Harbor Freight HVLP Gun 43430

I have a question for you HF gun owners out there-

I just got one of these to try and thought I would take it apart first. My parts diagram shows several parts at the tip end that are NOT present in the gun. Parts 19, 20, 21, 22, 36 are all supposed to be right behind the fluid nozzle. I don't have any of that. Can someone take a look at theirs or tell me off hand what you find?

I wonder if the parts list and diagram are from the older gun?

Jim D

Don't know about all those part numbers, but I've cleaned mine a zillion times. Remove the cup, unscrew the air cap, unscrew/remove the fluid control knob and spring, pull out the needle, then unscrew the fluid cap. Nothing else needs to come out. Use the bottle brush and some some MEK to clean out the body through the cup and fluid cap openings. Flush with a squirt bottle, blow it out with air, wipe it down. Soak, clean, and blow the other parts, put it back together.

Other Parts

Dan,

When you remove the air cap and fluid nozzle from the front, are there any loose parts that come out the front?

Thanks,

Jim D

Parts....

jmbrwn said:

Jim- I just purchased this gun also, and took mine apart to have a look. I did not come across the parts you mentioned, but am guessing they are in the 'throat' of the gun after taking off parts 17 & 18. I didn't want to try to pry them out with a pick for fear of damage. I also took parts 1,2,32, & 33 off and still didn't see them. I haven't used my gun yet. If you use yours, please let us know if it is working or not.

Click to expand...

It's just like the other HVLP clones...

http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/43000-43999/43430.PDF

Parts 19 - 22 & 36 are in the throat of the of the gun and part 19 is accessible from the air cap end. Part 19 should have a screwdriver slot or similar to enable it's removal, and the other parts are inserted into part 19 from the rear of the gun. The cleaning instructions on page 8 sort of talk about this (in a poor translation......).

Usually, they don't get removed for cleaning, but part 20 is typically a fibre part (but is teflon in this gun) and provides an air seal on the needle valve. This part might need lubrication occasionally to prevent it being dried out by cleaning solvents (note 7 on page 8). A drop of gun oil on the needle valve shaft (part 32) should do this.

Hope this helps... gil A

It's on sale... I'll get one for myself this week...

Update - wife picking it up this afternoon....

<<When you remove the air cap and fluid nozzle from the front, are there any loose parts that come out the front?>>

No, and what Gil said. I've never removed the needle seal assembly. If the needle doesn't stick and the seal doesn't leak, it ain't broken <g>

I hope yall arent using the Purple "HVLP" gun with real solvent based paint.

I used one of those on location painting some stripes for a customer of mine. When i finished using his gun, i rinsed it with laq thinner like i do all my guns.
The "Harbor Frieght Purple Piece of Junk" melted in my hand!!! And i had 2 more colors to spray!!!

my review of that (and other simular paint guns)
spray pattern(s) are terrible.
material usage is usually much higher than it should be.
Oversrpay is Horrible (when used at correct PSI)
Aircaps strip out.
Fluid Tips and Needles are eroded by metallics and pearls MUCH faster than normal.
Cups and lids swell when cleaned with laq thinner, or used with a slow reducer.
The guns cant stand up to normal painting and cleaning conditions.
Silly "anodized" colors flake off and land in your paint job.

Do yourselves a favor. Spend atleast 150.00 bucks on a decent HVLP from a brand you have heard of before, youll be much happier with your paint job

And dont forget, i do on site graphics and stripes if yall need help!!
Cheers!!
Painter John

So far all I've shot through my 43430 is Poly Brush, Poly Spray, Polytone, PPG 1791 acid etch primer, DPLF epoxy, K-36 high build, DBC base, DCU urethane clear, Lohle urethane single stage, and all the companion solvents. Plus I clean it with MEK, which certainly has a bit more bite than lacquer thinner. It ain't melted yet. It hasn't even harmed the labels:



Compared to the Binks #7 I was using, overspray and booth fog is minimal. It doesn't atomize as well as a current pro gun; to get flowout you gotta shoot urethanes a bit too heavy for vertical surfaces. No question, the SATA 90-2 RP I tried Sunday shoots urethane clear better....but it fogged the booth worse. I'm trying a SATA HVLP next weekend, but I'll shoot the epoxy and K-36 with the 43430.

Nobody needs a $300 gun to shoot primer. These guys will do fine.

Which is not to say you can't shoot urethane. This was sprayed today with a $25 HF mini gun. It's not good enough for the door on a Lexus (at least not without some color sanding), but it will work for the inside of a canopy frame.

Oooo, Binks Model 7. That brings the memories. That is a real work horse of a paint gun. I wish I still had mine.

Mine also works great and has held up well.

Sure it is no pro gun but for my one airplane, it serves the purpose.