... does a P-mag offer a way to fixate the wires against vibration? ...
Yes. They tell you to make sure you use adel clamps on the P Mag.
... does a P-mag offer a way to fixate the wires against vibration? ...
Two solutions: 1) slide some heat shrink on the finished connection like you have in the photo; 2) put the heat shrink on before finishing the connection and make the connection in a straight line....what is the approved solution for aviation "heat shrink" and the like, once you've crimped/soldered/butted your wires together? ...
A little off the original topic here, but very useful and applicable information. While we're on the subject... I'm not a builder. One day I will be,... I'm wondering how people get those beautiful finishing touches like in Jim's last photo. See attached picture to get an idea of what I'm working with.
If you want to learn a lot about wiring best practices, spend some time on this site: http://www.aeroelectric.com - there are a lot of hints and tips there.
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The standard butt splice is an AMP PIDG. You'll invest in the correct ratcheting crimp tool, which guarantees the correct degree of crimp. A PIDG does not require shrink tubing. Here is one popular source: https://www.steinair.com/product-category/terminals-tape/
Shrink tubing comes in many varieties. The good stuff is 3-to-1 or 4-to-1 shrink, lined with heat melt adhesive, as it significantly improves fatigue performance and seals it against the elements. There is also clear, no adhesive, which makes for nice labels, and lots of specialty types:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Shrink-Tube-&-Tape/
If the shrink covered connection is preferred, use a bare, brazed barrel terminal:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Non!Insulated-Butt-Connectors/p_801870.h_801871
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If you absolutely have to solder wires, I recommend you use one of these Solder Sleeves, in the correct size. Used correctly not only do they make a good electrical connection, they provide mechanical support.
You can also splice them together with one of these Wire Overlap Connector.
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Ok I got it, some people just want to make it appear difficult -
1. Why not just solder the wire - with care & the correct technique the just very end of the wires can be soldered without solder wicking much at all.
2. Each P-Mag has a p-clip fitted & my method is to cable tie the wire loom (usually 3-4 wires) to it. That makes it easier to completely remove the mag for annual (100hr) inspections- much easier than trying to remove the cap screw in situation.
3. IMO securing the wires to the p clip close as possible to the connector will give all the support needed & therefore mitigate the risk of wire breakage. It’s not rocket science
It appears in an earlier post that an OP wire may have been loose because the wire was not in place properly to start with - the slotted screws need to be undone first before inserting the wires ( I’ve made that mistake, once) , do the screws up & then do the standard ‘pull test’. 650+ hrs & many P-Mag installs later without issues since.
If you absolutely have to solder wires, I recommend you use one of these Solder Sleeves, in the correct size. Used correctly not only do they make a good electrical connection, they provide mechanical support.
Those are awful splices. You can slide some shrink tubing over them, but note how pulling the wire just splits the tube and stresses the wire across a 90 degree bend.
Want to be a builder? Time to start your tool investment. The standard butt splice is an AMP PIDG. You'll invest in the correct ratcheting crimp tool, which guarantees the correct degree of crimp. A PIDG does not require shrink tubing. Here is one popular source: https://www.steinair.com/product-category/terminals-tape/
Shrink tubing comes in many varieties. The good stuff is 3-to-1 or 4-to-1 shrink, lined with heat melt adhesive, as it significantly improves fatigue performance and seals it against the elements. There is also clear, no adhesive, which makes for nice labels, and lots of specialty types:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Shrink-Tube-&-Tape/
If the shrink covered connection is preferred, use a bare, brazed barrel terminal:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Non!Insulated-Butt-Connectors/p_801870.h_801871
.
To be more specific, crimp terminals should meet MS25036 specifications. Both Amp (TE) PIDG and Molex AVIKRIMP brands meet this specification.
Righto, badly worded. I'm trying to point out that both PIDG and AVIKRIMP brands are acceptable for various terminals and that they meet milspecs.Insulated ring terminals should meet MS25036. There are similar milspecs for other connection styles and for uninsulated terminals.
Hate to disagree but Solder sleeves are made for terminating the shield on shielded wire not joining wires.
This video shows how to join wires together using "solder sleeves", the original design idea.
FWIW I also prefer a butt splice but solder sleeves can and do work.Just the fact that it would take me 10x longer and 3 hands to do what an amp butt splice can do in seconds with 100% reliability is a good enough reason not to use it.
The 3 hands part is my main complaint - you think you have it stable, put the heat gun on, and it all moves....
Just the fact that it would take me 10x longer and 3 hands to do what an amp butt splice can do in seconds with 100% reliability is a good enough reason not to use it.