Sorry, I slept at Holiday Inn Express Last Night
I'm reserved about the subject.....I have not experimented with is diffusion tubes......hard plenum is another item that I am too dubious about to try so far. I have already done a lot of experimenting and testing so please respond with real first hand data and experience only. Bob Axsom
I love the threads that start with:
I ONLY want smart people who know what they are talking about with certified data to reply.
I'm not smart but do stay at hotels a lot.
Bob, sorry I only have second hand DATA from Dave Anders. The data shows SPEED increase by going from the stock cowl to a new cowl/sealed rings/sealed plenum. His RV4 goes around the 260 mph mark. The "diffuser" is only part of a system. Rings, sealed diffuser (fancy word for duct) & plenum make up a total package.
Dave Anders RV-4 gained at least 6 mph by conservative estimate (closer to 8 mph) by going from stock to a sealed round inlet cowl w/ sealed diffuser & plenum. Dave's speed increased from 235 MPH to 248 MPH when he made several mods, including the cowl, inlet rings & plenum. He estimates 6 mph gain was from drag reduction, the remaining 7 mph gain was from increases in HP & prop efficiency (Custom Hartzell - thinner & new twist - 0.78 to 0.805). Gaining 6 mph @ 248 mph range is like gaining 12 mph in the 200 mph range. Dave's other AERO mods was a "firewall fairing" and new gear leg fairings. Even if the cowl represented half the drag reduction (being very conservative), that matches the 6-8 mph gain I expect and is typical. Bob you can't deny the gain, can you? What difference did Dave's new gear leg fairings & firewall fairing contributed? I don't know, it's the problem of multi mods made at the same time. I talked to Dave; he's very pro cowl/ring/duct/plenum mod.
You're right, a RV, a 'tractor airplane', short or long cowl (just 1-9/16" longer), there's not much room to develop
a perfect "diffuser", which would be real long, like 4 or 5 feet long to get perfect/ideal/optimal diffuser wall divergence (angle). Just because you can't make it perfect, does not mean significant gains are not possible. Also curved surfaces help, along w/ avoiding sharp corners. The devils in the details. Vans stock seal between cowl and baffle is kind of iffy at best. A round duct at LEAST starts with a bit of "good" flow (at the ring), which is better than nothing. Just sealing the duct from all leaks alone is golden. It just turns out round is easier to seal and has no corner. Oval would work, to make it more stock looking. Some folks just hate the look of round inlets for aesthetics only.
Van's cowl is NOT bad, just approx 5-8 mph worth of drag, verses a typical "tight" system. Bob, this has been proven over & over.
What kind of cowl do you see on the RV winners at races you go to?
I don't get why you're sceptical but I noticed. You resist considering this cowl/plenum mod but play with tiny little internal baffles and consider fancy pneumatic wheel pant seals? You make your own wing tips but don't want to glass up new cowl inlets and plenum?
I've encouraged you to go w/ a Holy Cowl-Sam James-LoPresti-NASA-Mississippi State style cowl for what, 2 years? It's OK, I'm use to being ignored
![Big grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
. I've been involved in RV's since 1985. I know you'll get measurable speed gains w/ the cowl ring/ diffuser/ plenum & gain very little w/ more internal cowl baffles & wheel pant seals. I can't change your mind, but your're throwing away known gains for small and unsure gains. I understand the resistance of tearing out an existing cowl/baffle set-up. It's a lot of work. If PhD Aero Professors, LoPresti & Dave Anders think its good.......may be they can persuade you?
******
From Dave Anders Notes:
Propeller - Inlet - Cowl relationship
1) propeller thrust distribution for inlet location.
2) boundary layer thickness at back edge of spinner and shank
of the propeller.
3) differential pressure across inlet.
4) reverse flow on standard inlets.
5) prop extension to decrease flat plate area.
Inlet (stagnation inlet)
1) shape - round = smallest surface area/volume
easiest to provide best seal to plenum.
2) size - calculated from mass flow required for BTU from
engine chart.
Mass flow = area X velocity X plenum efficiency
Oversized inlets >velocity resulting in >pressure thus >cowl drag around the inlets.
3) round lip edge to decrease inlet stall and reduce inlet drag
Plenum design
1) uses Bernoulli’s Law: volume = >velocity = >pressure
2) Greater *p across the cylinders carries off more BTU.
3) diffuser can diverge 5 deg/side ± (air flow remains attached due to >Velocity and >pressure)
4) A = area of inlet (calculated by mass flow requirement)
A = area at the rear of the effect diffuser
A = area over the cylinder and head, A area = A area
5) slowing the free stream velocity 10 - 40% >Cooling drag losses.
6) there should be no sharp bends or edges to minimize flow separation.
(My note: there's less leakage, no doubt)
Outlet - starts under the cylinders
1) area as small as possible to re-accelerate the air to free
stream condition to >drag.
2) Convergence zone leads to exit fuselage/firewall airfoil
rounded gentle curved sides should be ~ 35 deg.
3) shape - NACA studies
- straight sided rectangular shallow angle converging ramp
- ramp as parallel to free stream flow as possible at end
- width to depth ratio of ramp
a) 7 to 1 for cooling systems
b) 1 to 1 for exhausts (augmenter)
4) inlet to outlet ratio: what’s recommended, what works & why.
a) stock Van’s: RV4 ratio ~ 39sq” X 60sq” = 150%
RV6 ratio ~ 44sq” X 56sq” = 127%
(Dave's notes go on; he describes what he feels is a better 76% ratio, eg smaller outlet than inlet.
Obviously low speed climb condition is critical & req's more area than high speed level cond.)
******
Without debate, the hard DATA:
No leaks +
Smaller inlets +
Better shaped inlets +
Better location inlets
= less cooling drag
More esoteric but true:
Better flowing round inlets (nozzles) with airfoil profile
(not laminar but not a swirling reverse flow mess) +
Better area transitions (which could be better still **)
= less cooling drag
** Now my opinion, no data sorry, I'm convinced two separate L/R plenums are better than one big dog house plenum (Sam James). Area transition is larger than needed. Data? RV buddies have great luck with two separate plenums. You just don't need air over the middle of the case. Drag reduction is unknown, it may be small but cools nicely, so at least there's no loss & it weighs less. Another area I'd improve, leakage around the spinner. Min spinner/cowl gap is a common approach, but a seal behind the gap could reduce leakage into the lower cowl, which reduces efficiency. If air flow is out of the spinner gap it causes external plume-interference drag. Down side? Sealing is hard, and we're talking nitpick small gains, unlike the known large gain of a cowl/ring/diffuser/plenum system. Gaining 6 or 15 mph is like finding 10 or 15 HP with out burning more gas!
Bob, when you race, what kind of cowl do the winners have?
![Roll eyes :rolleyes: :rolleyes:](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
I'm not sure what convincing you need but the DATA is out there. It has been shown over & over. All the best. I can see a Bob Axsom special home rolled cowl/plenum in your future? If you don't do it fine; it just gives me an advantage over you at the races.
PS Evel Knievel Passed, I remember those jumps as a kid> I had the Evel Knievel Lunch Box. Remember the lunch boxes with hot/cold thermos w/ glass liners that always broke. Wish I had it today, probably worth a few bucks. My Mom threw away all my Hot Wheels!