Poll on stock pitot tube or other

How many of you are using the stock Van's pitot tube vs something more robust or sophisticated?

I'm using a stainless steel version,
It shouldn't bend quite so easily.
It looks the same as the stock pitot tube.
Tom

Dynon for me

With the Gretz mount. This will give me an AOA all for the $200 price of the Dynon pitot tube.

Dummy me followed the Van's direction, drilled the hole for their pitot and then had to figure out how to fill later. Duh!

Fast looking airplane, Slow looking stock pitot tube!

Stock looks too slow standing still. I used the upgraded type for real airplanes!

Depends...are you doing VFR sport flying? If so, the stock type, only from stainless steel tubing is the cheapest and easiest way to go. I had one on my -6 and it worked great. You can't beat the ease of installation.
If you are doing IFR, then get a standard post and pitot from SafeAir or one of the certificated manufacturers. This translates to $$$$$$$ and more work to install. They all give the same basic result.

Only day/night VFR for now so I am not planning on heating. I like the simplicity of the current design, but the Aluminum seemed to be easily damaged. When you use stainless, how far do you take it before splicing in the stock system?

the stainless tube is $12 at van's.. and it has flared fittings so you just screw it into the bulkhead fitting in wing spar's flange. no special splicing necessary.

Stock pitot makeover

I wonder how hard it would be to use the stock tube, but enclose it in a fiberglass and foam fairing. Just as cheap but potentially a lot better looking. Any thoughts?

Dynon w/AOA for me, unless something better comes along in the next year. I learned from Bill's mistake. I haven't drilled Van's pitot hole in my spar! Thanks Bill!

I used this type. Not heated but Pitot and Static all in one.

-Jeff

Alex said:

I wonder how hard it would be to use the stock tube, but enclose it in a fiberglass and foam fairing. Just as cheap but potentially a lot better looking. Any thoughts?

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I'm not sure about the savings, what is your time worth? It seems like you will spend a good bit of time working with the fiberglass and then what do you do if there is a problem?

used pitot

I bought a used heated pitot that was broken (heater part was non-op) for about $30. I installed it knowing the heat does not work. When I want to go IFR later I will replace it with one that has the heat and all the fittings will be there...all I will need is to wire it up. I got something really strong and less cost then a new heated unit

Stock is cool

Alex said:

I wonder how hard it would be to use the stock tube, but enclose it in a fiberglass and foam fairing. Just as cheap but potentially a lot better looking. Any thoughts?

Click to expand...

Great idea, light cheap mod that will reduce drag. Thought of this idea a while ago but can take credit since I first saw it in one of Tony Bingelis books, which shows pitot tube fairings. You can make it so the tube it removable and can be made of fiberglass or sheet metal.

I am all for building per plans, cheap, light, simple. I like the stainless but only of it is damaged it would bend and bend the support structure. Other wise the stock aluminum works great.

Another real clever idea was a retractable pitot in the wing tip just off the outboard most wind rib. This would prove to be the least drag and very accurate if you extended it 12-16". The one I saw was well done and could be retracted on ground to near flush to avoid accidental damage. If combined with a pitot & static source it could be very accurate. I was told in the retracted position there was error but not terrible. I forgot if it the error was on the high side or low. I think it would read low with the pitot in the retracted position. You wound not normally fly that way but if you forgot to extend it, the airspeed indicator would be of some used. If you where in your hanger or secure place you could just leave it alone on a daily basis.

G