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Tip: Hammering 3/16" spar rivets

WSBuilder

Well Known Member
Came close to destroying a spar with the hammer when it slipped off the C-frame set. I bent the spar flange a little but was easily fixed. Whew! Turns out the anvil base screws had backed out on my new Avery unit and the loose set up became unstable. Lesson learned: check those anvil bolts before each use. Also, lay a sheet of plywood or similar across the spar to prevent bashing your parts!
 
And, if you set the C-frame on a piece of plywood (to save your concrete floor) make sure you don't leave the c-frame in one spot for too long. You will pound grooves into the wood, and the c-frame will get unstable in these grooves, and bad rivets can result, or worse. Sort of like holding a bucking bar very loosely against the rivet.
 
Hammer ? Spar ? Waddhe say ??

You guys realize that 99.9% of the people reading this forum have no idea what you're talking about :).

Now, get back over to the RV4 forum. We're going to mine some Bauxite at 5:00 today :). Don't miss out....

John
 
John_RV4 said:
You guys realize that 99.9% of the people reading this forum have no idea what you're talking about :).

Now, get back over to the RV4 forum. We're going to mine some Bauxite at 5:00 today :). Don't miss out....

John

You're right, John. I'll be over as soon as I club a woman and drag her back to the cave for a mastadon dinner.
 
This thread made me laugh!

As prepunched QB -9A builder, I know I am not worthy. Van's actually had the gall to make me mark and drill a hole once.......never again
 
Bragging or Complaining?

petehowell said:
As prepunched QB -9A builder, I know I am not worthy. Van's actually had the gall to make me mark and drill a hole once.......never again

The contrast between the old and the new is pretty big. At first I was excited about the fact that new -4's have pre-punched wing skins (see? I'm glad I procrastinated 22 years after my empennage). Now I'm finding that without pre-punched matching parts it's like giving Viagra to a eunuch. I think it makes it even harder! :eek: But I'm sure I can still rise to the occasion!
 
Regarding setting spar rivets:

You guys realize that 99.9% of the people reading this forum have no idea what you're talking about :).

Ahh, yes......a blast from the past. I fondly recall those days long ago when the feeling of immense satisfaction washed over me as I gazed at the beautifully set rivets in the handmade spar of my RV-6 Classic (or maybe I was just goofy after kneeling on the shop floor and swinging the three-pound sledge too long...).

http://thervjournal.com/spar_log.html

I agree the prepunched wing skins and unpunched sub-structure adds to the layout time, but it does result in nice, straight rivet lines. :)
 
My Hero

Sam,
I had a print out of your spar log open on my work table all the while. I just don't have intrepid explorer genes in me, so thanks for being there before me!
 
I knew

I am an RV6 slow build (98) and I know what he was talking about, thats why I borrowed a big nasty squeezer.
bignastysquzr.jpg


I felt I would have more control and get better results.

www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/toms/plane_proj.asp
 
6 Classic, pounding away....

I borrowed a squeezer directly from Van's when they where in North Plains. They would let local builders borrow it. However, it was so torn up it did not work when I tried using it. So, pound away in my Cframe. I was surprised how well it worked and how well the Cframe held up.
 
Mushroomed Steel

My C-frame held up well, also. But I sure peaned the top of the set rod! It sure wouldn't fit a rivet gun throat without grinding it smooth again. I used a 4-pound hammer, mainly because the strike surface diameter was bigger. Now I can't get my right forearm in my shirts, while the left has plenty of room.
 
I used a 3x rivet gun to build my spars, but had a very short and very heavy (30lb?) C frame to keep everything aligned. I tried the 4lb hammer routine first, but found that the 3x, turned up full, did the best job.

Pete

sparrivetingjn7.jpg
 
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