Roger:
Some comments on your presentation:
I had my 9A painted with the JetGlo system professionally. Proving that the pros screw up, we had bubbling in the paint. My conclusion (after much investigation by S-W) is that the painter did not let the airplane dry out after etch/alodine, and that water was trapped in the seams.
The shop I used normally paints older aircraft and helicopters, and the seams on these tend to be sealed up by old paint, so water wicking in is not a problem. You commented on this in your presentation, and I agree-- dry out everything completely for a few days.
You also mention that JetGlo cannot be polished, and abrasive cleaner/waxes should not be used. Again, I agree with this... I had to so some touch up/sanding/polishing on my own and it's extremely difficult to polish this paint out. The paint is incredibly hard and durable, but the flipside is that it's hard to do spot touch up, compared to a base/clear system.
Finally, for stripes and accents, it's acceptible to use the S-W AcriGlo paints over the JetGlo -- cheaper and faster. This is also what S-W recommends.
Good presentation. After reading it, if builders decide that they don't want to do it themselves, they should choose a paint shop that has painted new aircraft and used JetGlo previously.
Finally, a local builder here had an excellent tip: He didn't want to paint the A/C until it had flown for a while, but he didn't want to disasseble it for painting later. Instead, he painted the removable parts such as control surfaces and cowlings. He also painted the exposed edges of the VS, HS and wings where the control surfaces mount. That way, when he paints the wings/fuse, he can leave all the bits in place. Saves time and breaks the project up into smaller chunks.