My RV has the nice grip with about 15 wires (I think it's called Infinity). Living with a stick that cannot be removed is a pain. I'd like to know if anyone has an easy method to add a connector and, if so, what brand? In my case, it needs to have 7 wires, flaps (10A breaker), PPT, A/P disconnect. Thanks
Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Connector for stick?
- Thread starter dvalle
- Start date
I used TE/AMP CPC Series 2, D20 pins/sockets.
See catalog: https://www.te.com/en/products/conn...ircular-plastic-connectors.html?tab=pgp-story
See catalog: https://www.te.com/en/products/conn...ircular-plastic-connectors.html?tab=pgp-story
D-Dubya
Well Known Member
I'm assuming you're talking about the co-pilot stick. I also have the Infinity grip, and I drilled a cable pass-through hole on the front of the stick just above where the stick boot comes up to. I used a multi-conductor coil cord (like an old timey phone cord on steroids) and attached it with a Cannon plug to the wing spar cover panel (the thin cover that hides where the fuel lines are on the RV-7). The Cannon plug can only line up one way, even if you're doing it one-handed. A quarter turn on the locking ring and it's there. I've been pleased with this arrangement. Mine has trim and PTT only, but that's seven wires as well (if I remember correctly).
Thanks to both of you. Yes, mine is in a bundle so I planned on cutting the cover open and using only the 7 wires. I was thinking of a slot in the stick/mount to route the wires outside of the stick and add the connector. At a glance I did not see it but guessing I can get some specs. Do you know if the connector will handle the 10A required for the flap motor?
Thanks again
Dan
Thanks again
Dan
As to your last question, the SWITCH on the Infinity grip will not handle the amps required for the flap motor, so you’ll need some sort of relay or relay deck for that.
Carl Froehlich
Well Known Member
I believe it will. I used that toggle switch alone plus a reversing relay on my first build. I used the nice Flap Positioning System from Van’s on the other three.
But, I run the flaps via a 5 amp breaker. Where did this 10 amp spec come from?
Carl
Glad it worked for you Carl, but even Infinity warns that the switch is not designed to handle full flap current….or at least they used to. It’s a tiny little miniature toggle switch. Are you sure your relay isn’t handling the load?
For my passenger stick I used some components designed for industrial automation, consisting of M12 connectors and some high-flex cable, which is much more compliant than standard aircraft wire. The threaded connectors have a locking feature and are small enough to mate inside the stick tube, and the cable exits through the bottom between the rod end bearings. I bought a male/female cordset so I could avoid trying to solder the tiny connector pins. This ended up working great and I'd do it again. Full details here: https://www.rv7blog.com/2023/05/27/stick-grips-wiring/
Looks like a great solution for the electrical connection. I couldn't help noticing what looks like a spring-type quick disconnect for removing the stick itself.For my passenger stick I used some components designed for industrial automation, consisting of M12 connectors and some high-flex cable, which is much more compliant than standard aircraft wire. The threaded connectors have a locking feature and are small enough to mate inside the stick tube, and the cable exits through the bottom between the rod end bearings. I bought a male/female cordset so I could avoid trying to solder the tiny connector pins. This ended up working great and I'd do it again. Full details here: https://www.rv7blog.com/2023/05/27/stick-grips-wiring/
I respectfully and cautiously call to attention Van's SB 07-2-6 regarding removable copilot control sticks:
https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-07-2-6/
Fly safe, Y'all.
Thanks, I'm aware of that SB, and chose to implement my own AMOC. My passenger stick is definitely not going anywhere.
I've used a deutsch connector. I have to remove the seat to open the access panel in the RV-10
www.aviatorshop.eu
25.8.2021 Grip Sticks installed –
www.aviatorshop.eu
Carl Froehlich
Well Known Member
This is from the Infinity web page:
“Trigger, Toggle & Tactical Push-Button Switches are rated at: 6 AMP’s @ 12 VDC / 3 Amp’s @ 28 VDC“
Considering I have a 5 amp breaker for the flaps, I’m well inside this rating. Shoot fire the flap motor takes less than 5 amps.
Is there something I don’t understand? Are new flap motors drawing that much current?
Carl
Little Wing
Well Known Member
Carl Froehlich
Well Known Member
For those using Infinity Grips, there is a trick.
Every switch has a separate ground return. This come in handy when you want to have an isolation switch for Flaps and Trim between pilot and copilot. This is done with a DPDT switch that selects which stick gets ground for these functions.
For all the other functions you can combine the ground returns into on wire (so one pin on a connector). With some thought you can get the connector wires down to a standard 15 pin D connector. As few if no wires draw appreciable current, this is simple.
Here a pig tail coming out of the stick goes to the connector.
Another option is to have the stick wire such that you can remove the stick and lay it down on the cabin floor. No connector needed.
Side note, if you design your panel to be removable the need to have a removable stick so you can put your head under the panel mostly goes away.
Carl
Every switch has a separate ground return. This come in handy when you want to have an isolation switch for Flaps and Trim between pilot and copilot. This is done with a DPDT switch that selects which stick gets ground for these functions.
For all the other functions you can combine the ground returns into on wire (so one pin on a connector). With some thought you can get the connector wires down to a standard 15 pin D connector. As few if no wires draw appreciable current, this is simple.
Here a pig tail coming out of the stick goes to the connector.
Another option is to have the stick wire such that you can remove the stick and lay it down on the cabin floor. No connector needed.
Side note, if you design your panel to be removable the need to have a removable stick so you can put your head under the panel mostly goes away.
Carl
REALLY appreciate all the input. The connector shown by Matt is what I was hoping to find (that will fit inside the stick). All these connectors certainly should work. From Matt's pic it looks like more than the 7 pins I will need. On the amps, I need to do more homework. I already took apart the covered area between the seats and cannot read the motor info without removing the motor. I do know it has worked fine with the wiring in the Infinity Grip for many years and, it has a 10A breaker. I think the easy answer is measure the current draw. The wires going to the stick are all heavy gage so that doesn't help much. I did make sure the aircraft met all SB's, and it does have a removable fastener holding the stick in place. I'm out of town for a few more days but I'll post what I find out. Thanks again
OK - I get it - you have an Amp to spare….. I get that. JD’s web site is a little inconsistent, as in some places he suggests that the switch should be used to control a relay, and in other spots he doesn’t mention it.
I guess I’m still not sure how you wire a SPDT switch to reverse the flap motor wires without a relay…but you said you are running a relay…so I’d think that the actual current to the motor wires were going through the relay, and the switch tells the relay what to do.
Just want to leave a good bread crumb trail for future readers of this thread, so a drawing of how you did it would be good!
I’m using a. GAD27 on my my recent build, so I just feed the switch to that and let it control the motor.
Niko Lamberg
I'm New Here
I used TE Connectivity Micro Mate-N-Lok connectors. They are affordable, miniature and there are several models with different numbers of pins.
I have Tosten CS-8 grips and I think I used the 10-pin connector. It is small enough to fit through the grip tube.
As others have suggested, I would also combine the grounds into a single wire to be able to use a smaller connector.
Niko
I have Tosten CS-8 grips and I think I used the 10-pin connector. It is small enough to fit through the grip tube.
As others have suggested, I would also combine the grounds into a single wire to be able to use a smaller connector.
Niko
Carl Froehlich
Well Known Member
Simple. A DPDT relay with normally open and normally closed contacts. With the relay not energized power goes to “Flaps Down”. Move the stick toggle switch up and power goes to the relay and relay contacts. The normally open contacts go shut and are wired so the flaps go to “Flaps Up”.
But as I mentioned, I have shifted over to the nice Flap Positioning System from Van’s as I like the one bump fixed positions.
Carl
