I use a HF jack on a welded steel frame with homemade cup and cone into the tiedown hole. But it is important to angle the jack so the jack piston is perpendicular to the bottom of the wing or it will try to walk off. The angle changes as the wing goes up.
 
MacCool said:
Harbor Freight no longer sells the 3-ton long-ram jacks that I used to build these wing jack as was detailed in the Kitplanes article. I believe that they are sold by Northern Tool (at twice the price)

https://www.northerntool.com/produc...-hydraulic-jack-single-piston-flat-base-46210

That particular jack fits under the wing of my airplane just fine...no need to do any manual lifting.


..
Click to expand...

These may not be extatically like yours, but they would work....

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...ong-ram-hydraulic-flat-bottom-jack-58906.html
 
Jacks

I mentioned earlier I use a HF Motorcycle Lift and two jack stands.
These are the Jack Stands with mods.
Mophorn V Head Pipe Stand...
The photo shows them installed. I changed to one piece of 1x6 hardwood all the way across to support the center section evenly.
For the tail, I have a 200lb tractor weight on wheels with a chain and mini 500lb winch.
I can tweak the airplane level in three axis and climb inside without feeling any movement. I think a similar set up would jack from the wing tie downs and be very stable. They have quite a wide footprint.
It's probably bad but I've seen several posts of others jacking the center section.
I do plan to add the Flyboys Jack Points and modify a HF Hydraulic for routine work.
20230509_153105.jpg
 
gasman said:
These may not be extatically like yours, but they would work....

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...ong-ram-hydraulic-flat-bottom-jack-58906.html
Click to expand...

The jacks that I bought from Harbor Freight are 3-ton and lift from 24min - 44max inches. They work perfectly at that range and there's no need to manually lift a wing to make them fit under. I don't have to lift the plane very much...only enough to get the tires off the ground. The new HF jacks you referenced are 23min - 43-max and would also work just as well, I'm sure. And they're much more reasonably priced than the red ones at Northern tool.

Making those jacks is a relatively rudimentary welding exercise, just requires some basic metal-working tools (saws and grinders). They're my go-to airplane jacks for wheels/axles/brakes/tires because they're so much easier to use than the Flyboy wheel jacks or the Avery/Spruce axle jack. You don't have to fit the jack on the wheel you're working. Those wing jacks are heavy and awkward...an in-hangar tool only IMHO. The Flyboy jacks would work great for a flat away from home, and that's why I have them too (although I've never had to use them).
 
Lift whole plane

This is what I do. Works well for a 9A, not sure on the larger planes.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5424.jpg
    IMG_5424.jpg
    371.7 KB · Views: 242
  • IMG_5421.jpg
    IMG_5421.jpg
    283 KB · Views: 278
This wooden box is looking rock solid. But is it really? The board in front is not sitting on the jack but transfers all the load it is bearing into the lower part of the bottom board via just a few nails. I would not trust this too much. The bottom board might fail and break just below the nails.
The jack is a good thing to have, why not pile some foamed polystyrene (4 or 5 inches building insulation) pads on top? They are strong enough to carry the load and soft enough to distribute loads evenly.
 
It isn’t easy to see but it is made of 3/4” plywood. One end has a solid piece keeping it from racking and collapse. The box is fully supported on the bottom with the lift. I have it marked on the bottom of the plane where it goes to get correct lift and balance. I have used it for 4 years during construction and after I started flying and have confidence in it. I would not get in the plane while it is on the jack but that is not what I use it for. There is a piece of 3/4” pink foam on top of the box just to protect the paint.
 
Last edited:
That's a pro-level weight saving tip - don't add paint/weight to the underside nobody sees from closer than 8,000 feet.

:p

I was going to comment the same thing about the joinery in that box - looks like an invitation to structural failure unless there's more bracing inside than meets the eye. Rabbet that bad boy to make sure.
 
9GT said:
Maybe it’s an illusion but I don’t see any paint on the bottom of the fuselage except for some overspray?
Click to expand...

Good eye. It is fully primed and one light coat on most of the bottom. I moved to Michigan before I was finished with my plane and flew it out here after it was done and haven’t gotten around to finishing the paint on the bottom.

As for the box, it is plenty sturdy.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5453.jpg
    IMG_5453.jpg
    388 KB · Views: 117
9GT said:
Great, but how do you then get the wheel off?
Click to expand...
lift the tire off the ground, remove the axle nut slide the wheel out on the axel then put a wooden block under the axel Near the brake and lower and remove the dowel. The real trick is setting the bearing load as you have to set the tire on the ground and remove the dowel before installing the nut. It works fine but is not intuitive.
 
Last edited:
DanH said:
There are threads here with various support frames for the long Harbor Freight jacks.


If you're feeling flush, these Meyer jacks are really nice. Or just borrow an idea for your HF frame...note the spring loaded caster wheel shafts. The jacks roll freely until the ram forces the feet down to the floor, as seen here.

View attachment 64962
Click to expand...

Casters on those jacks would be a nice addition. My dogpatch-style HF jacks are very heavy, and awkward to drag around the hangar.
 
My solution for jacking my RV10
It was kept in the plane tool kit for field repairs.
I tested it by jacking up one side and moving the wingtips VERY aggressively to simulate changing a tire outside in a tornado! I was unable to knock the plane off the jack as hard as I tried. Even if I was able to knock it off the jack, it would not damage anything.
Feel free to copy this tool. You don't really need to carry the small bottle jack as they are available everywhere.
 

Attachments

  • RV jack pad.jpg
    RV jack pad.jpg
    445 KB · Views: 101
Chukill said:
My solution for jacking my RV10
It was kept in the plane tool kit for field repairs.
I tested it by jacking up one side and moving the wingtips VERY aggressively to simulate changing a tire outside in a tornado! I was unable to knock the plane off the jack as hard as I tried. Even if I was able to knock it off the jack, it would not damage anything.
Feel free to copy this tool. You don't really need to carry the small bottle jack as they are available everywhere.
Click to expand...
Very nice. I carry a similar tool, less refined, just an angle with some u bolts. Have no idea where I got it, but Inthink from Vans. “Jacking kit”. ??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.