sticks under most all conditions and can be removed without too much work. Works great in most all high vibration areas.

cam
 
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HI George

Merry Christmas! I think you have a good idea here. The local building guru uses these and mentioned the same thing to me a few days ago. I'll look into some locking.

I have learned a lot from your posts this year, look forward to more in the coming year when I hopefully get the -9A off the ground.

The Goop is good poop. I use it lots of places (kids break stuff)
 
Tight Fit

Hello,



Here you see my issue. I can get an eyeball on the the thottle cable, but it gets too tight to stack one below for carb heat. The Mixture cable is right next to the the fuelpump doubler.

Any thoughts?

TIA,
 
Try Cable Safe

If I remember correctly I had to cut into the doubler for the fuel pump. I wasn't able to use oan eyeball for the carb heat. I used a Cable Safe for the carb heat. I had to put a spacer on ther cable safe to move the nut far enough out so that I could get a wrench on it. Search for Cable Safe at Spruce. I believe they now make a larger version that may work on the larger control cables, if so I would consider those if the cable doesn't have to come through the bulkhead at an angle.
 
Thanks Cam

I visited an RV-7 builder today and we took his cowl off and found a mixture of eyeballs and cable safes.

I found a post on another forum on how to make cable safes, so I made one for my cabin heat cable. It turned out OK, but not great.

Pre -made ones come in 2 sizes and a split design for the big cables.

I'll have to order some up.

Pete
 
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