AntiGravity

Well Known Member
Guys, I just need to double-check for peace of mind. I just fitted the tiedown assembly and aileron bellcrank brackets to the left wing main spar. I torqued the AN3-6A bolts going into the K1000-3 nutplates and the AN3-7A/AN365-1032 nuts to 25 inch-lbs. This I got from the aircraft acceptable techniques and the aircraft standard practice books. Seems very low though. Heck, it almost takes that amount of torque to screw the things together at all, let along 'final' torque tightening against the mating faces. I remember thinking the same when I did the screws holding the elevator/rudder counterweights in place. Someone confirm for me that this is just fine...
 
My Manual from Vans agrees on the AN365

The manual from Van's says 20 to 25 in-lbs for the AN365-1032 but the platenut is not specifically covered in my RV-6/6A Construction Manual. The running torque is supposed to be included but I have to admit if it doesn't feel right I would not follow blindly.

Bob Axsom
 
You have to add the friction drag....this is especially true if you're torquing the bolt, but it's also true if you're torquing the nut. This is contrary to what Vans stated in the last newsletter. AC 43.13-1B (acceptable methods), however, is very clear that unless the manufacturer specifically calls out a torque, you should use their table with the friction drag added. I have Vans table in front of me, and it's nearly identical to AC 43's table (there's one value that's off...either an update, or a typo) so there doesn't appear to be any compensation for friction drag included. The specific case Vans was referring to in the newsletter was torque values from a manufacturer who called out the final torque so no further measurement was required.

In the case of the tiny 10-32 lock nuts, the friction drag is so low that it's probably within the error of my torque wrench, so I don't even bother.

So I'm guessing that the friction drag is usually much less than the range of acceptable torque values. Vans is smart and knows that if it says 160-190 in-lbs, we're gonna torque it to 190.01 in-lbs. I'm guessing that in most cases, torquing to the high end compensates for the friction drag and keeps us from twisting the heads off of all our bolts :)

That's my understanding of it, anyhow. Maybe Mel, or someone, can set the record straight once and for all :D
 
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John is correct in that the friction drag should be added to the torque value. However, I shoot for the middle of the range rather than the top except when using a castle nut with cotter pin. Then I shoot for the lower end of the range so I can tighten to line up the hole.
Mel...DAR
 
Determin the drag factor and add to the specified torque to arrive at the final torque (the setting on the wrench).

I won't be so naive to think folks will do this every time so maybe a workable solution is to test some self locking nuts to see what the drag range is and use that as a default value. Anchor nuts do not have consistent drag values between nuts and the value can change sharply (reduce) with each remove and reinstall of the bolt in a specific nut plate. Check those used in critical applications each time.

Jekyll
 
i've read this thread several times, and i'm not understanding what is being said here. i'm at the exact same stage, and was planning on torque-ing my tie downs tonight. how is the drag factor determined? where did 160-190 in-lbs come from (or did that not have anything to do w/ the 10-32 nuts)? i thought that if it said 20-25 in-lbs, that's where you set your torque wrench, and move on. :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
Drag friction?

I'm with Chad on this one: confused. Is there a published value for friction drag? Where did the 160-190 in-lbs come from? Do we measure the friction drag each time?
 
160-190 was just a number I plucked out of the air as an example....definately don't torque the 10-32 bolts to that :eek:

Since I don't have a wrench with an indicator, the way I've always done it is this:

1) In the case of 160-190 (it is the valid range for a bolt...I just don't remember what size), I take the difference, 30 in this case, and set my wrench for 25 or 30 in-lbs

2) I run the nut down until it's just barely touching the washer and then try to turn it with the torque wrench. If it turns, that means it's less than 25 in-lbs.

3) knowing it's less than the 160-190 spread, I just torque it to somewhere about 180 or 185 and call it a day.

I'm sure this isn't the best way of doing it, and maybe aircraft construction is different, but this is just how I've always done it. I'll also mention that I've never run into a nut where the friction drag is greater than the range. Not sure how I'd handle that so for me it's more of a sanity check than anything else. Maybe someone else will weigh in here and give a more proper method...mine seems a bit hokey.
 
Torquing method

Thats more or less what I did. Chose 25 in-lbs on the torque wrench. Ran the nut until it juuuust grips the work. Then torqued down. I'm wondering though if this method takes account of this friction/drag whatever? Or not? Someone else care to elaborate... an AP perhaps?
 
Are we talking here about the friction created by the nut's locking mechanism (nylon) or between the nut and washer? The latter increases rapidly as the nut is torqued and is exactly what the torque wrench is measuring. Since when do we need to take this into account? If a fastener is supposed to get 20lbs, give it 20 lbs and be done. On the other hand, if the nylock feature creates additional drag, this should probably be assessed and added in. I figure for the little nylocks an extra lb. or 2 should suffice.
 
Advantage of a Dial or Beam Torque Wrench

Accommodating for the drag force is a lot easier if you use a Beam or Dial type wrench rather than a 'click' release type. Back the nut or bolt off from snug by a turn or two, and measure the drag as you bring it back to snug. Add that to desired torque and you are done.

In certain applications, the drag force can make a large difference. On one of my prop bolts (turning the bolt through a wood prop), the drag force is 9 ft-lbs and the final desired torque (from the propellor manufacturer) is 17 ft-lbs. Failure to tighten that bolt to 26 ft-lbs would result in a severe under-torque.

Hawkeye Hughes
Skyote, RV-3
 
this whole drag/friction thing still doesn't make sense to me. why is it not stated anywhere where torque figures are given for a specific size bolt? i don't recall a single mention of it. i've read the aircraft standards handbook, and i don't recall it in there either...'course that doesn't mean it's not there. still :confused: sorry, but i'd like to understand this better...
 
Most torque specs assume a given configuration. I.e. they know that aircraft hardware is cadmium plated, so they factor in an estimated friction based on typical cadmium plated hardware. Or they'll say "lubricated", "dry", etc. I've never dealt with wooden props, but I imaging the friction varies all over the place (based on humidity and other variables) so you get better results if you measure the friction each time you torque.

A quick google search turned up this:
http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/screws/fasteners_intro.cfm

Note the section where they have different coefficients for Zinc plated, non-plated, cadmium plated, lubricated, etc. The torque tables we actually use are based on those formulae (or similar).
 
Torque is computed by the shank size of the hardware and is not determined by the bolt head or nut size, type, or style. The range is used so that you have the ability to line up cotter pin holes in castellated nuts. You torque to the minimum value and check the allignment. You are allowed to torque UP TO the upper limit in an attempt to align the holes. If the holes don't align prior to reaching the upper limit, you then remove the nut, adjust the washer stack-up to alter the thickness and then retorque using the same process.

Drag, or run-on torque, is determined easiest with a dial indicator or simple pointer style torque wrench. You simply run the nut (or bolts) down until the self-locking feature engages and use the torque wrench to check the value of the drag. Make sure you are not running it down to the piece being attached, the nut or bolt head should still be shy of the structure.

Run-on torque is easily derived with a click type wrench but it takes a cut-and-fit approach. Set the wrench for, let's say 5 pounds and see if it moves, if not, jump to 10 pounds and recheck. Through multiple trails you can bracket in on the exact torque. Notice this can be more time consuming than using a dial or pointer Q-wrench.

I keep a small inch pound pointer on hand that lets me check any low run-on torques.

Now, the run-on torque (or parasitic hardware drag) must be added to desired torque to achieve the final torque setting on the wrench. Think of this as an airspeed vs. groundspeed issue. 50 mph airspeed into a 50 mph headwind gets you nowhere. The same is true with torquing: a 35 inch pound torque on a nut with a 30 pound run-on only yields an effective torque of 5 inch pounds. This would be the same as putting it together finger tight.

Read the circular on torquing. There is alot of information such as keeping your threads clean and dry (the tables are based on that condition) and how to mathematically adjust the torque value to set on the wrench to compensate for any adapter that effectively lenghtens or shortens the wrench leverage (dog bones, crow feet and the like). Normal socket extensions don't change the value nor do extensions that are directly 90 degrees off the wrench. center line when viewed from above.

This is part of the education that is the reason for the existence of the homebuilt experimental category- to learn about the crafts and techniques involved with manufacturing and maintaining aircraft.

Jekyll
 
cjensen said:
this whole drag/friction thing still doesn't make sense to me. why is it not stated anywhere where torque figures are given for a specific size bolt? i don't recall a single mention of it. i've read the aircraft standards handbook, and i don't recall it in there either...'course that doesn't mean it's not there. still :confused: sorry, but i'd like to understand this better...
The drag/friction comes into play when you are torquing a nut/bolt that is running through a friction locking mate such as the nylon insert nuts or the deformed interference of a plate nut, for example or through a prop hub as listed previously.

These have measurable torque before any clamping force takes place and that should be added to the "generic" torque for that size nut/bolt. You can measure that torque by sneaking up on the running torque using a click type torque wrench or just reading the dial on a bending beam type. For the small fasteners, I have a torque "screwdriver" handle that just releases and clicks once the set torque is reached. I back it completely off to minimum torque and try to spin the bolt/nut. Increasing the setting gradually, I will eventually reach a point where the bolt/nut will start to turn. That is the drag/friction torque.
I would add that number to the torque value recommended for that particular size of fastener. Also, one reason that the running friction is not listed for the friction locking fasteners is that it changes (typically lessens) with each use. It's a good reason to replace fasteners used in critical applications often if the components are regularly dissasembled/reassembled

The drag/friction that rapidly builds once clamping begins is automatically included in the torque specs. That being said, there exists tremendous variability in clamping force for any given torque value based on thread condition and whether they are dry or lubed.

-mike


-mike
 
jekyll and mike, thanks! that makes much more sense now. i went down to talk with one of our mechanics, and he explained it to me as well, and the lightbulb went off...i get it! the dial wrench is what you need to figure the drag BEFORE setting the nut. it makes sense now. sorry for my confusion. :eek:

i went back to the tool room to find this guy-

main.php


that'll do the trick!
 
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As someone mentioned above, just set the wrench to the middle of the appropriate range and don't worry about adding any extra for the locknut. They don't add THAT much resistance. Using the middle of the range also allows for your wrench to be (reasonably) out of calibration without any significant consequences. The combination of these two errors MAY be a factor for an AN3 bolt, but anything larger has such a large range of appropriate torque that setting middle torque is a good compromise with almost no downside. Important caveat: I'm not an A&P, so take this for what it's worth.
 
Jekyll - nice explanation. I was gonna say almost the same thing until I saw your post... must be the background we share :D .

alpinelakespilot2000 - not a good practice. The nylock does make a difference... may not be much, but it's there. Considering the low TQ value an AN3-sized nut gets to start with, anything less is undertorqued, and therefore won't develop the proper clamping force.

Is it a big deal for hardware on Adel clamps? Probably not.
Is it a big deal on hardware that holds parts that are critical to continued flight onto the airframe? You bet your life. Literally.
 
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alpinelakespilot2000 said:
As someone mentioned above, just set the wrench to the middle of the appropriate range and don't worry about adding any extra for the locknut. They don't add THAT much resistance. Using the middle of the range also allows for your wrench to be (reasonably) out of calibration without any significant consequences. The combination of these two errors MAY be a factor for an AN3 bolt, but anything larger has such a large range of appropriate torque that setting middle torque is a good compromise with almost no downside. Important caveat: I'm not an A&P, so take this for what it's worth.
jarhead said:
alpinelakespilot2000 - not a good practice. The nylock does make a difference... may not be much, but it's there. Considering the low TQ value an AN3-sized nut gets to start with, anything less is undertorqued, and therefore won't develop the proper clamping force.
Fair enough, IF the added torque factor of a nyloc nut for an AN3 bolt is more than 2.5#. Since the recommended finished torque is 20-25#, if one were to go mid-range it would still be sufficiently torqued without factoring in the nyloc friction adjustment if the adjustment factor is 2.5# or less. Since the range on AN4 is 50-70# and AN5 is 100-140#, the additional nyloc nut torque factor in those cases would have to be 10# or 20# respectively for this "middle-of-the-range" rule of thumb to breakdown.

All that said, is the additional torque value required greater than 2.5#, 10#, or 20# on nylocks for AN3, AN4, and AN5 respectively? I don't have my AC4313-1B handy right now to check and can honestly say I've not checked, but will happily stand corrected if somebody can show that the correction factor is greater than I thought.
 
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Torque Q's

Sorry to sidestep somewhat but Torque settings is just where I am at on the Emp. and am about to buy a wrench !

With ref to the range of Torque settings on the RV's I know that a Inch Pound wrench is required for the smaller bolts e.g. AN3 20-25 In/pounds BUT what is the upper limit required of the WRENCH for the Emp/Wings (QB)/Fuse (QB) bolt settings ? :confused:
(I realise that I may need a Foot Pound wrench when it comes to Firewall fwd - or maybe before ?)

Also, being a complete novice when it comes to installing nuts/bolts/screws that need to be Torqued can someone confirm the correct way round to install the washers that fit under the bolt heads and nuts - I assumed that the flat side goes against the work surface and the round side goes against the fastener but have seen on a website the complete opposite !!!!!

Thanks, David
 
David,
I have never seen a rule stating which side of the washer goes next to the "work" surface. Some people put the flat side against the surface because is has more surface area. Personally, I generally put the "rounded" side against the surface because there is less likely a chance of a "burr" to mar the surface thereby creating a stress rizer. Sometimes the flat side of the washers have a pretty sharp edge.
Just my personal opinion. I don't think you will be in trouble either way. If it were a "real" problem, there would be a rule.
Mel...DAR
 
alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Fair enough, IF the added torque factor of a nyloc nut for an AN3 bolt is more than 2.5#. Since the recommended finished torque is 20-25#, if one were to go mid-range it would still be sufficiently torqued without factoring in the nyloc friction adjustment if the adjustment factor is 2.5# or less.

FWIW, i used a calibrated dial wrench last night to torque my AN3 bolts/10-32 nuts. it showed 7 in-lbs of friction drag to move it down the bolt. i added 7 to 23 (mid range) and torque'd to 30 in-lbs. if i just used the mid range number of 23, substract the 7, and you're below the minimum 20 with a final torque value of 16 in-lbs.

the pic of the wrench is earlier in this thread.
 
That's good news!

cjensen said:
FWIW, i used a calibrated dial wrench last night to torque my AN3 bolts/10-32 nuts. it showed 7 in-lbs of friction drag to move it down the bolt. i added 7 to 23 (mid range) and torque'd to 30 in-lbs.


Sweeeet!
I've been torquing my 10/32's to 30 inch pounds. 25 just didn't feel like enough to me.

Thanks for posting your results with the dial type wrench.
 
H-m-m-m a lot of legends here

If you think people that build airplanes on a production line run the nuts down and check the running torque and add that to the value specified for the specific fastener hardware involved, I believe you are wrong! There would absolutely be no standard process for installing the thousands of fasteners and the uneven stress conditions and impact on joint reliability should be obvious. On the aircraft and spacecraft torque applications I have been associated with the torque application is traceable to the person who applied the torque and on more critical applications like one of a kind spacecraft the torque application is witnessed and bought off by an inspector. It is the responsibility of the mechanical engineer establishing the torque value to determine the torque range for a specific fastener combination that will provide the appropriate fastener integrity in the joint. If you are tightening a fastener on a compessible material to be joined, like wood, then the tighteness will change and compression of the material under pressure occurs after the torque has been applied even is you initially over-torqued the fasteners so special processes are required for these applications. If an implemented torque process does not seem to produce the right results it should be questioned (and I do as well as anybody else) but the ideas being generated here are a throwback to "crank'er down hell for tight and if she don't break it's a good installation" view which caused torque procedures to be developed.

Bob Axsom
 
alpinelakespilot2000 said:
All that said, is the additional torque value required greater than 2.5#, 10#, or 20# on nylocks for AN3, AN4, and AN5 respectively? I don't have my AC4313-1B handy right now to check and can honestly say I've not checked, but will happily stand corrected if somebody can show that the correction factor is greater than I thought.

Steve:

Might I recommend you do a quick check before throwing down a public gauntlet? I did just that last week when torqueing AN365-1032 nuts on a flight control application. The first nut had 7 pounds of run-on and the second had 10 pounds.

10 pounds is very significant. Had I just set for the mid range, it would have been under touqued by 44.4 %. If I had just ignored the run-on and torqued to the minimum value, my flight control mount would have been under torqued by 50%.

Jekyll
 
Jekyll said:
Steve:

Might I recommend you do a quick check before throwing down a public gauntlet? I did just that last week when torqueing AN365-1032 nuts on a flight control application. The first nut had 7 pounds of run-on and the second had 10 pounds.

10 pounds is very significant. Had I just set for the mid range, it would have been under touqued by 44.4 %. If I had just ignored the run-on and torqued to the minimum value, my flight control mount would have been under torqued by 50%.

Jekyll

You seem to be missing my point. I am absolutely and genuinely interested in knowing what the actual number is that we must add for a nyloc nut. I know my rule of thumb is not based on any official source of information and I stated that up front in my posts. That's why I'm trying to have somebody correct me. Can someone point me to a chart that indicates what values we must add for a given fastener? I hear a lot of people saying add a certain amount for the friction factor, but no one has yet (to my knowledge) pointed ot an official source that says how much to add and/or how to calculate that number. If you read up further in this thread, and then do a search of the other threads that deal with torque and you will see a LOT of confusion on this topic--hence my request for the amount from an official source. I just read through chapter 7 of 4313-1B last night and couldn't find anything definitive, except that chart 7-1 (in that same chapter) indicates that a AN3 bolt-365 nut combination requires 20-25 in.lb. of torque.

Any help?
 
i haven't found anything official, but direct from the mouths of our AP/IA's in the shop. read the friction drag off the dial, and add it to the range specified for a given fastener. i think the official source is the properly calibrated torque wrench. it doesn't lie unless it's not calibrated. :)
 
Adding to the confusion

Let's say that the 7# drag correction is adopted for our -3 hardware based on the dial wrench. Can I assume that this will be the correct amount for all such nuts? Will the drag change if the nuts are warm (huh,huh, warm nuts). Seriously, does the nylon ease up in warm weather? I say you put a couple nylocks in the fridge, freezer, and out in the sun and retest. I'll bet things change.
 
I think the point is that you need to add the friction drag of the SPECIFIC fastener you are working on to the torque value in the tables. Since the friction drag can very significantly between fasteners, as pointed out already, you need to determine it each time. This is obviously where a pointer type wrench is advantageous. Measure the torque required to turn the nut just before the nut contacts the washer, and add this to the table to get the final torque. No big deal.
 
Steve,

I think the point others are making is that you don't use 7lbs or any other fixed conversion factor to adjust for fastener friction, even with fasteners of the same type. Rather, you use the torque wrench to measure the friction as you install each fastener.

I'm guessing, and I'm sure error will be corrected, but I suspect a good example of where this is important is the difference between turning a nut and the associated bolt. It is the same nut, same bolt, so the actual torque should be the same. After all, what you are trying to get is a certain clamping force. However, you have different friction levels if you turn the bolt vs. turning the nut. The nut has friction from two sources... the interface with the bolt threads and the bearing surface sliding against the work/washer. The bolt has three sources... the threads, the bearing surface of the head, and the shank turning in the hole. If you followed the procedure several have mentioned above (moving the fastener and adding the "loose" torque to the desired final torque) you would end up with the same clamping force regardless of which you turned.

In production environments engineers have evaluated the friction range of the fasteners, the tolerances of the tools, etcetera and have selected the fasteners, tools, procedures, and environment to reliably provide the proper holding force. They've done as much of the measuring of individual frictions as they could ahead of time.
 
Chad, Steve, John, Paul--

Thanks for trying to clarify. I would tend to agree with the reasoning in each of your posts. I'm just curious why I've never run across a description of this process from any published source, though I know it must be somewhere. Fortunately, the relatively few bolts I have already torqued are in accessible locations, so if I need to add additional torque it shouldn't be a big deal.

Thanks again.
 
When you feel that softening sensation

When you feel that softening sensation it will be the shank yielding under tension and loosing strength - but they may not break.

Bob Axsom
 
glad we could try and help. i know what you mean, though, about wanting to actually READ the source of this idea.

btw, 7#'s just happened to be the friction value on the eight nuts (weren't warm nuts though...:D)that i torqued last night. i wouldn't suspect it to be the same each time...

let us know if you ever come across anything that literally and officially explains all this. i'll do the same.
 
Bob Axsom said:
When you feel that softening sensation it will be the shank yielding under tension and loosing strength - but they may not break.

Bob Axsom

Bob--You seem to be from the aerospace industry, which is great for us here. At the same time, from your last couple posts I can't tell exactly what you are saying regarding best practices on torquing, though you do seem (as much as one can tell in email) skeptical about the checking the amount with the wrench before and then adding that number to the final torque. Do you add a certain amount to the pre-existing tables or not? If so, how much and how do you calculate the amount? I'm still definitely interested in hearing alternative opinions and explanations. :)
 
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A little off topic

Just an interesting little aside...torque wrenches, esp click type, are notoriously innacurate. This isn't nescessarily a bad thing...designers know this and it's taken into account. What's more interesting, though, is that a skilled mechanic can consistently outperform a torque wrench by feel. They're not feeling the torque, nescessarily, but after a while you can actually feel the bolt stretch slightly and the nut has a distincively different feel to it when that happens. I can't tell the difference, but folks that have been doing it for 20 years can. Amazing...
 
Friction drag on AN365

Last night I set my in-lb torque wrench to its lowest value (not actually zero, I think, more like 3-4 in-lb). I found that even with the self-locking AN365-1032 nut nowehere near the work, the wrench still clicked. So presuambly the friction torque is less than my wrench will actually measure! In this case, I simply torqued to 25 in-lb on the wrench and called it 'done' (stats say 20-25). From all the good stuff I've read above I think this is ok. Larger, or non- self-locking nuts might differ, so I'll check each one when I do it. Thanks.

I had no idea this thread would grow; I thought it was a quick answer; thanks heaps guys :)
 
The "official" reference

AC43.13-1B, Chapter 7, go to section 7-40 (note for some reason the FAA's link only works with Internet Explorer):
c. Run the nut down to near contact with the washer or bearing surface and check the friction drag torque required to turn the nut. Whenever possible, apply the torque to the nut and not the bolt. This will reduce rotation of the bolt in the hole and reduce wear.

d. Add the friction drag torque to the
desired torque. This is referred to as ?final
torque,? which should register on the indicator
or setting for a snap-over type torque wrench.
 
keen9a said:
AC43.13-1B, Chapter 7, go to section 7-40 (note for some reason the FAA's link only works with Internet Explorer):

Thanks Ben. That's what I was looking for, I think. For some reason when I read that last night, and then compared it to what was on Table 7-1, I was confused about whether the chart already figured in the friction factor: the chart specifically noted the combination of AN3 bolt and 365 nut required "20-25#," not "20-25# plus the friction factor," but I guess the latter was just assumed. I wonder why Van's, in the last RVator, just said to use the chart values and not add a friction factor?

In any case, thanks again.
 
maximum allowable tightening torque

Thanks for the reference to the AC. There are four colums, two for recommended torque and two for maximum allowable thightening torque. For the 10-32 bolt and MS20365 (or AN365) and AN310 nut, the recommended torque is 20-25. The maximum allowable torque is 40. It would seem to mean that there is significant margin. For the A&Ps, is it that straight forward? Regards, John.
 
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Follow your requirements

If the document tells you that the process for their data is such and such - follow it. However, in direct answer to the question I do not knowingly exceed the specified torque in any fastener installation unless it is obvious that proper tightening did not occur (the washer still is free to move for example). Many mechanics routinely exceed the torque requirements and as a result certified airplanes routinely have fastener installation problems. Yes I worked in the aerospace industry and torquing fasteners is such a problem that you have to receive formal training and be certified to torque fasteners on NASA spacecraft - yes I was certified. On the F-15 I was involved in the fastener problem involved in attaching the vertical stabilizers to the tail booms (fuselage). That is not my specialty but I have worked the job.

Bob Axsom
 
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alpinelakespilot2000 said:
You seem to be missing my point. I am absolutely and genuinely interested in knowing what the actual number is that we must add for a nyloc nut. I know my rule of thumb is not based on any official source of information and I stated that up front in my posts. That's why I'm trying to have somebody correct me. Can someone point me to a chart that indicates what values we must add for a given fastener? I hear a lot of people saying add a certain amount for the friction factor, but no one has yet (to my knowledge) pointed ot an official source that says how much to add and/or how to calculate that number. If you read up further in this thread, and then do a search of the other threads that deal with torque and you will see a LOT of confusion on this topic--hence my request for the amount from an official source. I just read through chapter 7 of 4313-1B last night and couldn't find anything definitive, except that chart 7-1 (in that same chapter) indicates that a AN3 bolt-365 nut combination requires 20-25 in.lb. of torque.

Any help?

Steve:

I dont' think I missed your point. I gave you a direct example where 2, seemingly identical nuts, from the same manufacturer and batch revealed drag values that were 43% different from each other. The variance was greater the than 2.5 pound value you mentioned.

Here's the reference that supports each point I made (Q is an accepted abbreviation for the word torque):

AC43.13-1B Paragraph 7-40.
Subparagraph a. Calibrate q-wrench every 12 months or immediately if abused.

Subparagraph b. Clean and dry threads.

Subparagraph c. Check run-on Q with each torgue event. Also Q from nut if possible. (If you torque from head out of necessity, you will notice the run-on torque or drag can be significantly higher. That is an observation from 3 decades of experience in aircraft maintenance.)

Subparagraph d. Add the friction drag to the desired Q to arrive at the wrench setting.

Subparagraph e. Apply a smooth, even pull. Again, I have first hand experience as an aircraft manufacturing and maintenance quality inspector that a sharp, uneven pull can cause a wrench to click at a reduced load. I've seen them click when the actual, on-the-nut, torque was 50% lower than what the release click or indicator said.

Subparagraph f. How to torque castelated nuts using the minimum and maximum values.

Subparagraph g. Capscrews or bolt heads. Highlights the need to MEASURE AND ADD drag or run-on values to achieve the REAL, no-s*** torque being applied to the threads.

Subparagraph h. How to adjust wrench settings if using adapters.

In all this, there is nothing mentioned about rules-of-thumb, guesses or establishing drag factors by hardware categories. As I said, run-on torque is determined each time you grasp a torque wrench. It's just the way torquing is done. Not following these rules is tightening", not "torquing".

In my work in aircraft and engine shops, I've not seen many nuts or bolts tightened without a torque wrench. Situations that effect safety-of-flight or that may injure personnel are SPECIFICALLY FLAGGED on assembly sheets to require a quality inspector's presence for personnal verification and sign-off to attest to that the torque was done correctly. Did it this way as a working mechanic, a quality inspector and as a manager of maintenace shops.

Those that say aircraft manufacturers and repair shops don't torque, and that attest to having first hand knowledge to the fact, are, in my opinion, owning up to working at substandard shops. Manufacturing and maintenance is no different from other human activities in that, if left alone, we gravitate to entropic processes. Safety requires energy.

Official source pointed out.

Jekyll
 
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David:

Always nice to have a q-wrench for every range you'll be working however, they are expensive and require annual calibration (can be $50 each).

An alternate approach:

A. Inch pounds divided by 12 equals foot pounds.
B. Foot pounds times 12 equals inch pounds.
C. A 100 inch pound q-wrench can be instantly turned into a 200 inch pound q-wrench through the use of an extension. Review AC 43.13-1B, figure 7-2. The formulas for adjusting torque settings to accomodate for a different effective wrench length resulting from using an adapter (reactive) can be used to determin the added length needed to allow use of a 100 inch wrench on a 200 inch application (proactive).
D. A 100 pound lower limit wrench can be turned into a 10 pound wrench by using the correct length extension turned back towards the handle using the same formulas as in C. above.

My first torque wrench at age 15 was a 12 inch breaker bar and a spring scale. A 10 pound pull on a 12 inch fulcrum equals 120 inch pounds of torque. Not elaborate but it was only for the jug bolts on a beat up motorcycle.

Jekyll
 
AntiGravity said:
Last night I set my in-lb torque wrench to its lowest value (not actually zero, I think, more like 3-4 in-lb). I found that even with the self-locking AN365-1032 nut nowehere near the work, the wrench still clicked. So presuambly the friction torque is less than my wrench will actually measure! In this case, I simply torqued to 25 in-lb on the wrench and called it 'done' (stats say 20-25). From all the good stuff I've read above I think this is ok. Larger, or non- self-locking nuts might differ, so I'll check each one when I do it. Thanks.

I had no idea this thread would grow; I thought it was a quick answer; thanks heaps guys :)

When I initially started doing up AN 365 10-32 nuts I first did a very accurate calibrated test to ascertain what torque would be needed to overcome the friction induced by the nylon insert. I tested half a dozen nuts and found that it requires at least 5 inch pounds. So I torque my nuts to 28-30 inch pounds.

In respect of your testing as a per your quote may I make a couple of comments. Firstly if as you say you set your torque wrench to 4 inch pounds and it "clicked" then maybe it could be presumed that the torque required to turn the nut is greater than 4 inch pounds not less.

Secondly I would suggest that most torque wrenches are at their most inaccurate at the upper and lower extremity of their range. At close to zero torque setting your wrench may be considerably off.
 
Wow... what a great thread!!! I go away for a couple of days and then come home and check in on this site and see five pages of responses and comments about this very important topic. Drag value..makes perfect sense! Has anyone posed this question to anybody at Vans? I know Van designed these airplanes but is not an Aeronautical Engineer. Obviously, the expertise on the subject is right here on this forum!

I am curious though about what Vans' "official" position is on this. Thankfully, I am just now at the torqueing of my tiedown brackets on my wings, and only a few places on the tail section that I might need to retorque.

BTW, Antigravity,....how is it you guys don't fall off the Earth being down there at the bottom of the world?

Jeff
-8 wings
 
Oops!!!!

...I should know better than to shoot off my mouth without checking the facts. Van does in fact have a degree in Engineering (according to their website), although I'm not sure in what field.

Sorry Van! That makes me wonder even more though what Vans Aircraft "official" position is on this subject and thread.

Jeff
-8 wings
 
Check again (again!)

Bob Barrow said:
In respect of your testing as a per your quote may I make a couple of comments. Firstly if as you say you set your torque wrench to 4 inch pounds and it "clicked" then maybe it could be presumed that the torque required to turn the nut is greater than 4 inch pounds not less.
You are indeed correct. Brain fart on my part. I shall now go and check again. Again!! Thanks Bob.:)
 
jdmunzell said:
BTW, Antigravity,....how is it you guys don't fall off the Earth being down there at the bottom of the world?

'Cos the earth sucks, Jeff, everyone knows that:that's also why everything wot does go up, eventually comes back down :D
 
I believe Vans degree is in Mechanical Engineering

This is hear say but when I was taking my builder's training at the North Plains, OR facility in October of 1996 I saw a photograph of Van with a group of USAF personnel posed in front of an F-101B. The F-101B was the first airplane I worked on at McDonnell Aircraft in St. Louis after I got out of the Air Force (radio mechanic). I thought we had some common ground. It was not so. I was told that he had received a degree in Mechanical Engineering and went into the Air Force but was not allowed to become a pilot in the USAF because of imperfect vision. The F-101B they were standing in front of was one of those static historical airplane displays you see around bases. In my time the plane to take pictures by at Lackland AFB was an F-82 Twin Mustang.

Bob Axsom
 
".....In my time the plane to take pictures by at Lackland AFB was an F-82 Twin Mustang.

Bob Axsom"

You are dating yourself Bob, however one must understand that some things will never lose their appeal. I would give my left nyloc to pose in front of a Twin Mustang!!

Jeff
-8 wings
 
National and international standards set the specifications for bolts (AN, MS ext.) Manufacturers produce hardware to meet those standards and thus the torque is not something they deal with except possibly when designing specialized hardware.

If you look at Van's torque table and information in the builder's manual, he has done nothing more than to replicate the data and information from AC43.13-1B. These are standard torque guidelines to be followed regardless of the torque applied. The torque values in the table are DEFAULT values to be used when the designer (manufacturer of the assembly, not the hardware) does not call out a specific and unique torque value. Specific torques that differ from the standards must be specifically identified in assembly instructions and, in general, are less then the standard values. Why did Van's reproduce the circular information? Don't know other that maybe they wanted to be nice and give you something. Maybe they should have directed folks to the circular instead. That would avoid errors on the part of folks that are unaware of the circular and don't have extensive experience in aircraft design, manufacturing or maintenance.

Yes, some applications can't tolerate the required torque. Case in point, brake pedal attachment bolts can't be torqued to the standard table value or they become immobile. Vans has recognized this in the design by calling for castellated nuts which can be safetied without full torque. PLEASE DON'T MISCONSTRUE THIS TO IMPLY ALL CASTELLATED NUTS CAN BE USED LOOSELY AND HELD BY COTTER PINS!

In the end, if Van's calls for a specific torque in the assembly manual or on the drawing for a specific instance, use that torque but only there. All other torques on aircraft are done per the tables in the circular (the table reproduced by Van's in the manual).

Jekyll