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Torque Wrench and Pneumatic Cleco gun questions

rleffler

rleffler

Well Known Member
In reading the archives, it seems that there is consensus about avoiding the "click" type of wrenches.

Bob Avery recommends the imports and says stay away from CDI unless you want the certification and name recognition.

I looked at Sear's wrenches and the reviews on their own site concluded the low end ones failed for a variety of reasons.

So, I guess I'll open the can of worms here. What specific model torque wrench would you recommend purchasing?

Also, after getting a couple blisters from all the cleco's on my RV-10 tail, I'm thinking about getting the pneumatic cleco gun. Do they really make the job easier. It seems that loading the gun might be just as much work as the manual pliers. I would like to hear some opinions of those that switched to the pnuematic gun and those who decided specifically to stay with the manual pliers.

thanks,

bob
 
rleffler said:
In reading the archives, it seems that there is consensus about avoiding the "click" type of wrenches.

bob
Click to expand...

Be careful in assuming that any forum on the web will give you a "consensus".... :rolleyes:

Folks that like to write, write, folks that don't, don't....and frankly, there are a lot more of the latter than the former, so you really can't be assured of an unbiased answer...inlcuding mine!

I like the click type wrench because of the repeatability and no-kidding "I got the torque I set". I have used beam type wrenches for years, and frequently end up using them in spots where it just isn't convenient to see the scale, or you have to read it with parallax. Practice with a click-type by putting a bolt in a vise, and trying different torques setting s- you'll quickly get the feel.

Then again...either type works - it's really personal preference!

Paul
 
I agree

As long as your torque wrench is calibrated I much prefer the click type.

AS to a phuematic cleco plier...Hmm, never actually used one but it sounds like more trouble than its worth.

Personally I'd rather have a pnuematic pop rivet gun for all those steel pops you have to set on the QB flap braces...Come to think of it thats exactly what I do have....:)

Frank
 
regarding cleco guns, absolutely worth it. you won't use it all the time but when doing large panels like the wings it will definitely save your hands. just as fast
inserting them as a pair of pliers and even faster removing them. I got mine at
the yard for 25 bucks, best money i ever spent.
 
Click, click

Done a lot of torquing in my life. I ALWAYS reach for a click type first unless it's a special need such as reading breakout torque or run on torque. Using a dial or bar/pointer torque wrench can often be like playing Twister with 1 arm tied behind your back. You need to be able to see the faces of the others from above while torquing. A clicker can be used in tight, awkward or hidden places. Try torquing a nut in a hard to reach place while simultaneously holding a box end wrench, an inspection mirror and a flash light, all the while ballancing on your kidney on something sharp! It will make a loyal clicker out you most rikey tik. Much easier to reach in with a clicker and do it with 1 hand.

Like someone above said: I wouldn't put this case the solved file.

Jekyll
 
My CDI "Click" wrench works great. I also had a pneumatic cleco tool that was fantastic for large jobs like wings. I then sold it when I didnt need it anymore to another member of this forum. It sold in minutes...but for small jobs, it's not worth the hassle, in my opinion. Hope this helps.
 
The pneumatic cleco tool was great for me in the beginning because I have arthritis. As time goes by, I seem to use it less; maybe my hands are getting stronger. Still use it when there are a lot of clecoes to work, especially on skins.

It is actually better than the hand tool because the part that grabs the cleco is machined, not a sloppy casting & it NEVER has gotten a cleco twisted & jammed. It also rotates so you can approach the hole from any side. When you release the trigger the cleco drops right out; with pliers you have to turn it the right direction for the cleco to fall out. A minor consideration, but nice. Takes about 70 psi.

Unfortunately, The Yard has run thru their stock of inexpensive ones and they now cost a lot more than the $25 I paid, even though they look the same. Avery sells one just like it except for color for $85.
 
I bought a Proto brand, dial type torque wrench from Grainger. I have read many stories on this site of people not hearing or feeling the "click" and breaking bolts off. The dial is a no brainer. Watch the needle climb to the desired torque, then, stop. As for not always being able to see the dial, this is true. I've learned to put my inspection mirror in a strategic place so I can see the dial. I have yet to break a bolt. As they say(whoever "they" are?) your mileage may vary.


xl1arp7ol5.jpg
 
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Beam, dial, click

Click torque wrenches are nice. The twister comment above is true.
Will I get rid of my beam and dial wrenches? Not on your life.
There is much more infomation available to the user via the analog displays vs the digital feedback of the clickers.

Wear a mechanics glove on your wrench hand when doing cleco's. Cheaper and less of a neusance than pneumatic wrench.
 
I have the straight version of the cleco tool, got it from Avery's when they were on sale.

Some of the best money spent on this project. When doing the tail kit, I developed "trigger thumb" in my right hand from using the cleco pliers. This required surgery to repair!

The cleco gun works great on large flat areas like wing skins, tank and leading edge skins ect. You will still use the pliers for tight spots and precision areas but I use the gun anywere I can to save my hands. I also use it when cleaning clecos after sealing the tanks. This is a huge plus because after you clean a few hundred of them when doing the baffles, you will appreciate that tool!

Clecos are no harder to get into this tool than the pliers.
 
Torque Wrench Thread Revival

Thread Revival! I am at the point in my empennage that I cannot put off buying a torque wrench. Anyone have a good brand suggestion? Thanks!
 
Pneumatic Cleco Gun

I have a pistol type pnematic cleco gun. I still use the manual pliers for a few here or there, but for large panels I use the pneumatic gun. Very much easier on the hands and forearms. I had tendonitis in my elbow once probably from a computer mouse and never want to have it again.
 
I have both, click and CDI Dial. I use the dial to determine drag and the click for everything else. The cleco gun just ROCKS! :D
 
click or dial

At work we have some dial type torque wrenches that have the light or tone that comes on when the set torque is reached. But 99% of the time we use click type wrenches, of course we?re using ? or 1 inch drive most of the time, and may be less interested in the nuances than we might be if we were building airplanes?.I?ve got the click type for use at home, in the aircraft factory.
 
I've only finished the wings but the one below has worked fine so far. CDI dial type. I do have to use an extension and crow's foot occasionally but I have been able to get to all places in the empennage and wing.

DSC00658.JPG


I've been wanting a torque screwdriver and finally got an ebargain:

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Vendor Opinion

We carry only the click type. We have had both dial and import clicks in the past, but the vast majority of customers want the US made click type. We carry CDI brand. They make 90%+ of all the US made torque wrenches including Snap-On, in fact Snap-On recently bought CDI. The US made stuff is far more repeatable.

Here is a link to Snap-On site:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...7&group_ID=953&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Here is a link to the CDI on our site:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WT

We recommend 20-150 in-lb as you can do #10 screw, 3/16" bolt, and 1/4" bolt with the same wrench.

The thousands of people here that have torqued the -3 bolts will tell you how surprising it is how little torque they take before they are tight, so the tolerance at 25 in-lb is pretty important.
 
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