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January 19, 2021.  Issue #5,259 (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

My RV Weekend ...various



 

Trim and Flap Relays....to DIODE or NOT ..? ...Chris Lunt

I wonder if I can lay myself open to ridicule and ask my fellow builders a really numpty question about using diodes in relays.....?

I'm using Vans' RV7 flap motor, Ray Allen Company(RAC) trim switches and pitch trim motor, and wish to incorporate servos to activate my flaps and trim motor.
I'm using AircraftExtra's servos but specific manufacturer aside, my question is far more generic.

I am trying to instal these servos in my flap and pitch trim circuits.....and good old Bob Nuckolls has provided the very schematics I need...  -->

 

Mysterious white powder

lately been seeing some white powdery areas on the rug. Usually but not always under the panel. Can't figure out where it's coming from. Anyone else seen this? Hopefully it's not related to some kind of corrosion...

 

Mothership Shipping Update ...Jan 18 update

 

Oops I let the smoke out

Building my RV7I have install the extra aircraft FPS plus system however when I was installing this system I caused a ground inadvertently which fried the wires in the circuit panel now I am attempting to solder those wires back together with standard wire and soldering techniques and wondering what your opinions would be on this matter. I have talk with rich at aircraft extras and he seems to think if the soldering goes well in appropriate supplier sized use this would remedy the situation in all will be well. What are your thoughts

 

Some RV-4 Love

(vfrazier)
I was still in my 20's when I built this.

(Roadjunkie1)
Still one of my favorite photographs of SuzieQ.

(Scott Hersha)
Prior to my new Sensenich GA prop:

 

Another Vote For Clickbond ...jbb

I also have used the Clickbond cable tie mounts and Clickbond two part methyl methacrylate adhesive, with good results, on both RV fiberglass and aluminum parts.

They are more expensive than consumer level products, but are used in the aerospace industry and are designed to not come loose once bonded to a properly prepared surface. The product instructions say to prepare the surface by scuffing and wiping with alcohol or equivalent solvent.

 

200KT GS Monday ...not really hard with a 31KT tailwind <grin>

 

 

January 18, 2021.  Issue #5,258.
   Hope you had a nice weekend and got to spend some time with your RV plane/project.
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)
 

My RV Weekend ...Scott Chastain RV-8

 

New Rudder stub spar ...Rob Carsey RV-12iS

I ordered the rudder trim tab recently just in case I needed it (it was only $7). New KAI instructions were sent with it. I noticed a new internal piece inside the rudder that was not part of my original rudder KAI.

Does anyone know why this piece was added (R-01211 STUB SPAR)? Is it necessary if you want to add the trim tab? What is the risk? Is it worth adding it after the rudder has been built?

 

RV-6 Project Painted ...Nelson235

Milestone: "Today I got one big step closer. Painted the fuselage."

 

Tracking Down Oil leak - Looking Like a Stud

Pun intended...things were getting too oily so I decided to hunt it down. Here's what I did...
I washed down my O320-E2D really well with Aviation Simple Green and low pressure warm water to get most of oil and grime off.
Finished wiping off any residue really well with avgas and shop paper towels
Inspected engine under UV prior to running to ensure no oil was detected and engine was clean
Ran engine for 5 minutes
Inspected in dark hanger with UV flashlight

I possibly have a drainback tube leaking but I certainly have a cylinder stud or two leaking. Below is a picture of the worst offender. This is only after running for 5 minutes with a normal run-up.

You can see that the oil glows much better than I was expecting. I had read the Aeroshell glows under UV, but the this is Phillips XC without any dye added. In case someone wants to duplicate my process.

Im wondering what the best way to try and seal this up without pulling a jug??? Loctite 290 or low strength 220??? Permatex Spray Sealant

 

Falcon Flight Formation Clinic 2021, 9-11 April 2021, KTPL Temple, Tx

Happy 2021, Y'all!  Falcon Flight Formation Team is happy to announce our 2021 Formation clinic! This year's clinic takes place April 9 -11, 2021 in Temple, TX (KTPL). It WX gets us, we will have a BACKUP date of April 23-25, 2021.

 

Where is My Filter Bypass? ...avrojockey 9A

Standard CH48110 filter is called out in the parts catalog for the -E2D, but my engine has been equipped with a CH48103 (or equivalent) because it has a CH48212 converter stud installed.

It appears neither one of these filters has the built-in bypass as the Champion docs indicate only CH48108 and CH48109 have it.

I have the standard oil filter adapter pictured below...if the filter is blocked, how is unfiltered oil bypassed to provide lubrication? The way I understand it is the pressure will be relieved upstream like normal as the ball will unseat more, and a cooler blockage will be relieved by the vernatherm, but how does oil volume get the important stuff if the filter is blocked? Just trying to understand things work on my rig.

 

Corrosion ...Rob Hunter

Argh, corrosion from storage in the hanger. What do I do now. Tried alumaprep on it, but didn't seem to help as you can see.

 

Rudder fiberglass fit? ...kjowen RV-8

I have been tinkering with this step now for about 4 months...  I have seen the beautiful work on many -8's in this area and I am just trying to get mine to the point that it has no gaps...  Please take a look a the current status of this assembly and any suggestions would be appreciated.  -->

 

Manifold pressure sensor problem ...charrois

Hi everyone. I have a strange manifold pressure sensor indication that's just started in the last couple of flights.

After takeoff, I reduce my manifold pressure to 25", which I then maintain as long as possible during climb by adding throttle (if I don't, of course, the pressure drops as I gain altitude). However, lately, I see my manifold pressure *rising* as I climb, even without adding throttle, which makes no sense if things were working as they should. On my latest flight, right after reaching 10000', wide open throttle was showing around 26" initially, though in my experience, it should be closer to around 20".

Over the course of 10 or so minutes, the indicated pressure slowly reduces to what it should be reading.

When I change throttle, the indicated manifold pressure changes quickly, and as expected, so my first thought isn't necessarily blockage in the tube running from the engine to the sensor. I've just seen (so far) that during a climb (and presumably during a descent, though I haven't tested this), the indication is unreliable until levelled off for several minutes. Is there a vent on the sensor to outside air that may be partially blocked? Or equivalently, is there a fixed pressure chamber in the sensor that should be holding a constant pressure but is leaking to ambient?

Obviously, I can just replace the sensor and I expect the problem would go away. But I'm trying to understand what might cause this (and if it's just possibly a partially blocked vent hole, it may be easy enough to just clean out).

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

 

January 15, 2021.  Issue #5,257.
  Windy at 52F Thursday - gusting to 49 for an hour or so at nearby DTO so said the METAR.  It was down the runway, and some brave souls were flying (not me).  I did get the nice pic below that is now my cell phone wallpaper.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)
 

 

Tractor part made into bucking bar for back riveting

Cat 3 linkage pin, the polished end diameter is 1.5 inches, weight 2.2 lbs. Works well for back riveting skins.

 

Thoughts on RV9A Panel

So here is my panel layout.  Feed back welcomed.  I don't like where the ELT is located, but I want to get it away from passenger who may fiddle with it in flight. Also, I want access to change the battery.  The AP is on the left because I dont want to switch off accidentally in flight and I dont plan to be using the power switch much. Parking brake is under panel on left side.  Thanks in advance for your feedback.

 

Disappearing landing gear?

Here's an off-the-wall question for someone with human perception experience: Is it possible to paint a tailwheel RV's main gear so that it is less visible in flight, making the plane look more like a retractable from the ground? Would any of the "air superiority colors perhaps work? Is there a different answer if the goal is to make them less visible air-to-air?
Thanks,

 

What's wrong with this picture?

At least I discovered it before it got closed in.

CAV-110 Drain Thread Engagement ...Girraf

Q: Installing the drain valves in an RV-7 and the valve turns in very easily for the first 2 turns, then hits a wall where it gets really hard to turn. I experienced the same thing using the shrader valve attachment when pressure testing the tanks, and in that case, 2-3 turns was enough to seal the assembly. I used some boelube during pressure testing, and now using EZ turn for the drain valve installation. I'm concerned about damaging the threads on the Drain flange or driving the drain too deep into causing the flange to crack open.

Update later:
Drain valve installed with EZ turn lubricant. Finger tight was about 1 turn. Went an additional 1.5 turns with a 1/2" crescent wrench. Showing about 3 threads on the drain valve and I would guess about 3 engaged in the drain boss. Valve is actuating freely. Thanks for the inputs.

 

HYD Lock in the 912 Rotax ...rvbuilder2002

I think Hyd lock on a 912 Rotax is an urban myth. There is not enough volume in the tank to fill the engine enough to cause it unless your hangar is built on the side of a hill and not level. And a low mounted tank would reduce the tendency for oil to be siphoned from the tank to the engine case. If anything, the RV-12 would be considered to have a rather high mounted tank (within the range allowed by Rotax's specifications).

The document on our web site (here) explains it pretty well. Some of the observant experts will read it and say "The oil doesn't get pumped from the engine back to the tank. It is pushed by positive crank case pressure." Yea, I know that. The description was used to explain the process in simple terms, to those that are unfamiliar with a 912 Rotax.

 

Elevator Update ...tdragger1966

In the end I did remove the skin, flute and re-rivet. Turned out pretty good but did take a long time.

 

Help My Next Door Neighbor's Granddaughter Find a Bone Marrow Match

Dear VAF Universe,

I need your help.  Patsy is my next door neighbor.  Her granddaughter Audrey (picture inset below) who lives a couple of miles away was recently diagnosed with Severe Aplastic Anemia and we're trying to help her family find a bone marrow transplant candidate that matches her.  You can text AUDREY to 61474 if you would like to add yourself to the registry.  A swab kit will be mailed to your house (free if you're 18-44).  From the site: "Doctors request donors in the 18-44 age group over 85% of the time. If you are between the ages of 45-60, you are welcome to continue with your registration, but will be required to make a $100 payment to cover the cost to join the registry."

Audrey is a sweet kid.  Food for thought: 1) there are 30,000 registered accounts here and easily another 30,000 unregistered 'lurkers', 2) life is a precious thing, and 3) helping someone doesn't have to take much effort.

Here's your chance to step up and walk the walk.  Spread this info to those you think could help.  Given the choice I would rather you sign up for this registry than send in a yearly VAF donation. 

Our airplanes are great.  Helping a kid is better.

v/r,


(enlarge)

 

January 14, 2021.  Issue #5,256.
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)
 

A Nice Use of the Mothership Logo ...used with permission (cderk's RV-10)

 

Analysis Paralysis ...salty

So, the wife and I are trying to get started with our tail build, we finally have all the tools needed and have worked on the training kits. But, I feel like we're getting worse, not better. It's probably not that we're actually getting worse, but rather, that I now know enough to realize how bad we are.

But, I'm reluctant to start on the real thing due to two issues.

1. We're still messing up the skin pretty badly every now and then. We know why we're doing it wrong and how to not do it, but the actual doing it right part isn't consistent yet.

2. No matter how many times we read the instructions and review it until we think we know what to do, we still make stupid mistakes now and then drilling out the wrong size hole, or do things not in the best order. I think our biggest mistake here is not marking the parts and then after sitting them down getting confused.

I'm looking for feedback on the above, and guidance on when to know we're read to do the real thing. It just feels like we are going backward because even though we're probably getting more consistent, we see the mistakes more obviously and I feel like we are doing worse.

Adding a few examples of the horrid mistakes we're still making.

 

Ok to skip NAV radio?

A bit struggling to choose between Garmin 225A COM and 255A COM/NAV.

I will install a G3X and a GNX 375. Most likely I will only fly VFR with my 7 (even if I have Instrument rating), but it is nice to have an IMC approach backup just in case. LPV approaches are possible with the GNX /G3X which would do the trick.

So, any disadvantages with skipping the VOR/ILS radio (and that ugly antenna) and go with just the 225? But I might have missed something?

If I go with the "COM only", I would have preferred the GTR 200B over the 225 as the 200B intercom apparently is superior of the one the 225, but as I need a radio wit 8,33 spacing it seems the only way to go is the 225.

 

EXTAAFLY's Duckworks to LED Project

I started to alter the opening, then got an offer I could not pass up from a local tool builder and world renown candy maker.  He has a couple of pretty nice airplanes under his belt too. . .  riveted a doubler on with some nut plates at the corners, then attached the AeroLED.

 

Scratch Removal Best Temp?

Q: right temp for removing plexi scratches
I have scratched my canopy and bought a Scratch off kit, however I'm wondering if I would be better off doing this job after it warms up... Temps are now in the 35 to 50 degree range.

I know you are better served cutting the canopy when it is warm but does the temp of the plexi make a difference in doing repairs?

A: (sprucemoose)
Although we have exhaustively tested Scratch-Off compounds at low and high temperatures, (40-50 and above 85), and have had success, we recommend working temperatures above 65 and less than 80. (Please note all temps are Fahrenheit). The compounds are a culmination of years of research and are compromised of fairly complex chemical chains - these chains require certain temps to work in harmony. The aggregates in them are of a diminishing return- that is they start out aggressive, needed for defect removal, and as they are worked they break down into microscopic "marbles" if you will. These microspheric marbles create a "No Cut" action helping to finish off the surface leaving little or no swirls - depending on the experience of the user. To date - this technology is the purest form of polishing acrylic and polycarbonate surfaces. This process has maximized performance between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

RV-12 Master Switch Replace

(mcems) I would like to hear from anybody that has replaced their master switch on the panel. It appears it should be simple.

Mine doesn't want to come out . I have cleared the plastic retainer clips that holds it in the panel,but it will not come out of the circuit board that it plugs into. Are they soldered in??? I was told they are not. I do not want to force it and break the circuit board.

How did you change yours ??

(MMiller) Brad, on the D180 all the switches are soldered. Here is a screenshot of the back of the PCB at the mater switch.

 

Don't Drink Alodine ...DARV8

Just a reminder about Alodine and contact with your skin.

I've worked with Alodine for many years, but never had a problem / exposure until yesterday------

Last night, I removed my gloves after alodining some empennage parts (which took about 30 minutes in total). I noticed I had a pin hole in my right glove when I saw the tip of my thumb had turned yellow (like when you've pealed a nice fresh and tasty minneola tangerine).

About 6-7 hours later I felt sick to my stomach and had fever/chills.

Since I never had a problem before and I was at home and there was low risk, I used some cheap latex gloves. I'm sure safety wire nicked them somewhere. Anyway, I've gone back to military chem suit gloves. Maybe overkill, but they're made of Viton Rubber (it says so on the cuff) which has excellent chemical resistance anything I've encountered in aviation. New (Old Stock) they're $2-$5 a pair at just about any Army Surplus store. (Gloves made of Viton from a civilian supplier can be very expensive).

Anyway - just a reminder - especially for you young guys who want a family. And yes I know alodine sucks for the environment and there are new products you can put some ice in and an umbrella on the edge and drink while sitting next to a pool. I encourage you to use them. However, I'm old and should already be dead so I'll stay with what I've got.

Anyway, this morning I looked up the MSDS from Bondrite and was a little shocked to read the "if skin contact" procedure.
__________________
Dave Armstrong
Army, retired, 1-each

 

 

January 13, 2021.  Issue #5,255.
  Good RV Wx returned to my area and lots of RVs were taking advantage of it Tuesday morning.  I wanted to put a little more of a spotlight on 'Nova RV's' PnP mission this past weekend (below).  It was in the 'What did you do this weekend...' thread yesterday, but it's such a cool picture it needs to be the splash for a day (IMHO).  Great work there, Chris!
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)
 

PnP Mission ...Nova RV RV-14A

Pilots N Paws rescue flight with one dog and 2 cats. Great way to get my flying fix and help out.

 

Oil Line Fitting for Oil Pressure ...PhatRV

What is the fitting do you guys use to attach to the oil pump outlet so the oil cooler line + oil pressure sensor line can be attached? Can you provide the AN part number?

This is the oil port below the oil filter where I think the oil fitting should go which allow for the connection of the big oil line and the smaller oil pressure sensor AN fitting.

This is the oil pressure AN fitting to the sensor according to the plan.

 

First Flight Reported ...on mothership

 

First flight of the year! ... flat tire :-( ...Lycosaurus

Shirley and I went out for our first flight this year. Sunday was not the best day for ceilings, however turbulence was low and we had a nice flight.

Upon our return (CYRP), our landing was fine and we long taxied to the taxiway, but something did not seem right. Needed more power than usual and some strange vibration. Stopped near the threshold of 04 so as not to impede any other traffic and stepped out to check on the tires. Yup, front tire is flat. Called the FBO to let them know of our predicament and that we were going to get some tools from our hangar and attempt to inflate the tire.

A hangar neighbor Jeff offered us a dolly in case the tire would not inflate or remain inflated long enough for the taxi back to the hangar. Jeff actually took the screwdriver from my hands and eagerly started working on the wheelpant). Thanks Jeff Whaley.

After removing the nose wheel pants, we tried tire inflation and the indications were that there must be a large leak. Lifted the nosewheel and strapped it to the dolly. Used the towbar with a McGyver'd tow attachment to the trailer hitch. A slow walking pace back to the hangar ensued while being very attentive to cracks and ice on the ground (the castoring rollers on the dolly are small and hard offering no suspension).

I have the nosewheel at home now and will take a look in the next few days. The rim is fine, though the tire will need replacing due to rubbing marks. I am sure the inner tube is toast as well. Made for an interesting day... if you take a positive spin on it. Jeff and Matt were there to check up on us and offer assistance. On tow back, we had ourselves a convoy.

 

Panel Thoughts ...various chiming in

(danastoker) I have been flying with my Dynon panel, two 7" D-100/D-120EMS and the right screen is useless to me because it cannot be viewed at an angle. I am upgrading to a full Garmin panel this month and to help with the distance to the right screen I am going to have the two G3X 10" screens right next to each other with the GPS / AP / audio / SL-30 to the right of that with a G5 to the left. I [hopefully] have attached my proposed panel.
Any thoughts on the two panels being together like this? Thank you for the help.

(Planecrazy232) I'm on the side of stacking the screens next to each other. Mine has the 10" and the 7" side by side and I find it comfortable to reach the GPS and autopilot controls. Start up switches on the left and flight switches in the center. I agree the two 10" screens side by side would make the radio stack very hard to work with. If I have a second pilot with me I can turn the 7" display into a PFD with the touch of one place on the screen. Ipad is on the yoke with a Ram mount.

(Nova RV)  FWIW I have a 10" on the right as well, not so much for a co-pilot but I can leave a full screen chart or wx map up when I fly. It's not too far away to see and interact with easily.

 

Aux Tank Thoughts....Mike Bauer

After reading an on-line article about aluminum tanks by Tony Bingelis (EAA Sport Aviation-Dec. 1986) decided to go for it.

The article mentions .040 to .050 aluminum for the tank. This is for a permanent mounted tank.

Thinking a portable tank might get banged around some; went with the .090. Besides an installed main tank will have supports, this portable needs to rely on itself. Bulging sides (hydraulic action) could flex and cause cracks in my mind.

Since it is temporary, the extra thickness doesn't really make a difference. Plenty strong and the aluminum is a little easier to weld. The extra weight is a non-issue for a temp.

Kevin, the TIG guy, did say the .090 was a perfect choice. Had already bought it getting ready to do my own welding. (Not very good on aluminum yet)

My tank had Zero leaks when Kevin was done TIG Welding it. I spent two days cleaning the mill off of the aluminum, then in about 45-minutes he TIG welded the whole thing using vertical welds.  -->

 

 

January 12, 2021.  Issue #5,254.

My RV Weekend ...various




 

P lead

I can't seem to find this anywhere on the forum so here goes. I have a Slick Magneto model 4313 with impulse coupling installed on the left side of my new factory delivered Lycoming O-360. While checking out my wiring I noticed that the P lead seems to have no resistance to ground.
1. Do I have the correct connector for the P lead: I am using the nut and the fiber washer on the top of the magneto for the P lead and the shield ground is the screw marked GND.
2. Does the p lead normally have no resistance to ground?
3. Why?

I think the part that I can't get around is the fact that you ground the P lead to stop the magneto from firing so why is it seem to be grounded already.

 

Two Muff Setup ...KeithB PIREP

I have a Vetterman exhaust with 2 muffs, but I also have a Superior cold air induction sump, so potentially different. I plumbed my air differently than Vans instructions because of these differences, but I'm happy with the result and do not have cowl interference, though some clearances are close.

Conceptually, from the intake on the ramp, I went through the fuel injection air intake tubes to the back of the sump to a T split, sending intake air to each muff located on separate final exhaust pipes (output of 2-to-1), then each muff's output goes to the separate heater vents.

Van's installation has muffs in series using heat from 2 of 4 cylinders splitting output air - my installation uses muffs in parallel using heat from 4 of 4 cylinders splitting input air.

 

Tightening RV8 NAS1804 Landing gear nuts ...Mikeyb tip

I made this offset socket to torque the nuts in the gear towers. It's a 12 point 7/16 socket driven by a 1/4" drive 9/16 crowfoot wrench and brazed tougher. The 1" offset allows you to reach under the vent lines. You do have to compensate for the offset in torque setting but it's pretty easy to use.

 

 

January 11, 2021.  Issue #5,253.

West Coast Formation Clinic (WCFC 2021) in Apr has been postponed indefinitely. ...AX-O

All,
due to the current virus situation, the West Coast Formation Clinic (WCFC) for 2021 has been postponed indefinitely. The management team will re-evaluate the situation later on and determine if a WCFC is possible in the fall.

 

8A1 RV-12 Meetup ...Bob Costello

Three valiant members of Van's Air Force got our RV12's together for a photo op at 8A1 (Guntersville, Alabama)


 

Picture and a tale regarding ADS-B ...Brad Benson

...Anyway, a month or two ago on a return from a trip west, ATC put us in a nice bank right over the top of MSP at about 14,000 and I thought "If Pete Howell were here, he'd take a picture!". Unfortunately, taking pictures from the cockpit of an airliner are frowned upon by many and so it was instead stored away as an idea for later.

Last week the weather was amazing, and so I thought I'd go take that picture in my RV. Not wanting to deal with all the usual stuff around a class B airport, I figured out a route that'd keep me out of the way of the airline traffic and motored up to 12,500' - well above the 10,000' top of the MSP class B. My plan was to loop around KMSP once taking a bunch of pictures to sort out what I wanted later. Since it can be a busy airspace, aside from the ADS-B traffic displays I had departure and approach on the main and standby frequencies (I can listen to both at the same time) on com1 plus guard on com2.

Imagine my surprise when I hear "N164BL, Minneapolis Depature". Completely unsolicited. I never called them, nor was I ever required to talk to them as I never encroached on any airspace that required two way radio comms. Obviously, ATC had my N-number via ADS-B and I had no reason to not talk to them, so I answered. I had recognized the controller's voice and I think she recognized mine - it was a pretty friendly exchange and she was just curious what I was doing. It also helped, I think, when I explained that I was aware of and remaining clear of the WLSTN departure along with the BAINY, KILLR, and MUSCL arrivals.

They offered flight following for the return to KSGS; I accepted, and that was that. Pretty uneventful otherwise. But remember kids - the 'S' in 'ADS-B' stands for 'surveillance' :-)

 

Status Report ...jcarne

It has been awhile since I posted an update. Long story short after getting my engine back from the builder there was a problem with an impulse coupler on the left mag. This was after I had it aaaalllll hooked back up again. Here is the thread detailing that incident if you missed it. (pictures on second page) I sent the mag back to my builder for evaluation and eventually it will make it's way back to Champion. I'll update the findings later but at this point everything is pointing to a manufacturing defect.  -->

[ed. Sump on the kitchen counter.  That's one brave man, there. ;^).  dr]

 

Homebuilder's Week Heads Up ...vic_syracuse

Here are the links to a couple of my presentations during the EAA Homebuilder's Week, January 26-30. One will be on Buying a Used Homebuilt, and one will be on Condition Inspections.

The one on Buying will be different than in the past, in that I will not have any pictures. Just plan on helping you through the decisioning process, inspection, and ownership.

The CI webinar qualifies for Wings Credit.
 

1/26/21

 

1/27/21

 

1/28

(more)

 

Machined Label on Exterior Latch...rjcthree

I paid a six pack to machine this into the handle.

 

Fuel pump failure within the first hours ...KayS

Hi All,

my 7 has now 35 hours on it and it seems my mechanical fuel pump (Tempest AF 15473) fails. the transparent nylon tube at the overflow outlet showed blue avgas-colour from the beginning. i wasn't aware that this is a problem until lately. i understand now there's only fuel at the overflow when the lower diaphragm leaks. well, the entire project took much longer than expected so the pump was sitting dry for ten years, maybe that caused the problem. i do have some questions...

1. i assume that this failure is very critical, although i have a electrical boost pump. would you ground the aircraft for now?
2. do i have to replace the whole thing or is there a solution by just to replace the diaphragms? i don't know if the diaphragms are supposed to be replaceable. el cheapo as i am it would be nice if that's possible.

at 20 hours my skyview went down the drain and now that. phase 1 doesn't run extremly smooth i would say.

any help is very appreciated.

 

 

January 8, 2021.  Issue #5,252.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Kitty Hawk Photo ...Lt Dan

Helps to have a friend with a good camera!

 

Hello! ...Monica checks in.

Just wanted to say hello and introduce myself. My name is Monica, I live in London and have just taken on an 'almost' finished RV14 project. I've owned a few aircraft, an RV6, a beautiful RV7 (that I imported from SC) and two Christen Eagles. Apart from relatively minor improvements/panel upgrades, I'm new to building, so, a bit of a step up which is quite scary.

Very much looking forward to being part of the RV14 build community and will no doubt be asking for all sort of advice and help along the way.

Regards,

Monica
London, UK

 

First Flight Mr. William Mahon

 

RV-7 Builder Gets Sidetracked ...in a good way.

2020 was a bad year for a lot of reasons, but one bright spot for me personally is that over the course of the year I learned to fly helicopters. Back in January I had never even sat in one of these contraptions, and by Christmas I had earned my commercial helicopter pilot certificate with instrument rating. Due to the incredible expense I don't foresee myself doing any more helicopter flying just for recreational purposes, but this was a satisfying goal to accomplish.

It was also a lot harder than I thought it would be! It's barely an exaggeration to say that the only knowledge that's really transferable from airplane flying to helicopters is the general aeronautical knowledge stuff, and the only reusable skill is knowing how to talk on the radio.

To keep it RV-related, it's probably true that having experience with our airplanes and their quick, powerful controls is a net plus when transitioning to helicopters, even if there are still a lot of fixed-wing habits to be unlearned; flying ever-slower on final and landing flat without flaring feels very unsettling at first!  --->

 

Thoughts on my glass panel?  ..Mark 9A

I'm planning my RV-14 panel. As you see in my draft layout I have elected to use a 7" portrait G3X on the right side. My plan is to have an adjustable tilt of anywhere from 0-30 degrees towards the pilot. If i'm flying with another pilot it would sit flat. My experience from my last plane was that flying from left seat, the right glass panel isn't very easy to see and use - therefore putting a 10" panel there is not much use to me. Now one may argue that the pax or co-pilot would enjoy it. This layout has allowed me to preserved panel space to the right for a glove box and an iPad mount. Any thoughts or comments before I finalize my layout?

 

Oil Too Cold ...Scott Hersha PIREP

Some of us just have really cool running engines. My engine, like Don's runs cool. I tested my oil temp probe in a cup of water with two other thermometers and all three were within 3-4* of each other, and were that way all the way from starting to heat the water to when it got to 200*, so I'm confident my probe is OK. I'm running the standard Vans 7 row Stewart Warner style Aero Classic oil cooler.

If the OAT is below about 35*, I'll have the shutter completely closed, blocking all air at the front of the cooler, and the temp might get up to 160*. During some acro a few days ago, I saw 170*. I opened the shutter a couple clicks (Bowden cable) and within 2-3 minutes, the temp was down to 160, so I know the mechanism is working.

In the summer time, with no shutter installed I will typically see 175-185*. The most I've seen on very hot days after a long climb and some acro is 192*. I'm pretty happy with it.

 

No Foam Insulation please !

I have an RV in my workshop that had a landing incident that required all front and rear belly skins to be replaced.
This aircraft is only 3 years old and has only done 140hrs of flight time.

The builder elected to use Foam insulation throughout the aircraft including the firewall. He did a masterful job of sealing every nook and cranny of the lower skins.

The foam was a closed cell type that you can buy at any hardware store.

Problem 1
The foam was so well applied that it sealed in any moisture preventing the normal evaporation of condensation. Compounding this problem was that no skins or ribs were primed or treated with alodine. This was just bare alclad against alclad.
The accelerated corrosion was heartbreaking.


 

Messed up motor mount threads ...Jeff Wright RV-12

Man, sometimes i just hate this plane. There have been SO many little things and some big things too. Long shipping times, hanger rash, changes mid construction. It just seems to go on and on.

Now I finally received my 912IS (after waiting almost 6 months) and right off the bat there is an issue. The threads in the case for the upper left motor mount seem bad. First I thought it was the mount. And then I thought it was the bolt itself. So after trying another bolt I finally tried to screw the bare bolt into the case and it only goes in for a few turns then stops. WTF!

I'm kinda at a loss right now. Looking at the Rotax web site they direct you to a "dealer". And of course there are none anywhere near me. At this point I feel like taking a sledge to the whole dam project.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

 

 

January 7, 2021.  Issue #5,251. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Old Thread Refresh ...First Flight to First Flight

(Krea Ellis) 
Old thread, but seemed like a good time to add a new post.

We have talked for some time about making the journey as our first overnight trip and we were finally able to make it happen. Glad to have the instrument ticket and a plane IFR equipped. Sirius-XM and FIS-B weather was extremely useful in making a change in fuel stops on the way home.

The Wright Brothers Monument is one of those places any aviation enthusiast should visit. Flying into FFA in an airplane we built was a wonderful experience.

(Jvon811)

 

Al Karpinski's VS Tip Camera Setup

I had to give it a shot mounting a camera with audio in the top of the empennage... Seemed like a cool place to mount one..

If we can just get some good sunny weather here in upstate NY to really check it out.. But it looking good..

 

Brake Pedal Alignment ...BobbyLucas

Page 28iS/U-02...

Step 4 has you clamp the torque tube assembly to the work surface and then lock the rudder pedals into the neutral position. The result is that the rudder pedals are not vertical, i.e. not perpendicular to the work surface, rather they are canted in toward each other at ~4.5-6 degrees from vertical.

Step 6 then says "Use a square to make sure both the WD-1209 and WD-01206-1 are vertical (or perpendicular to the work surface), then clamp the brake pedals to the rudder pedals as shown."

As described in step 4, the setup does not allow the rudder pedals to be "vertical (or perpendicular to the work surface)."

So were we meant to unclamp the assy from the work surface in order to align everything vertical with a square, so that the brake and rudder pedals are parallel?

Or are the brake pedals supposed to be vertical while the rudder pedals are canted-in, resulting in the brake pedals not being parallel with the rudder pedals?

...or is the neutral angle of the brake pedals a matter of comfort/preference?

Hmm, so maybe I was focusing on the wrong part of the torque tube assembly being vertical...

Now I'm thinking that it's the two center brackets that are supposed to be vertical and not the rudder pedals themselves?

So center brackets vertical, rudder pedals canted-in, and brake pedals vertical.

Yeah, I think that makes sense now for the controls to be in the neutral position

 

Glare shield edging ...various

Hi everyone. Building the 14A and wondering what you're using for the glare shield edge. Checked McMaster Carr and can't find anything that would look good, thanks Denni

 

 

January 6, 2021.  Issue #5,250. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)


30,000
...milestone.

Thanks again for goofing off at work.  I'll continue trying my hardest to bring you a quality product.  dr

 

Transient oil pressure spike ...rv6n6r RV-6

A few times in the last 20 hours, during taxi out on the first flight of the day, my oil pressure has spiked briefly over redline. If I pull the throttle all the way back it goes below redline and if I wait a few minutes all will be fine again including runup and throughout the flight.

Troubleshooting guides point to wrong grade of oil for the temps or a stuck vernatherm. This has happened with OATs in the mid 40s to low 60s. Oil is Aeroshell W-100, with Camguard added so it shouldn't be that. I pulled the vernatherm and all looks clean, the ball and seat are smooth. I put a copper wire down the oil channel to the sump, there didn't seem to be any obstructions, comes out clean with no gunk on it. Last oil change I checked the sump screen which was clean, as was the oil filter.

The only oddity I can find is that the vernatherm spring has a flat worn on one coil, see picture. Also looking into the body of the Vernatherm, there does seem to be some wear in a spring coil pattern.

My questions are, could that flat and coil wear be indicative? Seems like that wouldn't do it but what do I know. Also if my oil pressure spiked that much (143PSI) for a short period could it cause damage I don't know about? I've had the cowl off since and there are no blown seals or anything as far as I can tell. Other than this it continues to run like a top. This is a Lycoming O-360-A1A with C/S prop.

 

They Know About Shrinkage, Right?

Q: Elevator foam trailing edge rib tips ...stigaro

While I didn't make this mistake, I could see how it could occur. I have access to a 11x17" printer and was able to make a printout of the foam cutout templates from the digital .pdf files on Van's website. After making sure the templates were the correct size (be sure to print "Actual Size"), I noticed that the paper plans provided by Van's were printed about 95% scale. So, had I used the actual page 09-29 templates as supplied (or a photocopy), the ribs would be too small. So don't assume the paper plans you receive from Van's to have the correct page scaling. Maybe some do, mine didn't.

On another note, in my empennage kit, I was provided 5 PVC foam blocks, 4 were 5.25" long and the 5th was only 4" long. I'm not sure if this is how Van's is supplying these blocks now or if was just unlucky, but after some repositioning, I did manage to get all 3 ribs to fit the 4" block, but it's pretty tight. I used a hot wire to cut these out as I'm not sure a bandsaw would have worked.

A: (rvbuilder2002)
There are a lot of reasons that a paper drawing can be out of scale.

A major one that people are not typically aware of is shrinkage or expansion of the paper due to changes in temp and humidity.

The amount of change can be significant depending on the conditions delta compared to when it was originally printed.

That is one of the reasons for the scaling reference being present on all drawings that are have full scale templates printed. It should always be cross checked before using as a template for any critical fit parts.

All of the processes described in the manual have been (test kitchen) tested in our shop, so I can assure you that the foam cuts very nicely on a band saw, assuming it is performing reasonably (no weird tracking on the blade, etc.).

 

UV Dye Leak Test ...Freemasm

Fuel Lube (now called EZ turn) on the gas cap O rings for the leak test. You'll be needing it at some point for other applications anyway. A great product.

Different note: I leak tested mine with UV dye added to ethanol free car gas before the back plate was installed and again afterward. There's no mistaking a leak or it origin. Didn't have any real ones, thank goodness. Be warned, the fuel will wick along the skins. In the photo, it did so to the unriveted backplate holes. Darn near *&^$ myself before I realized what had happened. Good luck.

 

Quandary with elevator tips--what would you do? ...tdragger1966

Recently purchased a nearly complete RV-10 tail kit and started work on Section 11. Started with bolting the h-stab to the work bench, setting rod end bearings and attaching the elevators. Both elevator tips interfered with the outboard ribs/skin of the h-stab. Prior builder never got this far so likely never noticed. After much head scratching and inspection it appears they are not straight but progressively "toe in" towards the stab (see attachments). Tried adjusting the rod end bearings but didn't provide enough relief. Asked Van's but they seemed perplexed. Have an EAA Tech Counselor coming this weekend but wanted to get some more opinions.

There's not enough edge distance to simply trim the elevators so I *think* the best solution is to drill out all the rivets in the counterweight skins, try to straighten the ribs while still riveted to the rest of the elevator and attach a new skin (assuming the holes will no longer align). How would you folks address this

 

Door latch pin plates ...rdamazio RV-10

Hi everyone.

On page 45-17, the plans have you fabricate and install the fwd/aft latch pin plates around the pins. I'm wondering: are those still necessary if using the McMaster seal and the Planearound pin blocks (which are larger/fill the gap properly)? I don't really understand their purpose, so it's hard to tell.

 

 

January 5, 2021.  Issue #5,249. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Vlad's Ring In the New Year Flights...many pics

 

Van's Aircraft - Temporary Shipping Dept Closure Through January 15th ...mothership

"Due to a recent, unfortunate COVID-19 exposure event, we have sent our parts and hardware shipping team home for a 14-day quarantine period. That means we have only a couple of people in place to try to support a workload that is normally staffed by more than 10 individuals.

As a result, our shipping department is currently considered to be closed until January 15th, with the exception of bonified emergency shipments. If you have an aircraft stranded on the ground or another similarly legitimate emergency need, we will do the very best we can to help you out. Note that this closure primarily affects shipments of RV parts, accessories, and hardware. We will continue to ship RV kits (larger crated items), which are packed and managed by a different team. If we discover cases where certain kit-related items cannot be included we will backorder those individual items, if and when necessary, and ship them to you when available.

Note that during this period our shipping team will not be able to answer their phone. Instead, if you have an urgent need, please email shipping@vansaircraft.com and include your order number and other specifics in your email.

We will continue to take web and phone orders during this time, but be aware that we will not be able to ship non-priority orders on our normal schedule. From a practical perspective, for the time being we will not be able to accurately quote shipping timeframes for orders affected by this closure delay. We're working to partially staff the department during this period, but will not be able to achieve the same throughput until our staff returns. At that time, the team will have a backlog of shipments to get out and we will, of course, work hard to make that happen as quickly as we are able.

Please understand that this is a complicated time for us all, and especially difficult for the people who are working here to try to keep things running. We ask that you please be patient and considerate in dealing with our staff, as they're all under a lot of pressure right now to keep things afloat and moving.

We truly appreciate you and will do the very best we can, given the unusual circumstances. Thanks in advance for your support and understanding. We'll get through this together."

- The Van's Aircraft team

 

Trip to Grandma's ...AV8ER RV-10

Los Angeles KWHP to Dallas T31
Loaded up the family and a few bags (the RV-10 is a bottom less pit when loading bags) to start the trek home from Grandma's house.



 

RV-8 Status Picst ...D Weisgerber (Michigan)


 

First Flight

 

New Years Day Flight ...Erimo (France)

 

CAVU from 22,000 Miles Up. ...so says GOES-East.

Lot of RVating in Texas Monday as you might suspect.  Light winds and 55F.  A little band of snow out west still on the ground from a few days back, but that's melting fast.  Western CO looks pretty snowy.  One of the nicer days in TX here in awhile.

Dense cool air and sharp horizons.  Many RVs in the sky.  Good times.

 

Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft Course - January 27-29, 2021 ...Brad at Garmin

Greetings VAF!

Once again the Aircraft Electronics Association will be hosting an Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft Course on January 27-29, 2021. The class will take place at the AEA headquarters in Lee's Summit, MO (Kansas City suburb). For complete details and registration information, please visit the AEA Course Website.

This has been a popular training opportunity that includes hands-on wiring and avionics installation fundamentals, heavily focused on the Garmin G3X Touch system. Many VAF members have attended this course in the past! It is a 3-day course at a registration cost of $499. There are a limited number of spots available and space fills quick!

*COVID guidelines and social distancing measures will be in place for the class/facility.*

Let us know if you have any questions!

Best Regards,

Brad

 

 

January 4, 2021.  Issue #5,248.
  Hope you had a nice weekend and got to spend quality time with your RV.  And so starts another year - many RV flights in the books starting day one (below).  On a milestone note, the site here should get its 30,000th registered forum account today or tomorrow.  Some portion of that have moved on to other hobbies or passed on, but that's the nature of the gig.  Nice round number, though!
  I even got in a little .5 flight around the area Sunday in the RV!  A little cross-windy here, but no clouds and a sharp horizon.  Felt wonderful.
  Have a great week!
(Need a DFW area contract pilot?)
 

New Years Flights - add your flight ...Dvalcik gets it started

Thought I would start off a thread for first flights for 2021. Hope weather is better where you are but I did get to sneak off for a 50 min flight. 29 degrees and gloomy in the Philly area.







 

My trip to Branson MO ...bhester

Last weekend I did a little trip to Branson, MO. I updated my website with the trip report, nothing crazy just a nice little trip, check it out! Near the bottom of the page under Dec 2020.

 

2020 Eagles Nest Christmas Picture

Wisconsin Eagles Nest project added its 2020 Bah Humbug Grinch picture to its historical Christmas pictures of past. Sometimes you are to busy on framing the picture and you don't notice the reflection in the background. I love the reflection of our third plane "F3 Tercel" and our American Flag in the background.

 

Initial Wing Fit: Milestones=Motivation ...ryan RV-7

Trying to get as much done in my home garage on my RV7 project before I need to worry about moving to a hangar. I have some great experienced helpers close by that made this a very easy process yesterday morning.

I'll do all the work I can with the wings on, then remove them for later permanent install at the airport.

Next steps after the wings will be to permanently mount the tail pieces, then install the gear and hang the engine, all in the home garage.

 

FAA Safety Briefing (Jan/Feb)

 

When there's no room for Clecos ...Freemasm

Sorry if something similar was previously submitted. It's new to me (original thought even) Sometimes, clecos get in the way; think match marking butt splice edges when skins intentionally left "long" for fit-up.These super cheap pull rivets work well. All aluminum including the stem so they drill out super easy when done. The "dome" heads pull pretty flat so their probably the only ones needed. Certainly worth having a stash for build circumstances most haven't encountered yet. It certainly cut down the iterations required with making a tight butt joint. Just a thought. Best of luck.

 

Oregon Coast / public benefit flying ...Randall Henderson RV-6

Feature on the North Coast Land Conservancy's website highlighting my flying for that organization and LightHawk... nice to be able to do some "good works" with my plane

 

System Schematic Porn

In my quest to be the nerdiest sim rat on earth, I spent a few hours over the weekend gathering screen grabs from various AFM and POH manuals for my Phenom side gig.  Grabbed 'em, cropped 'em and hosted in a private SmugMug folder so I can re-arrange and group them in the order I want (Hydraulics, Electrics, System Logic, etc).  Checked the box to be able to view offline.  Auto-populates to my iPhone and iPad.

So the RV tie in......I'm thinking I can compile something similar for all of the schematics relevant my RV-6.  Avionics, P-mags, ELT, govenor, etc.  There are several dozen nicely illustrated logic schematics and more that might be useful to have in a single folder in my pocket at all times.  I'll let you know if it pans out.   A small grab of some of the 60+ illustrations I built up for the Phenom below... 

Anyone prepping for initial or recurrent might find this appealing.


 

 

December 31, 2020.  Issue #5,247.
 
Wishing you and yours a Happy New Year and a better 2021.  Horrible year this 2020 and I am most pleased to see it in the rear view mirror.  See ya Monday (and note the Mothership is closed Jan 1st).
((Need a DFW area contract pilot?)
 

Wheel Pant Jig ...Square Feet

Fitting the PR pants to my -6, I found the smooth aero shape rather frisky, if not downright unruly when wrestling on a flat table top. Dolly to the rescue. Seven bucks at Harbour Freight puts you back in charge of the conversation. Caster direction anchors pant, or allows freedom of movement. Enjoy.

 

Empennage/Tail Kit Question ...NEW GUY FIRST POST

I'm thinking about building a QB RV-14A, which would be my first RV build. Previously, I built a tube and fabric kit (mostly by myself) which had a comparatively small amount of riveting, nearly all of which could be squeezed or pulled. I'm trying to understand how much of the riveting of Empennage/Tail kit could be done by myself, without help. Any input any of you may have would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Ken Pabst

(Jetmart reply) I am a first time builder, never worked with aluminum and did not know how to rivet using any method other than pulled rivets. I riveted 99% myself. You will be able to find help for the few that you can't reach. I purchased the empennage kit a year ago to see if I would like it and could do it. I figured it was a small investment and the only real way to know. Figured if it did not work out I could recoup a good portion of my costs. If you built previously you will not have any problems. I have a few small projects to finish and then hang the engine. Go for it!

 

Why is my Pro-Seal turning to goo?

I am doing my third tank leak repair in 8 years. Each time I find that the Pro-Seal (I actually use ChemSeal, but they are the same ???) has turned to a gooey past that I can scrape off with my fingernail. I always use frash material, mix it and apply it per the instructions, and it always seems to set-up properly. 4 years later and it has turned to gooe .
My tanks are almost always full, 100% 100LL usage. Can anyone provide some insight or guidenance so I dont have to doo this again?

 

My Advanced Panel is here!! ...dwranda

UPS delivered my new Advanced panel from AFS. It's beautiful and I am excited to be learning how to install.


 

LAST DAY BEGGING

Donation List Updated 12/26/2020

2020 has been a yard sale in terms of both shit and storm to anyone running a small business, and as a 1-person business VAF is right there in the middle of the steaming pile that this year is.  I've flown our RV-6 an average of an hour a month this year and have been working a side job in the evenings and on weekends (and exploring more options) to keep up with bills.  Some advertisers have had to back out due to their own cash shortfalls.  We're all hurting.

If you're one of those daily readers of VAF who doesn't think a donation matters, and that I'm giving Jeff Bezos a run for his money, I'd beg ask you to reconsider and go read the donate page.  If you used the VAF classifieds and sold something for a thousand dollars with no hassle, maybe throw me a tiny thanky via PayPal (you can point your camera app at the little QR square top left).  Painless.  I'm telling ya, it really matters this year.

If you've already sent in an honor system donation in 2020, thank you for helping me keep VAF afloat, a roof over my head and our family fed.  If you haven't, please at least read this.

Sorry for the commercial.  v/r,

 

Brake Master Cylinder newbie question ...rcsilvmac

I am not very mechanically inclined, but my RV-6A is insisting I learn. I recently had the right brake lose pressure. Of course I need to bleed the brakes...so I spent the better part of a day figuring that out, then discovered that I had a leaking Cleveland master cylinder on the left pilot pedal. After researching this item, it seems the prudent thing to do is to replace it with a Matco one. Should I replace both on that side? What is the right replacement Matco part to purchase? Any advice before I embark on this next project? How do I keep the brake fluid from draining out all over my interior?

Thanks, and go easy on me!


 

Fuel Flow Transducer (Red Cube, FT-60) ...wirejock

Does anyone have experience to share on the Aircraft Specialty FT-60 mount for injected engines?  I only know one, Jereme, who has installed it. I don't believe he is flying yet.

 

My RV7 panel ...joew

I still need to run wires, but here it is.
Dual 10" G3X
GTX 45R
GTR 20R
GDL 51
GTN650 rack only
GMC
245 audio panel

 

Holes on the back of Propeller hub

See attached file, I have a Pacesetter propeller which have two holes on the back of the hub, anyone who knows what the purpose of these holes is? Balancing?

One is filled with resin and the otther one partly filled with a grey-ish glue.

 

 

December 30, 2020.  Issue #5,246. ((Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

The Tapes We Use ...htx9a PIREP favors Scatch Magic Tape

Instead of rivet tape, I discovered that Scotch matte finish "Magic Tape" works better than painter's tape or masking tape. It's mostly clear so you can still see the rivet head move around when you poke it from the back to identify that the bucking bar is in the correct location. It also comes off cleanly, no mess no fuss.

 

Poor mixture authority ...00Dan

I'm running an O-320-A3A with an MA-4SPA 10-3678-32 carb. The engine runs smooth (except below 750 rpm; I attribute that to the wood prop). I can't help but feel I am running lean due to the mixture control having very little travel before an RPM drop is observed. I did validate the mixture control is actuating the lever to both stops.

On the ground at approximately 1200 RPM I did not observe any RPM rise before a drop. In the air at 8500' and WOT I observed approximately 50-70 dF EGT rise on the three cylinders for which I'm instrumented; I can't say if this is peak or not, merely that's when RPM visibly dropped off. RPM rise is either not there or imperceptible on my tach. The one CHT probe I have is on #4 and sees up to 370-380 during a long 100 MPH climb and around 300-320 during cruise.
I'm not instrumented for fuel flow. These temperatures at with ambient temperatures about 55-60 on the ground.

I will be installing a JPI soon so I'll have an idea of what all four cylinders are doing plus have fuel flow information before making any changes. The lack of mixture authority is what got my attention though. I saw the posts here about RVs running lean and did some research, including calling MSA. They said the 3678-12 is the richer carb for my engine compared to the -32 I have installed. Yet, I saw posts here from the past year from others who called them and were told the opposite.

My theory is that this is one of two things - either my carb is running lean or I have one cylinder running very lean and causing an RPM drop off while the others are still rich.

Any thoughts or other avenues to explore here?

 

Mothership New Year Info

 

Primer wars of a different flavor

I'm at the part of the project where I keep saying I'm close to done with wiring, until I remember one more thing I forgot to account for on my wiring schematic. One of those things is the primer.

The primer on my continental O-300 powered 172 hasn't worked since I've owned it, and though I have the parts to fix it, and an A&P friend to supervise my work, I just pump the throttle a few times and it starts up in 2 blades, so I'm not motivated to fix it.

That said I'm thinking I can do the same on my Lycoming O-360 A1A on my RV-8, and save the trouble of one more thing that can break. I'm looking for advice from the collective on why that's a good idea or why that's a stupid idea. I live in Wisconsin, but my hangar is heated, and I plan on preheating if I'm away from home for a long period of time in cold weather. Other threads seem to be a mixed bag of "install one" and "don't bother", so I'm hoping to get a few fresh opinions and more importantly, the WHY behind them.

Thanks,
Sam
RV-8

 

PLEDGE DRIVE MONTH: (1) Days Left:

Donation List Updated 12/26/2020

2020 has been a yard sale in terms of both shit and storm to anyone running a small business, and as a 1-person business VAF is right there in the middle of the steaming pile that this year is.  I've flown our RV-6 an average of an hour a month this year and have been working a side job in the evenings and on weekends (and exploring more options) to keep up with bills.  Some advertisers have had to back out due to their own cash shortfalls.  We're all hurting.

If you're one of those daily readers of VAF who doesn't think a donation matters, and that I'm giving Jeff Bezos a run for his money, I'd beg ask you to reconsider and go read the donate page.  If you used the VAF classifieds and sold something for a thousand dollars with no hassle, maybe throw me a tiny thanky via PayPal (you can point your camera app at the little QR square top left).  Painless.  I'm telling ya, it really matters this year.

If you've already sent in an honor system donation in 2020, thank you for helping me keep VAF afloat, a roof over my head and our family fed.  If you haven't, please at least read this.

Sorry for the commercial.  v/r,

 

Counter-Sink Longerons and Side Skins (Aft fuselage)

Hey guys-
This is a specific question that I didn't get a clear answer from Vans. In the end, I already decided to countersink the skins but wanted to know if other managed to avoid this, did the same or just went with truss head screws.
On page 10-14 there are some specifics for an (optional) set of directions for people who prefer flush screws for the access panels. This lead to some additional dimpling of the #27 holes (for the #6 screw) and different set of nutplates to receive the dimnple.
There are also some places where you need to dimple the stiffeners (namely F-01486A-L&R). However, they do not address the two nutplates at the top (which get riveted to the longerons on page 20).
The even provide a fairly detailed image (attached below) for you to clearly see the holes you need to prep if you are priming (like me) and want to do all your prep first.
I decided to do an entire side first but when I got the nutplates (page 10-20) step 3 (optional) says to machine countersink the #27 holes common to the skins and the longerons. I assume they mean to countersink both the skins and the longerons at the same time as they are already riveted? It seems like it would have been easier to just dimple the skins and counter sink the longerons BEFORE installing the skins (when I countersunk all the #40 holes). Is this how other people did it or did they catch it ahead of time and countersink just the longeron and dimple the skin?
It does appear that I have ample edge distance but I sure didn't like countersinking the skin.

Thanks for your feedback. Curious if this is how others managed this part or if they caught it ahead of time and just countersunk the longeron.

Allen


 

 

December 29, 2020.  Issue #5,245.
  Winterish Wx and rain are moving into N.TX for the next few days, so many of the locals got in their RV fixes Monday morning while it was still spring-like, myself included.  Below a 'proof of enjoyment patina' pic of the gloves with Rob's RV-8 in the background, followed by some data gathering for the logbook and a grab of others around the area with the same idea.
  An RV Monday well lived!  Laughs with friends at lunch before battle with the computer.  Heart rate was highest pushing the plane out of the hangar and SpO2 99% during the flight, so says the nerd-a-tron.  The day peaked early and the mental gyros were nicely re-calibrated.
 
((Need a DFW area contract pilot?)


enlarge


 

N754RV Has a Twinn ...Daryl Tolliver

Built the pedal plane for my grandson Clayton. They make RV kits now.

 

Panel CAD ...cajunwings

I have emailed the Van's CAD drawing to a local water jet shop and they have cut out several RV9 Slider blanks that fit my plane perfectly. We have been working with cheap 3/16" plywood for now to finalize equipment and switch locations before the final cut of the metal panel.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress

 

Conical bend ...PaulvS 6A

Working on the dreaded conical bend where the side skins roll around under the belly in a conical shape. It took most of the day to get one side skin trimmed and partially rolled.

The Vans instructions say to clamp the skin between wooden blocks to make the bend but there is interference between the blocks so I have been using various flat steel bars instead. The main area to watch is the small end of the curve where the radius is about 1/8 inch only, to avoid potentially tearing.

I've looked at a few other completed RVs to see how other people have finished this curve and each one has been slightly different, some look better than others. The best finished one had been stretched with a roller tool along the trailing edge of the curve so I may also try that after I get some roller bearings to fabricate a tool.

 

Lost electric over mountains at night ...Mark

I'm a new RV-7A owner and last night was 'unique' to say the least.

I had my plane in for standard ADS-B install at an avionics shop. I have owned the a/c for about a week and a half with 3 or 4 flights and a bunch of daytime T&Gs under my belt and I'm comfortable with the with the plane (it is very easy to fly, land and very tame IMHO). Plane is beautiful: professionally built, low time all glass electric panel with backup steam gauges. The GRT screens are still befuddling to me and I feel like a dog watching TV (coming out of a G1000 panel). I'm still learning GRT buttonology in other words.

The install went way too long (forcing me to leave at sunset!); however it was only a short (40' flight) so what could go wrong? Well.. when I went to start up, the battery was drained (avionics were on/off all day long), so the shop gave me a boost to get the engine going. I launched with a bit of dread: I was going to fly over some serious terrain and one very tall pass at night in an unfamiliar airplane coming out the shop with a weak battery. What could go wrong indeed?

Oh about 15' later, as darkness surrounded me, and approaching the pass (I was at 14,000'), I turned on the Nav lights, pitot heat and everything just went dead instantly. No efis panels, GPS 400w or inside lights. A/C has e-mags BTW. On a positive note, I have lots of mountain flight time and am very familiar with the local terrain. This is important!

The steam gauges and a tru-trak electric ADI plus an iPAD for terrain and course were working so I was okay. I used my iPhone to light up airspeed and altimeter and luckily I got cell service. I called my destination airport (airport mgr) and screaming into the iphone (no headset or bluetooth for the bose) asked him to activate PCL so I would have lights. I thought I heard him say OKAY, so that was reassuring. I was only about 30' from destination and had runway lights but no landing lights. I did a perfect no-flap landing with a pretty gusty cross wind (12g20). This is a capable airplane in an emergency; however my decision making sucked I realize, so please don't flame me. I should have left the plane there got a rental car and made the 2+ hour car ride home. Sheesh! I consider myself a seasoned and safe pilot but got complacent and nearly had a bad outcome. I think my alternator took a dump but must investigate further. Lesson to all.

 

RV-4 Status Report ...Brad

Here is my extra extra long build RV-4. Just brought the second wing from home to the hangar and got it installed on the plane today. After 30 years its hard to say "its close" but it kind of feels like it

 

 

December 28, 2020.  Issue #5,244. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Flying! ...Ed Fleming (Zimbabwe)

First flight December 23rd 2020! She fly's beautifully, hardly any problems.  A big thank you to all on VAF who have posted over the years, it is the most incredible resource, could not have done this without the great community :

 

Rest in Peace Judy Avery

Bob Avery asked that I publish this for their friends in the RV community. His wife Judy passed on Dec 17. 

 

My Christmas Holiday RV Weekend  ...various



 

Skirts ...ryankhallcpa

I really wanted to give it my best shot at fitting the aluminum aft skirts as well as side skirts, but was concerned that the fit of the aft skirts would not come out well. I'm happy with these results. My slider seems to have small gills (gaps) at the lower aft corners, which I think is the most common challenge with getting the fit right on the skirts. However, I'm going to live with this. Tops and upper sides fit tight.

Do you have any idea how happy I am to be done with the slider?

 

Snapped Off Brake Bleeder Update ....JFCRV12

...I know what I need now, but man is that bleeder valve seat in there. I'll need to give these ideas a shot to get it out. Hate to need to purchase a whole new brake assembly.

Of course it snapped at the worst possible spot

 

Progress Pic ...Mark Malone RV-7

Recent progress pics to the end of 2020. Cowling and gear/wheel fairings

 

Rewire Done ...Steve Formhals

 

Uneven Tire Wear, Excessive Camber ...RonS RV-14A

I just replaced my left main tire after only my first 120 landings. The outside of the tire was extremely worn. See photos. I did a quick check with a digital level against the left wheel and found approximately 5 degrees of positive camber. In contrast, the right side is only about 1 degree positive. The right tire seems to be wearing more or less evenly. In the attached photo of the airplane you can actually see the difference in camber by eye. I emailed Van's to see what they recommend. Anyone else run in to this?

 

 

Christmas Eve / Christmas Day, 2020.  Issue #5,243.
 
Merry Christmas to all.  Susie and I send our love and hope that you, your family and friends have a wonderful holiday. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

 

What have I forgotten that goes in a panel? ...rmartingt

So my panel layout is finally coming together and I'm looking to get it laser-cut soon so I can start wiring in switches etc. Avionics will be dummy boxes for now so I can do the wiring. But I'm trying to think if I've forgotten anything. What I have provisions for now:

 

Dave J's RV-3

...my personal rocket ship!

 

Can I run AOA tubing in this conduit? ...MacCool

I need to run some 1/4" blue AOA tubing from my pitot mast to the cockpit. Hard to do after the build...options include fishing it down to the root in some abrasion sleeve through the lightening holes right behind the pushrod.

BUT...I'm wondering if I can just cut a little access hole in the 3/4" nylon conduit and run the AOA tubing root-ward inside of that? The only other stuff in that conduit AFAIK is the wiring for the wingtip strobes and navigation lights.

 

AOG @ KRBD, prop strike

Seeking advice on repair shop options, etc.  Prop strike on a flight Sunday 20 Dec, AOG at KRBD (Dallas Executive / Redbird). It's a bad one, all three blades with significant leading-edge dents at various distances from the tips (but NOT the tips), mechanic already advised "No fly" based on photos via MMS (photos attached, hopefully). Likely facing an engine teardown inspection as well. I'm back home in the Austin area, and can easily drive or hitch a ride back up there, but I don't know people or shops in the area. Several people have mentioned Force Aviation on the field, but I haven't talked to them yet, only insurance and the airport authority. I'm using Savvy for assistance, but would love to hear advice from the DFW area RV community as well, and from pilots who've experience a similar situation.

Since y'all are probably dying to know what happened, here it is: I don't know. The prop was fine at KRYW -- I always do a visual and tactile prop check as the first item in pre-flight. There was other activity at my field, had to wait in line, but not close behind the airplane in front of me, and that guy never blasted me at any point. The flight was uneventful, nothing anomalous. Approach, landing, taxi were uneventful, shutdown normal. I never heard a strike, never felt anything, never saw an rpm drop, never experienced vibration. One airport employee and one FBO employee saw me taxi and park uneventfully. No jets were operating while I was running, at least that I was aware of, so likely no jet blast / debris potential. I discovered the damage during pre-flight after lunch at the cafe -- quite a shock. Everyone who's seen these photos so far has been stumped, said they've never seen anything like it except from a towbar, but that obviously wasn't involved. One blade is clearly dented worse than the others, with a fracture pattern behind the largest dent, but all blades have multiple dents of various sizes, leading edge only. There's no damage anywhere else on the aircraft that I, a friend, or an airport employee could find; nor blood/guts, nor paint marks on the prop, etc.

 

Sub Panel Mod for Radios Stack ...mfleming

-7 Slider sub panel modification to accommodate radio trays.

Because I'm just starting the wiring for the basic system (not avionics), I decided that the GTR-200B and GNX-375 trays should be installed. This will help in deciding wire routes as they are significant obstructions.

Searching VAF shows plenty of photos of the finished product, sub panels cut-out with angles installed to support the trays...

My conundrum is: How to make the incision in the sub panel accurately?
Can't find any information on this process.

I see many sub panels with the trays fitted precisely. My fear is butchering the sub panel or at least having a gaping hole.

My radio trays are fitted to the instrument panel in a way where the IP can't be fixed in place with the trays installed because the trays hit the sub panel...meaning with the instrument panel in place the trays can't be slid up to the sub panel for marking

Any hints on this process will be helpful.

 

Merry Christmas VAF and Van's Aircraft ....AX-O gets us started this year

 

Mothership Christmas Hours

 

 

December 23, 2020.  Issue #5,242. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Merry Christmas Groundtrack ...gator

 

Another Formation Video

Several nightshifts of work:

 

Tiny crack in fuselage skin, drill it or leave it ?

Good day, after rolling the mid side skin (F-1070) l observed a tiny crack above the relief notch, the crack is less than 1/16 of an inch long. Would you leave it as it is or drill a hole (1/16 or less) at the end of it ? Thanks in advance..

 

Oil Accumulator Burst

Moroso 1.5 qt Heavy Duty oil accumulator burst inflight. 100 Hrs in service.

Accumulator installed per installation instructions on engine mount Not on engine.

Upper cap sheared its threads and separated from body inflight. Immediate loss of all accumulator oil. Engine oil pressure was preserved by failsafe spring holding accumulator valve shut. Messy but not flight critical.

Returned to manufacturer for engineering investigation. Engineers ignored the helical remnants of sheared threads and pictures of safety wire keeping the cap from turning. Their conclusion was that the cap unscrewed and there is nothing deficient in design or manufacture.

I have put the accumulator back in service using steel plates on top and bottom of accumulator connected by four (4) 1/4-28 grade 8 threaded rods. I estimate this gives me a safe service pressure of over 500 psi.

My accumulator has temperature witness strips and so far has not exceeded 150 degrees surface temperature. Highest witnessed pressure while hot was 120 psi.

I am a retired aircraft accident investigator and without lab testing am fairly certain the threads suffered fatigue cycle failure and were improperly cut for full thread major diameter. This is just my opinion.

I am confident that my accumulator was not safe to operate the way it was received. Highly recommend not using this accumulator without reinforcing its end cap retention.

 

Dvalcik's Christmas Card

 

Flying videos are better than cat videos ...wjb (Bill Bencze RV-7)

Now that the plane's in phase 2, it's time to go places! This was my first trip into a "short" field ... 2600' (yes, not actually short, but is compared my roomy 5000' x 150' home field) .. no problem with the RV. Down and off by the mid field taxiway. Went with Pat, my RV7 brother from a few hangars down. A quick trip for Covid compatible coffee.

It was a stunning winter day in NorCal and I've been experimenting with a GoPro mounted under the right wing at the tie down point. Videos are pretty! The camera, however, has some occasional "vibration reduction artifacts" .. non-physical slewing of image as it locks/unlocks onto something while in a turn. I have the vibe reduction turned to the lowest non-off setting. Maybe off is better?

This is a short flight, < 15 min each way by the "long route" .. up the coast to Pacifica then inland and then skirt the newly configured SFO Bravo back south. The "short route" (up and over the hill direct) is probably 7 mins all told.

 

 

December 22, 2020.  Issue #5,241. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

My RV Weekend ...various



 

Dynon ADAHRS vibration

Hi all
I am having an issue with a vibration error message whenever I operate from a grass runway. I get an error message ADAHRS vibration when I am taxiing and on the T/O roll. The unit is mounted on two aluminium struts across the fuselage behind the baggage compartment bulkhead. This appears to be a common place for mounting them so I was wondering if anyone else has seen this problem and if anyone had taken steps to reduce the problem. My thoughts were to use some rubber mounts or sandwich some rubber washers between the unit and the struts.
Thanks for any suggestions

(riseric) Steve, I just installed the ADAHRS in that same location.  I believe it to be a very common area to install it.  I never heard of vibration issues before.  Hope like you to hear from the hive minds!!!

 

Classic Aero Closed 12/24 - 1/1

Classic Aero Designs Holiday Closure - 12/24 to 1/1

Just a heads up here. Anyone who will need our assistance through the end of the year, please give us a call Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday of this week. We will be closed Christmas Eve through New Years Day for a much needed break.
__________________
Luke Doughton
Classic Aero Designs

 

New Mothership First Flight Additions


 

Status ...arr RV10

My latest garage adventures:  Well underway with the tail cone and have all the appendages complete!

 

K1100-08 Nutplates

Has the shape of the K1100-08 nutplate changed? Mine all have the standard tabs on each side. They don't look like the drawing in the plans. On the left is a K1000-08 and on the right is a K1100-08. Nothing in my hardware reference looks like the K1100-08 that I have pictured. And what exactly does "Kaynar" refer to? Thanks

 

Heavy Wing Developed

I have owned my RV-4 for about 2 years and approx 400 hours now. The airplane now has around 1500 hours TT. The airplane had always flown great, very straight. A couple months ago I developed a heavy right wing. At 150-155kts IAS if I release the stick it will make a sharp departure to the right. At slower speeds, around 100kts IAS it is still noticeable, and at approach speeds it is much less, barely noticeable. My friends who are builders have told me to install an aileron trim tab, but that doesn't seem right to me as the airplane always flew straight before. I don't remember any hard or heavy landings that would've damaged anything. I've looked under the belly and down the wings, I see no buckled panels or indications of damage. The firewall does not appear damaged. Is there something you could recommend for me to check?

I had this issue once before and found that a screw on the top fairing around the stabilizer had come lose allowing the fairing to pull away from the aircraft. I tightened the screw and things went back to normal, nice and straight. I had hoped this was the issue again, but it was not unfortunately.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

 

December 21, 2020.  Issue #5,240. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Sunday in Texas

...at my home field.  I was fixing our constipated Roomba and saw this on the east side.  Had to get a pic with that blue sky.  Really nice here Sunday.  Hope same in your neck/woods.  dr

 

Thanks for the Proseal trick ...Trent Stewart (Australia)

Just a quick thank you to Scott McDaniels and Van's for the great fuel tank video.

It was released when I had only one rib to go on each tank but I thought I would try the fuel tube trick for applying Proseal on the shop heads. The only thing I did different was used a flared tube and since I had the sealant in a big syringe I just squeezed a little bit in the end of the tube each time.  -->

 

EZ - CLAMP ...HFS

Here's a little "tool" I made to help with the installation of Adel clamps in those hard to reach places inside the motor mount (and elsewhere)


 

Garmin Experimental Solutions Webinar - December 23rd, 2020 - 3PM Central

Greetings VAF!

I will be hosting a Garmin Experimental Solutions Webinar on Wednesday, December 23rd at 3:00 PM Central US Time. Here is a link to register.

The topic of discussion will be the G3X Touch system with all the accessories for installation in your RV. Just in case you weren't quite sure what you wanted to buy for Christmas this year, we will give you some great ideas! The webinar will be recorded, but registration is still required.

 

Cowling Crack Help

Hi guys,

Non-builder here looking for some guidance on what to do about some cracking along the lower cowl/scoop on my RV8. These forums have been a wealth of information for me.

Cracked started as a small line in the cowl, and is now growing and present on both sides.

No cracks on the inside of the cowl that I can see.

Is this an "inject with glue" kind of fix, or is it going to require something more invasive?

Searched and searched but couldn't find any posts relating to cracks around the scoop. I dont believe the actual scoop is separating. I had someone tell me it was a bondo that the builder had used to smooth out the curvature of the scoop to cowl.

Pics attached showing both sides. Smaller crack is forming on the left while larger is on the right.

 

New Dynon panel going into my -6a very soon ...Rob W

New Dynon panel going into my -6a very soon. I'm looking for suggestions/recommendations for final layout.

Also looking for recommendations for labeling. I an planning on doing a carbon fiber overlay on the panel and would like nice text.

 

Grass Strip in Eastern Va. ...William west of KMFV.

Here is my farm strip east of KMFV. That is my old RV-3 I sold last summer after I built my current -8. 1850' with clear approaches.

 

 

December 18, 2020.  Issue #5,239.
  Two milestone today - the first is I worked my 100th sim at the part time extra paper route.  In 5.7 months.  The RV-6 ABSOLUTELY helped get me this part time extra gig (Instrument, Commercial and the Phenoms use Garmin panels with similar architecture to my G3X).  Per their SCM award program I'm cashing in my 100 sessions for a PIC type rating course that will also be my ATP check ride (Jan/Feb '21 I hope).  Looking forward to both that and the possible, eventual extra scratch this could bring in for the fam.  Very grateful for the opportunity.
  As I was typing this (0927 local Thursday) an RV-14 flew over my house, out of 52F headed east.  Heard 'that sound we all know and love'.  A glance at Plane Finder on my phone showed the model.  Made me smile.
  Milestone #2 is much bigger news - the Tater got a 4.0 this semester at SMU (Chemistry).  Straight A's!!!!!  Up yours, 2020!  Up yours 2020 w/a red hot poker.  The Tate man is an inspiration to me....absolutely crushing it!!!
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
 
(Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

 

Jim/Jean Fisher RV-14A First Flight ...mothership


 

Ivan's Wedge Drilling Jig Setup ...RV-14A

Here is a picture of how I set up the Cleveland wedge drilling jig on my drill press. Takes the guess work out and set up correctly produced perfect result.


 

Pipe thread bottom wheel brake fitting ...RV-8

Q:   i have to replace a brake line on my rv-8, found the bottom pipe thread fitting loose, being a 90 degree angle part half a turn goes and hits the brake disk.  What a pain, will have to remove the wheel, the brake disk assembly just to tighten the fitting in the bottom. I was considering dremmeling the **** fitting and removing the elbow and adding an extension to the fitting to allow rotationl Anyone one else having the same problem?

A: The OP states that his bottom fitting is blocked by the brake disk.  I don't know about other brand of caliper fitting placement as I have Grove.  I have the straight fitting on the bottom, the 90* is on top and the brake disk doesn't interfere.  Maybe just switch the top and bottom???  And yes, don't forget the thread sealant !!!

 

"Stretching" Shrink Tubing

Here's a little tip when the shrink tube you are trying to use is just a "smidge" to small, but the next size up is too big.

You can (temporarily) "stretch" the tube with needle nose pliers - you have about ten seconds before it revertsAttachment 5806 to its original size.

Another tip is when the hose barb fitting you are trying to install is just a bit to small for a good seal when a clamp is applied. Shrink a piece of the appropriately sized shrink tube over the barb and then finish as usual.

YMMV


 

Milestone: Supertracks Installed ...Ryankhall RV-7

 

 

December 17, 2020.  Issue #5,238. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Road trip by Air ...joe_rainbolt

California to Tennessee via Idaho in our RV-7A, with all the trials and tribulations expected from a trip with minimal planning.
Note that the picture below shows VMC over the entire country which is rare, but I assure you that this is not what I experienced on this trip.

 

Oil Cooler Shutter Mods ...Scott Hersha

I thought I would discuss some modifications I made to my oil cooler installation on my RV4, and see if I can get some recommendations or opinions on how to operate my airplane in the winter relative to engine oil temps.  -->


 

Alternator bracket ...spadman94

I have an RV-9A with the Lyc O-320-B2C (160 hp). The alt failed, and when I went to remove it, I saw that one of the tabs of the alt bracket was broken. The bracket is made up of two "L"-shaped brackets, one almost twice as long as the other, rather than the "U"-shaped brackets I'm more familiar with. The two "L" brackets slide over each other to allow for various-sized alternators, and are attached to the crankcase with four bolts.

Does anyone have a part number for this bracket or know where I could get one? Any help wud be greatly appreciated. Thanx.

 

Orlando KORL to Los Angeles KWHP ...AV8ER's RV Weekend

Decided to load up the wife and kids in the trusty RV-10 and head to grandma's house. Endured dust in west Texas (to approx 9,000 feet), 50 knot headwind, and 6 hours of actual IMC. We planned on flying the "northern" route but low level freezing layer and lots of weather caused us to re-route to the "southern" route.

 

Whiteman Airport (KWHP)

City council wants to close it.  Story / Petition to Save.  Not a RV-specific topic so I offered to post it up here as a favor.  v/r,dr

 

Spark Plug Diagnosis

In the middle of my annual. Take a look at my plugs. I chock it up to the front cylinders running much cooler than the back. Any other explanations out there?

 

A David Lee Production

Our 52F buddy David Lee (RV-10 builder) was in his car on the ramp filming as I landed into a 39*F north wind the other day after a short 18 minute hop.  It always surprises me how steep the approach can be once you get it all stabilized and trimmed in cold air.  I prefer a little altitude on short final above those trees, not dragging it in, hence the side slip there at the end.

Thanks to David for the short vid.  Commercial free and no interruptions <g>.

 

 

December 16, 2020.  Issue #5,237.
  Pls excuse the early push - late sim Tue and prefer not to have to sit down at the keyboard after midnight <g>. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)
 

SL-00033 for RV-10: Request field inspection of main gear weldments and floor panels

(Mothership)
Van's has published a Service Letter for the RV-10, SL-00033, which asks owners at their convenience to inspect and submit findings to Van's related to the condition of two components: the main landing gear weldments, and the forward cabin floor panels.

The Van's factory prototype RV-10 (serial number 1) developed cracks in the locations described in the letter. This aircraft is frequently used off-airport, off-pavement, and for extensive transition training. Our purpose here is to collect data from the field to determine the extent to which the same issue may or may not appear in other RV-10 aircraft.

Note that there is no specified requirement nor timeframe in which the inspection described in the letter needs to be completed. We would, however, very much appreciate timely reports from all owners of flying RV-10 aircraft.  -->

 

Getting Started

So, after a full year of researching, watching 1,000 build videos, reading section 5 (twice), as well as (what seemed like) 10,000 posts, articles, and books, attending a Synergy build class, finishing a home remodel, converting my garage to a workshop, purchasing tools, and practicing my riveting, I finally ordered my empennage kit and QB wings and fuse kits today! I'm super excited to get started but also feel like I'm just starting the learning process. I'll be back here for help... a lot!
__________________
Shaun
RV-8 (Hopeful)

 

Glass panel for slider

Okay, it's been years since I've been active but finally bit the bullet and bought my avionics from Stein. No I can sure use your fine folks help. Attached are some photos of my panel. I'm looking for some ideas on where and how to mount the boxes onto the sub panel. The plane has a slider canopy, so I'll have big holes to access the avionics.

I also have a GTR 20 (remote mount), and a GTX45 (remote mount).

I've scoured the web and the site to glean some info, but it's kinda of hit/miss.

Any assistance is appreciated,

Joe


 

Landing Light Retrofit PIREP ...fixnflyguy

What I did:  When I made my cut-outs, I'm not sure Duckworks or other options were around...my cut-outs are huge in comparison, and I was copying the installation a couple other locals had used. I fabricated my own lenses, and built all the internal bracketry. I have simple halogen driving lights in mine, one aligned as "Taxi" and one as "Landing". They work OK, but I plan to do an LED upgrade one day. Mine are in the outboard bay, as its simple to get to with the wingtip removed , although I can also access by removing the lens.

 

Q: RV-14A unusable fuel?

What are folks getting for unusable fuel quantity in 14A tanks?

A:  Not much.  Jeff,  this is how much I drained from a tank after I intentionally ran it dry during phase 1. Mine is a -14 but I don't suppose it matters since the tanks are identical. Yes, that's water in the bottle now.

 

Lycoming Flywheel Starter Ring Gear Teeth

I think my starter ring gear teeth need braces or something...

My STech starter has been making some strange noises so I investigated the flywheel and attached is a picture of what the teeth look like.

It looks like the starter has run along the side of the ring gear instead of meshed with the gear correctly.

The starter teeth look great.

The engine is a Lycoming and it has about 15 hours since overhaul from a reputable shop and I did not notice that the teeth looked damaged when I put the engine back on and I had to install the flywheel during the process.

The airplane also had an annual condition inspection since the overhaul and I remember the A&P specifically looking at the teeth and he did not notice anything.

So now I am wondering if this ring gear is still serviceable.

If not does the ring gear get removed and replaced on the existing flywheel?

If I need a new flywheel will that affect my engine balance? I know the connecting rods were static balanced but I do not know about the crankshaft and flywheel assembly.

What could have caused this? There does not seem too much that I could have done wrong and the overhaul shop was the one that installed the starter and they ran the engine on the stand a number of times.

Any help/ advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Running pitot tubing on finished airplane? ...fl-mike PIREP

Where there's a will, there's a way.

I'm assuming you already have the first holes for running wiring and such opened up and bushing installed, however, if not:

My 6A project didn't have any lights, so I had to open up the tooling holes. Two pieces of 1/4-20 all-thread, one coupler, one coupler modified by drilling to 1/4" (halfway), and adding a side setscrew to hold the 1/2" unibit. I sleeved the all-thread to protect the drilled holes as I progressed. Go slow from each end (if the wing is off), flashlight and guide as necessary to hit the tooling hole, and consider yourself lucky that you have more than one inspection panel!

 

My RV Weekend ...esco

Canopy Install.   Between Bruce Swayze and Bruce Hill, I had lots of great information, examples, tips, and answers to my many questions when I was making the decision to use SikaFlex.  Thanks very much, gents, for sharing your photos and narrative.

 

Leaking Exhaust Slip Joint

I've flown my RV-14A five times so far and have seen somewhat consistent, but minor, fluid leakage out of the #2 exhaust slip joint (1st pic below). The substance blows out of the joint and a little gets on the cowl, but most of it leaks down the pipe. I found one other thread on the issue and it seems like it could be just a misshaped pipe that isn't sealing quite right. If so, my plan would be to get a pipe expander to make sure the pipes fit well. Different thoughts here? Is it oil?

My first few flights have gone fine, other than my #2 cylinder running a little hot as compared to the others (2nd pic). Stabilized CHTs end up with about a 70 degree spread between #2 and #1/3 (390 vs 320). Could the higher temperature for #2 be related to the slip joint leak somehow? Thanks for the help.

 

Stick grip ...Roadjunkie1 reply in a thread

I have an Infinity grip that I really like. It fits my hand perfectly. I have it slightly rotated counter-clockwise to fit how my hand rests better. All of the the buttons are functional but two: the pinky (blue), lower thumb (black). The "china hat": forward: transponder ident; starboard: radio frequency list change; port: switch frequency; back: transponder code swap. Red: port landing light; green: starboard taxi light. Trigger: PTT.

That has been the setup for 1200+ hours and have never had an inadvertent frequency change or transponder code issue. My radio beeps when the frequency is changed which wound be a hint that that has happened. And I like having that feature on the "china hat". That has a pretty large "throw" and one has to be moving it purposefully to make it work.

I would "stick" with the grip you have. You will come up with functions for the remainder of the buttons. Or just leave them. You will like the grip as you fly. Besides the fact that they look pretty cool! I frequently use the black button to arm the Sidewinders and the blue pinky to fox them off......

Attached is a photo of my panel from years ago. The mEncoder has been replaced by a Dynon. The Trimble GPS is being replaced with an iFly. The rest is the same and I really like that panel.....

 

 

December 15, 2020.  Issue #5,236. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

My RV Weekend ....various



 

Mark Wyss DIY Tug

I built mine in a short morning. It worked great. Then I went flying.

 

Forced Rebuild of RV6-A "Alice" ...Zach

The history - I used to work at my local airport and knew of an RV6A slowly dying in a hangar. The owner stopped flying it and it sat for the last 8 years at least. I decided to purchase it (for a killer steal of a deal!) and set about making it airworthy once again....I spent about 2 months getting it ready: new fluids, complete lube of all moving parts, removed a cylinder from the 0320 and borescoped - all looked good. First time engine start was great - no issues. Flew it for the first time in 8 years and had an RV grin that everyone talks about. First time in a 6! Flew it a lot for the first 2 weeks and really loved it. I put around 10 hours on it and disaster struck - engine out over the beach at 1500 feet with no options. Long story short, picture perfect off airport landing on the beach until the nosewheel dug in and we flipped. Both wingtip skins were damaged along with the empennage. Fuse somehow was undamaged except for the sliding canopy.

The project - I purchased a kit for repair parts from a local that gave up after finishing all but the fuselage. Wings, tail surfaces, control surfaces all completed and crated....almost like a gift from the man himself. I have removed all the damaged surfaces and am in the process of attaching my new parts.

Ill try to keep this up to date and post some pictures. I am hoping my new Vans family can keep my spirits up, never had an engine let me down before.

Today's progress:

 

Old vs New Vans resistive fuel,level sender

I have an early slow build RV-6 with the "old" style SW level sensors (see pic).

The one from my left tank is no longer functioning properly and will have to be be replaced. Can I assume the "new" SW sender from vans (IE F-385B) is a drop-in replacement (mechanically and electrically compatible) ?

Anyone done this replacement/upgrade and have any advice? Any operational concerns with senders of different vintage in the two tanks?
(I am prepared for the Proseal mess to come - mostly just want to be sure the new sender will bolt up, the float will swing appropriately, and gauge readings will be approximately correct.)

 

 

December 14, 2020.  Issue #5,235. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Batting A Thousand

(Mel Asberry Milestone)  "Just a note to let you know that I did my 1,000th airworthiness certification today on a Legend Cub at Sulphur Springs.  Below is a picture of my FAA Supervisor presenting me with an award in front of the 1,000th aircraft."  [ed. Mel did my RV-6 inspection.  Many congrats Mel!!!!  v/r,dr]


 

Backcountry Santa ...Steve (6A)

On Thursday, 12/10, 42 airplanes departed from Salt Lake Int'l, KSLC, or their nearby home airport to deliver food, toys, clothing, and other necessities to the Navajo Nations in southeast Utah.
Those airplanes able to land on dirt strips flew their cargo to either Montezuma Creek airport or Navajo Mountain airport. Both airports are on the Navajo reservation and are private strips. The other option was to fly to Blanding Municipal, KBDG, and transfer your load to one of the planes shuttling boxes to the other two strips.
I and the 2 other RVs signed up to deliver 150 pounds of goods to Blanding. In the name of safety, the organizers reduced the requested weight by 20 percent. The Cessnas were loaded with 300+ pounds and the Kodiak and big twins were loaded up with much more. The safety of all involved was kept paramount. There were daily email weather updates and even a YouTube safety video briefing 2 days prior.

 

Sean Blair RV-7 Progress Shots

My wife, Tracey, and I continuing with wiring. Cleco the wonder dog cheering us on!

 

Scoring inside Cylinders 2 & 4

I just had a pre-buy inspection done on an RV-12. I am pretty new to the aviation world and just want some feedback on this. Here are some things I'd love some opinions on:

1. scoring on upper cylinder walls of 2 and 4
2. engine driven fuel pump replacement past due
3. will need all rubber replaced soon

Avgas has been used primarily and the plane has about 400 hrs TT on it. Any feedback is appreciated!

The primary purpose of getting an airplane is to build hours. I want to get 1200 hours asap!

 

Did I just destroy my vertical stabilizer skin?

For whatever reason, I thought it was ok to dimple this hole with the DRDT-2 clamped to my table positioned UNDER the height of the table and skin. Needless to say, I goofed.

I've seen a couple of solutions here for people that have had similar hiccups, but I'd like to see what you guys think of mine.

I put a 3 and a 4 rivet next to the hole for size reference, and the third picture is the backside of the skin. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

Removing main gear leg fairing

I'm in the process of upgrading all the hoses on my RV9A that I purchased 3 years ago. Yesterday I attempted to remove the main gear leg fairings to replace the aluminum tubing brake lines with TS Flightlines brake lines. What I found appears to be fairings that are formed around the legs with no seam to remove them now. They are rock solid on the leg and appear to be filled with foam. The pic is from the floor skyward. I cannot find a wire attaching to a piano hinge. Anyone have advice for removing these without destroying the fairings and having to make new ones? If I do have to make new ones, is this a big job for a novice? Would the intersecting fairings have to be made over as well? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Chafing can kill you

Dear Builders,
Please take chafing serious. During conditional inspection, we are finding things that are darn scary. Scat tube, left unfettered can cut deep into softer metals.

The links below are to photos in my google drive. All photos are from my recently purchased RV-10.


 

David Paule RV-3B Status Report

The main latch bars are now drilled through the frame to the fuselage. Since these photos were taken, I bonded brass bushings in to the frame, but that's still in progress.

Here's the latch shown open (the cam is not installed at this time):

 

 

December 11, 2020.  Issue #5,234.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)
 

Lake Tahoe Sunset Flight ...climberrn

Decided to take an evening flight with my wife around Lake Tahoe. Ended up being a beautiful sunset.

 

Coutersinking the RV-10 trailing edge wedge ...Don Coady PIREP

The setup I used on the rudder trailing edge. Made a "fence" from some of the scrap aluminum pieces sent with the kit.

 

Pouring Stuff While Rolling

The COVID lockdown was a good time for me to contemplate on some profound questions of life, like where did the universe come from? What is the purpose of life? And most importantly, is it possible to pour water upside down while rolling the airplane?



 

Mark Wyss DIY Tug

"My hangar neighbor has one of those 5 grand tank tread radio controlled tugs.  Call it my RV tug grin when I pull out my 4 with this little gem. Owe the design to another VAF contributor. Let's see... recycled Jazzie power chair wheels and motors (Ebay), recycled plywood from an old workbench, two way momentary switch for forward and reverse, 12 v car battery castoff from my wife's Volvo and a non reliable Odyssey battery for 24 total volts and some other odds and ends. Drum roll......$ 92.78.  Massive power and I still have $ 4,907.22 to spend at SteinAir."

 

Fuel problems

The fuel pressure running the mechanical pump varies between 22 and 26 psi in a 1 second interval. Is this normal or a bad relief valve ? Looks pretty nervous.
When switching the E pump on the reading is very stable 28 psi.
I purchased the 10 a year ago and it was like this all the time.

Another problem is occasional short pressure drops to zero only when flying 5000 ft and higher. Pressure return immediately but the Garmin lady starts shouting.
This happens 2-3 times an hours and makes me nervous.
The relation to altitude makes me suspect the sensor.

Any thoughts?

 

On the Mothership

 

 

December 10, 2020.  Issue #5,233.
  Pls excuse the early push - extra evening paper route.  Today at Whataburger the guy behind the counter said, "I don't mean to offend you, but I can give you a senior citizen medium drink.  You don't have to pay for one if you don't want to."  Bald and wearing a mask I guess I look older.  "Son, you could never offend me offering a free drink."  Of course the usual suspects in line behind me all squinted and made their wrinkles stand out behind their masks so they could get free stuff too.  It worked. ;^)
  Reminded me of that joke:  Do you know how copper wire was invented?  Two pilots got into a fight over a penny.
  (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)


Off the Surface for a Bit

... a .4 Wednesday morning.  Pretty much every RV in the area was flying.  00000KT and CAVU in N.TX.  Rare and much appreciated.  dr


Full size

 

RE: Heater Muff RV-14 ...rvbuilder2002

"We have noted a lack of longevity of the heat muff end ribs and it is currently being looked at by engineering.  More info when I have it.

In the mean time, be sure to do a thorough exhaust system inspection during each condition inspection in accordance with AC43.13 Appendix D."

 

Milestone: Painted....stenson46

Only 7 years but finally got her painted.  Waiting on the wheel pants but she's looking good.

 

DIY RV-12 Cold Air Barrier ...Cyclone

 

Seen At Our Airport

Radio controlled tug for a C-180.  Apparently around $5K.  Wow.  dr


Full size

 

Drawing of Don's RV-7 Rotisserie ...Don Panier

Drawing shows the rotator attaching to the four engine mount bolts, I did deviate from my drawing and welded small tabs (.125" x 1.5" flat stock) to the 2" x 2" angle to widen about 1" as the angles interfered with the engine mount.

 

What do you want to see for Garmin training at OSH?

Hey everyone!

For my day job, I'm a classroom instructor for Garmin Aviation Product Support. It's that time of year again when we start thinking ahead to our training for Oshkosh. I just thought I'd reach out and see which topics you'd like us to cover for avionics installation and maintenance for homebuilts. Our sessions run about 45 minutes each and ideally we do 2 per day (Mon-Sat) at the show. I can't wait to get back to the training tent and try to talk over those tenacious Aeroshell T-6s again... Seriously!

Topics we've previously covered include avionics tools, Garmin documentation, G3X system components & architecture, GPS navigator (GTN) & transponder interface, autopilot tuning, and CAN bus wiring. What else would you like to know about planning, installing, wiring, configuration, and testing/troubleshooting? Please let me know in this thread. I'm in the idea-gathering phase right now and could use your brainstorming power. If you have ideas for training on G3X operation, please let me know that as well, and I'll forward them over to our pilot training crew.

Thank you all!
Katie

 

December Dust Devils ...Vlad

 

 

December 9, 2020.  Issue #5,232. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Don's Rotisserie

A bit more involved than the Harbor Freight engine unit but it allowed completing the underside of the engine and painting of the fuselage.
Constructed from one 4 x 8 sheet of plywood and two fixed roller casters.

 

My RV Weekend ...Rod Woodard

I flew my RV-3 to breakfast on both Saturday and Sunday this past weekend. The second picture was taken by a friend's wife from their Bonanza. I was running a little late for breakfast and they were coming home while I was headed towards the restaurant. I saw them on ADSB and intercepted them. We chatted back and forth and he asked me to snuggle up so his wife could take a pic.

The first pic is from today and I just thought it was cool. I live at a residential airpark and we've had a bit of petty crime lately. I recently installed a few security cameras for an added layer of security. My Ramp-Cam caught me headed to lunch in the RV-3.

 

Wing Tip issue ...Tony RV-10

Curious question.

Van's, shipped me a couple to parts (903 and 904's) for the elevator wing tips. These parts had been previously fluted and dimpled. They did not have the customary blue plastic protective coating. Not really concerned about that, but I have spend a lot of time trying to get them to fit, and cannot.

Given the fluting and dimpling in them, it 'looks' like maybe they had been worked on by another builder and returned to vans previously? Already fluted and dimpled? surely they aren't shipped that way as a standard.

has anyone else received elevator wing tip parts fluted and dimpled from the factory?? Anyone else have issues with them aligning with the holes in 913??

 

Mothership First Flight Reports Added


 

Heater Muff/Exhaust Heads Up! ...Bill Marvel RV-14A

I discovered a problem with one of the heat muffs on my -14A today. Actually, the heat muff was only part of the problem, which also involved the exhaust system. As a data point, the airplane has 700 hours on it.

I thought that both muffs fit tightly enough on the exhaust pipe when I installed them. They are held in place by bendable tabs. Today I noticed that the tabs on the inside diameter of one of the end plates on a muff had worn off. The resulting sharp edge had cut a groove into the exhaust pipe around a portion of its circumference.

I did not measure the depth of the cut but it is very definitely noticeable. I just ordered replacement end plates for both muffs and will pull the assembly apart tomorrow to have a better look at it. There may be damage to the exhaust pipe under the other three end plates but I only noticed this one in the limited time I had.

This is an area you may want to pay attention to as it is not very noticeable and could create some exhaust pipe damage before you see it. And clearly, an exhaust pipe leak into a heater muff is not a good situation.

I don't now how tightly the end plates are supposed to grasp the exhaust pipe, but certainly I intend to bend the tabs sufficiently to tighten up that joint when I install the new parts. It would be be an improvement if the end plates were designed such that they could be attached rigidly to the exhaust pipe with a hose clamp instead of via a friction fit based on how you bend the tabs.

 

Sibirsky's RV9A (possibly up for sale soon)


 

 

December 8, 2020.  Issue #5,231. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Mr. X Dropping Off Somebody Somewhere

...and brought his cap.  Looks tropical......and warm.  Not a bad location for a turnaround.


(about the charity cap)

 

My RV Weekend ...various

(SPX) Today Jeana suggested that we go fly for a late lunch, so we did! Left home and headed to Montgomery Field (KMYF) to enjoy lunch. I am glad that we did too, since restaurants close here for 3+ weeks starting tomorrow, due to Covid. So, it's nice to support the businesses while we can.

While eating lunch, Jeana asked if we could fly over downtown, so we did. I figured since we were so close I'd stop at Brown Field (KSDM) to get some fairly inexpensive fuel ($3.49). Now it was 4:30 PM, so it was time to head home..

So, back over downtown San Diego to the hangar, just as the sun was setting. Added bonus was that I got to test out my new Flyleds lights, which I love. The airplane now has flyleds wing nav and strobe, tail strobe, as well as landing and taxi lights. Kind of feels like a flyleds billboard, but I'm hard to miss...
 

(bill.hutchison) Opened up my cowl for the first time since I bought the airplane to try and look for the source of what I think is a very small oil leak. I haven't dropped the lower cowl yet to trace further but getting in there with the eyeball and the endoscope makes me think it's coming from the prop governor. Will know more in the next day or so - ran out of time to keep looking.


 

(BillL) I got night current with three airports, landings/TO and RNAV approaches(VFR). Sorry no pictures, but a bit of high clouds and not much to see. First night flight since paint and discovered the shop did an excellent job on the landing light aiming. The Baja Sport lights with half dispersion/half clear lenses are fantastic. orienting the dispersion lens for a vertical dispersion seems to work well on the pilot side.

 

DECEMBER IS PLEDGE DRIVE MONTH:

  2020 has been a yard sale in terms of both shit and storm to anyone running a small business, and as a 1-person business VAF is right there in the middle of the steaming pile that this year is.  I've flown our RV-6 exactly (12.1) hrs this year to date and have been working a side job in the evenings and on weekends (and exploring more options) to keep up with bills.  Some advertisers have had to back out due to their own cash shortfalls.  We're all hurting.
  If you're one of those daily readers of VAF who doesn't think a donation matters, and that I'm giving Jeff Bezos a run for his money, I'd beg ask you to reconsider and go read the donate page.  If you used the VAF classifieds and sold something for a thousand dollars with no hassle, maybe throw me a tiny thanky via PayPal (you can point your camera app at the little QR square top left).  Painless.  I'm telling ya, it really matters this year.
  If you've already sent in an honor system donation in 2020, thank you for helping me keep VAF afloat, a roof over my head and our family fed.  If you haven't, please at least read this.
  Sorry for the commercial.  v/r, (Need a contract pilot?)

 

Dave Macdonald's RV-10 Panel

my Garmin equipped RV-10 panel. I realized in looking at today's posts of RV-14 panels that I still hadn't posted a pic of mine.

I worked with Jason and Aerotronics on the layout and then had them cut the panel. They also supplied most of the hardware for the panel (switches, Garmin avionics, breakers, etc.). Jason and his team were very easy to work with and very responsive. I highly recommend them.

I created the wiring diagrams and then built the harnesses and wired the panel. So far I have been very happy, but am still on a learning curve with all the G3X and GTN capabilities.

 

I completed the SB-00027 RV-14A nose gear modification today ...Amazon-1

I expected this to be worse then it turned out to be. I would say the total time (including removing/reinstalling the cowling) was < 2 hours. I had one helper which made the job much easier but I think I could have done it by myself in a pinch.

Key ideas:

I weighed down the tail with two buckets of landscaping pebbles to take the weight of the nose gear. I then completely removed the nose gear leg to do the cuts. This required a small amount of effort to move the exhaust out of the way.

I used a 7/8" bimetal hole cutter from Milwaukee Tools to do most of the cutting. I used a Rockwell F80 oscillating tool to straighten the edges and a Dremel tool with a rotary sanding head to clean it all up.

I used both the bigger washer and the heavier duty cup on top of the shock absorber though I couldn't tell the difference between the old cup and the new one (other than the $25 it cost me to buy the new one from Van's).

I properly annotated my aircraft log book to reflect that the SB was complete.

 

Simon Hitchen's Wingtip Camera Setup

I used the existing holes in the outboard skin/wing tip and made some aluminium mounts to hold the carbon fibre tubes. The 4 mounts are shaped to the curvature of the wing and have the existing tinnerman washers underneath them so they don't touch the paint. Easily removable. The go pro is controllable from the flight deck. All in all it was a few hours work.


 

Smoke/Fumes and smell in cockpit

Hey guys,

So I've been dealing with this issue for quite a while. I finally got my RV-10 flying a couple months ago with a fun set of issues that I have to deal with on a daily basis. I've finally been narrowing things down but theres one that no matter what I do the problem persists.

A few flights ago after I landed, there was smoke in the cockpit. It was most definitely (at least at the time) determined to be electrical smoke. No fire came of it. I shut off the batteries and taxied to the hangar. The smoke went away and I started to look for anything that would be causing the issue.

Long story short, I've pulled apart the center tunnel (A pain in the *** in my plane), the side panels, under the seats, and even the baggage bulkhead to find the source of the smoke. Just today I left my high suspect access panels off as well as my autopilot panel (GNC 307 sits right above my circuit breakers/bus bar and can see where I was originally suspect of the bus bar coming into contact with the carbon fiber).

I went and flew, and nothing. The smell was still there, but the smoke wasn't very apparent. Its driving me crazy. So I called Aerotronics, my avionics dealer, and asked them for some troubleshooting tips. Obviously my airplane is my airplane and I'm the only one who knows exactly where every wire run is but I needed some other opinions. After an hour or so troubleshooting and this flight, my avionics guy suggested the possibility it wasn't electrical. He suggested the possibility that the electric fuel boost pump was getting hot enough if I left it on too long that it could be burning off the preservative oil that it came in the bag with.

I couldn't see anyone else in a search having smoke or smells due to this issue. The thing that baffles me is I ONLY ever see smoke when I land the plane (fuel pump on). And in flight the smoke would escape through any holes in the plane it can fly due to low pressure outside.

Anyway, I think thats most of the essential information I can give.

Anyone else have this (the fuel pump burning preservative oil off) issue?

I hate that I cant definitively find the issue and know what it is.

Thanks in advance

 

Getting Closer ...Jeff Parker RV-8

 

 

December 7, 2020.  Issue #5,230. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Loving That Winter Performance ...Simon Hitchen

Keep on building, no matter how long it takes...totally worth it!

 

Van's RV Fuel Tank Construction Tips ....Mothership Video

(Greg) "It includes information and tips that can't really be covered in the plans but which we can show in this format. The primary focus of this video is effective and proper sealing while assembling.

Scott McDaniels from our prototype shop and I spent a few days filming, and the resulting 2.5 hours contains a lot of good info in terms of the how's and why's that matter most to Scott when he's building a fuel tank. It's great contextual info for folks to have before they start their own tank builds.

It's a longer video, and we can't cover every tank topic in this one, but we broke it up into "chapters" that you can click to jump around if you like. The most useful nuggets of "pro" info are interspersed throughout the narration of the process as Scott completes the tank, so for people who are looking at starting the process, I'd suggest setting aside some time to watch it all the way through, then use the chapters to go back and review if needed. We hope this is useful!"

0:00 Introduction
1:26 Overview, prep and assembly tips
7:26 Tank sealing philosophy
11:02 Flange install, basic techniques
33:53 Installing Stiffeners
43:05 Prep rib
56:45 Install rib
1:23:53 Outboard end rib
1:42:44 Inboard end rib
1:47:35 Fittings
1:50:28 Rear baffle intro
1:54:49 Baffle wall sealant
2:09:48 Install baffle wall
2:22:13 Z-bracket install
2:35:29 Conclusion/Wrap-Up

 

I now own a -4! ...00Dan

I went through with it yesterday - I am now the proud owner of a 1988 -4. Short legs, original wheel pants, and a Great American prop. A real blast from the past compared to the newer kits.

As always I have tons of new owner questions. I had started another thread regarding landing light installs and got some great answers.

I believe the prop is a Great American 70 x 74". On a 150 hp -320 it's making 2050 static, 2200 on takeoff/climb, and spins up to just over 2700 at 8000' FT. It seems pretty cruise biased. Anyone have experience with this prop? I haven't done full cruise performance testing yet (the previous owner usually flew with it pulled back so he didn't have good numbers on upper end performance).

Is a modern prop worth the squeeze? I know pressure recovery wheel pants are good value and those are on the list.

Is the swivel tailwheel from Van's any good, or should I consider one of the aftermarket forks? Pushing the non-castering wheel into my hangar is always fun.

I have to weigh it for myself but the W&B I have shows 943# empty at 60.64". I ran some sample calculations and I'm definitely at the rear CG limit with a couple of my buddies and no bags. What would be the best way to put some weight on the nose?

I'll post more questions as I think of them.

 

New Member Intro

Introducing myself as a prospective RV-9 builder. Currently in a partnership in an KFME based TB20, but looking to move into homebuilding. If any on the forum would like to chat about your project, I would welcome the benefit of your experience. Thanks! Steve Riker (PhantomRO161 at gmail)

 

(3) Aerotronics Customers Post Pics of Their Panels


 

VFR Night Flight ...Sibirsky

I flew my RV9A to Toledo OH this past Sunday, this was my first official long solo night flight , the original plan was to fly to Minneapolis from Brookhaven NY , night stop at Toledo Express then continue in the morning to St Paul / Minneapolis , my first fuel stop was Williamsport PA, KIPT , which im sure most of you know ( Lycoming County ) .

I took off at 16:00 local time , which was roughly one and a half hours before the beginning of night and darkness , the overall flight was smooth , eventless , the aircraft and equipment performed very well except for some ADSB out and GPS issues , autopilot flew it all the way until I was over the airport , which I only saw in my GPS and I couldn't visually identify and I didn't even see the airport beacon.

The approach controller asked if I had the airport in sight , I looked again I saw lights which I thought was the airport , I honestly wasn't sure , I was hesitant , however I told the controller I have it in sight , he handed me off to the tower , the tower asked me to report turning final runway 12 , I flew for 3 minutes past the airport then turned around to 120 degrees. , I still wasn't sure if I had the airport in sight , I was looking at what looked like REIL's and headed there for landing , I genuinely thought I had the runway , but again I wasn't 100% sure , when I looked at the charts earlier I saw the highest obstacle was 700feet so I decided to keep it at a 1000 , sure enough when I got closer to those red lights , it turned out I was heading to two giant towers , made a shallow left turn then I saw the runway to my left , it was very confusing , but I learned not to ever land anywhere at night before having the runway in sight , especially if you go to an airport with older equipement and dimmed lights , landing was uneventful , refueled , took a breath , then continued to Toledo.  continue

 

My RV Weekend ...varous

 

Shed Hunting ....Vlad

Perfect weather it's calm and temperature is in upper teens. Let's go shed hunting! No not the plastic sheds from Home Depot let's look for the antlers Rudolf drops every year.

One of my honey holes is close (40 min hike) to a county road. I was lucky to meet a grader operator on that hill in the spring he promised to take a good care of that stretch. And he did.

 

Resuming work ...Paul in Australia

It has been a while since I posted an update and I have been making progress on some other projects, but not so much on the poor old RV.

In June, that was 6 months ago, I completed most of the drilling and fitting of the belly skins, and started on fitting the two forward side skins. I had pre-drilled the skeleton and then planned to back drill through the skins. This worked out well for maintaining edge distances, but some of the floor and baggage ribs had obstructions and this got a bit fiddly. There were some other things on the farm that needed attention (as always) so I had a break from the RV for a while.

I've now picked up again where I Ieft off and completed drilling on the left side skin. It took most of a day to "make holes for rivets" as my wife describes this task. It was convenient to fit some of the clecos from the inside and they seem to hold just as well.

Next step will be the other side skin, and then trimming and forming the compound curve where the fuselage narrows behind the baggage compartment. I am leaving the trimming as late as possible to try and get the best fit.

 

Milestone: Panel Complete!  ...Sibirsky

 

 

December 4, 2020.  Issue #5,229.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  (Need a contract pilot?)
 

Seen From the Air (Quirky things seen thread) ...Vlad

Flying from Factory Butte UT toward Escalante National Monument saw this weird circles.

 

F-874 Rudder Blocks ...Scotty G RV-8

Hi, guys,

I've come to find that my left F-874 rudder slide block (or whatever it's called) came out of its location on the left rudder pedal.

I looked at the plans (I'm not a builder) and see there are supposed to be bolts in the blocks, too. Well, mine doesn't have them.

I stuffed my considerable body down there since my seats and floor panels are off and tried to put it back in. Well, I placed it *near* its position, but it's not exactly where it should be. The left rudder pedal won't slide back towards aircraft center into place. The block stays put, but I don't think it's snapped into place.

Yes, the rudders do move through their travel just fine. They also adjust fore and aft, too.

So... What's the secret to getting the block into place and secured with the bolts? If you say, "This is done when the rudder pedal assembly is out of the aircraft," I'll have to start drinking again. And if you say, "Find a smaller person to do it," I already know that part. LOL

Photo of right side for comparison.

Thanks in advance, I appreciate any input.  --> (more pics)

 

Q: Retrofit sensor manifold to RV6

Ok - My RV6 is kinda old (1992) - time to give it some real engine instrumentation.

Thinking no reason I can't install a Vans VA-168 3 port sensor manifold to mount fuel and oil pressure sensors. Doesn't look like it will care if firewall is on a 6 and not a 14.

Bit confused on hoses though. I have an O-320. Looks like a VA-102 for engine to manifold fuel pressure line but unclear if VA-133 or VA-1119 for oil pressure line?

Anyone done this and can clarify, would be great!

Thanks.

A: (bjdecker) Contact Tom @ TSFlightlines and have him make you a set of hoses -- custom length, size, etc.

I mounted all three transducers (MAP, OIL P, FUEL P) to the VA-168, bolted to firewall at the location specified in the OP-27 drawing.

 

Reported on the Mothership

 

Intermittent Rough Engine

Hi, All:

I've searched the forums and haven't been able to find a solution to my problem - hoping for some insight.

I purchased an RV-7A about a year ago. O360 with dual Lightspeed ignition. Normally it starts up and runs beautifully, and if it does it runs like a top for the duration of the flight.

Occasionally it starts rough, and CHT on #1 doesn't come up, so appears to be that cylinder. If I do a hot start procedure to clear the cylinders and let it sit for a minute, it will usually start up w/o problems. If it starts rough, it never switches to clean. If it's running rough, isolating the 'mags' (it's Lightspeed electronic ignition) has zero effect on how it runs, so I don't think it can be a bad coil.

During the hot months here in Texas (500' MSL), if I go full power with full mixture on the initial takeoff roll, then it can switch from clean to rough but never on touch and go's. Last weekend I forgot to enrich the mixture before doing a runup, and it switched to rough. Again, if it's rough, I have to do a shutdown and wait a bit to restart for it to start clean.

I've replaced the spark plug wires, the plugs, and intake hoses. The builder completed the plane in about 2010, and it has 400 hours since then. He said it did do this occasionally before I purchased it (I knew this was an issue when I bought it).

It's only sometimes a problem, and so far it's never switched to rough running when I'm in the air, but that of course is my worry.

 

 

December 3, 2020.  Issue #5,228. (Need a contract pilot?)

Armrest for the RV-8 ...seen at Monk's yesterday

I like that it's pop riveted on right where the builder would need it.  dr


(enlarge)


(enlarge)

 

Ball Valve to Control Oil Cooler Flow ...DanH Input

Interesting. Didn't say what brand/model of engine, but Lycoming powered RV's have an open vernatherm bypass when cold.

In theory, cold oil flow is through both the cooler and the open bypass. When bypass oil temperature rises, the vernatherm extends, eventually blocking the bypass hole and forcing more flow* to the cooler path.

The "oil cooler always has flow, cold or hot" scheme is specifically intended to prevent congealing. The above incident seems to suggest that the cooler path congealed after liftoff, despite some flow. So was this a Lycoming, and what was the oil type and OAT? Do you happen to know which cooler?

The shutdown brings up another design point. If somehow the cooler path were to become blocked, the vernatherm itself has a spring loaded tip, see below. The arithmetic says it should come off the seat at 60~80 psi. As I understand it, the engine should not lose oil pressure even with a fully closed vernatherm and a blocked cooler. Remember, the system has a positive displacement pump.

Larry, could you tell us more about the tests resulting in the 70% figure? When you say efficient, do you mean it is leaking oil flow past the seated cone, and was that test performed with an 8432 dual pass cooler?

 

New First Flights Reported on the Mothership





 

Fuel Smell ...rv8ch Input

I used some fluorescent fuel dye to try to track down a slight fuel smell, and realized that unfortunately Loctite 561 thread sealant stick is also fluorescent. BTW, so are the plastic inserts on locknuts, and my thread sealer, but that's another matter.

Trying to track down a very slight fuel smell is harder than it sounds.

 

Broken Tap, any suggestions?

It's the nose gear fairing attachment hole(s).

 

 

December 2, 2020.  Issue #5,227. (Need a contract pilot?)
 

Before Painting Vinyl Label Used ...Dennis Callaghan

I was not painted at the time of inspection so had my daughter create vinyl labels providing instructions. This photo is while prepping to install the JDAir latch.

 

Intermittent Power Loss - high RPM ...RedRaider94 reply

I was able to get up and do some recording although I forgot to change the settings to 200 MS - this is recording at 1000MS or every second. It is still a bit interesting and my initial thought that the tach wasn't changing on the second flight isn't true.

1st picture is the 1st takeoff. Top graph is EGT and Fuel Pressure. Bottom graph is CHT and Fuel Flow. FP is running between 27 and 29 which it always has and I think is normal. EGT's seem to be extremely consistent. I don't see anything that jumps off the page as abnormal here.

2nd picture is the 2nd takeoff. Same graphs but the only thing that jumps out is how much more erratic the tach is. It's not crazy swings but a high of 2623 down to 2587 but definitely not smooth like the first takeoff.

It's never a situation where i feel like the engine is going to quit but I can feel the back and forth of power changes in my body enough to feel that something is going on.

Any thoughts on these or what it could be? Could it be something with the Constant Speed prop or governor even (I have a slight leak on one side where the base of the whirlwind prop connects to the hub - there is a little grease coming from the seal).  -->

 

Milestone ...arr (RV-10 builder)

Update 11-30-20.

Training: solo'd after 15 years of being away from my first lessons.
Great CFI who is a crop duster is teaching good stick and rudder and FORCING ME to feel what the airplane is doing and FIX it!

Today went to a new airport locally and am now cleared to fly three in the area and get ready for the first cross country.

Building: Getting near the end of the elevators!

Insurance: I agree it's looking grim for low hours and an RV10. Therefore, I will just continue to fly ALOT!!
Hopefully by the time the 10 is done I will have 300 hours! And a handful of dual time in someone's RV10.

And thanks for all the help out there!

 

Fuel sender screw sealing ...TASEsq RV-14

I was wondering if anyone had sealed over the back of their fuel sender screws?

I was thinking when i dry installed them today, that it wouldn't be that hard to cover the whole nutplate and screw end with sealant, then back the screws out. I doubt the sealant would stick to the screws, but as a precaution i could rub them in boelube on the ends.

This would achieve a good seal around the screw ends, and the proseal on the flange should do the rest - then no sealant would be needed on the heads.

 

The Panel Then ...Roadjunkie1

Here's my panel in Suzie Q about a 1000 hours ago. It took me months of moving cutouts of instruments to get this layout, which I REALLY like. Is it Old School with "steam gauges"? Yep! I like it. I am currently installing a Dynon EFIS D10A to replace the Rocky Mountain Instruments mEncoder which served me well for many hours. The old Trimble GPS was great at the time but is being replaced with a iFLY 740b, likely gimbal mounted. Also getting an Echo FYX ADS-B unit. Meanwhile, the Cub is getting a lot of time on her..

 

Too light on the countersink? ...RVFan671

See pics. I went 7 clicks deeper per standard instructions from when a rivet is flush with the sink, so it could support the dimple. The metal on the right is the stainless firewall and the left is aluminum F1001D. I primed with 3chem epoxy primer after etch and alodine. My thinking is the countersink maybe slightly shallow and the primer made it even more so. What are the thoughts here before I drill out a couple rivets or rivet the rest.

The picture where you see my thumb on the green metal is right where I have a single rivet installed between a couple clecos. The other pic with thumbs on the light I'm showing an empty hole between two clecos.

 

ELT Mounting ...Freemasm's RV-4 method

You can make a shelf that extends from the floor rib to stringer as already mentioned. Reference pic by the elevator bellcrank

 

Fuel on belly ...Mike RV-10

Guys,

I have a question - I over the last few months I have seen these streaks on my belly. The photo is of the bottom of the fuselage along where the spar connects the two wings.

I said fuel in the title but I am not 100% sure what the fluid is .. . as you can see it has a blue tint but doesn't evaporate right off like 100LL and there is a bit of grit to it dark specs.

My first step was to pull the cover off the tunnel - no noticeable streaking or leaks. I did have an issue back in March when I did my annual I found leaking around the stopper (not sure what you call it) screw in my stock Van's Fuel Valve. At the time I tightened and torque sealed - in my recent inspection there was no leaking here or anywhere else I could detect.

One other possible area for fuel was a leak in the Right Tank along the in board rib joint about 2 inches forward of the vent. Fuel from this leak flowed down, aft and inboard along the spar - gear leg. I repaired this a month or two ago and cleaned everything up. There is no indication of fuel leak now - though I pulled the tank to make sure there was no leaking along the spare and found zero indications of a leak - also performed a pressure test no bubbles and it held pressure no issues.

One idea is that there might be fuel mixing with the grease from the gear leg??? But I don't figure out why the streaks would only be at the center of the aircraft and not all along the belly leading out to the streaks in the center.


 

 

December 1, 2020.  Issue #5,226.
  Working up a Christmas list of stocking stuffer ideas for RVators - should have here on the front page in a day or two.  Possible late push tomorrow due to extra job running late - right seat in a sim checkride.  Awesome client who knows his stuff cold.  Dress rehearsal Monday was a pleasure.  Many of these sim hops are translating into changes in how I approach flying the RV.  CRM is rubbing off to my solo RV world.
    (Need a contract pilot?)
 

My RV Weekend ...rleffler

Gave my grandson his first ride in a RV. Last year for his birthday, he got the RV pedal plane in the same colors as my RV-10. My son, in the right seat, helped me build the RV-10 while he was in high school many years ago. His aircraft goes a slight bit faster than mine. He currently flies a F-35.

 

Final Version of Hold Open Latch ...David Paule RV-3B

Here's the final version of the hold-open latch. I still need to trim one leg of the bracket where it touches on the shoulder harness slot. I clecoed the canopy on just to get a feel for it with that, plus notice that bit of blue tape? To see if that touched the canopy. It didn't. In the open position:  -->

 

Marriage and the RV Builder ...Bob Collins

For a long time, I've wanted to write an article about homebuilding and marriage.

There are at least three types of marriages surrounding homebuilding.

* The fully engaged spouse who really is into the project.

* The spouse who is supportive of the project but doesn't want to participate. He/she has their own thing going and makes clear the project isn't hers/his, it's yours.

* The divorced spouse. It probably didn't collapse because someone decided to build an airplane, but it probably didn't help.

There are plenty of examples of the first scattered around VAF and I've enjoyed talking to them over the years and will probably circle back if I go ahead with this research.

I need only walk into the next room to meet the second kind. And they're pretty easy to find.

So I'm not too worried about providing their perspective and tips for keeping a marriage intact during an airplane build.

The third is the hardest to find, at least in terms of getting everyone to talk to a writer and be open about a failed marriage and an airplane project. And I'm not really interested in grinding marital axes. I want to find people who lost a marriage, who would've liked to have it have succeeded, and are introspective about things.

So I don't really know if this will get anywhere but it's worth putting out there. If you are in the THIRD group, and you'd be willing to talk about the strain a project put on a marriage, what you would/wouldn't do differently etc., please send me a PM or contact me at bcollinsrv7a 'at' centurylink 'dot' net.

I think an article of this magnitude and research would be very helpful for married people considering building an airplane.

 

December Calendar Wallpaper ...Ed Hicks pic

 

ANL Fuses? ...RV7ForMe

Hey there. I have looked at old post and read a bunch about the FWF big wires and stuff. Where to put the shunt and what not...

I understand people have opinions on weather or not to use an ANL fuse. But the ones who doe use one on the B lead that is actually a bit larger than the max rated output of the Alternator.... at least I read that a few time.

lets say its a 60AMP PlanePower Alt. on the RV14 the B lead seems to go straigh to the panel and the wire from the from the batt contactor also meets it there...

If I put them in line together with one ANL that means if the ALT produces to much energy the battery will also be disconnected when the fuse blows...  -->

 

DECEMBER IS PLEDGE DRIVE MONTH:

  2020 has been a yard sale in terms of both shit and storm to anyone running a small business, and as a 1-person business VAF is right there in the middle of the steaming pile that this year is.  I've flown our RV-6 exactly (12.1) hrs this year to date and have been working a side job in the evenings and on weekends (and exploring more options) to keep up with bills.  Some advertisers have had to back out due to their own cash shortfalls.  We're all hurting.
  If you're one of those daily readers of VAF who doesn't think a donation matters, and that I'm giving Jeff Bezos a run for his money, I'd beg ask you to reconsider and go read the donate page.  If you used the VAF classifieds and sold something for a thousand dollars with no hassle, maybe throw me a tiny thanky via PayPal (you can point your camera app at the little QR square top left).  Painless.  I'm telling ya, it really matters this year.
  If you've already sent in an honor system donation in 2020, thank you for helping me keep VAF afloat, a roof over my head and our family fed.  If you haven't, please at least read this.
  Sorry for the commercial.  v/r, (Need a contract pilot?)

 

Jumping In

Hello, all!

I just ordered my RV-14 empennage kit this morning, and I couldn't be more excited!

A little backstory: I started an RV-10 back in 2009, but some major life changes forced me to sell the un-completed empennage several months later. At the same time, I walked away from flying, thinking I'd never be back. Well, after 11 years of trying to convince myself that I actually didn't miss piloting an airplane, in February of this year, I finally gave in: I transitioned from the Piper Cherokees in which I'd done all my training to a Cirrus SR20 ... and fell in love all over again. I've flown almost 70 hours since then, and I'm about to take my instrument checkride, which will fulfill my #1 New Year's resolution for 2020.

Naturally, I have spent much of the year browsing the online classifieds, window shopping for the airplane of my dreams. While a turbine-powered beast like the Legend would probably be my aircraft of choice if there were no other considerations (like money, mission, insurance requirements), I'm more realistic than I was a few years ago, and all of my research and browsing led me back to Van's once again.

I initially considered the RV-8, for its fighter-like appeal and amazing performance, but a side-by-side two-seater really fits my typical mission profile much better than a tandem arrangement. Also, I intend to equip my aircraft with all the latest avionics, making a larger panel almost a necessity. That led me to the RV-14, which I think checks almost every box for me. I've found some absolutely stunning examples on the net (many of them here on this site!), and this morning, I made my decision to move forward!

Back in 2009, I attended the RV-10 empennage class at Alexander Technical Center in Newnan, GA, and I got pretty comfortable with the techniques needed to get started. However, I haven't picked up a rivet gun or deburring tool in 11 years, so I'm a bit anxious about getting started on the -14!

Also, I sold all my tools years ago, so I'm shopping for those now. I'll also have to reorganize my garage, which is where I'll be building for the time being. I'll eventually have a web site for the build, and I'll add that to my signature when I get it set up.

Looking forward to talking with you all over the next couple of years!

Best,
-- Chris Klugewicz
fly from KJWN, live near KSRB
about to take the leap into building an RV-14

 

Do I have a bad EGT sensor?

Whilst futzing about the Shenandoah Valley today, I noticed that I had an EGT reading abnormally low compared to the others. I have a GRT EIS 4000. It's a simple design but I gotta admit I'm in love with the thing.  --->

 

Q: Frequency of carb balance.

Outside of the annual inspection, how often should the carbs need balanced?

A: Depends on how many hrs you fly per year.  Rotax specifies a carb synch be done at every 100 hr inspection or when roughness is noted that could be cause by improper carb synch.

 

One Impressive Ground Pic ...Bruce Windom

 

 

November 27, 2020.  Issue #5,224.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled holiday weekend.
  (Need a contract pilot?)
 

Winter Warmth ...Jim Stricker RV-12

A simple way to block cold air from the baggage compartment...

 

N662F First Flight (RV-14A) ...Amazon-1

This morning my project turned into a real airplane. I completed the punch list of items that I needed to do and decided to do the first flight. The flight was short (about 0.25 hours) and I stayed in the pattern.

I knew it was going to be relatively short flight because my wife gave me a hard stop at 1230pm to be home for Thanksgiving dinner.

The weather was warm and clear with about a 9 mph cross wind.

I did a thorough pre-flight and then did a run up check on the taxi-way. Then it was time to launch. The plane flies great!

Two good landings later and it was time to head home.

Now the real fun begins as I embark on my 40 hour phase I.

Woo hoo!

Bruce

 

Help!  Fuel showing left side inspection panel ...dan.caine

Morning all and Happy Thanksgiving. I'm a new 8A operator. Doing our first conditional check and noticed 100LL stain on the lower left side aft of the fuel tank at the access/inspection door. The inboard left inspection panel. Zero drips on the floor for the entire time I've had the airplane (1yr). A few instances of the line guys overfilling and fuel draining onto the leading edge of the wing (with a likely flow under to that access panel area). Before I pull the whole wing apart any other thoughts? Any thoughts or insights on troubleshooting before disassembling the wing would be appreciated. Pic attached.

November 30, 2020.  Issue #5,225.
  Logged a .4 hop (bumpy) on Friday, then had extra paper routes on Saturday and Sunday.  Weekend went fast.  Hope you had a nice weekend and got to do some RV this'n and a that'n.
  (Need a contract pilot?)
 

My RV Weekend ...many



 

First Flight today N144BL. RV-14A ...Bsquared

2 years 7 months slow build. No major issues and all of my temps were great. I have the 5" flange and scat tube on my cooler. @85% power I had 375 on the high CHT and 1400 EGT. Oil temp never went over 180.... YEE HAW that was fun. Only real issue was some rubbing of the Vetterman exhaust on the cowl exit hole. Builder error.

 

IR Camera ...larry New

Just installed the Astronics Max-Viz. Only test flown it at night so far. Very good detail at about 3 miles. Best I could tell, it's the same as the Cirrus option. Can run it full or split screen on the G3X from the video input.

 

Am I really doing this? Introduction

Hello, we wanted to introduce ourselves as we anticipate spending countless hours on here over the next number of years. My wife and I live 15 minutes south of the Mpls/St Paul area and have placed an order for the tools to build an RV-10. We plan on placing our order for the empennage kit in January. Should give us time to finish some house projects, clean out the garage and work on the practice kits that will be arriving shortly.

If there is anyone local who is working on or completed a 10 we would love to meet and ask questions.

Thanks

-Matt and Sarah

 

Milestone: Painted ...Dennis Calaghan RV-14

 

CRUNCH TIME:

  I hope you're OK with me starting the end-of-year donation reminder a couple of weeks early this year.  2020 has been a yard sale in terms of both shit and storm to anyone running a small business, and as a 1-person business VAF is right there in the middle of the steaming pile that this year is.  I've flown our RV-6 exactly (12.1) hrs this year to date and have been working a side job in the evenings and on weekends (and exploring more options) to keep up with bills.  Some advertisers have had to back out due to their own cash shortfalls.  We're all hurting.
  If you're one of those daily readers of VAF who doesn't think a donation matters, and that I'm giving Jeff Bezos a run for his money, I'd beg ask you to reconsider and go read the donate page.  If you used the VAF classifieds and sold something for a thousand dollars with no hassle, maybe throw me a tiny thanky via PayPal (you can point your camera app at the little QR square top left).  Painless.  I'm telling ya, it really matters this year.
  If you've already sent in an honor system donation in 2020, thank you for helping me keep VAF afloat and a roof over my head.  If you haven't, please at least read this.
  Sorry for the commercial.  v/r, (Need a contract pilot?)

 

Securing wires / hoses fwf ..Draker RV-7A

Looking for opinions on a few FWF items I've been working on lately:

1. Securing wires and hoses. I've opted to use adel clamps attached to the engine mount to make sure that my wires and manifold pressure hose stay put. Is it recommended to use one clamp for wires and a different clamp for hoses? Or is it acceptable to bundle them together:  -->

 

Countersinking F-1004K ...Matt RV-10

Still at work on section 29, and just wanted to resolve a question. On page 29-11 it shows the #30 holes that should not be dimpled, but I'm guessing there is a typo in the diagram and that the aft-most hole in the forward skin should also not be dimples, and that the F-1004K should not be countersunk.

 

Fuel Leak Possible Help ...Saville

Could be overflow draining but also could not:

I had a leak similar to that and thought it was because of fuel splash upon filling but it turned out that the Proseal on entire lower aft seam of the tank had not cured. See thumbnail

How far it goes depends upon the size of the leak. Try to get a borescope or camera in there and see if you can determine where the leak starts.

 

Aircraft Extras, Inc. RV NEWS

(Rich Meske)  Take a look at our "E-Z Out" Center Console for the RV-6, 7, 9, and 14. The center console not only adds more storage space, but you also may use it for leverage to get in and out of the aircraft. We presently have stock on the RV-14 console. E-mail us to put yourself on the list for the next order of RV-6,7,9 consoles. It is solidly constructed so that you can put your full weight on it as long as you secure it properly upon installation.

We also make other interior pieces such as seats and side panel armrests. We are presently developing armrest panels for the RV-14.

More details at aircraftextras.com


 

 

Fuel Tank Repair Kit ...DanH techniques

Low speed, high torque drill, ordinary fly cutter. Go slow.

(Southern Pete) +1, I built a wooden stand for the tank and positioned it under a pillar drill. Chain drilling takes ages and leads to lots of clean up.

 

Two of Everything ...Piper_J3's approach

[ed. And I like that leather-topped stick! v/r,dr]

 

 

November 25, 2020.  Issue #5,223.
  The Tater is home (remote school for the rest of the year) and our daughter will join in the meal via Zoom.  Susie is driving down to Waco to see her Mom Friday (she's 95 and 2020 makes everything harder - we'll Zoom her on Thursday).  Hope you're surrounded by family and friends this holiday and talk of RVation is abundant!  See ya Friday.  Wishing you and your family a very Happy Thanksgiving.
  (Need a contract pilot?)

 

K.I.S.S.  ....[ed. And I like those glasses cases.}

(rv6n6r)  One more vote for KISS.
I chose no grip not even a foam thingie because I fly most of the time with my wrist on my knee, and two or three fingers holding the stick several inches down.

Other than the PTT on the top I put an A/P disconnect switch down on the side.

 

AD 96-09-10 Oil Impeller Gears

After a thorough prebuy examination on an RV with an IO-360-A1D with the help of an A&P I learned the following:

1. Take the serial number on the engine data plate and call Lycoming to get the manufactured date

2. Use the two week subscription paid for by an A&P to search for all applicable Airworthiness Directives (AD) by serial number and manufacture date.

3. Just because an engine was installed "new" doesn't mean it wasn't kept preserved for years, many years. The engine in my -7 was manufactured in 1983, stored pickled until 2003, then installed "new" in the plane I now own.

4. ADs may apply to an engine any time after they were manufactured. It doesn't matter when they were put into service. Given that it is much easier to perform work on an engine when it is out of the aircraft without accessories and exhaust mounted, is another great reason to check for ADs before installation. Additionally, the ADs should have been checked before an Airworthiness Certificate was issued for the aircraft, but don't assume the check was completed. It wasn't on this one.

5. Magneto inspection every 500 hours. If its not in the logbook it didn't happen. Bendix Magnetos are indefinitely serviceable. To make sure they are reliable and perform to a safe level, especially if it's a Dual Magneto, an IRAN is absolutely a good idea every 500 hours, though not "required."

6. Spark plugs. We clean, gap and rotate them at least once a year during the condition inspection. If there's corrosion on the exterior of the plugs or the center electrode is very worn (oval) it may be a good idea to replace the plugs. Also, if there's no indication they've been replaced then it might be time to bite the bullet.

7. Fluid hoses. The non-teflon hoses are good for about 8 years, then they must be replaced. Mine were 16 years old and performing admirably. They were all very stiff but I had no leaks. I understood these hoses needed to be replaced during the prebuy examination and the aircraft purchase price reflected that requirement.

What I found was that the oil impeller gears, as indicated by serial number and date of manufacture, needed to be replaced. Lycoming determined they needed to be replaced and it is not optional, even on an experimental aircraft.

The plane I chose to buy had been flying for 16 years with the original gears that were installed at the Lycoming factory in 1983 without incident. Ooops. Those 534 hours are in the past... Moving forward I made it right so it is truely airworthy and in a "safe condition for flight." FAR Part 43, Appendix D describes the scope and detail of the yearly condition inspection, I have no choice going forward.

 

CRUNCH TIME:

  I hope you're OK with me starting the end-of-year donation reminder a couple of weeks early this year.  2020 has been a yard sale in terms of both shit and storm to anyone running a small business, and as a 1-person business VAF is right there in the middle of the steaming pile that this year is.  I've flown our RV-6 exactly (12.1) hrs this year to date and have been working a side job in the evenings and on weekends (and exploring more options) to keep up with bills.  Some advertisers have had to back out due to their own cash shortfalls.  We're all hurting.
  If you're one of those daily readers of VAF who doesn't think a donation matters, and that I'm giving Jeff Bezos a run for his money, I'd beg ask you to reconsider and go read the donate page.  If you used the VAF classifieds and sold something for a thousand dollars with no hassle, maybe throw me a tiny thanky via PayPal (you can point your camera app at the little QR square top left).  Painless.  I'm telling ya, it really matters this year.
  If you've already sent in an honor system donation in 2020, thank you for helping me keep VAF afloat and a roof over my head.  If you haven't, please at least read this.
  Sorry for the commercial.  v/r, (Need a contract pilot?)

 

SB-00031.  RV-8/8A Quick Build Firewall Fastener Inspection and Replacement

...issued 11/24/20.  Mothership.



 

Check those fittings ...kaa

Not sure if there is anything new to the story, but I just wanted to share.

I've always steered away from doing work on the fuel system of my plane (I didn't build it). However with the panel upgrade I had to change some fittings, and then I needed to replace the carb, so I kind of eased into it. Anyway, today I was fixing a tiny seepage in the main fuel line fitting on the carb (probably hadn't tightened the NPT adapter enough when I installed it). This all went fine, but to my surprise when I turned the fuel pump on the first thing I saw was a a small puddle of fuel on the floor.

Turns out that a fitting to the red cube was finger tight! See it on the picture - the fitting is just finger tight and the torque strip is as it was. I've never touched these fittings since they were installed by an A&P during condition inspection a year and a half ago, when all fuel lines were replaced. So it sounds like I was flying for more than a year with a main fuel line fitting just finger tight, and the only thing that prevented it from undoing itself was some tension that the fuel line put on the connection. When I was moving the line away to remove the carb fitting, it probably tugged on the red cube just enough. I checked everything else of course and it was fine, but still I'm not exactly happy about this.

The bottom line I guess is - even if there is a torque strip on something, doesn't mean that it is tight. Better check all of them!

I wonder how often it happens. I remember finding something like this on a rental Arrow a while ago (I think a gascolator was loose).

 

Trouble attaching F-14131 to F-01407 to complete empennage ...RV-14

I am having trouble attaching the F-14131 to the F-01407 with AN470AD4-4's. I can not get the squeezer or gun in straight enough and am bending the shop heads over. It is so bad I had to remove and make a doubler and try again. It is still bad. How did you guys get this riveted up?

 

 

November 24, 2020.  Issue #5,222. (Need a contract pilot?)

Marble Canyon (L41) ...Vlad pics in the 'Utah' section.

Pretty place. Stunning views approaching the airport. Glen Dam to the right if you are coming from the Northeast. Monitor Page Unicom traffic sometimes is dense there.

 

Heater Options ...Ron Townson RV-8

If you really need heat
- 2 mufflers (or muffs, less effective)
- 2 airboxes
- left thru firewall to front seat diffuser
- right to 2" scat thru lower baggage to 2" flange fitting, blows to back seat
- I started our with plastic (picture) which melted, ended up with straight aluminum flange, eyeball unnecessary

No need to go through spar, airflow goes beside pilot, hardly noticed from front...  Also need to fix cold air leaks, I did a cover over the rear of canopy with weatherstrip, and fuzzy velcro under the skirt, aileron pushrod boots etc...   I got my wife a heated motorcycle vest, she's worn it but never plugged it in. I get asked to "please turn down the heat"...

 

Sale:  AeroLEDs (10% off 11/27 - 12/11)

FMI: HERE

 

My RV Weekend ...various (continued)



 

CRUNCH TIME:

  I hope you're OK with me starting the end-of-year donation reminder a couple of weeks early this year.  2020 has been a yard sale in terms of both shit and storm to anyone running a small business, and as a 1-person business VAF is right there in the middle of the steaming pile that this year is.  I've flown our RV-6 exactly (12.1) hrs this year to date and have been working a side job in the evenings and on weekends (and exploring more options) to keep up with bills.  Some advertisers have had to back out due to their own cash shortfalls.  We're all hurting.
  If you're one of those daily readers of VAF who doesn't think a donation matters, and that I'm giving Jeff Bezos a run for his money, I'd beg ask you to reconsider and go read the donate page.  If you used the VAF classifieds and sold something for a thousand dollars with no hassle, maybe throw me a tiny thanky via PayPal (you can point your camera app at the little QR square top left).  Painless.  I'm telling ya, it really matters this year.
  If you've already sent in an honor system donation in 2020, thank you for helping me keep VAF afloat and a roof over my head.  If you haven't, please at least read this.
  Sorry for the commercial.  v/r, (Need a contract pilot?)

 

Button Locations on Control Sticks ...discussion and pictures

Just curious what builders are doing for controls on the stick. I'm inclined to be minimal with an elevator trim and radio click to talk, but would be interested in hearing what other controls are considered desirable.


 

Status Report ...goatflieg RV-8

 

First Flight Reported on Mothership

 

 

November 23, 2020.  Issue #5,221.

My RV Weekend ...various


 

RV-7A Rebirthing Status Report ...kentlik

I am moving to the hangar early in the build, my spouse wants her garage back haha!  I whipped up a fuse transport deal and a control surface stand. I have several additional assemblies and am parsing through which ones will be used. All need work, some more than others. Vans has a few QB assemblies that need work and may be used depending on their condition relative to what I have on hand.


 

SL-00022: RV-12iS Flaperon Torque Tube Spacer ...mothership

Van's has published Service Letter SL-00022, which guides affected aircraft owners (as described in the service letter document) to install a special spacer if their flaperon torque tubes are measured and found to be short. The procedure for measuring and inspecting included in the service letter document.

Should the flaperon torque tubes be found to be short, Van's Part Number SL-00022 is a bag that contains the hardware components needed to perform the addition of a special spacer washer on both wings of the aircraft.

This service letter applies only to RV-12iS aircraft (does not apply to the original/legacy RV-12) as defined in the service letter document.

Service Letter: HERE

 

Upper longerons twist ...JDA_BTR RV-8

My upper longerons are bent as shown in the plans. They fit pretty well on both sides. Ship forward they angle in and down to match the weldment angle. This inward angle obviously should carry aft to the mid brace.

But further aft it seems necessary to rotate the angle so the outside face is vertical. The bend at the baggage bulkhead F-807 seems the right place to put in that twist up and out.

Did I miss the rotation in the plans? Or is this a twist to fit situation? Is my estimation of where to insert the correcting twist correct?

 

SB-00023 published: RV-12/12iS Engine Mount Standoff Inspection/Replacement ...mothership

Van's has published Service Bulletin SB-00023, which guides affected RV-12/12iS aircraft owners (as listed in the doc) to inspect the engine mount standoff weldment on affected aircraft for cracks. Van's is aware of two RV-12/12iS aircraft on which these cracks have been observed. Inspection can be completed with the top cowl removed using a small inspection mirror.
If cracks are found, do not fly the aircraft. Replace the stand-off with the new version part.
If you do not find cracks, you may continue to fly and need to inspect periodically at least every 100 hours. Details are contained in the service bulletin document.

Service Bulletin: HERE

 

My air filter wore thru my airbox

For the second time in almost 20 years the K&N air filter in my -4 has worn thru the fiberglass bottom. The first time this occurred, I replaced the airbox assembly and repaired the old one to keep as a spare. The spare will now be pressed into service while I repair this one.

Has anyone found a solution to keep this from happening? (I assume I'm not the only one experiencing this issue.)

 

Bit of help and advise required please! ...spackrackman (U.K.)

Hi all from the UK, I have very excitedly bought myself a RV6a kit from a deceased estate, the aircraft has not been touched since the mid 1990's and been in storage for a good few years. The aircraft at some point has been on its wheels and engine (0-360) fitted.
I am now working away through the service bulletins and the big one standing out it is the nose leg updates. This is where my problems begin.

I have an early nose leg. I have a pal who has a RV7a engine frame and nose leg that he does not want. Can I just use his combination and fit it to mine? I am told that I cannot just have the nose leg as it will have been match drilled the engine frame is this true? I am not that keen on shipping my old nose leg back the the USA and ordering a new nose leg when I have one easily available here in the UK.
What are peoples thoughts?
Will the nose 7a nose leg fit my 6a mid 1990's engine frame?
Will the 7a engine frame fit my already drilled mid 1990's 6a firewall?

Many thanks in advance!
Jonnie

 

Update on Fuel Leak ...echowhisky

Pulled fairing and found this. Going to clean it up, fill tank, and see what's up. My mechanic says there is sometimes a cork gasket. But I am not seeing that mentioned anywhere. Are these tanks, covers, and senders all sealed up with pro-seal?

As this bird is 7 years old with only a few hundred hours, I am a little disappointed and would like to avoid playing wackamole.

From what I am reading this is not uncommon. Is this more pronounced in colder climates with more expansion and contractions between seasons? Builder workmanship?

Unless this is obvious and simple, I am guessing best option is to pull it and have it professionally sealed. Sounds like a chore

 

 

November 20, 2020.  Issue #5,220.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
 
(Need a contract pilot occasionally?  How about using me?)
 

Jon Wald RV-7A First Flight ...mothership

 

CherryMAX removal lesson learned

I used CherryMAX rivets in a row of hard to get rivets on my 8. They worked out great. No problem.

Before I put them in i wanted to be sure I could remove one. I heard they were hard to remove. There is a great video that shows the process using center drills. I was dubious based on my experience using them with a hand drill and bought a cobalt starting drill from McMaster Carr. PN 27445A11.

I center punched the stem with a sharp Starrett automatic center punch and drilled it out until the lock was gone and punched it out with a sharp Starrett 1/16" drive punch. I did four of them without a problem. In a way it was less stressful than removing a solid rivet. It's almost impossible to get into the base material with the drill.

I don't have the best hand/eye coordination and if I can do it anyone can.

 

Leading Edge Landing Light Lens sect 17 ...RV-14

Question??

I just attached the left outboard leading edge and at the end of the section is the landing light lens attach install. I would like to defer this until way later. Is there a reason to do it now? I think it will get knocked a round for two more years and I have no landing light yet any way or wiring harness for that matter.

Can I press on to fuel tanks and do this later?

 

Percent Power Calculation

I've got a GRT Horizon EX and EIS4000. I've input the data for the percentage power lookup table as suggested by GRT here:

And I then get a calculated percent power on my EFIS. Problem is, the percent number I'm getting seems to be extremely optimistic. As just one example, the other day at 24 inches and 2400 RPM at 4500 feet, I was showing 99.9 percent power. If I'm reading the extremely complicated chart in the O-320 manual correctly (big "if".....) my engine is making considerably less power than that. Which also matches with my limited understanding of the physics involved.

Has anyone tweaked this lookup table to get better results?

FWIW, I've got an O-320-D1A, carbureted, with a Hartzell CS.

 

Snorkel vs FlyEFII throttle flange adaptor

I am at the snorkel (VA-132-2) installation and wondering if any of you can share hints and thoughts.

My setup:
Aerosport IO-375-M1S
Superior cold sump, horizontal induction

System 32 EFII
Standard Van's cowl

My main concern is (see photos) that the EFII throttle body has a 2-7/8" opening vs a 2-3/8" opening for the snorkel. If I calculate correctly, that's just a tad over 2 square inches of area difference.

Greater area/volume in the throttle body translates to lower airflow speed thus increased pressure, correct?
Would that be a good thing?
Seems to me that's like breathing through a small tube...

I will have to rework the snorkel in any case as I have a B&C starter and it interferes.
Should I just keep the top part and fit/fabricate a custom tube around the starter and to mate with the throttle body?
How about a 3" silicone non-collapsible tube?

I'm far from being a fiberglass expert...

 

Sub Panel Cutting for Deep Avionics ...Rob PIREP

Might help with ideas. High school teachers said to only ever use me as a bad example....

Hole in sub panel is 6.25 x 6.5

Panel is CF and extended 1.75, before someone comments, G5 to be flush mounted and iPad mount is flush and pivot mounted, I'm aware of the interference issues at top with the tip up bow. Switches just randomly thrown in and will move around.

Stack is

Garmin GNX375
PDA360ex
Garmin GTR200
Garmin GTR200

Cheers.

 

Body Filler Advice ....DanH PIREP

Polyester-based filler vs epoxy-based filler is not really a binary choice, all or nothing, one or the other. Both have their uses, and the reasons can be subtle.

Big picture: Epoxy is superior in terms of adhesion, tensile strength, and modulus. Polyester is fast, simple, and inexpensive, with (in very rough terms) 20~40 % lower mechanical values.

Considering only these mechanical factors, an epoxy filler becomes a better choice when the application will be subject to more stress. An example might be the leading edge of a surface subject to insect and rock impact, or bridging a gap subject to differences in thermal expansion.

A faired surface, with no notable stress, doesn't require high mechanical values. A polyester filler allows speed; it becomes possible to notice a small imperfection, apply fill, sand, and paint in the same afternoon. Polyester resin is also less expensive, as its viscosity and cure are adjusted with inexpensive styrene monomer, often as much as 30%. Speed and price are huge drivers in the auto body industry, where the application doesn't require high mechanical factors.

One practical factor can be application position. A simple epoxy/micro mix is not thixotropic. It will sag and run to some greater or lesser degree when applied to a vertical surface. It may not matter (for example, if the surface will be subjected to a lot of contour sanding later), or it may be quite inconvenient. All the pre-packaged commercial polyesters are largely thixotropic, and even it they were not, they cure so fast that it doesn't matter.

There are chemical factors. For example, polyester resin cannot be applied directly to foam, so it doesn't work for contouring fast forms in the home shop.

There's an old rule which says epoxy can be applied to a cured polyester/glass composite, but polyester should not be applied to a cured epoxy/glass composite. The polyester filler industry has pushed hard to develop fillers sold as "sticks to anything", so the rule may not be quite as ironclad as it once was. However, given the average aircraft builder has epoxy on hand in the shop, observing the rule has little downside.

Polyester shrinks during cure and later, which introduces internal stress, so eventual cracking was expected with earlier polyester fillers. We don't see so much of that with today's improved formulations, but shrinkage still exists.

Neither epoxy or polyester is particularly safe. MEKP catalyst is blinding. Epoxies are notorious for sensitizing users to the point of bad skin reactions. You must use care with either system.

Polyester fillers are heavier, as the typical bulk solids are talc and limestone. The primary bulk filler is most epoxy formulations is microballoons. It obviously makes no real difference to airframe weight if the quantities are small. However, be aware that a heavier filler does affect control surface balance. There is at least one flutter accident on record in which a significant quantity of filler moved a rudder CG aft.

To the OP's question...Polyester is probably fine on the dent. Epoxy/micro would be better for the seam between the fiber glass tip and the aluminum elevator. You could use either for either, and obviously some do with success.

Recent practical applications in my shop...Rans has builders cover bolt heads which protrude through the front of the tubular leading edge spar. The heads ultimately are under the fabric, thus the fill or a cover plate. Some filler also fairs the junction between the spar and the leading edge upper surface sheet metal. This is, hands down, a polyester filler job. Both wings, from start to done, took about 45 minutes.

Carbon turtledeck shell...one ply of 6K twill on each side of a honeycomb core. Although either polyester or epoxy filler would work, epoxy micro is much lighter in this quantity.

 

 

November 19, 2020.  Issue #5,219.
  (Need a contract pilot occasionally?  How about using me?)

Very hot No.3 Cylinder

Hi guys,

After I had a sticking valve in the No.1 cylinder, I inspected all 4 on my RV-9, equipped with a Lycoming O-320-D2J. They were all found in a rather sorry state and I decided to replace all four with factory new cylinders.

The plane is equipped with a James Holy cowl and today I flew for the first time. Cylinder 3 is the hottest and won't cool down under 400F. In climb it went as high as 440F. Before the cylinder change, No.1 was the hottest but would cool down to be within 25F of the other cylinder head temperatures in cruise, all around 375F depending on OAT.

Oil cooler is behind No.3 cylinder and takes a chunk of the cooling air but this was never a big issue before.

Attached is picture in cruise of CHT's and EGT's.
What would be the best approach to solve this issue ?
Your advice would be very much appreciated.

 

Fuel Flow Difference Between Tanks ...iamtheari

I finally got to test the fuel system on my plane tonight. I am curious about a difference I saw between the two sides of the system. I purchased my fuel lines (firewall to selector, selector to fuselage sides, and tanks to fuselage) from Aircraft Specialty. I used the kit stock Andair fuel valve, boost pump, and filter. The tanks were built to plans. Nothing comes to mind that would be different between the two sides.

However, the flow is definitely not the same. We started on the left, then did the right, and then did the left again. I disconnected the fuel line from the input to the fuel flow servo, selected a tank, and ran the boost pump. We got the pump and lines primed by flowing about 10 oz of gasoline out the line before we did the measurement. Then we did a 30-second timed run. The left side put out 26 oz in that time (24.3 gph). The right side put out 43 oz in the same time (40.3 gph). We tested the left side again and got the same results. The flow from the right side also appeared smoother than the left.

Other than an obstruction in the fuel lines somewhere, are there any likely causes to check for?

 

RV-10 Tunnel Access Panels ...how BrianDC did it

Went with the air ward tunnel access panels. Installed one on each side of the tunnel so I could access the fuel filter and pump. I'm sure you could make your own if you wanted.

Edit: photos of what I did here.

 

RV-8 Vetterman Crossover Exhaust

I bought my RV-8 about 18 months ago and have struggled a little with the Vetterman crossover exhaust system. I had a crack at the number 2 cylinder attaching flange and, a few months later, a crack at the number 4 flange. Then, just a few weeks ago, a crack at the crossover tube just before the exhaust outlet on the right side. I was also repeatedly breaking the crushed tubes or the adel clamps at the attach points on either the exhaust or the engine mount.

When I got the repaired pipe back from Vetterman last week, I was determined to get the system better support to avoid future cracks! After doing a lot of reading here, and consulting Vetterman's installation package directions, I decided to rework the entire support system.

Previously, I was attaching the support system to the engine mount and the tying the two pipes together horizontally. This time, I decided to attach the supports to the engine and make no attachments to the engine mount. I attached vertical supports from the sump to both pipes. Then, I tied the two pipes together horizontally.

I have attached a link to a video which shows the new support system and my test flight. The startup and shutdown parts of the video are slowed down but the rest of the video is full speed. The indications for speed, vertical speed, and G are unreliable but I did put 5.5 positive and 2 negative on the airplane during the aerobatic portion of the flight.

As you'll see, that exhaust system has a lot of movement during startup and shutdown. For me, this video is clear evidence that attaching to the engine mount is probably not a good idea. The exhaust system moving with the engine seems to make more sense to me.

Hopefully no more cracks! Thanks to Clint at Vetterman for his help and for his quick and expert repairs of my pipes!

Video

 

 

November 18, 2020.  Issue #5,218.
  (Need a contract pilot occasionally?  How about using me?)

New (but familiar) face at Van's ...Greg at Mothership

Kelsey Hickman has recently joined the Van's team, and we thought it might be good to put a face to the name for everyone. She's working on our Marketing/media team (actually, technically the fact that she's here means we now have a team!) so when you reach out it's very possible that you'll hear from her.

Kelsey has years of practical experimental aviation experience - at another aircraft company as well as many years spent working in the family business (Advanced Flight Systems, now part of Dynon) and you may have talked to her at OSH or other events when looking at AFS/Dynon gear in the past. She's currently a student pilot, and we're super glad she's here!

 

Garmin Pilot v10.3



 

RV-7 #74017 Update ...rmartingt

Time for another update!

I've found that keeping a running "to-do list" has really helped me organize what I need to do and what needs to be done in what order. I just created a Google doc and listed items in order; I could add/rearrange items if I think of them or discover a different order is needed. And then I also get the satisfaction of crossing items out as I finish them   -->

 

RV-10 Rudder Trim Issues

I recently purchased an RV-10. It has a small piece of wood glued to the right-hand side of the rudder (inducing left rudder). I noticed while flying it that I had to constantly apply right rudder to keep the ball in the center. So I removed the small static wooden rudder trim piece, added a mechanical rudder trim system $200 from Aerosport products. Flew it, trimmed it up and viola! I thought...problem solved. On to the next nit! Till next time I flew it. Now, when I fly it it needs a ton of left rudder. I cannot put enough left rudder into the Aerosport rudder trim system to overcome it.
What the **** is going on? Why is my trim need changing on a per-flight basis? It's as if I need that little wooden trim piece back on the rudder again.

Surely at least one of you has had this problem before.

 

Vent SV-5 replacement options: Vent SV-6 and Vent SV-7...mothership vid

 

Categorize under 'Safety'....taken recently in our local area

(52F)  Randy Richmond photo.  Cheetah wingtip hits back right corner of car that is parked too close to taxiway.  Spins around and bites front right corner of car.  Plane totaled (spar bent).  Car probably totaled.   All OK.


(enlarge)

(KXBP) Ross Burgess photos.  C-150 caught fire on ramp.


(enlarge)


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If you've never seen Skybolt's Van's-specific web page ....lots of info

 

 

November 17, 2020.  Issue #5,217.
  RVated off the surface yesterday for the first time in too long.  .8 logged in CAVU, 50*F skies followed by lunch with friends.  How do you top that?  Good weather coupled with the beauty of RV flight, and some laughs with those who feel the same - that's the good stuff.
   (Need a contract pilot occasionally?  How about using me?)
 


Fuel stop KXBP Monday morning
(enlarge)

 

R.I.P. Old Friend ....RV7ForMe post

Life is too short. I have heard it before but every now and then it just hits you.

Earlier this month I called up my buddy and asked him if he wanted to go fly that sweet RV7 of his. I helped repair it, and we have become friends in the process. We go flying sometimes and share that RV grin even in these strange Covid times. It was a gloomy fall afternoon and the view was kind of hazy.

I always get the right seat, but he lets me yank and bank her around as I please. Sometimes I even get to land. "What a sweet airplane" I thought. On the way back to the airport we talked about our mutual friend and fellow RV Pilot who, at the time was in the hospital with medical issues. These are really terrible times to be stuck in a hospital when people can't even come visit you. We decided to do a fly-over and did three steep turns right over the building. It was our way of saying hello and wishing him well.

Meanwhile, a few sun rays had made their way through the clouds. It actually looked quite pretty.

Little did we know that our dear friend passed away this very day and us doing circles over the hospital would actually be goodbye for good. Call it coincidence or fate, I sure didn't see this coming. I had no idea it was this serious. I want to say thank you for the time we shared because there will not be a funeral. There is a chance, we would not have met if he didn't happen to have an RV. I was new at the airport and was walking through the hangers looking at everyone's pride and joy. Giving his yellow RV a bath. He also took me up for my first RV ride. The RV grin permanently installed! I started building shortly after. We got talking, became friends and the rest is history.

Like most of us here I love, live and breathe aviation. But this past week I was reminded that airplanes and specially RV's are not just toys, flying carpets, time machines, or simply put some of the most kick *** airplanes out and about. They are so much more. They connect like-minded people, create amazing friendships, help us discuss issues, learn from mistakes and become better pilots even if we don't always agree on everything. Prime wars, LOP vs. ROP and drilling carburetor jets come to mind. But it is all in good fun, no matter if you are dreaming, building, flying or just talking about it.

It also happens to be the only community of friends I have where age is no factor. He was 2.5x my age and it didn't matter one bit.

Rest in peace old friend.

Follow your bliss and enjoy the freedom and beauty of flight.

 

We Kinda Already Knew This.....

Increased functional dynamics in civil aviation pilots: Evidence from a neuroimaging study
(Abstract)  Civil aviation is a distinctive career. Pilots need to monitor the entire system in real time. However, the psychophysiological mechanism of flying is largely unknown. The human brain is a large-scale interconnected organization, and many stable intrinsic large-scale brain networks have been identified. Among them are three core neurocognitive networks: default mode network (DMN), central executive network (CEN), and salience network (SN). These three networks play a critical role in human cognition. This study aims to examine the dynamic properties of the three large-scale brain networks in civil aviation pilots. We collected resting-state functional magnetic resonance imaging data from pilots. Independent component analysis, which is a data-driven approach, was combined with sliding window dynamic functional connectivity analysis to detect the dynamic properties of large-scale brain networks. Our results revealed that pilots exhibit an increased interaction of the CEN with the DMN and the SN along with a decreased interaction within the CEN. In addition, the temporal properties of functional dynamics (number of transitions) increased in pilots compared to healthy controls. In general, pilots exhibited increased between-network functional connectivity, decreased within-network functional connectivity, and a higher number of transitions. These findings suggest that pilots might have better functional dynamics and cognitive flexibility..

 

 

My RV Weekend ....continued



 

Rivet removal: expert advice requested 

Preparing to preform SB 16-03-28 on my pre-SB QB RV-14 wings as I begin this phase of construction. The SB requires drilling out 16 AN470AD4-5 rivets attaching the inboard aileron hinge brackets to the rear spar. I've put 24 similar rivets in a couple pieces of scrap totaling nearly the same thickness. As you can see from the attached pic, I can't put my rivet removal tool on the rivet heads in proper perpendicular position. Therefore, I'm not using the tool for my practice. However, since the rivets on the wings still have nice dimples in their heads, I did use the tool to make centered dimples in the practice rivets. I've decided that I'm not going to attempt removing those 16 rivets on the wings until I can remove 24 practice rivets in a row without any elongated holes.

In the first four rivets I've removed, the holes I've drilled in the heads have all gone off center after starting centered. I'm having to use a 5-1/4" drill bit because that is what I'll need to clear the hinge bracket. I might be putting a bit of pressure on the drill and causing the bit to flex a little and wander off center. But, suspecting that, I was very careful on the fourth practice rivet not to use anything but the slightest pressure and still ended up with an off-center hole for removing the head. That also starts me off center drilling with the #40 bit to drill out the shank.

I'd like to hear what some of you do to keep your holes centered when drilling out universal rivets.

All this being said, I DID use my rivet removal tool at about a 3-4* "angle of attack" on the fifth practice rivet. It was actually the best of all five and my starting point for drilling out the shank was the most centered of all five. Leads me to believe that maybe I SHOULD use the tool for drilling the heads of the "real" rivets.

Also, all five drilled out holes were at least what I would consider minimally satisfactory, the worst of them being only very slightly enlongated. I just wouldn't want more than 2-3 per side like that.

 

Pushrod tube seal leak 

For the second time in 140 hours of engine operation, I've observed an oil leak that appears to be coming from the #1 pushrod tube seal of my Superior XP-IO360 engine in my Vans RV7A.

I observed a line of oil on the right cooling air inlet baffle, and another line on the top cowling baffle. I also observed a moderate amount of oil on the #1 pushrod tube, especially near the seal, and a fine mist of oil over many parts of the right half of the engine.

After the first leak, I pushed on the seal with my fingers to make sure it seemed to be seated evenly, and kept it under observation. The second leak occurred after the aircraft had been sitting out on a cold ramp for several days. The amount of oil loss is not significant, but it's a hassle to clean and might be advanced warning of a bigger leak.

Is there any leak source other than the pushrod tube seal that would result in this distribution of oil predominantly on the pushrod tube.

How difficult is it to replace this pushrod tube seal? I built the airplane but have no great knowledge of engines. Is this a low-risk job I can do myself, or something where I'm better off doing a warranty claim and taking it to a shop.

Thank you for any insights.

 

New First Flights Reported on Mothership



 

Roll over when you wake up and look at the phone

...to see if any RVs are in the air in your area of the state. 

Answer:  Yes. ;^)

 

 

November 16, 2020.  Issue #5,216.
   (Need a contract pilot occasionally?  How about using me?)
 

My RV Weekend ...various


 

Parking brake kluge

Thought I'd never need a parking brake on my 14 so didn't install one. Then on a trip to Cedar City UT.... late afternoon, no-one around on the empty ramp, winds gusting 30+ kt, the airplane wouldn't stay put to tie it down. Made the dumb move of waiting for a lull and jumped out just as the wind picked up again. It was a tail wind and I couldn't hold the airplane from the front and kept being slowly pushed back...very uncomfortable situation and totally my fault. Finally managed to kick off a shoe and push it under the nose wheel which held it long enough to get a rope on.

Expecting more wind on the way home I kluged up a temporary one-wheel fix with a 2X2 and a bungee cord. Seems to work ok, but thinking about getting the parking brake option :-)

 

Bought an RV! ...Kaldragon

Well, yesterday I had a pre-buy done on a lovely RV-6A by Randy Richmond down in Ft Worth. He was excellent, letting me know what the builder seemed to do well, and the few things I'll need to fix on my new RV. He was very informative and accomodating, and an absolute joy to have look over my aircraft. I can't recommend him enough.

After that, the seller flew it home due to insurance requirements, and today we finished signing the registration forms, money changed hands, and we knocked the insurance requirements out over a few flights.

I gotta say, I see why there's that "RV Grin" even with the few squawks I'll have to fix/work on with my mechanic. Thanks for being a great community guys, and for helping me along with the process!

 

Hanging Up the (Commercial) Spurs .....RV-10 builder/owner Myron Nelson

Kitplanes article.


 

Autopilot and Molex Mini Connectors - Update

I installed molex mini connectors per the plans. The one on the elevator trim servo got replaced with d-sub pins after first test flight. The one on the aft deck under the horizontal stabilizer lasted 135 hours and may have gone forever. But after bringing the plane home and having weird autopilot responses in some conditions I did some troubleshooting.

The problem is/was the other molex mini in this setup. As you can see from the first pic the painter didn't care for it enough, or despite his best effort it took a hit. Either way it inserted correctly and the pins were mated, but the signals were intermittent and the trim system/autopilot control of same were hopeless. No amount of fiddling made it right. Diagnostics were achieved by not seeing the position move when the trim was moved up/down. I don't know if the autopilot feedback is tied in with position feedback but it seems likely based on what I saw. Autopilot was faultless with manual trim instead of auto.

The second pic is mid-assembly with d-sub pins, one for each wire. Each was put in a sleeve of shrink tube, then the whole was shrink tubed along a good length. I used silicon tape to wrap a length of it where it passed through the old micro mini snap hole. Third pic is the final solution.

Works well now. Lots of folks have abandoned the micro mini connectors early. I think if you make the connector to factory specs and dont disconnect/reconnect often (and don't paint it) it can work well. Mine are gone now aft. My control sticks still have them, and are working well there.

 

Need to replace cracked canopy!!!

Hello all,

I am looking for a shop or person on the west coast, preferably within one leg from central CA that can replace a canopy on an RV-8. Flying in negative temps the other day I heard two large bangs which needless to say startled me. It took me a while to realize what it was until I spotted two cracks on the aft side of the canopy, one of them spanning all the way to the mid section of the canopy! I have seen the Frankenstein repairs on other canopies but with a crack this size, I just rather replace it.

I am hoping to find someone who will do a good job so this won't happen again. Sounds like using RC fuel tubing or Sikaflex methods work well but I am open to other suggestions, comments, insights.

The previous owner had a similar issue and apparently had insurance fix it! I may look into that depending the cost.

Thank you all!

 

 

November 13, 2020.  Issue #5,215.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

Future Homebuilder ...Amelia (Scott Hersha's granddaughter)

Hoping to pass on my love of aviation, and especially homebuilt aviation, I have hope in my Grandkids, and this is a visible sign of that. My youngest 5 year old Granddaughter has finished her first EAB aircraft. Funny thing is - her name is 'AMELIA'.

I don't get to see them much in this COVID world, but hope springs eternal. All of my grandkids like coming to the airport when able, because it's fun.

 

DIY Rudder Pedal Painting/Baking ...RWoodard

I painted the pedals in my Midget Mustang with rattle can red. I baked them in my oven (I'm single so I get away with this stuff). I sold the plane with 170 hours on the rework and they still looked brand new. Pretty impressed.

I wouldn't want any kind of anti-slip treatment on the pedals as I like to be able to slide my toes up and down on the pedals.

 

Throttle Bracket PIREP ...climberrn

Here's my throttle cable bracket with the Superior cold air sump. Made from stainless. Needed a custom length throttle cable but the stock mixture cable and linkage worked with minimal modification to the bracket.

 

Brake pads compared - Matco, Rapco, APS

I recently bought three sets of brake pads from Matco, Rapco, and APS to get a better idea of how they compare to each other. I was halfway expecting that they would be virtually identical, but they are actually quite a bit different.

The pads below are organic compound "66-105" or "66-1050" as used on Matco RV-10 brakes.

Here are the contenders:  -->

 

Flap Motor Disconnect During Landing ...KayS UPDATE

ok folks, just came back from the airport. fixed it and made a test flight, works so far. it was not major surgery, just had to remove the side cover of the flap actuator housing and it was even not necessary to remove the rod end bearing. you can screw the actuator onto the bearing with both being in place.

i applied blue loctite (the one that is removable) on the entire length of the bearing thread, so the inner thread of the actuator and the jam nut are secured with loctite. Made sure the bearing is almost all the way in and the jam nut is tight. i put in the safety wire, this time the way the SB tells you. in my original setup the safety wire was looped around the thread of the bearing and not the bolt shank. i think it's safe to call that a brain fart. anyway...

after the fix the flaps lined up perfectly with the trailing edges of the ailerons in neutral position and full down travel was still 42*. the geometry didn't change. that leads me to the conclusion that in fact the thread engagement was sufficient in first place and both means to secure the bearing onto the flap actuator failed in my case.

one observation i made: the safety wire will move with every change of the flap motors direction. so at some point it is likely to break due to fatique.

i am not here to blame Vans design for my own mistakes, but honestly speaking... the safety wire solution as depicted in the SB doesn't appear very nice to me. for sure there should be a way to improve it but have no idea how.

i would suggest to the others to check what their safety wire is doing and if the jam nut is still tight. i don't want to exaggerate but my flaps failed on base 600 ft above the ground. imagine that happens on your final or flare close to full flap stall speed. not so cool.

Cheers
Kay

 

Mothership Stats To Date

 

Engine running poorly when cold

This may be a carb issue as I just installed a freshly overhauled carb, but want to get other thoughts. The past few starts my engine will start, then want to quit after running well for about 7-8 seconds. I find I have to run it at quite a high RPM (1300 RPM or so) or it wants to keep dying on me until it has been running for a few minutes. When it is running it is running smoothly, but just wants to die. Once it is warm the problem completely goes away. Post flight it will idle just fine.

I'm not seeing any big difference on EGT/CHT from one cylinder to another. I'm guessing I my have adjusted the carb too lean for the idle setting, but wanted to get other thoughts before I start digging.

O-360, with P-Mags (timing was checked and is good)
Sensenich GA carbon fiber prop (lightweight so not as much inertia)
Plugs are new

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Rick

 

 

November 12, 2020.  Issue #5,214.
   (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

Pic at KFFA (last weekend) ...cderk RV-10

 

Table for Fuse Build ...Ivan Kristensen's RV-14

I used the standard EAA tables for the construction and assembling the tail cone to the forward fuselage. That turned out to be the perfect solution rater than the saw horses shown in the plans.  -->


 

Table for Fuse Build ...Mark's 9A

My solution.  This has been great. A pair of adjustable horses from Home Depot. They are very solid. I made a 3ft x 8 ft top reinforced by 2x4s. See attached. They can be adjusted up and down depending on what you are working on. For the tailcone or and fuselage build it was down low. I used it to back rivet my entire tail cone.

 

Flap Motor Disconnect During Landing ...KayS

don't know where this topic belongs to... i kindly ask the moderator to move if necessary.

today was my 10th solo flight with the RV7. turned from downwind (with 10* flaps) into base with 70 - 80 knots and wanted to set full flaps. suddenly there was a small bang and the airplane made a slight sag. "Ok, something's wrong with the flaps". thought about a second to abort the landing but i realized that the problem will not fix itself, if i stay in the air longer. made the landing without flaps, flare a little bit lower and faster.

i didn't touch anything before the picture was made. you can see that the thread of the rod end bearing was engaged maybe two turns or so. it comes apart by pure staring at it and i wonder how that one lasted for around 20 landings. if you lower your flaps the flap motor has to pull on the linkage, in this case the force was enough to pull the bearing out and to tear the safety wire.

what i learned so far:

1. practising no-flap-landings is a good idea. no drama in the RV-7 (i guess all RV`s) but you just should exercise it from time to time. luckily during transistion training my CFI strongly insisted to do some landings with 0* flaps and my response was "what should go wrong these?" well...

2. during construction i was a bit anal when it came to thread engagement of rod end bearings (best is more than half of thread length), but this one i just overlooked. i will check all of them on my airplane doesn't matter if they can turn or not. these thingys tend to be used mainly on flight controls and engine stuff, areas that are kinda important.

3. during critical phases of flight one should not fuss around with technical problems. just concentrate on the next opportunity to land.

4. i thought my 7 shows really great workmanship, but that doesn't have to mean a lot. :-)

you guys take care...

 

RV-8 Travel Pod ...Vlad shows us Michael Gordillo's

 

Sliding Canopy Worries ...JurgenRoeland

I trimmed most of what needed to be trimmed and I feel like I'm ready to make "the big cut".

The rear bow fits really nicely using all he clamps, the center rear of the plexy needed only little encouragment to fit on the rear part of the center bar.
The rest of the center bar butts nicely in the plexi bubble without using any force.
On the front bow, I used a long bolt to pull the canopy latch tube in 5/8 hole in the canopy.

When I look from the front, there are some serious gaps when I clamp the side bows. The images illustrate my problem. On the right side in the picture, I can almost halfway put my index finger underneath.

I tried moving the frame around but couldn't find get a better match without creating big gaps under the top center bow.

I assume that once the canopy is split, it will be more flexible to comply with the front bow when I clamp it in place then it is now.
I have drawn a 3/32 line for the division with the frame being in the current state.

What I'm worrying about is the movement of the sides when you pull it in on the top. will I still get 1/16 to 3/32 spacing if the whole thing moves, that is the big question.In other words, can I trust my current 3/32 split line .
Before making the cut I thought I'd ask for some opinions here.


 

 

Veterans Day, 2020.  Issue #5,213.
   (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

Whereas the 11th of November 1918, marked the cessation of the most destructive, sanguinary, and far reaching war in human annals and the resumption by the people of the United States of peaceful relations with other nations, which we hope may never again be severed, and

Whereas it is fitting that the recurring anniversary of this date should be commemorated with thanksgiving and prayer and exercises designed to perpetuate peace through good will and mutual understanding between nations; and

Whereas the legislatures of twenty-seven of our States have already declared November 11 to be a legal holiday: Therefore be it Resolved by the Senate (the House of Representatives concurring), that the President of the United States is requested to issue a proclamation calling upon the officials to display the flag of the United States on all Government buildings on November 11 and inviting the people of the United States to observe the day in schools and churches, or other suitable places, with appropriate ceremonies of friendly relations with all other peoples.

-- -- June 4, 1926 (US Congress)

 

Fall Flight ...Kentsrv7a

The wife and I took a nice Sunday afternoon round robin flight from the Southeast Virginia coast to the Blue Ridge mountains and back. The fall colors were fading but the scenery was still spectacular. Besides the scenery and excellent weather we were surprised the sky wasn't more crowded. In fact there were very few aircraft to be seen or heard on the radios. Thanks Van's for enabling us to create these incredible experiences! Here's a short video of the flight. Enjoy!

 

Throttle/Mixture Cable Bracket ...John Tierney PIREP

Here's a picture of mine. If I remember, I had to grind away some material form one part of the bracket to fit around the hex nut port on the sump. I think I swapped the mixture arm and throttle arm to get clearance from the starter and get a better angle, but its been a while.

While you're down there, start planning for the starter wire routing, since you'll be installing adel clamps on a lot of the sump bolts to hold the fat wire.

 

"Faux stud mount" for avionics boxes and such? ...N546RV

As I continue to nail down placement of remote avionics boxes behind my panel, I'm wondering about mounting options. I will have four devices mounted to the aft side of my -8's baggage bulkhead; this in turn means that I'll have some fasteners projecting into the forward baggage area.

The most "natural" thing to do here would be to simply install nutplates on the forward side of the bulkhead (in the baggage area), and install screws for the boxes from the aft side. The idea of these nutplates sticking out in the baggage area doesn't bother me a ton, but it would be nice if I could avoid having little snaggy bits sticking out in there.

So I was wondering whether it'd be acceptable to instead do what I feel I can best describe as a "faux stud mount." The idea would be to install machine screws from the forward side, and secure the screws to the bulkhead using, say, AN316 thin nuts. The avionics component would then slide in place over the protruding screw shafts, and be secured with a nylock nut.

A crappy five-minute diagram of this setup is attached below. (note: I didn't take the time to depict washers in the stackup)

Is this idea 1) acceptable or 2) oh no no no don't do that?

 

 

November 10, 2020.  Issue #5,212.

More from 'My RV Weekend' ...more entries from this past weekend.



 

Fire Extinguisher in 9A ...MikeyDale's PIREP

I pondered this question for a long time 5 years ago! I wanted a convenient place for my extinguisher yet not mess up the nice clean appearance of my cockpit. Also, I needed it somewhere forward as I am a little tail heavy. I wound up mounting it on my throttle/mixture sub panel bracket. It is out of sight but I can reach down and unclip it and retrieve it without looking at it. But I do have to loosen my shoulder harness to reach it.

 

Throttle/Mixture Cable Bracket (Am I Crazy?) ...Memphis

Hey guys, I was admiring this problem for a while, and decided I really didn't want to cut the vans bracket significantly to fit it on the bottom of the sump. I got a wild hair to put the bracket on top. It makes the arm geometry a bit funky, but I found a sweet spot that allows stop to stop with smooth action. It did require a hole closer to the pivot point for the cable side to give enough throw. Does anybody see an issue using this solution? Thanks!

 

Fuel Tank Wiring ...JwWright57

Hi all, I can't find any reference for the connection of these wires. I looked through the plans and can't find anything. Where dies the Q6300 wire come from and what does it connect to? Same for the Q6073.....

 

Idler shaft mount worn, help guys this really has me spooked.

Hi guys, really need some input on this problem.

I have a IO-320 narrow deck engine with a EFII ignition and fuel injection system. I have had the idler gear shaft wear the mounting holes twice.

This engine has a O-320 case which was overhauled by Divco and put together with a new crankshaft and camshaft. I'm using a Sensenich ground adjustable propeller.

At the 191 hour mark the oil analysis showed elevated aluminum levels. Investigation discovered that the two 1/4" bolts that hold the idler shaft had broken and the bore that the idler shaft mounts into had worn.

The engine was dismantled and the case was sent to Divco who welded up the bore and re-machined it. The rest of the case was overhauled and the engine was reassembled with new bearings. I used aircraft grade bolts for the idler shaft that I sourced from aircraft specialties.

The engine now has 386 hours on it and the last oil analyst showed elevated aluminum levels again. The same problem again, this time the bolts held but their holes had worn the case. See the attached pictures.

So, I really need to figure out what is going on. The offending idler gear is only driving the camshaft.

The idler gear has been removed from the right side and the hole covered.

I'm using a 20 amp B&C alternator mounted on the vacuum pad.

Has anyone out there who is not running magnetos had similar problems?

I'd appreciate any input.

 

Cowling Install Issue ...gyoung

I was feeling pretty good that my punch list for my -6 was down to a very few items, one being paint and install the cowling. The painting is done but I can't get the lower cowling to fit between the spinner backplate and front baffles. Of course it's been on and off multiple times including with the baffles in place. I suspect I somehow never did it with the spinner backplate in place. I know the spinner and cowling have been on at the same time to check the alignment but it was so long ago I may have removed the backplate and kept working on cowl finishing. It's a Whirlwind prop FWIW.

Regardless, I'm here now and need a solution. I've tried every orientation I can think of but maybe it's some type of Chinese puzzle and I'm not holding my tongue right. The stumbling block seems to be the extension (marked on the pic) on the left intake. A possible solution is to just chop it off. Another is modifying some of the baffling to make it removable. I'm not anxious to do either. I could use some help on other suggestions and pics of how others fit. I'm going to fret over it this until a solution I can live with presents itself. Thanks for any help.

 

RV-10 VS 1014 Rear Spar Caps ...Michael36599

I finally started working on my Empennage kit today. I cut both VS 1014 Rear Spar Caps and started deburring one of them. However, when I was deburring it with my grinder, utilizing the Scotch Brite 7A MED wheel, I noticed that the wheel scraped part of the inner side (See picture) of the Rear Spar Cap. It looks like something that I shouldn't worry about, but I'll sleep better if I get an expert opinion . This also may blend in when I prep the surface for priming with the Scotch Brite pad, right?

 

 

November 9, 2020.  Issue #5,211.
  Side job sims both Sat and Sun coupled w/a slightly pulled right Latissimus dorsi made the weekend feel pretty much like a Tue and Wed :^).  Wx here was good Sat, but Sun was OVC010 until the afternoon.  Hope some of you got to RVate.
  Today I'm at (78) part time E55P sim sessions (132 days since my first one).  At (60) they give you the
ATP/CTP class as a thanky so I'm cashing in those points this week.  Expect later edition push times - possibly as late as 9-10pm.  Pacing myself for a marathon week of essentially two full-time jobs.  One cool thing is I get 8 hrs in a Falcon 50EX sim towards the end of the class.  That should be fun.
  I miss my RV-6.  Flown it 11.1 hrs so far in 2020.  41.7 hrs in 2019.  The life of a small business owner sometimes doesn't leave much free time, especially while trying to hone skills for possible side work to help out w/family $$$ down the road.  Like tens of thousands of folks still building, I'm keeping those RV juices flowing by looking at pictures in the forums, especially the ones like the top story below.  I really like those threads - they are way motivating!
  Back to the 'ol salt mine, and have a great RV week!
   (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

My RV Weekend ...many VAF'rs checking in.






 

First Flight Video RV-9A ...rockwoodrv9

The first flight in my plane was a bit different than most. I am in Michigan for a project nd my plane was in Idaho. My friend Chuck B did the last few PITA items and I went out for the DAR inspection but had to get back to MI and get the insurance worked out before we could fly.

Chuck was ready for the flight, then cracked a rib hunting so one of my other friends Rob got an hour duel to qualify for insurance. He did the first flight yesterday. Another friend Chris Chattin who build a nice 7 and flys the heck out of it went over and did a chase plane video. He just sent me the link so this is the first time I saw my plane fly!

Wow is all I can say. I feel so fortunate to have friends that helped me make this real. Seeing the plane in the air is really something.

I cant wait to get out to Idaho and get in the air!

 

First Flight ...Hans Labruyere (Netherlands)

First Flight accomplished yesterday. After some minor hick-up's an effortless flight followed. Numbers nearly EXACT according to POH - unbelievable!!  Landings smooth as a babyskin (on grass, to be honest).  99% done, now for the other 99%: things I set aside until after First Flight.   One more RV-grin in the world ;-)))))))))

 

Formation Days 2020 - Trento/Italy ...Tobias

 

I bet my bucking bar cost more than yours. Know what preflight means.

Hello everyone, as some of you may know I had a little incident while getting very close to done on my project that has delayed it a few months. Some time has passed and I'm ready to tell the story in hopes that no one else makes the same mistake.

So there I was 6 days away from final inspection and I was doing my third engine start to test a new idle setting. I had also just finished setting the last 8 rivets of the entire project while finishing the spinner installation. I have been a pilot since 2005 and have always prided myself on doing a thorough preflight and following checklists. However I made a mistake on when a preflight should be done. I was not planning on flying the plane after this engine start so I did not do a preflight. That mistake ended up costing a lot of money.  -->


 

Brad's Icing Experience

"...Coming back from a trip down south several years ago, descending through a layer at about 9,000 to my fuel stop in Sullivan, MO several years ago I accumulated what looked like perhaps 3/8" or 1/2" of rime ice on the leading edges of the wing, among other areas. Twisting around, I could see there was a good bit of ice on the horizontal as well, along with some buildup on the windshield."   -->

 

Redundancy, things to think about

Good friend was out flying his plane last week and his recently installed Garmin panel upgrade (G3x, 175, 507 ect) went dark. G5 stayed up as intended on its own backup battery. Wasn't a big deal as the Wx was good and was close to home, however this plane does IFR fairly often. This setup has a avionics master switch with a associated relay and the relay is what failed. My vote to simplify and beef up this arrangement is to replace switch & relay he has with just a heavy duty switch with locking toggle or a guard. What say ye forum wizards? I'm closing in on my own Garmin panel install.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress

 

RV-10 vs RV-14 Vertical Stab - SB related work ...TimO

I wasn't sure how to word the subject of this post, given the situation we're in today with the new Service Bulletin for rudder hinge bracket repair. But, I wanted to post this now, because I may be on to something that was missing in our RV-10 plans for many years now, and while doing the SB it would be the perfect time to remedy it. Hopefully someone from Vans will comment on this because it's got me scratching my head.  -->

 

BC462-H Spline Alt Mount on IO-540

B&C is closed so I'm hoping folks here might know. The BC462-H instructions talk about mounting the alt to the vacuum accessory pad with studs, and they give you either UNF or UNC nuts to accomplish this. Unfortunately my vac pad blocking plate seems to be attached with screws, not studs. Is it okay to use screws, torqued to the proper spec for what I'm guessing is 5/16-18 hardware (I haven't checked yet if the stud torque is different than the screw torque)?

Also, is it possible to mount this to one of the other unused accessory pads below? I recall the left one is for a mechanical fuel pump, I don't know what the right one is for but it has studs. Are the drive ratios even the same as the vac pad? Will it even fit?

 

 

November 6, 2020.  Issue #5,211.
  Wishing you a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
    (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

RV-14A SB-00027 published: Nose gear modification and part change...mothership

 

RV-9/9A Top Skin Fit ...Avoca1us

The top skin on the back of the fuse has an outward buckle in it when clecoed in place. If I let the skin follow the contour of the fuse, the holes don't line up. The skin fits fine aft of the baggage bulkhead. This is my 4th RV build, and so far this kit has been the most challenging.

 

SB-00002 for RV-10 published - rudder bottom hinge bracket ...mothership

 

Rib W-311 Connection to spar ...RV3Key (RV-3)

I have an issues with the angle bracket required to connect rib w-331 to the spar caps ( see attached photo, I hope). The distanced called from the top of the spar cap to the rivet holes is 3/8 or 6/16th. The rivets required an edge distance of 4/16, the thickness of the angle is 1/16 which totals 5/16, leaving 1/16 between the angle and the bottom of the cut section.

How ever this does not allow for the internal 1/8" radius of the 3/4x3/4 angle.
If you try to use the dimensions given, the rib does not sit correctly on the flat area of the angle.

Could I increase the 3/8" by another 1/8" to 1/2" ? This would leave 1/4" edge distance from the rivets to the top of the angle and allow more material to be removed from the rib?

Or, build as drawn and allow the rib to conform to the internal radius and put a radius in the corner of the cut out to decrease the stress from the bending the would occur in the corner?

Opinions?

 

Last Pre-Assembled Pic I Hope ...Dan Reed RV-7A

...(3) more pics in post.

 

 

November 5, 2020.  Issue #5,210.
    (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

More RV-4/3 Canopy Hold Open Latch Ideas ...jlisler

This not as elegant as some of the other options I have seen posted, but I submit that I prefer the canopy to the secured on the leading edge at least. I worry about the prop blast during run up causing the canopy to flex if only secured in the middle with a single latch. I can see that the canopy is secured without craning my neck to check it. Admittedly, my canopy is not raised than high but there is still adequate airflow. I may be the only one that does my run up with the canopy cracked open however.

 

Initial Contact....Montague Hebert

new "wanna be" builder. Lol
Hello to all.
I am new to the world of experimental aircraft and absolutely new to actually building an aircraft myself. I have mixed emotions about everything but I am assuming my feelings of anxiety and some partial guilt is new to the whole process. I am a 48 year old MSgt in the Air Force as a Jet engine Mechanic so I am by no means "rich" with money but definitely rich with hopes, commitment and dreams. I have a 16yr old, young man who is a junior in high school, an awesome athlete and is sympathetic to my dreams of building an aircraft but is always asking me, "where are you going to keep it?" not knowing I will have space at my local airport when the plane will be done. My wife says she is on board but with kind of a "sideways" knod and look. I always put my family first, but not really sure what to do. Anyone else ever ride this roller coaster before the process even started?

 

TYCO W31 Circuit Breaker Switch in Flight Failure

Flying along fat dumb and happy when all the radios started flashing off and on, eventually failing off (Day VMC fortunately). This drama was accompanied by a little electronic smoke smell. Mostly I was seeing $$$$ as the GTN650 was subjected to this power cycling event.

Trouble shooting determined that the avionics circuit breaker/switch had failed in the open position. Luckily all the $$$$ avionics were not damaged.  -->

 

RV-14 Classic Aero Install

Q: Would anyone have pics of their Classic Aero carpet & side/or side panel install prior to the seats going in?
I'm trying to determine what areas in the cockpit require finish paint.

A:


 

If You've Never Seen Al Karpinski's Build Log Photos

....you should check out the link in his posts.  Especially if you're building an RV-8.


 

Recent Mothership First Flight Additions






 

 

Wing Dent Update ...DylanRush

So I didn't really communicate to my painter that he should avoid using bondo or any other filler, and he ended up filling the dent a bit. I'll continue to monitor it, and I'm thinking that if a leak does develop then I will see it somewhere.

New wheel fairings are coming this winter - they were also severely damaged in the accident. Plane is definitely a bit slower without them.


 

 

November 4, 2020.  Issue #5,209.
    (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

Finished Cockpit ...Al Karpinski

Finished up the details / placards just today...  Got the "Smoke Switch" installed.. (Red - Left Side).  Tomorrow's Project...... Get the cabin warmer for Upstate NY winters...

 

More RV-3/4 Canopy Prop Up Ideas ...akabud

I did something similar to Scott for my RV-3. But it stays in place and pivots out of the way to close.


 

For what it's worth...RV-8 Heat thread reply

For mine, sealing up the air leakage from the back of the canopy took some time... A cover on the back of the canopy frame helped a lot as did some weatherstripping and fuzzy velcro under the skirt...

The single weatherstrip under the canopy frame bow still had a gap at the centre which would blow on the back of the GIB's neck which necessitated the additional foam in front of the bow. Quite effective but not the prettiest...

I used two muffs (but from mufflers in my case) and two air-boxes, the left one to the pilot's feet, and the right one mounted in the rear of the baggage well blowing to the back seat. The plastic valve shown melted and was replaced with a 2" aluminum fitting, works just fine throttled from the air-box.

If you really want heat the real solution is mufflers, but that may not be feasible with your 4 pipe system...

 

Attaching Radio/GPS Racks ....more discussion/ideas

With only one rack mounted radio this method may be overkill but it is definitely rigid.

 

Best Route Across Southern Rockies ...a discussion

 

Rudder horn hole elongation

Started to work on my RV-14A rudder recently and while final drilling the rudder horn (R-405PD) to bottom rib/spar assembly, I noticed my holes were slightly elongated (between 0.010" to 0.020"). Not sure how this happened, but I know this is out of spec for AN470AD4 rivets (0.125"-0.135" hole size). Anyone know if this is still OK or if it's possible to drill these out to AN470AD5 rivets? Or should I just scrap these and do them over? I have sent an email to Van's as well, so hoping to hear back from them soon.

 

Rate my avionics kit.... please

Looking for any suggestions on the following list of avionics. We're building an IFR platform that can go cross country safely. We're not looking to fly hard IFR all the time, but want the capability in case we get caught somewhere. Our goal is 2 independent COM radios, GPS primary nav, NAV radio backup. Its all going in an RV7.

GDU 460 10.6" G3X Touch x 2
GNX 375 ADS-B XPNDR & WAAS GPS
GNC 255 Nav/Comm w/ VOR/ILS
GMA 245R Remote mount comm panel/bluetooth receiver
G5 Backup Display
GTR 20 Remote Comm
GSA 28 AP Servos x 2
GMC 305 AP Control Head
GEA 24 EIS
GAD 27 Adapter
GAD 29 ARINC 429 Link
GAP 26 AoA Probe  -->

 

Fuel Leak right gear fairing

This seems to be most prevalent when tank is full.  I would have a better idea of what is going on if I were the builder.  But I'm not.  Anyone have this happen or have an idea how to figure out of fix?   Hoping I dont have to remove wing.

 

 

November 3, 2020.  Issue #5,208.
    (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

Fall Colors ...lucaperazzolli (Italy)

The fall colors in my region are wonderful.  There are some photos that become magical thanks to the eye of a good photographer with a very keen eye for details. Enjoy!  (photo credit Daniel Bertagnolli)

 

DIY Paint Air Dehydrator ...Carl Froehlich

Progress made on painting the new RV-8. So far it has gone well. Fuselage and wings are done, now waiting of a few warmer days to finish up the remaining pieces and parts.

As you that have painted a plane know, getting moisture out of the paint air is critical and not all that easy to do. I have three drains on the air system of copper pipes that alway run with an up slope. The final trap is in the attached photo. This is a simple thing to make, 50' of tubing coiled in a Walmart plastic tube with water and a couple of jugs of ice floating in them. It is amazing how much water comes out of it. Air goes in the top of the coil, the drain is on the bottom of the PVC pipe - extending out of the tub, the hole sealed with flox. Note the air hose coming out of the tub and going into the paint booth also runs up hill.  -->

 

N408ZW.... 164 hrs 1st Annual Condition Inspection completed

...mlinett. 

N408ZW has flown 164 hours in its first year. Myron Nelson told July and I that the RV10 was the best plane he ever flew. After a year of flying it I have to agree with him. Myron and Justin Wylie provided us a lot of help while building and debugging the plane in the last year.

 

My RV Weekend

(pazmanyflyer) ...So this happened today <g>


(N546RV) Today I did some panel cutting. Cutouts are done for both screens, the com radio head, and the AP & knob panels. Still got to finish out the other two cutouts, for the GPS-175 and intercom. Once those are done and I verify everything lines up nicely, it'll be time to drill mounting screw holes and get the nutplates done.

 

Attaching radio/GPS rack to panel

Q: I'm currently in the process of cutting the panel for my -8. This question specifically pertains to mounting the Garmin GPS-175 in my panel - the only rack-mounted item I have to deal with. The -175 manual has diagrams for the panel cutout, but doesn't seem to have much in the way of guidance for actually securing the rack to the panel.

In fact, all I see is "Install the rack in the instrument panel with six #6-32 flat head screws and six self-locking nuts," referring to the screw holes in the sides of the rack. I assume it's my responsibility to create some sort of structure adjacent to the rack for this purpose.

Anyone got any photos/info on how they skinned this particular cat? I was originally thinking of a couple pieces of sheet, extending along the sides of the rack, and with a bent flang that would rivet to the panel - but I've got components on either side of the -175, and thus not a lot of material there to mount something like this, so I think I'll have to get a bit more creative.

A:

 

Windscreen Fairing Radius

I just about have my canopy/windscreen whipped. Im doing all SikaFlex. no fiberglass fairing. I noticed I used a 2 inch radius instead of 4 inches Vans recommended. Pictures attached. Anyone else use 2 inches?

 

6A Nose Fork

Q: Can someone identify the part number for this nose fork?

A: There is a measurement that is required to accurately identify the fork, HERE is the link to the Vans service bulletin that will help with identification.  Based on the photo it looks like it is a WD-630. But needs to be measured to be certain.

 

Nov/Dec FAA Safety Briefing is Online ...PDF

 

Pics of Scott Hersha's RV-4 Ventilation-On-Ground Setup

I made a small bracket to hold my canopy open slightly for ventilation on the ground. It fits into the forward canopy latch tube hole in the instrument panel using a hardware store bolt, washers, and nuts with the threads covered with a couple layers of shrink tubing. He hold open hole on the bracket has an appropriately sized snap bushing in it. Pictures tell the story. Works very well, and obviously easy to make:



 

 

November 2, 2020.  Issue #5,207.
  Good morning!  Hope you got to spend some quality time with your RV this weekend.  Halloween 7pm, when some kids were knocking on our door, I looked out in the driveway and saw a dad wearing an 8' tall clown monster costume.  Scared the livin' piss out of me - but I got a pic (and yes that's a nearly full moon over his shoulder).
  As you know it's a dynamic political week in the USA, so I wanted to remind everyone that there is no discussion of politics on this site.  No exceptions.  This might be the only spot on earth where you can get away from it for a little bit.  By design. ;^).
  (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

My First Solo! ...Geoff Winslow is the new owner of G. Palinkas' RV-6

Hi All,  Happy to report not only my first solo flight today, but my first solo flight in Sassy! Many heartfelt thanks to Gary for building such an incredible aircraft and for helping to share that RV Grin with me!

 

Vlad Grass Strip Entry....many pics

Boulder Utah UFO Landing Site.  Here is another cool one. Boulder Airstrip Utah near Grand Staircase-Escalante National monument.

 

Not a bad first XCountry Nav

I was in the right place right time a couple of months ago and was offered a share in an RV6A. Needless to say after a half hour flight with the owner I was in!

Since then work and weather have conspired to ensure that I've only managed to get checked out and do some circuits.

But today I was passing the airfield and the weather gods were smiling. A short navex planned to pass around Edinburgh and go to wave to the kids.

Cleared through the Edinburgh Zone "not above 2000 feet" - as if I needed an excuse to get down to a safe but pleasant height.

I had to orbit North of the airport while an A320 made an approach so I offer this as my first photo post on VAF (if it works...)

 

RV-9A Make Over ...Sibirsky

...many pics

 

20,000 Hours on RVs....

 

Close Call Video ...rv8ch

Flying along today, fat, dumb, and happy, looking at balloons flying in the area. Was heading west at 4500 ft then decided to change directions to the north east, and initiated a climb to 5500 ft. Crossing about 5000 ft almost got smacked by someone coming in the other direction.  -->

 

Bang/grinding noise when flaps start moving

Hi all,
Curious if anyone else has seen something like this: when my (9A) flaps start to go down, there's a quick "bang" or very brief grinding noise, I'm not sure which. No noise throughout the rest of the motion, and if I return them to up and go back down again, the noise won't repeat until several minutes elapse in the up position (either on the ground or in flight).  -->

 

2021 Mothership Calendars Now Available to Order

 

Ruh-roh: firewall flange to bottom skin rivets

Here's something I probably should have done before I mounted my engine. The firewall-to-skin rivets just behind and beneath the gear attach bolts on the "new tricycle gear" engine mount are going to be impossible to buck. The other ones along the bottom between the bolts are going to be difficult but probably not impossible. Looks like at least a couple of these will have to be pop rivets. Any other ideas that don't involve removing the engine and engine mount?  -->

 

Putting the Wings On - All the Little Gotchas! ...chris mitchell RV-4

I haven't posted here for ages, although I have made a lot of building progress. I will answer some of the questions that I haven't dealt with and put some other info on the fuselage build in a separate post, as this post is intended to document what I have discovered about putting the wings on.

At the time of writing the wings are built, fuselage, empennage and all control surfaces complete and paint applied. The aircraft is now in a nice shiny hangar and the empennage had been mounted. So - on with the wings.  -->

 

Milestone: 1,200 Hours ...Brad Benson

 

Early exhaust valve failure? Need Advice

Hi
I just did a oil change and clean and gap the sparks plugs. I always use the scope when I remove spark plug. I found something that could look like a beginning of a hot spot on a valve cylinder no 1 ( upper part of the valve on first picture) ?  -->

 

November Wallpaper Calendar ...Vlad

 

Technical Counselor Program Survey


 

My RV Weekend ...various



 

Wind Shear Video Data Plot ...Vac update

 

 

October 30, 2020.  Issue #5,206.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)
 

My RV Weekend ...pgroell (France)

To do some formation training, Tobias, Moritz and I met in Colmar (LFGA).  First flight was delayed as during taxi out my right tire deflated completely.  Fortunately, Tobias had a spare tube, with the available tools and the compressor from the fire truck (did you know they have a compressor on board ?) We managed to be ready to fly within one hour.

We were able to make two two ship flights (with filed flight plans as our area of operations was transborder with Germany above the Rhine river).
A short three ship flight ended the day before we headed home.

 

Chisholm Trail Flight Plan Update

I used the 1933 map HERE alongside my iPhone running GP (OpenStreetMap layer) and have entered, to the best of my ability, waypoints along the Chisholm Trail as they existed in Oklahoma.   I'm continuing to look for similar historical maps for Texas and Kansas.  When I get this project finished I plan on hosting a downloadable flight plan here on the site if others want to download it.

The plan is to load this up in the GPS, select NAV, punch in an offset of a mile or so to the right of course, then spend (2) 2-hr legs in the RV-6 someday looking slightly to the left as I cover in a day what often took two months.

I'll keep you in the loop. 


Where it crosses the Red River...

PS:  VAF needs to have an area where you can download famous (or historically significant) flight plans and ground routes.  First transcontinental flight, air mail routes, Lewis and Clark expedition, Chisholm Trail, etc.   I'll think on this some more...might be the start of something beautiful.

 

Boot Cowl Blues ...Freemasm (rocket)

Location = Boot cowl to fuse side skin joint

Having a b*&%! of a time getting the fuse skin to "lay down" after installing the doubler for the boot cowl. Any knowledge that can be shared would be appreciated.

Looking forward. What methods/materials did you use to WX proof the boot cowl along the top of the firewall and Instrument panel bulkhead? A bunch of expensive avionics/electronics will be underneath, obviously.

Much thanks.

Views looking (mostly) down.

 

High #4 EGT ...Rollout34

I'm looking for a little help to figure out why my number 4 EGT is usually 100 degrees hotter that my other EGT's. I have a RV6a with an IO-320 160hp Lycoming engine with an Advanced 5600 10" screen that shows all 4 EGT's and all 4 Cyc head tempts.

I have owned this airplane for 4 months and use it to commute to work. My commute is normally 3.5 hour flight. I usually fly between 8000' and 12000' msl. This is a new problems that just started with the last 2 weeks.

I usually fly lean of peak using Mike Buschs information and I realize he says not to worry about Higher EGT's. However my #4 EGT is much higher than the others. Yes, the cylinder tempt is well within limits at 343 with the EGT being 1458 (in the Red). (#1 330/1365, #2 357/1380, #3 353/1320, #4 343/1458) its certainly annoying since it sets the alarms off on the display screen both visual and audio. The number #4 EGT has recently went above 1500, above the limits on my screen. I was at 11300 msl and an OAT of 40F, on last weeks flight. Yesterday, taking off and flying at 2500 msl I saw almost a 200 degree difference in tempts. #4Cyl head of 339 (good) with an EGT of 1551 super high. The other 3 EGTs were 1376/1393/1331. 3 hours later into the flight at 8500msl an OAT of 52F #1 329/1380, #2 351/1383, #3 350/1328, #4 341/1495.

Can I clean or replace the probe? or is there other trouble shooting that I should look at?

V/R Brent

 

A Collection of AFS Panel Install Pics ...SPX

(173) of them to be precise.

 

DIY Dehydrator ...avrojockey

Well...on the recommendations of others I built one. I really wanted to fork out the cash but no-one makes a closed-loop system anymore. Here's what I did after a couple modifications.  -->

 

Page 28-3 step 3 Forward Fuse, countersinking the F-1042 bulkhead side channel ...YankeeBravo RV-10

lnstructions are : Machine countersink the nutplate screw holes. See Page 13-3, Figure 2 for details of the countersunk hole.

Page 13-3 gives you a quite deep countersunk using the nutplate hole as a guide which is not the case on 28-3 as the nutplate is not yet installed. Why are those countersink different (deeper) from the one done on F-1005C-L channel as the side cover covering both seems to use same method of attachment ?

Also why is the middle hole of those 5 holes countersunk as the mid cabin side covering it will not be dimpled ? For me the middle hole does not need to be countersunk at all ?

Maybe someone can help

 

Mobile Tool Set-Up ...mfleming

 

 

October 29, 2020.  Issue #5,205.
  Has anyone flown their RV the length of the Chisholm Trail from South Texas to Abilene, KS?  I was recently listening to the Waco History Podcast in the car on how barbed wire changed the cowboy world (listen), and they had a supporting map from 1873 (see it full size).  That sent me down the research wormhole, and a possible day trip in the RV-6 that wouldn't break the budget.
  For those RVators around N.TX, between Denton and Decatur there is a spot that crosses Oliver Creek (right here) where I've heard over the years from more than one source to be a feeder branch crossing spot on the Chisholm.  It's right in the yellow band on page 23 HERE.  Some of the eyewitness reports said the herds were a mile wide.  Just amazing.  I start a 10-day sim-a-palooza here in a day or so with varied report times, and I'm gonna find waypoints and start building a flightplan in GP during the down times.
  I need to do this...I mean it runs right by my town for corn's sake.
  (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)


(full size)

1933 map of trail through Oklahoma.
Oklahoma Historical Society.

(full size)


(full size)


(Denton County and the Chisholm Trail)
23 page PDF.

 

Ducting Fun ...bjdecker

Next step, measure Delta P in Plenum/Cowl Bottom and Plenum/Face of Oil Cooler. Depending upon the differences I'll change to a 4" duct first...then maybe a larger cooler. I'd like to have a bit more margin for those hot day/long climbs.

Attached pic is a transition that I whipped up last night.

 

Phase 1 flight testing not allowed at airport

Airport manager is saying he doesn't think phase 1 flight testing is allowed at his airport. I'd like to know this for sure. I think I read people can be given transition corridors in some circumstances?

Who should I be talking to about this? Is this a question for my FSDO?

I'm still cranking on the fuse kit so I have time to figure something out. Exactly what--I don't know.

I can't help but be a bit bummed after waiting on the hanger list for almost 6 years. It felt like hangar plans were coming together until now lol. That and I've found that the airports in my immediate vicinity in Utah are not really GA friendly. Especially when it comes to hangars.

 

Sunset Flying ...Juliano Selvatici picture

 

And Then There Was Vlad's Weekend ;^)

 

 

October 28, 2020.  Issue #5,204.
  DZ, BR, OVC and RA all day in N.TX - everyone grounded.  No fun in Vanville.  Alternate plan: I spent an hour changing a water thermostat on the family truckster Tuesday before climbing back on the computer (MIL came on yesterday during the drive home.  P0128 error).  Airplane tools, hangar space and a mop made reasonably quick work of it.  Back home later the 'ol forums were hopping - 778 people online as I'm pulling the Wednesday edition together.  Should reach the 30,000 registered accounts milestone in about a month and a half if new signups continue at the current rate.  I think interest in the hobby is robust!
  Thanks again for goofing off at work and making this place here so special.
  Missing those clear skies...  ;^)
  (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)

 

Flying to All 48 Lower States w/my Son ...larrynew collage

 

I may have a sticky valve ...Steve Melton

no engine roughness after start.... but after takeoff, cylinder #1 CHT and EGT both do not rise with the others for the past couple of flights. it takes cylinder #1 about 5 minutes to "catch up" in temperature to the others. this is different than in the past, where all cylinders would heat up uniformly. I may have a sticky valve on cylinder #1. at 850 hours on the engine, I have never done a wobble test. I have only removed the valve covers once to "look" in there. I read Mike Bullock's "sticking exhaust valve" guide and maybe I can do it. I sent Darrell at Superior a question about proper reamer size for my O-320. Mike used a .4995 for his IO-360. anyway, at least I should learn how to do a wobble test. it seems like the proper thing to do while the Winter weather is rolling in early.

 

Oh, The Places You Will Go ...Jvon881's Fav RV Memory

Having grown up on a grass strip with a Cessna 140 and CFI Dad, pancake breakfasts and summer evenings were as good as it got. As a young(er) professional pilot almost to the 10k hour mark, I went through a phase viewing airplanes as tools. I've started to view airplanes differently lately as to their usefulness and where they can take you, physically and mentally.

Truly, Van's "Total Performance" moniker and all the memories I've collected because of RV-4 N249P's abilities.  -->

 

Wing Root Fuel Hook-up ...ChattanoogaRV

I just test fit everything from TS Flightlines in my wing root for the pre-filter to the SDS EFII. Couldn't be happier with the fit up and the support from both Tom and Steve. You will note one screw that will be part of the lower wing root cover is used to hold the Adel clamp. I just used a longer screw and am adding a lock nut to it. I have not ran the engine yet but have a high confidence in what I see and in what I am hearing from other tests. I'll add to the post when I run the fuel flow test.

 

Ohio River and Holloman AFB ...Steve Melton's RV Weekend

I took a photo of the biggest switch back I have ever seen on the Ohio river at Evansville. A bad photo of Holloman AFB with White Sands in the distance (restricted airspace all around).... 2PM in the afternoon, white dust swirling all around. Holloman AFB has a branch of the German Air Force there. Also, a photo of Alamogordo NM.  -->

 

Lazy Susan Workbench Plans for Smaller Shops? ...some words and pics.



 

 

October 27, 2020.  Issue #5,203.
  Rob Reece working on his RV-8 Monday out at the hangar (below).  He's really making some progress on his RV and we expect a first flight not that far off in the future.  Very happy for my friend and just gorgeous work!
  (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)

 

Mile high wedding in the -4 ...fixnflyguy

We did our wedding in the -4 at 5,280 feet, formation of 4 aircraft over our home airport of 8A7..after the traditional "over the radio" I do's, and we were pronounced husband and wife, I was given the permission, "You may now roll your bride". The rest is history!


 

New Member / Ordered the RV8 Quick Build Kit

Hi Guys,
My name is Joe and I live on the east end of Long Island, Mattituck. I am retired military (10 years on active duty in the Army, retiring from the Air National Guard, 10 years ago). I started my military career as a Crew Chief and helicopter mechanic (3 years) and then attended Warrant Officer Candidate Flight School. I have flown Hueys, Chinooks and Blackhawks and I'm a low time fixed wing pilot. I am currently still flying E.M.S, Astars and EC-145's. I have never even seen an RV-8 in person but have spent hundreds of hours researching them and decided on the RV8 QB kit. I will definitely have my work cut out for me because in the military there are sheet metal guys, spark chasers and hydraulics techs for the different aircraft. I am in the process of organizing my detached 2 car garage (climate controlled) and will be buying the tools shortly. I plan on getting the project kits and I ordered the 2 wiring books recommended on this site. I have a friend who is an outstanding AP mechanic and IA, he will be helping me along the way, with the guidance of this site. I am looking forward to this project, meeting people along the way and anticipate it to be a long haul.

 

Cracked steps ...skiandtom

I experienced a cracked starboard side step on my RV-7A. I discovered it while preflighting the airplane. I knew cracks can occur so part of my preflight procedure is to run my finger under the step at the inside top of the step where the cracks normally occur. After pondering the removal process, I decided removing the entire baggage area floor was not necessary. So after studying the applicable drawing I decided to cut a small oval shaped hole over the inner bolt retaining the step. I have an oval shaped panel to pop rivet over the hole.  -->

 

My RV Weekend ....continues

(hgerhardt) After the light rain this morning, it cleared up nicely late afternoon with downtown LA and Long Beach with Queen Mary in the sun.

(dafast1)  after breakfast at CES6, I took a look at the Sifto salt plant at Goderich on Lake Huron... first flight after 50 hour inspection since bringing it home 10 weeks ago

(pazmanyflyer) No OSH so used my vaca for building time instead. Actaul time was Monday thru Sunday.

(bruceh) I took my daughter out to Payson, AZ to camp overnight. The trip out was great and the weather was perfect there. Getting back to SoCal was a bit of an adventure due to the winds and rain around San Diego and the coastal mountains.

 

Mothership Odometer ...as of 10/26/2020

 

 

October 26, 2020.  Issue #5,202.
   Saturday I did two check rides at the part-time right seat Phenom sim gig and Sunday the Wx decided to crump a little earlier than forecast, spoiling my planned RV hop (sad face).  Hope the Wx was better in your neck of the woods and you got some time off the surface.  We're in store for three days of yuck here - I guess I'll start tearing down the RV for its annual if I get out.
  Vlad, the pic you took below needs to be the November wallpaper calendar if you have a larger version and are OK with that.  BEAUTIFUL picture!!! 
  (Need a Phenom 300 contract pilot occasionally?)

 

Locomotive Springs, Utah ...Vlad RV-6A

This is recently reopened - a transcontinental airmail route airport. Two intersecting runways are in good shape even for our smaller wheels. Stunning extraterrestrial views on the way to the airstrip.  --> (many pics)

 

First Flight ...Brent

Today I took my new build RV8 up for its first flight. It was a little gusty, but the aircraft handled it beautifully. It flew as expected. No aileron or rudder trim needed, and jumped of the ground after a very short ground run. My previous RV was a 9a which was impressive. The 8 is even more so....so far! The 3 point landing was ok, but that was before I read the discussion about the difficulties of 3 pointing it here tonight.

Five years building well spent! Regards to all Brent

 

VAF Data Move / Forums TPS Report

Over the last 30 days or so:

  • Migrated all data from ISP to a cloud based environment (AWS)
  • Switched OS from Windows Server to latest version of Linux
  • MySQL and PHP upgraded to latest versions.
  • Image hosting enabled (along with PDF attachments).
  • Stored PM limit increased by 100%
  • Queries now nearly instantaneous

In the next 30 days or so:

  • Forums upgrade from v3.6.8 to v5.6.2.  It's gonna be greeeeeeaaaaaat...

There are some fiddly bits that we know are not performing 100% (search, encoding fonts issue, etc) but those have to do with running older forum software with newer back end software. These will get addressed in the newer v5.X forum software.  It's wasting resources to work on fixing those when we're upgrading soon anyway.

Bill Kervaski (RV-14A) has been indispensable with these improvements. He has a full time job, and my calendar is really crowded next week with side work, so the move to the latest and greatest forum software might take a few weeks. It could take two months. It could take one month. Many moving parts and both life and work are fluid and crazy at the current time, so thanks for understanding.  I'm purchasing the most current forum software shortly to begin testing.

We're solid enough right now to hold us over while we install, configure and test a parallel copy of the new stuff in the background.  We'll get there I promise, and it'll be nice. Hang tough, enjoy both the faster environment and image hosting in the mean time and stay safe.  More to come...

Thanks again to Bill and his mad tech skills.

v/r,

 

Milestone: Engine Hung ...Draker

"2020-10-24: Engine mounted (thank you wjb)"

 

So This Happened....bill.hutchinson

I took delivery on my RV6A today. Picked it up in TX this morning. Presently bedding down for the night in KY but will make it back to MD by lunchtime, I think.  I'm very happy.

Huge big thanks to a few people 'round these parts - notably Carl Froelich and Robert Schapler.

And especially Gary Brown - who saved me from multiple potentially costly mistakes.

Finally - Roy Geer for giving me the appropriate advice and guidance to keep me from mangling the airplane in my first few hours.

And Mike- I'll take very good care of her.

 

Basement Build Thoughts ...and options.

[ed. David Brody chimes in (and a walk down memory lane with Dan Reeves' RV build).  v/r,dr]

 

Ash (?) deposits on spark plugs using auto gas?

Seeking knowledge ...

I have an RV-6 with a 150hp (7:1 compression) O-320 E2D. Dual slick mags, L is 120 since new, R is 160 since overhaul. Champion REM40E plugs. Absolutely stock in configuration as far as I know. Engine is 980 SMOH (many years ago). Compressions were good at last annual 10 months and 60 hrs ago. Starts, idles, runs smoothly historically. Uses 1-2 quarts between oil changes every 40 hrs.  -->

 

Milestone: Fuse Has Paint ...dreed

Time to start putting her back together I guess

 

New Builder Initial Contact

I would first like to introduce myself to the group. My name is Lester and am a fairly new pilot (PPL 5/20) located in Western Kentucky. So I purchased a well known RV-10 kit that was in the classifieds here on VAF back in July and have been reading a ton since then but have not started the project yet. I wanted to start and complete my IFR rating first and I passed my check ride last Friday. I am now starting at the beginning of the plans and going step by step until I get to where the kit stopped. I am looking forward to what's to come and am willing to take any suggestions along the way. I just can't wait to see N10LP in the air.

 

My RV Weekend ...various.

Early Winter in MN

Harter Flying Field Fly-in/Drive-In

David's insulated digs...

 

Kitplanes Article on the -14A ...pushed out 10/24 if you haven't seen it

 

McFarlane Press Release

FMI: mcfarlaneaviation.com

 

 

October 23, 2020.  Issue #5,201.

Over to KXBP and back for gas ($2.99) Thursday morning before going in for a couple of extra Phenom paper routes in the evening.  Was planning on a Friday flight but the TAF showed high winds and rain Friday so I moved up the plans.  Always nice to RVate when the sched and conditions allow - take it when you can get it ;^).

ATTN Jet Folks:  Another shot in the dark if there is anyone reading this that knows how I can get (3) landings in a Phenom 300 w/o selling an arm.  Will travel via airline to you.  Three landings and I get my SIC (I already have the endorsement through the part time sim work).  Getting this is turning out to be difficult.  Any and all help appreciated.  Fingers always crossed...

Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
 
(Need a contract pilot?)

Note: Please excuse the early push on Friday's edition.  Extra job for bills.

 

Vernatherm Woes

Now that PlaneKool is working so well, I've been venturing into warmer locales where pre-A/C, I just didn't bother to fly. But now, oil temps are making regular excursions to 225*+ F. I set up a test by using my Bluetooth HVACR refrigerant line temp probes to measure oil cooler (OC) inlet/outlet temps and compared those to indicated on my G3X. During warmup, I saw that the OC inlet was measuring within 3*F of indicated, which gave me some confidence of the BT probe's accuracy with the less-than-ideal clamp arrangement on a hex nut. Found that indicated temp was only 6*F cooler than OC inlet temp and that there was 16F delta of OC inlet/outlet, indicating the Vernatherm (VT) wasn't doing a good job. Problem found! Or so I thought...  -->



 

Static Source Variation ....update

I did a couple more tests.

1. I taped some yarn tuffs to see how turbulent the flow was preceding the static port. Here's the video... You can tell it's more turbulent towards the top half of the fuselage...I'm guessing the targa strip (over and 0.125" thick) is causing some rough air. Not sure if this amount of turbulence could cause enough pressure variation to be picked up by the static port and indicated on the G3X.

2. Instead of using a gauge snubber to even out the indication I used an "accumulator" courtesy of a Vitamin Water bottle (see pic) This size bottle removed the VS variations just like the .004" snubber did, also with a slight lag in VS indication. The same lag one would encounter with the alternate static air selected.


I'm starting to think switching the static line from 1/2" vinyl tube to 1/4" poly has made my VS indication more sensitive to the pressure pulses caused by the turbulence around the static port.


 

RE: the 'Need More Giddy Up' Thread from Yesterday

[Van emailed me the following to add to the conversation.  v/r,dr]
 


 

-3B Project Update ...David Paule

One thing that I needed to do was finalize the conceptual design for the hold-open link. Right now that's planned to be a bar, pivoted on the aft fairing frame cross-member 5" radius from the canopy hinge pin. In the picture below, those are the white lines. The link is the blue lines, and close to where they cross will be the sliding connection to the aft seat bulkhead. Virtually all other geometries caused the link to interfere with either the harness or the seat back.

The tentative idea is to have the top end of the link have a notch that drops over part of the sliding connection fitting. A spring will add assurance that it will stay there, and it ought to open and come to a stop and stay there. To close the canopy, lift the link past its catch and then close the canopy.

Yes, this will protrude above the turtledeck and be visible, regrettably. But it'll be under the canopy rather than in the outside air.

Possible link shapes: either a flat aluminum bar or a tube similar to the canopy latch but with different end terminations.  -->

 

Acft Spruce Com antenna for experimentals install

I bought a Yaesu handheld to supplement the single comm radio in my RV12 in case of failure and I would like to install a separate antenna for it. Aircraft Spruce has a $45 antenna that I think will be good enough for occasional use. The installation instructions are somewhat sparse, as can be seen in the (hopefully) attached image.

I have a couple of questions. I am assuming that the physical installation will require a backing plate as the skin of a 12 is very thin. I'm also thinking that I will need a mounting hole matching the diameter of the area of the Delrin nut with the #2 arrow pointing at it, and the steel nut threaded onto the end of the antenna will be tightened and secured to hold the antenna in place.

With regards to wiring, I think the copper wire referenced in the installation instructions is the center wire of the coax cable, and it will be twisted around the threaded portion of the antenna indicated by the #1 arrow and it will be captured as the Delrin nuts are forced together. If that is the case, does anything need to be done with the braided shield wire of the coax cable? If that is not the case, how should it be done?

The other end of the coax already has a BNC connector on it, so that part seems to be ready to go.

 

 

October 22, 2020.  Issue #5,200. (Need a contract pilot?)
 

Ducts Matter

Years ago, after the original baffle-mounted SW 8406R oil cooler (OC) cracked the baffle a couple of times, the 2nd time also cracking a flange of the OC, I 'upgraded' to a remote-mounted SW 10599R fed by 4" SCAT into a little box plenum. That installation was hardly any better temp-wise than the original one, but passable except on very hot days. Well, decided to figure out how to improve on that.

Installed a pair of Bluetooth manometer probes and characterized first the upper/lower cowl deltaP, (7" WC at 155 KTAS) and then upper cowl/face of OC. Found the duct lost 3" WC, or almost half of available pressure! Wow, SCAT sucks. Measured the OC location-to-baffle relationship and designed new ducts with turning vanes and a bellmouth to be 3d printed from nylon-12 via HP MJF process.

Installed and flew with that and holy cow! I now have 0.85" OC duct deltaP, which is a huge improvement. According to the SW performance charts, that improvement ought to increase heat rejection from 350 to 420 BTU/min, or ~20% improvement. Hasn't been warm enough lately to really test the cooling improvement, but one thing is clear: the oil cools off significantly faster in descent than it did before. Also, #3 CHT is now ~10F cooler, despite stealing more of its cooling air. Apparently more air blowing over the tops of the fins helps.

 

Need More Giddy Up ...BH1166

I own a 28 year old 6A with a O320 with a 28 year old Bernie Warnke almost constant speed wood prop. Prop is 72 x 72, urethane edge, and is in like new condition. Prop is great at cruise, 7 gallon an hour at 2350 rpm / 150 TAS. Static 2400 rpm, WOT 2480 rpm. On a budget, aka I'm a tight wad. Would like to improve takeoff ( takes a long time/ distance to get to rotate speed) maybe better climb as well.

Question, could someone in the wood prop business, cut this prop down to ??? in to increase rpm and enhance TO roll / climb with minimal impact my cruise?

 

Importation question

I appear to be at the tail end of my ownership of my RV6A, as my medical is currently suspended and not likely to be returned in the near future.

So I have a question for those more knowledgeable than I regarding the importation of these aircraft from Canada into the US. I know the basics, but the wrinkle in the case of my aircraft is that it was built in the US, issued a Special Airworthiness Certificate, and then deregistered when I imported it into Canada in 2011. I still have the original Certificate and Operating Limitations. In fact, they're still in a pocket in the airplane; I left them there as a bit of a tribute to the builder.

So what would be involved in sending this plane back to the US? Obviously there are a lot more potential buyers south of the border than on my side, so I would like to be able to give interested Americans well-informed answers as to what might be involved.

Thanks in advance. And, as a side note, if my time as an RV owner and pilot is coming to an end, I have to say that I have no idea how I would have, or could have, coped with the experience of owning, flying, and maintaining my plane for the past 9 years without this forum. I wouldn't even have known where to start. My sincere thanks to Doug and every single person who ever responded to my dumb questions, or wrote a post with info I needed that I found through Search over the years. There aren't words for how valuable your help has been.

 

Drilling a new tail knuckle to an existing stinger (DanH PIREP)

 

All Buttoned Up ...rockwoodrv9

Here is a little better picture of the plane with all the parts back on. Holy smokes, I cant believe how many panels and screws there were to put it all back together after the inspection.

 

 

October 21, 2020.  Issue #5,199. (Need a contract pilot?)
 

Milestone: First Flight ...Dave Setser RV-7

Our RV flew for the first time this weekend. Big thanks to Mike Henning (RV-4, KASH) for shooting the videos!

 

N800MF Takes Flight ...ConAgraPilot

Yesterday was a special day for two reasons, the first is it was my 50th birthday and the second was it was the day my 7 year, 7 month and 15 day RV-8 slow build took flight. The flight was thoroughly planned out with the help of airshow performer, LD Jefferies who would fly chase for the flight. Taxi out, takeoff and the subsequent 1 hour flight went smooth without any flying issues. Ailerons trailed evenly and no heavy wing. The IO-375 from AeroSport powered the Hartzell composite propellor and felt like a rocket with its performance. All engine indications were perfect and the engine break in went smooth. The RV grin is a real thing...and I have it!

The paint scheme is in honor of the P-51 Man O'War from the 334th FS.

I want to say thank you to my mentor, repeat RV-8 offender and Lindy winner, Glenn Vokac, for his friendship and guidance!

Thank you to LD Jefferies from Lil Devil Airshows for your chase/wingman skills!  More Pics

 

Milestone: Finally a Real Plane! ...rockwoodrv9

It has been 8 pretty long years but the DAR inspected and passed my 9A this morning. Without the help of Chuck Brietigam, I would not have finished. flyinmonque (Dave) gave me my first ride and several rides since and checked in on me over the years to make sure I didnt give up. Vlad visited me a few times to encourage me and just to say hi. Thanks to the Colorado gang too.

I look forward to the first flight. I wish I was qualified, but smart enough to let Chuck break it it!

Thanks VAF and Doug for the help received from so many and to the guys that have sent me checklists and POH manuals for me to modify - that is a huge help!

 

RV-4 Side Panel / Armrest ...Bill E.

I made some very simple .020" sidepanels with integrated arm rests for my -4 that screw to the longerons and some little attach angles I riveted to the floor. Covers all the cables/wires and flap linkage as well as making a very clean light finished look. All weigh less than 5 lbs.

 

Milestone: Fuse on Order ...Scott Emerson RV-14A

After starting my 14A 3 years ago, and having to almost no time to work on the project over the last year and a half, I am finally at the point where I am ready for the fuse kit!

Wing kit is nearly finished and with the 14 week lead time, I should be able to finish up all the small things just in time to receive the new kit! Looking forward to getting this phase complete and finally joining the two halves together!

 

My RV Weekend....rcsilvmac

Rudderless plane.  This weekend my RV-6A lost it's tail for an upgrade. Stiffening the horizontal stabilizer.

 

Aunt Bee and Pretty Respectable Pics From a Phone

Saturday I got the RV off the surface for 30min, and while I was airborne I checked in with Scorch on the ground for two seconds.  Monk heard this exchange and chimed in he was twenty miles or so away in a '58 C172 he is working on.  Randy calls this plane 'Aunt Bee' because in season 8 of the Andy Griffith show Aunt Bee takes flying lessons in a '56 C182 - close enough (episode synopsis).  Nice square tail.

Anywho, over to a discreet freq and a quick brief followed by a tally and join up.  He gave me the lead and I held the phone over the passenger seat and clicked away, knowing the wide field and 12 megapixels would get something.  Told him to move around some as needed.  Took 41 pics, 6 of which looked promising.  Never even looked at the phone.  Was pleasantly surprised that with a little EDITing you could get respectable.  Monk wanted a pic for his wall and this was a no-hassle, minimal-effort solution.

When they kids figure out an answer to bent props in smartphone pics, my pro gear will be on eBay.  I mean, I didn't even have to look. 

Literally 'phoned it in'.  Badump... ;^)


The cropped pics.


Un-cropped original

 

Garmin G3X Software 12.10 & G5 Software 6.75 Now Available 10/20/2020

 

 

October 20, 2020.  Issue #5,198.
  Sorry for the late push - you know where I was <g>.
(Need a contract pilot?)
 

Vixen file mill for tubing spacers

Squaring aluminum tubing spacers with a vixen file and drill press.

Somewhat tedious but controllable because the file loads up every 0.002".

215 RPM, the slowest speed of my drill press.

 

Lubricants (other than motor oil)

Greetings, all - I did a quick forum search and couldn't really find anything:

1) What are folks using to clean and lubricate the piano wires holding on the cowl? Mine are getting pretty tough to pull out and push back in. I'm thinking a good degreaser and then some kind of lubricant: silicone, lithium grease, or (gasp) WD40?

2). Sometimes my starter just clicks once and doesn't turn over the prop. I may have traced it to the starter gear (aka "Bendix gear") not always engaging with the prop gear. Any recommendations for a lubricant that might help those gear teeth play nicer together?

Many thanks!

 

5yr Rubber Alternatives ...thread update

All the critical hoses have now been replaced, The blue are silicone for the coolant.


 

Lumpy idle, induction leak

Hi to the great and the good of the forum

I have an IO- 320B1A in my RV 6A which has been suffering from a lumpy idle when hot , to cut a long story short the injector body ,distribution valve and nozzles have all been bench tested and are good , the mags have been bench tested and are also good . We got the engine running pretty good but the idle mixture adjustment wheel was almost at full travel in the rich direction .
After adding some additional heat shielding to the fuel system I then disconnected the mixture link and cantered the thumb wheel but keeping the overall length .
So now it all goes wrong on starting the engine pops and bangs and will not idle fuel flow and manifold pressure about 2gal hr and manifold press a bit 13"
After adjusting the mixture we had more popping and banging and at some point during this fuel flow jumped to 6 gal hr and manifold press 22"
As I understand it this is indicative of an induction leak , initial visual check of the induction tubes ans connector sleeves all look ok .
Plan is to check for induction leak using the compression tester method and soapy bubbles .
Is there anything else I can check or something that may have produced these symptoms

Thanks in advance for any assistance

 

JetFlex WR help

I've been practicing with JetFlex WR on some scrap and my old toolbox practice kits before starting to spray parts that will go into my plane. So far I haven't been able to get it as smooth as I would like so I wanted to see if anyone has been able to get a smoother finish and if anyone has any tips. The picture below is about as good as I've done so far...yeah there's a lot of dust in it, I'm thinking about building a paint booth for the real parts.  -->

 

Hangar Lighting ...Tony_T PIREP

Lots of ideas here, mostly how to do lighting on the cheap, and that is probably best if you are renting. In my case I bought a typically equipped hangar with poor lighting and minimal outlets. As a new owner I decided to have lighting done by a contractor by permit and construction to codes appropriate for an airplane hangar. I figured to spent a lot of time here and wanted a proper workshop in addition to just a space to store my airplane.
The contractor spent 3 days there with one man and a lift. Six 4 tube T8 fixtures were installed in addition to 4 tubes that existed and the 120V and 240V drops. Everything is in conduit and looks like it was all original construction. No string lighting for me!

The floor was already epoxy painted and that helps illumination quite a bit. The cost was $5000. I know, sounds like a lot but I intend to recover the cost in the increased valuation when I finally sell the hangar. In the meantime, life is good.

 

My RV Weekend ...more entries

(bruceh)  I let 24 High School students from my wife's Aerospace Engineering class (11th graders) crawl around and sit in my RV-9A. I'm always amazed at how curious they are about airplanes and airports. Our little airport is just down a few miles from the High School, and most of the students, who have lived in town all of their lives have never set foot on the airport. I'm sure there are a few future pilots in making from this experience.

Pre-weekend, I finished wiring up a new Dynon Touch screen in my panel. Still working on getting the settings all finalized and then the calibrations will begin (compass/AOA).

(N546RV)  Among other things, finished up the small wiring harness for my switch console. Rather satisfying to turn this rat's nest:  -->

(Northernliving) Went up North.  My GIB/Bride and I flew to see her parents on Moosehead Lake in Northern Maine for a morning church service on Sunday. Colors were still quite nice in the south and Mt. Washington was coated with some fresh snow against some of those colors. It took a 6+ hour drive each way into a nice enjoyable, stress-free 1ish hour flight each way. These RV's are amazing time machines.  -->

 

 

October 19, 2020.  Issue #5,197.
  Got to fly the RV Saturday morning for the first time in 12 days.  Ahhhhhhh!!!!  Hope you had a nice weekend and got to fly also. 
(Need a contract pilot?)
 

RV-10 Completion ...Scott Hersha post

I am pleased to announce another RV completion in the Cincinnati area. Delta Captain Mike Sherman flew his newly completed RV-10 today at Lunken Airport in Cincinnati. After years of construction, with help from an understanding and helpful family, Mike is now in Phase 1 with N76MS. I flew chase with my RV4 in circuits above Lunken airport on this beautiful fall day, for initial engine break-in, and flight testing. I'm happy to report that all went well. Nothing major showed up, and he is on his way. Several family members and friends showed up after the flight at the old Lunken terminal to congratulate Mike on this significant accomplishment. Congratulations Mike!!

 

First Flight ...Charlie Rosenzweig

After 20 years of off and on again building #24483 RV6A flew today for the first time.  It is powered by a Honda Civic 1.8L engine with a T3/T/4 turbo.  It flew great. For those that do not know I have a active thread in the "Alternative Engines" section of VAF.  (video)

 

Milestone: Wings ON ...SeanB

First time the wings have been on the plane. It's sure nice to see them out of the cradles. Now to check sweep and set incidence. Getting closer.

 

Anyone have trouble keeping the tail down during runup?

I'm not sure if something could have changed with prop angle when my prop & hub were overhauled and the governor replaced but I experienced something for the first time last night when I did my run up.

I have a 200hp IO360 with a 3-blade MT prop, Mt hub and MT gov. Yesterday as I was approaching 2000 rpm on my way to 2100 to cycle the prop the tail started to lift even with full aft stick (stick and elevator have full travel and were at the stop). I throttled back, moved the stick, verified visually I was getting full aft stick / elevator and tried it again...same thing happened. I ended up cycling the prop at 1950rpm and as soon as the pitch changed, the tail jumped a little.

I was at 1/2 fuel, solo and I don't weigh much but the CG was near the middle of the envelope. The air was near standard conditions so my no means exceptionally dense (I've flown this plane many times in much denser air without this happening). I normally top off the tanks after every flight so being at 1/2 fuel was something different and of course a new governor and overhauled prop / hub are different.

I have a call in to the prop shop but was curious if this is common with other RV4s given the geometry of the plane and the chosen power plant.

 

Wheel Pants Done and Primed ...dwranda

Finally got the wheel pants and fairings done and primed. They're not perfect but look great from 10 feet away <g>

 

Dent in empennage

Hi,

I have discovered a dent / deflection on my empennage. This is a flying airplane (70+ hours) that just went into the paint shop. I am trying to gauge the severity and what, if anything, I should do about it. The painter says no big deal, he can make it go away. But is it a structural issue I should address?

It is a little difficult to see in the real and less so in photo. I attach several photos.
- Location: I outlined the area with marker and brackets. The dots are marker as well.
- Deflection: This photo is probably the best view of the skin distortion - towards the bottom left of the photo. There is no matching distortion on the right side, leading me to believe hangar rash as the cause rather than a flying issue (and I have no recollection of this occurring....).
- Detail: I tried to show how big a deflection. While the Deflection photo shows a clear change in the surface, a straight edge across the deflection does not show the difference in the photo. With the eye, there is a faint glimmer from behind the rule but not shown on the photo. I am guessing a couple of thousands is the depth of the valley.

I appreciate any thoughts.

 

Matt McCoy 6 Minute RV-10 Time Lapse Video

 

Rivet Consistency

This week I was able to complete the Horizontal Stabilizer, so all that's left for the tailcone/empennage kit is the elevator. The delivery of the Fuselage is going to be delayed by about a month (hopefully arrive sometime in December), so I've been going over each section identifying problems and looking at what I should improve upon moving forward. One thing that I have gotten a lot of practice with the tailcone and H-stab is riveting (a lot more practice still to come ). Throughout the first sections I have been using a rivet gauge to check rivets and would aim to have the rivet just barely fit in the hole and not be able to pass under the lip. I did this based off advice from many builders and the instructions from the manufacturer of the gauge "the gauge measures the minimum acceptable height and minimum acceptable diameter". Out of curiosity I went ahead and measured the depth of the lip and found that it was not the minimum 0.038", but that is was about 0.053". Am I missing something here? I went ahead and measured the depths of the other gauges in the set and found that they were also near the higher end of the milspec standard. Throughout the build I have made only a few modifications that I have seen other builders do with rivet sizes (but the vast majority are the Van's recommendations). I measured the diameter of the hole on the gauge and it was the appropriate 0.140". Given that I ensure that the rivets just fit over the gauge with little/no movement (I've started eyeing each rivet and checking with gauge every 10 or so rivets to ensure I'm calibrated), the rivets are the correct 1.5 X diameter, but the rivet height is confusing me. I've attached some pictures of rivets throughout the project.

 

Leading Edge Advice ...gburciaga

Good morning everyone. So I have managed to complete the Van's practice kit but I need some advice on the leading edge. Everything on this was going really well (had to drill out a couple of rivets but nothing excessive) until I got to the leading edge. I used the edge forming tool on the forward skin and then used a 1 inch pvc pipe to roll both skins. You will notice in the pictures that I had some "waves" in the top skin of the leading edge. Could someone please tell me what I did wrong here????

Any advice on the rest of the project would be welcome as well as I plan on ordering my rv8 kit in Decembere.

Thanks everyone!

 

My RV Weekend ...various


 

Swinging a 2 Pound Hammer ...PropMan RV-4

Setting the -6 rivets for the main spar caveman style (-:

 

 

October 16, 2020.  Issue #5,196.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
 
(Need a contract pilot?)
 

Homebuilt A/C Feature and Capability Survey ...take it!

...Kitplanes.com

 

Some Fuel Flow Discussion

...and DanH chimed in as he does....with data <grin>. 


 

RV-8 Pilot Seat Failure

I am posting this for a friend who isn't on VAF, but agrees that the community should know about this. He was on take-off, full throttle, when the lower part of his aftermarket seat back buckled, allowing the top to slip UNDER the cross-bar, and putting him halfway into the back seat, with his head below longeron level. He told me he was doing about 50 knots at the time, ended up going off the runway, and damaging a wheel pant - fortunately, that was it (as well as the seat back, which is trashed). Imagine if this had happened a few seconds later!

He bought this -8, and is not a builder, and is not sure who did the seat backs - but they appear to be aftermarket, and when he pulled the upholstery off, it is obvious that this is not a stock seat back design. I'm posting the pictures of the seat back with the upholstery as well as the picture of the failed frame for reference, in case it looks familiar. This, to me, is something that anyone with a similar seat frame should look at carefully - there appears to be a weak point which could get bent with age.


 

Can I use blind rivets here? ...didja -14

I am finishing my left Aileron and nearly complete with the wing kit for my 14A. I noticed after I blind riveted the inner and outer main ribs together on my aileron and am about to rivet the trailing edge that I forgot to rivet these three locations on the top of the spar for the aileron.

I am looking for anyone's input as to whether or not this warrants drilling out the 16 blind rivets on either side, pulling out the trailing edge and removing the double sided tape residue to get access inside the aileron to put solid rivets in these three locations, or if i should simply put blind rivets here and go on.

My inkling is to simply drill out to a #36 (or whatever the leading edge ribs where drilled to and using those same blind rivets...... anyone think that that might be a bad idea? Is it better to drill out the aforementioned and put three solid rivets in?

 

Lycoming Engine Price Increase - Effective Nov 1st 2020 ...mothership

Hi Everyone,

Lycoming will be making their annual engine price adjustments on November 1st. That means you have until October 31 to place an order from Van's at our current prices. The new Van's selling prices are listed below along with our current ones, for your comparison and information. We received confirmation of the new prices today and wanted to give you the maximum available lead time to make buying decisions and place orders, should you wish to do so, before the price change takes effect.

All engines ordered under the current pricing must be ordered with requested delivery dates no later than May 31, 2021. Engines ordered for delivery after that date will have to be ordered at the increased price.

In addition to the engine price changes, the following will also be effective for orders received after November 1st:

- Flat rate engine shipping in the continental USA increases from $179 to $239.
- Thunderbolt engine chrome shroud tubes change from $100/cylinder to $150/cylinder.
- Chrome rocker covers on standard engines change to $100/cylinder (as opposed to $400 per engine, so the increase is only reflected on 6-cyl engines).

The Van's prop/engine order bundle ($1000 off when you order a prop and engine from Van's at the same time) is still available (both before and after the price change).

Now's your chance to lock in the pre-increase price if you want to do so!

 

Getting under cockpit floors F-830 and F831 ...Saville RV-8

So my intention is to install a GPS antenna on the top of the fuselage right near the passenger seat. I'd have to run the RG-400 coax forward to beneath the instrument panel.

I notice that the two forward cockpit floors - F-830 and F-831 are riveted along their after-most edges. I took out most of the screws to F-830 and that afforded me very little access underneath. I haven't taken out the screws along the left hand edge because that would require removing side panels in the cockpit. Furthermore the floor is fitted very tightly around various vertical members and the riveting along the back edge does not allow me to pull the panel inboard. I'm afraid I'd have to twist the floor too much, and put a bend in it, in order to gain access underneath.  -->

 

 

October 15, 2020.  Issue #5,195.
  Excuse the late Thursday push - sims.
(Need a contract pilot?)
 

First Flights Reported in the Last Week ...mothership



 

Tailcone Bulkheads ...Jarrett

Tailcone has been complete for about 2 weeks and I have to say that it's been my favorite part of the kit so far! Overall I'm very happy with how it turned out, and today I decided to give it another look over. On the two forward bulkheads (mainly the most forward ones), I appear to have some distortion above the two rivets above the J-Stiffener (there is a relief cut). It's kind of hard to pick up with a camera, but I've taken a couple of pictures. Looking at it closely its very hard to pick up anything, but I believe there is a little bump (no dent luckily).

It is also worth noting that some of the flanges are not perfectly flush and after asking Van's I was informed that structurally it's not a problem. One of my guesses is that the top part of the flange is being pulled into the skin too much creating this distortion/bump. Throughout the build I have made sure to round every curved edge in order to remove the faceting and I remember doing this for this area (maybe not enough?). I was thinking that if I try removing the two rivets holding the flange down and use a piece of plastic to ensure that bottom part of the flange is flush it will relieve pressure from the top, but I don't want to make it worse. I'm wondering if this is a common issue in this area, and if there's any other way now or down the road to fix it (I will be painting). Fuselage is arriving in November, so I've been having too much time to obsess over this.  ---> More Pics

 

Officially an RV-8 Owner ...Scotty G

Well, I took possession of N98DM today.

For those interested, 2013 QB, TMX-390, Whirlwind 74RV constant speed, dual Dynon HDX SkyViews, Garmin 650 and 220, AP, Showplanes fastback and cowl, Grove gear, 14g aux fuselage tank, and a 2,000 lb. utility weight. Dual alternators, permanent oil filter, Emags, and HOS (Hands On Stick - start, transmit, trim, flaps, AP disengage, comm flip).

 

Instrument Panel Center Stack Height

(Jetmart)  I maximized space by putting the audio panel on top and the Garmin AP controller on the bottom. These units are shorter and don't go back as far as the sub panel.  In the very centre I have a GTN 650 & GNC 355 WAAS GPS/COMM. With these two in the middle I had to trim the bottom of the sub panel about a 3/16" to fit the tray of the GNC 355 in. There is about a 3/8" clearance on the top of the sub panel above the 650. Plenty of room for antennas and plugs. It should be noted that there is additional room to cut more from the top and bottom of the sub panel if required.

 

Wrench for fuel tank fittings ...JwWright57 -12

Q: Hi all, has anyone found a wrench that works on the &$#@& fuel tank fittings? Its almost impossible to get a wrench in there.

A: (Piper_J3)

 

FS:  RV-3 .....$32K

(DNeufeld) I am selling this nicely built, sharp looking plane for a friend. He is not the builder. No damage history.

 

 

October 14, 2020.  Issue #5,194.  (Need a contract pilot?)
 

Retirement Cake ...complete with RV (Paul 5r4)

After 32 years in health care yesterday I retired. My colleagues at the clinic had a nice surprise dinner along with this cake made by one of our nurses that's an artist when it comes to baking. She "built" a replica of my RV and topped the cake off with it complete with correct tail number! I thought it came out beautifully. Here's a picture for comparison. Going to miss those people. If anyone is ever in Gulf Shores, Alabama and in need of health care, go to the urgent care walk in clinic. They treat you right. It was a privilege to complete my last 5 1/2 years with these fine folks. Now I'll be looking forward to flying the RV A LOT MORE!  -->

 

My RV Weekend ...MikeyDale

I had a great time at Pine Bluff Formation Clinic, my first dabbling in formation flying! I hope to Solo on the next clinic. But, I got to ride along and take pics and video of the "All Up" on Sunday!

 

Visiting 'First Flight' ...alcladrv

Flew into KFFA on Friday. It's been on my list since they completed the new visitors center at Wright Brothers Memorial National Park. The visitors center has nicely done displays with a full-size replica of the 1903 Flyer. I had a very enjoyable visit although the combined flying time to & from was greater than the time spent on the grounds.

For those who haven't been there, plan your visit on a nice day as it's primarily an outdoor memorial. I spent about 3 hrs. on the grounds and felt it gave me plenty of time to take in everything both outside and in the display area in the visitors center. I brought a folding bike with me in my -7A to get around. Otherwise, plan on a fair amount of walking.

Observations:
-Bring your own food as there is no concession stand and other food options aren't close by.
-The runway is in good shape, but has no lights.
-No night operations are allowed.
-The ramp is in average condition with tie-down ropes.
-The pilot building is serviceable, but in a "tired" condition, with rest rooms, which are locked at 4:30 pm local time, the closing time for the memorial.
-The outdoor portion of the memorial appears to always be open. The locals have learned they can access the grounds freely through the vehicle parking area next to the ramp to walk, jog or bike around the grounds without having to pay the vehicle parking fee at the main entrance. Depending on your perspective, either this enhances security of the parked airplanes because of the additional foot traffic along the path next to the easily breached fence around the ramp or compromises security because of the numerous non-airplane oriented people passing close-by with nothing but an orange traffic cone to prevent drivers from entering the ramp and runway where a gate in the fence once was.

 

Garmin Pilot v10.2.5

Garmin Pilot Version 10.2.5 for Apple mobile devices, adds a demo mode to simulate tracks, integrates Apple Maps satellite view and allows brightness control within the application.

 

Milestone ...Bsquared

First engine start on my 14A. Transition training next week in Oregon And the first flight after that.

 

Smooth / Improve #1 Baffle Ramp (Vans Cowl)? ...blaplante

Looking at the airflow path *into* the stock cowl, it looks like the flow is much easier on the left (#2 & #4) side, as the #2 cylinder is stepped back, vs. the #1 side. On the #1 side the baffle ramp promptly hits the #1 cylinder and deflector plate, and the clearance is quite tight between the #1 cylinder and the cowl.

Has anyone played with making a modified ramp so that the air doesn't come in and then hit the wall of the #1 cylinder deflector nearly head-on? Seems like that would improve flow.

Here's a link to a pic of the area I'm talking about (although you don't realize how restrictive it is without the top cowl).

Maybe a cone shape in front of the #1 deflector?

 

My RV Weekend ...Sid Mayeux

Flew KELLI GIRL to Pine Bluff, AR, for Bulldog Flight's FFI Formation Clinic. Two dozen pilots and RVs in attendance. Flew 8 formation training sorties as a flight lead, checkride wingman, and safety pilot. I led two 4-ship deltas in two seperate 17-ship mass formations. HUGE time!

 

My RV Weekend ...PHOTO01 pics (last weekend)

Prior to deployment I had the chance to fly the RV back from Norfolk to middle Tennessee; attached are several photos from my last weekend in town:

 

RV14-A Completed in 2019 ...jdmrv7a

Lotta love in this QB 14-A. Great traveling airplane for two. 320 hours logged.

 

Microballoon max thickness ...agent4573

Starting the fiberglass and it's my first time doing any epoxy stuff. The rudder and vertical stab fairings are off about 1/8". At this location, would it be safe to add 1/8-3/16" of micro and then sand to final shape? Would you suggest shaping the micro and then adding a layer of glass over top of it?

 

 

October 13, 2020.  Issue #5,193.
  Non-RV milestone to report....today I've logged enough part time Phenom 300 sim sessions to qualify for the week long ATP-CTP course at CAE.  Today my 60th client sim session is scheduled - the magic number.  HYD LO PRES and CAB ALTITUDE HI checklists in my dreams these days... ;^)
  Missing the RV <g>.
 
(Need a contract pilot?)
 

Have'n a ball (it's worth the pain, don't quit!) ...sapeloson

 

Just Point Your Phone to Donate...help keep VAF online.

It's the last quarter so as usual I'm getting desperate highly motivated to send out gentle nudges to those who haven't sent in their honor system donation for this year yet.  Hopefully making it even easier, I stumbled across adding a QR code in the PayPal app yesterday, and added the graphic unique to me below to the Support VAF page.  If you have the PayPal app on your phone and are viewing this page on a computer or laptop, simply open the phone app and tap the 'Scan/Pay' button.  Then hold your phone up to the monitor and center the window on the image below (or the one on the donation page).

As always, I can't thank those enough that support this site.

 

Sherwin Williams P60G2 longevity Test ...rvbuilder2002 update

Since it has been a while since any info about this test has been provided, I thought it was time for an update.

As has been mentioned in the past, this test is about as un-controled as any can get and it in no way am I meaning to imply that it compares to any of the Mil Spec lab executed tests that are commonly done to test the performance of protective coatings, but I feel it still provides some worthwhile real world situations data that can be used when making the prime / don't prime / what primer should I use, decision.

Though Sherwin Williams doesn't officially endorse P60G2 as a protective coating unless it is top coated, I think the results of this unscientific test show that it does provide a good level of protection which makes it a good choice when factored against cost, added weight, and ease of application, which is why we have used it for decades in our shop at Van's, on the production QB kits, and recommended it in our construction manual as one potentially good option.  -->

 

My RV Weekend ...colojo

Took my 8 up today for some sightseeing over the Orange County coast. First smoke-free day in weeks. Absolutely gorgeous!

 

Redneck engineering doesn't always require fancy test equipment. ...DanH

This a a carbon fiber mount for a BRS parachute canister. The "official" mounting method means kluging lengths of steel tube into the airframe, and bolting the canister to it using a big steel bracket from BRS. Just the steel bracket alone is 1.25 lbs. Figured there had to be a better way.

It's a hollow shell, mostly 12k plain weave carbon, bagged on a foam form then closed at the back later in the assembly. Not going to describe the whole process here, although I hope you find it inspirational. It did save weight as desired. The whole assembly, with the BRS-supplied steel straps, is only a fuzz over 2 lbs.

The redneck part was making sure it was strong enough...see the last photo. The entire canister, rocket, and mounting system is just over 20 lbs. If a 220 lb redneck can dance around on the mounted canister without a problem, it has to be good for at least 11G.  -->

 

Bruce Windom's RV Weekend ...new rubber

After 4 years, 400 hours and about 400 landings...

 

Glamour Shot ...PHOTO01

 

 

October 12, 2020.  Issue #5,192.
  The Tater turned 20 on Saturday and Suz and I got to hang out with him for a few hours.  He wanted (and got) stew, and I washed his car.  Seems like he was five just last week.  Where does the time go?
  Sunday was battle with a squirrel in the attic.  I'm currently loosing.
 
(Need a contract pilot?)
 

Flying the Mississippi River north to south ...flybill7

In mid-September I did something I've wanted to do for a long time: fly the Mississippi River. I decided to start at the river's headwater in the north -- Lake Itasca, Minnesota -- and then fly the river down to New Orleans. I made it to about 100 miles north of New Orleans but couldn't proceed due to weather. Still, I had a great trip. The RV-7 flew great, about 26 hours.  -->

 

The Sands of Aftermath ...Scott Chastain's latest travel write-up

In October of that year, there yet persisted a thick brown scud of smoke over the great San Joaquin Valley, a constant reminder that the fires ignited by bolts of lightning nearly two months earlier continued to gnaw through the California countryside and nibble at the containment perimeters which had been agonizingly shoveled, bulldozed, and berm-formed by firefighters. Temporary flight restrictions blazed out a geography that made the West appear stricken as if by the firestorms of war.

 

What do I Need to Start Building? ....Nortorious Nate

Hello all! Long-time forum member, first-time builder. I am looking to get some insight into setting up my garage to begin building.

A little background on me: I am a King Air driver with my A&P. I don't have a whole lot of practical aviation maintenance experience, but I do love building things. I work a 2-month-on, 2-month-off schedule. I am hoping to make good use of my time off to make good progress on an RV-8.

I have a full-sized garage connected to my home that will be my build site. One of my first tasks is going to be to improve the lighting. I'm planning on adding 8 or so fixtures to the garage, based on a few threads I have read here.

I purchased a tool kit quite a while ago with most of the necessary essentials for sheet metal. But, I would like to hear any essential or helpful tools that I need from the get-go.

I do not have an air compressor yet. I am hoping to set up an air compressor in my shop in the backyard, and run a line to the garage to reduce noise. Has anyone done something similar?

I don't have any work benches or other horizontal surfaces yet. What do you guys recommend for benches? Are EAA benches the way to go?

I have about a month before I make it home again. Does anyone have any further recommendations of things I should do to prepare? I am hoping that I can set up my garage for building during my time off, and maybe get started on an empennage.

Thanks!

 

N3VR on a Spring morning in North Georgia...Dave McKinnon

 

Just Point Your Phone to Donate...help keep VAF online.

It's the last quarter so as usual I'm getting desperate highly motivated to send out gentle nudges to those who haven't sent in their honor system donation for this year yet.  Hopefully making it even easier, I stumbled across adding a QR code in the PayPal app yesterday, and added the graphic unique to me below to the Support VAF page.  If you have the PayPal app on your phone and are viewing this page on a computer or laptop, simply open the phone app and tap the 'Scan/Pay' button.  Then hold your phone up to the monitor and center the window on the image below (or the one on the donation page).

As always, I can't thank those enough that support this site - it's literally food on the table.

 

I see what I did wrong ...Mikeyb

I used sikaflex on my canopy frame and skirt. I used clear 1/8" wall plastic tubing as spacers. I trimmed the raw skirt to the scribe lines. Using the 1/8" spacers makes the canopy wider in the middle and taller in the back It makes a big difference at the back of the canopy . I finally cut the skirt off at the rear and made a clay mold. Five layers of 9 oz cloth and a layer of micro filler. A scarf joint in place on the plane and some more filler. I found it helpful to make little u brackets of .040" aluminum to hold the canopy against the spacers. Happy now.

 

How much did you trust your aircraft by the end of Phase 1?

OK, I'll start with some background. I currently have a goal to finish the -8 next year. I also have a goal, once it's done, to do a big trip - flying to NC to pick up my dad, and taking him up to OSH. It'd be a good callback to the days we used to go on air show trips up to Oceana and Langley back in the mid 2000s.

But I've been thinking about this, mostly in terms of how realistic it is to be flying and finish Phase 1 in time for OSH 2021. Generally I've just been thinking in terms of "can I get that done in time" but now I'm beginning to wonder if it's even smart to potentially take a plane just out of Phase 1 and go straight to a thousand-mile cross-country trip. One part of me thinks that by the time 40 hours rolls around, kinks should be either worked out or understood, the other part says that might be naive.

And thus I pose this question - did you folks sort of "ramp up" your RV activities after 40 hours? Were there issues that cropped up after that time that might have been trouble on a long trip? At what point did you feel confident enough in the aircraft to commit to a serious trip? Am I completely overthinking this (as is my tendency)?

 

Painted ...upperdeck

 

Gear Shimmy

My RV-7 has had violent gear shimmy since first flight, occurred around 23 mph. I tried different tire pressure, different profile tires, wood slats, wrapping the main gear with carbon fiber, nothing worked. I took the gear to the manufacture, he said there should be about 1/2 degree to 1 degree of toe in. My gear has about 1/8 degree toe out on the left, and flush on the right. I just spent $600 on a new set of gear from Vans. Both had about 1/2 degree of toe in. The shimmy was GREATLY reduced. I added a sandwich strip of 10 layers of fiberglass sandwiched by carbon fiber, as posted by one of our other members (I apologize for not remembering the members name) attached to the main gear with stainless ADEL clamps. Not only is there no gear shimmy, but the landing loads are absorbed by the flex of the composite "yardstick" clamped to the trailing edge of the gear. After over 30 years, finally an idea that resolved this chronic issue! I have my RV grin back!

 

Garmin announces 2021 Pilot Training Classes with virtual learning format

OLATHE, Kan./October 8, 2020 - Garmin is pleased to announce its pilot training opportunities through June 2021 will be transitioning to an entirely virtual learning format. This new format will allow customers to receive valuable product knowledge without concerns over travel and social distancing. A variety of pilot training opportunities are available ranging from Garmin pilot's guides, PC trainers, eLearning courses, and monthly customer webinars that provide foundational knowledge about the equipment. Using scenario-based training, new instructor-led virtual courses build on that knowledge to best integrate the capabilities of Garmin avionics into the flight experience with the comfort and safety of this new completely virtual learning environment.

 

Carl Froehlich Milestone:  Disassembled for Paint

100 hours and no issues, now racing against the calendar to get it done before the weather turns too cold. Finishing the hangar paint booth today and tomorrow.

Reminder - grease the spars and spar bolts on assembly. It made the wing removal process go better than expected.

 

Milestone: First Engine Start ...Bruce RV-14

This morning, I started my brand new IO-390 Thunderbolt engine for the first time.

After doing the pre-tasks including pre-oiling, draining preservative and verifying oil pressure, I took it out to the run up area and fired it up.

It started without difficulty and ran well.

I do have a handful of questions to research:

Cylinders 1 and 2 ran cooler than 3 and 4. The front two were about 200F cooler (EGT)than the back two (900F vs 1100F) at idle. The CHTs were also lower by about 50F. When I ran it up to 1500 rpms, the two front cylinders registered similar temps to the back two. BTW, I ran it with the cowlings off.

An experienced A&P friend of mine said that was not especially problematic.

I don't think the fuel flow transducer is set up correctly - it reads 6.3 gph at 1000 rpms (I expect it to read about 2 to 3 gph), drops slightly to 5.3 gph at 1500 and then goes up to 7 gph at 2100 rpms.

The system voltage as reported on the G3 is 13v, this is with both the primary and standby alternators switched on. I expected the system voltage to be 14.1v. The current as reported by the G3 was 0.0 though the VPX showed all of the loads with their correct values. I am wondering if I have to configure the G3X for my setup or possibly if the primary alternator is not putting out any power.

I have to adjust the FM-150 to get the proper idle mixture and idle rpms.

Overall pretty happy. Hope to be flying in about 3 weeks.

 

 

October 9, 2020.  Issue #5,191. 
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  
(Need a contract pilot?)
 

N205EN is Now an Airplane ...RV10Pilot

A long time in the making, but today My RV-10 kit #40356 past the airworthiness inspection and became an an airplane. Sorry missed last weeks party when both Dace and Larry's RV-10s were inspected, but now there are 3 RV-10s at X35 to fly off their 40 hours. Thanks to DAR Arnold Holmes for doing a through job inspecting my plane. No loose jam nuts but 4 under sized cotter pins that were easily replaced. If you need a DAR in Florida I highly recommend Arnold. Thanks to the entire Saint Aviation crew. Without their guidance I would still be building for another 15 years.

 

First flight video N747RJ ...Md11av8r

N747RJ took her maiden voyage today, with Jessie Saint giving chase with Pilot Bo Feldman, and my wife Rosemarie videoing from the back seat of the C182. Jessie just had another RV-10 pass its airworthiness inspection today as well- DAR Arnold Holmes once again completing the inspection. Arnold was full of praise for Jesse's crew in assisting in the build of such finely built machines!


 

RV-14 Service Information Updates - dated Oct 6 2020 ....mothership

Updates related to RV-14 Horizontal Stab rear spar part, and updated assembly instructions related to horizontal stab rear spar orientation errors that are commonly made during build:  -->

 

RV-10 Service Information Updates - dated Oct 6 2020 ...mothership

Updates made related to new nose gear axle parts which are now available and standard in kits shipping for the RV-14 and RV-10 (note that these parts are common between these two aircraft models; the original parts are perfectly serviceable and do not need to be changed) 

 

RV-12 and RV-12iS Service Publication Updates dated October 6 2020 ...mothership

Every now and then things need to come in batches!

We've published a number of RV-12/12iS service/documentation updates to the Van's web site. They include some revised plans pages, two new service letters, one new service bulletin, one revised service bulletin, and a number of other key document revisions:  -->

 

-14A Status Report ...bk1bennett

Finally finished the empennage sheet metal work with the final rivets in the tail cone assembly.

QB Wings and Fuselage are coming by the end of next month.

Should I do Section 11: Empennage Attach or wait until I get to the hangar? I can't leave everything assembled in my garage. I would have to assemble then disassemble.

 

Oil pressure fluctuations when at cruise powerr

About a month ago, the oil & fuel pressure sensors in my IO-360 powered RV-9A were changed from VDO to Kavlico sensors. A short period of time after the change (it wasn't right away, I'd say approx 8 hours later) the oil pressure began to fluctuate at cruise power, as shown in the video.

Today, Bruce and I swapped the wires on the sensors, such that the fuel pressure sensor is now using the former oil pressure sensor, and the oil pressure sensor is now using the former fuel pressure sensor. We made the necessary changes in the AFS avionics so the gauges read correctly.

Upon flying the airplane this afternoon, the same problem still exists. At takeoff power, the oil pressure is solid around 88 PSI. At idle power, as shown in the video, the oil pressure is solid around 55 PSI. It is only when I am at cruise power that the fluctuations shown in the video occur.

Initially I thought it was perhaps a bad sensor, but today's experiment has removed that possibility. Bruce feels good about the connecting wires not being the problem.

So, it leaves me wondering.. if it isn't the wires, what is it? I was wondering if the vibration at cruise power is creating some sort of intermittent connection? Another clue is the oil pressure at cruise, even at the peak fluctuation PSI, is about 7 psi lower than I am used to seeing.

Suggestions? Anyone seen this sort of issue before?

 

Static Port Error - A Journey

Like many RVs mine is unique in many ways, but the static port was not one of the items that was ever noticed. It's just a hole.

My RV always seemed slow compared to others published numbers and Van's. This always bothered me...did I buy a dud? Ultimately I was happy with real performance, ie the gas milage being better than my car and my commute taking 1/3 the time. However, I searched for every bit of aerodynamic issue with the aircraft - wing, flight control, and gear fairing rigging, all to no avail. The pilot static and altimeter test also good.

Then I see a thread in the -9 forum about someone in like circumstance. The community to the rescue! Everything pointed to the static port! I remembered it was pointed out in my pre-buy that I didn't have the Van's pop-rivet port, so I took a 4-leg WOT test drive at 8500', captured G3X screen shots of my metrics and then plugged my data in the NTPS spreadsheet provide here. Well...I was indicating ~10 too slow...what was 148 KTAS was actually 158! Within 2 knots of the published Vans numbers!

So...how do I fix? Well, I'm not smart, but I can copy! I just modified the flush port to install a unset large flange 1/8 rivet like the one Van's provides. Retested, and my IAS and indicted TAS are now within 1 knot. Happy Days!

However...my IAS, and to a larger extent, my ALT and VS is jumping around a tiny bit. Very small deviations, but not very agreeable with my autopilot. Any idea what would cause this?

 

F-1069 side skin to bottom skin opening ...RV-10

Did I miss in the directions how to fill the hole that is created just under the leading edge where the f-1069 side skins are bent up to the bottom skin? If not, how did you guys fill this opening? Thanks,

 

 

October 8, 2020.  Issue #5,190. 
  Please excuse the early Thursday push - extra paper route (sim).
  
(Need a contract pilot?)
 

Monument Valley Flight ...Kevin Lippert RV-14A

(4) pics.  "Always wanted to fly to Monument Valley (0V7), today was the day. Still a lot of smoke from the fires in AZ, CA."

 

My RV Weekend

(ty1295)  Just got back from a short trip (42 hours in 2 weeks).


 

(mchargmg)  Night Flight to La Junta
We have been trying to fly at night once a month during the full moon just to keep current. This month was La Junta, Colorado. La Junta was a bomber training base during WWII. You can still see triangle runways scattered around the nearby area where the bombers went to shoot patterns.

I tried taking photos along the way, but none of them came out. So here we are about ready to put the Sabrina Lee back in the hangar back at KFLY.


 

(DarylT)  Impromptu trip to Destin FL
What a great time to get a call from great friends from Missouri who said hey we are heading to Destin yall wanna come we have extra room. Weather was perfect so we jumped in the plane and off we went.

The best part was we didn't know we were going until the day before.

 

Q: Filling hole for step

What's the best way to fill the step hole. I'm building an RV8 not an A, I didn't realize the skin would have the step hole in it.

A: There is a fairing panel that installs over the opening so it will be covered on an -8. No need to manufacture a cover plate. The fairing gets installed after the wings are on.

 

FOD Check 52F ....Rob Reece

Wednesday's take.  R.Reece photo.

 

Stuff You Gotta Have ....a discussion

"......I'm in pre-buy phase on a nice RV-6A and I'll post more details when everything is done. Right now, I'm happy with where everything is going.

Now - here's a fun topic for you guys: what stuff do you think I should absolutely have in the hangar? What's a nice to have that isn't necessary?

And let's break this into two categories:

1) Stuff I Need For Day To Day Life in A Hangar With An Airplane. So far I have come up with:

- tow bar
- chocks
- cleaning products, rags
- case of oil
- beverage fridge
- ????

 

Air Pressure regulator to pair w/ Numatx squeezer ...tyconnell's setup

"...but I've attached my setup. Also, I'm using this gauge with the NUMATX and another place. It has worked fine so far."

 

 

October 7, 2020.  Issue #5,189.  (Need a contract pilot?)
 

Fall Colors 80-90% in N. WI ...Tim Holmes 9A

(4) pictures...

 

First Flight N962TF ...mikefox RV-12

First flight of N962TF took place at Hollister, California KCVH September 19, 2020.

There are way to many people to thank! The support staff at VAN'S helped answer many questions, gave excellent advice and Mitch(the president) even answered the support phone line one day too. All the kind humans helping at EAA Chapter 20, other plane owners and builders in and around San Carlos(KSQL) gave endless support. And folks on this forum have allowed us to stand on the shoulders of giants. Additionally, many young aviators helped along the way learning and having fun building this plane.

This is a rough short video created with video from my phone ...

The plane is flying frequently and always brings folks back with a monster smile on their face.

Lastly, thank you dad for listening, giving awesome advice and helping. You rock!

 

Grandpa and Grandson Speed Rally ...Janekom

Well I am a bit late as this happened a few weekends ago. My apologies. Myself and Grandson Rikus did our first Speed Rally together. Me the pilot and him the the navigator and our ride was Zumer, my RV7A. This is quite a unique discipline where one flies a route of about 135 nautical miles around nine or so turning points. All at full throttle and only your map, compass and stopwatch to navigate with. Strictly no GPS allowed. You get judged for Navigation accuracy and Speed achieved. Each AC carries a logger that gets downloaded afterwards to get your track flown and to do the scoring with.

The result does not matter- what matters is the fun we have had with Zumer. And Rikus found a turning point that I would have missed in which case we would have picked up a six minute penalty. We have been placed 16th out of 23 entries. We have already entered for the next Speed Rally.  ---> more pics

 

Firewall Layouts Request ...N546RV

OK, I am seriously tying myself into knots trying to mentally juggle all the decisions required for laying out my engine compartment, particularly the items mounted to the firewall and the penetrations for wiring. I would greatly appreciate any photos anyone can provide of how their firewall ended up.


 

Rivet on F-01457 ...Jeff -14A

There is a rivet on the F-01457 gusset that is kicking my backside. It is the rear most 426 rivet that is located in the "match drill" hole. I can't find a bucking bar that I can get into the area. It is inside the longeron, which is 1 1/4" high. There is also about 5/8" of space between the sidewall and a bracket. The bracket is thick enough so that I can't compress the rivet because the bucking bar stops on the bracket.

 

2,350 Hr Report ...petehowell

Flew down to Iowa yesterday to have lunch with a college buddy who is a doctor in Cedar Rapids. Had a great lunch on the tarmac discussing families, covid and the good old days(like 2019). On the way home, I flipped over 2350 hours while cruising over Northern Iowegia.....  -->

 

 

October 6, 2020.  Issue #5,188.  (Need a contract pilot?)
 

Back in the Day Pic ...smokeyray

My RV4 The Bandit, ID backcountry circa 1997...Rustoleum Red and Silver rattle can colors!

 

Milestone: To the Airport! ...Bsquared

Made the move to the airport... 2 years 7 months in the garage. Should be airborne in about 6 weeks

 

My RV Weekend ...crabandy

I had some loose plans to join my previous co-workers and "Pizza Boss" for an informal reunion. 3 hours of driving or 50 mins of flying and a requisite crown vic for a 30 min drive was way more appealing.

After relatively smooth has been verified, Lil' dude is allowed to loosen his safety belts and sit on his legs for a better view. I love discussing objects on the MFD map vs what is out the window.

 

AAF Tank Museum, Danville, VA ...flybill7

Mugsy and I headed southwest from the Annapolis, Maryland area on this beautiful Saturday. Here we are crossing the Chesapeake Bay.


 

Mothership Jobs Open

 

RV-10 Play Date ...cderk

"I held a play date for Norma Jean so she could have fun with a friend while I ate lunch."

 

Condition Inspection Underway ...JFCRV12

Condition inspection has started. My rv12 is in pieces! Hope to wrap up this week.

 

Elevator to HS Clearance Update ...rockitdoc

I think that's the problem. The curve in the leading edge is not as smooth as it could be. The distance between the front spar web and the apex of the leading edge is 2", uniformly all along the leading edge (at least I was consistent in my bending). It needs to be more like 1-3/4" to 1/7/8" to provide at least 1/8" clearance as the elevator moves.

 

 

October 5, 2020.  Issue #5,187.  (Need a contract pilot?)
 

From the Lightbox thread.....

 

Giving Back to My Build Mentor ...crabandy

Getting more from......errr I mean giving just a smidge back to my build mentor. I don't think we can ever repay those that help us (push us through) the build process, the only re-payment is spreading their knowledge and generosity to others. I'm not sure I would've ever completed a flying airplane without a mentor/buddy to guide me along, Thanks Ray I owe ya bigtime.  -->


 

My RV Weekend ....various



 

I Broke a Rudder Pedal ...Phugoid

So after (or during) landing at my home airport earlier this week, the right rudder pedal broke. I knew something was "off" during the flight because the right rudder pedal position was more forward than the left pedal when the rudder was neutral.

After landing, I had to push nearly full forward on the pedal to get any steering to the right! I'm just glad there was little crosswind and that I didn't lose control and become yet another statistic!

After a little research on VAF, I discovered this was a known issue on earlier RV6s. Mine was finished in 1998 (I'm not the builder. I've owned it for about 4 years.)

SB 99-6-1 is the fix. Unfortunately, mine did not have this SB completed!

If you have a pre-1999 RV6, you might want to check to see if your pedals have been reinforced! The potential for disaster was real.

 

A Little Color Before Winter Arrives ...laserman

One more Photo.. Now that she is really ready to party...  Her Name is "LipStick".   The photo does show a bit of orange..   But The trim is Red... "LipStick Red"...

 

What the EGT! ...BH1166

For nearly a year, I have had a strange acting #4 EGT reading, that's repeatable on my 6A.

ENGINE
O320 DIA, FP prop, GRT EIS 4000, 1019TT, 467 SMOH (previous owner found corrosion on cam and had engine OH at 552hrs.) , Slick Mags, <100 hrs since OH, all SBs completed,
Slick Start, <100 hrs on TEMPEST plugs, 11 years on Slick harness, 11 yrs since new intake and exhaust gaskets.

Symptoms
After a normal engine start, warm up and mag check, Immediately after takeoff, #4 EGT is 200 degrees LOWER/COOLER than all others, spread alarm initiated.

HERE'S THE ODD thing.... I can reduce power by 100 RPM (2350 to 2250), and the EGT comes up within 5 seconds, in line with the others, and all is good. There is no roughness, or other symptoms than this.
The remainder of the flight EGTS are all ideal, responds appropriately to leaning, and at let down all respond as expected. I have verified my #4 is indeed #4, I have used a heat gun on all probe areas,
and get expected rise, in the same time span, per the EIS. Here is a picture in cruise....to me, these numbers are all pretty darn good. I am clueless what this is telling me, but dang tired of it happening
and no longer want to ignore. I have flown about 100 hours a year over the past 3 years of ownership.

 

Light Box ...mturnerb

I went to the trouble of painting mine. Makes a nice shop decoration:

 

Pitot/AOA Routing Pic ...bjdecker -7

I brought the pitot and AOA lines from the left wing routing grommets along the backside of the spar. Once inside the cabin, through one of the holes in the Rear Spar Box Carry through, then up and over the end of the spar and under the F-704K cap strip to the F-721A-L canopy deck forward to the F-768B-L subpanel next to the static line. Attached are a couple of pics, not the best but you can see the blue & green poly line in these pics

 

For the Love of the Curve 

Flew the RV-6 Friday morning for the first time in 12 days (been getting some extra part time sims and haven't been able to get out).  CAVU, calm, 59*F, and the locals were in GO FLY mode.  Catnip.  KXBP for gas and got to meet Ken Haberstroh from Propwash at the pump.  Nice person and a beautiful RV-7A.  Ken, Gary Platner and Kay were talking acro as I left.  Back at 52F, surprisingly, the pattern was empty so I kept it tight and lucked into a somewhat respectable descending 180 to landing.  What is it about these curves that bring me such joy?!?  Maybe because for me they rarely work out like I hope, and when they do they are right there at the end of the flight so they stand out more in the memory.  Simple pleasures...

.7 and my head gyros are back in the green.  It felt good to see real dirt outside the cockpit instead of simulated.  That and the Sun. ;^)

 

 

October 2, 2020.  Issue #5,186.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend! 
(Need a contract pilot?)
 

A new RV-10 is born! Meet N747RJ. ...Md11av8r

Today was a milestone in the life of N747RJ. Today she passed her airworthiness inspection, and grew wings. Thank you Jessie Saint and all of the crew at Saint Aviation for helping get to this very important step. Thanks also to DAR Arnold Holmes, for being so thorough, and making this such a pleasant experience. Next hurdle is the Phase 1 flight testing! Let the good times begin!!

 

Airworthiness and First Flight ...Larry New

Another RV-10 took to the skies today. N14EW became a legal flying machine after DAR Arnold Holmes' thorough, educational and enjoyable inspection. Thank you for the assist Jessie Saint, Zach Soles, Galo Ortiz and your outstanding teams at Saint Aviation and ITEC.  --> (more pics

 

RV-8 QB fuselage incorrect hardware ...Rob Chopin

I am building a very slow QB RV-8 (2010 QB wings and fuselage). After having to replace the lower right longeron and weldment (due to a drilling error during gear alignment), I was researching the rivet lengths etc for reassembly, when I noticed something. DWG 67 shows four bolts going through the lower engine mounts and the lower longerons. I didn't recall removing bolts when I removed the right lower longeron, so I did a sanity check and had a look at the left side.

Both sides were fitted with AN470AD4 rivets instead of the AN3 bolts! I contacted the mothership, and they confirmed I should have bolts there, and that they had not heard about this issue before.

Short story long, I just wanted to get this out there as a potential issue on other RV-8 QB fuselages, please have a look. You may get a small amount of vomit in your mouth when you see the deriveting involved to correct this issue!

 

The Lightbox Thread Begins ....mike_newall

 

rv8ch's 'Frankensnorkel

I'm kind of embarrassed to show this, but this is my snorkel......It's hard to tell, but it's not as smooth as the Van's snorkel. I feel I have a lot of room to make it better. At least there is no place in there that has a smaller cross section as the FM-200 intake. But it is far from smooth with laminar flow.  -->


 

 

October 1, 2020.  Issue #5,185.  (Need a contract pilot?)

I'm so Rusty I need a Tetanus Shot!! ...rolick22

Some video of me flying after 35 years.  My 2nd flight in my Van's RV-12iS, (right closed traffic). During this video (Dave H.) my CFI instructed me how to land my airplane. I would be lying to you if I told you it was a piece of cake. I struggled to keep it centered on the runway centerline. There was a right crosswind and slight tailwind to complicate things.

 

A diagnostic tale of trim gone wrong ...KJBSouth

The dream weaver lost its ability to trim left roll. (Stick grip hat switch; Ray Allen 2-10a trim servo; VPX power supply and Garmin GSA28 roll servo) Trim to the right worked just fine. The autopilot had pushed it to the right during the last flight. The fault was found on the ground when I attempted to center the trim.

Day one: I started diagnosing at the wrong spot in the electronic chain. I pulled the seats and floor pans, and removed the Ray Allen only to find that its motor ran well in either direction depending on voltage polarity. I believed the hat switch was working OK as the small trim active light was appearing on the G3X PFD when the switch was pushed either right or left.

Day two: I finally resorted to studying the excellent wiring diagram Stein had supplied with the G3X system. The hat switch grounds a pin on the VPX box which then connects voltage and ground to the Garmin GSA28 sutopilot servo located in the right wing.

The GSA28 is a smart servo. When the autopilot is on, the servo generates it own trim instructions depending on the aileron induced torque at the servo arm. When the autopilot is off, any hat switch/VPS trim signals are passed directly on to the Ray Allen.

Finally enlightened I pulled the wing cover plate and unplugged the DB15 connector from the Garmin servo. I refreshed my memory of connector pin layout and checked for voltage and polarity on the two incoming signal wires. All checked OK. Since there is only one well secured wire pair directly from the Garmin servo to the cockpit and on to the Ray Allen, the fault must be with the Garmin servo.

At this point I brought Stein Air back into the picture. The Garmin servo is beyond warranty. Chris and Nick have arranged an exchange with Garmin at less than half the cost of a new servo, delivered. It should arrive in two days.

I plan on being back in the air this weekend.

Lesson forgotten and relearned: Thoroughly understand the operation of any system before tearing into it for a repair!

 

New Watch From Garmin ...D2 Air

D2 Air aviator smartwatch delivers powerful flight functionality with a vibrant AMOLED display

 

Related: Press Release

 

October Wallpaper Calendar ...Ed Hicks photo

"The gathering of RV's in Boeing Plaza was to celebrate the 10,000 customer completed RV."

 

Foreign object found in engine compartment ...magiccarpet

Today, while doing the annual maintenance, I found this object right under the upper ignition cable of cyl. 4.
I noticed this part when I pulled the socket of the ignition cable from the spark plug.
To me it looks like a rubber sleeve which perfectly fits over the NGK spark plug but I have never came accross it and to my best understanding it also didn't fall off anywhere while pulling the socket.
My A&P said that he has never seen this part in a Rotax 912 installation.
I am more than surprised and also a bit anxious. The part does not show any kind of wear or environmental exposure. And it seems that it does not belong to the cable socket.
My hope is that someone here can enlight me what this object could be.
Thanks a lot

 

Red Cube mounting ...keitht

While I can see that mounting the FT 60 to a modified fuel divider bracket in the upper spine of the engine has some merit in terms of convenience, maintainability and minimum length of hoses, I cant help but think it is really bad from heat, vibration and stress between the fuel divider and the FT 60. Two component masses connected by the bracket and the fuel elbow ( two different spring rates) in a very high vibration environment. My concerns may be overrated and it may not result in stress cracks either at the fuel divider or the red cube but if it does it will almost certainly involve a pressurized fuel leak and an almost certain engine fire. Having had an exhaust stack separate on a 180 king cub while towing a glider and a resultant engine fire I can confirm that it was no fun. Luckily the fire went out after engine shutdown and all the oil around the engine burned off. Would have been another story with a fibreglass cowling.
With that experience in mind I chose to mount the FT 60 on the firewall back to back with the brake hose bracket. Two piece angle bracket supporting the FT 60, hoses by TS Flightlines, secured to the firewall at 6 inches from the red cube. Brackets have slots in both sets of holes to make assembly easier and stress free. Out of the heat, vibration and in the correct plane for level with the fuel servo.

 

Gallagher Aviation SITREP

 

 

 


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