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Interior paint testing results

David_Nelson

David_Nelson

Well Known Member
This is not meant to be a primer/paint debate entry. I'm only passing on the results of a simple experiment that I performed to see what would be more durable: aluminum w/ GBP-988, or a roughed up surface.

For some time, I've been thinking about what color I wanted my interior paint to be and I find the beige colors quite appealing. So, as an experiment, I went down to the local home improvement store and purchased a can each of Rust-Oleum #7770 Almond Gloss, Rust-Oleum #210372 Biscuit Appliance Epoxy Gloss, and finally Rust-Oleum #7758 Almond Satin.

I proceeded to make six samples out of alclad aluminum sheet (a former elevator skin), three cleaned and prepped w/ Sherwin Williams Self Etching GBP-688 Primer, and the other three scotch brighted and cleaned. All the samples were cleaned w/ laquer thinner just prior to any primer/paint.

After about 5 weeks to dry/cure, a simple "thumb nail" test was used to see if I could lift the paint from an edge or corner as this is where chips would normally start. Would you believe that all the samples that used the GBP-688 stuff failed! However, I was unable to peel any paint away on all the samples where the surface was roughed up, cleaned, and then painted. Go figure.

Now the question is, glossy or matte? :)

Here's hoping this helps somebody down the road....
 
David:

I did a similar test with my 7A QB. I did tests on the back of the baggage panel to determin how best to paint my interior. The QB comes with a Sherwin Williams wash primer but after several years I wasn't quite sure how the prinmer would hold. My tests were as follows:

a. Clean the primed area with lacquer thinner and apply paint.
b. Remove the wash primer and reprime with Dupont Vari Prime and apply paint.
c. Scuff, reprime and paint.

I used Rustoleum 7777 Sand which is a gloss beige paint. The results showed all 3 to be equally durable in my test so I chose method a. and proceeded. I did a light cleaning with thinner, The wash primer comes off fairly quickly with the thinner so I kept it to the minimum to get the surface clean. The Rustoleum holds up well and has taken significant abuse during construction without any scratches.

If I did it over, I would choose a semi gloss because I've got a nagging thought that the gloss might reflect in the canopy. Some folks report their paint does reflect while other say their's doesn't.

My panel is also Rustoleum but in a textured, non-reflective Dessert Bisque.

Here's a health tip. Extended use of a rattle can can give you a numb finger tip. Seems the prolonged pressure wreaks havoc on the nerves. My right index finger tip was numb for close to a month and tingly for several more weeks thereafter. Buy a $2.00 spray can handle contraption from Home Depot and avoid the tinglies.

Jekyll
 
Good tip

Hi Jekyll,

I'd forget about the spray can adapter thingie - good idea! I usually end up with my finger in the paint stream. :mad: I'll pick one up next time I'm at the store.

Take care,
 
agree

I also have painted my interior with appliance epoxy paint from Home Depot, "almond" color, which matches very well with my beige Classic AeroDesign interior. I am very happy with the results, and also knowing that any touch-up down the road will simply require...a new $ 4.97 spray can!!
 
David_Nelson said:
This is not meant to be a primer/paint debate entry. I'm only passing on the results of a simple experiment that I performed to see what would be more durable: aluminum w/ GBP-988, or a roughed up surface.

For some time, I've been thinking about what color I wanted my interior paint to be and I find the beige colors quite appealing. So, as an experiment, I went down to the local home improvement store and purchased a can each of Rust-Oleum #7770 Almond Gloss, Rust-Oleum #210372 Biscuit Appliance Epoxy Gloss, and finally Rust-Oleum #7758 Almond Satin.

I proceeded to make six samples out of alclad aluminum sheet (a former elevator skin), three cleaned and prepped w/ Sherwin Williams Self Etching GBP-688 Primer, and the other three scotch brighted and cleaned. All the samples were cleaned w/ laquer thinner just prior to any primer/paint.

After about 5 weeks to dry/cure, a simple "thumb nail" test was used to see if I could lift the paint from an edge or corner as this is where chips would normally start. Would you believe that all the samples that used the GBP-688 stuff failed! However, I was unable to peel any paint away on all the samples where the surface was roughed up, cleaned, and then painted. Go figure.

Now the question is, glossy or matte? :)

Here's hoping this helps somebody down the road....
Click to expand...

Thanks for doing the tests and posting the results, David. One of these days I need to paint the interior to make the airplane look a bit more civilized rather than a combat wreck with bullet holes. :)
 
I did a similar test, similar results. The self-etching primer does not stick well unless you scotch-brite the metal.
 
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