Dupont Variprime--Where can I get it?

I'm looking for a source for DuPont Variprime self-etching 615S and 616s. I've tried the internet auto stores, no luck. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

I was able to get mine from a local autoparts store....not one of the chain-type stores. I suggest you call around to the auto parts stores near you.

Regards

I got mine from the local auto body supply shop too!

Get your maroon scotchbrite roloc pads there too! They cosy waaay less than Avery charges!

Hi Jeff!

CJ

Hey John! Keep smashing those rivets!

Regarding the Variprime, not sure what Captain John is paying, but as I recall the last quart of the stuff I got cost over $50.00. Just another reason to use light coats.

Regards,

I got a full gallon of the stuff. Paint, converter and Nason laquer thinner came to about $140.

Yah, the stuff is premium dough!

CJ

follow up

Follow up...

Is Variprime water-based, so that clean up is easy?

Also, I heard there are two versions of it. One version is the nasty stuff, another version a little more environmentally (and user's lungs)-friendly. Every heard of the two varieties?

I assume you can mix up the two parts in small quantities at a time?

Thanks for your earlier posts--I'll check around local stores till I can find some.

Steve

It is not water based, but clean up is easy. I use a gravity feed touch up gun and it drains entirely. Shoot some thinner through it afterward and you are all cleaned up.

Yes, it can be mixed in small quantities. I transfer the components into jars and dispense only ounces at a time. This is the preferred and only way to mix the stuff, as it has a 24 hour pot life as I recall.

Hope this helps.

CJ

I get mine from a local autobody shop as well. As far as the two types, there is a quick drying version that is a little nastier, although I can't imagine the attention deficit person that needs this stuff to dry faster than it already does...it flashes in about 3-5 minutes and can be stacked in about an hour. I love it. Also, I just shoot a few ounces of thinner through the gun and then take it apart and clean it in thinner, takes about 10 minutes.

Will
#91056

http://home.comcast.net/~wcouv/

Yah, there is a fast and a slow activator. The reason for the two isn't the attention span of the applicant... it is the temperature of the environment.

In hot climes, you need the slow one where the product will likely flash off sooner. When it is cooler, you get the fast one as it is more difficult for the product to cure in the cooler temps.

CJ

Variprime Components

These are the different components of Dupont's Variprime system from their web site.​

Variprime? 615S?

Variprime? 625S? Lead and Chromate Free [also known as the "California blend"]​

Variprime? 616S? - Converter​

Variprime? 620S? - Fast Converter​

Variprime? 614S? - Slow Converter​

The technical manual claims a 72-hour pot life.

Web-site link:​

<http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/bowstreet5/webengine/dpc/common/Controller/Action!_pageDispatcher/InnerModel!dpc/modules/Login/OuterModel!dpc/common/Controller/InnerAction!visitorAction>​

Variprime Technical Manual in PDF format (i.e. the directions):

<http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/chromasystemlv/H-19374_Warranty_Sys.pdf>​

Hope this helps.

-Jim​

Keywords (to help with searching):

vari prime, variprime, vari-prime, veri prime, veriprime, veri-prime, primer, dupont, du pont, 615, 616, 615S, 616S, self-etching, self etching. ​

Nice research Jim!

The 72 hr pot life is a good thing, as I usually prime all weekend long. I prepare the parts for priming, shoot them... usually forget the nutplates and a stiffener or something and need to whip up another batch. Now I will just leave some in the gun all weekend! The Auto Body instructors at school tell me that in most shops they have one gun dedicated to shooting VariPrime. They leave product in it all the time. Just pick it up and shoot it when you need it! Of course, they rarely exceed the 72 hr window in a situation like that, as so many people will be working at a time.

CJ

surface prep

Thanks for the links to their site!

Their surface preparation calls for:
1. wipe surface with DP FirstKlean or Prep-Sol
2. Sand and featheredge with 180 grit followed by 240 grit
3. remove sanding residue with DP lacquer cleaner

I assume the above is for paint preparation.

If not painting (e.g. when using primer on ribs or inside of skins) is this preparation necessary? George & Becki Orndorff recommend not scuffing (especially alclad) since it the primer is self-etching and just cleaning parts with lacquer thinner before spraying.
For those who have used Variprime, does this sound about right?

Thanks for the great tips so far. I did find it at a CarQuest autoparts store--Napa and Schucks do not have it.

Steve

The reason for scuffing is to create an "adhesion profile". This is a random surface in which the paint will bond to.

This surface MUST be clean and dry with no oils or residue, otherwise you will suffer "detatchment" of the coating. It is true for any coating whether it be a primer or top coat.

Hope this helps!

CJ

What I did for surface prep was as follows:

1) peel off vinyl protective covering and wipe surface of the parts to be primed with Coleman lantern fuel (naphtha) to remove any adhesive from the vinyl. There are those that will say that there are oils in this fuel that leave a residue, but I have had absolutely no trouble with variprime peeling off of anything that I have primed as a result of any oily residue from its use. If it makes you feel any better, substitute lacquer thinner anywhere I am using Coleman lantern fuel. The same job is done, just a bit more expensive.

2) Scuff the surface with a Scotch Brite pad. As Capt. John said, this just gives the primer more surface area to bite into.

3) Wash the parts off with soap and water. This gets the majority of the dust from step 2 off the parts.

4) Wipe again with Coleman lantern fuel while wearing gloves to prevent getting oils from your hands on the parts.

5) Have at it with the Variprime.


All this sounds like an involved process, but it really isn't. I usually would plan a building session around priming and wait to do so until I had a pile of parts ready for primer.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Variprime

So, you spray on the Variprime and then you're done with it??? No other coats of other primer or anything else to apply???

Sorry for the redundant questions. I'm new to all this priming thing.

Thanks,
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
Priming HS

Bill:

All I have done with internal parts priming is hit them with veriprime. No other primer/sealcoat was done. Perhaps I am not getting the premium protection as you would get with an epoxy priming system, or if I were to sealcoat over the veriprime, but I am comfortable with what I am attaining with the veriprime alone. I do not live on either coast near saltwater, and my 6A will be aways hangared. I guess I fall back on the fact that most parts we work with are alclad and really do not need primer. I just primed for peace of mind and resale value.

Regards,