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Wing Root Connector Options

T

tx_jayhawk

Well Known Member
Without getting into the debate of whether or not one should use a connector for the wing wiring, I would be curious what type of connectors people have used for a wing root disconnect? At a minimum, I have:

* Pitot heat - 14 gauge (2)
* Landing Light - 16 gauge (2)
* NAV light - 18 gauge
* TBD others

It seeems that Amp CPC circular connectors may not normally be rated for that kind of current, but I do want some sort of quality connection (no white molex).

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Scott
7A Finishing
 
I haven't wired wings yet but I've always liked these for similar applications.

http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/ultra_plug.html

Check with WSDeans for current capacity. I solder, heat shrink over the connector/wires, connect and then heat shrink over both connectors. What's neat about these connectors is they have very low resistance. If you do this, be sure to immobilize the wires at the solder joints. I use heat shrink but that's just me.

Knife splices would work too. Remember that you'll probably never have to demate any of them.

All that said, I'm sure AMP makes and appropriate product for this.

Not a reccomendation...just throwing it out there.
 
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Wings22.jpg
Wings23.jpg

This is what I did. These are AMP bulkhead connectors. I bought them from Digikey via the Internet.
 
Butt Splice

Leave a service loop and butt splice either crimp or solder. In the unlikely event that your wings ever need to come off, simply cut the wires and resplice. Any mechanical connection, such as a connector or terminal, has a much higher degree of failure than a simple splice. However, done properly, any way to get the juice from point a to point b is all you care about.
 
Check out these connectors. They look like your basic low cost Amp connectors but each contact is a gold fork. On connection they do a full wipe. Specs say it creates a gas tight connection rated at 5 amps/circuit.
There are also many pin options depending on how you want to wire up the connector.

I have run everything from balanced sensors to power supplies through them without problem.

Series 556
http://www.edac.net/downloads/EDAC WATERPROOF_CATALOGUE.pdf
(bottom of page)

If you need more connectors on a bulkhead (with screw lock security) check out the 516 series. Digikey sells them as well.

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T071/P0213.pdf

While a bit heavy I like the security of wipe contacts and screw locks. :)
 
Connector Space

I've heard several folks mention that they make their wing root connections inside the fuselage as opposed to in the small space between the wing/fuse.

1) If making the connection inside the fuse, how did you get the wing-side connector inside the fuse? Is there enough room to pass it through the main aileron pushrod opening without causing inteference, or did you cut a large hole in the fuse side for the connector to pass through? You could probably depin the connector and get the wires through the grommet, but that would obviously defeat the purpose of the connector.

2) Assuming you leave some slack, is there enough space to physcially make the connection inside the gap between the fuse and wing? If so, presumably people were able to secure the cable/connector assembly to the rib via a tie wrap or some other means? Any pics would be very helpful.

Thanks.
Scott
7A Almost Done
 
In the interests of simplifying final assembly, for the most part I used AMP connectors. When I spliced the prewired wings to the fuselage, the electric (and other hookups) were greatly simplified and it was a pleasure to be able to almost immediately test the various circuits and see them operational.

​
 
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Rick,

Those are nice connectors and I hope they work for you.

On the -9, there is maybe 1" of room behind the spar to work. Not enough to make connections, IMHO. Because of this limited space, I put snap bushings in the side of my fuselage and pulled everything inside and made the connections under the floor. Should I ever have to pull the wings, I will cut the wires and re-terminate them when the wings go back on.

As for the pitot and AOA lines, I left them full length (SafeAir1 flex lines) and ran them all the way to the panel after installing the wings, no connector. Again, only because I couldn't see getting tool in the wing root.
 
One word of advise.

No matter which connector you use, make sure you connect them before you bolt the wing on. After the wing is attached, you can't get your hand in there to work the connectors. Ask me how I know this.:eek:

Kent
 
One other thought...

Rick,

Not knowing how your wires exit the end wing rib, may I suggest you replace one of those connectors with a male connector? That way there is no possibility of connecting the strobes to the position/landing/pitot heat.
 
I suggest

whatever you do you don't do it in the wingroot...Do it inside the cabin whare there is some working room.

Personally I left a service loop and a pair of wire cutters in the toolbox.

frank
 
N941WR said:
Rick,

Not knowing how your wires exit the end wing rib, may I suggest you replace one of those connectors with a male connector? That way there is no possibility of connecting the strobes to the position/landing/pitot heat.
Click to expand...
Bill,

I used various color coded wires to avoid confusion and besides, the Whelen supplied strobe cable has an unmistakable and unshielded grounding wire dangling off to the side of the AMP connector. As mentioned in the first post, the connections have since been made and the circuits work as advertised. BTW, on the -8 series there is sufficient gap between the wing and the fuselage at that location and I had little difficulty making some connections after the wing was bolted into place.

​
 
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Rick6a said:
Bill,

I used various color coded wires to avoid confusion and besides, the strobe circuit has an unshielded grounding wire. As mentioned in the first post, the connections have since been made and the circuits work as advertised. BTW, on the -8 series there is sufficient gap between the wing and the fuselage at that location and I had little difficulty making some connections after the wing was bolted into place.
Click to expand...
Rick,

Good to hear it all worked out. I'll have to take a close look at the -8 next time I'm close to one.
 
Can't find the parts

az_gila said:
I like these Mini-Con-X ones from DigiKey.
They are like plastic versions of Mil-Spec ones and are weatherproof. The Mini ones are good for 18 amps.

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T071/0320-0321.pdf

The Micro ones (6 pin) are good for the trim servo wires...

gil in Tucson
Click to expand...

Gil,
I tried the web link you provided with no joy. Looking at the link I deduced that the items mentioned were on either page 320 or 321. I looked in the current on-line catalog but found nothing. I also tried a search on Mini-Con-X with no results. I know that you always give good advice. Could you supply a part number(s)? I suspect that the catalog you used is out of date.
Charlie Kuss
 
Here is my take. I have no plans to remove the wings after I put them on, so, straight wire from the panel to the wing tips, no connections, no worries about bad connections later. I think it would be prudant tho to leave a small loop or something in case the wing ever has to come off, than you use the dikes and move on, than reconnect with solder and shrink wrap.
 
Try here...

chaskuss said:
Gil,
I tried the web link you provided with no joy. Looking at the link I deduced that the items mentioned were on either page 320 or 321. I looked in the current on-line catalog but found nothing. I also tried a search on Mini-Con-X with no results. I know that you always give good advice. Could you supply a part number(s)? I suspect that the catalog you used is out of date.
Charlie Kuss
Click to expand...

Don't know what happened to Digi-Key, but Mouser lists them on their current web pages -

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/635/1268.pdf

Manufacturers data here -

http://www.switchcraft.com/products/pdf_files/minic.pdf
 
I have always used Military grade Amphenol connectors.

I have used all sorts of connectors over the years, and I have never found anything better than what the military and the aircraft industry use. I use Molex style connectors like shown above sometimes, but over the years, these are tin plated connectors, usually, and can fail over time. The natural nylon gets brittle too. When I built my RV-6A, I used bulkhead connectors (wall mount receptacles) mounted in the fuselage sides and in the firewall. Then I used straight mating connectors in the engine compartment and right angled units in the wing. These are the green (OD) metal units with solder pins that are gold plated. DigiKey sells them. (Amphenol 97 series) This allowed me to build the wings separately, and test the stuff in the wing. I was also able to test the signals coming out of the fuselage, since I didn't have a place to assemble the wings to the plane until it went to the airport. I safety wired these connectors on after they were screwed in and tested. After about 6 years, everything is still working perfectly. I used a Molex style in the tail for the strobe power supply and I have replaced two pins in that connector. The Amphenol style units are not cheap, but what I see guys doing is spending a ton of money on their planes then get really cheap when it comes to electrical connections. Bad move. I have been an Electrical Engineer for over 30 years, and I have used about everything out there at one time or another. Never found anything better. Good enough for the Air Force, then it is good enough for me. Roger.
 
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