rv12iS-builder

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Electrical newbie question: Is there a multimeter that is especially well suited for the RV-12iS and Rotax 912iS engine? The only thing I know is that Van's required tool list for the RV-12iS says to get a multimeter with continuity check capability. If you built an RV-12iS, which multimeter did you use?

Thanks!
 
No special “Rotax” multimeter is needed.
Most RV-12iS builders use a Fluke 115 or Fluke 117 because they’re reliable and have a fast, clear continuity beep exactly what Van’s is getting at.
Budget option: Klein MM600/MM700 works fine too.
If you want one that just works and lasts, go Fluke 117.
 
I'll offer the other perspective. In general I prefer and advocate for high quality 'luxury' tools. In that respect the Fluke is a worthwhile investment.

That said, for the task, it would be hard to find a meter that was not sufficient. You don't need to spend hundreds on a meter to accomplish what is necessary on your build. You can walk into any big box store, probably even a lot of gas stations, and buy a meter that will work. Continuity is the most basic function a meter performs. They all do it.
 
You don't need an expensive multimeter for 98% of what you'll use it for. The inexpensive Klein multimeter will work just fine for testing continuity, checking for voltage, eyeballing ac ripple, and getting an idea of how much current a circuit is drawing. Think of it like its scrambling eggs, not making a soufflé.

Its that 2% that you'll need a real 4-line miliohmmeter and eventually an antenna analyzer. That's when you want to make sure you've got better quality avionics test equipment. But those can often be borrowed.
 
Its that 2% that you'll need a real 4-line miliohmmeter and eventually an antenna analyzer. That's when you want to make sure you've got better quality avionics test equipment. But those can often be borrowed.

FWIW, I am regularly flying the RV-12is that I built and I have absolutely no idea what this refers to.

Sounds interesting and good learning opportunity, but probably not relevant to what is posed as a very specific question about building the RV-12is.
 
FWIW, I am regularly flying the RV-12is that I built and I have absolutely no idea what this refers to.

Sounds interesting and good learning opportunity, but probably not relevant to what is posed as a very specific question about building the RV-12is.

There are a lot of builders out there that have never an antenna analyzer or a milliohmmeter. And that's fine as long as everything works. Its when you have weird electrical gripes, unexplained starter problems or are constantly getting dinged for weak and unreadable coms that those tools have to come out after the fact. Checking your grounds, and checking your coax/antenna VSWR as you build is a little insurance if you have access to the tools.
 
There are a lot of builders out there that have never an antenna analyzer or a milliohmmeter. And that's fine as long as everything works. Its when you have weird electrical gripes, unexplained starter problems or are constantly getting dinged for weak and unreadable coms that those tools have to come out after the fact. Checking your grounds, and checking your coax/antenna VSWR as you build is a little insurance if you have access to the tools.
Yes it is nice to have these tools but if you don't know what they are or understand what to do with them, its a waste of money.
 
For simple electrical work, I'll argue for getting an analog meter over a digital. Unless you are troubleshooting down to half volt or smaller increments, a digital is not needed. Same thing with doing continuity checks. Unless you need low ohm readings, with the analog, if the meter moves, the circuit has continuity.

An older Simpson 260 Series 6 or prior can be had generally for 50 bucks or less, might need to get some leads, depending on the seller's deal. They are easy to read, dead simple to use and robust enough to be almost bulletproof in the field and will last for generations.

I've got a Simpson, a couple of Flukes, including a bench model and several throwaway very cheap digitals. I will almost always grab the Simpson first for anything but bench work.
 
I’m not an EE (or an advanced function, user), but have gotten by for years with highly rated budget models. I have some top line tools. (dotco angle drill), but if I bought all top line (expensive) tools, I’d have a hanger full of wonderful tools but no airplane because the budget was blown (not really, but the airplane would certainly be a lot more budget).

I’ve had good luck with Astro models (YMMV) and use this one. (On sale currently)
 
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Klein CL390 looks like a lot of functionality for $100.

Any of you electrical guys see anything on this that’s a weak point?
Looking to replace an old Amprobe.
I rarely need a/c amp measurement anymore but sure is nice when you need it.
 
How about a 70's vintage Radio Shack analog with the parallax mirror on the gauge. Can still trim it out to zero it. Doesn't take much for continuity checks but if measuring millivolts or ohms get a good meter, it will last a life time if taken care of, like removing battery when put in storage....
 
How about a 70's vintage Radio Shack analog with the parallax mirror on the gauge. Can still trim it out to zero it. Doesn't take much for continuity checks but if measuring millivolts or ohms get a good meter, it will last a life time if taken care of, like removing battery when put in storage....
Old Radio Shack meter is my goto also.
I got a Fluke but if pull that out, I have to dig out the instructions too!
Stewart Willoughby, 6
 
Nothing wrong with Harbor Freight cheap multi meters have had one beating around the hangar for years and it just works. It was one of those that they were giving away.
My experience with the cheap Harbor Freight multimeter is significantly different. The connection for the leads was intermittent since new. Also the display has started to not show the decimal point in the correct position (unless I press and hold down on the selection dial while taking a measurement). If you can't trust your continuity reading due to flaky leads, and aren't able to distinguish between 1.7, 17, or 170 volts, it's not a very useful tool.

Like many things from Horror Fright Tools you can never be sure quite what you're going to get. One item might be perfectly usable, while the one sitting next to it on the shelf will barely last past the return window. My recommendation is to spend a little more and avoid the cheapest options. You don't need a top of the line ultra precision meter. But it is one of those tools that if you can't trust it's reading 100% every time, it's not only very frustrating, it can be dangerous.
 
No comment from me on the multimeter, I tend to think there are a lot of good off brands for a casual user. I will say however in the real world of aircraft work, one of these is very hand for continuity testing during building or maintenance.

 
If you think the ‘educational’ aspect of building is going to lead to a fascination with serious andvanced electronics, go fancy. Otherwise, all you will be using your multimeter for is checking continuity, and maybe battery voltage. My $10 Jaycar model was more than adequate for an RV12 build. Jaycar is like an Australian version of Radio Shack, only better😉
Cheers DaveH
 
Multi Meter that does continuity or resistance (ohms). also typically measure volts DC and AC, current (Amps). Fun of building or maintaining your RV-12iS is learning.

They come in Analog (needle swinging on a scale) and Digital or DMM (digital multi meter). Most people get digital now, although analog has special uses and applications that makes it better. For you digital is best.

Fluke is top of the line and their base line basic DMM is $170... and goes up to $500 to over $1000. Top quality yes, certified, able to handle very high voltages safely. You don't need a FLUKE, but it will last you. The basic Fluke is great, but you can get same performance and comparable quality, a "last a lifetime tool" for under $60 with more features. The $40 price point is a sweet spot. You can go to YouTube and see DMM shoot outs (put some links below). A $15 DMM might work, but I recommend you spend more...

Just for grins start on Amazon and search digital multimeter. Not saying buy from Amazon, just a good way to look at them, review ratings (if you can trust them), prices, features. You will see many BRANDS... there are some brands I can recommend (there are so many good brands) Klein Tools, UNI-T, ANEng, Again many brands that are good, likely made in same factory. I see other brands pop up as "good" like Amprobe, Extech...

So many sub $50 units that are as good. You can spend $60-$80 and get DMM that does amazing things, well beyond what you need. Step up a little more you can get a handheld Oscilloscope. You don't need that. All you need to do is measure Resistance (continuity), Volts, Current, with a meter that is reliable and accurate. That is it.

DMM's can be bought a dime a dozen. A $8 Harbor Fright will do and work for you, but recommend you $25 to $35. Harbor freight has better DMM in this price range. You can get more or better DMM for same price. Keep in mind many DMM's use similar processor chips. However how those "chips" are designed into the meter is key.

You want one with accuracy, precision (how many digits it displays past the decimal, example measure 12 volts you get 12.1 or 12.1439 volts), CAT (safety rating). CAT 1 is all you need but get one with CAT II or III. A good quality DMM will be CAT III. Also some DMM's are more resistance to being abused, protecting their self from overload or mis-connecting.

You do want AUTO ranging. Although not bad, some multi meters need you to select what range you are measuring. Others will automatically self adjust to the required range needed. In the case of continuity or resistance (Ohm), if you are measuring MICRO Ohms or 1000's of Ohms the meters will need to be manually set to read low or high resistance if not auto ranging. You also want AUTO OFF... I like "Auto ranging" and "Auto Off". They are battery powered so if you leave it on you will drain battery. However the battery life is excellent on these DMM's. I also like Peak or Max Min recording, if trying to catch a transient. But processor speed is important. If the sample speed is course it could miss a true peak or min... ask me how I know. This feature is handy bit not needed.

I have about 8 "multi meters"... analog and digital. One plugs into 110 Volt AC wall outlet, uses Vacuum tubes and has a large analog meter. It is used for tuning radio circuits. I have a small DMM that fit in pocket. I have my GOOD ONE one for bench, one for garage working knock around, one in kitchen, one in car, etc. Get one with rubber shock cover, you will drop your meter at some point. BTW I bought my first really Good Multi Meter about 28 yrs ago from Radio Shack (the had good stuff). I Suspect it was a Fluke made meter. It lasted over 25 years. It started to have some issues, did not work in all modes, it was used, abused. But it was a quality Meter. It did not high precision but for basic work you don't need to measure 4 decimals to the right. What I did notice with newer meters is how fast the react verses old DMM's were accurate but took time to read the Volts or Resistance. The above mentioned MAX/MIN capture may not be accurate if the process or does not catch it. This is where recording high speed oscilloscopes come in. Again everyone needs an inexpensive DMM. Even some cheap ones are good, and excellent to have several... placed strategically. Being able to measure Volts and Resistance (continuity) has saved my bacon many times on the road, around the house, in the shop.

DMM's are always changing, getting better and cheaper, new popular brands appear. Here are some more recent videos.

This is old EEV Blog video (he tests Multi meters often), 16 yrs old with over a million views. If you want to go down rabbit hole of what makes a good DMM, a superior DMM and junk DMM and have an hour to kill.... . These are older models and may or may not be available anymore... DMM's have improved and got cheaper, but the criteria of what is important has not changed.

I have ANENG AN870 Digital Multimeter AC/DC Voltage Current 19999 Count True Rms Professional NCV Transistor Auto Range Electrician Test. I paid about $34 a few years ago, They are now $37 to $45 on ali express. Be careful I checked this one model, priced all over. One listed at $134 (rip off). Also check what accessories they come with, case/cover, probes... etc. Lime Green cover might be cheaper than Red... The economics of cheap China electronics escapes me. You may want to buy from AnEng Store directly to avoid some bogus counterfeit. Look at seller rating, status, reviews. I have had good luck on Ali. Amazon is easy return and can be cheaper sometimes.
 
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There are a lot of great choices as you can see by the reccomendations. I would stay away from the really cheap ones, I have had two that didn't fail just by not working, but the measurements were off and not so far off that it would be obvious, so it took me a little while to figure it out. I have had good luck with Southwire meters, inexpensive with great quality, but there are many great choices.