Engine saver

Being eternally cheap I was thinking about making my own engine saver, You've see 'em, a coke bottle full of silica gel and a vynil tube the you stuff up yer breather and it pumps very dry air thru your motor.

It seems to me the only unknown about the device is the pump itself and I would bet dollars to donuts its a fish tank air pump.

Doing a websearch on...fish tank air pumps and dessicant material reveals a pump for about $7 and less than $10 a pouind for colour indicating silica gel

Probably about $30 all in to make your own engine saver.

I could even borrow a humidity meter to confirm its actually working.

So has anyone done this?...Or bought one of the $288 units and taken it apart to find out whats inside?

Thanks

Frank

If you are talking about a stored (uninstalled) engine, you can buy silica filled "spark plugs" that screw right into the cylinder. If you're talking an installed engine sitting in the hangar, try putting a small light bulb (Christmas tree type) in each exhaust stack. This will keep most moisture away.

Not quite

I was referring to one of these...

http://www.flyingsafer.com/2039.htm

I was probably going to go with the lightbulb under the sump method for preheat, But the engine saver device looks dirt cheap if you make your own and the running cost almost nothing.

Frank

There may be some merit to this system, but their advertising is overblown and overstated. As a chemist and owner of a high-pressure breathing air services company, I can tell you that the silica gel they clearly show to be used in the dessicant chamber is only going to be capable of dropping the dew point in the air stream to about -40 degrees F. To get to the quoted -100 F dewpoint requires molecular sieve dessicant - but they clearly show silica dessicant in the advertisement.

Either way, realistically, it's plenty dry and will serve the purpose. What troubles me about it is that they felt the need to "stretch" the truth just a bit about how their product operates in order to sell it. I also question the statement about the system consuming only 3 watts of power - I'd love to see the fan motor that consumes only 3 watts (along with the electronics they say controls it) that would produce a useful air stream for this intended purpose. I call BS.

I think the flowrate is very low

Remember once you have replaced the air in the engine with -40deg air, that air is now picking up moisture from wherever it can...namely moisture in the engine.

The problem of course that unless you keep the engine warm you won't pick up any moisture...If its cold and frosty I doubt if it would do anything.

I certainly would not spend close to $300 on the thing.

frank

Realistically, you could duplicate this complete with dessicant and electronic controls for about $50 to $60. Notice his dessicant chambers? Just 1-liter soda bottles with nipples top and bottom. He's using a fish-tank aerator pump ($10, Walmart), some Tygon tubing and a little foam.

Mel said:

If you are talking about a stored (uninstalled) engine, you can buy silica filled "spark plugs" that screw right into the cylinder. If you're talking an installed engine sitting in the hangar, try putting a small light bulb (Christmas tree type) in each exhaust stack. This will keep most moisture away.

Click to expand...

Second Mel's suggestion with a twist my dad came up with and used. Build a box around the engine, plug the openings, insulate box with a blanket or similar if in a cold climate and place a 75-100 watt bulb inside. Keep the engine warm and well above dewpoint. Use dryer plugs. Installed a Radio Shack remote thermometer to monitor. Simple.

Should be on the preheat thread

Low Pass said:

Second Mel's suggestion with a twist my dad came up with and used. Build a box around the engine, plug the openings, insulate box with a blanket or similar if in a cold climate and place a 75-100 watt bulb inside. Keep the engine warm and well above dewpoint. Use dryer plugs. Installed a Radio Shack remote thermometer to monitor. Simple.

Click to expand...

But funny you should mention this but I was digging around the internet and came up with this....Much cheaper stick on sump heaters.

http://www.wolverineheater.com/products.shtml

With a FF sump one would need a heater to stick on the underside of the 'ear' of the sump as it might overheat simply stuck on the bottom where the oil is not in contact with the metal.

Think I might go this route.

Frank