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Aug 10, 2022  Issue #5,625.
  Contract pilot resume   

Goatflieg's OSH Write-up


RV8N542RT's New Panel


PaulvS's Fiberglas Emp Fairing POA

The fibreglass intersection fairing F-694B for the empennage on my -6A project does not appear to fit at all well, at least initially, and the gelcoat is rough. There are old posts on this problematic part and what other builders previously did but unfortunately many of the pictures have become lost.

I'm wondering what is the best plan of attack and whether to buy a new and hopefully better F-694B-1 fairing from Vans, or try to fix the existing part, or to make a new part from scratch?

I haven't done any fiberglass work for a while (built a sailing dinghy in my teens) and assume that fixing the current part would mean removing the gel coat and then cutting it up some and making various lap joint extensions around the edges before smoothing with micro. This could well be as much work as making a new part, I guess.


SeanB's EarthX Installation ...RV-7

I just swapped out my stock Van's battery box, plus Odyssey PC680. Installed a new EarthX ETX-900 battery with the insulated BB-TH battery case. This case is mirror like finish and looks sharp on the firewall! I do not know how the other EarthX boxes are configured, so you should check for any differences before purchasing.

Comparing the two boxes, the stock box has longer flanges for mounting to the firewall. The EarthX has a series of small holes already present. I was able to swap to different nutplates and use the existing EarthX holes to match the three pre-existing attach points on the plane. Also, the width of the EarthX box was minorly narrower at the flanges. Maybe 0.125". No problem though, as the bottom of this box is not welded together and allows enough flex to align to the firewall holes.

So, not a difficult swap. Install some nutplates and bolt it on! Looks awesome and I will enjoy the weight savings and performance. Plus, the folks at Earth X have been great to work with on all accounts.


Learning to fly: Plane built by MST students ready for takeoff

By Paul Feely New Hampshire Union Leader


Pics of Bill Peyton's Rudder Lock Setup

This is what I have been using for 10 years without fail. The pvc length is set for an over-center at the pivot point holding the rudder pedals tightly. A #8 screw and cap nut holds the spar side from slipping.


48 years in the making - RV grin

Today, my old Air Force friend from 48 years ago, soloed his new to him RV-8. We served together as young instructors back in 1975 and reconnected via RVs. He saw my RV-8 on Facebook and after years of flying, T-37s, T-38s, F-4s, F-16s and lastly many years at United, he just had to have a RV-8. I helped him find a really nice one in the Chicago area and after a thorough pre-purchase, the deal was done and we brought it to it's temporary home in South Carolina. Several minor squawks were corrected while Tony went to visit Bruce Bohannon for as Tony puts it, "the best money I ever spent". So, today was the big day. Tony soloed his new RV-8. Needless to say, we both had that RV grin.



Aug 9, 2022  Issue #5,624.
  Contract pilot resume   

RV Grin over Banbury, Oxfordshire ...Billstone

First RV ride to a mate from the rugby club. He loved it, and is a natural pilot.


Longerons are cracked on each side on the front of the roll bar

On my RV 4 the longerons are cracked on each side on the front of the roll bar attachment as attached in the fotos. I'm thinking probably my girl friend riding jump seat has used the roll bar to pull on to get out of the jump seat over the last 10 years. Now, the more I think about it, its probably me using it as dipping bars to maneuver my 230 pound frame in and out.

I'm thinking to stop drill the cracks then a doubler to go on top of the longeron and under the roll bar riveted to the longeron to reinforce it?

Extend the doubler several inches pass the cracks on each side? At least cover where my hands go.

What thickness of doubler?

I could also go under the longeron but could be a lot more difficult to do.

Of course I'm open to any and all recommendations from you all if anyone has been down this path in the past.


Oil/Fuel Restrictor Fittings Needed?

Q: (Mike) Howdy Everyone. I have the GRT remote R66 EIS. The fuel and oil senders have 1/8" NPT male threads and a very tiny hole. With these senders, are the restrictor fittings shown in the plans required?

A: (Mel) The restricters are to minimize oil and/or fuel loss in case of a line or sender failure. Not required but highly recommended.


Unexplained RPM drop / EGT Rise ...Airzen

I am scratching my head about an oscillating RPM drop and EGT rises on a recent flight. The aircraft experienced a series of oscillating drop on RPM (and power) on a climb out.

This is on an RV-10 with a fuel-injected IO-540, with dual PMAGs. This flight was on a hot day ~95-100 Def F OAT at KSZT. The airplane was performing flawlessly to KSZT prior to this flight - KSZT was a fuel stop and this episode happened on the outbound flight.

A few observations:

1) The fuel pressure is above 20 throughout the episode. (The fuel boost pump was on during initial climb out, turned on again after a few secs as it dropped to 15 momentarily 12:45 to 13:00 mark)
2) EGTs on All the cylinders rise and fall together.
3) The RPM oscillations and the EGT oscillations seem to be correlated.
4) I have not yet seen a similar behavior after this episode. [The aircraft returned to KSZT, spent a night and departed the following morning after a thorough inspection / run-up etc.]

Due to #1 I am inclined to believe that Fuel pressure was not a problem. Is vapor lock / bubbling fuel still a possibility and cause?

Due to #2 It appears whatever the reason is it affected the entire ignition system (both Mags) and that too in-synchrony. I am unable to figure out what - given that both the mags are independent power sources.

Any suggestions / thoughts on where I should be looking?


Help us solve a weird Rotax problem! ...Paul Dye

OK, this might be the first time I have ever posted in the R-12 forum... But I just don't have much experience in working on Rotaxes (except in my old jet ski days), and I have a neighbor with a problem in his -12 that has the whole airpark stumped.

For several months, on numerous flights, he has had his oil pressure indication drop to zero after some time in flight. He has changed out the probe with a new one, and has the same symptoms - good oil pressure until sometime in flight, then it drops off to nothing. He's pretty well convinced that he still has oil pressure, because the engine has eaten itself yet! We haven't put a mechanical gauge on it, because we haven't started throwing metric parts and fittings into the tool box.

Now here is where it gets weird. About the same time, his right EGT has started to go high after "some time" in flight. He swapped probes (left to right) and the problem stays with the side (right). he told me that "the spring on the exhaust looks like it has gotten very hot at some time" - which makes me think he really does have an EGT going high on that side. Carb problem that manifests after the engine has ben running awhile? Induction leak that manifests itself after the engine has been running awhile?

He's ready to start chasing the problems up into the "magic box" or the Garmin EIS....but I think he's got a real EGT issue and I have no idea about the oil pressure.

I'm stumped - let's hear from you experienced Rotax types!



Aug 8, 2022  Issue #5,623.
A gentle reminder that if the regular readers don't donate yearly using the honor system, this small business here doesn't run in the black.  Thank you to those readers and advertisers who support it.  Yeah, I spent the weekend in QuickBooks and the year is already 60% over - I tend to get a little jittery after digging into the QuickBook reports ;^).
  Hope you had a nice weekend.  Sorry for the commercial.
  Contract pilot resume   


RV-15 from a distance: the Jurassic builder files. ...Smokey Ray

There I was, in front of the Vans booth at OSH 22' having just sneaked up on my buddy DR when....

"Hello Smokey" came a familiar greeting from a familiar face from a galaxy and life chapter far away. Yet it's seemingly a beacon to a supposedly ill-spent youth constructing and flying a personal airplane.

Richard "Dick" VanGrunsven and I go back nearly four decades, long before the current internet and personal device age existed. We've shared ideas and communication with a common theme, experimental RV aircraft design. While building and eventually flying my early RV4 and later RV6X, I've had many chats with "Mr. RV" and found him to literally coin the phrase, quiet genius.

Amid the throngs of Oshkosh 2022 spectators gathered around the RV-15 prototype, Dick and I chatted in a near-undisturbed silence. Somehow we'd been missed in the almost unoccupied Van's booth, holding vigil with Tshirts, hats and kit flyers.

With the obtuse, very unconventional-conventional gear high wing RV15 prototype next to us, Vans wry smile was detectable. When I queried him as to his thoughts on the shiny beast a few feet away his countenance changed to a grin yet his silence spoke volumes. Classic Van.

My association with The "lil' ole airplane company from Oregon" goes back to the late 1980s and a magazine on a F16 squadron coffee table. Seems I was inside our Top Secret 14th Fighter Squadron Vault in Misawa Japan, pondering which of the many restricted viewing volumes I would peruse today. On top of the pile on the table was a dated copy of Kitplanes. I quickly perused the pages while preparing to dive into the volumes of classified literature required of a modern day fighter pilot. At the bottom of a page was a small advertisement titled "total performance" and a picture of a sharp looking sport aircraft with "RV4" labeled below it. I scribbled down their address (websites didn't exist in 1988) and later would write them a note requesting information. What I received would change my aviation perspective and world forever.

A few weeks later my APO address received a large envelope from North Plains, Oregon containing some literature but more importantly a VHS tape. When I cued it up I heard corny music and saw what looked like a fly-in somewhere. It was a grass strip with a guy standing around a bunch of nice RV3s and 4s. He was using a handheld radio to direct traffic and there was a lot of it! Wow, I'm hooked. Regardless of time, cost or hassle, I was in, where do I sign?

My RV4 tail kit was ordered!  Nearly three and a half decades later, that same man is seated on a stool in front of me. We've chatted many times over the years, probably my most profound moment was after documenting a flutter incident in my RV4. Seems I was dodging thunderstorms on my way home from Guard Drill weekend, a 2.5 hour flight in my Four. Cruising at 11,500 surrounded by typical Florida afternoon towering cumulus clouds, I neared home. I began a descent weaving around the clouds as my strip neared. As I attempted to zip thru a hole in the clouds below and to my right, I increased forward stick pressure and my airspeed approached Vne. However comma, my true airspeed was well beyond. It was at this moment I began to notice a slight tickle in the stick which then got more frequent and with stronger pulses. I reduced power even more, held the stick gently with both hands as I slowed in a shallow climb. The rest of the flight was uneventful but many thoughts went thru my cranium. I decided to email Van with the data directly. He responded and suggested writing an article for the RVator that everyone could learn from. This I did and over the years I've received a surprisingly large interest and correspondence concerning it.

But I digress...

"So Smokey, whadda ya think of the 15?"

"Unknown sir as I haven't examined it closely, however it looks like many excellent airplanes from my past."  Having grown up with a Cessna 180 and owned a Maule M5, I'm sure it will serve the mission well.

Van and I would shake hands once again, part ways and I would disappear into the throngs at airplane Mecca. However, I would revisit the 15 during the night airshow to find it abandoned, dark and unlocked. As my special operator friends always said, "if you wanna good look at a target, go at night when no one's around."

I actually like the RV15 although I've said many times that Van could have stopped at the RV4, sport plane perfection notwithstanding.  It's interesting to see the estimated costs of building one now. Seemingly my old F35 Bonanza cost less than its engine and prop. The panel is another story. I told a friend that I can't afford to buy my RVs back now as they've been discovered!
Build again? Maybe.  RV15?  We will see.  Having actually helped build a Bearhawk 4 and subsequently flying it a lot, The RV15 has some healthy, albeit very capable competition.  It's in the same family of many similar kits and not to mention the similar certified aircraft. Did I say certified?

Yet the RV-15 has one thing the others don't; Vans Aircraft Inc.

With so many other similar designs out there (Murphy, Zenith, Glastar, Rans, etc) we will see if the Aurora Oregon juggernaut can hold the pace with yet another design.

My guess is yes.



Gap between rib flange and spar (practice kit)

I'm working on my last project kit before finally starting on my -10 in earnest. This is the control surface practice kit. When the ribs were clekoed to the front spar they were nice and tight; no gaps. As soon as I squeezed the rivets you could watch the flange open up ever so slightly. Same thing happened on both sides. What am I missing that is causing this? TIA!!


Resuming Building 7A after 7-year layoff

Captain Sacto here, (although I'm in Boise Idaho now).
My last post was in 2014, so its been a while.
I've finally got a space in a hangar to store my subassemblies, and I'm on a hangar waiting list, meaning that I can restart my building.
Looking at the changes in avionics alone is just amazing.
Glad to be back.
Tom in Sacramento (Moved to Boise Idaho)
RV-7A, Emp Kit finished (only 2 yrs!).
Wing construction officially started.


Ready for weight and balance ...griffg 7A

Just thought I would post a couple of photographs of my aircraft which I have readied so I can do the Weight and Balance on Monday.  When I have completed the weighing I will post the figures.


Fuselage Build Question ...Eric Vickery -10

I have a couple of questions. The first one is not specifically 10 related but here it goes. Once I am finished my plane is not going to be painted for a while. Do I need to prime the fiberglas parts?

The second question. I am about to start on the fuselage, however my landing gear mounts are on backorder. Section 25 page 25-3 step 1 it has you use the landing gear mounts to mark Fwd Center Section Bulkhead Assembly for a "notch" you have to remove. I am wondering what is the latest step I will still have access to that area to make the "notch" or do I really need to wait for the landing gear mounts?


SpongeBob SquarePants helping out in the shop ...PilotjohnS


Back in the saddle!  ...cpfeifer

Well guys I'm back, after almost 3 years! Life just happened and I put the project on hold. I have been working on the horizontal stabilizer. I ran into a problem where the hs-00005 forward most rib flange did not extend far enough hit the skin rivet. I talked to Vans and they told me to just remove some of the flange and that it would be ok put a -3 rivet in the skin.  --->


RV-4 Panel Shot ...Jordan

Don't credit me. I bought it this way. But it was nicely completed. Simple, clean.



Aug 5, 2022  Issue #5,622.
Nearly five days after returning home from OSH'22 I finally got all of the stuff unpacked from the RV-6 (below).  Relatively clean and about 3/4 full of gas.  Life is good.  She needs a bath.  Hopefully soon...;^)
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend. 
  Contract pilot resume   


OSH'22 ...50 years of RVs

Threw some pics and vids into a 3 1/2 min movie.  Did it all on my phone in about 20 minutes, which is crazy amazing.  Pocket-tech is sometimes hard to wrap my head around - ten years back this involved a LOT of gear.

Don't smash that like button.

Don't subscribe.

Don't even watch it.


FS Spotlight ...Stein has an engine for sale

CC-340 Engine, 2019, 132hrs SNEW, 0SOH
Hi All,

I have an engine that I ended up with that is now for sale, $37K.
It has 132 hrs since new, but 0 hrs since complete teardown, inspection & repair/ovh at Aerosport Power. You probably know this is a terrific lightweight engine that works well on many RV's.

Here are the details:

*ECI CC340, 180hp, fuel injected, dual LSE Ignitions. This is an experimental engine, not certified.
*Conical Mount.
*Originally sold to and flown on an RV-8 in 2019. The aircraft suffered a non-stoppage prop strike last year and was sent off to Aerosport Power in BC for a complete teardown and IRAN.
*Engine was inspected & repaired at a cost of over $10K, which included four new cylinders, new conn rods, lifters, new bearings and more (can provide Aerosport work order for your review).
*The engine has not flown since and is sitting in the shipping crate here in our conditioned facility.
*Hollow crank that is plugged currently for a FP prop.
*Includes dual LSE Ignition System.
*90 Degree Oil Filter.
*Original log from new.
*No other accessories included.

If you're interested, please contact me off list via PM, phone, email, etc.. As usual with anything we sell, this is a first come first serve deal. As a comparision, "new" ones are currently over $42K.



Gust locks...what worked and what didn't?

I have a 9A. I have used the AntiSplat gust lock for many years. Has always worked as advertised until Saturday, July 23rd. The gust lock did not break. It did pull back, as the wind blew the elevator, enough to pull the forks on the gust lock away from the rudder pedals. This resulted in the rudder being completely free to fling itself back and forth at will. Resulted in punctured skins, but more devastating, trailing edge rivets pulling out and buckling of the skin on the bottom of the rudder. It is difficult to see the buckling on my rudder in the pics below due to the red paint.


You Will Enjoy Reading This ...Ken Scott (Kitplanes)


Bonderite M-CR 1201

I was planning to use the 1201 product for corrosion resistance on my Skybolt flanges attached to the firewall. But, the instructions for the Henkel product indicate to paint after application, washing and drying. I wasn't planning to paint the flanges, but leave them treated. I contacted Henkel, but so far, no answer.

Anybody have experience with not painting after treating with 1201?


HBC Parking Into The Wind

[ed. A thread on the EAA board that I told a few folks I'd spotlight (we don't do organizational policy debate on VAF).  So, if you'd like to chime in, go to the link - EAA management will almost certainly see what you have to say.  v/r,dr]

"After the Big Storm on Saturday evening, conversation again turned to parking HBC with the airplanes facing west, into the prevailing wind, where all the nasty weather comes from. In effect, the most recent storm subjected the whole fleet to a 50~70 mph tail slide, and it seems like it happens every year. There were more than a few damaged airplanes, in particular A-model RV's.

The subject has been brought up by board members and others in the past, without success. Tradition dies hard at OSH, where airplanes have always been parked facing show center, except for the North 40, where they nest nose/tail to pack them in. Jack Pelton was due at the HBC pavilion Sunday evening to dedicate it to Van (entirely deserved!), so a plan was organized to solicit his support with some crowd encouragement...after proper prep via channels. The upshot was the question didn't require audience participation. I spoke with him, he knew the deal, and (I quote) "It's your fly-in. Tell the parking chairman what you want, and that I support it". Being me, I pushed a bit, asking "Can I tell him you said get it done?" The response was a clear "Yes".

That said, there are right and wrong ways to do everything. I think as a group, we greatly respect the volunteers who do the hard work, and nobody, including me, is going to be silly enough to tell them what to do. That probably includes Jack. Change will require consensus.

As Mr. Pelton said, it's your fly-in. If you want to park facing west next year, let's hear it. If not, let's hear that too. Either way, consider the greater good."



Aug 4, 2022  Issue #5,621.
  Contract pilot resume   

From Last Weekend's Thread

(Chris Odens -7)  Was supposed to fly with my son to Oshkosh for Fri-Sun but an iffy Sunday morning forecast and some can't miss plans for Sunday night caused a detour. Ended up camping on the field at Sky Harbor in Duluth Friday night and had an awesome time! Tired boy fell asleep shortly after takeoff on the return flight.


idubrov RV-7 #75069 ...status report

Okay, so the empennage parts are somewhat complete (except for the fiberglass and fitting parts together).

Still debating if I want all fairings to be removable or just the rudder bottom one (and maybe the elevator ones, so I can keep additional counterbalance weights inside them).


Germany via France ...Swiss14A from last weekend

Flew to Speyer, Germany for the summerparty of friends. Conveniently in a hangar directly at the airport. First stop overnight in Strasbourg, France.  -->


Pics of N332RT ...sent to me by Jim Clark

Tuskegee Airmen - 332 Fighter Group - Red Tails.  Done in honor of the Tuskegee Airmen.  BTW, it is signed by the "Original Top Gun"!!!!  The first gunnery type battle (that later got the "Top Gun" tag) was won by The Tuskegee Airmen!! Flying raggedy P47's. The trophy was "lost" until just a few years ago. I was able to arrange to get Colonel Harvey (about 100 years young) to stop by and sign it. I know my buddies got pictures and I think they got VIDEO.  several pics


Photos from the RV Social ...DanH

Took these early, before things got busy shaking barrels and changing taps.  Jesse won the t-shirt contest.  No matter how hard I try, I just can't grin like Andrew   We started at 4PM this year, earlier than in past years, due to a concurrent Vans event. It seemed to be popular, although let's remember that our vendor friends typically can't close displays until 5. Shall we keep an earlier start time?  Thank your sponsors! It can't happen without them.

Barrett Precision Engines (Rhonda!)
CQ Headsets (Scott)
Delta Pop Aviation (Don)
Flightlines (Tom)
Flyboy/Team Rocket (Blake and Vince)
JD Air (Darwin)
Kitplanes Magazine (Marc)
Lycoming/Thunderbolt (Chris)
SteinAir (Stein and the Gang)
xCruise/TruTrak (Andrew)

[ed. I didn't get to attend due tobeing on Boeing Plaza waiting for the airshow to end so I could reposition my plane back over in its original area - Van's had one of each model on the square Monday.  I really wanted to go to this shindig - airshow didn't end until 6:30 and we went straight to the Theatre in the Woods for the Van's 50 event afterwards.  v/r,dr]


Rudder Bottom Mod R-911?  ...Peter

Hey can someone look at these pics? I'm working on a previously owned 7 kit which looks like a mod was done to rudder bottom R-911, adding a wrap around piece of thin... probably .034 Al.

The blind rivets contact the aircraft fuselage aft skin at full rudder deflection, which limits full travel to about 32 degrees. I need to fix the limit restriction and I'm considering removing this piece unless someone knows of a good reason to keep it and make it work.



Aug 3, 2022  Issue #5,620.
Our downstairs a/c tripped a breaker Tuesday (100F+ for the past several weeks).  It's 35 years old and we were hoping it might last until Tate gets out of college next year....but if any of you folks run a/c install companies I might need to talk sooner rather than later if possible.  The freon is topped off and all the filters and units are clean.  Just old.
  It came back on, but Moondog is looking pissed. ;^)
  Contract pilot resume   


From this Weekend's 'What Did You Do' Thread ...AlexPeterson -6A

Went for a post-Oshkosh flight on a gorgeous Minnesota evening.

The first picture are some wheat fields surrounding the departure end of 17 at Henning (05Y) airport. The "blemishes" in the wheat field are knock-down areas from heavy rain.

Second pic is looking towards the west at Deer Lake.

Third pic is the post-flight plane longing to be back in the air soon...


Status Report ...agent4573 -7

My 7 was put on a 20' deck-over for a 50 mile trip to the airport. If youre willing to take the prop off or don't mind it overhanging a bit, it'll fit on an 18'. Anything with wheel-wells will be too narrow to let the gear through. If you don't have a winch to help get it on, I recommend the 750 lb drill operated Warn. It was just enough to pull the plane up slowly and safely onto the trailer.

You'll have to pull the prop and cowl if you put it on a tow truck. Our air intake was way to close for comfort, but this was only for a 5 mile ride.


Removing Paint

Does anybody know if Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover is ok (or not) to use on our aluminum parts? I've had a couple of instances in my build where my 2nd paint coat wrinkled and I ended up completely removing the paint using Jasco Paint Stripper and starting over... now I'm wondering if years later I might have corrosion or other issues on those parts?


RV-14 Data Point Returning from OSH ...riseric

Awesome flying machine !!  790 NM in 4,3 hours airtime.  I had good tail winds, averaging 183 Kts ground speed.  What an awesome flying machine !!!


Lycoming leaky cylinder oil return lines ...whodja

TSFlightlines makes a kit of perfect fit oil return lines. After tightening the hose clamps regularly I finally eliminated the constant oil leaking from the hose transition. Very well made.



Aug 2, 2022  Issue #5,619.
  Contract pilot resume   

Tony Kirk's Weekend Was Pretty Nice

...from the 'My RV Weekend' Thread ;^)


18min Video w/Van's Rian Johnson on the RV-15

...with Ed Hicks of Flyer.  Added to the RV-15.com page.


J-Stiffeners: doubler ok? ...dustin_96 RV-14

Ok bonehead move: I mis-drilled the lower stiffener for the right wing. The left one was done correctly but I didn't tape off the correct holes on the right wing.

Is it acceptable to use some extra stiffener material to create a doubler?


Mothership News


Cracked A step ...skiandtom

Several of us A type owners ( I have an RV-7A) have had to replace or repair a cracked step. I have had the experience and I think I have figured out the easiest way to remove and replace the step. You don't have to drill off any panels. Get out your plans and determine where the inner block is under the baggage floor and cut an oval shaped hole over it and remove the bolt. Next drill out the rivets holding the step out and pull the step straight out. You can remove the screwed on panel over the flap pushrod so you can vacuum out the River pieces. Repair or replace the step. It is easier to repair and reuse your old step of it can be repaired. Match drilling a new one would be challenging. If the crack does not extend around to the front side of the step, it should be possible to repair it. Van's sells the repair gusset. I sent mine to the guy who builds the steps for Van. I wish I could remember his name. Quick turnaround. Anyway, pop rivet the new or repaired step in and make an oval shaped hole cover and pop it in over the hole in the floor.


Broken tailwheel linkage ...tass

After landing today, and wondering why on earth I had gotten so bad at taxiing at the center-line, I noticed my tailwheel linkage had broken.

I have questions for you amazing people:

1. Is this repairable, or does it need to be replaced?

2. It looks like the one sold by JD Air, but they won't be shipping anything until the end of this week (away for Oshkosh). I would ideally have this fixed before flying home from SoCal to Seattle in the next few days. Does anyone else sell this part, or is there something else that will easily fit?



Aug 1, 2022  Issue #5,618.
  Contract pilot resume   

Monday 0930...OSH'22.
About to turn it loose on the world.

The following Sunday...
...said world has expressed interest.

Photo courtesy Van's Aircraft, Inc.


RV-15 Specific Info Page Created

Has all the info that has been released in one handy spot.  If you want to tell your friends how to get there, just tell them RV-15.com.  It'll fwd to that page.

It will live up here on the front page pretty much for the foreseeable future. 


The August RV Calendar Wallpaper

...it really couldn't be any other image.  The dead grass image was a very close 2nd, but this image was HUGE and well suited for the wallpaper.


I Got Home Safe ...please chime in


My journey begins...finally!

The ancient Chinese proverb, "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step" best describes the feeling I have today.

I looked back this morning to see that I joined this forum in September of 2015. I have simply been a silent observer on and off over the years witnessing the successes and defeats, and joys and struggles of many of you. Thank you for allowing me to sit on the sideline and watch. I suspect most of you will relate to the range of emotions a would-be aircraft builder experiences leading up to finally taking the plunge. Currently for me, I'm in the elated, overwhelmed, and ready to get started stage. It's reminds me of Christmas when I was 13 and received my first radio controlled airplane kit - a Sig Manufacturing Kadet Jr. I couldn't wait to get started then and nothing is different now.

This past week, I was fortunate to make the acquaintance of two individuals who have chosen to (reluctantly) let go of their respective desire to build their own airplanes and, as a result, I have become the proud new owner of a partially built RV-14A empennage and will become will become the recipient of an uncrated wing kit later this week.

Tomorrow, I turn 55 years old. With the blessing of my beautiful wife and a goal of balancing my faith, my family, and my career, I have set a (perhaps metaphorical) 1000-day goal of building and flying my own flying machine.

I know I will learn much from this amazing group of inspiring people and I hope in some small way I can contribute and perhaps inspire others as I progress along my path.

Let the journey begin!
Todd Bynum
Greenville, SC
RV-14A (Under Construction)


OSH Awards ...the chart


Theater in the Woods Video - Van's at 50 ...Iron post

In case you want to see/re-see the Van's 50th celebration that was held at Theater in the Woods on Monday night, it is now available on the EAA web site HERE.

The first forty-five minutes is young eagles, then they have about fifteen minutes of RV pictures as an "intro roll" while we were all putting on microphones, and the Van's show starts about an hour in.

I think the best part had to Van's last story about "Rainmakers" - once he told that one, I knew we weren't going to top it, and I wrapped up the program!



July 22 thru July 31, 2022  Issue #5,617.
During the week of OSH I'll be updating the front page very little - the links below are for the VAFrs at the show to report their own PIREPs and photo gallery URLs if they feel so compelled (I'll be one of those folks).  These will probably be the busier threads.  They will remain on the front page here through the duration of OSH'22.
  I'll see you in the PIREPs thread (most of my pics will be in my event SmugMug folder).  Enjoy the show!
  Contract pilot resume   

 OSH'22 VAF Links (NOTAM / Webcams)

"I got home" thread...yearly tradition.

PIREPs from OSH'22

Today's Posts 

New Posts

Picture Gallery URLs Online
....taken by VAF folks.  Everybody going has a camera in their pocket, so for those VAFrs who get pictures online in various galleries please put your URL in this thread. 

Related: Doug's pics ...updated on the fly with the iPhone throughout the days leading up to the show and each day (hopefully)

RV-15 Sub-Forum
...where the cool kids are

VAF Advertiser News @ OSH'22
...if you hear of any or if any advertisers want to chime in

VAF'er Forums (and appearances)
Spread out throughout the week.  Folks who visit this site and are giving a presentation at the show.

"I got here" thread


Introducing the RV-15! ....thread

[ed. I'm going to leave this section below on the front page through the end of OSH'22.  As I get more info I'll summarize it here.  v/r,]

RV Backcountry begins...

View the employee rollout photo album

(from Mothership replies gathered here and there)

Trapeze ropes in cockpit:
"The rope pull handles are test aircraft feature only, to enable emergency door jettison if needed."

Fuel Tank:
"The fuel tank in the cabin is only for the test airplane. Certain prototype aircraft design considerations are there to enable us to make engineering changes and adjustments (keep in mind, this is an engineering test prototype airplane), easily change configurations in weight/balance, loading, etc."

"No, not yet. This is the engineering prototype, from which we develop the kit airplane. We will take orders once we know when kits can be delivered. That takes some time."

"Early flight - not the first flight.
Very close on your the take-off roll estimation. Yes - Flaps were up.
Prop correction: Hartzell prop. Big one. Constant Speed.
Fairings come later. This is a test prototype.
Push rod controls. Standard Van's style design.
Trapeze handles are in fact for emergency door jettison. Good catch!
The pilot definitely works for Van's. Great guy, and accomplished test pilot.
Correct on the in-airframe latching mechanism.
Again, keep in mind that everything is an engineering prototype design at this point.
The fuel tank in the right seat area is for the test article airplane. Flexibility in test loading, engineering changes, etc."

Baggage Door:
The kit will have one.


Vans Aircraft Business Video Update - Apr 29



7/21/2022  Issue #5,616.
  Contract pilot resume   

Advanced Flight Systems - Dynon Avionics will introduce the new AF-6600 EFIS at Oshkosh AirVenture.

The new AF-6600 flagship features several upgrades while maintaining compatibility with the popular AF-5000 line.

- New Custom Flush-Mounted 10.4" touch-screen LCD. This new LCD has more vivid colors and is brighter than the AF-5600 LCD.
- Extremely Fast Display Updates with incredibly smooth map drawing. New Multi-Core Intel CPU that enables EFIS and Moving Map display updates at 60 hz.
- Faster Boot Time - approximately 20 seconds
- Dual Concentric Encoder-for a more intuitive user interface.
- Light Sensor for automatic backlight adjustment.
- New Compact Rear Cover- reduces panel depth requirements.
- Reduced Weight - approximately one pound lighter than an AF-5600 EFIS.
- Same Mounting and Wiring as the AF-5600 EFIS
- Compatible with all Dynon HDX SV-Network components


Bob and Carol Arrive at the Show (posted in the 'I'm Here' Thread)

"Scholler, NE corner of Schaick & Stits.  gave up on our usual spot, opted for shade (smart move)"


One of the nicer 'On Our Way' clips you'll see


Airworthiness certificate and transition training

Arnold Holmes issued my airworthiness certificate a few weeks ago and now after some health delays I need to "satisfactory complete a checkout from a CFI in this make and model (RV 7 tailwheel)" to start test flying with insurance.
I do have over 1100 hours of tailwheel time mostly in a Waiex (Sonex with a V-tail and a 6 cylinder Jabiru) but the insurance company wants make and model ! Live in S/W Florida (Ft. Myers) any suggestions ?
Any suggestions?
TIA, Kirk S.


Daily RV Pic ...rv8ch

Waiting for customs after an international flight.


iPhone Mount

I'm a ForeFlight user and like the features...so in my new to me RV-8 I have been looking for a way to mount an iPhone for local type flight - for cross country I take a full size iPad that I use in my T210N and reference that when I need to.

The Scosche mount has been excellent so far...no issues during light acro and minor bumps. Have not hit any bigger turbulence yet through. The way I have the phone on the mount it will handle positive G well - negative G it might come off...but has not yet. It does block the view, but not the access to, the switches but it is a quick grab and stuff under your leg moment away from being removed...

Question to the collective - am I putting any stress on the skin with the suction mount and pulling G? What else am I missing??


Fuel Tank T-905 Attach Bracket (9A)

The fuel tank attach bracket is made of 6061 angle. I have finished my tanks without leaks and moved on. As I was starting another section in the plans, I just happened to glance at a section of the fuel tank instructions, and now I'm wondering if I have to jump back to redoing something on the tanks. I did not prime the T-905 attach angle before I riveted it onto the inboard rib because I figured I'd hit it with primer when I paint the entire tank down the road. When I was building the tanks I was in the "don't prime anything" mindset, and I just didn't think about the fact that the mating surface between the attach bracket and the rib should get primer.

So the question is, do I just prime the rest of the bracket down the road when I shoot paint, or, is this critical and I need to rip things apart to drill out the attach bracket to prime that mating surface? I can't remember if I put proseal on that surface or not (I think I did on one, but not the second tank, because I realized that as long as I sealed the inside of the tank, the bracket didn't need it). I'm really dreading the thought of pulling off the access panel and drilling out the bracket just to cover a few square inches with primer, but now is the time if it truly needs to be done!


Air Flow and #6 CHT temp Tip

For months I've tinkered with several things to try to get my #6 cylinder CHT under 400 in climb. All other cylinders were great, but #6 in this heat wave would get to 415 in climbout (at 130 KIAS).

I had already removed both front air dams during phase one for cooling. Last week, I decided to test adding the air dam back to #2 cylinder. For a "TEST" I just used aluminum tape. It made ALL the difference I needed. In climb at 120 KIAS (steeper than normal for me) #6 CHT stayed below 400.

Today, put back in a permanent air dam on #2 cylinder. Same result on test flight. #6 CHT under 400 on climbout AND #2 to #6 CHT spread was within 2 degrees during cruise phase. PERFECT!!

If you're still building your 10, I'd re recommend making your air dams "removable" instead of riveting them in. I think it'll make it much easier for you to tinker with it as needed.


Back Riveting Problems on Rudder Stiffeners

Hi all.

I'm having a problem with rivets falling over while attempting to back rivet the stiffeners onto the rudder skin. After completing all the rivet work on the Horizontal and Vertical stab, I did not anticipate this giving me grief. I have double checked the rivet length and even confirmed that the 3-3.5s that the plans call for are correct with Vans. I noticed that my back rivet set couldn't be centered due to the inside radius of the stiffeners. I tried again on a test piece after shaving off some of the slip guard on the back rivet set, but I'm having the same problem. I do notice that its a bit difficult to keep the gun from slipping while applying solid pressure, but even on ones that I detected no slippage, they're still falling over. I'm so surprised that I've not yet encountered any other stories of similar troubles. My HS and VS went very well and I'm extremely happy with the quality of the work. I'm at a loss for what to do next. Am I doing something really stupid? Any advice? Has anyone else had difficulty with back riveting stiffeners?

I've attached an image so you can see what I mean.



7/20/2022  Issue #5,615.
It's always a surreal week, the one coming up. I'm reachable but not reachable - mostly you'll find me in triage mode trying to build a snapshot of the day's occurrences using the cell strength and bandwidth I can find. If I can get 20 pictures and maybe a couple of coherent sentences online a day I'll call it a win. I'm trying a new rig this year, stripped down with the main focus of just documenting what jumps out when the muse reveals itself, and throwing those pictures in my OSH'22 SmugMug gallery. In parallel with that I'm gonna spotlight some threads dedicated to the show on the front page here throughout the entire week and *hopefully* other folks will chime in with their PIREPs and picture links. We'll see how it works. You know what they say about plans.

If you're under the impression I know what I'm doing I can assure you I do not (but I'm going to try to get a good sampling for those who can't attend).

In a perfect world I'll get 50+ or so images of the RV-15 online pretty quickly from all angles (if possible) and if not I'll just get what I can get. Getting within 5 feet of that prototype might be a challenge considering the interest. Going to just roll with it. I do hope the last one to leave the show gets a picture of the RV-15-shaped patch of grass. That would make a nice August wallpaper calendar, even if it did go online a couple of days late.

That grass doesn't stand a chance.

The prep continues, and have a nice Wednesday.

Yours w/a long to-do list,
  Contract pilot resume   


RV4 Rudder Pedal Drawing

Hi team,

I have had to detach my brake master cylinders to achieve a proper brake bleed. In looking at the rudder pedal hardware I am suspicious about the hardware that was used by the builder. I have ordered the thumb drive package from Van's but that will take some to arrive. Since I have the right rudder pedal apart it is an opportunity to reinstall it with the correct hardware. Is it possible please for anyone here to post the Van's drawing for the rudder pedals?

Many thanks.



Fiberglassing - Final Stretch ...PilotjohnS

This week I got the front and rear skirts smoothed out enough with microballons / epoxy mixture to shot the first coat of primer.

I am using the Sherwin Williams sandable primer that builds up about 0.001" per layer. This stuff is really sweat. It goes on easy, sands well and produces a really smooth finish with 320 grit dry.

After first sanding, I found lots of defects in my fiberglass microballons / epoxy coat. For the final finish coat, I am going to shot over the primer with an Sherwin Williams aircraft paint, not so much to provide a finish painted surface, but rather to protect the primer and my final surface finish for the eventual aircraft painter. This paint and primer is compatible with the glazing compound one finds in the auto parts stores; making filling the pinholes and imperfections much easier and quicker.

For the windscreen, I squeegeed on a pure epoxy coat to fill the imperfections, but this didn't turn out so well. I ended up sanding most of the epoxy away to get it smooth again. The rear skirt I just smoothed with micro and epoxy, but I tried adding cab-o-sil to thicken it, and this was also a mistake. If I ever do this again, I will probably just do two coats of micro and epoxy; the first coat being thick to fill the big gaps, the second being thinner to fill the pinholes and remaining imperfections.
Attached Thumbnails


New First Flights Reported on Mothership



Had a visitor from faraway  Did nothing and went swimming after that.



7/19/2022  Issue #5,614.
Slowly building the pile of gear for the trip.  Bag is for if there isn't a mattress where I'm staying.  Got some alternates lined up - nice to have options.  Of note the links down below that will stay on the front page through the end of the show.  These are where you check in and post notes and pic links from OSH.  By doing this up front early I'm hoping to make searching for the RV stuff less time consuming.  Expect tweaks...
  Contract pilot resume   

Added to my OSH'22 photo pile


Converted a paper airplane into a real one ...DerekS

from the 'What did you do this weekend' thread.

Started my weekend early on Friday. All the paperwork has been in place for a few weeks on my RV-10 for a few weeks.

I got back from transition training with Zach on Thursday. I was as current as I would be.

Went out to the airport. All the things that were open for the airworthiness inspection had been closed and double checked.

Opening anything else would take me backwards.

Wind was down the runway, and the sky was blue but for a few fluffy clouds.

It was time. Obligatory phone call home, and one more RV-10 has taken to the air. She flew straight and true, climbed and ran, as if she had been waiting too long for this day.

The cherry on top was the hanger neighbors who upon seeing me ran out to capture video of what they suspected was my 1st flight.



RV-8 and the Photo Mission ...ArlingtonRV vid

7/15/22 was a pretty nice day in these parts. The sun was out, it wasn't too hot or too windy, the clouds cooperated by remaining mostly out of our way.

Aside from getting lunch, one reason for the trip was to try to get some air to air photography, or in this case video, because I was looking for a clip I could use as an end screen for my videos. For a first attempt, I think it turned out fairly well.

We took off from Chehalis together and so he wouldn't get too far ahead and have to wait for me to catch up, Carl used a lower power setting so I could keep up (his airplane is about 8-10 MPH faster than mine).

After I made the fly past that I wanted filmed, he formed up on me. I had the camera out to get some video of him, but just as he came into frame, I had to turn to avoid a cloud bank that was right at our altitude. Since there were a lot more clouds to the west, we just went home and called it a day.



7/18/2022  Issue #5,613.
A friend of 50 years gave me a photo of us back in the early 70's over the weekend.  I used it to update the 'About' page just because it made me smile.  Hope you had a nice weekend.
  Contract pilot resume   

Looking good fellas! (RV Formation)

I took a break from building my own -14 to help a buddy put the wings on his -14 at Speedway Airport (KHMP). We heard an awesome noise, and saw this.


Taping the Canopy

I'm closing in on installing my canopy. Fastback 8. The Showplanes instructions say to carefully tape off areas which should not contact adhesive, or should not be sanded prior to adhearing. I've been using painter's tape so far to minimize the residue, but I'm wondering if there is something more substantial I could use? Electrician's tape? Something else?


My RV Weekend ...this weekend's roundup.


Close Call in Marlette: DEER! ...goatflieg

I've had some experience with deer in cars; hit one long ago; missed many since then. I've read and heard stories about deer on airports; seen a few myself and tried to keep vigilant. But these caught me by surprise. Caught on video and worth sharing. Stay safe out there.


RV10 Plenum...Richard Connell -10

Some people PMd and asked me to show some more pictures of my plenum.


Need help identifying brakes

Hi all,
I'm trying to find replacement rotors. My brake setup is not matco - i believe it's cleveland but would like to verify.
From doing a bit of searching, the calipers are supposed to have a sticker on them, but no sticker is present. The only number I see on the left caliper is cast into the caliper, and looks like 405 to me.

Are liners / pads interchangeable between matco and cleveland? vans only lists one type for 5x5 wheels.


Status Report : Duhg

Feel like a milestone was reached today when a friend offered to crawl inside the aft fuselage to help me rivet the upper aft skin on. It's been a few months of navigating avionics.


Propeller/Spinner Filler Plates

Are the filler plates that go behind the propeller required for air worthiness?

Is this something that can come later on after flight, like the wheel pants and leg fairings?


Update 1 ...Manchu16

I was away wearing the green suit for two weeks. I appreciate all of the input. I still don't have the root cause, but I was able to get a few tests in today.

I am still experiencing the occasional miss. I was able to borrow a logging device for my engine monitor. Unfortunately, I didn't realize it didn't capture the first flight until we packed up.

1. The miss is still present if the electric fuel pump is on or off. While that doesn't rule out fuel delivery, it mitigates my concern the lower pressure of the engine driven pump causing the problem.

2. The miss is still present regardless of the mixture (ROP vs Full Rich). Still doesn't rule out fuel delivery, but helps rule out I am running too lean or too rich.

3. I did a short inflight test of each mag, but I want to perform the test again because I was not able to capture it in the log. The engine ran rougher on each single mag as opposed to both, but I noticed the miss in all 3 configurations. Ceilings were low and I wasn't comfortable performing the test under 2k AGL.

I have added two screen captures of the last flight. One is during the run up and the other during cruise and initial arrival. I placed comments on the screen captures. You can see the dips (which I believe represent the miss I am feeling) in all phases of the flight. Please let me know if there is a better way to share these.

I am wondering if this could be an ignition switch going bad (I have the ACS key type Off/L/R/Both/Start type). I am going to remove and tape off the leads to the mags before my next flight to see if I can confirm/disprove the issue.

As always any thoughts are greatly appreciated.



7/15/2022  Issue #5,612.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  Contract pilot resume   

Tango Flight Needs Mentors

(Dan Weyant)
Tango Flight (www.tangoflight.org) has been growing by leaps and bounds!

Our STEM based high school curriculum that includes building an RV-12iS has been immensely popular at schools around the country. For the 2022-2023 school year the Tango Flight program will be in 22 high schools from New Hampshire to Alaska!

We need your help! The best part of what Tango Flight does is getting builders and airplane enthusiasts like you working with young folks to help educate the next generation.

Please take a look at the list below and consider coming out to the mentor training over the next couple of months.

7/18 - 7/19 - Pryor Oklahoma - Mid-America Expo Center 5162 Webb Street Pryor, OK 74361

7/20-/721 - Tahlequah Oklahoma - Tahlequah Airport 2100 Airport Parkway Hangar 1 Tahlequah, OK 74464

7/22-7/23 - McAlester High School, McAlester Oklahoma

8/1 - 8/2 - Navasota High School, Navasota Texas
8/4 - 8/5 - Texarkana High School, Texarkana Texas
8/8 - 8/9 - Jarrell High School, Jarrell Texas

9/23 - 9/24 - Matanuska High School, Wasilla Alaska (Tentative date)

Training sessions are run over two days. 8:00 - Noon and 1:00-5:00. Ideally, we would love to have you at all four sessions but come to as many or as few as you can!

Please feel free to call/text/email me if you have any questions. We would love to have you come out to see what the program is all about!!!


Officially an Airplane ...Foghorn

Tom's Dream now has an airworthiness certificate. I wish Tom had lived to see this day in person but I know he's looking down and smiling. First flight should be in early August. I'm skipping OSH this year to go do some training with Bruce Bohannon at 81D.

Thank you Darrel Watson for the inspection and RV insight.


912UL Possible Vapor Lock

Couple of weeks ago a friend and I took my 912UL powered RV12 out for breakfast at an airport about 100 miles from my hangar. We arrived and the ramp temp was in the high 90s. Went to the FBO restaurant only to find out they were closed for the week. Less than 15 minutes after shutdown we restarted the RV12 and while taxing to the run up area I noticed it appear "sluggish" for lack of better term. As I started to runup for the mag check I noticed the cylinder heads climbing into the yellow, a short taxi back to the ramp and shut down followed. There were no visible leaks, oil level was fine, and so was the coolant level. Also no noticeable fuel in the carb float pans, floats have been checked about 50 hours prior. After an hour of trying to arrange ground transportation home one of the mechanics on the field recommended a restart. We started it back up, all appeared normal and flew it back home with no problem. The local opinion is it was vapor lock. Anyone experienced this situation with the 912UL?


Block Diagram ...BOHICA 14A

My block diagram for a Dual G3x system with connector numbers and buses. Still need to look over if I really need/want all the backup data paths in the G3x install manual. Took a lot of reading of G3x, GTX 650/750xi, G5, GMA 245, GSB 15, PPS, VPX, GTX 45R, GDL 51R manuals to work it all out. Block diagram is good for data bus stuff. Power distribution is a bit tricky but not shown here.


Welcome Marc Zubricki ...-10 (Newmarket, NH)

Southeast NH RV10 builder.  Just got RV10 Emp kit. Inventory complete planning to begin build in early fall. Looking for other builders in sea coast area to compare notes with.


Help with rudder rear rivets please ...-7

Hi. The rv 7 rudder rear stiffener rivets touch each other on the sides (not on top of each other) and only just...but enough to see they impinge on each other before touching the AEX wedge. Most of my rivets are .038 to .045 thickness and a few down to .036...one or two .033 but I was not going to remove them as more damage than good would result. If those rear most rivets were .050 and .122 wide they probably would not touch. Vans say "it's totally acceptable to over set the rear rivets to avoid contact". I think they would have to be squeezed to .025 or less to avoid it...thoughts?

Yes one rivet has a small bevel on it which I did to avoid contact as I thought I'd have to drill it out anyway...leave it?

I could use my squeezer on the rear rivets to ease them all down a tiny bit.


Stuck Parking Brake ...-7

I normally set the parking brake prior to engine start. This is a purpose built hydraulic valve that sets a check valve in place on both brake lines, then releases the check valves to release the brakes.

On my last start I noticed the right brake remained locked after I put the valve back in the release position. I wasn't going anywhere but in circles, so I shut down and cycled the valve a few times. I could hear the left side set and release, but the right side remained quietly locked. Then unfortunately the left side also began to remain quiet and then both brakes were locked.

I mounted my valve where I can actuate the valve lever itself, meaning it is not remoted with a cable.

So I was stuck blocking traffic until I could get the wheel pants off and loosen the hyd fittings at the brakes to release the pressure. The good news if any is that this was an engine warm up prior to my annual condition inspection so no disappointed passengers.

Anyone ever encountered this? Seems impossible but it was a very real nuisance.


Before and after polish & vinyl

After 40ish hours of flight, it was time to finish the "cosmetics".
Shamefully stole the general design from a few other RV8's.

It's not perfect, hey, it's an amateur build and that's what I am...
One of the most difficult aspect of polishing must be to reason yourself and stop at a certain point.
It's an airplane, not a Cartier jewel.

It certainly passes the 6 feet test though !!!
I'll have all winter with less flying to improve the finish



7/14/2022  Issue #5,611.
  Contract pilot resume   

The charity cap in some Airbus...
wishing it was in an RV.
Nice patina.

How important is oil cooler vertical placement? ...Steve M. -9

I've always had oil temps that have been about 10F higher than I'd like, especially on 90+F days where I can see high 210s in cruise. I've long anticipated swapping out my original Niagara 20002A with a HE-series from Pacific Oil Coolers that has a good reputation for significantly reducing oil temps but that also retains the same size footprint as the Niagara.

That said, I'm also wondering how much the vertical placement of the oil cooler matters. For instance, as you'll see in the pictures attached where I've installed 3 screws for a wintertime oil cooler cover plate, I could probably have gotten away with raising the oil cooler about 1", but think I didn't originally just because Vans FWF instructions were pretty cryptic and I didn't know what I didn't know. It does seem to make sense that having 1 less inch of cooler tucked behind the #4 cylinder where it does not get direct ram air would help.

Do you think raising the cooler 1" would have improved my oil cooler's performance significantly? Worth it? Are we talking no effect, 1-2 degree F impact, or maybe something more meanginful?

(As an aside, unfortunately, I can't simply raise my existing cooler to find out because I had to cut part of the cooler mounting flange to clear the engine mount but if I do swap it out with a new cooler want to know what I might expect if I go through the effort of locating the new one up a bit.)


David Paule -3B Status Report

Added the glass to the front of this bulkhead. And then separated the hatch from the fairing and trimmed the bulkhead. Put it together again and back on the fuselage for a fit check. So far it's fine. The front of the fairing is about where the cowl cheek bulkhead goes. I'll need to tweak the aluminum bulkhead, which was just a bit oversize on the right hand side, and remove the hatch's fiberglass one.

Before then, though, I laid up the beginnings of the flanges for the aft portion of this cheek extension. At this point, I'm only using two layers of bid and a cover of peel ply, because I wasn't sure how well this would work out. So far it seems okay. I expect to add more when this has cured.


Countersink or Dimple .032

I'm sure this has been asked in the past, but I can't find a definitive answer anywhere. The RV-8 left elevator instructions say to countersink many holes on the various spars made from .032. Section 5.5 COUNTERSINKING AND DIMPLING states that for AD3 rivets, .032 thickness or less must be dimpled and .032-.040 should be dimpled but can be countersinked if necessary.
I am leaning toward dimpling since it does not require the removal of material. It is also easier and less likely to ruin a part. Any thoughts would be appreciated.


Mark Landoll passing

It is with great sorrow that I post here the passing of Mark Landoll. Mark had a great passion for aviation. He contributed greatly to the aviation community during his lifetime. Many of you may be aware of Mark through the purchase of his "Landoll Ring". He was an inspirational builder, designer, aviator. Mark was a member of our EAA chapter for several decades. He contributed greatly to my personal aircraft construction and aviation knowledge. He will be forever remembered.

Mark Landoll Obituary:  HERE


kentlik Status Report ...7A rebirthing

One tip mounted but not complete


Dog Tie Down

I bought some steel rings at the hardware store, and combined with Adel clamps, makes a really good tie down point for my friends dog we transported from OKC to Corpus.

In addition, the CBD doggy snacks seemed to help too, normally this dog is a puker, but didn't have any trouble the entire trip (and it was bumpy).

Supertracks are a must if you are going to be hauling a dog in the back on a regular basis. For tip ups, I suppose you could train the dog to hop on the correct spot on the wing, and then into the seat, then into the back, but use a friends plane for the training

The other thing to watch out for (but gets better with training) is the dog wants to flail around while being picked up and loaded, so trim the nails if you don't want you or your canopy scratched up.

Edit: Sorry, realized this was in the RV-8 thread. For that, I would remove the rear stick, and probably go the crate route, at least initially. There is just no way to see what's going on back there, nor fix it if something get's hung up or the dog freaks out. I have seen some fearful animals do things you wouldn't think was possible. A harness instead of a collar is also a requirement, and cinched _very_ snug, at least until you are confident the dog won't try to kill you when it realizes it's up in the air inside a giant metal bird.



7/13/2022  Issue #5,610.
  I've distilled the RV-15 info that I currently have to what is summarized further down.  This info will remain on the front page through the end of OSH'22.  Over the next few days I'll generate a list of RV happenings at the show and will get that on the front page as well so you don't have to spend much time figuring them out.
  Contract pilot resume   

RV14 #141180 Central Minnesota ...L.A. Lee makes introductions

Hello All,

Just got my RV14 Empennage kit recently and I am very excited to get going on it. Anyone else recently get their kits full of duct tape? I've watched countless YouTube videos of kits being opened and never seen anything like it. Every piece was duct taped together with multiple pieces. This was frustrating because I was hoping to save the blue vinyl protective coating and strip out the pieces along the rivet lines( I know not necessary if painting). Anyway, there was no damage to the kit and it was well packed, besides all the tape.


Elevator Riveting ...-10

Hi All,

I tried to search this and didn't find anything. The instructions for riveting the lateral part of the aft spar says to build a special bucking bar. Or, order MS-316 rivets.

I was looking at this and wondered how many people actually made the bucking bar and riveted there vs. those who used the blind rivets. I'm not sure what to make the bucking bar from. Certainly looks like the blind rivets--while not as cool looking--are a more practical approach.

What's the group experience?


More from Last Weekend's 'What did you do...' Thread


Residual Thrust Effect on Glide Performance ...Vac

We've been conducting some emergency turnback experiments to support an EAA/FAA effort to develop planning tools and techniques for dealing with power loss during takeoff.

Foremost, the point of this post isn't to advocate for any particular course of action if the engine quits on takeoff--it's just to share data and lessons learned

My RV-4 is equipped with a light-weight, two-blade Catto propeller and is quite the glider in IDLE power. Some of that "glide" performance is the result of residual thrust provided by the engine in IDLE. If the engine is OFF (mixture in cut-off), glide performance suffers (by about 20% at the same AOA/speed). This is shown in the first chart for glides at L/Dmax and ONSPEED with the engine in IDLE and OFF:  --->


One of those days

It never ceases to amaze me how the easiest task can sometimes turn into a hair pulling nightmare of an experience. I had one of those yesterday. I simply needed to rivet in one of the small flap bracket attach angles. I had just done the other two flap brackets and was on the last, middle bracket. For whatever reason, riveting apparently just turned into a completely foreign concept all of the sudden. I'm guessing I had the holes between the rear spar and angle ever so slightly off kilter to where the rivet couldn't sit perfectly perpendicular to the material, because on my first attempt, two of the three rivets clinched over. I rolled my eyes, and like I've done many other times, I simply drilled the rivets out and reinstalled them. Same outcome! At this point, I didn't really want to drill them out again and risk screwing up the rear spar, so I asked Van's if it was okay to add two additional rivets in the angle instead. They said not a problem. So I drilled two additional holes, only to realize my spacing was goofy and out of line (was hard to see - that's another story). I got the additional rivets in, but the whole angle looks like a 5 year old put it in! It's structural, but wow is it ugly. My saving grace for my type A nature is that the flap gap fairing will cover up most of the rivets and I'll never have to see them again.

Even though academically I know that everything is totally fine, I'm still incredibly irritated at how bad it came out. Such an easy task.... Funny how my perfectionist tendencies are getting seriously exercised during this build.

No help needed. Just therapeutic to blow steam at the computer to people who probably understand! <g>



7/12/2022  Issue #5,609.
  Contract pilot resume   

Factory Unveiling of RV-15 Prototype to Employees

Big Tires and Fowler Flaps!

Monday afternoon the employees of Van's Aircraft, Inc finally got to get their hands and eyes up close and personal with the RV-15 engineering prototype.  These are the fine folks bringing you a game-changing product that will expand the GA market in ways we can't even imagine.  I wouldn't be surprised if half of the existing RV owners don't want one of these to expand their 'Total Performance' flight envelope.  What an exciting time!  If you're wondering if there is interest, the 'Introducing the RV-15!' thread was viewed over 20,000 times in the last day.

View the photo album

View the photo album

View the photo album




First Head Kadang on the RV-15 Flap Tracks Has Been Set Straight by Axel

The Question:
Who is going to be first to get the Fowler Flap track forehead indentation?

Mothership Folks Chime In:
(Greg) That may have been me. Not certain.

(Mitch) I am afraid that was me a couple of weeks back.

(Axel) Ok this is important stuff here folks. Let me just set the story straight on this. Greg was absolutely the first person to introduce himself with the flap tracks. Mitch was a few minutes later. I guess they both win. does anyone want to talk about primer? I can clear that one up too.


My RV Weekend ...more submits


Houston area monthly lunch (July 2022)

Yup, it's that time again. For a change of pace, let's try out the new-ish restaurant at Brenham this time around.

When: Saturday, 7-16, 11:30 AM
Where: Dreamliner Diner at Brenham airport (11R)


Elevator counterbalance skin to rib gap ...-14

Hi team!

Our elevators came out really nice, with the possible exception of this one issue. There is a noticeable gap between the counter balance skins and the flanges of the counterbalance ribs. Riveting did not help pull this in at all.

I don't see what I might have done different here. The skins went on these ribs very nicely and felt well aligned. The skins are VERY rigid in this configuration and have no willingness to get closer to the rib flange. I think the ribs are just "too short" by a small amount.

My inclination is to seal this gap with proseal to prevent moisture from intruding, and carry on.



Dimpling Question

I'm dimpling my HS skins using a Cleaveland C-Frame and dies. I'm getting a lot of distortion between the holes, particularly on the line of holes in the middle of the skins. At first, I thought maybe the holes were under dimpled, so I gave them one more hit, but it didn't help. I'm sure the dimples aren't under done, so I'm wondering if the distortions are normal or maybe I'm over dimpling.


I'm really enjoying building, but there is a steep learning curve...


#8 Screw Holes in Wing Flange for Fuel Tank

Section 13, page 13-03 has a note preceding Step 4 that says "Use a temporary screw in the nutplates to ensure proper alignment." Looking forward in the plans where the fuel tanks are attached, it calls out an AN509-8R8 screw. However, that screw will not fit in the hole as it's just a little bit undersized. Without opening up that hole I can't use a screw to hold the nutplate.

Elsewhere in the plans I see that the proper size drill for a #8 screw is a #19 drill. I'm scanning the plans to see if a #19 hole is drilled later on but it's a bit of a slog even using PDF find. There doesn't appear to be a step in Section 13 that calls out final drilling the #8 screw holes (or for that matter the #6 screw holes for the access panels).

Am I correct is assuming that this final drill of the #8 screws is done later in the plans? If so, am I going to mess something up if I do the final drill earlier than the plans state?

One alternative I can think of for alignment of the screw hole is to use a awl. I'm a bit concerned that if you final drill the screw hole with the nutplate already installed you run the risk of damaging the nutplate.

So to summarize here are my questions:

1. Should I final drill the #8 screw holes to #19 at Section 13?
2. Is there a reason the screw hole final drill is done later?


Re-assembly of Flash Post-Annual

...continues at Richmond Aircraft Service.  I ran the fairings and cowl over there (one row over) in the 'ol Ranger before lunch Monday.


How do you ensure you meet a climb gradient in your RV?

Okay everyone, I have searched for a long time now and not finding much of what people do with their RVs in this category.

I'm getting ready for my instrument check ride soon and while I know my RV pretty well at this point and its climb rate at various density altitudes, I doubt the examiner is going to accept my word and why would he if the topic comes up?

I have slowly developed a climb performance spreadsheet over time (and during phase 1) but it has a lot of incomplete areas because wildly different than standard days or low pressure altitudes don't present themselves where I live.

I suppose a possible good method would be to use a Koch chart but with the RV I find it to be extremely conservative. Like absurdly conservative.

Anyone have some advice/experience here? Thanks!



7/11/2022  Issue #5,608.
  Well, obviously the first two feet of today's edition is reserved for the RV-15 announcement.  The 'rest of the news' starts several screens down <g>.  What exciting RV times!  Hope you had a great weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  

RV Backcountry begins...

(Greg Hughes - COO of Van's Aircraft)
"...here's what our team has been working on lately.

Introducing the RV-15 Engineering Test Prototype aircraft.

This airplane was built to evaluate and test the design, and what we've been learning from this engineering "tool" test airplane will result in refinements and changes that will appear in the final "kit" aircraft design."

You'll have a chance to learn more about the prototype airplane during our forums on Tuesday morning at AirVenture in Oshkosh, coming up in just a couple weeks!"

(from Mothership YT replies)

Trapeze ropes in cockpit:
"The rope pull handles are test aircraft feature only, to enable emergency door jettison if needed."

Fuel Tank:
"The fuel tank in the cabin is only for the test airplane. Certain prototype aircraft design considerations are there to enable us to make engineering changes and adjustments (keep in mind, this is an engineering test prototype airplane), easily change configurations in weight/balance, loading, etc."

"No, not yet. This is the engineering prototype, from which we develop the kit airplane. We will take orders once we know when kits can be delivered. That takes some time."

"..... There are some features you just can't see (we can talk about those at OSH), and a couple things you mentioned were not quite correct...
Early flight - not the first flight.
Very close on your the take-off roll estimation. Yes - Flaps were up.
Prop correction: Hartzell prop. Big one. Constant Speed.
Fairings come later. This is a test prototype.
Push rod controls. Standard Van's style design.
Trapeze handles are in fact for emergency door jettison. Good catch!
The pilot definitely works for Van's. Great guy, and accomplished test pilot.
Softie is actually a parachute brand. :)
Correct on the in-airframe latching mechanism.
Again, keep in mind that everything is an engineering prototype design at this point.
The fuel tank in the right seat area is for the test article airplane. Flexibility in test loading, engineering changes, etc."


2+ years ago I took a stab at throwing together what I was hoping for:

Pretty darn close, and happy I am.  Of course I am going to build one (like thousands of others I suspect).  Most of the RV owners I've talked to so far want one of these to add to their 'RV envelope'.  It's going to change backcountry flying forever.

The heat index here in N.TX is going to be 112*F today - the shade under that wing will be most welcome.

The era of 'RV Backcountry' begins...


PS:  Finally got to change the icon on the 15 in the sub-forums below from:


How cool is that!


Related: Wallpaper Images



Now on to the rest of the today's RV news...


1st flight with grand kids ...Dvalcik

Lincoln's first flight in Grandpa's airplane, the Grand Kids were visiting over the 4th of July. Link is old enough now to take his first flight. It is so fun to look at flight through the eyes of a child. Even though my wife says that's me every time go up.

He had a great time and got the RV Grin. Many questions during the flight and hundreds more on the ground. He now he looks up at planes as they fly over.

What's better than the freedom of flight? Sharing the freedom of flight!


My RV Weekend


Broken Pitot Tubes at 92.0Hrs ...-12

Anyone ever seen a pitot tube broken near the front of the spinner?

On the flight back today I got airspeed unreliable. I was able to make a safe landing, but when I pulled the pitot tube it popped right out of the spinner.

It appears to have cracked circumferentially at about 3 inches form the front. No contact points or any rubbing from the spinner tip. Literally just cracked in open space.

I never noticed any unusual wobbling with the spinner. And I balanced the prop to .06 ips with a dynavibe at about 24 hrs flight time.

Any ideas?


U-00713C, DWG-C1, Nose Wheel Fairing Bracket ...wirejock -7A

Are these supposed to be loose?
They are not under any bolts. They fit over the washers.
Seems like the pant will vibrate. I suppose it's like that so they can be removed without pulling the axle bolt.


Petit Jean 2022 Date is Announced

The 2022 Gathering is ON ON ON. We will be gathering on the RV Mountain on Sept 16-18 with an early arrival day on Thursday the 15th. Usual great dinner at Mather Thursday night. Everything else is at the Rockefeller Center or on the ramp. From just hanging with old friends, to walking some amazing nature trials, and even taking a shot at some of those dastardly Petit Jean Trained Balloons with your fighter RVs... it's just going to be an awesome all RV Easy weekend on the Mountain. So yes.. It's all RV and it's happening on the RV Mountain at Petit Jean. Ask around ... a couple hundred of your closest RV buddies and buddettes can't be wrong Rooms are already scarce...  -->


Steven Dunkle RV-10 Milestone

Airworthiness doc issued (Vern Darley DAR)


Paul Merems Asking for Help

[ed. Paul runs ExperimentalAero.com and he asked if I could put a spotlight on him trying to get a Ukrainian family's dogs over to the USA with the family (it's expensive).  I offered to put it here so it doesn't conflict with the posting rules in the forums.  Paul put up a flyer HERE.  v/r,dr]


Help I'm in fuel hose H.E. double hockey sticks

Fuel hose between my gascolator and fuel pump sprung a leak. Time to change all the hoses, they must be 25 years old, although only 650 hrs of run. The failed hose took a 90 degree bend in a 11" of length end to end, failed in the bend somewhere.

Same hoses and fittings are used for fuel and oil cooler. Hose was stainless braided, with an inner rubber hose with I guess nylon braid or something similar. The fittings are all Earls, see pic.

Looking at spruce, I decided aeroquip was the way to go, reading the aeroquip hose catalog I landed on 601 as the proper hose. Of course this means I need new fittings, and the correct ones are $$.

Guys at the airport say "summit racing" sells aeroquip, same part numbers as spruce, but cheaper. I go to summits website, I don't see 601 hose or the fittings for it. I do see AQP hose which seems similar to 601, maybe just not "certified for AC"? Still, their AQP fittings don't look like the 601 fittings.

Can (should) I reuse the Earls fittings? If so what kind of hose?

This is getting long winded. Sorry.

I know what you guys are going to say...call aircraft specialtiy. And I am not against that, but want to know what I can assemble myself. They don't say what they are using, as in a brand, which makes me wonder. If not brand then tell me what specification it meets, MS or whatever, I have access to all that stuff.


#8 Screw Holes in Wing Flange for Fuel Tank ...-14

Section 13, page 13-03 has a note preceding Step 4 that says "Use a temporary screw in the nutplates to ensure proper alignment." Looking forward in the plans where the fuel tanks are attached, it calls out an AN509-8R8 screw. However, that screw will not fit in the hole as it's just a little bit undersized. Without opening up that hole I can't use a screw to hold the nutplate.

Elsewhere in the plans I see that the proper size drill for a #8 screw is a #19 drill. I'm scanning the plans to see if a #19 hole is drilled later on but it's a bit of a slog even using PDF find. There doesn't appear to be a step in Section 13 that calls out final drilling the #8 screw holes (or for that matter the #6 screw holes for the access panels).

Am I correct is assuming that this final drill of the #8 screws is done later in the plans? If so, am I going to mess something up if I do the final drill earlier than the plans state?

One alternative I can think of for alignment of the screw hole is to use a awl. I'm a bit concerned that if you final drill the screw hole with the nutplate already installed you run the risk of damaging the nutplate.

So to summarize here are my questions:

1. Should I final drill the #8 screw holes to #19 at Section 13?
2. Is there a reason the screw hole final drill is done later?



7/8/2022.  Issue #5,607.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  

RV-8 Status Report from Sweden ...Dennis Isaksson

Getting there!  When i started the project i thought that when it looked like this it is almost finished.... man i was wrong :O


Do you safety your oil filter?

The thread about re-useable oil filters got me thinking about the practice of using safety wire on the oil filter and if it is really necessary.

I use to do it all the time but I rarely do it any more. It seems like a waste of time and effort. It always takes a lot of force to loosen a filter that has been torqued to 15 ft lbs.

Is this just a out dated practice that's done because "it's the way it's always been done"? Maybe it dates back to a time when filters were more apt to loosen on their own?


PG 30-02 step 8Bend tab outboard ...14

Trying to figure out why this one tab on each side needs to be bent outboard by 3/32. Any one that has done this already have insight?


Capacitive tank sensor inop

RE: RV-7 with OP-07 plans built system installed.

First 300 hours, tank gages worked well! Then I started seeing intermittent quantity indication on the right tank gage. Ie., it would show 'E-open' occasionally. Now it displays 'E-open' all the time.

I found the center conductor of the coax cable that is mounted on the inboard end of the fuel tank to be grounded. So somewhere inside the tank the plates, wire, or mounting screws have shorted to aircraft structure ground.

The best option would be to add a float sender to the end cap. My question is:
can this be done without removing the wing? Is there enough room between the fuselage and tank to install the float assembly?

I spoke with Van's today, and was told the capacitive system is no longer supported or offered. If anyone has run into this situation and knows a better solution, please advise. Thanks!


Seen in the Field ...Jake14 data point

went to check the connections like you said but it looks like it's [ed. alternator] throwing oil


Tube from my ram air to my airbox is on its last legs.

On my RV 4 with an o360 the tube from my ram air on the cowl to my airbox is on its last legs.

It appears to be a 1/8"+- sheet of silicone wrapped around into shape to fit and riveted into place on the airbox.

Would anyone have any idea on where to get this or other practical options? Would the one from a Citabria fit if cut to length?


If you are ok with fiberglass work, you can do something like this. This uses a 3" SCAT hose between the airbox and the cowl engine air inlet. I suggest you figure out what size SCAT hose works best for your inlet and modify the airbox accordingly.


VAF'er Forums (and appearances) at Airventure 2022 ...Paul gets it rolling

Here's a start at the annual thread to let everyone here know where and when they can hear the many VAF'ers who conduct forums/events at Airventure! There are many ways to spend your time in Oshkosh - these will at least (maybe) give you a chance to sit in a folding chair for 45 minutes...

So here is where you can find Paul:

Monday - 1300 CDT - EAA Wearhouse - Book Signing
Monday - 1430 CDT - Homebuilders Hangar - Forum "Flight Test 101"
Monday - 1900 CDT - Theater in the Woods - Van's 50th Celebration (Master of Ceremonies)

Tuesday - 1000 CDT - Forum Stage 6 - Forum "Lessons from Mission Control"

Wednesday - 0900 CDT - EAA Wearhouse - Book Signing
Wednesday - 1230 CDT - Pilot Proficiency Center - Flight Testing Safety Seminar "Inflight Emergencies"

Thursday - 1430 - Forum 7 - Forum "Shuttle, Houston"

Let's see who else is speaking; where, what about, and when!



7/7/2022.  Issue #5,606.
   Contract pilot resume  

First Flight today...Joeyo68

Completed my first flight today. What an experience.
Handles well, just like an RV should. Needs a touch of right rudder. Pulled the cowls, all clean, everything where it should be. One of the guys in the hangar flew chase and got some air to air shots.


WWII B25 pilot ...TomSpencer46 post

Yesterday had the honor to give a ride in my RV10 to a WWII B25 pilot.  He is 97 and sharp as a tack. After leveling off I gave him the controls he can still handle a stick. His only complaint was he could not make sense of the Garmin panel. Thanks for your service Norm.


Status Report: motodave

Feels like progress, finished up with the fuel tank riveting and pro-seal (what a messy job) and also got the leading edges riveted and test fitted. Planing on waiting a week or so to test the tanks for leaks, big time fingers crossed!


Tube from my ram air to my airbox is on its last legs.

On my RV 4 with an o360 the tube from my ram air on the cowl to my airbox is on its last legs.

It appears to be a 1/8"+- sheet of silicone wrapped around into shape to fit and riveted into place on the airbox.

Would anyone have any idea on where to get this or other practical options? Would the one from a Citabria fit if cut to length?


Ruder Lock Ideas....

(edclee's 9A)
Here is what I made for my RV-9A. Works the best of any solution I have tried or seen. Trim to get an exact fit for your plane. Drop 10-32 screws into the holes and it works a charm. I fabricated a 1" pvc pipe to hold the stick in the back, left position to hold ailerons and elevator.

I used a stainless U-bolt. Some artistic hammering on a vise, and voila. See photo as utilized on our RV9A. You should be able to find thinner U-bolts if that is what you are looking for.

Hanging it at the bottom allows some flex during windy times, minimizing stress on the rudder... I would think. So far has worked well for us during 13 years and 1100 hrs.

I have a light aluminum carabiner with a remove before flight flag that I attach to my headset as a reminder. Have never forgotten to remove the rudder gust lock in all that time.


Garmin at EAA AirVenture 2022 - Seminar Schedule

Greetings VAF!,

It's hard to believe that OSH is just over 2 weeks away! I wanted to post a link to the full seminar schedule that will be available to interested attendees during the week of AirVenture 2022. The Garmin seminar tents 1 and 2 will be located just south of the main Garmin showcase tent (with air conditioning!).

We are greatly looking forward to catching up with our customers and friends throughout the week. Be sure to come say hi to all of us on Team X! Our training team has also been hard at work this year - here are some of the specific training and seminar opportunities that will be of value to the EAB community. Full schedule in the above link as well:  --->



7/6/2022.  Issue #5,605.
Work continues on Flash's annual.  A few this and thats to deal with, but nothing too out of the ordinary.  Hotter than the devil's balls here today...as they say.  Ugh.
   Contract pilot resume  


RV-8A fuel smell after landing

Hi folks:
I just "adopted" my recently purchased and RV-8A and did my transition training. It is a wonderful aircraft to fly. Lots of minor squawks but a possibly worriesome one that I wanted to consult the experts on this forum on.
I have a carbureted O-360.
After landing with the fuel boost pump on and mixture rich I get a smell of fuel that goes away. This happens every time on landing


More from this Past Weekend


Fuel flow fluctuation when hot

edit: Sorry...the title is misleading. I meant to type that the gauge-displayed Fuel Pressure fluctuates when the engine is hot....

Background: RV-9A with IO-320 D1A. Fuel flow read from a Red Cube (new) driving an EMS part of an Advanced Flight 5400 EFIS. Red Cube mounted on firewall next to a Weldon 8163A boost pump. Engine driven pump is a Tempest, and was replaced about 70 hours ago.

Issue: When the engine is hot, I often get low fuel pressure when running on the engine-driven fuel pump while taxiing or on approach with manifold pressure at about 15 inches. No stuttering or anything from the engine, just low fuel pressure at the very bottom of the green arc according to the EFIS fuel pressure gauge. Doesn't do this during flight, nor when the engine is not heat-soaked. Works fine in cold weather and first flight of the day.

Trying to decide if this is a problem. The engine performs well otherwise. When I first picked up the plane, the engine-driven fuel pump went out...noted when the engine kept dying while taxiing. Replaced the original Lycoming engine-driven pump with a Tempest at that time. That was about 70 tach hours ago.

Any thoughts...?


Gen Main Bus Fuse Blowing

I have a -12is stuck at a remote airport. Every time I try to start the plane, the prop turns about 1/4 turn and then the 30amp Gen Main Bus fuse blows. I have check all wiring for a short and found nothing. Has anyone experienced this issue?


Advertiser Spotlight:  RV Bits RV Wingtip Light Modules


Aircraft "home base" during Phase 1

My newly issued operating limitations reference my requested phase 1 test area:

"This aircraft must be operated for at least 40 hours with at least 10 takeoffs and landings in this geographical area: Region bounded by the following points, [airports listed here]."

They say nothing about where my aircraft is based. Can I safely assume I can rent a hangar in any airport within my test area and do phase 1 out of that airport, and would I have to notify a FSDO or my DAR if I changed home base?



7/5/2022.  Issue #5,604.
   Contract pilot resume  

Build Update ...ryankhall

Happy 4th of July!

July 1, 2017 was the day I started on the tail kit. Not sure where time has gone, but here's an update on where I'm at today:

I'm nearly done with the windscreen and I'm estimating that after this long, Holiday weekend I should be complete. After that, I'm done with everything I want to do here in my garage. I'm leaving the wheel pants and leg fairings for later.

Everything else is done! Wings completed, installed, rigged, etc. previously in my garage. VFR panel done. FWF, Engine, Prop, etc. all installed.

It's been all heart and soul! I've loved the build process. Definitely didn't enjoy certain parts of the build, but just carried on with the grind.

Thanks to VAF for keeping me motivated!


Leaking brake fitting

All, have a brake fitting that is leaking slowly but enough to put drips down overnight. I've tightened this as much as I dare, the only other option is to cut off the tip and re-do the flare (provided there is no other obvious cause causing a bad seal - like a piece of dirt etc). Is this correct thinking or should I try something else prior?


VAF'er Forums (and appearances) at Airventure 2022 ...Paul gets it rolling

Here's a start at the annual thread to let everyone here know where and when they can hear the many VAF'ers who conduct forums/events at Airventure! There are many ways to spend your time in Oshkosh - these will at least (maybe) give you a chance to sit in a folding chair for 45 minutes...

So here is where you can find Paul:

Monday - 1300 CDT - EAA Wearhouse - Book Signing
Monday - 1430 CDT - Homebuilders Hangar - Forum "Flight Test 101"
Monday - 1900 CDT - Theater in the Woods - Van's 50th Celebration (Master of Ceremonies)

Tuesday - 1000 CDT - Forum Stage 6 - Forum "Lessons from Mission Control"

Wednesday - 0900 CDT - EAA Wearhouse - Book Signing
Wednesday - 1230 CDT - Pilot Proficiency Center - Flight Testing Safety Seminar "Inflight Emergencies"

Thursday - 1430 - Forum 7 - Forum "Shuttle, Houston"

Let's see who else is speaking; where, what about, and when!


Panel Status: Terry Shortt


Model Decided

After our trip to Sun N Fun we have decided on our model. We checked out the Velocity XL and the Vans RV-10 and RV-14. While the mission is typically 2 adults and baggage I'm a big guy by all specifications. 6'6" 350lbs. The Velocity fit as long as I reclined the seat and didn't shut the door. It had the exact same feeling of me squeezing into a Porsche at Track Experience. I could do it as long as I didn't need to wear a helmet. The RV-14 was the easiest to get into due to the flip up canopy but with the seat all the way back my knees were still hitting the panel and the control stick was bumping on nose up. The RV-10 was difficult to get into but was a great fit once inside. Looking at the setup I think some modifications can be made to make getting in and out a little easier. It would involve setting the rails back about 3-4 more inches so that the seat could slide back for getting in and out of it.

Next step is a shop build so I have a proper place to work, tools and empennage kit purchase. Oh and solving my budget issue. All the little things.


PIREP: Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's

Thanks Steve and to EAA Chapter 1384 for hosting the fun Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RVs fly-in. Essex Skypark was well represented with four RVs flying in plus at least three from Easton. Attached are some pictures. For a more pics and write-up go Here.


One more milestone down, one to go! ...Joeyo68

After almost 7 years of building, RV7, SN 74466 officially morphed from kit, to aeroplane, with the issue of a Phase 1 CofA!

The weather is looking promising over the next few days. 🤞

The longer engine mount, with the 3 blade GT ground adjustable prop put the CofG smack in the middle of the envelope.

BEW - 1114.9lb

Happy Days


My RV Weekend....


Rear Seat G5 ...Australia

Here is a picture of a Garmin G5 that I installed for the back seat occupant on my RV8 with a fastback conversion. It's in the very initial stages of the fitout in the photo and I subsequently trimmed away the .063 aluminium so that there's no loss of view. It's secured with double sided tape and cable ties to preserve the integrity of the roll bar. I measured very carefully and it doesn't impinge on the front seat at all and the knobs miss the gas struts on the canopy. I went for the G5 because I thought that a bigger display set lower might not work so well. But seeing some of the other good looking setups on the thread, I might have been mistaken and that might have been a better way to go. The disadvantage is that as backup instrument it needs it's own pitot and static connections but it does work well and talks to the G3X up the front without issue. I had hoped that I could configure it to repeat the airspeed and altitude from the front but that's not the way it worked.


Milestone: HaveQuestions 7A

Whooohoo! The Empennage is DONE!

Got busy at work and didn't have time to focus on building. Took the long weekend to set the last few rivets on the Rudder. Now to review with a local to see if I did it well enough...


RV-8 and the Cloudy Holiday Weekend ...video

In typical Northwest fashion it was scheduled to stop raining right after the 4th of July. Saturday was looking to be the best day of the weekend, so we wanted to get some flying in, but the weather was still crummy enough that we couldn't go too far, particularly to the south.

We ended up going up to Skagit for lunch and then headed out the Strait toward the coast. The weather was calm as we neared Pt. Angeles, so we decided to go take a turn around Mt. Olympus then head out to Neah Bay then home.

It was a nice day overall.


7/4/2022.  Issue #5,603.
   Contract pilot resume  

In Congress, July 4, 1776.
The unanimous Declaration of the thirteen united States of America, When in the Course of human events, it becomes necessary for one people to dissolve the political bands which have connected them with another, and to assume among the powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the Laws of Nature and of Nature's God entitle them, a decent respect to the opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to the separation.
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness.--That to secure these rights, Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed, --That whenever any Form of Government becomes destructive of these ends, it is the Right of the People to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new Government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their Safety and Happiness. Prudence, indeed, will dictate that Governments long established should not be changed for light and transient causes; and accordingly all experience hath shewn, that mankind are more disposed to suffer, while evils are sufferable, than to right themselves by abolishing the forms to which they are accustomed. But when a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, it is their right, it is their duty, to throw off such Government, and to provide new Guards for their future security.--Such has been the patient sufferance of these Colonies; and such is now the necessity which constrains them to alter their former Systems of Government. The history of the present King of Great Britain is a history of repeated injuries and usurpations, all having in direct object the establishment of an absolute Tyranny over these States. To prove this, let Facts be submitted to a candid world.

He has refused his Assent to Laws, the most wholesome and necessary for the public good.
He has forbidden his Governors to pass Laws of immediate and pressing importance, unless suspended in their operation till his Assent should be obtained; and when so suspended, he has utterly neglected to attend to them.
He has refused to pass other Laws for the accommodation of large districts of people, unless those people would relinquish the right of Representation in the Legislature, a right inestimable to them and formidable to tyrants only.
He has called together legislative bodies at places unusual, uncomfortable, and distant from the depository of their public Records, for the sole purpose of fatiguing them into compliance with his measures.
He has dissolved Representative Houses repeatedly, for opposing with manly firmness his invasions on the rights of the people.
He has refused for a long time, after such dissolutions, to cause others to be elected; whereby the Legislative powers, incapable of Annihilation, have returned to the People at large for their exercise; the State remaining in the mean time exposed to all the dangers of invasion from without, and convulsions within.
He has endeavoured to prevent the population of these States; for that purpose obstructing the Laws for Naturalization of Foreigners; refusing to pass others to encourage their migrations hither, and raising the conditions of new Appropriations of Lands.
He has obstructed the Administration of Justice, by refusing his Assent to Laws for establishing Judiciary powers.
He has made Judges dependent on his Will alone, for the tenure of their offices, and the amount and payment of their salaries.
He has erected a multitude of New Offices, and sent hither swarms of Officers to harrass our people, and eat out their substance.
He has kept among us, in times of peace, Standing Armies without the Consent of our legislatures.
He has affected to render the Military independent of and superior to the Civil power.
He has combined with others to subject us to a jurisdiction foreign to our constitution, and unacknowledged by our laws; giving his Assent to their Acts of pretended Legislation:
For Quartering large bodies of armed troops among us:
For protecting them, by a mock Trial, from punishment for any Murders which they should commit on the Inhabitants of these States:
For cutting off our Trade with all parts of the world:
For imposing Taxes on us without our Consent:
For depriving us in many cases, of the benefits of Trial by Jury:
For transporting us beyond Seas to be tried for pretended offences
For abolishing the free System of English Laws in a neighbouring Province, establishing therein an Arbitrary government, and enlarging its Boundaries so as to render it at once an example and fit instrument for introducing the same absolute rule into these Colonies:
For taking away our Charters, abolishing our most valuable Laws, and altering fundamentally the Forms of our Governments:
For suspending our own Legislatures, and declaring themselves invested with power to legislate for us in all cases whatsoever.
He has abdicated Government here, by declaring us out of his Protection and waging War against us.
He has plundered our seas, ravaged our Coasts, burnt our towns, and destroyed the lives of our people.
He is at this time transporting large Armies of foreign Mercenaries to compleat the works of death, desolation and tyranny, already begun with circumstances of Cruelty & perfidy scarcely paralleled in the most barbarous ages, and totally unworthy the Head of a civilized nation.
He has constrained our fellow Citizens taken Captive on the high Seas to bear Arms against their Country, to become the executioners of their friends and Brethren, or to fall themselves by their Hands.
He has excited domestic insurrections amongst us, and has endeavoured to bring on the inhabitants of our frontiers, the merciless Indian Savages, whose known rule of warfare, is an undistinguished destruction of all ages, sexes and conditions.

In every stage of these Oppressions We have Petitioned for Redress in the most humble terms: Our repeated Petitions have been answered only by repeated injury. A Prince whose character is thus marked by every act which may define a Tyrant, is unfit to be the ruler of a free people.
Nor have We been wanting in attentions to our Brittish brethren. We have warned them from time to time of attempts by their legislature to extend an unwarrantable jurisdiction over us. We have reminded them of the circumstances of our emigration and settlement here. We have appealed to their native justice and magnanimity, and we have conjured them by the ties of our common kindred to disavow these usurpations, which, would inevitably interrupt our connections and correspondence. They too have been deaf to the voice of justice and of consanguinity. We must, therefore, acquiesce in the necessity, which denounces our Separation, and hold them, as we hold the rest of mankind, Enemies in War, in Peace Friends.
We, therefore, the Representatives of the United States of America, in General Congress, Assembled, appealing to the Supreme Judge of the world for the rectitude of our intentions, do, in the Name, and by Authority of the good People of these Colonies, solemnly publish and declare, That these United Colonies are, and of Right ought to be Free and Independent States; that they are Absolved from all Allegiance to the British Crown, and that all political connection between them and the State of Great Britain, is and ought to be totally dissolved; and that as Free and Independent States, they have full Power to levy War, conclude Peace, contract Alliances, establish Commerce, and to do all other Acts and Things which Independent States may of right do. And for the support of this Declaration, with a firm reliance on the protection of divine Providence, we mutually pledge to each other our Lives, our Fortunes and our sacred Honor.


7/1/2022.  Issue #5,603.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  

Michael Wellennzohn's RV-10 is Back in the Air

The change from VP200 to ACM and new Cockpit took a bit longer than planned but now we are back in the air again :)


Found During Flash's Annual ...

Thinning (wear) on the tubes caused my RV-6's leaks.  Photos by Randy Richmond.  Four pictures starting HERE.

Getting her ready for OSH.


PhatRV's DIY Fairings

For my RV8, the wheel fairings and leg fairings were completed using the plans build instructions. The left and right wheel fairings were aligned using the simple contraption in the picture below, keeping the left and right ends in alignment and the cant angles the same on both sides. The holes for the clecos were closed with micros when done.

I decided to mold the intersection fairings myself instead of buying from the suppliers. For the negative mold, I use the soft non-hardending modeling clay from here. I tried to use the window sealant foam but it was messy and difficult to clean.

This stuff doesn't harden but you can shape it and it keeps it shape firmly enough for molding. I used 3 layers of fiberglass after a few liberal coatings of PVA mold release. After demolding, I had to coat the exterior with epoxy and micro and sanded smooth. The added thickness smooth out the bumps and added additional stiffness to the intersection fairing. The last picture shows the intersection fairing pieces after they were painted with primer.


-3 Gear Dampers ...Ironflight

I want to preserve this information in the RV-3 forum, even though it is partially copied from a thread over on teh RV-4 forum - the RV-3 gear legs are wet noodles enough that some form of stiffener/damper is generally required, and the wooden ones have always been a bit marginal for us.

I just finished doing this modification on our -3, something I have contemplated for quite awhile, but never got around to doing. At our annual a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the wooden stiffeners had de bonded, and weren't doing much...so it was time. And with only one test flight in the box, I can still give a pretty definitive answer that the metal stiffeners are better! Our wooden stiffeners were on there from day one, and with almost 800 hours, and were doign very little. The truth is, we have always had a shimmy with these spindly RV-3 legs - we just controlled it with lower tire pressure, braking, and avoiding certain taxi speeds.

Installing metal dampers was probably a total of about six hour's work - I spread it out over a couple of days, but it was straightforward. Based on notes from Dave Paule, I used 1/8" x 1-1/2" aluminum, and seven Adel clamps. I removed the rubber from the Adel clamps, mostly because I was worried about the outside diameter affecting the fit of our gear leg fairings. Largest Adel is -18, smallest is -12, and they are spaced to where they are naturally tight on the gear leg for their diameter - note that this is NOT evenly spaced. There's a single wrap of Gorilla Tape under each clamp, just to seat them better.

Spacers were required between the clamp and the metal bar stock to put the center of the bar stock through the center of the gear leg. Screws are low-profile #10 Allen heads, 1" long, and fastened with low profile nylon lock nuts. Washers and s machined bushings were used for spacers, and there was approximately a single washer difference between adjacent clamps. The existing gear leg fairing fit right back in place!


Quote of the Month ...DaleB

I feel like I've spent half my life looking for that tool I just had in my hand a minute ago.


July Wallpaper Calendar ...Ed Hicks pic


SloMo 6A TnG Video Today at My Home Field ...

Plane turned final as I was driving into the airport.  Pulled over and got out with the iPhone. <g>.


Seen on the Mothership


Mike6a's Panel Shot


Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RVs ...plane count by Steve Koziol

I wanted to post a quick plane count on our Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's this past Saturday. We had 32 RV's make the trip to our little airport with another 5 non-RV's rounding out the official total of 37 aircraft. Unofficially we had another 10 aircraft mix of RV's, GA and Experimental aircraft including a Gyrocopter that wanted to see some awesome RV on the field arrive toward the end of the day. Food consisted of some very fine and large Hot Dogs chips and fresh Brautwurst supplied by our own Marty Teramini. Special thanks to our Registration team who presented each Pilot and Crew with a cold bottle of water and a bag of Toll House cookies. Tons of bottled water rounded out the serving and water was placed strategically thought-out the flight line and meeting area. Yes, it was forecasted to be hot, and it was. Thanks again to all of you who attended and supported our flyin. We look forward to hosting this again in 2023!


TrukSnave's New Panel



6/30/2022.  Issue #5,602.
   Contract pilot resume  

Welcome Mark Reid

Hi all my RV aviators . Just joined the forum today . So thought I would show you my new RV 6.  Completed all the test flying in January as well as my conversion. I left the spats off while practicing landing at all the short Grass runways. She has all of 48 hour in total


Trent Stewart's Rolling Tool Masterpiece

All my Aircaft specific tools are in here - it's been absolutely invaluable and takes up a 1/4 a metre of floor space. I pretty well have it next to me and at the conclusion of each small task the tool(s) I'm using get put back. Especially important with squeezer dies and drill bits - only ever have one of those out of the cart at a time.


Fuel leak

I have removed a totally electric fuel system from my RV7A and have redone it to a Vans blueprint system with one mechanical pump and one electric pump. Once complete, everything was pressure tested with no leaks found. Now after 10 flight hours I have found leaks coming from the 90's where they connect to the fuel selector valve. When I was assembling this system, I could not fully tighten the 90's because they would be out of position to line up with the fuel lines coming from the tanks. There must be a simple solution to this I just can't think of it. Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
2006 RV7A 3rd owner


Mr. X Pic

It's been awhile.  This climbing out of Aspen with showers and a low sun.

full size

related: The Mr. X Folder


Looking for RV-9A and lots of questions

Hi all! I just sold my Mooney after owning it for 12 years and looking to replace it with an RV-9A. My flying has changed quite a bit and I think the -9A would fit the bill nicely. I need to learn about all of the quirks, gotchas and things to look for when buying and owning.

I have done my own annuals and repairs on my Mooney for the last 6 years, so I'm no stranger to airplane wrenching and intend to do the work on the Vans too. I assume the annuals are pretty straight forward?

I'm open to any of the usual engine options from the O-235 to the O, or IO-320. I just really want an aircraft engine and not a conversion. I am on a budget, so it doesn't need a full IFR glass panel and all the bells and whistles. The 235 engine intrigues me for the slightly lower operating costs and maybe lower acquisition price?? Anybody here have one built with this engine? Real performance numbers?

Also, I will be looking for somebody to do a pre-buy inspection hopefully and also transition training. I live in Northern California and have been an EAA member for for over a decade.

Any help would be awesome and thanks in advance!!


Kit Lead Times Update ...mothership Greg

We've just updated the lead times on our website for several of our RV airplane kits - namely most of our tail/empennage, fuselage, and wing kits. We're working hard on finishing kits and hope to update those in the near future. Some of the lead times have been brought in significantly as we produce is larger and more predictable batches. We will be refining these lead times even more as we continue to refine the data and gain more experience in our new processes.

As many of you. know, we have made significant changes at our factory to accommodate order volume and better predictability in production and delivery. The new lead times calculations are one of the results of that work, and we continue to implement additional layers of changes.

You can check the current kit lead times out at the link:



6/29/2022.  Issue #5,601.
Excuse the early push - side hustle to help w/the fam budget.
   Contract pilot resume  

From the 'Tools Organizing' Thread ...LukeD entry


Chris Hrabe Polishing PIREP

I've gotten a few inquiries on the methods / materials that I used to polish my RV-9A that's currently posted for sale here.

First off, I didn't start out as an expert, nor do I think of myself as one now that I've polished one aircraft. However, I did contact the experts at NuVite, and following their advice and a fair amount of practice I think I've mostly figured it out, and I'm seeing good results. Your milage may vary.


Stick to the Plans

An article in Kitplanes on Tony Kirk's RV-7 painted like Randall Henderson's 1994 Portland RVators' fly-in T-shirt (Scappoose, OR - Home Wing).  [ed. Not to be confused with the VansAirForce.net logo up top <g> v/r,dr]

Wonderful article and a beautiful RV!


Aircraft vs non-aircraft parts: when is it ok?

We all joke about getting supplies from the National Aircraft Parts Association (NAPA auto parts store), but while working on my avionics lately I've been using a mix of Adel clamps from Home Depot and ACS (you never have the right part at 9am on Saturday morning with the rest of the weekend scheduled and free for working on the plane, and I am planning on going back over and replacing the HD clamps with ones from ACS later.).

I'd never use a non-aircraft rated part in a critical area such as the engine compartment, but as I fought to secure an ACS Adel clamp in a difficult location I thought about the 1" HD clamp sitting on the bench that had far less resistance and would be far easier to use.

So what do you think? When, or would it ever be, ok to use an a non-aircraft vs aircraft rated part in an aircraft?


Panel Upgrade ...Bud K -4

I recently updated my 2002 panel. Replaced my Rocky Mountain Instruments EMS/Altimeter and Microair Transceiver/Transponder with Dynon Skyview HDX and Garmin 175 GPS. And, since I was at it, I added a smoke tank.


Engine Preservation. Cheap, hopefully effective apporach

My Titan Engine is supposed to be preserved. It's been out of the desiccated bag a a few months now as I flounder with baffles, firewall component layout, cowling, etc. Can't over-fill the engine with oil until after I install the governor (on order) so working in circles as always.

Already had desiccant plugs installed in the cylinders. Got nervous and attempted to desiccate the engine ullage space. Utilized three sizes of vinyl tube (7/8" ID down to 1/2" ID) from the STC/PMA aisle of Ace hardware nested together/sealed down to a 1/2" nylon barb connection. There's less than $20 in this including the lb of reusable desiccant (from ACS).

Cheap = Big yes
Effective = Should be. We'll see. The worst thing that can happen is if the desiccant never indicates.

Before someone points out the lack of an air pump, etc. gonna say that equilibrium is a wonderful thing.

The desiccant dries very easily in the oven. Already done it a few times for the plugs. Here's a pic of the cheapa$$ dryer laying on the mount. Will secure it with a velcro strap. I'll update on perceived effectiveness if anyone wishes. Powerplants aren't getting any cheaper.


Sneak peak! ...jcarne

Okay, I couldn't pass up posting this picture of my plane smiling while getting some vinyl.



6/28/2022.  Issue #5,600.
   Contract pilot resume  

More From the 'My RV Weekend' Thread


Wingtips Move, Hinge Method  ...SeanB update

Update...I added hinge material forward of the existing on both top and bottom runs. I got well into the curve of the leading edge with hopes of arresting play between the eyelets. Had to bevel a few eyelets to get them to interlace. It was quite a bit of extra work. Result? Right wingtip is still moving, but not as much. Maybe 1/8" up and down at trailing edge. Tighter than it was. Left one is about the same as before. Maybe 3/16" movement, but firm. Not sure if it was worth all the effort. In all other aspects, the tips are very solid.


Why is #3 so hot on climb-out???

I have a major CHT problem with my #3 cylinder that has me "baffled" so I am asking for advice. Problem is getting worse with the hot weather here.

Two year old RV-9A with O-320-D2B 160HP rebuilt engine. Engine was built with all new Lycoming cylinders. Plane has about 140 hours total time. Dual Pmags timed at 2* ATDC. Garmin G3X panel. Catto fix pitch prop.

On climb out, #3 heats up fast and run as much as 100* hotter than the other cylinders. EGT is 150* hotter than the average of the other cylinders as well. I have to stay below 200-300 fpm climb to keep #3 below 425*. Oil temps are fine at 190*. Oil cooler is mounted on the firewall and gets air through a 4" duct behind #4. Even with all this air diverted from #4, it runs relatively cool. These is no air dam in front of #1 and there is a stock full height air dam in front of #2. Any air dam in front of #1 only makes the problem worse. Fuel flow is 13.5 GPH at full rich during climb.

Here is the kicker: once at cruising altitude, all the CHT's level out and #3 is slightly cooler than the other cylinders. If #3 had a vacuum leak, it seems it would be worse at cruise than during climb out.

My baffles fit well and all gaps and holes are sealed. The inlet ramps are sealed internally. I have tried the washer trick between the rear baffle and #3 cylinder, but it seems to make no difference. There are no fins near the screw anyway.

One other piece of info that may or may not be relevant: I have 78/80 compressions on #1,2 and 4, but only 70-72/80 on #3. I has been this way since new. Air leakage during the test seems to come out the crankcase, so it is getting past the rings. I don't see how this would affect my heating issue, but it is suspicious, no?

Has anyone tried to duct air transversely across the top of the engine? Would the ASA electric shutter system solve this problem?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Kentlik 7A Update ...Wing Stuff


Rare miss in flight

I was hoping this group could help. Recently bought a 7. In flight at cruise, I get an occasional miss or stutter. So quick, my passenger doesn't notice and my engine monitor does not catch it. Literally like it just doesn't fire on cylinder on one revolution. It doesn't always happen, but some flights it may do it 5 times over a 15 min period. It is noticeable enough to get me wondering what is going on.

O-320 160hp, one bendix mag (300 hrs since oh) and 1 PMag (300 since new).
Enriching mixture does not prevent it.
Running elec Fuel Pump doesn't prevent it.
I have not done an extended single mag cruise test as it doesn't happen that frequent and concerned about running on a single mag for 15+ mins.
EGT/CHT appear normal.

A&P checked;
Compression 75 cold across all cylinders. Borescope clean. No visible damage to plug wires. Mags timed. Plugs looked great after 40 hours since last cleaning. He is at a loss. Recommendation to get both mags serviced/overhauled. Then replace wires if that does not fix it.

Before I start sending parts off for overhaul and replacing items I was hoping this group may have other ideas on what to check or may have experienced something similar.



6/27/2022.  Issue #5,599.
It was a quick weekend with a couple of side hustle sims and mowing our neighbor's yard (their premature twins came home from the hospital and there's no way that guy has a free nanosecond).  Weekend gone too fast.  Hot.
  Hope you had a nice one and got to do RV stuff!
   Contract pilot resume  

First flight RV-9A ...cgeyman

Uneventful first flight- but high CHTs of 430 cylinders 1 and 2- need to cut down the air ramps. Fixed pitch Sensenich composite prop- really miss my prior constant speed engine on my prior plane. Flew well, starting phase one and still doing engine break-in.


Milestone: Draker 7A

2022-06-23: It's done. Airworthiness certificate in hand!


Milestone: First Engine Start ...Joeyo68

All went well. Happy Days!


Vinyl Skinned Panel ...Larry Larson PIREP


Oshkosh 2022 HBC Beer Tasting?

I've not been on the forum as of late since, I've been building a house in western NC. Excuse me if I've missed the thread. I searched, but found nil.

The Sunday evening pre-oshkosh HBC event was created by Mike from Baltimore. I've assisted & managed the event in Mike's absence. I will be in attendance this year & I'm willing to keep Mike's tradition going with the usual volunteers.
Mike, please chime in, so we may continue this popular event.

Jerry & Jay, can we count on you, as you've both been terrific in making this event a success.


What's behind your panel? (Pictures)

Looking for ideas and inspirations on wiring.


DanH Sealing Baffles Reply

Be sure to run a tiny bead across the aluminum wrap when installed over the above. Don't want air leaking between the aluminum wrap and the outside of the RTV/glass wrap.

I have closed larger gaps with a strip of RTV impregnated glass fabric. That said, most leaks are best closed with a plain bead of sealant.


Move wings without flatbed trailer

My family is moving to a new home (with larger garage for airplane factory...ok, there's more reasons than just that) soon and I am looking for ideas on how to safely transport the wings. I've seen people use flatbed trailers and strap them down. I could do that, but I'll already have a Uhaul and am trying to figure out a way to use that instead. I also just like the feeling of them being enclosed in a box truck better than strapped on for dear life on a flatbed trailer. Only issue is that there isn't a great way to secure them to the floor in a Uhaul that I can think of. There are no points to strap them down.  -->


Front Cylinder Air Dam Question

My RV-10 has always had it's #6 cylinder as the hottest on climbout (I know this is normal). It's usually the only one to get above 400. I had previously cut both air dams off for cooling of front cylinders. My right bank is fine (Cyl. #'s 1, 3 & 5). But I was curious if adding the dam back onto the left bank (#'s 2, 4 & 6) may help #6 cooling. I realize #2 will get a little hotter, but if it cools #6 more, I'm ok with that. Here's a screenshot of engine data on a 100 + degree day in south TX. All cylinders below 400, except #6 which got to 416. Cruise temps are all 380 and below.

Has anyone added the air dam back AFTER taking it off? Is so, what difference did it make for you?


My RV Weekend


RV-6a wing removal in a field

I bent up my RV6a yesterday while landing at a remote airport. Thankfully no injuries. Nose gear damage and prop strike.

I was not the builder. I need to remove the wings for transport back to my home field. From what I understand, the main gear needs support to get the wings out.

Any suggestions for doing this in a remote grassy field with a folded nose gear?

I've read about making a false spar but I'm not clear how that would work.

The stress from the incident along with the wing removal is a bit overwhelming. I started on the smaller spar bolts and as others have noted, it's not easy.



6/24/2022.  Issue #5,598.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  

Van's AirVenture 2022 Banquet Tickets On Sale Now

[2/25/22 0004Z update:  SOLD OUT]
GET YOUR TICKETS now for the Van's Aircraft Banquet at AirVenture 2022! They're available to purchase now on our web store. The dinner event will take place on Tuesday evening at OSH, as the Nature Center Pavillion. Seating is limited to 300 guests, and we look forward to seeing you there.

Door prizes, 50th-anniversary stuff, and more!


Paint PIREP ...Bill E (-4)

PPG Desothane Milspec flats
At my dayjob, we do depot maintenance for a large USAF flying gas station, which is entirely flat grey, AKA "Camo Grey" and some flat white and black for the markings. We use PPG Desothane which is a very robust 2 part urethane aircraft paint. It doesn't have the same full flat absorbency that leaves grease marks and stains, and can be washed like any other paint. I painted my RV-4 with gloss Desothane white 12 years ago, and it is some of the most durable paint around.


Confusion about breaking the edges on the elevator counterbalance skins ...-14

Q: Hi, I have the same question (the first I post on this forum )

"It's clear where to break the counterbalance skins."

This is not clear to me. The E-913 counterbalance skins are underneath the elevevator skins. Should I break the counterbalance skins towards the fairings?

Thanks for input.

A: Here's where you should break the counterbalance skins:


Fathers Day present from one of my sons ...Bsquared

Me and my 14-A


Forward and Aft CG Check in W&B Record

I have a forward and aft CG check in my W&B spreadsheet to give a basic limit check. The values are dependent on a standard passenger weight of 170. FAA raised the summer standard to 190# for 121 last year and wondering if it make sense to do the same. Is it typical to follow the same standard in the 91 world?


It's time for a change

I have been in turmoil for a few months trying to decide the direction to go. I started my RV career in an 8a put about 400 hours in it and worked on it making changes the entire time, enjoying every minute. As the family grew I decided to move into a 10 which I have really enjoyed flying and upgrading it along the way. I looked at picture of a past memory in the 10 and it was 9 years ago, amazing how time flies. The kids are now grown and Can't remember the last time I had 4 people in my 10. I still carry a lot of gear or supplies in the 10 but the 8a use to handle my carrying supplies just fine. Pulling the trigger to sell my 10 is the hardest part but I really miss flying an 8, I really love the centerline flying so that's why a side by side just wont work. I'm turning 60 next month and the safe thing to do is go back to an 8a, but there is a lot larger market with the 8 and you don't have to take the constant badger from the tail wheel pilots. <g> . Thinking ahead for the next 10 years should I keep waiting on the perfect 8a or should I get some time in the tail wheel to see how difficult it really is, or will be when I'm approaching 70? I also might find out that the tail wheel guys just have big ego's. (just kidding) Telling my wife will not go well, but the other problem I solve is my screen name will once again be correct.
Tim Blake
Colleyville, Tx
RV8a Purchased flying (many changes) Sold
RV-10 Purchased flying.. Panel upgrade complete.


High Oil Temp Follow-up ...Jim Stricker -12

As a follow-up to my original post #1... I modified the lower cowling to move the oil cooler 1" forward. Worked a charm...  Now in cruise flight, at 75 OAT, I see 207F oil temp. I should have no problem staying in green arc with exception of long climb on really hot day


Panel Wiring Service Loops

I've been working on my wiring lately and I'm almost to the point of hooking up one side of my modular panel. On my copilot side I have a GDU450 and a couple of rows of circuit breakers. I routed some of the wires into the area behind that GDU450 and I'm ready to start making connections to the panel. I was trying to figure out the best way to route those wire bundles such that I would be able to pull the panel out and allow enough room to remove connectors and etc. I'm wondering what others have done? Did you just allow some extra length and not worry about supporting that length? I was a little worried about doing that. Did you make a loop with a cable tie and plan to clip it prior to removing the panel? Any thoughts and/or pictures would be helpful.


Importance of Wire Support ...KHeidorn

My flight ended with a low voltage warning.

The "B" lead attached to the alternator was not supported sufficiently and over 250 hours of vibration caused the terminal to crack then arc.

Certainly, could have been much worse.



6/23/2022.  Issue #5,597.
  Excuse the early push....BBQ date with wife. ;^).
   Contract pilot resume  

Ed Hicks photo (from the archives)


Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's

Well, we are on the final phase of preparing and setting up for our 2022 Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's at DMW in Westminster, MD. The weather is shaping up to be a nice dry and HOT weekend. We will have plenty of water to cool you down from your flight. Bring a GA friend along and introduce them to the world of RV's. Yes, food and friendship are on tap. Safe travels and remember that Runway 34 is a Right Pattern! Any questions, call me at 267 614-8251. Steve, RV9A


Fuel level sender wire broken...WingnutWick

Been asked to fix a fuel sender wire coming from the tank that has a broken ring terminal connector. (see photo). I figured I could probably just rotate the flathead fitting there to unscrew it and replace the connector but when I do it just keeps spinning without coming out. Having no experience with these senders from a maintenance/build/install standpoint I am curious if I am going about this the correct way. Do I have to pull the entire plate off to be able to get to the other side to unscrew this? If so, how much of a pain is that?

Thanks all!


Let's Flood EAA With RV Pictures! ...Ironflight

Many of you are aware that Airventure is going to be celebrating the 50th anniversary of Van's Aircraft big-time on Monday, culminating in a two-hour session at Theater in the Woods (starting at 7:00 pm - plenty of time for the Beer Bust and the show!). As part of that event, they want to have a background slide show of RV pictures - flying planes, planes on the ground, building pictures, and pictures of "RV-ers". So this is your chance to see your picture up on the big screen at theater in the woods!!

So scroll through your build and flying pictures and send a couple (or a hundred!) to "chenry@eaa.org" (not me, not here on VAF, not as a PM - a real email with attachments to Chris Henry...) as soon as you can! Let's crash the EAA mail server if we can!

And then - come to Theater in the Woods and listen to stories from Van, Rian, Greg, and some flyers/builders. It should be a great evening.



Bent fuel line, cause for concern? ...again Wingnut


Noticed the right side fuel line in the cockpit was a bit crimped coming out of its fitting. Wondering if this is a cause for concern/needing to be fixed? 9sorry for the poor photo)

Thanks all.


20-25psi oil pressure drop during flight

I'll try to provide enough information, but not be too wordy about this very strange problem I've been experiencing.

At start up, I'm getting 79psi for oil pressure. By the time I take off and about 10 minutes into the flight, the pressure drops to about 76-77psi. (I'm thinking this is probably ok as the oil warms up, the viscosity changes and pressure drops). A few more minutes into the flight and it drops to about 74-75psi. As soon as I start doing aerobatics, it drops into the mid to high 60's. Negative Gs drop it much more quickly. Going back to positive G regains some of the lost pressure, but not much. Hard positive Gs also reduce pressure a lot. For example a hard 5G pull to a 45 upline or vertical upline will drop my pressure by about 5psi immediately. If I stop doing aerobatics, and fly level for a few minutes, the pressures come back up by a few psi, but never get back into the 70's. At it's lowest point, it's showing about 54psi (my alarm goes off at 55psi). If I pull the throttle way back (to about 2100rpm), point the nose slightly down, I'll regain about 2psi. Level flying back to the airport and the pressures will very slowly get back up to the high 60s/ low 70s by the time I'm turning final. Back on the ground, I'm back up to about 73psi. On other flights, it never even gets back into the 70's.

But I don't need to do aerobatics for the oil pressure to drop. Even "hard flying" (pulling 3G-4G turns, hard pull to 45 upline, hard push to 45 downline, etc.), or aggressive climb will cause pressure to drop. And yesterday in 100 degree heat and fully loaded with fuel, a passenger, full smoke tank, and about 8lbs of stuff from Aircraft Spruce in the back, I didn't do any aerobatics at all, but the pressure dropped into the high 50's by the time I climbed out to 3000ft.

What is going on?? I have the Raven full inverted oil system, inverted fuel, fuel injection, GRT EIS for engine monitoring.


Canopy locked indicator light

Please excuse me if this has already been covered in the Forum. I recently purchased a factory built RV-12. I've flying since 1978, but I'm not immune to mistakes. With the unseasonably hot, humid weather in Georgia this spring I've been taxiing with the canopy about 2" open, resting on the closed latch. An instructor friend of mine recently commented that taking off with a canopy unlatched is the primary cause of fatalities in an RV 12 and suggested that if I plan to keep doing this I should invest in adding a canopy lock indicator light. I think that's a great idea. Can any of you tell me if there is a system designed to be used with an RV 12, and where can I purchase it?


Torque for oil cooler lines

Q: Does anyone know the recommended torque for the 3/8 npt inlets to an oil cooler?

A: Refer to the builders construction manual. Because some of the fittings have a specific 'clocking', an actual torque isnt achieveble. So, generally, snug then 1.5 to 2 turns more WITH THREAD SEALANT, being aware of any necessary clocking.



6/22/2022.  Issue #5,596
  Bowl full of screws can only mean it's annual time!  After not too much time the heat decided it was time for me to find an air conditioner.  Little bit here and there this round...
  Of note:  My late father's Snap-On lineman's pliers far right.  Decades of patina.  I love any opportunity to use them.
   Contract pilot resume  


Help Dave w/his Article

"Share your VAF experience.  For part of a magazine article I am writing I'd like to hear some compelling stories about how the Van's Air Force site has helped you: a: connect you to the Van's community at large; and/or b: helped you or motivated you in your RV building process."


Wire Mgt ...Hwood PIREP


Second Fly In ...goatflieg

I've been so busy making videos I almost forgot to share this. Father's Day was a good one for me; got up early and was airborne at sunrise to attend the EAA Chapter 113 Father's Day pancake breakfast at 1D2. I've waited to attend this one in an airplane for years.


Looking for someone in N. TX receiving an empennage soon


I've got to redo the rear spar on my HS....it's a $60 part but due to size, it's $420-$650 to ship! Is anybody in the N. TX area expecting an empennage shipment soon that would be willing to allow my VERY light rear spar to be included in their shipment???

Thanks for considering!

Rich Grue


Mothership First Flights Reported


RE: Ducati Regulator...mwtucker PIREP

Attached is the wiring diagram from the Rotax 912 (carbureted versions) installation manual (section 24). There is provision for adding a warning indicator. To use this feature, a 12-volt indicator (bulb or LED) would be connected between the "L" terminal of the regulator and the "C" (+12V) terminal. If using an LED, the anode must be connected to the "C" terminal and the cathode connected to the "L" terminal (possibly through an external dropping resistor, see caveat below). When an error condition occurs, the regulator connects the "L" terminal to ground, causing current to flow from the "C" terminal through the indicator to ground. NOTE: There is a current limit in the indicator circuit. The manual says a 12V/3W indicator can be connected. That would mean that 250mA would flow if a 12V, 3W indicator was connected. If you use an LED make sure the LED is 12-volts (has a built-in current limiting resistor) or you will need to add a resistor to limit the current to 250mA max.



6/21/2022.  Issue #5,595
  Yeah, the tire has a leak.  Started the annual by de-cowling and removing panels.  Added the tire to the list <g>.  Getting her pretty for OSH.
   Contract pilot resume  


More from the Weekend


-3B Status Report ...David Paule

Before I can do any of the engine stuff, I've got to get the cowl into shape. You might remember that the cowl cheek extensions were pending. I received the gray fiberglass RV-4 extensions. And since the RV-4 cowl is longer than the RV-3's is, the RV-4 cowl tapers closer to the fuselage at the aft end. The extensions are therefore not as high. This led to a decision needed, between the three approaches to fixing this.

I could position the extensions aft far enough that the shape would extend between the aft end of the cowl and the front of the extension, more or less a flat wrap. Here's how that fits:  -->


Smooth Operator ...Taltruda on Fiberglass Fairings

Look how nice it looks when you make your own fairings and hardly use any screws at all! The more screws you use, the more puckering you get between screws.


Wings 98% done...nohoflyer

My solution for securing the aileron hinge pin.



6/20/2022.  Issue #5,594
  Hope you had a nice RV weekend.  Imma look into that leak in my right tire starting Monday....usual MX cycle of life ;^).
   Contract pilot resume  


My RV Weekend ...6/18-6/19.


Seaside, OR (56S) fly-in Sunday June 26

[ed. Added to the VAF Calendar.  v/r,dr]

All pilots and especially RV-ers are invited to the Seaside OR BBQ Fly-In this coming Sunday June 26.
We'll have coffee and donuts for early arrivals, then BBQ burgers and dogs etc. from Noon-2pm. Nothing fancy, just good flying and friends at a nice coastal airport.  The fly-in is in conjunction with the EAA chapter 105's annual Poker run and this will be one of the stops, but anyone is welcome whether they're doing that or not.  We've partnered with some local hotels who are offering discounts to fly-in visitors that weekend as well.
Details at seasideairport.org/fly-in
(please read, especially the safety info).
Hoping to see lots of RVers there!


Compression Ration Update ...UrbanM

Thanks for all the responses! Just into the initial teardown stages and found the intake valve keeper to be the culprit. No idea what caused this. The valve was in 3 pieces in the carb and intake. The other 3 cylinders look good.
I've contacted one recently retired DAR and one current DAR and they both said changing the C/R is not a major change. The pistons appear after market with some numbering but no manufacture name. Right now I'm planning 8.5 to 1 stock pistons for 160HP. The data plate says 175HP but who knows how that was determined. So...if we take 2-4 percent per point of C/R a minus .7 we get 1.4 to 2.8% decrease. Using the (Unsubstantiated) 175 @ 2700 per the data plate the most HP I would loose could be 4.9. I am limited to 2600RPM due to the prop so I doubt it is even that much.
I have been offered a Catto prop recently which would bring the PRM back to 2700. The plane currently makes the Vans cruise numbers with the Metal Sensenich but it likes runway.


Phase 1 Testing: Max Gross?

Operating Limits show need for testing speeds and specifies weight at that testing.
Q: Is it a requirement to test the aircraft at maximum gross weight and at the max forward and aft CG limits the kit manufacturer has designed for.

A: (Mel) YES. If you want to operate to those limits. There should be a paragraph within your phase II operating limitations that states:

"The pilot in command must not perform any maneuvers that have not been flight-tested or operate the aircraft outside the weight, airspeeds, and center of gravity limits tested. (51)"


Dynon interface modules installation pics ...jcarne input

I use hinged trays that go from main panel to subpanel. Can put a lot of stuff on them. ADAHRS modules are in the back of the plane on their own shelf.


Broken Cowling Piano Hinge ...Jim Stricker update

A follow-up to post #1... Hinge was replaced and "smoke" pattern from loose hinge loops was noticed on right side of lower cowling. My friend cleaned both halves of the piano hinge with brake cleaner and then used a toothpick to smear some clear GE silicone inside the hinge loops. He let the silicone dry and they reassembled. Hinge pin was a little hard to insert on initial reassemble but result is a clean cowling with no "smoke" trail. Only about 5 hours flying time but results look promising...


Mike's RV10 build

Yesterday was empennage inventory day. I found a small dent in a side skin, maybe nickel size, not very deep. It appears to have been caused by a forklift. The crate damage wasn't obvious from the outside. My thought is it's not an issue, it'll get filled with body filler at paint?



6/17/2022.  Issue #5,593
  Had a three hour hole in the schedule Thursday so I went out to the airport for the first time in 11 days to fly the RV.  Almost a flat tire while doing the preflight <sad face>.  Aired it up and monitoring - no RV flight and will check on it over the weekend.  Got a reflective pic before getting on the threadmill.  A real scorcher here today - felt good to at least see real airplanes.  Crazy sim busy...many emails to answer.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend with no leaks.
   Contract pilot resume  


Another RV12 Takes to the skies.

Today at Gamston, England. Bob Dawson's new RV12. Well done Bob on a good build. Re pitching prop tomorrow, otherwise all good.


2022 Oshkosh RV Social

Monday July 25th
Starts When The Airshow Ends (actually, earlier this year, see below)
Ends When The Kegs Run Dry (or about 10PM)

Just got back from the Great Western Adventure. The Fairy was waiting on the front porch, and immediately accused me of neglecting my duties...you know, like the old sot is herself real reliable....

Anyway, yes, it's on, same place as last year, same time...Monday evening, first official show day, in the backyard of the second house just outside the Waukau Ave EAA gate. We'll open the taps a bit earlier this year, like 4 o'clock, so those who wish may develop a celebratory attitude prior to attending a Vans 50th Anniversary forum over at the Theater in the Woods. I think it's scheduled for 7PM, perhaps 7:30; check your schedule. If you attend, do return to finish the kegs. The Fairy hates to waste beer.  -->


Wheel Cover ...flyboy143 asks

Where is the missing 1/2 inch?


Milestone: Weighed ...Foghorn

1096 lbs
76.88 CG

Still need wheel pants and paint. The red on the cowling is 2080 wrap. It's a failed project. The engine heat causes it to bubble. Wingtip wrap is looking good.


5702-75-060 washer ...-4

My rv4 plans call out 5702-75-060 washers next to the spherical rod end bearings on the elevator pushrods. I don't see these on the Spruce sight. I can't find anything on google that tells me anything special about them. Are they just steel washers with non standard thicknesses? My kit is pre 1990 and it has passed through other owners so I have no nice organized hardware kit. Can I substitute AN washers if I have a good fit?


-3B 5th Point Pickup Point ...David Paule PIREP

I had no idea what angle the strap would make to the mount. But I did have a length of honking big piano hinge. This was taken before I added rivets to those empty holes.


Garmin GTX35R ADS-b setup

If I install and have calibrated the GAE12 encoder, do these connections look proper for ADS-b data being sent to the transponder. Without the GAE we are not seeing any altitude data on FlightAware, etc.



6/16/2022.  Issue #5,592
   Contract pilot resume  

From Last Weekend ...in the latest 'What did you do' thread

First trip with the little woman to see the in-laws down in Toulouse. Just under 2 hours each way, and picked up a nice tailwind on the way down.


CHEAP cleco caps.

Okay... so I drank the koolaid on cleco caps. Unfortunately they are A: My preferred vendor has them no longer available, and B: the others are almost half the cost of a cleco itself... There had to be a way. Here it is.

McMaster.com part number: 9753K16 $4.33 for 100 caps as of this post.
Amazon leather punch ASIN: B07D28DBC6 $6.63

How to make:


Houston area monthly lunch (June 2022)

Hey everybody - it's that time again. Let's keep it simple this time and just head up to Hooks for burgers.

When: Saturday, 6-18, 11:30 AM
Where: Aviator's Grill at Hooks airport (KDWH)

I probably won't make it this time - my parents are going to be visiting, so I'll be doing stuff with them. But who knows, maybe they'll want to go have lunch with a bunch of weird airplane people...


Elevator skin dented and torn

Removed the horizontal stabilizer to move to the hangar and wouldn't you know that same day I dropped a drywall paddle mixer from 6 feet. Already have an email into Vans support but looking for other options as to a fix.


Fuses vs ANL Current Limiter ...johnbright PIREP

Don't confuse a fuse with an ANL current limiter. A current limiter takes much more energy to blow and can be sized the same as alternator output capability.

These are the notes I put on my schematic re alternator B lead fuse/current limiter/fuselink:

  • Littelfuse MIDI (or, alternatively, Bussmann AMI, physically interchangeable with and sized the same as a MIDI) fuses are specified on this schematic for the alternator B leads versus legacy Bussmann ANL current limiters because they are physically smaller; 30 mm vs 61 mm bolt center to center.
  • Bussmann ANL current limiters with the same rating as the alternator could be used but Littelfuse MIDI fuses of a higher rating are chosen. It is assumed the alternator is capable of 120% of its rated output, this is divided first by 0.75 (nuisance blowing factor per Littelfuse "Fuseology" document) and then by 0.95 (temperature re-rating factor per Littelfuse MIDI fuse data sheet, a conservatively high 170F firewall temperature is assumed).
  • Main alternator: (60 * 1.2) / (0.75 * 0.95) = 101A, close enough to 100 to choose a 100A MIDI.
  • Vacuum pad alternator: (35 * 1.2) / (0.75 * 0.95) = 59A, a 60A MIDI is chosen.
  • MANLs aka Mini ANLs (which are not ANL current limiters but rather fuses similar to Littelfuse MIDIs) are physically interchangeable with Littelfuse MIDIs but are not specified on this schematic because manufacturers are unknown although Bob Nuckolls says MANLs such as KnuKonceptz are OK. If used, MANLs should be sized like Littelfuse MIDI fuses.
  • Alternate for alternator B leads is FLW (fuse link wire) 6" long and 4 awg smaller that the B lead, PICO brand is common; available from 10 to 20 awg.
  • FLW is a slightly cleaner installation; Bussmann ANL current limiters, and especially Littelfuse MIDI fuses, open with less energy.

    You heard it from some guy on the internet.


Notches ...-14

Anyone know what these notches are for?


RV-10 Fabricated an Aileron-Elevator gust lock ...Storch

Completed during the annual.

It needed to be safe with absolutely no possibility of causing a control jam. Additionally I wanted it to be very easy to operate and light weight. It weighs less than a pound.

Slide the tongue forward and put the locking pin in place when on the ground. Place the locking pin in the co-pilot seat back when not using.

BTW- the locking pin is an old VHF antennae, cut and bent to specs. Welded a washer to attach the lanyard to it.

Used material that was lying around.

This is a prototype, proof of concept. Hence no paint and lots of extra holes. Simple, free $$ and easy to build.
It works well.


RV-10- Fabricated a Rudder gust lock ...Storch

We've all seen tons of rudder gust locks, here's mine completed during the annual.

It had to be effective, safe (difficult to forget to remove prior to flight),light and very convenient to use.

I measured the O.D. of the rudder pedal arm verticals post, then found a piece of 4130 tubing whose I.D. was slightly larger. I then used a hand grinder to split it down the middle (that was the goal anyway), then bent a piece of 3/16 mild steel into a 90 and welded it to the tubing half. I attached them to the rudder arm with a single adel clamp.
The red arms are from an old street sign we had laying around. You need these arms to be fairly stiff.
I then drill a hole in the tunnel cover and mounted an AN bolt with with a cotter key hole in it.
The red arms in the picture were the prototypes, the final ones are similar but a little cleaner.

Construction tips:
Place an external rudder gust lock in place to center the rudder. Then ensure you push each rudder pedal firmly forward. You will then see where the ruder pedals will be when locked. I then eyeballed that the arms would need to be about a foot long.
I then mounted my bolt in the tunnel.
I then fabricated my arms, drilled a hole on one end to go over the 3/16 90.
I then swung the other end of the arm over the bolt in the tunnel, kinda scraped it on the bolt as an indication where to drill the hole for that end.
A not of caution, ensure the rudder pedals are firmly pushed forward before you mark your drill hole on the arm end that will go on the tunnel bolt.
Why? Because the rudder cables have no springs and if the pedals are not pushed firmly forward, the cables will have slack and the rudder will continue to move a little, even with the gust lock installed. Yes, I found this out the hard way.
When not in use the locks go in the co-pilot seat back. Weighs less than a pound.
None of this is rocket science or Mikey Patey quality. But it'll do for now.



6/15/2022.  Issue #5,591
   Contract pilot resume  

My RV-10's First Flight ...Kyle Boatright

Made the first flight of the RV-10 this evening in boiling summer heat. The highest CHT got up to 437 on initial climb, but after I accelerated to 130 knots, it came down below 400. All 6 cylinders stayed there for the remainder of the flight, with #'s 4 and 6 being ~395 and the others up to 40F less. Oil temperatures, oil pressures, etc. were all happy.

The airplane flew straight and true with no aerodynamic squawks at all. One thing I was happy about (given that it was over 90F at the time of the flight), was the performance of the vents in the overhead console. They really blow a lot of fresh air, which was very welcome. Despite not having flown a "trike" more than about 3 hours in the last 20 years and only having 4-5 hours of fuel injected or constant speed time <ever>, I didn't manage to mismanage either system, so that was a good thing. The landing came off well, with the nosewheel right on the centerline with touchdown pretty much where I'd planned.

I'd expected to do the first flight yesterday, but found that the starter ring gear was rubbing on an inside corner of the upper air inlet/ramp, so I cut the offending material off and glassed in a recess before work this morning. It was hot enough here that the epoxy had hardened by lunchtime when I re-cowled the airplane.

It has been a couple of years since I flew a -10, and I remembered it being heavy on the controls compared to the -6. Yep, mine's heavy on the controls compared to the -6 too. Different missions, but wow, the 2 seater requires a lot less "oomph" to make it do what you want


From This Past Weekend's 'What did you do' thread ...Chris Pratt -8

I always love to take people for their first RV ride, and it's even better when it's their first ride in a light aircraft.

I had the pleasure of introducing Thomas (pics below) for his first flight in a light aircraft. He's 18 years old and trying to figure out what to do for a career. So, Thomas - "here's your sign."  -->


RV-6 Hangar Spot at my Home Field

Greg Blilly has room for a single RV-6 in his hangar at 52F in N.TX (hangar location HERE).  This is in hangar #1 on the east side of runway (midfield).  Water, electricity and air.  $375/mo. 
(817) 798.9627 if interested. 


Standing on the shoulders of others

Boundary Conditions:
Electrically dependent aircraft
EFII (came with Titan Engine)
Monkworkz Back-up gen

This is my proposed single-line functional diagram; no connection points, wire sizes, etc. Only power distribution architecture.

I've bugged a lot of people and I appreciate all of their help. If anyone sees any discrepancies, let me know. I was always a believer but now I've been fully baptized in the Froehlich church of redundancy and symmetry. This is 99.99x% his knowledge and experience. I've stated before, this or similar architecture is appropriate to more aircraft than is initially obvious; even legacy Fuel and Ign aircraft. I believe the redundancy pay for itself in relatively short order by not purchasing dedicated expensive device back-up batteries. Anyway, have at it. Constructive advice would be appreciated.


Butt Gets Upgrade

Coming up on twenty years now of enjoyment with our family RV-6.  The next steps of slowly loving up the inside continue.  Classic Aero Designs 'Aviators' in dark grey should hold our sweet patooties in good steed for the next twenty.  Drooling over these for years and looking forward to the 10 hours roundtrip to OSH as a test.

Arrived yesterday, and they are everything I was hoping they'd be.  Full size pic HERE.

I went with 'Horizontal Strip' layout.....and had to look up the spelling of patootie.


Boone Iowa RV Day (KBNW)

Planning to go again this year. Hopefully the forecast holds, but might be a warm one.



6/14/2022.  Issue #5,590
  A really nice sprinkling of technical and motivation in today's edition.  When they come together like this I really smile - thanks again to all who make this place work.
   Contract pilot resume  

From the 'My RV Weekend' Thread ...N546RV milestone

My fuselage finally grew legs and got rolled out into the fresh air for all the airport neighbors to appreciate.


Kettle Moraine Youth Aviation build program

KMYA, Inc, a non-profit we formed two years ago just completed our first RV12 with local HS students! FAA issue our Airworthiness Certificate last week. We're getting huge local support and are expanding to a second HS this fall. We have 12 mentors and have thoroughly enjoyed the process. We have two students enrolled at Emory-Riddle AZ just in this last two years. If anyone is interested in how we got things going here in Hartford WI, I'd be happy to discuss.

For those programs already having completed projects, is it true we can get a 10% rebate on the cost of the kit once the plane is completed? We've ordered the second plane already. Who should I speak to at Van's


Breather Pipe Options ...one PIREP

Try premolded silicone 90* hose. Or, we did this for a client. Convoluted teflon, impervious to oil, and has pretty good flexibility. He wanted just enough to connect to his aluminum tube. 3/4 ID, so he had to expand the aluminum tube on the hose end to fit tight, then clamp. Think he wrapped it with firesleeve tape, ot maybe took a piece of 3/4 OD, .049 wall aluminum tube and forced it over the breather tube to "enlarge" the end to fit the hose.

Bullet proof, and oil doesnt affect it.


Torque Bulkhead Bar Assy bolts

My technical counsellor recommended that I should torque all bolts at the end of the build given that there is a "shelf life" of the calibration of the wrenches. This made sense since one needs to be able to retorque the bolts later.

Now I have had my wrenches calibrated even if not done, but some of the bolts are already hard to reach.

Specifically the outer bolts on F-01405B Bulkhead Bar Assembly (first appearing on page 25-02) is hard to reach after the baggage floor is installed.

Has anyone figured out a way to reach the nut on the backside of the bulkhead?


Navy76's DIY Tow Bar

If you can weld you might consider building your own. I think the materials cost me about $30-$40. I put it together in an afternoon. It's not super heavy duty but so far it works fine.


Nose wheel fairing induced yaw?

Just started flying my new RV-10 and had a very disconcerting experience today. First flight was excellent and as I was in engine break in and first flight mode Iflew it without the wheel pants. Everything was good with the ball perfectly centred throughout the flight. Today, after installing the wheel pants, I went up again. Everything was good on climbout and it accelerated nicely almost 15 knots faster than without the pants. I was happy because the ball stayed nicely centred and all seemed well.
About 20 minutes into the flight I hit a bit of turbulence and then after a bit of bouncing and yawing I found I needed a fair bit of left rudder to keep the ball centred. Feet off the pedals the ball was now about halfway out of centre. Throughout the rest of the flight with all power settings and airspeeds I needed left rudder to keep the ball centred.
I figured I had either lost a wheel pant or the nosewheel had somehow cocked itself off centre and induced some yaw on the airplane. After I landed all fairings were present and accounted for and if the nose had cocked off centre it would have straightened itself on landing so there was no way to know there.
Has anyone experienced this? How do you correct it? More tension on the big nut or less? How do you fix it in the air? I'm assuming some aggressive rudder to straighten the fairing out.
Or is it something other than that?


scsmith's Method for Attaching Flap Pushrod to Flap

While you have the flap pushrods off, whether they are bent or not, make new ones from 4130 steel tubing. Buy 5/16" tubing and run a 1/4-28 tap into the ends. The aluminum pushrods are the weakest link in the flap system by far.

But also while the flap pushrods are out, check to make sure that the threaded stud for the rod end that is affixed to the flap root rib is tight. It is really hard to get at the nut for that thing. (I made a special wrench just for that). Again, ideally, replace those rod ends with proper rod-end bearings with an AN bolt and an AN970 washer to keep the rod end captive. You will need a couple of washers or a spacer to position the rod-end bearing out from the root rib of the flap the right distance, matching the height of the stud assembly that was removed.

Next on the list is to check to see if the flap is twisted. Since it is driven by the root end, there is a lot of torsional load through the flap, and that load increases as velocity squared. If it was twisted, it might be evident from diagonal skin wrinkles on either the upper or lower flap skin, or both.

Next after that are the piano hinge eyelets, near the ends of the flap. Look for any elongation of the holes, or distorted loops of the hinge.


CHT adapter

I have a XP360 engine that startedits life as a Mattituck assembled engine with an Aerosance Fadec.

To make a long story short, I decided to convert this engine to a conventional Mags/Carb system, so I removed and sold all the FADEC items and installed 2 slick mags and a MA-4-5 Carb.

Now,while I was installing the Garmin engine sensors package, I noticed that the there seems to be an adapter attached to the CHT probe location (see attached pictures).

Looking at my FADEC pictures, I have noticed that the CHT probe that came with the system had a bayonet turn and lock type attachment and it was not threaded directly to the engine.

I imagine that this adapter is just something threaded to the cylinder head, but I'd like to confirm if someone has ever seen this type of adapter attached to the head and if there is any special procedure to remove it.


Rudder counterbalance torqueing

I was a bit overzealous torqueing the rudder counterbalance screws, which caused nutplate strip to bend a bit. The torque value was relatively low, less than 20-25 lbf*in that should be used for #10 bolts (I assume screw of the same size should be similar to the bolt?).

As I understand, the counterbalance has two counterbores due to the old method of attachment which used nuts.

What do you think? While everything is still open, I can take the nutplate strip out, straighten it and put some aluminum bushings under it. Or I can just keep it like that. The counterbalance is also attached with some amount of T-88 epoxy under it, so I don't think it should ever move.


Sulfur Creek, ID ...Mconner7 pic

FD74, gravel strip in Idaho. They serve breakfast, the menu said, Breakfast, yes $25, no $10.



6/13/2022.  Issue #5,589.
  Spent the weekend at the part time sim side gig being shaken and stirred for the 306th time - 10 days in a row here when this round ends.  Scratchin' out a livin'. ;^)   I occasionally wonder if the RV even remembers me.  Someday I'm going to need to go missed in it and I'll probably end up blurting out the single engine go around Phenom call outs. ;^)
  Hope you had a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  

What did you do with your RV this weekend? (6/11-12/2022)


2000 hours ...Roy Thoma

N174RT crossed 2000 Hobbs hours on Sunday. 11 years and a handful of days after her first flight.

A few highlights from the 11 years:

GREAT FRIENDS that are like family that we have made through the RV community.

Flying across the country ON OUR SCHEDULE from Hillsboro, OR to Dover DE to see 1st grandchild when she was 5 days old. From coast to coast in 1.5 days.

Flying to Homestead FL, joining 8 other planes (7 RVs) and flying to St Kitts, Grenada, and St. Croix with Rosie's group in 2017.

Enabling commuting between Hillsboro OR and S.V. Tranquility on Orcas Island, WA, 2 hours door to boat instead of 8+ hours by car and ferry.

Multiple trips to Oshkosh.

Five trips to the Pettit Jean fly in, each time recognized as flying the farthest distance.


First Flights Reported on the Mothership


Fuselage boo boo advice ...didja

I just realized that I accidentally riveted one too many rivets in the tailcone bottom to side skin holes . I have joined the fuse and tailcone. I went to rivet the fuse bottom skin to the tailcone/side skin corner hole and realized it was already riveted between the tailcone bottom skin and tailcone side skin. I have no way of undoing the existing rivet withou completely drilling out every rivet to separate the fuse from the tailcone.

The alternative that I can think of is to drill through the existing rivet and rivet all three skins. The fuse bottom skin is dimpled as it was supposed to be flush mounted. Not sure if I should flatten the dimpled hole and rivet with a 4-4 rivet instead of a 3-3.5 rivet, or try a pop rivet...

Looking for advice.


FIFI's PIC Owns/Flies an RV-8 (and one of the SIC's flies an RV-6 (Matt))

Came across this video over the weekend.  That's Bill Goeken as PIC in a reposition flight in FIFI not too long ago.  If you have 40 minutes or so to kill and want to ride along with all the B-29 callouts in real time, you're going to enjoy this video.

Bill got me checked out in the Caravan C208 I flew a few years back (and later the PC-12).  He's had an RV as long as I've known him. 

He's a good guy and I'm certain he would roll his eyes if he finds out I put this video here.



New RV12 Jackpoint

Finally came up with Jackpoints for the RV12. Available soon.  Check with Flyboy Accessories


Dimple without a hole...

Hi, all.

I'm a couple of months into my RV-14A empennage build and am working on the rudder. I was dimpling one of the skins today with my DRDT-2 and while I was moving between holes in the trailing edge the handle came down on it's own and made an indentation on the skin. I didn't touch the handle or put any pressure on it, so the dent was just from the handle closing on it's own.

Pics attached. Again, this is in the trailing edge. I've sent pics to Van's builder support but figured I'd also ask the hive mind (and share Van's answer when I get it). Build on? The dimple is smooth and even and there was no skin penetration. It doesn't look like there are any hard creases in the dimple. Since this is in the trailing edge and will be backed by the extrusion and I don't think this part of the skin is going to see significant stresses, I figure I'm OK to continue.

I was considering trying to flatten the skin back out- gently. Either by very gently applying the dimple dies partially in the opposite direction, or by using a flat set of padded duckbill pliers as a sort of seamer to flatten it. Or both...


My first RV-8 flight video ...goatflieg

I posted the first (public) RV-8 flying video


Compression Ratio

Had an issue come up during engine runup that is going to cause me to have to replace a cylinder. I have an experimental version of a 0-320 E2D wide deck with 9.2 C/R. Due to prior history I am considering a top overhaul on the other 3 and while I am at it I may consider changing the compression ratio back to a more stock 8.5. The engine data plate shows 9.2 so would I need to change this? Would it be considered a major change or alteration? If anyone has been through this tell me what you think.

So here is the back story; I purchased the plane from from the builder who had an experimental 320 E2D built from parts (And with a Data Plate) by a reputable shop (Whose name I won't mention). At around a hundred hours an intake valve stuck open which bent the pushrod and resulted in a landing at the nearest airport. Cylinder assembly replaced and then at the next condition inspection low compression on another cylinder caused by the ring gaps being all lined up. That cylinder was replaced. I bought the plane about 200 hours later and figured the engine issues were behind me. Compressions were excellent, oil usage was 1 qt per 25 hours and the oil analysis and filter inspection were well within limits at every change. At 385 hours an intake valve on another cylinder broke near the top of the stem and decided to exit the engine by busting a hole in the top of the cylinder.

The paperwork shows all new Lycoming valves were used and I have stacks of yellow tags for all the parts that were not new. I am at a loss to understand how a clean well built engine can have these issues. I spoke with the shop in Alamosa Co and they said they have never heard of a stuck intake valve (Plenty of exhaust valves of course). So my options are replace the cylinder assembly with the big viewing port in the top, or top all 4 cylinders to make sure I have fresh quality stuff, or lastly, the local engine shop can do an IRAN for 6250. plus parts. In the interest of protecting my sanity I may just have the shop tear the whole thing down so I can be assured it is all within spec and serviceable. I am not blaming my issues on the C/R but I am contemplating returning to stock to see if this might help.
Sorry for the long winded post. Not doing any of this to be a Karen or throw a shop under the bus. If anyone else has had problems with a low time engine you are not alone.

This is the exterior obviously. The borescope pics are the usual hammered piston and cylinder stuff. I am grateful this happened on the ground and that it went out of the top of the cylinder and not through the top of the piston where it would have done more damage.
Kinda new to piston engine aircraft ownership. I've had gliders for the past 20 years and only about 2300 hours of piston time and except for a stuck exaust valve on an 0-360 power Scout I've never had any issues. I figured I would buy a plane with a well documented engine and stay within Lycoming limitations and careful maintenance I would be OK. So far during disassembly there is nothing to indicate any corners were cut.



6/10/2022.  Issue #5,588.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  

Sophia after a ride in the family
RV-6 last Saturday.  Infectious smile!  dr


UV Dye for Tank Testing ...Freemasm

...I tested with ethanol free car gas and UV dye; before and after tank back plate installation. This approach isn't for everybody. It only proves that on those days, there's no leaks.


Attaching HS0006 to Spar ...-7

This HS is going to be the death of me.

I'm trying to figure out how to attach forward rib HS0006 to the forward spar for an RV7A. I notched the ribs per the plans and marked a centerline on the aft flange. But the directions tell me to look at drawing D-D and figure out where to mark the holes to attach to the spar. This makes no sense to me because how do you know where the rib should be positioned to properly lay out the holes? I've been researching it and it seems that others have clecoed on the skin, put the rib in place and then marked the holes.

Am I missing something? Any advice is very much appreciated!!!

Section D-D shows you the vertical spacing of the rivet holes. For horizontal positioning, I clecoed the skin onto the substructure and clamped HS-00006 in place on the skin for drilling.


TS Flightlines Site Update ...Tom

I just wanted to let everyone know that Steve has worked VERY hard on upgrading our webstite, aircraftspecialtyflightlines.com. Its a combination of my old site, tsflightlines, and his old site aircraft specialty. It was a convienent place for us to use since I didnt know anything about my site anyway, other than pics. Suzanne built mine--well you know the story.

If you go to tsflightlines.com, or asflightlines.com, it will redirect you to our combined site. LOTS of new data, and improved (and hopefully easy) ordering. Our current install guides are also on the pages. For those of you that know what hose you want, I wanted to make you aware of an easy self ordering feature that I'm told is great. If you know what you want, go HERE, and use the drop down boxes to pic and choose. Yes a variety of hose styles, from plain braid, normal firesleeve, and our integral firesleeve for most sizes.
WE also have the some AN adapters on the site, as well as some CNC machined parts like our flow transducer bracket kits. Yes, we are adding to it all the time.

Steve and I are still available via email and phone to help, but sometimes little things get in the way (hospital stays ) and we dont want to hold you up. So if you havent seen the new and improved Aircraft Specialty Flightlines site, take a few minutes and have a look. It also has a 'how we do it" section on hose, and rigid tube fabrication, and panel fabrication, just to name a few.


Tom and Steve
Tom Swearengen, TS Flightlines LLC, AS Flightlines


Q on Remote Digital Magnetometer Install ...Scott Hersah

I have a question about what GRT told you about mounting the magnetometer "flat on its bottom". What side is the bottom? This is what the install manual says:

4.2 Remote Digital Magnetometer Installation
The remote magnetometer must be placed in an area of the airplane with little or no electromagnetic interference. The cable is 20' long and designed to reach out to the wingtip, which is the ideal location for most airplanes. The magnetometer is marked with an arrow pointing in the direction of flight. Mount it with the arrow pointing forward, parallel to the centerline of the airplane. There is not a designated "top" of the magnetometer, so it can be turned on its side for easier mounting. The side of a wing tip rib is a simple place to put it. The arrow on the magnetometer should be parallel with the centerline of the airplane for yaw. Pitch attitude is not critical as long as it is within 60* nose up or nose down.

The drawing right below the above description looks like it is mounted flat on the outboard wingtip rib. That's how I mounted mine on my RV6 (see below). I haven't finished building yet, so I don't know how it will work. I'm wondering if I need to re-orient mine.


How to test DSUB connectors and harnesses

I'd like to test some DSUB connectors and harnesses that are installed in the aircraft, for correct polarity and continuity, before plugging into the expensive EFIS and EMS boxes. This is for a Dynon system with DB37, DB25 and DB9 connectors. The radio will use DB15 connectors. It's fiddly to use a multimeter probe on the Dsub pins, so I'm thinking there must be a better way to get access e.g. by using a breakout plug or board. Before buying some bare plugs and warming the soldering iron I'd like to know what other builders might have done?

Breakout Boards
Another trick is use a commercial D sub breakout board. The screw terminals are easy to probe and identify. They are fairly available. If you need to get to a hard to get to connector you can use a commercial cable between the connector and the breakout board.


Over voltage

I purchased an already built rv-4. I had some electronic noise issues and replaced the alternator when it tested bad.

After start when I engage the alternator switch the voltage reads just about what it should. A little over 14v at 1000 rpm.

However at higher or cruise setting the voltage seems to fluctuate and at times bumps up to a little over 15 volts.

It's an external regulator (C-8010-1) and not a very complex circuit. Would the fluctuating voltage that runs high typically be the regulator going bad? Seems like that would be the most likely culprit but I thought I would ask as it's not in a very convenient place for removal



6/9/2022.  Issue #5,587.
   Contract pilot resume  

Freemasm's DIY Shop Gear ...creative!


Almost Lost an Eye PIREP ...rv8bldr

I almost lost an eye to the tail mounted antennas on my Maule. During my annual I walked around the rudder and bent down all in one motion to get at the inspection cover and the antenna hit me in the upper left part of my mouth, ran up my cheek, and into the bottom of my left eye socket. Thankfully, on the way up it gathered some extra skin so no sharp edges.

No eye damage or scars, but the area from my tooth up towards my eye is numb, just like when you go to the dentist. And this happened 2.5 years ago.

I now put a fluorescent tennis ball on each antenna when I land. And my new project has the VOR antenna mounted under the tail

[ed. Mark, rolling around on the crawler wiping off the underside of my -6 years ago I poked myself in the head with the VOR antennae.  It really drove the point home how easy complacency in the shop can lead to injury.  I like your tennis ball routine. v/r,dr]


Courtesy Cars & Food List Updated

...couple of additions in TN and one in KY.


Taxi Tests ...Joe Dallas -12

N7944A Phase One.  N7944A just passed the DAR inspection and is now starting phase one flight testing.

We started our phase one testing yesterday All went well


"Interesting" afternoon at the airport

This is an RV story because I was in the RV-9A, and it ends with an RV-12.


A bit of background to explain the next confusion. Hunter Army Air Field. KSVN, is about seven miles away. It shows up in the FAA databases, hence on everybody's navigation systems, as "Savannah." KSAV, the big airport in Savannah, is named "Savannah/Hilton Head International." It shows up in the Leidos briefing system as "Hilton Head." Go figure. There is also a different Hilton Head airport at the north end of Hilton Head Island, KXHD.


Then comes an unusual call from the tower. "RV, where are you?" Oh, boy. "I'm in position to turn left base for Rwy 10, if it was open." (Gear up Bonanza on the runway). I volunteer to do a left 270 for right downwind for Rwy 19, but they have me turn right, directly onto right base for Rwy 19.


I'm on a half mile final when all of a sudden, out of nowhere, there's a Southwest B737 on frequency, going 150 knots on a three mile final behind me. I ask tower if the long landing is still approved. No answer.


An interesting day at the airport, lots of lessons to be learned by lots of people, and not just pilots. I've filed my third ASRS report about airport name confusion - filed one on the same topic last week - and maybe this one will help.


We did have one new arrival who is building an RV-12.


Mobility Ideas w/the Gear Legs On ...kiwipete PIREP

I used these. Designed for moving cars around. They moved out over the cobbles fine.


kentlik -7A Rebirthing Update

So I have been getting some stuff done on the plane. Not a lot of explanation just some photos.



6/8/2022.  Issue #5,586.
   Contract pilot resume  

Waiting for DAR in am

...video tour of things in order.


GRT Inter-Display Link

Is the magnetometer data shared across the GRT inter-display link?

A: Yes

A: Not sure about the inter-display link. This is how my magnetometer is wired. Haven't flown yet but it works taxiing around.


You'll poke your eye out kid - Taildragger

To avoid the risk of eye meets antenna (ILS/VOR/GS), I'm thinking of under the tail.

Advice, warnings, experiences, etc.. appreciated. Pics would be great and you won't need a thousand words.

(one interesting reply)
I put a R/C wheel collar on the end of each of my antennas to reduce the hazard somewhat. They are available in a variety of sizes and do not seem to affect radio operation


From the Weekend Thread ...Al Karpinski

A Little Pre-Summer Polish & Paint Touch-Up.


Raabs' RV-10 Flap Motor Retrofit Pics

Remove rivets that hold the old bracket, drill four new holes each side of tunnel, rivet in new bracket in new location, install motor. Of course, a bit of prepping and priming... Took about 3.5 hours on a not yet flying -10 that was already accessible. As previously mentioned, no big reason to change an already flying -10.



6/7/2022.  Issue #5,585.
  Excuse the early push - supplemental sim gig D slot.  RV stares longingly at me from across the city...;^).
   Contract pilot resume  

More From This Week's 'My RV Weekend' Thread


Rtlongdon's RV-12 Pedal Extensions

My wife is about 5'2" and can't reach the stock rudder/brakes.

These are 3D printed. Sorry the pics aren't great, they were for my own use when we first installed them.

Also there are two different versions in the pics posted. The one on the right pedal has a screw on clamp that was a PITA to put in place. The left one is what we use now. It has a velcro strap that holds rock solid. The other has since been converted. They fit over the existing plastic pad on the rudder portion and extend both the brake and rudder pedal surfaces proportionally.

I have plans to make a couple other simple mods to make them even quicker to remove/replace, but it hasn't been an issue. They work great and the wife is happy. Total weight for the set is about 12 ounces.


How to test DSUB connectors and harnesses

I'd like to test some DSUB connectors and harnesses that are installed in the aircraft, for correct polarity and continuity, before plugging into the expensive EFIS and EMS boxes. This is for a Dynon system with DB37, DB25 and DB9 connectors. The radio will use DB15 connectors. It's fiddly to use a multimeter probe on the Dsub pins, so I'm thinking there must be a better way to get access e.g. by using a breakout plug or board. Before buying some bare plugs and warming the soldering iron I'd like to know what other builders might have done?


Throttle cable throw help

im changing to MA-4SPA as I have mentioned in other threads,
I have an A-1550-0430 Throttle cable from aircraft spruce, it is push-pull bulkhead type cable at both ends with 3.37" stroke which worked for the previous carb geometry that I had (not same carb) and works fine firewall aft. Now with MA-4SPA with vans VA-149-320 bracket, and it seems like it has too much throw / is too long past the bulkhead nuts? it is impossible to thread on a rod end bearing and attach to the throttle arm with hardware at fully retracted (idle)it is at least 1" too long to attach to the carb.

what is the right throttle cable lengths what should I be looking to order. or maybe put another way what cable would work with the VA-149-320 bracket mounting and MA-4SPA. I'm not sure where to start with this.


G3 sensor for Showplanes fastback

Need direction for what type of sensor for a Showplanes fastback for the Garmin G3 "unlocked" option.
Found a thread for a magnetic sensor for the RV 10 doors.
Any thoughts or has someone set up the Showplanes fastback with the G3 unlocked option.

I used a simple micro switch. Added flox to the latch rod to extend enough to contact the plunger. Works well.


Hank Moody,

...repeat offender who first built an RV-8, received his Airworthiness Certificate from DAR Vern Darley for his new RV-14A


rv8ch's Wire Coloring

I bought a lot of different colored wire in different sizes, but the number of combinations grows quickly.

In the end, I used labels at each end of mainly white wire. In my small aircraft, I have not needed to "trace" a wire or find a particular wire inside a bundle - I always start from one end or the other, which is labeled.

I don't have one, but this looks like an interesting tool:

You could make up your own color codes for whatever wire you run, and probably do a lot in place.



6/6/2022.  Issue #5,584.
   Contract pilot resume  

Local Kid Steals Dad's RV!

Here's a local kid who grew up around his dad's RV-7 and now is flying it solo.

Tyler Savrda just turned 17 in December and since then has acquired his PPL and his rotorcraft helicopter license. He's scheduled for his instrument check ride in a couple of weeks. In September he enters Jacksonville University's aviation program. Pretty amazing kid. While I credit his parents for most of his success, you can't discount the influence the RV has had in his development. He literally grew up while his dad, Tom, was building the -7, made numerous trips to fly-ins, including Oshkosh where his dad won the Lindy for the RV-7. You would often see him hanging out with his dad around the hangars here in Vero. On Sundays, we would have our regular breakfast flights and he was often in the right seat of dad's airplane. He flew with me countless times on the way home because he wanted to do aerobatics and his dad wasn't into that. I was impressed with his natural flying ability, and it wasn't long before I had him landing the airplane. He definitely caught the RV bug. For sure!

Tom and Tyler are currently building a -9 so that Tyler will have something to build time in. And so Tom can get his -7 back!

So this story may be about Tyler but it's also about how this wonderful airplane has molded a kid's life!


My RV Weekend ...folks chiming in.

RV-10 First Flight Sydney Australia


A good demonstration of the fabulous utility of our airplanes ...from last weekend's thread (airguy)

I left my home strip 73XS yesterday morning and flew up to KPSO Pagosa Springs Colorado for lunch, and pick up a family friend and bring her back down to KSJT San Angelo Texas for a baby shower, then I flew back home from San Angelo, in a total of 7.3 hours flight time burning 49 gallons of 93E10. My flight up to Pagosa Springs was IFR (for departure conditions) at 12,000 and the return was VFR initially at 17,500 for smooth air, later dropping to 15,500 once we got out of the mountains and mechanical turbulence was no longer a factor. It turned an 11-hour drive for her in to 3:25 by air and made the trip reasonable to come down and see family/friends for the weekend.

With my long-range tanks, I left home with full fuel (67 gallons), flew up to Pagosa Springs, then down to San Angelo, and back home again and landed with 2 hours fuel still in the tanks.

Saw some really beautiful scenery, and got a nice shot of Ruidoso NM rising up through an overcast.


Garmin G3x Touch panel - RV8 Options?

Looks like my AFS 4500 AHRS is toast, though it might be a simple magnetometer change. Either way, I've now decided to do a new panel in my RV8 come fall.

I'm going to go with a Garmin G3x Touch, and was wondering about options. I'm very behind the curve on all the glass gadgetry. I took 22 years off of aviation, and just came back last year, so all this new stuff is sorcery to me.

I see that I can use a 10" or 7" screen, and it looks like everything is basically a remotely mounted "module".

So I could remotely mount the radio and transponder, and eliminate them from the panel, right? They both could be controlled from the G3 screen? Any reason not to?

Will I need to keep my PS1000 Intercom?

For a GPS, I was thinking to mount an Aera 760 Touch vertically on the left. I'm open to suggestions here.

I've got a brand new Sandia 340 backup instrument I could mount right of the G3.

I'd like to get XM radio, and ADSB in/out.

I'm currently working on my IFR rating, though I don't foresee myself doing any flying in the soup in my 8 at this time. If that changes, what would I need to add to make this panel IFR certified?

Anything I'm missing here, or should add? Attached is a rough sketch of what I'm thinking, using an online panel designer.


Check your Brake torque plates! Are yours installed Backwards?

Keep seeing this error so thought I would let folks know that the Van's drawings don't do a very good job at showing this installation but it's pretty important.

If you take off the wheel and see this your brake torque plate is installed backwards...


Color coding wires: when to stop?

I'm redoing some wiring and where it's possible I'm taking the opportunity to change from white to colored wire (red/black, blue for audio, yellow for signal, etc). Some things are simple, I'm adding red or black heat shrink to the battery wires, but after that, the question is, where do you stop?

For instance, I've got 4 switches on my left panel, 3 of which have circuit breakers. So I have wires going from the power buss into CBs, from the CBs to the switch, then from the switch to the device (generator, alternator, main fuel pump), if I changed them from white -> red, instead of a mass of white wires I'd have a mass of red wires. Plus wires going from the starter switch underneath to a terminal strip, which then distributes to various other functions.

If I understand it right, until the power is used a wire is technically "hot", and should/could be coded red, then on the return from the device it would be black for ground.

Not sure if changing everything in this area from white to red is an improvement or not, or is there a point you would draw the line, like only red wires into the CBs, then white from there.




6/3/2022.  Issue #5,583.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  

Wax:  Like Finding 17 Additional HP ...DanH

Here in the south we have pollen season every spring. Every surface, including inside a hangar, tends to collect a layer of green dust. It's long been my habit, correct or not, to quit cleaning the airplane sometime after the first of the year, then give it a serious cleaning before S&F, or even into May if I'm not going to Florida. I rarely waxed.

A few weekends back I bit the bullet and got to work. First a soapy wash, a good surface scrub with rag, not a brush. Then I got out the big Milwaukee buffer and worked all the wing sections exhibiting surface buildup...you know, they faintly raspy feel from oxidation and microscopic trash adhered to the paint. Last, I waxed all the upper surfaces and sides of the wings and fuselage, plus the prop, the spinner, tail surfaces, and the landing gear legs and pants.

Tuesday I made a run up to Hensley to wrap up the beta installation of a firewall and tunnel insulation package for the RV-14, the first opportunity to check cruise speed with the fresh cleanup. Typical speed is 183~184 KTAS on a little over 9 gph at 9500. The dirty airplane (both bugs and dust) was down to 181~182. With a fresh polish and wax, it was doing 186~188.

I noticed the effect previously, but never quantified it. Frankly I was surprised...and very pleased. Not a hard core back-to-back test, but in rough numbers, it's like finding 17 additional horsepower.

Expect old 5551 to have a bit more shine in the future.


Avionics mounting behind F14106 Wiring Channel

Just curious on whether anyone has considered mounting any avionics on either the top of the F10405 Forward Tunnel Cover, or mounted to the forward side of the F14106 vertical wiring channel? I was thinking this could be a good location for the GAD27, and some relays (pitot relay, lights relay etc)

I was planning ahead and will likely have my circuit breakers and bus bars (power sources) on the angled 'power module' panel. Having the GAD27 and the relays close to the power source would mean not having to run 18AWG wires up to the panel switches etc - i can just run small 22 AWG for grounding (and i have a much wider choice of switches).


Dynon servo install

The installation of the servo motor into the bell crank seems pretty straightforward. The wiring is what gets me. I've looked over some of the Dynon docs and don't have real clarity on what types of wires to run.

I know this has been done before in a RV-7. Can anyone assist with pics or info?

What I do it this. I use the twisted Green, Blue, White/Green, and White/Blue wires from the the SkyView Network cable. Then I get a 22 gage Yellow wire for the disengage switch, and 20 gage Red and Black wire. Page 10-10 of the SkyView Revision AJ install manual. This way it matches all the Dynon install wiring colors.


Substituting a Digital Level with an Old Carpenter's Protractor

Working on the RV14A fuselage. Page 29-06 calls for using a digital level to put a 10 DEG twist in the upper longeron.

Well, I don't have a digital level. So how do I measure this? Let's see, what do I have that will give me a measurement? I do have a bubble level. I also have a very old carpenter's protractor that works very well. I also just so happened to have a metal shelf just laying around that happens to be perfectly square. I have tables that are perfectly level. Putting all of those tools together and securing with some clamps I came up with a system that looks like this:


Evercoat Rage vs JP202 ...DanH PIREP

Totally different products and purposes.

Rage is a very popular polyester based body filler for used cars. It is wiped on as a thixotropic solid, most commonly to fill a dent.

PPG JP202 is a urethane high build primer-surfacer. It's sprayed on and block sanded back off as the last step before paint, for optical surface flatness.

I use Rage in some applications, but not on my airplane fiberglass or aluminum. Cheap, fast, good, pick any two. Epoxy/micro has better adhesion, but it's not fast.

K36 also being a primer-surfacer, basically an upline choice from PPG.

Here's one set of samples from an old peel test in my shop, Evercoat Rage Gold vs West 105 and microballoons on identically prepared aluminum coupons. The Rage always failed with less force, and when it did, it was usually a clean peel from the surface. Epoxy micro required more force, and typically exhibited a cohesive failure rather than adhesive.

As noted previously, Rage has its uses. I like it for leveling low spots in ply surfaces on wood wings, for example. There are better choices for aluminum, and for glass, epoxy on epoxy is always safe.

Generally, urethane primer surfacers are pretty good, and I like PPG products. Shopline is a lower end PPG product, I suspect better than most budget brands.


Seen by Vlad in his -9A

...in Colorado.



6/2/2022.  Issue #5,582.
Part time contract SIC in both and .  Click on the guitar pic for more info --->

Seen at the local theater

(about the charity cap)


Photos, Phinally ...JDeanda's Retracting Tie Down Rings

So here's how I did it. I scored a piece of .125" 7075-T6 at the local metal supply for the pivoting ring thingy. I'm sure 2024-T3 would be fine. The rest is simple sheet metal work and mostly AN hardware. There's a 5/16" OD bushing on the pivot that the bolt tightens down on. I made up a couple of nylon washers to take the side loads. The spring is inelegant and I'd envisioned bending up a clock-type spring to install coaxial with the pivot, but I ran out of time. One of these days I'll fix that. My CFI wife says it's her favorite thing about the airplane. BTW, I spent a fair bit of time pondering this and came up with a number of bad ideas. This was finally was inspired by the tiedowns at the upper end of some of the Cessna struts, and locating them on the wingtips copies the Grumman single engine airplanes. They clear the pitot and they're easier to reach. I just left the existing holes in the bottom of the wing as they are. This airplane is hangared so we don't have problems with mud daubers, but if I go out of town of course I tape the holes. If I ever do another set, I'll at least move the bolts a bit further apart so I wouldn't need to trim those AN960 large area washers. If ya'll have other ideas or refinements, I'd love to hear about them. Thanks for the interest!


RV3B heavy roll forces

I have an issue with heavy aileron roll forces in my RV3B has anyone fixed this issue easily before ?
Any simple ideas to make the aileron slightly convex without damaging paint ? Both ailerons are currently perfectly flat top and bottom.


Hartford Union High School students building an airplane


Mounting to radio trays?

Planning the avionics harness and would like to mount the GAD29 to the top of my radios (specifically the GNX 375 tray). Is there a good way to do this that won't interfere with the GNX ?


Need some help in diagnosing an odd noise in flight

I have an RV8 with about 400 hours on it. I am not the builder, but have put approximately 25 hours on it in the last few months.

I have an IO-360 and Whirlwind RV200 prop that I had rebuilt by whirlwind when I first bought the aircraft.

On a flight last week, we had just done a touch and go and were climbing back into the downwind. Just at the top of the climb at 24"/2500, the pilot-passenger and I noticed a sound that I can only describe as having a turboprop flying somewhere close in our vicinity. I felt it was coming from up front by the prop, the passenger who is also a pilot felt is was coming from below us. The sound remained with MP and RPM changes, and did not change much in pitch or volume. By the time we returned to our home airport 15 miles away, it was gone. It was not loud, or scary, and I couldn't perceive any associated vibration. Only the sound.

On the ground we theorized that it could be a panel vibrating that I recently attached a cupholder to.

Yesterday, we went up again to test, and through all different power and climb/cruise configurations, we could not get it to come back. When returning to the airport, we initiated a decent of about 1500 fpm at around 15"/2400 rpm and the sound came back. I added MP and began to climb so we could spend some time diagnosing, and it immediately went away. We could not get it to come back.

My passenger was quick enough to push on the panel the cupholder was on, and verified that it was not the problem.

I never heard this in the previous 22 hours I put on the aircraft.

I have checked the following between the first flight and yesterday:

-I checked the entire exhaust system
-Looked at everything with the cowling off
-Spinner is tight, true, no rubbing
-Prop blades are tight, clean, and tapping the entire length, both blades sound the same
-Wheel pants are tight
-We did not notice any flutter or vibration through any controls
-Wing root rubber strip is secure
-All panels and fairings are tight and secure

Any thoughts on how I can diagnose this? It might be nothing, it might be something. Intermittent problems are the worst!


Wedge's New RV-8 Fastback Panel


Throttle quadrant/cable mounting issues

Hello all,
Replacing the push-pull vernier cables on the 6A with a quadrant (per the lady's request) and I am running into a little issue with the clevis arms "bottoming out" on the control arms. Because of this the angle at which I can achieve full throw both directions without running out of clevis groove throw would require the cables to be mounting "arching upward" at a significant degree which is going to interfere with mounting. Wondering if anyone has run into this before and if there is some solution other than A: cutting notches out of the throttle and picture control arm to allow the clevis to travel further or B: rotating the entire quadrant until the cables travel more in line with the quadrant mount.

In regards to the bracket to mount this whole thing, I'm basically still figuring that out but if anyone has done this before on the 6 and has any tips/plans to mount it I'm all ears.


Danny Stanton RV-8

Vern Darley,DAR, presents airworthiness docs to Danny Stanton for his beautiful RV-8



6/1/2022.  Issue #5,581.
Sorry for the late push - was in the shaking box on poles side hustle. ;^)
   Need a Contract ATP-rated G-V or Phenom 300 SIC?

June Wallpaper Calendar

Courtesy Mr. Ed Hicks.


DIY Brackets ...Bill E.

I fabricated my own from ,063" stainless steel scrap I had. I have an O-320H2AD and the sump is different than others, so the store bought ones wouldn't work. Not very hard to roll your own bracket.


Conflicting Torque Values

Slightly confused here. I'm about to torque the fuel tank AN fittings. the torque chart on Van's site says 270-350in/lb for -8 fittings, AC43-13 (section 9, page 19) sites 230-260 in/lb & The Aircraft Mechanics Handbook sites 150-250 in/lb... Anyone know off hand what is correct for the fuel pick up & vent (-4) line fittings?


Richard Connell RV-10 Cockpit


Build Update: cgeyman -9A

On final assembly my front tip-up canopy lip was catching. Attempts at fixing it resulted in a thin, wavy, deformed edge- I cried a little and then trimmed it back. Then I had to add on top a thicker reinforcement aluminum strip and faired it out with lightweight epoxy. I probably went too far in gap allowed, but I am using trim rubber to compensate and give extra rain protection- I was never going to get a Lindsay award- just shooting for safe.

Should have photoed the deformed and catching front edge but I was too embarrassed and heart broken.


Help troubleshooting a new engine.

I have fired up the IO-540 on the RV-10 I am building, I am seeing some weird data, and am trying to figure out if I have a problem, or if it is likely related to being a new engine that is still breaking in.

This is a brand new Io-540 that my son and I built with assistance at AeroSport Power. Ignitions are 2X Surefly... pretty much a standard IO-540.

I have two cylinders (#3 and #5) whose EGTs are quite a bit higher than the other four. When I shut off one of the ignitions, the EGTs on those same two cylinders seem to spike higher than the other four as well.

I've checked the timing on both ignitions, and they are right on TDC for #1. I've checked the plugs on cylinders #3 and #5 and they look clean. I've pulled and cleaned the injectors on both cylinders and didn't see any sort of clogging or debris.

The engine starts easily, but seems to run a little rougher than I would expect (not data to back that up). Any suggestion I should be looking at, or is this most likely something that will smooth out once the engine is broken in?



5/31/2022.  Issue #5,580.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

Rob Reece working on
his -8 canopy on Memorial Day
at the VanCave.

Wheel pants - fiberglass repair question

I'm fixing up my wheel pants (as addressed in this thread). I have some stress cracks at the mounting screw holes, which I'm reinforcing with carbon fiber on the inside and a couple layers of fiberglass on the outside.

My question is about the rear main gear fairing on both sides. The rear-most part that fits over the gear leg fairings is cracked, apparently for years. Likely due to too tight a fit with resultant jostling and vibration. My plan is not to close the two cracks...rather to just leave the cracks as they are, being afraid that they're too tight and maybe just leave them relieved.

How should I do that? The options I've been considering include just filling the whole crack with some epoxy/flox (or some JB Weld), or sanding down the gelcoat around the crack, filling the crack, and then reinforcing with a fiberglass overlay. TIA for advice.


Elevator horn hitting Bulkhead F-112

Today I was grinding away on the up elevator stop to hopefully achieve 30* up deflection. My bad, a little too much grinding without checking. Now the elevator horn hits the aft bulkhead F-112.

OK. I can replace the stop but my concern is, the elevator horn hits the bulkhead with only 26* up deflection. Is something really out of wack that the up deflection is so limited

The elevator horn would have to be ground down where it hits the bulkhead to achieve full deflection...

Any insight would be appreciated.


Axle Cotter Pin Hole Location

Matco wheels/brakes installed and axle nut tightened down. These photos show how close the cotter pin hole would be to the end of the axle. Seems awful close to me. Any thoughts??


F-1207A baggage bulkhead question

Has anyone encountered the F-1207A bulkhead bowing when installed to the F-01207C left and rights? Appears the holes are about 1/2 a hole off when put in place. Here is a picture to show what is happening. I can't find what I am doing wrong with these pieces.


On Bird Nests

(OP) Birds nests in horizontal stab
Found some birds were trying to build new condos in my horizontal stabilizer. Luckily it was early in construction and I was able to pull out most of the sticks and straw.

I've started tying my control stick with the seatbelts after flights in my -9A. It pulls the stick back and opens up the holes in the horizontal stabilizer. Any ideas on how to prevent birds from nesting in there? Is there some solution that doesn't require me removing/adding some plug material before/after every flight?

(Reply) That is kinda funny. We want to fly like the birds, but then uninvite them to the party - at least, anywhere near us or our parked planes.

Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I explained the situation well. The holes I was referring to are on the sides of the horizontal stabilizer.


Extending a metal lip?

Not a big deal (except to me), but I trimmed the left side of my instrument panel 1/4" too far, I can easily adjust to make it look fine, but.... y'know. I was thinking I might be able to make a lip out of JB Weld (like I'd do with a bit of resin and filler if I was working with fiberglass), maybe put a thin piece of metal on the back to support it. Piece I need to add is only ~1.5" long, and is non-structural/load-bearing

The panel is going to be veneered, so the repair/extension will be covered up, thoughts about if this is possible?


Proud caretaker of an RV-10!

After a crazy 3 week period at the beginning of which I seriously started looking for an RV-10, I flew home today from Albuquerque in the plane that was posted by Guy Prevost a couple of weeks ago on the forum! We completed the transaction on Tuesday, I got my 5 hours of transition training yesterday and flew it home today (KRHV in the Bay Area) including a landing and a takeoff at Fox field (KWJF) in winds that were 22G29 which the plane handled like a champ!

This forum has been fantastic in providing a lot of good input and some people that contributed very directly who I'd like to thank:

Guy (obviously) - he was fantastic and really went above and beyond to help me understand the plane and its systems!
Don Ecckers - he was extremely helpful leading up to the purchase and came out to Albquerque to do the pre-buy!
Lee Otto - he did an awesome job on the transition training with the short window we had!
Bob Turner - he gave me a demo flight and a whole lot of information about an RV-10. I look forward to flying with him now to learn more about the plane.

I'm obviously exhilarated but also terrified that I now have to take on responsibility for the maintenance that I had happily abdicated to my club A&P's in the past! I look forward to learning a lot more from all the awesome folks on the forum.


This canopy could be the death of me!!!

Ok maybe that's a little dramatic but I'm so frustrated over this canopy. I had the euphoria inducing milestone of riveting on the last metal, the forward skin. My buddy then says let's put the canopy on. I didn't want to do it. I wanted to just revel in the moment of the last rivet going in. Well we attempted to put it on. The front catches on the forward skin in 3 places and is now deformed. The right side is now about 1/8 " further back so the canopy and rear window plexi now hit each other. That also means there's a larger gap on the right side at the front of the canopy. I only hope I can fix each problem spot so it looks half decent. I'm not building a show plane but I sure don't want people saying wow what a piece of **** canopy. Please let me know there's a light at the end of the canopy tunnel. I have a hangar waiting for me and this is what's holding me up from getting it there.


My RV Weekend ...various



RV-10 Cabin Cover Fitting Question

Today I began trimming the cabin cover to fit on the fuselage. After trimming to the scribe lines, the dimension between the edges of the door pillars is 37-7/16", approximately.

The dimension between the aluminum frames forward and aft of the doors is approximately 37". Looking at the cabin cover, in order to cut it to 37", it would require cutting almost the entirety of the straight/flat vertical fiberglass parts of the door frames out and leaving only the curved parts. This would take out a significant portion of the reinforced areas where the door latch pins will go.

This doesn't seem to be right. Can anyone compare their experiences with mine?


Our Airplane's Tie Down Rings

Here's what I did on the wingtips or our RV-6 after my local RV pals gave me grief for leaving the eyebolts under the wings. Besides, the tiedown rope or chain on the left usually fouls on the pitot tube. If folks really want me to, I'll remove the wingtip and take a couple more photos.


Identify this recess inside of top cowling

Happy Memorial Day!

I would like to know what the small recess is for on the Right inside of the top cowling. (RV7A). In the picture you will see the recess for the oil door bottom left, and above that near front of cowl there is a small rectangular recess.

I'm finishing up the baffles and they are directly below this recess. I'm thinking I should fill it in with micro and contour to shape. The reason is that the baffle seal would seal better if all was smooth.

What is it for?

Can I, Should I fill it in?



Memorial Day, 2022. 
  The VAF News is observing Memorial Day and will start back up with the Tuesday edition.  Mothership is also closed.

"We should guard their graves with sacred vigilance. All that the consecrated wealth and taste of the nation can add to their adornment and security, is but a fitting tribute to the memory of her slain defenders. Let pleasant paths invite the coming and going of reverent visitors and fond mourners. Let no vandalism of avarice or neglect, no ravages of time testify to the present or the coming generations, that we have forgotten as a people the cost of a free and undivided Republic. If other eyes grow dull, and other hands slack, and other hearts cold in the solemn trust, ours shall keep it well as long as the light and warmth of life remains to us."

---General John Logan, General Order No. 11, May 5, 1868




5/27/2022.  Issue #5,579.
Twenty four days since my last RV flight - fixed that Thursday a.m.  A .3 re-centered the mental gyros and moved the oil around.  Felt good to take Flash up for a spin.  Semi-respectable overhead.
  Mothership will be closed Monday, May 30th in observance of Memorial Day.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.


Pinched end support rods ...Stevea's take

Use something like this in the vice jaws to give a rounded transition from round tube to flat end. The jaw guards are so old I don't even remember where I got the material. But is nothing more than aluminum angle stock (window frame grade) with a rounded over edge, about 3/16" radius. Make something like this out of aluminum (aircraft grade or not) and round over the edge with a router bit. Or use hard oak or maple blocks. Point is, this produces a gradual transition to the flat part.

All of my stainless steel Vetterman exhaust hangars are made this way, as is my 4130 steel oil cooler diagonal brace. The 4130 steel was heated cherry red and allowed to cool in air after forming. None of my exhaust hangar ends or oil cooler brace has cracked in just over 1000 hours service.

Simply smashing the ends in the sharp jaws of a vice (as in the OP's photo) will clause a stress point in the material, that may lead to a cracked/broken part right at the round to flat transition.

FYI: yea, I know that is a piece of aluminum tubing in the photo.....only think I could find in my scrap bin. Sorry no photo of my oil cooler brace, but it looks like the one mburch posted in his photo....same material, same thickness, same configuration except the cylinder head end mounts to the side baffle through a 1/16" x 3/4 AL angle , above the head, using a 3/16 bolt. Seems to work. NO cracks in the aluminum stack up on the back right corner of the baffles.


Need some advice on soldering tiny terminals

This particular skill set isn't something I've had a lot of practice with, and I'm trying to solder leads on the little $2 PTT switch that Stein sells, without much success.

I've ruined 2 of these darn things so far. By the time the solder flows, the plastic terminal base where the terminal tabs come out of is also flowing, and that's the end of that.

On the first one I tried heating up the terminal and wicking the solder though the wire to it. Pretty obvious that was the wrong thing to do.

On the second attempt, I tried heating up the wire a little further away from the switch and wicking the solder the other way, away from the switch housing. Still melted

I'm using a cheap weller pencil style soldering iron with a fine tip if that matters, and I've tinned it before use.

Any tips?


David Paule -3B Status Report

The cowl cheek extensions arrived and as expected, they don't fit my RV-3B. Remember, they are RV-4 parts, so there's no reason that they should. They are a bit short on width, skin to outboard face, as shown here.


Matco wheel bearings slinging grease

During postflight inspection yesterday I noticed this. Not sure when it may have started; not noticed until this walkaround. These wheels have only seen some normal taxiing, one high speed taxi and five landings. The photo is of the left wheel; the right also showed signs of grease oozing past the seals but hadn't gotten enough out to fling onto the rims. Is this normal for new wheels? Should I be rechecking my bearing tightness? Any input on this output would be greatly appreciated.


Excessive Tail Shaking/Buffet

Looking for some ideas from the brain trust. I have a RV-8 (not the original builder) that I purchased in 2020. It was completed in 2019. The builder is very experienced and well known. The plane performed really well until we had it painted. Since then there has been intermittent Tail Shaking first detected on the flight back from the paint shop.

My research has shown that this seems to be a known aerodynamic issue with the RV-8 design where there is pronounced tail buffeting/shaking just prior to stall due to dirty air flowing over the wing roots and down to the tail.

Our testing has found that this occurs at about 67kt clean and the tail shaking is bordering on quite violent when it happens.

My real question is why this issue would suddenly start occurring after paint. We have checked and re-torqued all the attachment bolts in the empennage and everything looks good.

Any ideas?


Closed Cell foam to seal the baggage door? ...Lkitson PIREP

I used rigid closed cell insulation board that I had laying around the shop. I also fabricated an aluminum angle and riveted it to the door hinge support to help hold the foam in and to give it a more finished look.


Mothership News


New First Flights Reported ..on the mothership



5/26/2022.  Issue #5,578.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

Support Rod DIY ...mburch

I made this oil cooler support brace by pounding some 0.058" wall 4130 tube over the round edge of an anvil, annealing the ends with a torch, and painting:


200kt GS ...Tommy Lewis

Our turn
Once again we had the experience of watching the ground speed exceed 200 knots. Because of the weather map for eastern half of the country this week, we left N TX on Sunday for N Indiana in our RV10 and then continued east to New Hampshire on Monday. On the second leg on Monday, we had a great tail wind for a long time and enjoyed the speed. Check out our spot tracking map below.


-7 Status Update ...idubrov

...and vertical stabilizer is finally complete, too (after rebuilding the whole front spar assembly).


Damaged RV-10 Horizontal stab - how to fix?

Horizontal Stab got dropped and damaged the leading edge beyond repair. Two ways to fix:

- Start all over and completely rebuild with all new parts, or

- Drill out all rivets, and disassemble the structure as necessary, then redo with new skins.

If I do the second option, any concerns with the structure being weakened after drilling out all those rivets? I'm pretty good at drilling out rivets, but some holes are going to wind up slightly bigger.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.


Mothership News


-3 Control Locks ...HFS

The attached pics are for ailerons/elevators & a 2-piece, 1" web strap (velcro overlap closure), with insulated, spring type laboratory clamps on each end, for the rudder. The cross "brace" is to stabilize the aileron movement in a high wind environment - not always used.

The web straps "clamp" onto the rudder cables at the seat bulkhead, and then go forward and wrap around the stick, then velcroed after "snugging" them together.

The lab clamps (McMaster P/N 5164A41) can be adjusted tightly enough to secure the rudder cables against the bulkhead.


-14 Extended Range W&B ...Ken reply

This is an interesting question...at the beginning of the development effort I was worried about it - won't the ER fuel make the loaded airplane nose heavy?

The additional fuel's effect on CG location turned-out to be smaller than I had expected. You can study the attached image if, like me, you're a number-nerd but the quick & dirty summary is as follows:

For RV-14, with a light pilot and max fuel, the difference in CG position between "standard fuel" and "ER fuel" is only .03 inches or 0.1% chord.

For RV-14 ER, loaded to the MTOW of 2050 lb with 100 lb baggage and 67 gallons of gas, the difference in CG position between "standard fuel" and "ER fuel" is .24 inches or 0.5% chord.

In retrospect, it should not have been such a surprise to me that the weight of the ER fuel made such a small difference in CG position - aircraft designers strive to place the fuel as close to the CG as possible. This minimizes the change in CG that necessarily happens as fuel is burned-off.


Garmin G3X CAN Bus issue

I've been having issues with my G3X system recently (been flying close to a year with about 80 hours TT). I lost portions of the panel display shortly after takeoff (from Leadville, CO of all places). I climbed for a few minutes while debating whether I should land and everything returned to normal. I decided to return to my home airport (KCFO) and all was normal until it recurred while in the pattern at KCFO. My panel was built by Steinair who suspects that it's a loose connection somewhere in the CAN Bus. I've been pulling harnesses and inspecting them but have yet to find anything amiss.

I've been able to get it to occur a few more times while taxiing and have taken some videos and uploaded to a non-published YouTube channel for SteinAir to review. I believe the errors have been the same every time it's occurred. We're still troubleshooting but I thought it would be worth sharing links to a few of the YT videos just for everyone's information what it looks like. I certainly welcome any suggestions anyone might have.

I believe SteinAir has already been in contact with Garmin but I was hoping the Garmin folks would take a look and offer their thoughts. I will say that SteinAir's support has been excellent and they've reassured me they'll get it figured out and get it fixed. The question is do I feel comfortable flying it about 4 hours to their shop in MN? I feel like all the required instrumentation is there to be legal for VFR flight (between the PFD & MFD) as long as it doesn't act up in any way different than it has to this point. Here are links to a couple of the videos:

After reviewing the videos, it does appear to be a CAN bus failure. Of note, your PFD is still displaying your flight instruments, while the MFD is displaying the EIS information. That is because in addition to the primary means of communication between the various pieces of equipment that make up the G3X Touch system, the CAN bus, there is a second backup data path between the displays and those LRU's that provide critical information needed for flight (EIS and ADAHRS data).

We cant say for sure, but the behavior is indicative of an intermittent wiring problem, in which the CAN bus wiring is being shorted to ground. This can happen if the insulation on the CAN bus wire has been compromised, and a strand of the shield is making contact with the conductor.

It may be best to contact us at G3Xpert@Garmin.com (or 1-866-854-8433), so we can help walk through the troubleshooting process with you.



5/25/2022.  Issue #5,577.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

From the Weekend ...Smokey Ray

Back to the future...
Last weekend I attended an F16 squadron reunion at Gaston's resort in AR. It was a reunion in more ways than one as a squadron bro in attendance arrived in his RV8, one I am intimately familiar. Way back in 99' when I lived in CA I assisted my (then) neighbor BH in building it, then test flew and later sold for him. I've screened the buyers since and it's now owned by "RedDog"!

How cool is that?


Third Test Flight ...plane update.  goatflieg

I forgot to mention here that Dave Carrick had performed the third test flight on May 17th. The canopy skirt seals I installed solved the vibration problem, but the spinner backing plate was still rubbing the bottom cowl. Aside from that, he cleared me to fly it. I worked on the cowl some more and waited on weather before I made my first flight.


RV-10 Cup Holder ...Dad's RV-10


Drip Pan Failed

Today I was doing a routine engine inspection after flying 5 hours since my annual. My left drip pan for the carburetor had failed due to fatigue failure. The crack was at the 90 degree bend at the forward end of the horizontal pan. Total time in service 1174 hours since March 2012 when I did first flight. Thought I would pass on the info so others can check theirs. Replacement parts on order - it's too hot in PHX to fabricate one from scratch!


Forward rib fluting question

Hi 14'ers!

I've been fluting the forward ribs based on the "tabletop" then "straight edge" approaches, and I think I'm getting good results. However the ribs with a cutout for the stiffeners exhibit something I'm unsure of.

You can see from the difference in image 1 and 2 below that the aft upper portion of the rib seem to "cog" between these two orientations. It doesn't take much force to alight the fore and aft sections into a line, but the rib really doesn't want to sit that way by itself.

The fluting activity doesn't make this tendency better, in fact it probably worsens it a bit. But as you can sorta see from the edge shot below, I'm getting the rivet holes lined up nicely.

So am I ok, or missing something?


Brown Tool AMT DAY Coupon Code - Good May 24th ONLY

.Today, May 24th is officially recognized as AMT (Aviation Maintenance Technician) Day in 45 states. May 24th was chosen because it is Charles Taylor's birthday and as the engine mechanic for The Wright Brothers, he is considered by many as the 'first' aircraft mechanic.

In honor of AMT DAY, we are offering a 10% discount off of any order of $100 or more if you use the coupon code AMTDAY and place your order before 11:59pm central time today, May 24th. This discount code applies to ALL items on our website, even items that are already on sale or kits that are already discounted. If you are considering buying a new Sioux Drill, a top-of-the-line Chicago Pneumatic Rivet Gun, or even one of our RV Tool kits, today is the day to do so!


The simple rules: You must place your order of $100 or more online before 11:59pm, central time, today, 5-24-22, and you must enter the coupon code AMTDAY (must be in all caps) when checking out. Of course discount is only for new orders and does not apply to previously placed orders. Dealers/resellers are ineligible.

Don't forget, that we offer FREE shipping to any address in the USA for orders over $100 that are paid with a credit card.

Just like everyone else, we are dealing with ongoing supply chain issues. While most of our nearly 4000 different part numbers are in stock for immediate shipment, there are a few products that are delayed or that might have a lead time that is longer than normal. Placing your order today will lock in the discounted price, even if the item is temporarily out of stock. Again though, the overwhelming majority of our nearly 4000 part numbers are in stock and will ship immediately.

Thanks everyone for your continued support and again, HAPPY AMT DAY!

Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply, LLC
Oklahoma City, OK
michael @ browntool . com

[ed. I'm sorry I didn't see this until 2200Z on the 24th, about 7 hours until the deadline.  Hopefully some folks will see it.  v/r,dr]


Cracked Air filter housing

I was helping a friend on his 10 year old RV-10 with 500 hours and found this:



5/24/2022.  Issue #5,576.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

From the Current 'My RV Weekend' Thread


Cutting the 6" hole, question?

So I'm a couple weeks out from having to make the 6" hole cut in the fuel tank rib. I have heard all the stories of using the fly cutter and how it can murder you if not careful. So my question is, is there any reason a 6" hole "saw" "cutter" cannot be used in place of the fly cutter? It is thin aluminum, so I'm just curious if anyone has tried it or has experience. Oh and yes before anyone says it, I know if you take your time and secure the piece to the drill press and use a slow RPM, the fly cutter will work well. Thanks guys. I tried to post a web link for reference of a possible candidate.

Sorry about the quality of this pic - it was taken with a Polaroid (remember them?) in 1986 - but it shows the basic idea of "sandwiching" the rib web between two pieces of plywood to help eliminate the possibility of "hooking" an exposed edge when cutting.

This is nothing new, but I just thought I'd bring to your attention.

YMMV - and probably will.


Cloud Residue - Beware!

Even though it's mid May, there might still be some "cloud residue" waiting for the unsuspecting. Pireps reported negative ice. Even though it wasn't forcast, the conditions were certainly present and when given the descent, I considered my options before starting down. In this case, it was of only minor concern since the cloud layer was verified to be less than two thousand feet thick and I'd be in a descent the entire way down. Once out, there was over 7000 feet of warmer air between me and the ground. Still, I picked up this much cloud residue in about two minutes coming down at about 1000fpm and 150kts:


-7/7A Riveting the Bottom Skin Issue

There is interference while riveting the trailing edge / rear spar near the aileron hinge. I manage to fit a pop rivet in one of the holes but the other is just blocked. Looks like the reinforced rear spar addendum is the culprit. Without any advice, looks like one hole will just have to be filled at some point.



Build Update: cgeyman

Wingtip alignment
I found my right wingtip to be 3/8 inch lower than my aileron and flaps when all was rigged properly. I missed the memo of NOT drilling the wingtips until the flaps and ailerons are fully fitted and rigged to the chord line. As other before have done, you can dremel split the fiberglass and adjust it and reglass, you can drill out and shift/tweak its position and reattach, or fly and see how it behaves. I am doing the latter for now but did order a new right tip as I want a do over anyway given mild rib positioning issue on my first tip. I don't want a heavy wing but lots of variables to this.


-14 Center Pedestal Ideas ...continued

Cup holder



5/23/2022.  Issue #5,575.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

My RV Weekend ...various


Tom Swearington Update ...our friend recovering.

Not necessarily RV related, but will be----I came home Friday afternoon. Several boxes stacked up of things to do---not sure what yet, but from clients. YES--as soon as I get a little more strength I'll handle them. Promise.
I tried to forward most of the pressing email traffic to Steve so he could help process things. I have some in the order of like 75 that I need to go over. Ya'll---please be patient YES----I will get to all of them.

I'll say here again for the record, the RV community is the BEST. Your thoughts and prayers mean so much, its motivating.

So first nite "jitters" its this really going to work? Will I breathe when I sleep without the oxygen? Well apparently so, because I'm writinng this on Saturday morning. The sun came up, some planes are flying at 3J1, so maybe all is well.
Going to be on antibiotics for a couple of weeks and more follow up DRs appointments than I remember seeing DRs for---but whatever.

To those of you in the medical community----Heroes all. You don't get enough credit when lives are saved. 2 times now, Ive been on the verge of disastrous consequences, and each time Drs nurses and specialty staff have brought me back so I could make some contribution. All of you need to stand up and be recognized.

We take alot of things for granted these days, I know I do/did. Hug a Dr, Hug a nurse, Hug a respiratory therapist, hug the CNA that wakes you up aout of the best sleep you've had to take your vitals and then says go back to sleep. Yeah right----BUT--she/he is doing an important job that seems pretty annoying to someone that was sleeping. Now that I've seen a broader picture, all of you are a team. From the Dr that I gave a hard time about the chest tube procedure hurting, to the late nite radiology shift doing chest xrays and CTs on me, to the night nurse who was helping me get well, while her husband is in chemo------All of your dedication is way beyond the call of duty. I appreciate all of you alot more.



Vent session ahead.

I was taking my time and being careful on the RV-10 fuel tanks since I know that a small misstep can cause serious pain and labor later. Left tank came out great. Right tank is near completion. Just before installing the rear baffle I installed the plug for the currently unused fuel return flange that I installed. Applied locktite 567 liberally to both the plug and flange. Backed the plug out a half turn any time I felt resistance. Finally during the last turn the torque was almost at 120 in/lbs and I pushed through a tiny bit of resistance when I felt the galling. Tried to unscrew it a little to relube the threads and it didn't want to budge.

Used a lot of force to unscrew it as a galled NPT fitting likely won't seal and definitely wont work if I end up installing a return line later and sure enough, strips the threads on both the plug and flange.

Luckily the Baffle is not yet installed, but the VA-141 flange is on backorder. Looks like I will have my right fuel tank sitting open for a while longer. Who knows how long the flange is on backorder for. Frustrating and nobody to blame but myself. At least I should be happy it is only a $40 mistake and fixable since the rear baffle was not yet installed.


A Box Checked Thanks to the RV...

....a couple of times over the last two weeks.  Side hustle first Gulfstream G-V SIC (PIC visits here and built an RV).  Barely hanging on the tail mentally pretty much both flights, trying to remember 10%.  Still mentally a little whooped - all new experiences.  First Gulfstream gig.  First over-ocean trip.  First visit to Hawaii (felt like Six Flags).  A very patient PIC who hid his eye rolls well - they had to be there!

Hard to fully grasp where this RV hobby has led, and I bet there are hundreds if not thousands of stories just like it.  Unexpected life journeys brought on by being in the RV world.  It just seems to happen.  One minute you're building a vertical stab in your garage because you dream of having a VFR airplane for your VFR ticket, and the next you're in the cockpit at FL430 on the planet's longest leg over water without an alternate.  Mind spinning...  I guess the takeaway is don't be too surprised when your RV hobby takes your life down a path you didn't anticipate.  It can be amazing.  And humbling.


Garmin is letting me demo one of their new D2 Mach 1 watches for a few.  It locked in just fine (also used on the airline trip home).  Bluetoothed to GP following along with VFR sectionals on the phone made the airline trip home more enjoyable.  There's the boneyard, there's that little town and yep, the airport's on the west side just like on the chart.  Extending the Track Vector Line out 20nm with the flight plan entered (from FlightAware) you could tell when center would let us cut a corner, giving us direct to a VOR further down the line and such.  The watch said I slept 'Fair' on the trip.  #NerdPorn  #INeedALife  #HelpMe  #ActuallyPrettyCool as the kids say.


As I was getting on board the airliner for the trip home from the west coast, with thoughts of taking the RV-6 into the air in a day or so, the wifey texted she had Covid (again).  Emailed the sim to start the process of whatever Covid protocol is in place currently.  They wanna know things like this.  My involvement in a couple of scheduled sims this week at odd times may be on hold.  Developing...

Life 101.  Gonna be a busy week and I may end up with it (again).  For better or worse as they say.  I signed up for this.  ;^)


The Yips - not just for golf

Just when I thought I was getting the hang of riveting, along came the tanks. I can't set a good rivet to save my life all of the sudden! I abandoned trying to rivet with freshly applied proseal because that made everything 10X worse (and also made it so I couldn't see what the rivet result was anyway - something that became more and more important as I screwed up one rivet after another). So now I'm going the route of letting the proseal cure just a bit so I can at least see what my rivet heads look like. I should have kept living in ignorance - I think I'm probably shooting 50/50 for acceptable vs clinched rivets. I have no idea why I'm laying them over suddenly - bucking bar looks parallel to the surface and it's the proper rivet length. The worst offenders tend to be the last few rivets on the top side leading edge. I've gotten my use out of oops rivets there.

After the swear jar filled up enough to fund a second airplane, I finally just called it. Very frustrating.


Muffler Crack

I'm doing Annual Condition Inspection now and found a crack in the muffler where the exit exhaust tube is welded on. Looks like vibration induced metal fatigue from long cantilever exhaust tube. TT=750. Muffler is in back of car and headed for local TIG welding shop...


IAC East Coast Championship results!

Huge congratulations to both Bill McLean and Ben Poffenberger!!!

Both competed in their RV-4's during this past weekend's Mark Fullerton Memorial East Coast Championship. Bill took 1st place out of 9 contestants in Sportsman and Ben took 2nd place out of 6 in Primary. Impressive results gentlemen!!! Please give us a PIREP and post some pictures. I'm sorry I couldn't be there this weekend to support you all.

Hopefully this will be the motivator If you've been thinking about competing in IAC sanctioned events. Please feel free to reach out to me, Bill, Ron Schreck, and Eric Sandifer and we will be happy to guide and assist you. Here is a list of upcoming contests. Pick one and go for it! I plan on being at the June 18th Warrenton VA contest. Hopefully my Extra will be out of the avionics shop by then!


RV-7 #75069 Build Update

After many working sessions, getting to the point of no return: this nose rib is going to be hidden inside the part!  Looks good to me. Couple of rivets are not exactly straight, but this should do. I noted that I instinctively tend to get shop heads on a smaller side. There was one head ~0.126" (which is still good according to the spec, which gives ~0.122" minimum for 3/32" rivets), but I hit it few more times.


F-603, F-6103 or F-703

I'm in the planning stages (for many months) of a panel upgrade in my RV6.

In a thread on replacement panels from a couple months ago, Paul Dye and Mike Starkey recommended that a DIY approach was well worth it, and that it wasn't necessary to hire out the panel cutting to someone else. I'm going to give it a try. I may order an extra blank or two though...

I'm not sure which panel blank I need. The plane currently has an F-603 panel, which is 11" tall. I want to keep that format. Searching F-603 on the Van's site only yields the F-6103 OVSZ. Per the description, F-6103 OVSZ can be used in the 6, 7 and 9 tip-ups, and measures 14"x42", but has a (confusing) Q&A response stating it is 11"x42" (see the picture).

The F-703 description only shows the 7 and 9 tip ups.

Can I use the F-703 in a tip-up RV6?

I've been told some trimming/shaping is required no matter what I get, but it seems like if the F-6103 OVSZ works in the 6, 7 and 9, then F-703 would too.

I'm planning to give Vans a call later today, but thought someone here might be able to help.


Alternate Air PIREP ...Flyhud

This is how I did mine, bottom plate is pro sealed to fiberglass.


Help with primer issue!

Hello, first post, and I need some help! I'm having an issue getting self etching primer to stick to aluminum angle. I have done all the research on priming and decided that I would prime parts with rattle can primer for the most part. After a lot of research it seemed that most folks had good success with the SES self etching primer that Aircraft Spruce sells. After a couple of attempts I am still having issues. I have tried roughing the surface with a maroon scotch brite pad, no luck, so I then went to 80 grit paper and still couldn't get adhesion. I think I have talked enough so please see attached photos and I would love to hear how you folks that have used this have had success. Thanks!


-14 Storage Ideas ...Jim PIREP

I'm moving my canopy release handle from the central panel (RV14) to the center pedestal area. I plan on mounting it higher than plans call for in OP-63 (Cable routing looks good). I'm looking some photo ideas of what others have built in the space. Prefer open cubby to store iPhone etc.



5/20/2022.  Issue #5,574.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

-4 says hey.  Love that cowl!


PH Aviation Retro Kit

Here is our sneak preview of our "retro kit." Really all you will need for all of the single-digit RVs are the two brackets, an AN5-13 bolt, nut, and cotter key.

We'll be offering these kits shortly. Here we're showing an RV-6 flap channel that we recently removed from the airplane with the legacy flap motor installed. We'll be taking this apart to make a video that will show the steps for converting to the new flap actuator. Next to it is a new RV-9 flap channel that we're currently building. The new flap actuator is currently being installed in the channel. They are both very similar and hopefully it's obvious that it's a pretty simple conversion in either case.


How bumpy is too bumpy or too windy?

I am still a student pilot. I have about 40 hours solo and 15 or so instruction in my 9A. I am not a fan of bouncing around when I fly but here in Michigan calm days are rare.

I have limited my flying to less than 10 mph on the ground or a 5-7 knot cross wind. As it heats up here, the different types of land - trees, lakes, farm land, all cause thermals and some pretty bumpy rides.

It still freaks me out a bit when it starts getting bumpy. I have been trying to fly through it thinking I will get used to it. I am better but I do cut some of my flights short because I am not enjoying it.

Any suggestions on how to become more comfortable in the bumps or flying technique that will help?


Spar nutplate countersinks

Hi team 14!

Please check me. I'm getting ready to countersink the spar for the center screw holes in the fuel tank and access panel nutplates. I created a test sample to try and get the depth of this countersink right using some rather thick bar stock and a K1000-06 nutplate.

I'm aware of the .007 rule for countersinking below a skin dimple for rivets but less clear about the approach for this special case. The instructions offer that for the #6 nutplate the max outer diameter of the dimple should be 7.8mm and the max inner should be 4mm.

On my test sample I snuck up on about 7.5mm OD and test fit a piece of scrap skin with a #6 dimple applied to it. The result is attached. I think the skin to spar gap is something like .008 on average all around (I can't quite get a .010 feeler gauge into the gap). Pls ignore the oversqueezed rivets, this bar stock is thicker than the real spar.

What do you all think. Am I on the right track here?



Fuel sender

Replacing fuel senders in my rv7a but since I don't have a clue what fuel leaks with these sensors looks like, I would like some help to figure out where the fuel was coming from. I didn't use pro seal, just the rubber gasket the sensors came with(Stuwart Warner). The inside of the sender is clean so the only thing I can think of is that the fuel seeps through the threads on the screws. I have pictures but need help posting. Sorry that I am not technically literate.


Left Flap Process ...Jslow2


How did you guys wire pitot heat annunc. into the G3X?

I have the heated but non-regulated version of garmin's pitot heater and would like to have a CAS "pitot heat on" message.

The original plan was to run a wire off the downstream side of the switch, through a fuseable link and into a discreet input on the GAD27.

Some sort of wire protection is highly desirable if I go this route, because the other wire coming off that terminal is the wire to the heater that's running through a honking big 20 amp breaker.

Unfortunately, I don't think I can get bigger that a 22 wire into the D-sub pin in the GAD27 connector, which would require a ridiculously small 26awg wire to make a fuse link. I don't have any wire that small, and don't know that I could crimp it successfully even if I did.

I considered an inline fuse, but space is extremely limited behind the switch panel, with only about an inch back there, so I can't have anything very bulky.

Is the answer here to make the fuse link 24awg into a 20 awg wire that has some strands cut out to get it to fit in the pin? Or is there a better solution? What did you guys do?


Sportsman II Seats for RV-14...Classic Aero announcement

We have just introduced a new style of seats for the RV-14. It's the Sportsman II (as oposed to our Aviator style of seats). Click the links or images for more details.



5/18/2022.  Issue #5,572.
  Sched is dynamic for the remainder of the week - expect varied edition push times.  Tanx.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

More from 'My RV Weekend'


My RV-10 left aileron jammed at full deflection!

Something I thought might be of interest to RV-10 people. Perhaps other models as well. I also shared this with Van's.

I was laying on my back doing some modification to wiring underneath the instrument panel. While I was doing that work the control stick was deflected to the left. After completion of my work underneath the panel I discovered that the control stick was jammed in the full left position. Forward / rear travel was unrestricted, but there was no ability to move the stick left / right.

At the ailerons themselves, the right aileron (deflected down) could be deflected only very slightly (consistent with normal control system "slop"), however, the left aileron was locked very tightly in the full up position. No movement at all was possible.

I disconnected the left aileron push rod (W-1018) at the bellcrank inside the wing. (See page 23-9 in RV-10 plans). Only after lifting up on the rod did I free the aileron.

Here's what I discovered.

1. During final aileron installation/rigging what I believed to be aileron contact at the aileron stop was actually the shopped end of the vertical rivet on the W-1018 pushrod contacting the rear face of the rear wing spar opening. Please see the attached image. This contact mimicked what could reasonably be determined to be aileron stop contact.

The ailerons demonstrated required deflection angles even with the rivet/rear spar contact.

With the rivet acting as the false aileron stop there was approximately a .125 gap still remaining between the aileron and the actual aileron stop.

The behavior of the rivet/spar contact was easily confused with solid aileron stop contact. Furthermore, it is not easy to visually confirm proper aileron stop contact.

Both ailerons had this condition.

2. Over time the shopped end of the rivet, while making contact with the rear face of the rear wing spar, lost some of its squared finish. The rivet had rounded just enough to allow the rivet to "hop" over the rear spar and then snap down snugly on the forward side of the spar.

Remember that, due to the aileron pivot geometry, the W-1018 pushrod moves forward and down with forward movement. So when the pushrod moved forward, and the rivet "hopped" over the rear spar, the pushrod was held down even more securely with the rivet jammed on the forward side.

3. I had to add clearance at the bottom of the rear wing spar openings on both wings in order to assure no rivet/spar contact. The ailerons now properly contact the aileron stops without rivet interference.

4. This situation would likely have been unrecoverable if it had happened in flight. However, to get this situation to occur in flight would have been the result of hard-over full control stick deflection- something I hate to think of as responsive as the RV-10 is.


High Oil Temp ...close call update

I think I have found the cause of my high oil temp. Today while doing the 100 hr on the engine I found this (see pic below).
This oil line was re-routed when I installed an oil thermostat from Aircraft Specialties about 50 flight hours ago when I put the lower cowl / oil cooler back on I didn't see that it pushed the oil line against the exhaust manifold. This could have ended very bad had it gone on much longer.

I contacted Steve at Aircraft Specialties and asked if the hose was salvageable and he suggested replacing it, this was around noon today. Steve didn't have the hose in stock. He was able to make it and get it shipped next day UPS, Oklahoma to California and I will have it tomorrow. The best part is he covered it all under warranty. This was clearly my faulty installation, not a bad product. Unbelievable customer service.


Exhaust hanger on Superior IO-360

Can you guys shed some light on an exhaust hanger installation.

I have a Vetterman trombone exhaust with mufflers installed on a Superior IO-360 with the cold induction. Between the header and muffler/tail pipe is a ball type socket. I assume this is primarily for movement absorption.

As the pipes exit the cowl keeping a good airgap for spacing, I tried to install the hangars to the back of the engine, and I can't get a straight shot, so I mocked up this installation. I would like to get some opinions of experience from you.

Am I going to run into problems doing it this way?

If you have an IO-360 with a Vetterman trombone exhaust, how did you do it?


 Extended Range Fuel Tanks for RV-10 & RV-14

Sky Designs is pleased to announce that ER Fuel Tank Kits for RV-10 and RV-14 are now available.

Our ER tanks are the same as "standard" but extend two rib-bays further outboard to allow for approximately two hours greater endurance. They allow (optionally) for a second fuel quantity sender in the outboard-most rib bay of each tank. The design also incorporates a "fill-tab" for partial fueling -or de-fueling if you're a "Scrappy" wannabe - to a known level.


Status: Jordan

Loading up for the trip west.



5/17/2022.  Issue #5,571.
  Sched is dynamic for the remainder of the week - expect varied edition push times.  Tanx.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

Airworthy! ...Rusty Phillips

Vern Darley ,DAR , issues airworthiness documents to builder Rusty Phillips of Cullman,Al. Rusty, a retired Marine F-4 and F-18 driver and more recently a Fed X pilot, installed a IO-540 in his RV-8. Vern said Rusty's plane had zero squawks found in the inspection. Congrats Rusty!


More from the 'My RV Weekend' Thread


Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's is Back!!

Yes, the Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's hosted by EAA Chapter 1384 at scenic Carroll County Airport (KDMW) will take place Saturday June 25 from 8:30am-2:30pm. Rain date is Sunday June 26th. Food, beverages and great camaraderie are on the agenda, donations always appreciated! Spread the word that we are back and come join us for this fun day. Also, invite a GA friend along to see some great RV's on the flightline, but spot them a good head start so that you arrive just before they do! More info to follow over the next few weeks. Contact me, Steve Koziol 267 614-8251 for any questions.
Safe travels! Steve

[ed. Added to the VAF Calendar.  v/r,dr]


Bleeding (filling) the brakes ...Cal's 9A

Kept making a mess until I clamped the 3/8 tube onto my squirt gun and the nylon hard tubing (same used for pitot static)


Thank you and love to this community! ...Sam

Hello all,

I was feeling some emotions in the shop today and figured I'd allow myself a gratitude post; hopefully not too off-topic for general.

I'm in the home stretch of my RV-10 build, rigging control surfaces and one engine intake filter away from firing up the engine for the first time. I started the build in June of 2015. Some thoughts I had at the time:

- I bet I can finish this thing in 12 months tops.
- If I'm careful, I COULD be the first builder to never biff a single rivet. (I proceeded to rivet a doubler onto the wrong side of the vertical stabilizer spar and drilled out ALL of my first ~12 rivets. Another dream dashed.)

I now have a 3 year old daughter, twins on the way, I've moved jobs, houses... but after each long break in the build, when the fire and free time hit me, I come back to Vans Airforce and find the same level of excitement, care, veteran willingness to help others, and more and more build logs with unbelievable levels of love and energy and detail poured into them.

I can't wait to be done with my 10 and fly it for the first time, sure. This has been one of my life's major projects, and there is no way I could have gotten this far without all of you.

So THANK YOU ALL! I can't wait to meet more of you in person and show off this crazy project that everyone here has participated in in one way or another. You're amazing!


Easy setup paint screen ...Jeff Dingbaum

I was trying to cut down on overspray when I pull out the paint gun. I ran to harbor freight and got the tarp for less than $15, walmart shower curtain rings for about $1 and some 1/2" electrical conduit for about $12. I had the j hooks, but you can get them at your favorite big box home improvement store. It took me less than 1/2 hour to put in the j hooks, run the conduit and hang the tarp. I took it down after I was done and it took me all of 5 minutes to take down and 5 minutes to fold it up. Didn't have any overspray that I could see.


Houston area monthly lunch (May 2022) ...this Saturday.

Heyo folks! The third Saturday draws near, so let's sit down and get some food and chat handled. This time we'll rotate back to Hooks for burgers at the Aviator's Grill.

When: Saturday, 5-21, 11:30 AM
Where: Aviator's Grill at Hooks airport (KDWH)

[ed. Added to the VAF Calendar. v/r,dr]


On Kitplanes



5/16/2022.  Issue #5,570.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

RV-8 and the 2022 Condition Inspection ...Steve Rush

I just finished this year's condition inspection. It took much longer than usual, but I knew it would as I was doing more work than usual. At least I didn't miss very much good flying weather while I was down. The whole story is linked below. If nothing else, it should be a sure-fire cure for insomnia.


Exhaust System -14

Page 48-03

I have 2 of the EX-00004E
I have 6 of the EX-00004B
I have 2 of the EX-00004G

I only see where I use...

1 of the EX-00004E
2 of the EX-00004B
I of the Ex-00004G

Am I missing something? Are there more supports?


Rivet callouts on 10-13 bottom skin - check your lengths before setting! ...-14

...on page 10-13 it states AN426AD3-3.5 rivets for all of those bottom skin holes.

Thing is, the page has been modified to include the SB shear clips, which adds another .025 thickness and there's no way you properly set a 3.5 rivet through that much aluminum... well, no way Im going to properly set it. I ended up messing these holes up kind of bad and went with 1097 4-4.

Just be sure to check the length of these 4 rivets before you set them and have to make a mess yourself.


My RV Weekend


Tail support for my -7A

I'm going to be adding the Super Tracks and to do that I need to move my ELT antenna back about 10" and to do that I need to get in the tail cone and to do that I need a tail stand to keep the tail from crashing to the ground.

So I priced some on AS and they were way more than I wanted to pay. After poking about on the interwebs, I came up with this:

A $35 Harbor Freight grinder stand, some eyebolts, and 3/8" pipe & fittings from Home Depot aviation supply. I didn't even have to drill the grinder stand, just used the existing holes. It would have been a bit simpler if HD had a 8" long nipple but they didn't so I put the coupling on one end and just screw the 6" nipple into that when I hook it to the plane.


Metal found in oil screen

I did a oil change today and found this metal in the oil screen. The engine now has about 42 hours on it and the metall is not ferrous, look to be brass but can't say for sure.

Any thoughts as what this could be?

Edit: when you look at the picture up close, one side is serrated and rather uniformly and the other side is smooth.


RV Gathering in Germany

I am a member of the RV community in Germany. I built a 7 that is flying now for two years.

When it comes to RV's you guys in north America seem to be much better organized with all the Fly-ins and EAA chapters in the states etc.

In Europe we are much less connected with each other but we want to improve the situation. We want to perform a Vans Gathering beginning of June at Hildesheim-Germany.

Here's the link: https://rv-pilots.eu/#upcomingevents

Would it be ok to make an announcement on your web site so that more people in the European countries get aware of the event?

Best Regards

Kay Stecklum

[ed. The VAF Calendar is always open for business to promote RV events.  These get put on the front page starting 60 days before the event.  Worded another way, if your RV event is posted in the VAF Calendar it will be on the front page here starting two months before.  Feel free to use it!  v/r,]


-3B Update ...David Paule


High Oil Temp

Let's talk Oil Temperature in RV-12 with 912ULS

I recently discovered a crack in the muffler and was able to find an exact replacement exhaust system with only 70TT. Exhaust system is identical to original that I just replaced and it's in pristine condition. My 12 is an early SN with muffler located close behind the oil cooler.

Rotax originally allowed using Mobil 4T 10W40 Full Synthetic Oil. I continue to use this oil and now have 750TT with no problem.

With original exhaust I would sometimes see 240F oil temp in climb on a hot day. With new exhaust I see 250F oil temp at 85F OAT. Both CHT and EGT are relatively unchanged at ~ 200F and ~1290F.

I am in contact with Mobil Oil tech support and also Rotax with no definitive answers yet. They say they'll get back to me in a couple of days, but could be like telling a child "later for sure".

I've been searching the internet (I know... not good idea) and see automotive recommends 230-260F oil temps and I also see where Full Synthetic Oils can tolerate 300F.

250F is approx. mid-range yellow arc on Dynon D180 with Van's preset limits for Oil Temp.

I observe that oil pressure does not fall off at the high oil temp.

My question... what are max oil temps observed in RV-12 with Rotax 912ULS?

Thank you in advance


We Got Oil Pressure ...cgeyman milestone

Took several crank attempts on preoiling the pressure sensor- likely had to fill the filter first- then came gushing out sensor line. Quick connect to the kavlinko sensor and we got oil pressure- getting closer to real start. Pretty darn exciting.


-9 Status Report ...PilotjohnS

Sanding windscreen fairing. I made a sanding block use my french curve from high school and belt sander. I used aeropoxy and the stuff is pretty hard and sands well. Next step will be to smooth edges and start filling outside to smooth contour.

The sanding block allows me to sandxat an angle and match the desired curve.

I thought I was building a metal airplane.



5/13/2022.  Issue #5,569.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

Not Quite the weekend, but close enough...Daniel McCaffery

This Weekend marked the final weekend I had to study for my final skills checkoff for the semester of RN school. Today, I was able to finally get back in to shop for some one on one time with my RV-8 project!


2550 Hour Report ...Pete Howell

9er-Pop-Hotel turned 2550 on the hobbs flying back from South Bend to see Mom the other day! So I drained the oil after landing and went back the next day and cleaned the K&P filter and Suction screen, scoped the valves, and checked to see if she still has any compression the cylinders.

The filter had the usual carbon flakes that crush between the fingers and the screen had bigger chunks of the same. The filter magnet had a bit of ferrous dust. Cold compressions were 72,74,78,76. Plugs were dry and tannish in color. I added 1 Qt over the 50 hours, .5 at 35 hours and rest at 42 hours - she always burns a bit towards the end of the oil life.

My setup is a carbed O-320, dual EI, I run almost all 91 mogas and am LOP 90% of the time. On the trip to South Bend she ran great - at 9500 on the way down I was 149KTAS at 5.9-6.1 GPH. I run 20W-50 XC but no idea if it makes a difference.

Here are the new valve pics:


With Autopilot on right wing sits lower.

Whenever, I have Autopilot on, either using a NAV, heading or track the axes (tilt) of the aircraft is slightly lower on the Starboard wing (slightly higher port wing).

However, with the Autopilot not engaged the aircraft is level.

Any suggestions for the cause and correction would be appreciated.


Busted Tailwheel Chain Clip Solution ...DanH on the road

They can be safety wired. Or given a flotation test and replaced with:


D-180 Oil Temp Sensor - Can't Change Temp Limits

I have legacy RV-12 with Dynon D-180 EFIS. I want to modify some of the Oil Temp Sensor settings for green, yellow, and red bands. I get message "Using Custom Engine Display Settings" for the Oil Temp Sensor. Other sensors allow operator changes.

Does anyone know a workaround for this?


4-40 Countersink size?

What size countersink cutter for the 4-40 screw callout in Section 42 page 1?



5/12/2022.  Issue #5,568.
The Fri edition might be pushed out at a non-standard time - dynamic schedule.  v/r,dr
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

Got my RV Grin Today! ...Michela

I got my own RV Grin today flying my dad's airplane for the first time

My dad built this RV-9A & finished it last year. It hadn't flown since June 2021 before he passed away, so I got a condition inspection done by a local A&P a month or 2 ago.

It fired right up today! I am so thankful to RVbySDI for coming out to help me get it started & fly with me! It handled so well, & I had an absolute blast even though it was super hot outside lol... I will definitely need some more training before I'm signed off for insurance & comfortable enough to fly by myself. I'm excited we chose to keep this in the family

Also don't judge me for wearing a Ran's shirt while flying a Van's <g>


More from the My RV Weekend Thread ...various


RV-7 #75069 ...a new RV builder in San Antonio, TX

Started building an empennage kit of RV-7. Made some progress working on the vertical stabilizer.

And this is my damaged front spar assembly for the vertical stabilizer:

Lesson? Don't try to fix what is not broken ;^)


Elevator Balancing Mass ...an alternative approach (DanH)

Forget nutserts for this job. Wait until after paint and permanently attach the necessary mass.  This is a stack of primed and painted steel plates attached with five 5/32 SS pulled rivets.


Wiring Fundamental Videos

Several new wiring videos added in the last day on Garmin's YT.



5/11/2022.  Issue #5,567.
The Thu and Fri editions might be pushed out at non-standard times - dynamic schedule for the next 72.  v/r,dr
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

Windshield Milestone ...motodave

Glad to have the windshield installed and "framed". Lots on fiberglass and sanding... Mine is Sika bonded as is the canopy.



Good afternoon everyone. I just wanted to give a quick update on what's going on with Tom.

He had an unexpected medical procedure over the weekend and is recovering and resting. His medical team, as well as I, have been trying to get him to keep off his phone as much as possible. He is in good spirits and will be back up and running soon. I know he misses talking to builders every day.

If anyone has been awaiting a response to an email from him, this is why it is a bit delayed.

Aircraftspecialty@gmail.com is fully monitored and emails to that address are being responded to with normal lead times.

Thank you for your understanding,


7A Update ...Mark Rowe

Getting closer by the day !
I'm getting closer to wrapping up my plenum using a stock Vans cowl. Little more work to do around the bottom side of the inlets where they intersect the cooling ramps.


Pacific to Atlantic

I did Santa Catalina Island (KAVX) to Newport News Virginia (KPHF) by way of the Grand Canyon and everything in between. Andy are you bringing the twins to Idaho?

Having trouble posting the Grand Canyon picture, so imagine a really big hole with lots of rocks.


RE: Back Seat Throttles ...FitzRX7

There's was a F-16 accident where the pilot ended up ejecting after banging a throttle-shaped indent in his metal suitcase that had slid infront of the rear throttle when it was at idle. I have a similar setup to DanH, however I have it attached up front with a cotter pin and remove and slide back the rear throttle rod when not in use. Just my 2 cents!


Garmin Pilot 10.7.4   

Vid on new features

Garmin Pilot 10.7, for Apple mobile devices, introduces the ability to display NOTAMs on the map for taxiway and apron closures, enhancements to airspace and airport depiction on the dynamic map when zooming, raw NOTAM text decoding, and the ability to annotate maps. Additionally, support for the Stratux ADS-B receiver is now available.


Bending ...RV8JD PIREP

My RV-8 has the WD-715-1 wing tips (not sure what the -14 has) and they deform slightly in-flight as shown in the pic below. After 1170 hours there is no cracking in the paint or the glass.


Question: tips for the elevator and rudder

I haven't asked many questions here as I have a few A&P's to ask generic aircraft questions. However, this one is a bit of a stumper at the moment.

Question: when to install the tips for the elevator and the rudder?

The stabilizers are pretty easy: whenever.

The control surfaces are a bit different. There is a need to balance them by drilling (assuming here - nowhere near this step at the moment) out some of the led to balance the control surface.

So - allow the tip to be removed before final install post first flight (or whenever the balancing happens)? Or go for the fiberglass now, drill out as necessary and then patch the glass later?

Mostly just thinking this through at the moment. Just the latest problem to work on this adult 3D puzzle with a zillion spendy pieces.



5/10/2022.  Issue #5,566.
I updated the donations list to nearly real time over the weekend. Thank you again if you help support this site with a yearly donation. The margins are tight between profit and loss with any small business, so Susie and I really do appreciate those who help out. We're trying our hardest to bring you a quality product.
  Apologies for the commercial - I think it's the second of the year.  I hate 'um too.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.


My RV Weekend ...various



cgeyman -9A Status Report

Final wiring
Got seats in. Now just engine sensor wiring to the garmin system. Close to first engine start. Pretty exciting.


New RV-6

Vern Darley (L) issues Airworthiness documents to builder Roy Lindsey in Clanton,Al


DanH's RV-8 Rear Seat Throttle ...a pic


Light Up

Out of the blue....in Kitplanes
By Myron Nelson -May 9, 20220

When I first started construction on my RV-10 in 2007, old-school incandescent lights were making their way out of the market and LEDs were just coming in.


Engine Stumble Switching Tanks

On my RV-10 I had a recent engine stumble that I'm trying to wrap my head around. After fueling we took off on the first flight of the day from northern CA eastbound and climbing though 17,000' I switched from left to right tank. As soon as I moved the handle the engine quit so I promptly rotated the fuel selector back and she came back to life. We decided to make a precautionary landing nearby to check things out and upon landing ran up the engine on both tanks and couldn't duplicate the problem, of course.

I'm running EFII System32 which has a recirculating fuel line that maintains constant fuel pressure to each injector and a return line to the same tank. There is no engine driven fuel pump but rather a primary and secondary electric pump, one of which is operating at all times. When this event happened the system operated properly switching from pump 1 to pump 2 when it detected the fuel pressure drop. We checked the tank vents, refueled, ran her up thoroughly and decided to continue our trip. No further hiccups.

So, the question is, who's got a theory as to why this happened? Did an air bubble form just prior to the fuel selector in the unused tank feed that hit the system when I switched tanks? Perhaps if I hadn't have switched back to the left tank so quickly after the engine stumble it would have cleared. By the way, I don't have any hot tunnel issues so I don't think heat would have been a factor. I do have a bit higher than average vibration issues and am having the prop balanced soon. Could a small amount of water become frozen in the right fuel line? This was about 25 minutes into the flight and the OAT was 20F at altitude. The day prior I had flown 2.5 hours from my home base to CA and used both tanks doing it. I also make a point to make sure I run up the engine from both tanks before departing so this wasn't the first time it had run off the right tank that day. I had checked a fuel sample from the tank drains after fueling that morning and didn't find water. I've since learned, by the way, that the Andair fuel selector is designed so that there is virtually no "dead spot" between positions and have verified this on the ground.

Any ideas? Other than the PTSD I now have every time I switch tanks, I haven't even had a hint of a problem since.


Vlad Milos Wing Wiring Shots


JeremyL's Countersink Fiberglass Method

I don't know who needs to see this, but if you are trying to decide how to countersink fiberglass and don't want to destroy your metal countersinks, then this little tool is just the ticket. The perma-grit tungsten carbide stone is worth every penny (about $32 US with shipping from the UK). I purchased the 100 degree with no nipple, but they have nipples of various sizes. Makes quick work and a nice neat countersink. Perfect for tinnerman washers and the countersink needed for the flush rivets in the zip tip inspection panel. The 'no nipple' allows me to countersink any hole


RV-7A Status Report ...Larry Larson

Plenum. Finally. It fits. Slips right into the baffle boxes. A lot of work went into this. It looks like heck at the moment and needs some minor trimming to get the inlet gap perfect. Easy stuff. Tormorrow, I can finish sand and prep then apply the final carbon fiber skin and polish it. Should be really nice.


Question about Page 26-2 Part F-1066C

Hi Guys I have been priming the parts of the fuselage bulkheads and while those parts dry I started collecting the parts for the Chapter 26 "Mid Fuse Mid ribs and Bottom Skins". I have a question and thought one of you might have the answer, otherwise I will wait until Van's support opens later today. Page 26-2 Step 1 Instructs me to break apart the F-1066C Reinforcing angles. I can not find part F-1006C. I have a part listed as F-1066C-2 which is a reinforcing angle but has holes for nutplates and does not resemble the part shown on the plans. I have gone through my Fuselage inventory sheet and do not see a part F-1066C listed anywhere. I have F-1066A, and F-1066B, and F-1066C-2 as I said before.

Am I missing something? I do not see this part listed in on the inventory sheet so I wonder if there has been a change or something else I am not aware of?


5/9/2022.  Issue #5,565.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Another new owner grin ...b_raf

Picked up a new to me RV-6 last week. It was an amazing flight from KBDN back to KOLM while averaging over 30mpg! Bonus points is my 4y/o son thinks it's cool but was a little disappointed the glass panel couldn't stream youtube.



How to remove switches

I need to remove switches for panel upgrade. I can't determine the manufacturer, in turn can't determine how these detach. They are individually installed, not a bracket of sorts with all attached. Thanks


Enclosed Pressure Plenum Reply ...wirejock

Lots of them. To be clear, the baffles don't get replaced. Traditional baffles are aluminum with a strip of material used ti seal the space against the top cowl. The plenum is basically a sealed cover attached to the baffles. I just finished fitting mine. Still needs some tweaks and final carbon fiber layer to make it purdy. Mine was a pretty big modification. The inlets are part of the bottom cowl. Top cowl is more like a cover. Plenum has inlets matching the cowl and will be sealed with neoprene sleeves.


IO-360-M1B Second Heat Muff

So this is part of the experimenting in experimental aviation.

Last year I ordered and received my exhaust system directly from Vetterman Exhaust. When talking to Clint about my engine, a IO-360-MIB, he said a second heat muff was not available due to the the M1B configuration.

BUT, it so happened he was working on a prototype second heat muff and did I want to give it a try. Heck yes I wanted to give it a try. I live at over 4000' in Joseph, Oregon and I'll take all the heat I can get.

Well, I'm finally installing the exhaust and the second heat muff is in place. The exact way to connect the two muff outlets hasn't been figured out yet but here's some photos anyway.

AND yes, that is what you think it is on the # 4 exhaust bend

EDIT: PS- how does one free up the ball joints on these exhaust? It's my understanding they should have some movement...mine are as tight as a drum.


Go Around button

I have a GTN 650, an AFS 5500 touchscreen EFIS and a Dynon autopilot control panel.

The current method of activating a missed approach has too many button pushes. I have to execute the Go Around on the GTN 650 for lateral tracking guidance to the MAP but ALSO engaging a vertical mode with the autopilot.

Is there a way to have ONE BUTTON to execute a Go Around then just add power like Garmin does? The Dynon HDX Manual talks about it but not a lot of specifics on how to install it or wire it.


7A Rebirthing Status Report ...kentlik


Back Seat Ventilation ...DanH PIREP

What Carl said. Build a cover for the rear stick well and run the hose to a good eyeball vent there.

No cover creates a control jam risk.


High CHT, IO540

I'm battling high CHTs on Take-OFF and Cruise. The engine is still in the break in phase (10hrs TT). Cyl #1, #2, #5 and #6 are running hot.
The plan is:

1) for cyl. #1 & #2 to cut down the standard Vans air deflectors (dams) in front
2) do the recommended baffle modification on cyl #5
3) What to do with #6 ??
-it peaks first, so I assume it's the leanest cylinder of all
-should I swap the injectors with #3 ?
-or go for a GAMI injector replacement
-or is it too early to address the problem with TT 10hrs ?

Btw, oil consumption is already stable, no adding of oil was required since last 4.5hrs.

Below is a table with CHT & EGT in cruise, full rich.


From Dynon


A tip for future builders

So got through the tab bends OK, only to mess up the match drilling. When I went to match drill them, I must have been squeezing the tabs together a bit too much and ended up pulling the lower skin out of alignment a couple of mm.

My recommendation to future builders would be to insert one of the foam ribs near the closeout tabs (avoid drilling into it) so you get the shape/distance right when you match drill them. Or make sure you use a straight edge on both the top and bottom skins to keep them properly aligned with the elevator skins as you drill.

I have a note into Vans to see what they say is the best course of action.

Any thoughts on best way to fix this?


New GRT Panel ...LJ Smith

Just about done!


RV10 engine build

I bought a IO-540-J4A5 narrow deck engine for my RV10 project. The engine was turbo charged (8.5:1 compression) in it former application but will run normally aspirated in the 10. The engine was a prop strike, (light strike if that's possible) so it must be torn down and inspected per the AD. The engine had 808hrs on it SMOH. This is the first aircraft engine I've worked on. I've built lots of automotive & diesel engines.

First impressions, these things are built like a tank, heavy like a diesel. Heavy rods, huge pistons, impressive! I see why they are capable of running at high H.P. demands for long periods. It appears I lucked up (mater of opinion) and got chromed cylinders. I like that the rings wear vs. the cylinders.

Everything will go out to be checked and inspected. I intend to go back with the standard, new rings, mains & rod bearings, and anything required by the AD. I will not be servicing any of the other rotating accessory as I will be using the EFI II system with an automotive alternator.

Questions that I've found different answers on. 1. Re-use the through bolts or replace? 2. Re-use the cylinder hold down nuts? 3. Go ahead and replace the pistons? (they're relatively cheap) 4. Chrome cylinders, how to prepare them for the new rings?

Please don't flame the new guy... I'm learning here and just looking for advice.


Jump Start My Heart

Saturday morning I was 3/4 of the way to the hangar to change the oil and rotate the tires on the Jeep (and wipe the RV-6 down) when the sim called and asked if there was any way I could do my Phenom 300 Part 91 recurrent oral and checkride starting in one hour (was scheduled for the next day). Sure. In shorts, T-shirt and running shoes I turned direct. After 290+ seat support sessions you know what's coming, so I thought I would track my heart rate again and see how it compared to the original sim-qual initial two years ago. On that check ride my watch called out 'High Heart Rate' during the single engine go around. LOL. "I've noticed your heart rate is abnormally high and you don't seem to be exercising. Is everything alright?"

Pro Tip: Turn off notifications if it's your RV's first flight (or first jet initial) <g>.

No big whoop this time around. Old hat now. The two bumps over on the right side are V1 cuts that required the use of meat servos. Crawling out you go up 20 stairs - there's 100bpm :-). Good for another year in the sim (or contract SIC if anyone needs me on occasion).

Training works, apparently. ;^)

Crazy hot and sticky in DFW this weekend. Yuck. Still need to change the oil.

click to enlarge

And ended up sleeping pretty good that evening <g>



5/6/2022.  Issue #5,564.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Grinnin' in my new RV-4

I had a friend ferry it up to VA from GA last month, and after a weekend of transition training out in Texas with Bruce Bohannon, felt confident for my first flight. That was two days ago and I haven't stopped smiling.

Thanks to all in VAF who've assisted me through the selection and purchase of this amazing little machine!


Countersinking the hinge

Sorry, had a couple of questions on the hinge ...

First, I dimpled the box and lid before I did much research on the hinge and realized I should not have dimpled the box since I was going to countersink the flush rivets.

But when I went to countersink the hinge for the box, the eyelets are in the way of the countersink cage. They're even in the way of dimple dies if I wanted to dimple it. How the **** do you get in there? Is there a special cage, like a half cage I could buy, or would I need to cut it away, or grind my precious dimple dies? Or maybe I don't have the hinge on correctly and that's what's causing the issue?

The second question I had was around dimpling and what is a normal amount of distortion. I watched Paul Dye's video on setting up the squeezer for dimpling (leave enough room where the dies meet, but can twist), but after squeezing it looks like there's a bit of distortion on the metal. Is this normal? Would you back off a bit, or tighten up?

Funny how much I'm in the dark on this stuff and getting more nervous by the day about this build, lol.

Any help is appreciated, also if you see anything that could have been better, would appreciate a good critique. thank you!


From the Mag Problem Thread

Here is the "Paschen curve" that shows how far a spark might jump in air. At say 20,000 volts a spark can jump 3 times farther at 10,000 feet than sea level. Interestingly this is only the case for atmospheric pressures. as you go higher and the curve reverses in in a vacuum the distance the spark will travel decreases.


Mothership RV-14 Canopy Gas Strut News

We recently made a change to the gas strut used in the RV-14/14A kit to a higher force version. These struts hold the tip-up canopy open when the strut is extended. In high-wind conditions, the original strut at times may not have quite enough holding strength, and customers requested a higher-strength strut.

Kits shipping now include the new struts, and the original version part is no longer available to purchase. This is an improved part with a higher holding force. The new part is a direct replacement for the original version, and owners of existing aircraft/kits with the original version may optionally purchase and install the new struts, which are available on the Van's Aircraft Web Store.


RVs in Uniform ...a selection



5/5/2022.  Issue #5,565.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

-14 Stick in a -4 ...Scott Hersha PIREP

The RV8 forward stick is identical to the RV4 front stick, and I've used the RV14 stick on my RV4. I cut off the upper part of the RV4 (same as RV8) stick and inserted the RV14 stick into the the lower cut off portion. It doesn't fit snugly, so I made a shim out of 4130 chromoly. I used a permatex product that is meant to be used in a situation like this - without the need to use any solid fastener, but I didn't trust it completely, so I also drilled holes for two #10 bolts. On both of my RV8's I've made an offset stick using the cut and weld technique, and that worked, but wasn't as elegant or quite as good ergonomically in my opinion as using the RV14 curved stick.


Thermos Mod Snorkel to FM200 ...rv8ch

I used an old thermos bottle/cup that happened to have the right size, then connected with hose. These bottles can be bought anywhere - they are really common.

My snorkel is ugly, NSFL, so only click if you want to be shocked.

What I have learned later is that I needed to make the air flow "straighter" at the exit of the snorkel for the FM200 as it only has one place that it detects air pressure. Turbulent flow at the entrance of the FM200 is a "bad thing" and can cause "big problems". This air pressure sensor has a direct impact on how much fuel is distributed, so imagine turbulence causes very low or even negative pressure. Bad.

There are a few ways to make the flow less turbulent, the best is to just make the snorkel better. I didn't do this, I used an air flow straightener at the exit of the snorkel, not shown in my pictures. I might have some pics somewhere, but can't find them now.

I've read that Van's and AFP are working together to make sure that the snorkel flows well, so there might be some helpful hints coming from them. Might be worth a call to Van's or Don at AFP to take advantage of what they have learned - which I think is very significant.

Don offered to do a flow check on my snorkel, which was really appreciated. I have not (yet) taken him up on that offer. With my air flow straightener it's working really well, despite the ugliness of my snorkel.

Good luck with your snorkel, happy to clarify anything if it can help.


-10 Door Hinges

...a few ways builders have tackled seals and hinges


Granbury, TX Flyin This Saturday

....there will be many RVs in attendance.

Check out the EAA 983 flyin this Saturday at Pecan Plantation in Pecan. Weather forecast looks good, so come join us.

more info


What is this? ... -14

I was inventorying my SB fuselage kit yesterday and found this in hardware bag 3062. I can't find any mention to it. Anyone know what it is and where it is to be used? Seems to be an air line connector of some sort.


Rudder skin wrinkle ...-12

I have a wrinkle in the lower trailing edge skin of my rudder. It has never been hit, or hit anything. The first time I saw it on the right side I thought the rudder had swung in the wind and hit the stop maybe causing the TE to travel further. I pulled the last 3 rivets and got behind the skin and straighten it out. Since then I have always used a gust lock. At that time the left side was not affected. It is now several hundred hours later and both sides are wrinkled. The rudder is stiff, I can't flex it to move the wrinkle. I can't figure out what could be causing this.



5/4/2022.  Issue #5,564.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Tornado season is here!

Hey All-

We had a tornado Friday night a couple of miles from my house here in Wichita.

No damage at my place, but stuff was really trashed a mile or so from here. people lost their homes, cars, lots of stuff. Really fortunate that nobody was killed.

Terry Shortt (RV-7) photo

So anyway, I was sure glad I got builders insurance last month.

I debated on whether it was too soon since the chances of anything happening before I move stuff to the airport seemed pretty remote. You can bet I was happy I pulled the trigger when I saw what was going on with the weather!

For you guys who are in the same boat, I suggest you at least check out your options when the cost of replacing all the bits and pieced gets uncomfortably big.  I went with Leah at Gallagher and the whole process was really easy.

Also, just an observation on the anatomy of a tornado- A mid-size cell went over my house with some small hail and heavy rain. I was watching the radar on my weather app and it showed what you would expect, green with yellow and red churn inside. Something you would look at and obviously stay the heck away from...But that wasn't the tornado cell.

The tornado cell came through about 1/2 hour later. While it was breathing in, the radar return was actually quite small. Frankly, the kind of thing that you would look at and think that you could obviously pick your way around no problem.

In fact you can see in the second picture below that people were doing just that, just like every day. My friend's kid works line crew at Jabara and took the picture. That plane had just landed and was taxiing in.

No great revelation here, just something to think about. It's easy to feel pretty bullet proof with all the forecasting technology and real time weather we have access to now, but it's not foolproof...

Pix 1 is the view from my back porch.


Request help with mag problem

Yesterday, my left Slick mag failed an inflight mag check forcing a turnback on a Pilots N Paws mission. This is an impulse coupled mag.

Runup at 1800 rpm on the ground showed no problems.
During an inflight mag check, the engine would "hiccup" every so often. At first, I thought it was a jolt from turbulence, but the frequency increased to more than once a minute. It seemed to be a split second complete interruption of power, rather that a misfire on one or more cylinders. The power interruption was so brief that no change in EGT or airspeed was noticed. Changes of the mixture lever position, switching tanks, and turning on the boost pump had no effect.

Plugs are nice and clean (properly gapped, also) and resistances check OK (two around 1300 ohms and two around 1900 ohms). The ignition cable tester showed a spark in the window, but every so often, the spark skipped a beat and then returned. Same result on all four plug leads. This is my first time using a cable tester which was bought new. I only have a half page of instructions that I downloaded. If anyone has experience with cable testers, please chime in or contact me via email.

Am borrowing a set of plugs to test with today. It's a very long shot, and I expect no change, but it's way easier than pulling the mag. After that, I'll try disconnecting the p-lead to investigate a possible switch (standard keyed Off, L, R, Start switch) problem. I'll be careful with the hot mag.

If no solution after this, I'll be pulling the mag, and trying to find someone local that can test the mag at high rpm. If that fails,I'll be sending it out.

Any hints, advice, personal experience, or suggestions will be welcomed. I'd rather not pull the mag if it's not necessary.


Update on 7/7A HS Question ...swift12

So I got it a lot better. I think the bend radius of the hs710/714 pieces was one of the issues. Also I might have bent slightly outside of the bend. I made a solid ali former with a 3mm radius. Ran it up to the bend line and there was a small gap close to the bend. I used a hardwood block and gave each one a blow which helped. It appears the bend radius are tighter on 702 and hs0001. Also hs0001 we're both at 6.8 degrees from the factory so I eased those back to 6 degrees. No matter how hard I try they don't nest perfectly all the way to the bend but do appear to pull in very close which I believe riveting will fix. I resisted unbending and rebending... just tweaking here and there.


Recent Transmit background issue

So the other day I taxied from the T-hangar across the field (towered airport) to a local FBO to have them do a compression check. All radio communications with the tower/ground controller were fine, no issues.

When I picked it up the next day and called ground to request taxi back to the T-hangars, I noticed a sort of squeal/buzzing in my headset when I keyed the mic to request taxi clearance. It wasn't super loud, but enough so that the Ground controller mentioned it to me in his reply. ODD, it wasn't there the day before.

Anyway, today I removed the cowl to check for any loose or broken connections to the alternator or plug wires since it just had the compression test done. Note: The pitch of the noise goes up and down with rpm. Anyway, I found nothing apparent in the engine area. Next I did a few transmit tests outside my hangar and noticed that it only occurs when I use the front seat push to talk button/trigger regardless of if its running or not running, BUT, transmission is perfectly clear with no noise whatsoever if I used the rear seat push to talk on the rear stick. (RV-8)

So, seems I have narrowed it down to the front stick's push to talk as a culprit, but so very odd that it showed up after picking it up from the fbo.

Sorry for the long winded explanation but what might be a good place to start looking into... wiring or ground to the front sticks connections? Is the switch on it's way out ?? I have Infinity Sticks with the trigger as the transmit.

Thank you in advance for any thoughts on how to fix it.


Dennis Rhodes Rudder Lock

Here s a rudder gust hold mechanism I built for my RV9. Uses compression springs and velcrow into fwd of the spar. Can't miss it if you plan to fly. It folds up to about 16 to 18 inches in length for storage. The triangle on the back end was possible gust lock for stick. Yes my rudder pedals have an extra plate welded to the Vans pedals to help avoid getting on the brakes.


Jvon811's RV License Plates

I've been the RV-4 guy in two states now. Just moved to Georgia about 6 months ago (Happy wife, happy life etc) and got the Plate there too!



5/3/2022.  Issue #5,563.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

RV-7 at Aero Expo in Friedrichshafen Germany ...Marcel Heijmans

I've just finished my RV-7 (PH-MNX), with a ULPower Engine (520iSA) and an Airmaster C/S prop (first flight January 26th, 2022).
I was honored that ULPower asked me to fly to Friedrichshafen to present my plane in their Booth at the Aero Expo.

Talked to a lot of RV builders and potential RV builders who liked my setup of the ULPower Engine. I also learned a ton of the technical guys of ULPower, who had some interesting improvements on my installation. It's great to work together a few days with engine experts. Only wish I knew all this before hand.

Also this was the first time a did some longer distances, flying from the Netherlands to Germany/Switzerland, was about 320nm, it took me 2.5 hours with 2600 rpm and 23" map at 5500 feet (weather was tough), cruising at 150 kts (TAS) and using 8.2 gallon/hour.
After talking to the ULPower guys on the way back, same setup, but with 2400 rpm and 24" MAP (only 3500 feet, because weather was worse) 7.8 gallon/hour. They also advised me to change the air intake, so it will pick up colder air and change the position of the pressure intake of the ECU. My goal is to reach 7 gallon/hr with 150 kts on 8000 ft.


Flying animals

Hi Everyone, I wanted to ask for information. I have heard of organizations and people donating their time to fly pets to owners or new owners. I am looking into doing something like this for (don't hate me) a cat for my wife.

As a someone who did multiple combat tours and lost good friends I understand the power an animal can bring to the healing. I have one that helped me through dark times myself.... Since retiring from the military and settling down my wife has since gone through some life changing events and had a few years now of some dark times. I was looking into getting her a special feline, problem is the breeder is located in North Dakota and I live in Alabama.

With that can someone post any websites or contacts for groups or individuals that may offer a service like this? I don't expect it to be free but would love to make this happen.

For those that maybe wondering, its a special breed of cat, they call them munchkins, crazy money for a dwarf cat but like I said sometimes the benefits are more important.


My RV Weekend ....more


Titan O-370

Q: Can anyone who has installed a Titan 370 share some of the issues you may have had in regards to doing the firewall forward? Making the engine choice on my RV-8 build in the next two months and Titan has the most HP per $$ after all the cost increases.

I just want to know what mods other than the baffling on the tapered cylinders builders have run into.



Flap pushrod Status ...cgeyman

Made the small fuselage cut for the flap pushrod- may have to adjust when all hooked up. Also finishing wingtips.


May/Jun Issue Now Online


Refreshing An Old Thread - Conduit Choices

This is a "refresh" of Alex Peterson's post in 2007 about using Tenite Butryate tubing as a wiring conduit. He did not attach pics - which I think may be helpful.

The 1/2 & 3/4" diameters, with .032" wall thickness make excellent conduit for wire runs (+ the fact that it is clear - can see everything). Very light weight: 6' x 1/2" o.d. x .032" wall thickness = 2.4 oz

It is "rigid" in the sense that it is relative straight, but can be bent, either slightly, cold or to a tighter radius when heated.

The side wall can easily be penetrated for wire inclusion at intermediate points.

Comes in 6' lengths and can be coupled with PVC rigid tube.

YMMV - But this is pretty good stuff!



5/2/2022.  Issue #5,562.
I had the pleasure of giving three rides Saturday around dinner time to some of our son's friends from college.  Pictured below L/R Melanie, Sophia and Reagan post flights.  Melanie got to see three sunsets/sunrises with some step-up climbs. They've already hinted at coming back in a few weeks and doing this again.  I would like that <g>.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.


FIRST FLIGHT: Triumphs, Trials and Tribulations ...goatflieg


Congratulations Ben

Ben Poffenberger in his RV-4 competed in Primary category at the Sebring aerobatic contest this weekend and placed 1st at his very first contest. I think Ben is also the first RV to compete this year. There are a lot of RVs out there that don't know what they are missing with the great folks that participate. Next southeast contest is in Rome, GA in two weeks.


Wallpaper Calendar for May

...Dylan Phelps photo of Bill Goeken


Fiberglassing Update ...PilotjohnS

After taking a few days off, I have started fiberglassing the wind screen fairing. I am following the excellent tips and tricks from the Osh 2021 presentations. I had visions of making a really neat layup, much like the Osh demo, but that went out the window after my first layup. I am using black tint on the first few layers so when looking from the inside thru the canopy, one would see black fiberglass. Of course, it never occurred to me to use a vinyl tape color other than black, so I am finding it hard to se the tape edge when laying down the fiberglass. It is going much slower than expected, and I am burning thru more glass than I planned.

Onward so I get upward.


Draker's Data Dump

Took a little time to plot my project's progress over time, grouped by subassembly. May be useful for people who haven't started yet, trying to guess the amount of work required for a (typical?) slow-build tip-up RV-7A. I was blessed with a greater than average amount of free time available to build this, without much delay between sub-kits.

Total hours building: 2,828 (2,358.5 home, 469.5 hangar)
Calendar days from start to finish: 1,996
Days worked: 725 (591 home, 134 hangar)
Average hours per work day: 3.9
Longest day worked: 12 hours, 19-Apr-2020, avionics wiring
Most consistent building: 19-Mar-2019 through 17-Apr-2019, worked 28 out of 30 days, Baggage floor/flap area
Longest break from building: 38 days, wait for finishing and fwf kits


Is this correct spacer?

Can someone confirm this is the correct spacer for a Sensenich 70CM6S prop?. It seems it should have lugs for each bolt rather than 2 alignment pins?


Rudder gust lock ok?

I made this gust lock. I used #10-32 bolts. I made one for each side. Does anyone see a problem that i might be missing?


Closet shelf and furnace fan ...johnbright downdraft priming table

I used a 20" closet shelf and a discarded furnace fan.


My RV Weekend


Out of Phase 1 ...acroboy

N124F is out of Phase 1 and is now free to roam (first flight 2/7/2022). One cross country McKinney TX to Booneville AR. Several flights now with my son. Awesome! Kit 1705 only took me 32 years to complete. (Lots of work, family, and other airplanes required my time )

ECI Titan (I)OX-360
AFP Fuel Injection
Catto 3-Blade
Dynon Skyview (classic)
Dynon 2-axis autopilot
MGL-V6 Comm
Fly LEDs lighting
Oregon Aero leather seats (VERY comfy)

Cruises 162kts TAS, 8500ft, 55% power, 6.5 gal/hr. I can go faster and burn more gas, but why bother? Nice aerobatic performance, though not as effortless as my Pitts was. I can carry a 220lb passenger with full fuel which is better than I feared.



4/29/2022.  Issue #5,561.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV=filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

from the archives.  dr


RV-6 Brake hydraulic reservoir

Hello, looking to replace my gasket for my RV-6 hydraulic brake fluid reservoir. Can't find the make of the reservoir. And also would appreciate a link where I can purchase the gasket. I understand I can most likely just make one.
Thanks in advance


Exhaust Spring Cut-Thru

While doing Annual Condition Inspection I found a crack in the exhaust exit end of the muffler. I advertised on VAF classified thread for a used muffler and got several responses. I ended up buying a complete exhaust system with only 70TT and decided to replace the muffler and also the exhaust stacks. Several of my exhaust stacks exhibited extreme wear on the spring hooks. This condition is not easily noticed because a bead of high-temp RTV is placed over the spring loops to prevent vibration. I installed Stainless Steel springs early-on when the original springs started breaking. The springs themselves don't show much wear. My guess is the springs are harder material than the muffler hooks. My exhaust has 750TT.


Which one?

The aft mount trays, the steel box from Odyssey (via Vans), or the FW mount used with the 14? The 14'ers were nice enough to share their plans for FW mount. I need weight forward. It was one of the easier "incorporations" into my build. Added bonus = Battery can be lifted up or forward for removal. No additional improvisation for battery removal is needed (hopefully).


On Kitplanes Now...


Gascolator / sump screen?

Hi all - I couldn't find a part number on this guy but wondering if anyone recognizes it and whether or not it is supposed to have a screen inside it? Mine does not.


RV-14 Temporary Seats ...Luke D @ Classic Aero

As I mentioned a few weeks ago, we decided to offer temporary seats for customers who needed something to sit on right away until their final seats could be completed. They are now in stock.

Side Note: We understand the frustrations that long lead times can cause for our customer, and we've been working hard to reduce them. Last summer we hired two new employees to do cut out and sewing, and they are coming up to speed very well.

We are now able to ship more orders per month than we have in the past, and we are slowly starting to reduce the lead times. We are down from a high of 12 months to 11. Hopefully this will continue until we are back to a more normal schedule.

Please contact us if you have any questions.



4/28/2022.  Issue #5,560.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

New First Flights Reported on the Mothership


Baffle Update: agent4573

Did round 3 on baffle sealing today. Used my yet to be installed led strip lights to fill the plenum. Found a few small pinholes around the inter cylinder baffles, and a large gap on the #4 taper fin cylinder baffles. Sealed them all up with RTV. Laid up a glass angle for the temp gauge mount. I ordered a bulb type mechanical water temp gauge. Plan is to use glass/epoxy mount with fiberfrax and aluminum tape and mount the bulb in an adel clamp held in place on a long stainless bolt. It seemed slightly easier than what dan recommended because I don't have to find a 5 volt source and it has a built in gauge. I'll "calibrate" it in boiling water to see how off it is before the install. Should have more flight test data Thursday evening.


What wheel bearings go in my main gear wheels?

I put my Cleveland main gear wheels on my RV-6A 22 years ago. They came with my kit from Van's. I failed to note what bearings were specified for that wheel. I could pull the bearings out and look at them, but thought I would ask, "Does anybody know?"


F721 canopy decks. How to rivet?!

Hi everyone,

I've riveted on my canopy decks, all but the last few rivets circled in the photo are set. Access is too tight for even my small tungsten bucking bar to the last few. Anybody have any good ideas to avoid going cherry max?


Piston head borescope question

Been flying for 7 years and have about 350hrs on the engine, which was a brand new Lycoming YIO-360-M1B purchased through Van's. I've done the condition inspection each year, following a very detailed and thorough checklist.
I purchased a USB camera and for the first time was able to snap some pics of my piston heads.

I don't really know what I'm looking at here, so looking for some advice and comments on whether the discoloration and build-up is normal. Thanks!  --->


Van's RV 10, the little plane that can!

Just finished a flight from 9A0 (Lumkin County Ga) that included stops and layovers at:

KHOT (Hot Springs Ar) KCWC (Wichita Falls Tx) KSAF (Santa Fe Nm)
KIFP (Laughlin/Bullhead Az) KPRB (Paso Robles Ca) KWJF (Lancaster Ca)
KOKB (Oceanside Ca) KDNA (Dona Ana Nm) KTKI (McKinney Tx) and finally back to 9A0.

In this trip we had days with blue sky, ones with winds 40-50 knots (With a take off in head winds at those speeds), mountain flying, IFR flights, a departure from an airport with a 6400 feet DA at gross weight (still got 600 FPM climb out) days with light to moderate chops over terrain, and finally a 30 plus knot tail wind on the final flight back home (ground speed of 196 knots). Other than a flight in icing conditions (Pass on that) this was the little plane that handled it all and handled it so well. It is definitely the little plane that can. All while burning 11 GPH or less.

During my 4.5 years of building this plane I would hit those points wondering if it was worth the time, sacrifice, and frustration. After this trip, the answer is most definitely YES. So for those still building, hang in there because once you are done you have a plane that stands alone in its class. Sorry Cirrus drivers...


Ground speed seems too low?

I am noticing that I have poor ground speed Karma, I wonder if something is defective?



4/27/2022.  Issue #5,559.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

RV-3B Update...David Paule

I decided to install the stainless steel fuel line from the firewall to the gascolator, only to find that it didn't come close to fitting. That was one of the parts I'd made a pattern for while the dummy acrylic firewall was in place. In theory it should fit, but in practice it doesn't. And that my friends, is the difference between theory and practice. However, other things which I fit the same way, fit just fine. It's only this one part.

Incidentally, if you haven't already installed the tiny screws for the tube fittings on an Andair device, do it before you install the device. You'll be happier. I removed the gascolator, put in the screws and reinstalled it. Andair says to stake the screws and I didn't do that - I used Permatex Threadlocker Blue instead.

You may have heard that there's not much room between an RV-3 firewall and the engine. That's entirely correct.

David Howe's cowl tool is virtually essential for aligning the cowl. Wirejock, aka Larry Larson, made the necessary disc to replace the spinner. I shortened the length of the tool because my shop is too small for its full length. Here, you can see the full length tool without the disc. I later installed three length adjustment bolts in the empty hub holes - these control the cowl position so that the prop and spinner will fit (I have not ordered these yet).



Good evening all!
Just weighed my RV7A for upcoming DAR inspection. Standard set up, IO-360 M1B, Hartzell 2 blade constant speed. Rt.wheel 431, Lt. wheel 440, nose 284. Empty CG pretty basic but how do I figure most forward CG, most aft CG?


Mold trick

I have some down time while parts cure for the plenum inlets, so I decided to try and fab a plenum for the oil cooler air supply. How to fab a twisted and turned 4" tube?
I took a 4" closed cell foam backer rod. Basically a pool noodle. Sliced pieces off. One end is cut 30*, one end 90*.
Take the slices and arrange them by stacking and rotating till the mold takes shape. Draw a line on one side and two lines on the opposite side. Number them. Spray ends with 3M 77. Reassemble lining up the alignment lines. Remove, sand to shape and layup the glass. Kinda fun and might just work.


It's the ears I tell you

So I had a minor medical issue a little while back, nothing serious and nothing that would prevent me from passing a medical (double ear infections that took 3 weeks to get cleared up), but I've noticed that my tolerance for the bumps is way way down. Was up the other day on a reasonably calm day and was glad I had the sick sack in my pocket. It was not an enjoyable flight. Any advice in regaining I am ability to tolerate the bumps? Or is it just time in the air and exposure to train my brain that everything's OK?


Be anal about sealing any leaks. ...BillL baffle PIREP

Here is some test data on my homemade plenum, James cowl, M1B stock RV7 with the exit fairing at firewall, and 4-into-exhaust pipe. I wrapped every square inch of fin that was covered by the stock baffles, plus on the barrel fins up the 1.5 inch above the crank plane. My stock intersection baffle between the cylinders on each side were huge leakers. They will fool you - my 10 friend said his were sealed well, and he is stickler, but when illuminated it showed it was not. So if it can happen to him . . .beware and careful there.

My static reference was to the static port. I have lots of data from PH I but this is one for comparison to DanH's standard test plan. And, is after I opened up my to-of-barrel wrap gap and added some flow entry straighteners. There are chutes for the front of #1 and back of #3 where the fin length goes to zero at the crank plane.

The oil cooler is stock little Niagara, but has shutters. Test data was the same with shutters open or closed.

I might call this installation extremely sealed, but not extremely restricted.

The 1/4" gap you showed between the heads, I still have them.

IO375 - -is is that a tapered fin barrel? Do you have picts of how you attached the baffles showing under the plenum?

Edit01: I looked at your website - you are using SDS Electronic ignition - to check it you could set mix, cruise, WOT, 2500 rpm, then after oil temp and speed is stabilized, just retard the timing 0.5 deg at a time and wait 2 min and watch the KIAS, do this until the speed drops. Speed reacts pretty fast to power change, CHT takes a few more minutes. A test cell would be 10 min, so just do the timing and stop when you see the speed drop a knot. Then wait to plot the CHT. This will ensure the timing is "correct" and is/not part of the issue. I think it is not the primary cause and until you can show .5 in-h2o in the lower cowl I would not look at timing at all.


The RV grin continues

I just bought an RV-8 from a couple of super gentlemen in the DC area and ferried it back to Las Vegas just a couple of weeks ago. The XC back was fantastic, though challenging, but the grin never stopped. I took my wife up for the first time today. She loved it. I guess I get to keep it now.


Snorkel, Frankensnorkel, Horz Induction B&C

Reading lots of posts about snorkel modification, cutting, glassing etc. All done to fit the B&C starter.

My question
1) Is this all custom due to all the variations of engine, FI set up, etc? Could it be produced semi custom and made to fit most applications?
2) Seems like a lot of interest in B&C + Horz induction, why has no one made an aftermarket snorkel?
3) Anyone done a flow test of the snorkel before and after modifying?

I'm building an 8A, smooth cowl, M1B with AFP FI. Given thought to swapping the supplied lightweight skytech starter with B&C.



4/26/2022.  Issue #5,558.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

'Back Country' RV-10 ...Mconner7 PIREP

I bought my -10 from a guy that liked back country flying. He used 600x6 mains and adapted the wheel pants accordingly. I am based on a grass field in Florida that is often soft in summer and have never had trouble.

I am attaching a picture of my -10 at Sulphur Creek, ID. (ID74). The takeoff from this gravel runway was at 8500' DA with two souls and 1/2 fuel. I estimate my ground roll was 1300'.


Bench Power Supply wiring

Friend RV'r loaned me his power supply, now to hook it up.

My plan is to input + on input side if master, - on the battery's negative post. MY WEAKEST LINK skill is Electric/Electronic. Is this ok/correct ? I have a Piper type plug installed too. Is there a problem using it to power up the panel via the 13.8 max output power supply? Time to upgrade my EFIS, and I know I'll struggle with the wiring, hence needing more than ship's battery.


Canopy Install PIREP ...543TB

Don't overthink it too much. I used a clip but tried to minimize the pressure on the plexi. I could not get both sides to match, but a lot of that will be hidden by the fiberglass work on the transition.


More from 'My RV Weekend' This Past Weekend

Weather was perfect for flying, so my son and I flew up to Columbia, CA to camp and see the gold rush town. On the flight back today, we diverted over Yosemite.



New builder with VS-705 VStab nose rib issue

Hi all- I'm finally starting the tail build of my RV-14A. A few hours in and I already have a question for the VAF hive mind!

I'm having issues fitting the VS-705 nose rib inside the skin. It's the front part of the rib (past the notch in the flange) that's causing problems. It looks like this isn't an uncommon issue. Per some other posts on the topic I tried fluting the front of the rib to bring the front flanges in, but it's not enough.

I did manage to get everything clecoed together but I sort of had to manhandle things into place and ended up scratching up the inside of the skin quite a bit. I'm not too worried about that- I'm planning on priming and will make sure I sand/scotchbrite those scratches out. I'm primarily concerned about stresses on the skin where it wraps around the end of the rib if I build as-is.

So a couple of questions- should I build on? Or modify the rib? I'm leaning towards modifying it since I don't want to feel like I'm taking shortcuts this early in the build... Does anyone know a source for long reach fluting pliers? I think the fluting will work but my Avery pliers don't reach very far (the flutes are a bit short of the tooling hole in the rib). Or if anyone else can recommend a way to bring the thickness of the web in at the front of the rib I'm open to ideas.

Thanks in advance.


Almost Paint Ready

Spent the weekend getting my BMW R90S ready for sale on Bring-a-Trailer. So, did the sanding of the second primer surfacer application this morning and filled minor pinholes and small scratches that were left from first primer surfacer app.

Wingtips will be ready for paint tomorrow, temperature and wind permitting. Then, Wed I will attach all the nut plates and lights. Depending on the quality of my painting, I will decide whether to cut and buff the paint.


Oil Cooler Bolt Interference Solutions ...AdamB RV-10

That's exactly what I did. Just for that one bolt I didn'tuse a spacer and attached it via the inner flange only.


Alternate Pitot Static Source ...some ideas



4/25/2022.  Issue #5,557.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

My RV Weekend ...various folks chiming in


Is this normal 7 Horizontal stab front spar

Hi. Building the horizontal stab front spar.

small gaps either side of the bends between the 714/710 and 702. will these pull up when riveted?...it seems that the hs0001 parts both have small bends each side of the factory bends across the length of the part which doesnt help the problem. maybe its because the 710/714 parts are thicker so even though i was very careful to get the bends in the right place i think their radius is more gentle than the 702 and hs0001 parts. the 702 bend sits hard on the 710/714 bends with the small gap either side. all parts are 6 degrees. anyone else looked this closely or seen this?
all ok? I cant see how i could rectify it without mucking around with the 710/714 bends and possibly making a mess.

build on and trust the rivets will pull them together? the pic shows a small gap on the left side of the bend...hard to photo...all four joints look the same...cheers.


Unknown Component

I was looking at a -7A QB and noticed this component bolted to the floor of the fuselage around the passenger's feet area. The component protrudes through the floor and can be seen from under the fuselage with a rod end attached. What is this?


Help - Windscreen Intimidation!

Well, this is the last major step in my RV-7 build and it seems I've been on my heels a bit. After finally jumping all in yesterday and drilling the windscreen, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be (seems like most of this ~5-year build has been like that).

You can see from my pictures I have about 1/2" to 5/8" separation/outward bow of the plexi from the fuselage on the lower sides. I think this is somewhat normal.

Can someone point me to a picture or provide a description of how they used a clip to pull this in tight? Seems like a lot of stress will be concentrated in this area if I pull it in tight; but I need to pull it in, right? Can this be re-shaped with a heat gun? Maybe this is not a big deal to simply pull it in tight. Edges are finish-sanded smoothly.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!


7A Rebirthing Update ...kentlik

Right wing skinned


Not RV But a Milestone

This may have never happened without the RV background...

Finally checked the box on first SIC contract work in the Phenom 300 this past Friday flying someone or something somewhere (and maybe back or not). We might be in the grab below (or not). Felt strange not having a major malfunction every 3 minutes and it took awhile to get used to the blue stuff outside the window (maybe on one of the legs - maybe not).



s4/22/2022.  Issue #5,556.
  Bill (RV-8) recently asked Randy (RV-8), Ross (RV-6) and me (RV-6) to fly with Stan (Globe Swift) in a diamond formation pass a half mile behind him over the ground breaking ceremony of the Medal of Honor Museum in Gainesville, TX.  News story.  Thursday was the day.  Bill would be leading us in at the controls of the L-26B Ike's Bird.  Everything went off swell - the TOT coordinated with the KGLE airport manger via handheld there on the ground.  45* diamond pass around the tent where the gold plated shovel did its duty the previous minute.  Ground track full size.  Bumpy, hot, humid and a tired neck after an hour on the wing as #2, but very satisfying. 
  The city of Gainesville has hosted 56 of the 74 living Medal of Honor recipients.  Building the RV 20 years ago I would have said you were crazy if you told me I'd have the chance to do stuff like this.  Five planes, three of which were RVs.
  What an honor to get to participate in this ceremony!  God Bless America and those who defend her!
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Bet you can guess where the tent was.


Page 45A-04 Rev 3 ...RV-12 subforum

Q: This is the current revision. In step 3 it says "Route P156 down through the F-1202 panel base..." This wire ultimately connects to the Silent Hektik (in my case, I don't have the newer one) which is on the firewall. Why wouldn't it simply pass through the firewall grommet rather than going down below? Any help is appreciated. I'm really frustrated with this wiring.

A: The P761 is the little yellow wire 12V energized by the Master to the bring the voltage reg alive. On your drawing 45A-04 it shows routed for the under panel regulator location.
Here is an earlier 45A-06 Rev 0 plan showing that wire to the regulator located on the firewall shelf. The changes to the regulator location are causing confusion for sure.

Also see sheet 46-19 Rev. 4 relating to changes due to the B&C regulator which is current.
The yellow regulator control wire is no longer used. Instead, they are showing a jumper between pin 4 and pin 6 on the B&C regulator. There has been controversy in these forums about this because with the jumper installed turning off the Master does not shut down the VR.


Build Update: Roll Servo / Wingtips ...rockitdoc

Finally, figured it out. Thanks. Easy once you know how. Right? Assembled the roll servo in the right wing today. Also worked on the wingtips getting the webs installed and bodywork done.


Keeping Harness Away from Stuff

My wire harness can touch the aileron actuation pushrod in the right wing. Not much slack in the harness to allow use of an Adel clamp on the main spar. What have you guys done to keep the wires away from movable objects like this?

Is there an 'extended' Adel clamp I should know about?


Weldments ...Bill E RV-4 PIREP

The "weldments" are a steel fitting/corner joint that connect the aluminum longerons to the firewall and engine mount structure. The first generation weldments were a split type, the newer are more of a pocket design. Some older ones develop cracks, and can be modified with a repair/upgrade. the newer style are much more durable and have been standard in the kits for many years now. Long/Short gear is a long standing debate, mine is long because that was standard when I built mine. I've flown both, and wouldn't let it be a deal breaker. If the plane has a long prop (72-74), you will need to watch your deck angle if hard bounce or unusual tail high situation. The picture attached is a "new style longeron weldment" on mine. They are located bottom and top corners of the firewall about where your heels rest .



4/21/2022.  Issue #5,555.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Jack's first flight in the 14A

"Took the middle son for his first flight in the 14A. Flew from the LA area to Harris Ranch in Central California..."



I am rigging my RV6 ailerons and have been unable to achieve more than 29-30 degrees nose up.
Admittedly this angle is within allowable limits of 25-32 degrees for TE Up aileron, but I believe that one should be able to achieve the maximum limit even if one doesn't use it all.

After much hair tearing I have found that the outboard hinge lower AN3 aileron attachment bolt is stopping aileron travel at approx 29-30 degrees. The bolt stops against the outboard aileron hinge bracket, and I may be able to file a small blend out in this fitting to compensate.

My question is: Has anybody else encountered this problem? If so what did you do about it.

Of course this may be a tolerance build up issue, e.g. My fittings may be slightly "oversize". However I imagine there are many RV's where the bolt head must be very close to fouling at full aileron travel. Like all issues the more of us that know about it the better off we shall all be.

Graham in New Zealand



It's back to one piece and actually fits. Now I can cut the servo flange and fit the alternate air door. What a chore. This thing was at least 1/2" too long.


New Speed mod for RV10 (NOT)

I was playing taxi service last week by flying down to KSAV (Savannah, GA) to pick up my son in order for him to be home mid-week to coach my grandson's baseball game. (I know, first world problem...) I made a nice landing runway 19 at KSAV and taxied over to SheltAir to pick up my son. There was a Delta flight holding short for me to land so I didn't dawdle on the runway but also wasn't a high speed taxi either. I felt a few bumps but attributed it to the commercial jets coming and going, fast braking, etc that had the runway less than smooth. In fact, rwy 19 had been notamed out of service earlier in the day as they were doing some maintenance on the runway.

After exiting the runway and the first Delta jet departed, I heard ground trying to find an airport service truck to go out to the runway to pickup a cone on 19??? I hadn't seen a cone but didn't impact me so just continued on to Sheltair. When I parked at SheltAir, the line guys immediately started asking about the nose wheel pant.... what happened, when it happened, sharing that a local Cirrus had the same problem, etc. I had no clue what they were talking about until I got everything shut down and stepped out to have a look. This is what I saw....


More aileron deflection to the right side

I have a 20 year old 1300 hours flight time used RV6A and I noticed, that the aileron deflection is one inch more to the right side than to left.
When the stick is in the middle position, the aileron are aligned.

Can this be a problem ?


Oil drain

So today, I was puttering around at the hangar with my RV-7A that I've had for less than a year. It had a condition inspection and oil change just before I bought it plus a pre-buy by a different person. Due to a number of reasons, I've only flown it 40 hours or so in the 10 months I've had it.

So today, I looked down below the exhaust and saw a small oil drip on the floor. "Hmm, this is the first drip I've seen from this plane." I got a light and looked up at the drain plug and quick drain and saw it leaking as in the attached photo. Now, I'm no A&P but that safety wire doesn't look like the ones on the how-to YouTube videos or even the few that I've done. As funky as it is, I'm glad it kept the drain plug from coming all the way out. That would have been a bad day.
Attached Thumbnails


Cowl/fiberfrax modification

There are some areas on the lower cowl on my RV6 build that are pretty close to the exhaust pipes. I would like to protect these areas with 1/8" fiberfrax and the aluminum self adhesive cowl shield I got from Vans. Question for those who have done this - what did you use, if anything, to attach the fiberfrax to the cowl? My cowl surface is still unprotected. My plan is to seal it with bilge paint from my local boating shop. I've tried it on the inside of my wheel pants (old kit), and it seals very well, and is made to protect the fiberglass bilge area of a boat from oil, fuel, hydraulic fluids, etc. Should the fiberfrax/aluminum shield be put on over this bilge treatment, or before?
I'm unsure what would stick to fiberfrax, or if being held down by the adhesive back aluminum is enough.



First tentative steps into LAA style maintenance

Yesterday helped out the legends / experts who were fixing our nose wheel spat. I was tasked with the coffee. I did alright.


Cad Plated / Stainless Hinges ...Andy Miller

We tapped the hinges for securing screws, cad plated and then made stainless cover plates..

Hinges were baked after plating to de-embrittle


Wood on Panel ...PIREP

I have experience with this type of thing and wished I didn't.
Holy Batman does it turn into a problem or WHAT????
I regret the whole process. As others have said get some plastic or anything BUT veneered wood
My thoughts and cost to get rid of it.



4/20/2022.  Issue #5,554.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Planning the Great Escape

Planning the extraction of the project from a heated, comfy walkout basement. The fuselage rests on a dolly supported by a triplet of 8" urethane casters which turn and translate easily. Door removal is likely if the engine is mounted.


RV-14A First Flight N421S

Ordered the first kit December 2019. Some 1770 hours of construction later, had the airworthiness inspection with the DAR April 13, 2022.

First Flight April 15, 2022. Only minor squawks such as the autopilot was very sensitive and has since been tuned. Great Flying bird!

Thought I would share this with those that begin to think the process will never be complete.


Sulfur deposits on exhaust valve?

Soooo... having a borescope is a gift and a curse at the same time.

Would this yellowish-greenish area on the valve be sulfur deposits? It shows up on #3 and 4 but not 1 or 2. Also only shows up inside exhaust passage and not on the face of the valve.

Anyone know if this is an issue? I'm guessing not but I don't know what I don't know. Thanks!


Jumping in: RV-14 in Boise, Idaho Area

New to the forum, First time RV builder, 2nd airplane build. I finished and have been flying a Kitfox S7 for about 3 years now (1000hrs on the tach). ABSOLUTELY love that plane but I also love to build and need a new project.

Looking forward to learning as much as I can here. Working with Van's on getting my ordered placed this week and potentially a second factory visit (WX sucks this week in Aurora)

I'm wondering if anyone is in the the general Boise, Idaho area with a 14 that would be willing to let me sit in/walk around their plane, to solidify my decision. There is still a part of me that has the 7 in mind but I'm 90% certain the 14 is for me. That said its been 4 years since my first factory visit.


My RV Weekend ....new entry

Easter weekend trip to see mom in Sebring.


RVs in Uniform

Hi everyone - My name is Hal Bryan, and I'm EAA's managing editor here in Oshkosh. Long time lurker, and all that, and someone who is lucky enough to fly our flying club's RV-6A from time to time.

Anyway, we're looking at a future story for Sport Aviation magazine, and need some help. As you can guess by the subject line, we're looking for RVs painted in military schemes. In this case, though, our focus will be on those airplanes that replicate the paint scheme of a particular airplane, and/or that specifically honor a pilot or squadron - as opposed to schemes with general military overtones.

We have a file started, but we'd love to find more. If your airplane fits the bill, or you know one that does, would you send us a note at editorial at eaa.org?

Thanks in advance!



RV6 Panel

Here's my old school panel. 180 hp// fixed pitch .Super light.I love it.


100% baro alt fail on perf report

I did about 30 minutes in and around the local airport to check out new GRT sport EX EFIS install which is now providing encoder duties to my microair transponder over serial connection. On the microair it's showing the correct pressure alt on reporting mode. The perf report showed no baro alt, I'm at a loss for what if could be. I am getting addb out using a GDL-82 which worked perfectly with my previous dynon d60..


Panel switch for dual Odyssey system

Can anyone ID the battery switch (right of LS plasma switches) for my dual Odyssey batteries? I need a replacement.


Model Decided

After our trip to Sun N Fun we have decided on our model. We checked out the Velocity XL and the Vans RV-10 and RV-14. While the mission is typically 2 adults and baggage I'm a big guy by all specifications. 6'6" 350lbs. The Velocity fit as long as I reclined the seat and didn't shut the door. It had the exact same feeling of me squeezing into a Porsche at Track Experience. I could do it as long as I didn't need to wear a helmet. The RV-14 was the easiest to get into due to the flip up canopy but with the seat all the way back my knees were still hitting the panel and the control stick was bumping on nose up. The RV-10 was difficult to get into but was a great fit once inside. Looking at the setup I think some modifications can be made to make getting in and out a little easier. It would involve setting the rails back about 3-4 more inches so that the seat could slide back for getting in and out of it.

Next step is a shop build so I have a proper place to work, tools and empennage kit purchase. Oh and solving my budget issue. All the little things.


Aileron rib flange

I'm working on my ailerons now and recently riveted the top skin to the spar. After doing the left one, I noticed a distinct bulge between the spar and the first rivet in the middle nose rib that corresponds to the edge of the nose rib flange. I then took a look at the right aileron and noticed the exact same thing. Since I've already blind-riveted the spar to the ribs (or the skin to the spar in the case of the left aileron), I don't want to take this apart now, so I realize little can be done at this point. I buffed out the left nose skin as much as I dared to try to smooth it out and can probably live with it as is.

Just curious if anyone else seen this faceted edge in the ailerons? I certainly couldn't see this while the nose skin was cleco'd to the spar. It only appeared after the pieces were riveted together.


Help: Spar Bending Tool

Hello all,

I need to smooth out the ski jump on the upper rear spar of my RV8. I tried to order the spar bending tool from Vans but the tool was checked out by another builder for the last 3 months. I don't think the tool will be returned to Vans any time soon.

Does anyone have the homemade spar bending tool I borrow? I'll pay for the shipping cost.

If you created a similar tool before, can you post a picture of it?

Thank you,

The tool should looks something like this.



4/19/2022.  Issue #5,553.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

RV Grin: Mary Ryan ...my niece.  dr

I had the pleasure of giving my niece her first RV ride Monday morning.  One of the sweetest people you could ever meet.


Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft Course - May 11-13, 2022 ...g3xpert

Greetings VAF!

Once again the Aircraft Electronics Association will be hosting an Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft course, on May 11-13, 2022, at their headquarters in Lee's Summit, MO (Kansas City Suburb). For complete details and registration information, please visit the AEA Course Website.

This has been a popular training opportunity that includes hands-on wiring and avionics installation fundamentals, heavily focused on the Garmin G3X Touch system. Many VAF members have attended this course in the past! It is a 3-day course at a registration cost of $499. There are a limited number of spots available and space fills quick!

Let us know if you have any questions!


Dayton Ohio to the Bahamas ...Gyrodoug

13 flights.
17 hours total.
2534 miles.

Weather delays and detours in St. Simon Island, Ft. Pierce, FL, Ashville, NC etc. Stayed in Treasure Cay. We also saw North Eleuthera - Spanish Cay during a day trip.

Best trip ever!


-9 Status Report ...GeoffP in Australia

Spent most of the Easter Weekend eating chocolate and riveting the forward fuselage together.


Surface Treatment For Steel ...DanH

Brain trust question

The strips in the photo are the steel edges for the lip and apron on an 8 ft sheet metal brake. Painting them is probably not going to be satisfactory in the long term, as it will probably chip. So how can I protect them from rust?

Anyone care to suggest their favorite surface treatment, conversion coating, etc? I have all the usual spray on rust preventatives. I'm looking for something like passivation and black oxide treatments for the home shop.


Circuit Breaker Orientation? Line - Load

Does the line - load matter on circuit breakers in a 12v DC application?

All I've ever read or seen is the line side connects to the bus bar - but that's always been in an AC application.

If I emplace the circuit breaker with the line side connected to the bus bar, the amp rating on the stem is oriented upside down.

Why does line - load matter in a DC application?


More from This Week's 'My RV Weekend'



4/18/2022.  Issue #5,552.
  Hope you, your family and friends had a nice Easter weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

7A Update ...Draker

2022-04-13: Interior installed. Excellent quality seats and carpet by Flightline Interiors.


3D Printed Canopy Strut Lock (-12)

I decided to upgrade my PVC pipe version of a canopy strut lock to 3D printed item. 3D printed version has a much better fit and I added a key ring tab to attach a Remove Before Flight flag.

The printable STL file will be available on Thingverse.com and Printabales.com shortly, along with some other RV-12 3D parts I created.

John Salak
RV-12 N896HS


Instrument panel visual distance

So, I'm at SNF checking out the Dynon glass. My current plan is to stack 2 of the HDX800's for my EFIS and map functions with round ASI and ALT on either side as backups. The font size on the 7" displays is a bit on the smallish side (vs the 10" display) - but that of course depends on how far your Mark 1's are from the screen. SO... I need someone to go sit in their -8 and measure from the bridge of their nose to a point about 5" below the glare shield as I have full size pix of the 7" and 10" displays that I can then compare. Capischi?

This is just a preliminary run at what I'm shooting for.


248 kts airspeed??

While descending from altitude, the EFIS stall warning went off, the airspeed showed 250kts and the wind speed showed 198kts while GPS ground speed and the analog ASI were normal (see pics). Glad I had the analog gauge and GPS to reassure me something terrible wasn't happening. Jonathon at AFS did a great job of analyzing the logs which clearly indicated a static system blockage in the tubing branch going out the wing to the AHARS. Water in that tube froze at altitude while the tubes going to the analog gauge were clear.

So my question is: what are some options on keeping the RV-14 static system clear of moisture? My old Cessna had a sump bottle near the static port but I'm not sure that would have helped in this case.


David Paule -3B Update

The small weld issue mentioned above is an incomplete weld. It had the appearance of a crack but wasn't, exactly.
I'm an old aerospace engineer and have done many crack propagation analyses, and felt it needed to be repaired.
Checked with my certified airplane's AI, who said to repair it. So did my mentor, another engineer, and Van's support. Actually Support said that this area might crack anyway at some point, repaired or not, but that it would be better to repair it.

It's at the top of the right landing gear socket and is in that red circle.


Dog Muff Review

I am amazed how well these worked. Our mini Weiner dog was asleep within 10-15min. He was very comfortable with them and did not try to shake them off. It does require a little effort to keep over ear canals when he moves around.
Product is 4 Paws Aviation. $50 on Amazon. Makes travel with dog easy and calming. At least I think so.


Fuel PSI High alert !! Again. ... Lukla -12

My Fuel Psi is fluctuating again in my Rv 12 Dynon HDX. it was not stable since new. I added Capacitor for filter and worked for while now back to fluctuating .  there is constant flow I verified with actual mechanical psi gauge.  If any one of you had this issue and you fixed it!!!
Please let me know what should I do ... No Opinion..... No guessing Please....


Panel Shown ...oscaroviedo


Canopy Progress ...PaulvS

It's already autumn now but some days have been warm enough to work on the canopy plexiglas.

I used the air cutoff tool to initially trim off the skirts and found it difficult to control accurately and see the cut line clearly due to the safety guard. If the disc slips it can quickly do damage. The results were much better when I purchased a Ryobi cordless cutoff tool. The tool design makes it much easier to control and the speed is fully variable from 0 to 20,000 RPM. It should be useful later on also when fitting the cowling.

The plexi is now clamped to the canopy frame, which is sitting on some timber boards to make it easy to clamp. The rubber backed carpet strips prevent the spring clamps from slipping of the tubes. I decided to use the Vans rivet method of attaching the plexi and hopefully there won't be any cracking!


Update on Wheel Pant Repair/Refurbish ...MacCol

As it turns out (discovered while stripping the finish) it looks like these wheel pants were gel coated rather than painted. When I finish the fiberglass repair, should I have them painted or re-gel coated?


My RV Weekend ....various folks checking in.



4/15/2022.  Issue #5,551.
  Susie's sister is spending Easter weekend with us, so I'm hoping to be able to give her a spin around the area in the family RV-6.  The weather looks promising.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

RV Grin ...Larry Vandeventer

My wife's first flight in our new (to us) RV6A. She says we can keep it!


100 year old Birthday Party ...Taltruda

Last year, I delivered a -8 from St Louis to New Jersey for a guy. When I landed in NJ, I met his 99 year old hangar mate. I took the guy for a ride (pic in the yellow plane) and told him if he makes 100. I'm coming out for it! We'll he made it, so I jumped in my -4 and flew from Las Vegas to NJ and back for it! Only stayed in NJ for a day but I think I made his day! He built 6 planes, including a RV-6 that he still has. Although he doesn't fly solo anymore, he does get in the air and still flies great! Still drives, sharp as a tack!

Here's the stats.. 12.55 hours eastbound, 15.68 hours westbound. Highest ground speed was 211 knots in level flight. Longest leg was 4:29 made possible by going to 17,500 and leaning for 5.8 GPH. I only have the original 32 gallon tanks, and I landed with 4 gallons (legal 30 minutes reserve) Landed at Leadville, bought the tee shirt and got the certificate. Battled the 42 knot winds in Arizona and Nevada (42 knots on the ground, 60 to 70 knots airborne). These are such capable planes!


Innstalled avionics wire bundles- ezee-peezee ...Terry Shortt

Put my main avionics bundle in the plane today. I don't know why people think this is such a big deal. It only took like a minute.

Haven't opps checked it yet though <g>


No Airspeed and altitude ...FinnFlyer

Had an interesting flight this early evening.

Due to wildlife (deer, turkeys and other birds) I keep my eyes outside during takeoff.

When above tree level I looked at ASI. Zero!

Then a look at altitude. None.

This was my second flight with a 60 lbs concrete bag in the baggage area, so feel was still a bit unfamiliar. Fortunately I had GPS speed and altitude.

By the time I was ready to land, herds of deer had decided to start grazing on the runway. Coming in for touchdown they stood there just looking at me.

Fortunately I didn't come in all that hot and was able to slow down and avoid the deer.

Inspection of static ports revealed that both were clogged. I had no idea that mud daubers (or whatever they were) were able to get into such tiny holes and block them with their mud.

I though that a static bypass valve in the cockpit were only for IFR (icing). Now I'm considering adding at least a Tee with a plug in the static line.

Meanwhile I'm adding inspection of static ports to my preflight routine.


Muffler Crack...Jim Stricker -12

I'm doing Annual Condition Inspection now and found a crack in the muffler where the exit exhaust tube is welded on. Looks like vibration induced metal fatigue from long cantilever exhaust tube. TT=750. Muffler is in back of car and headed for local TIG welding shop...


DIY ScotchBrite Floor Deburring "Grinder" ...HFS

This tool gets used for smoothing the edges of a lot more sheet metal parts than just those airplane related.

2 - 6 x 2 ScotchBrite wheels. 1 - Medium & 1 - Fine

Regular on/off switch as well as a momentary foot control - for those "mini" jobs.

A polishing wheel (resting in pocket in frame) can be installed when shining up stainless screws, etc.

3/4 HP x 3450 rpm motor, geared down to 1700 arbor speed (already had motor on hand, o/w would have used 1725 rpm motor.

On a rolling stand that can be locked in position.


OP Update on Mysterious Case of Rudder Dimples

Brian was right. My A&P inspected the rudder and empennage this week and found deformation and a 1/8" crack on the rudder horn brace (see Photos 1 & 2). A call to Van's support told us to stop-drill the crack and continue to monitor it. If it grows at all we need to replace the part.

So, it seems this gust induced rudder-elevator strike was not as bad as it could have been, as the marks in the rudder were "dimples" and not holes and there appear to be no further signs of deformation (wrinkles, buckling, etc).

That said, in my opinion the free-swinging rudder on the RV-14A is one of the bigger challenges of long cross-country trips. I have yet to find a way of effectively securing it so I can sleep without visions of slamming rudders dancing through my head.

Based on experience (and a few of your posts), my current plan of gust lock redundancy is:

- Any "thru the hinge line" gust locks go in the trash (see Photo 3)

- Clamp new AirGizmo locks (with tabs) on aileron, elevator, and top of rudder if I can reach it

- Antisplat Ultimate Gust Lock on copilot stick

- Seat belt around pilot stick

The Antisplat shows promise but I've found it can slip off the rudder pedals with full aileron deflection, so obviously it's important to lock the ailerons. I thought I'd done this with my old AirGizmos but found they also worked loose in strong gusts, setting up a chain of events that leaves the plane with little gust protection other than the seatbelt.

Thanks to all who weighed in here. Will update as appropriate


Reported 4/14 on the Mothership


RV-15 Dreaming....springtime in Texas

Took the cub up for a .3 this morning (first flight in that in a loooonnnngg time).

Got me thinking again about how nice it's going to be to do this type stuff in the RV-15!

Doesn't that picture just scream 'get the lawn chair out, sit in that morning shade and leave the laptop OFF while you finish your morning ice tea'? Springtime in Texas photo for your enjoyment...



4/14/2022.  Issue #5,550.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

RV-3 Status Update ...Chris Beebe

Work in progress. Have a few taxi tests complete. Next on the list is transition training and tail wheel endorsement.


Precise Location of Instrument Panel (7/7A/9/9A)


I'm at the stage of building out the forward fuselage for my very-slow-build RV7 slider, and have the forward top skin F-7106 clecoed on (that was difficult!). The instrument panel F-7103 is clecoed on at the top to the 3 ribs and the F-7103B&C angles, but the little brackets (F-721C and F-721D) are not yet attached to the forward deck.

The instructions just say to "Fit and drill the the F-721C and F-721D attach angles to the panel and the F-721A deck". However there is still a reasonable amount of flexibility in the panel and I can push it a few 32nds fore and aft pretty easily, which leaves some uncertainty in the precise location of these attach angles and consequently in the bottom of the panel.

I don't want to end up with the panel too far forward (and possibly interfering with the stick), or twisted in some way. I've looked in vain for some measurements on the plans to determine how far back it should be, but can't find anything.

Am I missing something obvious or can anyone give me a few pointers here?


New cooler mount design ...cgeyman PIREP

To Vlad's concern, it looks like they beefed up the design in late 2008, hurray
(See beefed up upper brace and thicker outer mount):


Canopy Replacement with Screws

Hello all,

Looking to engage the VAF brain trust on this one. I'm currently replacing the canopy on my RV-8 due to multiple (7) cracks in the plexiglas. I've been using the procedures outlined by Danny King and Paul Dye in a thread from 2012. So far, I have successfully removed the old transparency with minimal damage, and have cleaned up the frame.

The problem I've discovered is that the original canopy was attached with #6 screws threaded into riv-nuts in the tube steel frame. As seen in this photo, the rib-nuts have a flange that I am concerned will induce a stress riser on the new plexiglas canopy, and cause another crack.

I've brainstormed 3 different courses of action going forward, but wanted to pick the VAF braintrust. Below are the options I've thought of, but I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts, even if (especially if) they're different than the options I've considered below.

Courses of Action:


TIG Torch Hand - Rest ...HFS

I do a bit of TIG welding on smaller parts that sometimes are hard to find a suitable rest for me torch hand (I'm left handed - so the attached pics may "feel" backwards).

I used a magnetic base with a vertical round tube, that the horizontal square tube can be positioned to a location suitable for welding, up/down, forward/back. Made two "rests" - one for vertical welds (shown installed), one for horizontal welds that are close to the table (laying down in front).

YMMV - and probably will.


Incorporating some-8 in the -3 ...Steve Formhals PIREP

As you have probably noticed, the RV3 plans are pretty rudimentary compared to the newer models. My plans do not show the bottom skins in the drawings, just the top; however, I have incorporated som RV8 style upgrades, as have others. This includes doing the double row of rivets where the two bottom skins overlap.

In my opinion, it wasn't that much extra work and adds additional strength to the joint. The skins I had were large enough to allow the double row without any problem.

The pictures below show the lay out and the riveting. It's hard to tell from the photo ( this photo might have been taken before all the riveting was done) but I was able to use Solid rivets for all except the 12 rivets on the inboard row closest to the trailing edge, which ended up being blind rivets.



4/13/2022.  Issue #5,549.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Wanting to go play.  dr's -6 'Flash'.
full size


Looking for wire routing pictures

Q: Does anybody have a few pictures of what it looks like to run wiring down the outside corners of the cockpit floor on your way aft?

I'n my mind, I had always planned to run everything down the center tunnel (if I had room) But my prefabricated avionics bundle has most of the stuff going aft already tied up in snakeskin anti-chafe in two branches that are coming off the trunk in such a way that they were clearly envisioned to be routed outboard.

It's an RV7. Not that it matters for concept purposes.

A: No, the only wires to go down the central tunnel were the flap wires.

The wires described in the video went through either the left or right conduit shown in this photo. These conduits are not in the plans.

All spar penetrations followed the Van's guidelines.


Raising the bottom of the Instrument Panel?

Q: One of the many wonderful things about the newer glass instruments is how SO MUCH information can be compressed into a smaller space than the old "Six-pack" days of round dials.

My tentative panel will leave room along the bottom of the panel unused, so I'm interested in cutting the panel along the bottom to allow for a longer stick and more leg room.
I'm concerned that cutting off that rounded corner at the bottom will reduce the integrity of the panel. Am I over thinking that? I know I could always rivet some angle along the newer edge down there.

A: (Ironflight) Regardless of whether o9r not you can cut it shorter (I know of some cases where folks cut only the CENTER shorter - sort of a notch in the bottom - I think. You're going to find that your avionics are not going to mount as close to each other as you think they are. You'll need supporting structure between things in order to make the panel work. If you're cutting that much of the panel away to provide square openings for the boxes and faceplates, you'll need stiffeners of aluminum to restore the structure and to give you rails on which to mount some things.

Just speaking from experience - its easy to cram more stuff in than will fit!


Status: Lights ...rockitdoc 14A

"...I just hope the forward thrust of these lights doesn't lead to a stall when they are activated! Sort of reminiscent of what happened to the A10 Warthog when the gatling gun in the nose was first tested!"


Status Report: Joeyo68 RV-7

Got paint and wings!
More progress over the last couple of weeks.
Spent last week with my painter painting my RV, and tonight, with some local RV/pilot buddies we bolted on the wings for the final time!


More from the 'What I Did' Thread This Past Weekend



4/12/2022.  Issue #5,548.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

From the My RV Weekend Thread

(dreed) Cascade Locks (KCZK) great little strip if you're ever in the Portland area, and my first trip in there- Right next to the Columbia River, great views all around. Highly recommended (watch for animals on the runway)


RV-10 Red Beacon

Did some night flying in a friend's RV a few weeks ago. After landing the white strobes reflecting back were very annoying on the taxi back to the hangar. Decided I wanted a red beacon for night ground ops, and shamelessly borrowed some ideas from this thread. Went with the Whelen Vertex for 35 bucks on Ebay. This is how it came out.


Firewall grommet: Page 46-20 ...RV-10

Page 46-20 step 1 has us install a grommet in the firewall but I see no further reference to it. Can someone tell me which wires pass through this? Thanks.


"Suggestion" For Paint Shop Convenience ...HFS

My building shop gets turned into a paint shop once in a while, and it is nice to be able to easily suspend parts for the painting process. Even when it is still a working shop, there are times when small pieces need to be "hung up", either for drying or painting with aerosol cans.

When building the shop I knew I was going to need this option, so built in a "grid" of hangers to facilitate such - DIY eye bolts in ceiling on 1' centers. Using 5' x 3/4" dowels, with slotted eye lag bolts at either end, I can set up single hangers, or hanging bars approximately 5' above the floor (10' ceiling height).


Mysterious Case of Rudder Dimples

A few days ago my RV-14A was tied down on a Wyoming ramp under some pretty strong surface winds (30 knots or so). While I did have redundant gust locks in place (Airgizmos, Anti-Splat, and Pad-Lock), they popped off a few times and I had to reattach them.

Everything seemed OK on inspection this morning, but I noticed three curious dimples just about where the rudder might contact the elevator if the RV-14 rudder stop weren't in place (see Photo 1 attached). As it is, the rudder stop prevents these surfaces from coming anywhere near each other (I measure a full inch between a pegged rudder and the elevator surface - see Photo 2).

For the rudder to override the stop and whack the elevator hard enough to cause these dimples seems unlikely, and I find no obvious sign of wrinkles/deformation/flex on the rudder.

I suppose these dimples could be totally unrelated (hangar rash, etc) but the location, shape, and circumstances have me very suspicious.

Opinions appreciated.

[ed. I have them on my RV-6 rudder - I put stickers over them.  Wind gusts caused.  v/r,dr]


Houston area monthly lunch (April 2022)

Wow, it's that time again already...once again, weekend weather is looking good, and since I missed out on the last seafood run, let's give Lake Jackson a try again.

If anyone needs a lift down, I'll be taking a club Archer out of KTME. I can take along either one decent-sized adult or a couple of really skinny folks. But in exchange for that limited useful load, we get...air conditioning.

Time: 11:30 AM
Place: Runway Cafe, KLBX


Pondered Completion ...goatflieg

Saturday was rainy, so I fussed over a few minor items, then just sat with the plane for a couple hours, looking it over. I was finally really sinking in that I had a flyable airplane now.


Mistake on aileron spar dumb *** - holes to close

So today was a very productive day and I was wrapping up when I realise that I had used the wrong line to position my aileron nose rib. I initally thought...a simple fix was to replace the spar doublcing plate on the front and move on. So after making a new one, I place the nose rib in place and used the 90 degree drill to get the rib in the correct location. Sucess or so I thought!....nope being the dumb *** that I am, missed that the spar was already drilled and drilled three holes right next to the ones I had drillered earlier. So the rib....all good, doubler all good, but spar has 6 holes instead of 3....and no the minimum gap distance would not apply. They are no 30 holes and the distance on the top one is around 3/32 and 1/8 at the bottom...what to do next, replace the aileron spar ? Any help appreciated...So dang cross with myself for being so stupid! Pics attached of my mess


Panel Upgrade Status ...hangar7racing



4/10/2022.  Issue #5,547.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

No Limits!

Marco Cherubini is a paraplegic, but that didn't stop him from building an RV-7 and fulfilling his dreams of flight.

By Luca Perazzolli (new article in Kitplanes)


Fuel Tank & Alodine PIREP ...Dan Newman RV-8

I did my tanks this way, both for adhesion promotion and for corrosion protection (mostly during the couple of years the tanks have been stored in a humid, salty, dusty environment while I build the rest of the aircraft). I Alodined all the ribs, skins and stiffeners, following the specification process. Used a bath for ribs and stiffeners, brush and wipe on for the skins. The attached image shows an example.

The Proseal adhesion to Alodined surfaces was excellent. The only place I had any adhesion problem was on one of the filler neck flanges, which I didn't Alodine and obviously didn't scuff or clean well enough.


Milestone Photo: David Paule -3B

After over 6,000 hours, it took less than four more to put a few parts on the fuselage. Then it was time for the requisite photo.


SB 07-11-09 Nose gear leg and fork upgrade ...PaulvS

The nose gear leg and fork upgrade bulletin requires either a new gear leg, or modification to the existing gear leg, by threading an extra 1" on the end and then cutting off the original threaded section to provide extra clearance between the ground and the bottom of the leg.  --->


Leak Test PIREP ...Reflex

Here's mine from a long time ago. Thought I had a better picture. Left it on the manometer for 30 days. Took readings every 24 hours. Significant changes due to temp and pressure.


Status ...PilotjohnS 9A

I just got the windscreen glued in with sikaflex. What a mess.  First, I made up spacers that go on the roll bar to set the height of the windscreen to match the canopy.  --->


Plumbing Status Lines ....Mike W PIREP

"...the pressure distribution model says that the center will be the average of the two port pressures. I plumb mine like this, and it also addresses trapped water."


Frankensnorkel beaten ...Larry Larson 7A

I beat it. One end anyway. This thing is like herding cats while wearing a blindfold and riding a wild stallion. Pencil drawings. Really?
Solution was to cut it in half.

I had to fabricate a replacement bracket. Actually five of them. I finally got it right on the sixth.
Now I can fit the servo end and glass the two back together. Finally, some progress.


RV-9A Cal's Build Update

Exhaust system.  Pretty fun to hang. Now to make sure the hoses all stay 1.5" or more away.


Panel Upgrade in the Works ...Cdenora data point

"..this was the old panel...old school basic VFR"


Restored Shear ...DanH

Been knocking out long-delayed projects. Just wrapped up the restoration of a 52" Wysong & Miles metal shear, Model 452. It's been living in the back of my hangar more than 20 years. So, dismantle, sandblast, repaint, and re-assemble with all new hardware.

Know anything about Wysong & Miles shears? Casting numbers on some parts include "Y5", which I have assumed to mean 1945 or 1955, but it's strictly a guess. I'd like to learn more.

Next up, a 10 ft Tumpco sheet metal brake...


My RV Weekend ...various folks


RV-14 Panel Status ...JET14



4/8/2022.  Issue #5,546.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

DIY Oil Filter Drain ...HFS

Here is a simple and effective way to drain the residual oil out of the filter at oil change - best for horizontal installations. Not so much otherwise.

If installed and used correctly there will be no "drips" when removing the filter - just have an adequate length drain period. Also makes a difference whether the oil is warm/hot or cold....

YMMV - and probably will

The 90* elbow is to miss the FW "shelf" on -4's & Rockets - o/w if there is enough clearance, a straight fitting (much simpler to make) works just as well.


Greg Niehues SnF Groundtrack ...-9A

6.8 hours including taxi time - 42 gallons - nonstop, landed with 25 gallons still in the tank so I don't have to buy the oh-so-expensive fuel here on the field. Had an awesome tailwind at 17,000 all the way.

Field is a bit damp from recent rains and another round is coming today, but the rest of the week looks awesome. Come play!


Dimple where there shouldn't be

Ok I dimpled the #6 screw hole for a nutplate on the upper rear bulkhead where I was apparently supposed to have only dimpled the #40 holes on either side. Since this will just be used for the trim attach screws will I be good to leave as is? The skin for the associated hole isn't dimpled while the screw hole is located.


Voltage fluctuation

I'm having a problem with voltage fluctuations. The needle movement is about 3 times per second for about 2 volts. I changed the regulator and the fluctuations ceased for about 4 hours flight time. Now they are back again. I am not the original owner of the aircraft. I read the first flight article and he had a regulator fail. He installed a VR-166 but had to do some rewiring to make it work.

I got a box or receipts with the aircraft and with it is a drawing of the electrical system that I think is installed. It lists a 1976 Honda Accord 50 Amp alternator and a 177-D510 regulator but that regulator failed on the first flight.

I will have to drop the cowl to see what alternator is actually installed.

Any idea why the voltmeter is showing fluctuations? What regulator should I be using?


Leak Testing Fuel Tanks

I haven't found any photos of a manometer hooked up to the fuel tank to measure the 1 psi needed to check for leaks. So, here is how I set it up:

Hooked a bicycle pump up to the Shrader valve at the yellow arrow. Pumped it until the column of red water in the Tygon tubing (thanks Larry) reached a differential of 30" (that's about 1 psi up here in Colorado. It will be different if your elevation is different, naturally).

Leaks found with bubble liquid obtained in the aircraft aisle at a local toy store. My leaks were at the ground screw holding the float mechanism to the side of the tank. A little sealant on the threads and the washer should solve issue. I'll find out tomorrow.


Oil suction screen finding and question

I am pretty good about pulling my oil suction screen, and in 6 years and > 500 hours of flying, I have never found anything at all on it. Yesterday, however, during my CI oil change, I did find one small flake of non-magnetic metal in the oil, stuck to the bottom of the retaining bolt for the suction screen, as pictured below, thin and about 3/32" long. Remainder of suction screen as well as oil filter element are pristine, as usual. Compressions are all >75/80. Borescope exam is on tap for tomorrow.

A few questions -

Since I've never found anything before, I'm embarrassed to admit I don't even know which way oil flows through the screen. I had thought oil flows from the outside in, and as such particles would be trapped on the outside of the screen. Am I mistaken?

Secondly, any recommendations on a lab to send this to for analysis? I am just starting my CI, so plane is obviously grounded until I have further information.

Lastly anybody care to share similar experience and findings?


Mothership at SnF

"The Van's tent at Sun 'n Fun is all set up and ready for the big show starting Tuesday morning! Come see the RV-10 and RV-14, and visit with Anne, Kelsey, Tony, Mitch and Greg!"

click to enlarge



4/7/2022.  Issue #5,545.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Slo Mo RV-8 Climbout after T'n'Go

Me and my iPhone a few days back.  Al and Gary in the plane.


Maintenance item - sniffle line bracket FF-00076

This is just an FYI to anyone who is transitioning from the build phase to the maintenance phase.

I am almost done with my first condition inspection. I have 98 hours on the plane. The only part I had to order from Van's Aircraft was FF-00076, the little metal bracket that holds the sniffle line up at the front. It broke at the bend. I ordered two so I will have a spare. I would suggest that others do the same.

It's probably the easiest part of the plane to fabricate if you wanted to do it at home, but I have been too busy for metal work and actually need my plane back in the air, so I am at the mercy of the US Postal Service this week.

Everything else, save a couple of screws, survived the first year in good shape. I thought ahead and bought 100 each of the screws and washers for the interior and exterior access covers, spinner, and air filter frame. If not for that sniffle line bracket, I'd be in the air right now.

Happy building and flying, everyone.


Dog in RV ...Zazoos data point

Lucky to have a dog that travels so well.


Shop noise and being a considerate neighbor

My wife and I may be relocating to a newer house with a garage large enough to move my RV-14 project into. She brought up shop noise as a possible issue with the HOA. I don't think noise would be a problem for our new place because the neighbor garage is the closest part of their home to our garage and there is lots of space and vegetation between too.

Anyone here have ever had a neighbor complain about your rivet gun disturbing them?


VPX and PPS manual updates for use of the B&C LR3C/D voltage regulator ...cjensen

"We just uploaded updated versions of both the VPX and PPS manuals to reflect a small change in wiring of the Vsense line from the B & C LR3C/D voltage regulator. The change came after a review with B & C Specialties over the last few weeks in which an inadvertent or accidental switch off of the alternator field would allow the VR to raise voltage to an unsafe level, which could damage the PPS. This was addressed in a previous manual update with a wiring and switch assignment change, but this update eliminates the possibility of an accidental switch off of the alternator doing any damage to the PPS by removing the Vsense connection to the VPX when using a PPS."


Voltage fluctuation

I'M having a problem with voltage fluctuations. The needle movement is about 3 times per second for about 2 volts. I changed the regulator and the fluctuations ceased for about 4 hours flight time. Now they are back again. I am not the original owner of the aircraft. I read the first flight article and he had a regulator fail. He installed a VR-166 but had to do some rewiring to make it work.

I got a box or receipts with the aircraft and with it is a drawing of the electrical system that I think is installed. It lists a 1976 Honda Accord 50 Amp alternator and a 177-D510 regulator but that regulator failed on the first flight.

I will have to drop the cowl to see what alternator is actually installed.

Any idea why the voltmeter is showing fluctuations? What regulator should I be using?


I'm a Bon Ami believer!

Very pleasantly surprised at my results! Anticipated that it would take a great deal of elbow grease to get rid of the corrosion. But, just reasonable effort, no sore arms. Probably 30 minutes work between rubbing, rinsing and wiping to check progress.



4/6/2022.  Issue #5,544.
  If you'll allow me to brag for just a second, our 21-yr old son just had his first scientific paper published (he's a chemistry major at SMU). There was a brief moment 20 years back when I thought I was smarter than this young man. Unrelated, he might be the only chemistry major at SMU that knows how to weld, use a torque wrench and change a timing belt.  Mom and Dad's hearts swell with pride and love...   Go Taters!
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

It's an Airplane! ...Krea Ellis RV-10

After 3975 hours over 36 non-consecutive months, N10KE is officially an airplane.

Many thanks to DAR Vern Darley, for his thorough inspection today while he was being "inspected" by the local FAA FSDO representative.

Now to finish re-assembly and get on with Phase 1!


David Paule -3B Update

I got the top and the bottom side mounting strips done, primed and riveted on. Years ago, I bought a set of Mil-Spec fasteners, not knowing that they'd go out of business leaving Skybolt as the main RV quarter-turn fastener vendor. The two products are substantially similar. These got riveted to the mounting strips and then the strips to the firewall.

The top strip was complicated by needing the nutplates for the forward fuselage top skin, which on an RV-3, is removable.

A decision I'd made back when I was skinning the fuselage paid off - I had not riveted the firewall joint to the side skins, relying on the G/flex epoxy for the joint. That decision paid off because the side strip rivets didn't interfere with a previous rivet pattern. The riveting on the top was less fun than I'd hoped, partly because of the nutplates but mostly because of the firewall flanges.


Wire Routing Through Ribs

I usually rout wires through ribs using snap bushings. But, sometimes bits come pre-terminated, as is the case with the Dynon pitot tube and heater control. So, I just routed the wires through the lightening hole in the rib with 3M mounts in strategic points to keep the wires away from sharp edges.


Runaway Trim Yesterday in 14A

Some context: I am a relatively new pilot - just 270 hours, but about 260 of those hours were over a dozen years ago. I bought an RV-14A last month and did 5 hours of instruction on the way home and another 5 back here in Texas before getting signed off to fly my own bird solo.

So all week I've been shooting touch-and-gos and was doing the same yesterday. My procedure once I touch down is to quickly clean up the airplane - flaps up (3 momentary clicks) and hold the hat switch up to send the trim from nearly full up back to neutral. I visually confirm the flaps are up, check the trim indicator and then hit the throttle to go again if the trim is anywhere near neutral.

I'm not sure exactly when the runaway trim started (probably the motor just kept going after I let off the switch), but somewhere around 50ft AGL I noticed I was having to apply what I would call extreme back pressure to climb. For a second I felt I couldn't climb. It caught my attention immediately.

After the initial shock of it, I took a breath and focused on flying. I noticed that the trim indicator showed full down but toggling the hat switch had no effect. I did not even think to go into the VPX settings to try to adjust from there, but honestly I probably wouldn't have been able to reach over to the MFD and handle that given the focus and physical strength it took to fly the airplane.

Having just got back into aviation after a long hiatus, the term runaway trim wasn't even in my lexicon, and although I saw the indicator stuck on full up, a part of my brain was convinced there was some structural problem with the elevator that could get worse any moment. For this reason I decided to stay in the pattern and land as soon as possible. In hindsight, I should've left the pattern to stabilize the airplane and troubleshoot. At a minimum, I could've experimented with pitch control and better understood the limitations before attempting a landing.

But I was in a hurry, so I radioed the 3 other planes in the pattern to let them know I had an elevator problem and asked for them to clear the way. Prior to this point I was hitting the numbers at 65 every single landing, but in my haste to get on the ground this time the approach was hot and I crossed the threshold probably around 80. There was a lot of bouncing and I used 3500 of the 4000 feet available. When I got to the ramp and turned every thing off and back on, the trim functioned normally.

This topic has been discussed extensively in another thread, so the technical considerations perhaps belong there. But after researching it, I'll be doing a few things:

1. I'll be working with my A&P to diagnose exactly where the failure occurred. I'm not a builder so I need help there.

2. I'll be practicing (at altitude) runaway trim scenarios. The airplane is in fact controllable, especially as slow speed in the pattern, but my arm was sore after fighting it for just a few minutes and it wasn't a pleasant experience.

3. I'll be considering solutions from the market for this, like the TCW Safety Trim module, with the understanding that this in one sense just adds more electrical complexity.

I certainly welcome any feedback from the community as well.


Eighteen Years.... smokyray

Guys, a fellow brother in arms emailed me today reminding me of an epic "RV weekend" at my grass strip home near KLAL, 18 years ago today.

Thirteen various model RV's flown by F16 (and other) bros of various lineage shoehorned themselves (and their RV's ) into my short, soft, turf runway for a stay-over and Sun N Fun 2004 visit. Later our Sq CC "Rascal" would lead us on a formation photo shoot flying on the EAA C-210's wing with Jim Koepnik performing his camera magic.
All this for a Sport Aviation blurb some knucklehead threw together. The article was subsequently released a year later, much to the author's surprise!

Seems like yesterday.


Wheel pants repaired/refurbished?

RV-9A...wheel pants have all taken a beating over the years from one or two bad grass fields and a couple of flat tires on landing. Stress cracks etc at some of the edges. No missing fiberglass.

We have a great body shop in the area, and because this is high-end lake country, they do a huge amount of major fiberglass repair on boats. That said...boats are not airplanes and they're a little concerned about working on airplane components. My goal would be to drop them off, have them do the fiberglass work, then repaint, and we're good to go. However, I'm wondering if I wouldn't be better off sending them off to someone with substantial experience in wheel pants repair. I can arrange the painting, but I don't really have the time to do the job myself right now.

Anyone here know of any companies, services, or experienced builders that does this kind of wheel pants restoration work?


Busy day for 12s ...Jon

Lots of RV12 pilots out enjoying the good weather today.


Continuous beep when master switched on

I just recently purchased a 2010 RV-12 with the D180. I really love to fly it. I am currently in transition training for insurance and things have been going well until the last flight. When I turn on the Master, a continuous beep can be heard through the headset. It is about half the volume of any alerts from the D180. It never went away for the duration of the last flight. Only turning the master off stops it. Has anyone had this happen to them? Is it a loose ground? Not sure where to start. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.


Creative Bucking ...Draker

I used the pop rivet dimple dies too. No problem. The dimple is not as crisp as one done with a squeezer or DRDT, but it's acceptable. For riveting flush rivets solo where my arms can't reach, I put a tungsten bucking bar on a floor jack securely up against the skin and back-riveted from the inside:



4/5/2022.  Issue #5,543.
  My hangar neighbor is WTB a D10A, D100 or 7" Skyview for his RV-8.  I told him I'd put a note up here today, even if is a Navy puke.  I kidd <g>.  He was one of my IFR instructors and I owe him huge.  Super guy.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Mothership at SnF

"The Van's tent at Sun 'n Fun is all set up and ready for the big show starting Tuesday morning! Come see the RV-10 and RV-14, and visit with Anne, Kelsey, Tony, Mitch and Greg!"

click to enlarge


Infrared Camera PIREP ...Larry new

...works well to check for a foul deck (lots of wildlife in south Texas). Simple install as a camera input on the G3X. Mounted to inspection panel under wing.


Anyone else have issues with tailspring rust?

This is really starting to annoy me. I left the tailspring for my -8 bare for a long time because it was serving as a rear pivot point for my rotisseries setup. I figured a good coat of epoxy primer was what I needed, but didn't want it to get rubbed off from me rolling the fuse around, so I just dealt with periodically cleaning off rust spots.

When I finally decided I was done with the rotisserie late last year, I immediately gave the spring a good cleaning and shot 2K epoxy primer on it. I figured I was finally done with the rust issue, but today I noticed rust spots blooming through the primer.

Surely some other folks have dealt with this issue. Are folks powder coating the spring? Painting it? Maybe I should have given it a topcoat after the primer? I figured that was kinda a waste since the plane will get painted down the road, but I'm about at my wit's end with this.


The Grin ...bryanhorgan

Coming from a cherokee 140, the 7a is a spaceship!


First Flight - Engine Break In

Preparing for first flight with a new (overhauled) O-320. Lycoming SI 1427 indicates 1 hour at 75% power then 2nd hour at 65-75% power.
Vans section 15 recommends first flight should be limited to 30-40 minutes. Do the Lycoming time recommendations need to be completed cumulatively or can they be broken down into shorter sessions.


What Now? Bent Canopy Skin.

Well, crud! Was being very careful not to open the canopy while fitting the upper forward skin. Spent several hours making a gap between the skins. Decided to open in up a little extra (nearly 1/8"). Looked good and decided to open the canopy. Still got pinched, then bent. Grrrrr! What do I do now? I'll relieve the bend, then is fiberglass to make it look better. Open that gap even more? What's the trick? Thanks.


My RV Weekend ...more submits



4/4/2022.  Issue #5,542.
  Fifteen years ago today I took the plunge making this site my full time job.  Thanks again to everyone that visits.  Pushing out Monday early because sim side thing.
  I hope you had a nice weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Commercial Ticket:  Check!

Congrats to Tony Malley, based out of 52F, who recieved his commercial ticket this past week in his RV-7A.


RV Grin ...john Wiltberger PIREP

Thanks to Myron for our first flight in an RV, in his beautiful RV-10! We both had a blast!!


DIY Cheap (Sort Of) Wheel Balancer ...HFS

I have a "fancier" wheel balancer that required a lot of machining & welding. It works great, but doesn't lend itself to the masses as a viable DIY project - if balancing the wheels is of importance to you. So I thought I would try to make something a bit simpler (from a DIY standpoint) that still performed as well as my "high priced spread".  --->


Bird Strike Repair

I recently suffered a bird strike on the left wing of the 10 and I am looking into the best (least painful/most effective/efficient) way to go about this repair. I have an airframe guy who is going to do it. The three options of now that I am looking at are:  --->


My RV Weekend ....folks chiming in


Insulating boot from batt positive to master contactor

On the RV7, the battery positive cable to master contactor has a 90* bend in the terminal lug to make it fit the contactor post. Standard terminal boots are designed for a straight terminal i.e. they are an "L" shape, and what you really need is an "S" shape.

Maybe I've just never run across it, but in all my various searches for stuff on VAF or google, the only two solutions I recall seeing were to skip it entirely, or just shove it on there and hope for the best.

Anyway, don't know if this will help anybody out or not, but if you use two boots and cut them up, there's a really simple solution. It's hard to see in the picture, but the upper boot 1/2 is held in place by a wire tie.


Newly Added to the Mothership First Flight Section



4/1/2022.  Issue #5,541.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Airworthy!  ...goatflieg -8

One picture is worth 2502 days, 9000 photos and documents, endless ups and downs, and a sizeable fortune.


Easing the pain of a friend

One of our best friends lost her husband recently. They were both pilots and loved their beautiful Cherokee 235, "Salt Life". Her birthday was a week after his passing so I took her to lunch for the first time in my RV6A. As you can see, she was able to momentarily suppress the grief. It will be a long, hard road for her but it was nice to see her beginning the process of trying to move forward.


Status Report: nohoflyer -7A

Finally finished tanks. Attached top skins. Flipped wings over. Like most people, this was a big deal for me.


Green Loctite fuel leak question

My RV-10 has one weeping rivet on each tank. The offending rivets are one rib in on the top of the tanks near the forward edge of the wing-walk.

I have used two rounds of loctite 290 and think the leaks are very close to being sealed. I would like to put a vacuum on the tanks to see if I can draw any more loctite into the leaking areas.

My question is: what do I use to draw the vacuum? Harbor Freight has a $15 AC vacuum pump. Will those do the job or do I need something different altogether?


Fuel pump, tight fit. kjelle69 RV-4

The old fuel pump question... Best solution? Shoot :-)


Stripped Nutplate - Sort Of (Test) ...HFS

I tested the OP's suggestion of filling the -8 anchor nut with epoxy, or equivalent
(I used 3M ScotchWeld 2216, thickened with powdered Aluminum), drilling the pilot hole (.1065) for a 6-32 thread, and then threading same.

I used a mechanical inline scale (granted, not the most accurate - but does give a good "relative" indication). The attached pic shows the assembly as tested.

Result: I tightened the screw to what I considered an acceptable level (didn't have my small torque wrench at hand), and pulled to 50 lbs + with no apparent loss of performance. I repeated this process several times - no change in results.

My suggestion, based on the above is: Make sure the anchor nut thread area is clean and without any contaminate that might compromise the epoxy adhesion.

Use a suitable epoxy, 3M, JB Weld, G-Flex, or ?, with enough appropriate filler material to make it "non-sag", to make sure it stays in the nut plate thread body without "oozing" out during the cure period.

Make sure cure period is adhered to - I super cured my sample by elevated heat over the period recommended by 3M.

YMMV - But I bet not much.

For light, non structural loading, I would not be afraid to use this process.


RV-7 air filter access

I have FAB-HORIZON INDUCTION-1 filtered snorkel/airbox for IO-360 as sold in 2009. changing air filter requires disconnecting the airbox and dropping it down a few inches so the filter will slide out past the lip of the airbox. that requires removal of a dozen 6-32 screws that sandwich the filter tray between airbox and baffle, and also the 4 wired bolts that hold the airbox to the carb flange.

Has anybody come up with a "quick access" filter setup? It appears to be a simple fix to notch the front of the airbox about 5/8" then the filter would just slide in and out--and then to attach a removable plate to cover the notch once the filter is seated?



3/31/2022.  Issue #5,540.
  Early push out of the Thu edition - sim side hustle.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Adjusting the canopy frame ...Paul in Western Australia

There were a few issues with the canopy frame: it was twisted out of square from front to back; the left rear hoop was too high; the forward bow was too wide; the side tubes did not match the shape of the fuselage sides (mainly in the centre).
It has been a slow process to bend and check each part of the frame and has taken a week of work so far, off and on. Some I did off the fuselage in a heavy woodworking bench vise and other was better with the frame sitting in the rails.

The difficulty with bending is how much force to apply (initial displacement) in order to get a final displacement, due to the springiness of the steel. And I'm finding that a change in one area can have an unexpected effect in another area, so it has been best to try and make one change at a time.

I also started getting the canopy ready for marking and trimming by removing the protective film which has been on since the finishing kit was delivered in 2000. Most of it came off OK and there were a couple of spots where I used a towel soaked in hot water to help ease if off.

Meanwhile, outside there has been an early start to the growing season and the paddock is being chained to get it ready for sowing and more work!


RV-7A JCarne Build Update

And you all thought I was done!  Just doing some test pieces of 3M 2080 to see how easy it is to conform. Very impressed so far.


It happens....


Leak PIREP on 30yr old -6 Tank ...Butch

Since tank installed, came out easily. Leak location seems to be just outside root rib, rear baffle area. Never been wet outside of wing, just stains. No zee brackets on 6 models.



3/30/2022.  Issue #5,539.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Can never be too careful.

After review from my DPE, I closed up my 14 H/S. While moving to storage, I noticed a small scratch on l/e. Hardly visible through the blue film... Upon peeling back, I saw this. Mothership reco'ed rebuild or replace.... Talk about a kick in the shorts... DPE has a few options to explore....

No idea how it occurred or when.... but lesson learned. No more 10 neighbor tours of the shop while building...


Computing FF using desired AFR, MAP, T, RPM

I'm sure this has been done, but I can't seem to find it. Perhaps it does not make sense.

It seems like our EFIS or an app should be able to tell us the exact FF we should use for a desired AFR, given the engine size, RPM, OAT, and MAP.

I did some (probably bad) math to calculate air mass and came up with something like this for 360 in3 engine like my io-360. Standard temps, AFR of 12:1, volumetric efficiency of .88.  --->


Piano hinge height for vertical cowl line ...Ray Tonks PIREP

What I did was clamp a piece of the hinge on the top edge of the lower cowl in the position I would want it. Then I positioned the lower cowl against the firewall to determine where the interference would be. Then I cut the side hinges to clear the top edge hinge.

Others may say that this is not 100% correct since the aft edge of the lower cowl will be trimmed when it is fitted, but I think there is still plenty of room. I can't guarantee that this method work yet, but it the approach that I took. Follow my method at your own risk. --->


Vlad Milos Sees an RV-10

I would like to say THANK YOU to Ethan and Marc for taking time out of their busy days and showing me their beautiful RV-10s. I learned a lot interesting things for my RV10 build.

I was also lucky that the weather was favourable on one of these days and I got a chance to fly for the first time in my life in RV-10. Thank you Marc for taking me up. It is amazing airplane, I was impressed by the speed numbers I can't wait to finish my RV10 now.


Rev 2 of John B's Canopy Handle

There are a couple of dimensions I'll need to refine the design.
1. Rivet spacing. I don't know if the canopy frame comes pre-punched or the builder transfers the holes from the handle. In any case, give me some numbers.
2. If you give me the dimension indicated in the image below I can calculate the angle. Non-right angles require three sides or two sides and an angle:


Holes in titanium

I used Fibrefrax covered with .005" Ti foil. I must have used a softer grade than you did. After some experimentation I found that a sharp 3/32 bit would easily drill a clean hole and it could be upsized with a 1/8" bit, but anything bigger would tend to grab the foil and twist it like a wet towel. Solution was to use a small cone shaped grinding stone in a dremel to enlarge holes to desired size. Didn't leave much of a burr, but when it did a sanding disc or flap wheel easily cleaned it up. I used the firewall components for clamping everything in place but needed about 10 pop rivets in strategic locations. In those spots I ground the holes just big enough to accept the dimpled countersink of a #8 SS CS washer and used a sealed SS 1/8" universal head pop rivet.


Keith's -7A Wing Root Filter PIREP

My method. I change the filters each CI. 900 troublefree hours.



3/29/2022.  Issue #5,538.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Drilling Bolt Heads for Safety Wire

First a disclaimer: I only cross drill bolt heads for safety wiring if there is no other suitable option.  Here a couple of pics of my cross drilling fixture for -3 AN bolts:


Garmin Announces the D2 Mach 1

".. today announced the D2 Mach 1 GPS aviator smartwatch with classic pilot watch styling and a bright AMOLED touchscreen display that offers advanced tools for flying - plus health and fitness features - to help pilots and aviation enthusiasts accelerate their adventures. With a battery life of up to 11 days..."


Tailwheel endorsement worth it?

As someone who wants to fly instead of build, would it be worth getting a tailwheel endorsement to broaden my options on searching for a flying RV(6-9)? It seems there are more tailwheel RVs than nosewheels, and the tailwheels tend to sell for a bit less (this is not ALWAYS the case). I don't necessarily need a TW, but if it helps me get a slightly better deal, I wouldn't mind, even if insurance is a bit more expensive.

On a second topic, as someone who earns less than $50k annually, could it be a good idea to buy a cheap tailwheel such as a Cessna 120/140, Luscombe 8, etc.? This would not only serve to build tw time to help with insurance, but also give an introduction to aircraft ownership in general. If I can't afford to fuel, insure, or maintain a $25k with an 80hp engine, I certainly can't own an airplane with twice the hp and thrice or frice (4x) the purchase price.

I should mention that I'm not mechanically inclined to perform my own maintenance (at least to start with), so maintenance won't really be cheaper than on a certified aircraft.

[ed. Yes.  v/r,dr]


More From this Week's 'My RV Weekend'


Update: David Paule -3B

The firewall insulation went on after a lot of trimming and fiddling. At the last minute, I had to trim the perimeter back a little to allow for installing the quarter-turn cowl fastener's mounting strips. And of course I had to trim the .005 Titanium overlay foil, too.

I used 3M's spray adhesive #77 on the firewall to attach the insulation. It allows repositioning for a bit and then sets firm. I used it again for the overlay foil. Both of these required non-trivial positioning since I had only one real change at getting it right. One side of the foil came out better than the other, of course.

The recess area took the most work. The sides were integral to the main foil pieces but the top and bottom were add-ons. And the top back that went under the heater valve was a separate add-on. I had to do that twice after botching the 2" heater air hole the first time. Drilling holes in the .005 Titanium grade 2 foil is something that I find difficult, and I didn't have a 2" punch. Here are some comments I made in DanH's firewall thread:

It's easy to drill holes to 1/4" with normal drills. No problem at all.  --->


Aft bottom wing rivets

Ughh- back bottom wing skin rivets are might hard on the arms. Even two person is tough. Wish I had mighty chimpanzee arms. At least my tank pressure test stayed afloat overnight.



3/28/2022.  Issue #5,537.
  Boy, if today's edition doesn't motivate some folks I don't know what will! ;^)  Hope you had a nice weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

My RV Weekend ...folks chiming in


Now THAT'S Traveling....Paul Dye reporting

I'm in Sebring today to talk with an EAA Chapter at their banquet tonight, and spent some time with a pilot that just took delivery of a brand new RV-12iS at Van's factory - last week I think he said. He flew it back, basically down via Phoenix, than along I-10 and the gulf coast, and did the trip in just FIVE fuel stops. Now THAT is a capable LSA... diagonally across the country in only five fill-ups!

Great airplanes these RV's - no matter which end of the spectrum you choose!


Not officially airworthy yet...goatflieg

...but very, very close. Here's the obligatory teaser photo


General Shop Table - Overhaul ...HFS

Here are some pics of one of my general shop tables built back in 1981:

Size: 4' x 8' Working Height: 36"

Fixed center section, with replaceable outer "wings" made from pre-made, melamine covered 12" shelving.

21 drawers

5" locking rollers

"umbilical" for electrical power & air

I replace the wings every six months or so (two uses for each wing), and refurbish & repaint the center section on condition.

YMMV - and probably will.

If I got the sequence right - pics should be: Before, During, & After


Eagles Nest Projects Wisconsin (CABAA)

Two of our students received support from an awesome group called CABAA (Chicago Bus. Aviation Association) They help build and support local business aviation initiatives around the Chicagoland area. Two of our students Jesse Nau and Chole Rausch. Thanks to CABAA for supporting youth aviation.


Main Cable Crimp Find ...DanH

Found these while poking around in someone's cowl.


Scott Hersha Battery Clamp PIREP

Actually clamping the completed crimped terminal in my vice and giving it a good pul is what I refer to as the "Ford pull test" in my post #14. I always do this, even on the terminals I didn't modify - which is most of them. The only difference between my modified terminal and the unmodified ones is that the slit line is braised on the unmodified ones. This allows you to crimp at any position around the barrel of the terminal without worrying about it coming open. On my modified terminal, I needed to crimp with the slit line on one of the flats on the crimper die.


Terrible rattle in the rear!

Hi I get a bad rattle in the rear above 155kt, sounds like a bunch of spanners vibrating around in the rear bagage compartment but the plane is not vibrating, it got to be something In the exterior, anyone else having something similar?


Elevator balancing question

Need some help regarding my right elevator. Since I'm waiting for my wing kit to arrive, I decided to paint sections as I go. I balanced the elevator by drilling out some lead from the fairing-side counter weight to achieve a slightly nose down balance - knowing the paint would add some weight. Well, I took out way too much lead and now I'm nose high. The paint was heavier than I thought...

I can get balanced with adding approximately 90-100 grams of lead at the location of the lead weight.

I did not use a nut plate (on the fairing side) to install the counterweights - it's bolted on and safety wired - not an option to take off the current counterweight.

Solutions I've thought of but don't love:

1: Drill a hole in the fairing and add an epoxy (and maybe some ground up lead) slurry, put it nose down and hope it adheres to the fairing appropriately. Would be near impossible to fix if it didn't adhere. Also, fixing the hole would be a pain now that it's almost done being painted.

2: Pop rivet a bracket next to the current counterweight, fill with epoxy flux and then add lead until it's balanced. I included an example picture of a bracket taped to the location it would probably go. My concern is that if the pop rivets ever failed or the epoxy came loose, the control surface could jam.

3: Do nothing. Take comfort that I got one elevator balanced and build on.

Is there an easier way to balance an elevator? How should I proceed? Thanks!


Updated the Donations List ...over the weekend.

Up to 3/18.  Thanks for helping me keep the lights on (REMINDER: there are groups of folks that are exempt from donating - thanks for what you do/did).


Talk of DIY Paint Booths ....and pics


West Coast Formation Clinic WCFC 2022, April 29 - May 1

This year's West Coast Formation Clinic will be April 29 -May 1, 2022 in Madera, CA KMAE

We are behind time line for this event. Therefore, applications will be closed by the end of the day on April 3rd.

Like every year we are expecting that we will receive more applicants than we can safely support. The management team will evaluate applications and contact participants as soon as possible after the application period closes.

Please remember that the management team does this for fun and to help the RV-community be safer when performing formation flying. This is NOT our job; please give us time to figure out this complex event. There is a lot that goes into making this a safe event.

To apply and/or for additional details, visit the WCFC 2022 website. Click on application and submit your info. Please review all info on website. Please use the contact for any questions.

WCFC admin Team
[ed. I added this to the VAF Calendar.  v/r,dr]


Cowl Exit Size ....-4 (Bill E. PIREP)

Been a while since I built mine, but the exit size is pretty much just the shape of the cowl as it is. Not much you can change other than closing it up with fairings and such. I have an O-320 160HP,Vetterman 4-pipe and my CHT's are way below yours. I don't know how you are getting that high on the ground. RV-4's run pretty cool compared to some other series of RV's. here are a couple of pics of mine. make sure you baffling is tight also. I have fontal baffle dams that push air up and over to the rear cylinders and will make a difference.


FLAP POSITIONER - with Automatic Elevator Trim Positioning ...Rich Meske (advertiser)

Flap Positioning system features are often overlooked. Please take a fresh look at the three systems we offer, the FPS-Plus, Fps-Plus-nt, and FPS-Plus Reflex. Our systems offer the customer a variety of standard features. One feature is the customer's ability to program the system to accept 1 to 10 flap positions customizing it to your plane. There are no hardware flap stops. You can also reprogram this at any time. Another great feature of our FPS-Plus is the ability to automatically position your elevator trim for every new flap setting. This allows you to stay right on your glide path without ballooning up or sinking every time you change flap settings. This is a GREAT feature for IFR flight. Another good feature of the FPS-Plus is the ability to sense if the flap is bound up and not moving. It will sense this and remove power to your flap or elevator trim motors to prevent motor burn-up. Our FPS-Plus Reflex model was the first flap system available that will operate the Reflex Flaps properly. This is important for planes like the RV-10 and Murphy Rebel.

Don't forget about some of our many other standard products. Some of them are Upholstery Products, Center Consoles, Low Fuel Warning, Automatic Fuel Pump Controllers, The Smallest Annunciator, USB Chargers, Valve Extenders, Armrest Panels, Airspeed Switch, Fireproof Paint, Relay Boards with ARC Protection, Tip up Slider Modification, Handles, and more. For more details on this and more GREAT products, please visit www.aircraftextras.com


Milestone: Rudder trailing edge done ...Brian's -14A

Finished the section 7 rudder trailing edge. Came out straight after using two pieces of angle, match drilled and cleco'd during adhesive cure, then took out about every 5 holes a 0.5" hole to squeeze rivets though, and followed section 5.8.


Evacuating the Shop ...David in Colorado

Yesterday, I received an evacuation order due to a new wildfire in the vicinity. I shut everything down and left.

Thinking about it after the all-clear was called for my area, I realized that I'd left a potential hazard: the air compressor was topped off. Even with it shut off, the 60 gallon tank has a lot of residual energy. I figured it out once and it worked out to about 1/8 of a stick of TNT. My worry is that if the fire had gotten to the shop, and fire fighters were there, that could have exploded and caused injuries or even deaths.

It would not be hard to drain it. Disconnect the outlet hose and open the valve, and then it would have been safe. Something else to add to your list.



3/25/2022.  Issue #5,536.
  An early Thursday flight turned into, "Oh, there's Ross flying by in his RV-6", which turned into him saying "I could use some wing work".  Okey dokey (we've done this dozens of times over the years).  It was only .4 hrs, but we got in all the normal stuff (track).  Amazing airplanes.....and what we get to consider just another 'normal' RV flight.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.



9A Update ....PilotjohnS

Slider Windscreen Cutting Done
I think I have finished the windscreen cutting and fitting. I am happy with the fit. It seems I will only need hold downs in two places, one on each side.

I made a grid system using the rivet lines and one inch spacing to match the left and right sides.

There seems to be little details on how to fit the slider to the top panel. And not a very good picture in the plans or manual. In fact the plans pictures on sheet 41 and 43 are misleading and will cause a ruined windscreen if followed.

I could not find any pictures on the internet or even on VAF that shows the windscreen cut but before the fiberglassing. So here is my contribution. One may use the grid to compare to their windscreen cutting.

This is my first one, so I might be way off base with the fit, so use the data at your own risk.

Next steps:
*Install clips on each side
*Paint glare shield top and center support, probably a light grey
* install center support and egress handles on roll bar
*Sika flex windscreen to plane
*Remove side support clips after sika dries; patch holes and touch up inner glare shield paint
*Fiberglass windscreen and rear skirt
*Remove fiberglass and finish off of plane
*Bond fiberglass skirts to plane using sika

If anyone has any comments or suggestion, i am all ears; I havent done this before


Thrust angle ...rocket

Have my PV (I)O360 temporarily mounted to start laying out FW stuff. Haven't measured it yet but there's a pretty noticeable right lateral thrust angle. Searching through the plethora of docs, I didn't find anything related. Could someone steer me to the right place or otherwise help me out here?

Did a tight-line measurement and calculated 1.2 deg right. Vertical basically 0 (pre-sag). A quick calc tells me a couple of 1/8 shims at the left isolators will only get me to ~2.4 degrees. Am I overthinking this?


Welcome Hartzell Propellor...new advertiser

[ed. They will be setting up a forums account shortly I believe.  v/r,dr]

Hartzell Propeller is excited to be a part of the VAF community and happy to be advertising in support of the many RV builders out there. As Hartzell continues to develop and test new propellers for the experimental market it is extremely important to us that we are available and accessible to help educate and answer questions regarding the propellers. We remember and continue to strive toward what Dick VanGrusven said many years ago;

"No propeller we've tried has given us better performance or reliability than the Hartzell. They give us the ability to get the best out of our airplanes".

We do not take that responsibility lightly and look forward to assisting any and all RV builders with their Hartzell questions to help in your pursuit of the "RV Grin"!


Boost pump pressure

I purchased my RV7a recently. It has a low pressure fuel system in a Lycombing 0-360. It was unused for nearly four years.

I had about 8 hours of use after purchase when the main fuel pump started reading low around 2 Psi. This was noted in flight after turning off the boost pump. Switching the boost pump back on brought it back to 4-5 PSI.
I replaced the main fuel pump it now makes a 5 psi without boost.

The boost pump makes about 2 PSI at cold start up.
This below the green arc. Is the boost pump working ok at 2 PSI or does it need to be higher at start up?


Wonderful van's cnc ...cgeyman 9A

Fun putting wings together- aileron brackets carefully machined. Cool



Update from Classic Aero Designs

Hello VAF,

I wanted to update everyone on a few improvements we are making in light of the long lead times (currently about 12 months). Here are the main bullet points:
About 6 months ago, we hired 2 new key employees that are getting closer and closer to being fully trained.
Over the past year we've been working on a complete rebuild of our internal purchasing and inventory control systems.
We are now working with an outside vendor to outsource some of our sheet metal part production to increase capacity.
We are now going to offer a temporary seat option for those who are ready to fly before their order is finished (details below).
Some others are still in the works.

As far as the temporary seats go, they are based on requests from our customers. They are a basic set of cushions that the customer can purchase and use until their final seats are finished. They use the stock Vans backrest frame, and are held in place with Velcro. We encourage customers to pass them along to other builders after they are not needed (possibly at a reduced price to offset some of the purchase price).

Initially we will offer these for the RV-14 with others to possibly follow based on what we learn as we go. We plan to offer them in black cloth, and keep them in stock once the initial run is complete (in the next few weeks). Pricing and information should be on the website in the next few days.

We know the lead time is a big inconvenience to customers, and we are doing our best to move back to a more "normal" production schedule. We are slowly ramping up the number of orders we can ship per week. In the mean time we appreciate your understanding as we try to take care of everyone.



3/24/2022.  Issue #5,535.
Thirty knot winds at 2,000' above my home field Wednesday had me fiddling with a pretty low GS w/o getting too close to a stall.  Slowed to 30 kts over the ground before I got bored and started thinking about the 90* 15kt crosswind I was going to have to deal with in the flare.  Worked out OK, but as anyone familiar with landing on RWY35 at 52F with a left xwind knows, it's going to be a knife fight in a phone booth there in the flare.  Updated my screens OS to v9.00 after I landing, only 3 months after it came out <g>.
  Felt good to get off the surface and see non-simulated blue.  I know the pic below shows 32kts GS...you're gonna have to just believe me ;^).
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

click for 2,560 x 1920 pixel enlargement


Paul's 'My RV Weekend'

Flew the Valkyrie up to the northern end of the Willamette Valley (OR) to do a few things, including Helo flying and some video stuff for Kitplanes - got some nice views of Crater Lake and Mount Shasta... 2080 hours on the Val - smooth and fast! Didn't get a chance to drop in on the Mothership - hopefully next time.


SB00026 nut torque

Q: I'm completing SB 00026 and Van's references the Rotax Heavy Maintenance manual for the torque for the 8mm nut on the carb shaft. I, for the life of me, cannot find the value on page 73-00-00-2 (or anywhere else for that matter). Anybody know where the reference is or what the torque is?



JD Air Parts, new products.

Hey Everyone, I wanted to take a few minutes and share some news on new products and improvements made to others.

Our dual bearing yoke for all tailwheel RV's has been modified slightly. Over the past few years I've been studying tailwheel RV's and discovered that the fork shaft on most RV's is not vertical. This includes the stock Van's assembly and other aftermarket units. This appears to be caused by weight on the tail. It is very slight and most will not notice. As a result of the research, we have modified the attachment angle to get the fork shaft vertical. This effort was successful. All yokes from the first of the year have included this modification including those for the RV14.

We now have fuel rings that go over the fuel cap opening. in The rings display the gallons and the type of fuel as required to get your ticket. This eliminates the need to have the caps engraved and provides protection for your paint around the fuel opening. The rings are held in place with a double sided tape. Designer Myron Nelson, has had these on his RV10 for several years. Even in the heat of AZ they have held strong. These are available for the RV10, RV14 and RV7/8. They come in Black with white lettering or White with Black lettering. If there is enough interest, we will consider doing them for the 9, 4 and 3.

Finally, we now offer the steering link with a blue anodized housing. The very popular drain fairing and dual port vent fittings (guaranteed to give you a knot or two of additional speed) are now available in natural aluminum or anodized blue.
Shortly after Sun N' Fun we will offering the long awaited grab handles for the side by side sliders and RV8. These are machined to perfectly match the contour of the roll bar. They can be easily installed in planes under construction or those already flying.

And, after a long absence we will have another tow bar available. This will be available very soon.

Please visit us at www.jdair.com. Thanks everyone for the support. If you have any questions you can contact me at jdairparts@gmail.com.


Wire stripping frustrations

I'm getting frustrated with this Ideal Stripmaster, which is supposed to be a great quality tool. Or maybe I should be mad at the wires. All wire is Tefzel (22759), which I assumed was all identical, but obviously it's not, and I triple-checked the wire gauge stamped on the wires and in online references.

26 AWG in Van's supplied elevator trim tab wiring harness - clean strip

24 AWG in Van's supplied Ray Allen T3-12A elevator trim tab servo wires - 50% chance of clean strip (see second and third pics)

22 AWG SteinAir supplied single conductor - clean strip

22 AWG inside FlyLEDs supplied shielded multi-conductor for "The Original" kit - 0% chance of clean strip

20 AWG FlyLEDs supplied single conductor in wiring harness for "The Original" kit - 0% chance of clean strip (Paul, what's going on here?)

Using the next smaller slot in the tool creates the obvious problem of possibly damaging the conductor wires.

Is there something wrong with my wire stripper? In your experience, does the source of Tefzel matter THIS MUCH? Is it common for the wire stripper to leave a tag of insulation like the second picture, and if so, what is your advice for dealing with it?


Bad Crimping on Main Cables

My airplane partner and I are the 3rd owners of our RV-7A and we have had it for 5 years. For the last 3 years, the engine has been difficult to start, barely turning the prop before the engine reluctantly turns over. Obviously a battery issue. Gets about 6 months before it starts to drag again. Bad battery? Bad starter or alternator? Standard Odyssey PC680. Put it on a trickle charger which seems to sort of help for a little while. Different A&P's have looked it over and after confirming all connections are tight, they all conclude it's either the battery or the starter going out.

Earlier this year I was watching an EAA webinar from Vic Syracuse about buying a used EAB and the need for a pre-buy inspection. Vic Syracuse also happened to be the DAR who initially signed off our airplane! One of the things that he said that stuck out in the video was that when he does a pre-buy, he has the cowling off and he tugs on the different cables to check the crimping of the terminals onto the wires/cables. Could it be that easy of an answer to our problem?

First I looked on the VAN's web site under support and there is actually a Notification and Letter affecting all models of RVs, dated Oct 18, 2006. It states that "It has come to the attention of Van's Aircraft that some #2 battery cable terminals may have been improperly crimped." more info... and "If one or both ends fail, return the cable(s) to Vans and we will provide replacements."

I went to hangar, removed the cowling and started to do the procedure that Vic said he does in a pre-buy and yes, you guessed it - not one but two terminals had loose crimping and the #2 AWG cable easily pulled out of the terminal. I called and talked to Kevin Miller at Vans. They don't do the replacements, but we talked about what to do to fix the problem. Very helpful and he also provided a wiring harness diagram.

Now to the end of this overly long discussion. I bought some new terminals. I also bought a slaging tool from Home Depot for $40 and proceeded to crimp on the new terminals with some shrink wrap over the connection. I reattached the terminals to both the Master and Starter Relays/Contacters/Solenoids (whatever you want to call them). Problem solved!! Engine fired right up perfectly. Took it for a test flight and monitored the voltmeter. A very steady 14.1 to 14.2 volts instead of bouncing around from 13.8 to 14.3 volts like it also had been doing.

Moral of the story - If your engine is difficult to start, you may not have a battery problem or a starter problem. It may be as simple as bad crimping on your main power cables from the battery to the Master and Starter relay/contacter/solenoid. Hope this helps anyone with a similar issue. Thanks to Vic Syracuse, EAA webinar series, and Kevin Miller at Vans!
Brian - RV-7A - N947CB


I just love answers like this ...made me smile

By my calculations....the angle at the top is the arctangent of 0.625"/2.125" or 16.38966 degrees. That's 0.28605 radians to you brainy aches out there.

Hope that helps.



3/23/2022.  Issue #5,534.
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Something About This Engine Pic

....just made me think it needed to be today's splash image. <g> dr


Updated RV-14 V-Speeds Documentation ...mothership

(Greg Hughes @ Van's)
We have updated the RV-14/14A V-Speeds specification document and posted the new version to our website in the RV-14 Service Information area.

This version (Rev 3) adds best-glide data. It also modifies the specification for Never-Exceed speeds to include both indicated and true airspeed values. Owners with modern EFIS systems should configure their EFIS to display both values. An explanation of the reason for this is provided in the document.


It Flies....agent4573 on the 16th


Last Piece of Skin ...PaulvS 6A Update

"...The fwd top skin is the only remaining skin to fit and I again used the method from Gil Alexander on VAF to pilot drill the skeleton 1/16" for all the rivets, fit the skin, back drill the skin 1/16" from underneath, then final drill #40 and cleco from the outside. This method ensures correct placement of rivets through all layers, but it is time consuming. I had installed the cockpit floor first before fitting the top skin, so as to keep everything rigid. It was a 2 person job with my wife sitting on the spar web with a bucking bar and me laying underneath on my back with the rivet gun pointing up. Sounds kinda kinky."


Help my Buddy Smokey Ray Find a -4

...he is currently w/o an RV.  Let's fix that.  dr


Starter Contactor Resolution ...Terry Shortt

"...I wanted to circle back to this with a resolution. I talked to Kevin at builder support and he confirmed that yes, the print is correct.

Other reasonable optioned include; foregoing the nutplate and just do a fiber lock nut on the backside, or center the nutplate on the next rivet hole down.

I was originally planning option 2, but once I really started looking this area over I determined that it's the same situation on a nutplate to the BATT contactor as well as on the fuel line doubler. I also considered how bad it would suck to have to change this on the road by myself not be able to change this without a helper.

Long story short, I ended up just building it to print rather than creating a cascading set of modifications.

However, I did oversize the firewall doubler enough that I could pick up a second existing rivet instead of drilling another shy pitch abomination. I also made it a little wider, which allowed me to fudge the location of the fuel line hole about 3/8" inbd and down to solve for the conflict with the starter lug that so many people have warned me about."


RV-6 Rebuild Project Update ...jamlip

Pulled my old radio setup and installed a new Garmin GTR200B. Long-term aim is to fit a GPS 175 and get the RV-6 IFR-equipped for LPV approaches.


FLAP POSITIONER - with Automatic Elevator Trim Positioning ...Rich Meske (advertiser)

Flap Positioning system features are often overlooked. Please take a fresh look at the three systems we offer, the FPS-Plus, Fps-Plus-nt, and FPS-Plus Reflex. Our systems offer the customer a variety of standard features. One feature is the customer's ability to program the system to accept 1 to 10 flap positions customizing it to your plane. There are no hardware flap stops. You can also reprogram this at any time. Another great feature of our FPS-Plus is the ability to automatically position your elevator trim for every new flap setting. This allows you to stay right on your glide path without ballooning up or sinking every time you change flap settings. This is a GREAT feature for IFR flight. Another good feature of the FPS-Plus is the ability to sense if the flap is bound up and not moving. It will sense this and remove power to your flap or elevator trim motors to prevent motor burn-up. Our FPS-Plus Reflex model was the first flap system available that will operate the Reflex Flaps properly. This is important for planes like the RV-10 and Murphy Rebel.

Don't forget about some of our many other standard products. Some of them are Upholstery Products, Center Consoles, Low Fuel Warning, Automatic Fuel Pump Controllers, The Smallest Annunciator, USB Chargers, Valve Extenders, Armrest Panels, Airspeed Switch, Fireproof Paint, Relay Boards with ARC Protection, Tip up Slider Modification, Handles, and more. For more details on this and more GREAT products, please visit www.aircraftextras.com



3/22/2022.  Issue #5,533.
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

First Flight ...from the my RV weekend thread


Milestone: Engine Start ...Draker


RV-12/RV-12iS flaperon hinge (rod end) adjustment ...JohnD.TF4 update

Solution - Roll Trim
I've fixed roll trim on several RV-12s so perhaps I can share my experience:

As far as the cause, there are so many factors involved in a small roll anomaly that it is essentially impossible to nail it down to one. Just a few include: the clocking of where the thread starts on the bearing, minor twist induced in the flapperon during assembly, twisting the wingtip when drilling the outboard skin, not aligning the torque tubes/flapperons properly when drilling the torque tube, and consistency of the trailing edge bend (This is addressed in section 5 of the build instructions.) If your goal is a perfect zero roll in cruise any anomaly in these will change your roll. Keep in mind also that your roll trim will also change depending on your lateral weight and balance (e.g. big guy in the pilot's seat flying solo will roll left vs. 95 pound guy flying solo will roll neutral or to the right)

Yes, changing the depth of the bearing has an effect on the roll trim. 1 revolution on both bearings in only one flapperon is roughly equivalent to 1 degree per second of roll. If you need more you can adjust the other flapperon as well. As long as you keep the bearing within... say 2 revolutions of the original spec, there should still be plenty of thread engagement to take the flight loads. This means that you can adjust up to 4 degrees per second of roll if you adjust both flapperons. Any more than that and I would say that there is something more seriously wrong with your flight control rigging than a normal roll drift.

I hope this helps,


9A Status Report ...PilotjohnS

Canopy....still <g>.


Flyhud's RV-4 Avionics Shelf


Optional access panel craniums up...HAL Pilot -14A

Installing my optional access panels today. On seeing the mess I am making it would have been smarter to cover the canopy pistons to keep them from getting contaminated.


My RV Weekend ...more submits



3/21/2022.  Issue #5,532.
  Spent Thu evening and portions of Fri/Sat in a cage fight with a 7yr old laptop that shat its pantaloons (mostly OK now but suspect).  Re-tasked another computer that was enjoying semi-retirement; loved it up some and got back in the game.  This mixed in with two part time G450 sims Fri/Sat made for an 'interesting' 72 hours.  [RV-6 looks sad faced at me from across the hangar. ;^)]
  Might anybody reading this work for HP, Dell, IBM, etc?  It is time for a new primary development laptop for me that can be both 1) a road warrior and 2) back at HQ be easily docked into big monitors, keyboards and trackpads so I can more easily continue my evil plan of world domination small business.  I'm looking for solutions from folks at places that sell Windows-based laptops with the good gouge.  Let's collab (as the kids say).
  Good, lengthy edition today chock-full of heart healthy RV vitamins and minerals for your enjoyment.  Hope your weekend was nice, your computers aren't mad at you and the weather was perfect for RVating.  ;^)
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Assembly Complete ...Avoca1us 9A

Things left to do:  Calibrate fuel senders, calibrate magnetometer, run engine.  1121 lbs.  IO 360 M1B, Hartzell prop, full Garmin panel, Classic Aero interior.


Rivet pitch problem- starter contactor

Hey guys- I was laying out the contactors this afternoon, and ran into something odd.

Per print, the most inboard nut plate picks up an existing rivet hole for the lower leg and then you're supposed to match drill thru the upper leg, but that would put the hole way below min. rivet spacing per mil-spec with the next rivet up in the run. This row of rivets goes through the firewall, then the vertical angle behind which ties in to lost of other important stuff, so it's kind of a big deal

I know that manufacturing engineering take precedence over mil-spec, and I've given that advise myself, but this just doesn't look right. If I drill it per print, there will only be about 7/32 center to center between these 2 rivets, which is less that 1/2 the Mil-Spec requirement.

I'm inclined to just skip the nutplate, put a nut on the back side, and live with the fact that if it ever dies on the road, swapping it will be a two person job. But, I looked at a lot of build logs online and I see that a bunch of people have just lived with how this turns out.

I'm curious if anybody has talked to Van's about it?


DIY Smart Smoke ...Av8rRob

Hey guys, I thought I would share my latest project in case anyone wants to make their smoke systems bit more functional as I did. I was inspired by Mike Bullock's design for his RV-7 smoke system so I went about making this simple system with the plan of having it utilize a microswitch on my stick and provide audio feedback into my headset (having a led light is also easy to add too). This project will set you back about $70.


Is this some kind of corrosion?

When I bought my kit from the previous owner, he had not removed any of the blue plastic film from any of the parts he had not worked on...except the roll bar frames (unless they came without it). Starting to do the prep work on these parts and I'm wondering about their condition. I've tried isopropyl alcohol and MEK and neither will touch it. When they're primed, I prep with alumiprep (actually, Bonderite C-IC 33 Aero). Will that be adequate prep for these parts or do they need something else?


Bird Strike ...WingnutWick

Today's adventure involved the ol' lady flying our new 10 into a flock of large birds and taking one on the wing, outboard of the fuel tank. No change in flight characteristics on the RTB and not a direct hit on the rib, though some buckling goes up to the rib. Hopefully mostly cosmetic-ish in regards to structural damage (as cosmetic as damage to a wing can be I mean).

So.....sighhhh....where to go from here from those in the know. Anyone know someone in CA (or nearby) who is good at repairing something like this. Open to suggestions and advice.

Thanks as always.


Vetterman exhaust installed ...griffg 7A

I installed my Vetterman exhaust pipes yesterday and I am very happy with the way they fit. I have the standard throttle cable bracket (i.e. unmodified) which has given me what I consider sufficient clearance to the exhaust pipes.

The horizontal support tubes are angled so that they go around the back of the nose gear socket with a slight curve in the rubber hose with clearance to the engine mount.


Panel Upgrade ....hangar7racing RV-3

I purchased my first RV and it is a 3. Handsome things I was not happy with so decided to go ahead and do the things I want. The panel is getting a complete make over.

Still have a few things to do, it happy with it so far.


Fairing Crack Update ...Bill B

Damaged areas were hollowed out down to and slightly into the corners of the plexi with an oscillating multi-tool sander and filled with three layers of cloth and a micro slurry overcoat, then sanded down leaving only a slight bulge at the corners to avoid cutting too far into the repair patch. I'm happy with the results.

I have noticed a few patches along the length of the fairing which are not cracked or delaminating but are showing some raw/undersaturated glass ply on the outer surface with fraying and pin-holing of the weave. I went to address these last evening and got a rude surprise. Masked off the plexiglass, wiped down the fairing and brushed on a skim coat of neat epoxy that I planned to carefully finish-sand prior to paint. The resin coat beaded up on the fairing like water on a waxed car hood. Too late, I realized the Plexus polish I was using since flying had contaminated the fiberglass below the windscreen.

I managed to wipe the mess off before it set up, and now I'm wondering what product and process is likely safe and effective for prepping this area properly. I believe I need a solvent degreaser followed by some sanding maybe followed by another solvent wipe to surface prep this area for an epoxy sealer coat to fill the dry weave areas and pinholes. Can I get this at the auto parts store?

I was so proud of the contours and blended edges achieved on this fairing but it looks like I got the layup too dry somehow when I squeegied the resin into the cloth with a credit card. Then, in the 18 months of flying since then, I contaminated the surface with windshield polish. This is turning into a disappointment/challenge I didn't expect.


Baffle Mod ...wirejock resurrects


Exhaust tube spring retainer weldment

During a post-flight inspection, I found that the outboard Cyl #3 spring retainer "clip" has broken off of the exhaust tube. It was in service for 150 hours.

Upon inspection, I found that the spring was successfully captured by the safety wire (and was in good condition). One clip weldment point looked to be non-existent.. as if it wasn't welded onto the tube at all. The other weldment point looked to have given way to fatigue and left a small hole in the tube.

Has anyone else had this happen? Thoughts about patching the hole, then welding on a new clip and calling it a day? Any concerned about the longevity of that solution due to the heat cycling? It seems the newer tubes have their clips welded on the top and bottom sides...rather than what looks to be a tack weld on the top (see 3rd photo). Waiting to hear from Support.


Crack Update ...CD.

My 1/8" acrylic drill bit from Spruce came in today and I stop drilled the crack. It appears to have turned out pretty good. I went extremely slow. Now I guess I need to fill/epoxy... Do I need to not fly until that is completed?


My RV Weekend ...folks chiming in


Flaperon hinge (rod end) adjustment

What is the effect on roll trim, of making a half turn OUT on the LEFT aileron hinge rod ends?

The reason I ask is that I have found the hinge rod ends are not equally set, and I have a slight roll. After reading a bunch of posts about roll trim, I've checked all the components and trailing edge of top wing skin. The only real assymetry I see is those rod lengths and the relative heights of the flaperons while in the neutral position (eyeballed with a straight edge running chordwise off the trailing edge of the top wing skin).

Flying RV-12 I didn't build. I don't know if the difference was unintentional or oversight.


Bike ...Richard 7A

This is how I transport my bike. I use a block and the rear wheel skewer to stabilize my bike and keep the chainring off the seat pan. Works great because it's a lightweight road bike.


Panel Shot ...blytle

Been flying my recently finished panel for a few weeks now. Steve at Aero Performance Specialties in Chino did a fantastic job.



3/18/2022.  Issue #5,531.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

UT97 Happy Canyon ...Vlad (box checked)

I was building my confidence for two years. Finally conquered Happy Canyon UT97


Tip: EZ removal of firewall mount battery

I've always struggled with getting my PC680 battery out of the firewall mounted battery box. There is no place to get a hold of the battery and I just barely have enough room to lift the battery straight up (because of other things mounted above the battery).

I made a simple battery lift strap and it worked like a charm. I used a couple of small L-brackets that I covered with heat shrink/electrical tape. I drilled a hole in each leg of the bracket. I than screwed one leg of each bracket down using the screws that attach the electrical connections. I ran some 1/4 rope that I had laying around though the upright leg of each bracket.

The old battery lifted right out - easy peasy. Then it was just the usual maneuvering the battery to clear the engine mount.

I can't believe that it took me 13 years of working on the plane to figure this one out.

P.S. I actually didn't even have to make the brackets. I found a couple of pieces of bent scrap metal with holes already drilled to the right size.


3D printed Tension Gauge

I was getting ready to nerd out and make a 3D tension gauge instead of doing the rational thing and buying one ($$).


Shop Porn

While waiting months for my first kit, I built up three "Ron Paulk" inspired work tables. Two are 24"x72" and 36" tall. Both on full swivel lockable casters. The third table was made 24" x 30" for my DRDT-2. The work location of the DRDT-2 is the same height as the other two tables. Should give lots of flexibility.


It happens . . . .

Once earned my living as a professional mechanic and very rarely lost a tool. After entering a career as an engineer I would lose a tool every 15 yrs or so. It happened after my 7 got to the hangar for final assembly. Some how a 9/16 Craftsman combination wrench had been misplaced. 8 months later I just ordered a new one. About 10 months after that I was doing an extensive first condition inspection and found it in the aft pocket of the wing root cavity. I inspected all and it had not been moving around in there, no dings or dents as one would expect.

Sometimes it takes a while to find a lost tool. It most often reappears when the new one arrives in the mail.


Cloning ...TASEsq

Ended up making a little mount tray similar to the Vans GMU22 one.


Wes H Panel Update

Yes, I started with the 310 panel and although it's a beautiful product it takes up way more leg room than I was willing to give up. My center upright console is machined from billet aluminum and I modeled it to match up perfectly to the center armrest. I also machined billet side panels (pictured but unfortunately laying on their sides) that run from the center upright console all the way down the fwd portion of the tunnel. To save weight almost every wall thickness is .0625". The vents are 3D printed "carbon fiber" and thread milled to accept Aerosport's vents. The back of them are angled to match the angle of standard Van's naca vent (without the flange) and have a 2" gap to allow for a scat tube connection. I've had everything installed in the plane and fits and feels very nice.



3/17/2022.  Issue #5,530.
Got to do seat support in the G-V sim Wednesday for the first time.  282nd client sim session - previous 281 all in the Phenom sim.  Very un-RV like but still amazing tech.  I think I like the RV-6 better though <g>.  Hoping to get some RV quality time off the surface this week.
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Time saving tip, inventory your tools often

I pranked myself pretty good today, so I thought I'd share a time-saving build tip. But I'm not much of a lecturer, so I'll just say that if (a) you finish a component like a flap and are happy with it, but (b) are wondering why it seems weirdly heavy on one end, and (c) why is it making a sliding and thumping sound when I move it, and (d) just where is my tungsten bucking bar, anyway?

...in that case you may have already missed the time-saving opportunity. But you may have found a new opportunity to practice your drilling-out-rivets skill. Always a silver lining, right?


Wiring for dual magneto switches and a start button

...wjb PIREP

I have two mag switches plus a push button for the starter ... love it and it works like a champ. Schematic attached; starter will only activate when the L mag is on, R mag is off.

You'll need to modify the Surefly side to properly disable/enable it on start if need more than a tie to ground...


Alternator charging intermittently

Need your help/ideas on what to prioritize to root cause my issue; alternator itself, voltage regulator, or wiring?

So I pulled my tail off of my RV4 to add doublers that were necessary on horizontal and vert stab. Plane hasn't flown since mid or early February. I had to crawl around in the tailcone which I figured could have knocked some wires loose but nothing found. I also added a bracket between alternator and an empty starter bolt. Otherwise I didn't touch the charging system while I was down for maintenance.

I planned to test fly last Friday but when I fired it up and went through checks, I was showing a draw and 11.5 volts or so, not 14.5 to 14.7 like usual so I pulled the cowl to test field and battery connection on alternator and any loose wires in tailcone. Everything tested fine but I noticed the ground wire coming off the shielded field wire and the alternator ground (both at alternator end) looked like they could have a break in the wire due to prior owner performing a weak splice. Well I decided I'd run the plane at least to see if it was charging and low and behold it was. I didn't fly it but ground ran it for 5 to 10 minutes charging the whole time even after flipping off my alternator switch and master and flipping back on.

I cut ground and power (for field only) back and spliced on new wires and better protected them. I plugged it all in and fired it up last night and no charge! Ran same test procedure of field and 12v at alternator back to battery. Now this time I wasn't confident I was getting power to the positive field wire. I would see 12v but then id move around and seemed to read 0 then move more and get 12v. Not sure if my multimeter probes weren't getting into the plug or if I had a wiring issue. So decided to chase the field wire back. Went to voltage regulator and it seemed to have 12v when my master was switched on. Tested my alternator switch because it also seemed like it could be a culprit but it tested fine. Go back out to field wire at the alternator and it tested fine.

Fired up and the thing is charging again (like after my testing on Friday). Flipped alternator and master and did numerous restarts and it was showing 14.5v on one EFIS and 14.3 on the other (not sure why they differed and I didn't notice if they differed before or not).

So should I be pulling the denso 14184 alternator that has fewer than 30 hours on it? Or should I be checking voltage regulator and wiring to see if there is a break somewhere else? How do I test voltage regulator and wiring for this intermittent issue?


Pmag conversion from lycoming Impulse coupling

Does anyone know what lycomings service instruction means when they say the new magneto studs need to have 25in lbs of drive torque? I am replacing my Impulse magneto with a pmag so I'm deleting the extension and studs. I have the new shorter studs and loctite 290 for the install. Now I need to figure out what torque it requires. It is a blind hole and I do not want to damage the accessory case. Link to their service instruction: (closest thing to what I'm attempting to do).


Which wires are fat, which are skinny? ...-14

To the many fans of AeroElectric connection, you know Bob Nuckolls advocates separation as a primary means of reducing the problems associated with Electromagnetic Compatibility. For example, he says to "keep fat wires (which tend to have strong, noisy currents) seperated from the skinny ones (which tend to be avionics and instrumentation). Half a page later he says "Avionics and audio systems should not share wire bundles with DC power distribution".

In the interests of trying to follow this advice, I'm trying to plan how I'd bundle the wires leaving the panel aftward, and in modern RVs, there's a lot of them. Here's a few:
trim servo power and position sensor
autopilot servo power and contol
transponder antenna
comm antenna
GPS antenna
strobe lights
nav lights
landing lights
pitot heat
magnetometer, OAT, fuel senders

Down the fuselage, you basically only get two bundles. Down each wing, you might get two bundles. Which wires are victims susceptible to interference? Which are the antagonist wires? Mr. Nuckolls mentions some, but his list is hardly exhaustive. For example, are the wires to the roll AP servo victims or antagonists? I've heard it both ways. Are they DC power distribution, or are they avionics? Should you be seperating the AP power wires from the AP control wires? Where do antennas fit into this? Would these go into the fat bundle or the skinny bundle?

More generally, how would you plan your bundles to minimize noise issues? What general rules of thumb do you follow? I dare say Mr. Nuckolls' book leaves more questions than answers on the topic.


Center Console and Armrest

Added a center console and armrest for my RV-12iS. Replaces the factory flap motor cover/cup holder. Provides a fair amount of storage with two padded covers that also function as an armrest.

Also replaced the twill carpet seat cushions with genuine naugahyde.


DIY Oxygen ...wcalvert

For those of you considering an O2 system and are interested in a DIY version, here is my current setup. I'm sure this has been done before, if so then another take on a working system.


Cylinder, Alum. Type D, CGA870, 1502ED (1) New $90

Cannula, Salter Labs 16SOFT-4 4 Foot $10 for 5

Drive CHAD Evolution Electronic Oxygen Conserver (1) $200

LINE2design Oxygen Cylinder Sleeve Bag $25

The Conserver is the heart of the system and claims to increase the duration of a bottle by 5X. The device can be set for 1 to 6 liter "equivalent" flow and seems to work well in the plane. Notice that the company sent a "Motion" version which adjusts for user movement, not something you need in the plane, but easily bypassed.

It's mounted on the aft side of the flap drive support in the cargo area with two velcro straps. Bit of a challenge to reach in flight but doesn't flow O2 unless you're breathing, so no foul starting the flight with it turned on.

I also added a finger SO2 meter (find those anywhere for $35) and a CO detector:

AV8 Inspector AV8-CO-01 Carbon Monoxide Monitor for Aviation $110

The local dive shop with refill the bottle for $25 and the welding supply will likely do it for a few bucks less (the dive shop was able to fill the CGA870 fitting just fine).

Considering the cost of off the shelf units from other suppliers, this is a reasonably priced system that works well.


Carbon Rail Covers

Does anybody know where to find carbon fiber rail covers as shown in the attached picture?



3/16/2022.  Issue #5,529.
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

First Flight ...Randy Hood (vids in post)

On Thursday the 10th of March N316KC took to the air on her maiden flight. All went well except for a few minor squawks. Needless to say I am beyond happy. Now its time to get the 40 hours flown off!!!

I would like to give thanks to my RV buddies who have taken me under their wing, Pun intended.
Darrin, RV10 driver who has helped me through my many struggles and was instrumental in the wiring of my 7.
Harry, rocket driver, who was the mentor that taught me what a firewall forward should look like, one that would make anyone proud.

Jeff, 7 driver who kept me motivated with his humor and the occasional ride in his immaculate 7.
Also to the three of them who set the bar for greasy landings!!


Workbench PIREP ...Scott H.

I also like a 37" high working height, and my latest work bench top is 78" X 30" with 3" overhangs for clamping made from 3/4" plywood for the top surface, with a 3/4" base surface underneath, inside the 3" overhang. It's a very solid work bench and is mounted on full swivel, locking ball bearing wheels so I can move it around my workshop easily.


Helpers - That's Gonna Leave a Mark

Who has two thumbs and gets to drill out every wing rib/rear spar rivet and rebuild the rear spar? This guy!

Unfortunately, some miscommunication with a helper who wanted to try his hand at building ended up with a ruined rear spar today (as per Van's). I was just at the point of getting ready to start riveting on the top wing skins, and the last step was to dimple the rear spar flanges. Since he had already dimpled all of the ribs with the pneumatic squeezer, I walked him through the rear spar and set him loose. Unfortunately, my comment of "don't dimple next to this inboard doubler, because those are already dimpled" didn't stick. With 99% of the dimples done, all of the sudden I hear a monsterous thwack! He had tried to dimple the holes next to the doubler. There's no room here, and the pneumatic squeezer popped over the top of the fork of the doubler and slammed BIG TIME into the rear spar flange. It was so fast that it literally pushed the dimple die through the flange. Ouch.

It's a bummer, but given everything going on in the world these days, there is just no way to justify getting upset about an oops on something as trivial as an airplane. I'll get a new rear spar (only $45, but waiting to see how bad shipping will be) and do a "part II" of getting things ready for the wing skins.

Lesson learned - I should have taped off the areas to stay away from. It's a lot to ask of someone to remember every instruction when building is new to them. I suppose the lesson could easily be not to let new people help, but nah.


Houston area monthly lunch (March 2022)

Heyo folks! The third Saturday draws near, so let's sit down and get some food and chat handled. This time we'll rotate back to Hooks for burgers at the Aviator's Grill.

When: Saturday, 3-19, 11:30 AM
Where: Aviator's Grill at Hooks airport (KDWH)


Rudder tie wrap clip wrong rivet

(-14) The instructions on 07-05 call for a LP4-5, which I set from the clip side. This little nub is all I had on the other side.


Stall Warning Adjustment ...Bob Y reply

(-12) If the stall switch is the same on the 9 as the 12, the stall vein operates a microswitch, which is adjustable via screws. To reduce the chance of moving the switch out of a ligament, I insert a thin metal strap - actually a piece of the banding material from one of the shipments - in the opening between the vein and the wing cutout on the side in which I want to bend the vein. If it does get out of alignment, you'll have to remove the access panel below the stall warning vein, loosen the screws on the microswitch, readjust and retighten the screws. See KAI section 16, attached.


Making it Fit ...Smokey -4

That's a good technique and also works with airline roller bags, tool boxes and even small air compressors! Installing tiedown straps in the baggage area frees up the rear seat also.
Removing the rear seat altogether (and rear stick) allow you even greater flexibility and a surprisingly large area for carrying larger, bulky items like bicycles. When I built my 4, I planned on Super Cub level utility in the backcountry including forward and rear baggage capabilities. I installed my battery on the firewall allowing the battery box to become a small forward baggage area aka RV8. My tools, canopy cover, survival kit, and the cover has bungee tiedowns for a small back-pack between your legs.

Lots of traveling over many years proved necessity to be a mother of invention!


Martin R's RV-10 Panel CAD

Onshape is free as long as your files are public. It's a cloud based CAD tool, no installs, any browser is good enough. Create an account and clone my project if you like.



3/15/2022.  Issue #5,528.
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Bench Mod

My second EAA bench was square, with a Lazy Susan on top. the Lazy Susan is triangular with a bench grinder, drill press and belt sander. It has worked out really well.


Thoughts on Panel

Getting ready to pull the trigger on my RV7A tip-up panel re-do. Would like to get some opinions. Only unseen things are I can think of are that I will use an AFS ACM and will continue to fly with a Stratus to provide backup AHRS and ADSB-In for the iPads.

Not looking for debate on the ACM, I've read the posts and have flown electric jets for years so not worried about the breakers or single point of failure. Really looking for PVI items more than anything. Thanks.

Launch them spears boys!! (..and girls)


Baffle Paint

I had all the individual parts powder coated (as well as some other FWF parts like the oil cooler mount pieces) and then just followed the plans. However, I have since removed the engine (twice actually) and removed the baffle sections (quarters) largely intact.


RV4 Back seat baggage?

I was playing around with putting baggage in the back seat of my RV4.
The picture below is what I came up with.
It is very secure and shifts only slightly when I man handle it.
I haven't flown with the bag there yet, I wanted you opinions first.
#1, is it safe? Have you guys thought of things that I haven't thought of.
Thanks for your opinions.


Crack in 7A Windshield

So I rolled my 7A out this afternoon to take her for a flight and found this crack in my windshield. I don't know when it happened. The last flight was 2 weeks ago with my wife and was about 2.5 hours. No extreme temps or turbulence. And I didn't notice it then, so I don't think it was there. The temps did get down to the low 20's last night from low 70's yesterday afternoon. But if I look at the crack with just the right light and angle, I may can see some indication of an impact at the end of the crack. Maybe. But maybe not. I don't remember anything hitting my windshield. So I rolled her back into the hangar while I figure out what to do. I assume I can stop drill it, but I wanted to ask for advice. So I am all ears.

What should I do?


Fresh Air Vent support wrong bend

Doing some dry fit testing on the F14186-L and vent SV-10-L. Also R side has same issue.

According to page 29-22 RV14 rev1 figure 1 they should be flush to the skin and each other but on my parts it appears that the bend in the F-14186 is not in the correct space. Resulting in a 9/32 gap between the front of the vent SV-5 and the F-14186 bracket if the bracket is mounted flush to the skin as depicted on fig 1. I can slide the bracket backwards to make a flush fit on both parts but then the opening and pre drilled holes in the F-14186 bracket do not center correctly on the vent and NACA scoop.

Possible fix is to create a spacer between the parts or if the part was bent out of spec, send me 2 new ones.

Enclosing 3 pictures one head on showing the vent with bracket lined up correctly and the second showing the resulting gap if the assembly is flush to the skin. 3rd is pic from plans.

Tech support answer is below.

This is a common situation and there is a bit of work required to get the best fit here, maybe by making a spacer as you suggest. There have been no out of spec F-14186 parts found historically.

If there are other out of spec brackets out there it might be easier to get a replacement sent if we all mention the issue as apparently this currently does not warrant a replacement. So my suggestion is check your fit you might need to adjust a bit.


RV-10 Builders Motivation

Last Thursday was able to fly to KAQO for some famous Coopers BBQ in Llano TX. Have made this trip many times before. But, this time was special.... got to do it with 2 other RV-10 owners. Thank you Mike and Larry for a GREAT afternoon of flying and BBQ! Thought I'd post pics of the 3 planes on the ramp to give those still building their 10 motivation for the finish line. In case you're wondering, yes, all that work IS WORTH IT!!!!


My RV Weekend ...more RVators chiming in


First Engine Start Video

Posted the first engine start.



3/14/2022.  Issue #5,527.
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

My RV Weekend

(dr) KMWL for hood work and Natty Flats BBQ (and a courtesy car of questionable repute). 


Ready, Set, Phase I ...CJ in EP

As previously reported, the first flight was completed on January 12th with the very capable Tom Berge performing the first flight.

Since then I've continued to work with Tom to get my flying skills tuned up, finished the first round of polishing (in an un-heated/un-insulated hangar in Minnesota in January and February), and completed all of my G3X configuration and post-installation settings/tests.

Best of all, for the first time in way too many months, we're finally looking at a ten-day forecast with daily high temps at least in the upper 30's!

It's go time!
Chris Hrabe
Eden Prairie, MN


Doors (not really) fitting ...YankeeBravo RV-10

Good day, working on the doors and having the top part and side part flush with the structure I end up with the door being recessed more than 1/8 inches at the A pillar, it seems to be a lot.
Any thoughts or help welcome for the best way to fix it or avoid it...


Temporary Canopy Shade

I'm planning my 1st trip to Osh this year and looking for options for canopy shade so I'm not sunburned after the 9 hour flight there from Socal. I don't want to install a Kroger style shade because it will only be for this round trip. I like having the unobstructed view in my normal flight ops. Looking for recommendations for a removable tint film or similar that wont damage the plex when removed.


Bleeding Brake - STUPID AIR Bubbles

I had to replace my pilot side brake line and decided it was a good time to replace all the brake fluid.

I followed the instructions in the MM and from Matco. Still have 1 or 2 stubborn bubbles coming out of the brake cylinders by the pedals. I pumped another 6-8oz through and that removed most, but still have 2-3 small bubbles in the lines.

Is this normal? Just need to pump more 5606 Hydraulic fluid through it? I've been extremely careful not to pump in any air while doing the bleeding process.
Roger Kiefer II


Whatsit?  ...Vlad seen from the air


Today I melted the spark plug copper gasket

Working on the condition inspection, engine, spark plug cleaning, gaping, etc. The last task before reinstalling the plugs was to anneal the copper gaskets. Well, I didn't have the propane touch I normally use but I did have a MAP torch.

Fired it up, inserted the first copper gasket into the flame and promptly melted the copper ring. Wow! It didn't take long for that to happen. Lesson learned.


-9A Progress ...PilotjohnS

So lots of progress this weekend.
I was able to match drill the inner and outer skirts with the help of a friend. I learnt that the outer skirt match drilling to the canopy frame is best done with the canopy on the fuselage, so the curve of the skirt exactly matches the curve of the fuselage.

Also, I am thinking about using my version 2 method to attach the outer skirt to the canopy frame. The main difference is using Pro-seal and not sikaflex between the outer skirt and the frame. The reason is that sikaflex requires too much masking, runs when wet, and will be very hard to control due to the inner skirt being in the way of pulling off the masking. Besides, with the rivets per the plans, I do not need to glue the skirts to the canopy frame, just provide a seal. I will save the sikaflex for when I actually need a strong bond.

Below is the version 2 method.



3/11/2022.  Issue #5,526.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

from the archives:  Danny King @ Johnson Creek

Twisted slider frame

Just starting on the sliding canopy frame (on a 6A, I think that it is the same as the other slider models). The frame is twisted off centre by about 3/8" so that when the front bow is parallel to the roll bar the rear guide block does not line up with the aft T track. See attached pics. I'm going to try straightening it using the method depicted in the Vans support bulletin.


O2 Adaptor

For the technical scuba divers with RVs, I happened to find this great adapter which allows a pin-type medical O2 reg to be mounted on your favorite Deco or Bailout bottle with DIN valve. I initially was looking for leveraging a larger O2 bottle or our 3L CCR bottles for emergency O2 support when remote. But a 40cf makes an awesome O2 bottle for flying.


Ground Adjustable Rudder Pedals

I have to say I'm a bit disappointed in the ground adjustable rudder pedal kit so far. First, the F-8108 attach angles are supposed to have a joggle in them at each end but it's really just a slight bend in the flange of the angle that doesn't do anything.

Second, the weld on the rudder axel tab interferes with it lying flat against the F-8108 attached angle leaving a 1/16" gap also making it impossible to get the 15 1/4" dimension from side to side they call for.

I reached out to Vans about the weld interference and they said it's allowable to relieve the cutout in the angle to accommodate the weld but that means repeating that process 8x for the 8 cutouts. I thought about adding a washer to give me clearance for the weld but that will make it impossible to achieve the 15 1/4" spacing called out. I'm not sure how critical the spacing is. My fuselage is upside down right now so I'm working on other small projects.

Has anyone else run into these problems? And if so, how did you solve them. I'm at the point of almost ordering the inflight adjustable rudder pedals but don't want to turn this thread into a debate between the two. I already read all of those. <g>


Big Box ...DanH

One goal for this year is to get all my heavy shop equipment on wheels, because we hope to move to an airport community eventually. I have two lathes. The big one is already mobile, but the faithful Smithy has been on an old wooden bench for the last 25 years.

Before his own retirement, my friend Bill ran a metals scrapyard. We have Maxwell-Gunter here. The government throws away all kinds of neat stuff, some of which would show up at the yard....in this case, two huge (24 x 30 x12) aluminum drawers on nice ball bearing slides. So, a long delayed project...a roll around bench for the lathe, with drawers to store away all the tooling.

Call it old school homebuilder disease, but a bargain tickles my snarfels, if you know what I mean. I was walking through Home Depot, and noticed a 46" roll around box which had gotten dropped off a truck or something. Although bent up, all the drawers worked just fine. Mr. Manager sir, would you like to hear an offer? Took it home, stripped it down to just case and drawers, and hammered out some damaged sheet metal.

Drew up a steel tube frame, mostly 2" 16ga square, a fast, easy format to fabricate. Goal was stiffness, but it wasn't possible to use diagonals, so a doubled tube run across the bottom, and cross members in the top to support the lathe. As my buddy David says, if it's stiff enough, it will probably be strong enough. Needs to be, because when loaded with lathe, lathe accessories, and tooling, it's gonna weigh a lot.

About a week, part time. Wrapped it up yesterday. Today I'm off to the airport to retrieve my engine crane, so I can transfer the lathe. Let's hope I don't need to build another tug to move it around the shop



3/10/2022.  Issue #5,525.
Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Status Update: RV-7 74017

Since I hit a big milestone, time for another update... I've done some stuff in the last 15 months:
Cut canopy, Sika'ed the aft together
Done a bunch of wiring
Powered up the avionics on ground power, which went exceedingly well. GPS signal isn't great in the shop and I had one pin out of place on the com radio. Otherwise, smooth as silk.
Next is finishing the last of the wiring aft of the firewall, a few other miscellaneous tasks, forward skin installation, windscreen, and then FWF. But a progress pic:

I know my avionics purchase/install was a little early compared to most, but there were a couple additional factors:
- I'm using an SDS injection package, so there was more stuff to locate (both for the system itself, and the additional electrical redundancy). It's all off-plans so I wanted to make sure I did the placement/install provisions while I had access.
- I had a quote from a dealer that I was very happy with (he also makes a nice interconnect board), and when the big Van's and Lycoming price increases were announced last summer on top of the supply issues I said "well ****, I'd better go ahead and order before prices go up and I can't get parts". Yes, I'm gambling a bit on the warranty side but I figured the odds/costs of problems were outweighed by the probable price increases and shortages later on. A lot of the bad-from-stock risk has been retired at this point.
- I'd anticipated my build process going a little faster

I'd already done some of the wiring using 3D-printed dummy units and cardboard mockups, so I was half a step ahead. I'm also an aircraft systems engineer by day, so the fuel system and electrical/avionics work is just plain fun to me--I'd much rather do that than futz with the blasted canopy or try to make things pretty. There's also something a little Zen about making up wire harnesses. I have a few more wires and accessory components (interior lights, USB power outlet) to put in, but after that the forward skin can go on. I have access panels and have verified I can get to everything so I haven't boxed myself into inaccessible wiring--I won't have to remove skins to get to things.

Wiring with the fuselage level on the stand also means I don't have a slope to worry about and it should be easier to fine-tune the ADAHRS. And I can do the canopy with the airplane level and accessible, too. That'll probably be the next step once the skin is on. I might rig the gear fairings too, while things are supported level.

It's not shown in the pictures but a lot of the firewall-mounted components are in place. I think all that's left there is the adapter and "throttle" for my oil cooler, plumbing in the pressure sensor manifold, and running the brake lines to the brakes once the gear is installed. Batteries, contactors, firewall penetrations, etc. are all in place already. Then it's engine, cowl, baffles, and fiberglass.

Oh, and I have to remake the forward spar covers over the fuel lines.


Torque wrench seemingly doesn't work

I've secured a bolt to a clamp so it doesn't turn and when I practice using my torque wrench I never seem to feel the click.

Not sure if I'm doing it wrong or my wrench is bad.


Radial RV flies again!

Temps were a bit high, but otherwise the Verner 9S performed very well!


RV-10 Update: arr RV-10

As of Monday 3-7-22 I have my slow build wing kit!

Thanks to Kelsey and all the folks at headquarters for working so hard to keep the builds going!

Still lots of work on the fuselage and the slow building of the wings. Looking forward to more kits showing up in the coming months.

The work is progressing in the garage for now. It's just so easy to walk out there daily and do a little. When things get too big I'll be moving to the hangar at Sierra Skypark.

Just finished installing the AC scoop and condenser fittings on the belly. Also, the doublers for a couple of com antennas. The titanium is prepared for installing a fire barrier on the forward belly.

Also, trying to figure out just how to run conduits and AC hoses.
The AC hoses are going in the right wall and I am staying out of the center tunnel altogether.


9A Status: FAB done ...cgeyman

Hurray. Another small step.


RE: Antenna Doubler - Bond It In

You can always "bond" in a doubler using a quality epoxy adhesive - 3M ScotchWeld 2216, Hysol EA9430, JB Weld, or equivalent.

I've done more than a 150 destructive joint tests using (mostly 2216) epoxy over the years, and found it provides a greater ultimate shear strength (per unit area) than a -3 riveted joint using 1 1/4" nominal spacing. Its only drawback is low peel strength - but in the case of doublers, there shouldn't be enough flex at the interface of the body skin and doubler to generate a peel type "failure".

Just Sayin' ...


Heated pitot repairable?

My AN5812 heated pitot tube blew the fuse and is showing a dead short on the heater element. Repairable? A cursory look doesn't seem promising for a way to get the element out and replace. But new ones are darned expensive so I thought I'd check with the brain trust before plunking down for a replacement.

Also in case I pick up a used one, what should be the resistance be on the heating element for a working part? Perhaps someone with a new one can measure it with an ohmmeter.


Mar/Apr FAA Safety Briefing

...an excerpt.



3/9/2022.  Issue #5,524.   Need a Contract SIC?

Mini ANL fuse & holder ...Scott Hersha

It was getting a little crowded where I had my "electrical power center" mounted on the firewall of my RV6 build, so I decided to use a mini ANL fuse to make mounting and servicing easier. It protects the 6 awg B-lead wire going forward to my alternator.


Alternator Over Voltage ...Dayton Murdoc k

Over the past few months my alternator light it has been flickering and the voltage has been going up from 14.6. Over this weekend it was 15.5 and I decided enough is enough so I took the cowl off, remove the alternator. I took it to a professional alternator shop and had them evaluate it. The alternator was without flaws but the technician told me that the condition I was experiencing is possibly a high resistance level in the wire circuit. I found the lug bolt on my battery was loose after tightening it the flickering light and high-voltage went away


Superior Dipstick - Oil Fill ...John Tierney

Does anyone know what the thread size/pitch is for the Superior engine dipstick tube? It is a very nicely machined system, and I would like to cobble together some fittings (PVC or otherwise) to enhance oil filling after an oil/filter change. The Phillips supplied free filler tube just doesn't stay put.

I have tried the common True Value plumbing fitting, but they just don't fit. I suspect that it could be metric.


E Mag P Model Wiring ...rockitdoc

Since my skills do not include computer programs for laying out wiring diagrams, my method is decidedly old school: pencil and paper

If you see anything worth changing, pipe up, please.


Bird Strike leading edge

This is a photo of the damage. It was between to ribs outboard of the fuel tank. Thanks for the advise on the auto body guy. This might be a good location for a landing light.


RV-7 Status: Desert Rat

instrument panel and firewall work



3/8/2022.  Issue #5,523.   Need a Contract SIC?

First Flights Added to the Mothership ...from around the globe.


My RV Weekend ...Dan Lade

Got to this point this weekend.  For prospective builders, when you read one line of instructions, this is what you may expect.  Instructions say:  "When drilling is complete, remove the skins. Debur the structure and skins, dimple as required, and cleco the rear fuselage back together."

This line is what I somewhat finished this weekend. I timed my progress while doing the above. 905 minutes give or take 10%. Not slow, not fast, halffast.


Antenna placement ...Duhg PIREP

mine turned out really close to Philips. I tried to trace the footwell on the lower side skin and split the difference between the pushrods and footwell


Help read the borescope pictures

Hello all, I recently did the condition inspection and asked the A/P to take some borescope pictures for me. The pictures are attached below. The engine is an O-360-A1A with about 500 hours.

Based all the online reading I did, it seems the exhaust valves are all pretty healthy. But there was no mentioning at all about how the intake valves should look like, and I found some asymmetric patterns on the intakes.

So my questions are: do the intake valves matter at all? Or more specifically, is there anything I should be concerned about the intake valve pictures? Thanks a lot!


Practice Kit Trailing Edge Alignment

Hello VAF! Working on my practice kit from Vans and am finding the trailing edge skins and wedges are not aligning. Looks to be about 0.0815" out of alignment.

I feel like if I force the alignment before drilling it will cause one of the skins to bow. Any thing I can do to fix this or is this not something to worry about?


Vinyl Wrap 6A

Since I took the flaps off to clean up, decided to try wrapping. Had sort of kept up with polishing the top but the bottom of the flaps were terrible, and the UHMW tape on the top was in really rough shape on one side.

I used some materials I bought several years ago and planned this only as a test. I thought the bottom leading edge would be tough and I was right. I tried to cut about 3 mm long and tuck under the hinge - sort of worked.

Overall was pleased enough to do a test install. I used velcro loop under the wing in lieu of chafe tape on the flap and that seems like a great idea.

Lesson learned: imperfections that look terrible for polishing are easily hid by the wrap (this was 3M 1080). So I have *lots* of time I spent polishing the flaps that I probably wasted. I could have just cleaned and wrapped them.



3/7/2022.  Issue #5,522. 
Really full edition today....enjoy!  Hope you had a nice weekend!
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First flight of my RV-12iS

D-ERVM was first airborn on March, 2. What a great flying little plane. I was worried for months about the transition from my ICP Savannah-S (STOL Plane) But in fact flying the RV-12 is easier!!!


PVC pipe winch for lowering cowl

In case this is helpful.


EMP 07-09 step 2

Looking at the gotcha, WIKI, and plans, step 2 of 07-09, it would seem to start adhesive on the "right" skin R-00901-R-1 and trailing edgewedge R-00916-1, as figure 1 shows. The plans call for left skin R-00901-L-1, but then have you bend the "left" skin back in step 3. Is this a typo that's not covered?


What did you do with your RV this weekend?


O360 A4M spark plug damage.

Looking for some input...

Piper Archer III, ( please don't flame me , .. with an O360 A4M with 800 hours since new. I am the original owner. Plane has been very reliable. One vacuume pump and an alternator are all that's been replaced. Mags overhauled at 500 hours, plugs at 400 and recently at 750.

Fired her up yesterday..all temps/pressures in the green. Run up and mag drop were fine. Rolled out on the runway.. everything was good till I was about a foot in the air when the engine sagged real bad. Put her back down and taxied back to the ramp. Acted like a fouled / bad plug... but she would not clear up. She was really shaking.... whew !

Pulled plugs... all were in excellent shape except #4 cylinder. " Ugly " pictures attached. Melted electrodes on top #4... bottom #4 same with the addition of busted ceramic insulator.
Had to get back home.. so other than looking to make sure the piston was still going up and down, this was the extent of my inspection...but heading back in a couple days.

Plan is to..
> Borescope cylinder
> Pull rocker cover and have a look
> Inspect intake tube for air leaks
> Check timing

This all happened in less than 15 minutes from start up to shutdown... strange to me... but maybe some of you guys can add some sanity to this.

Will have my A/P get involved but he is tied up for a couple weeks so I'm just wanting to get a bit of a head start.

Any input appreciated - Thanks !


Spark Plug Adapter

I should know this but my memory is bad. I am changing my auto plugs for a new set for the first time. First plug I removed the adapter came along with it. When you reinstall the new plug are you supposed to put the adapter and plug back in as one unit or put them in separately. The first set have been in there since June 24 2017 which is 249 hrs ago. I seem to remember following some specific instructions when I did it but don not remember. Like to here from someone who knows how I could screw up something so seemingly simple.


Tailwheel Nut

Servicing the tailwheel assembly before first flight. All is happy with fresh grease and no burrs on the pin. Wondering how much to tighten the top nut. Just enough to remove any up and down play, or torque it tight? My yoke has a bearing in the bottom. Thanks!!!


What am I doing wrong.

I inherited my Dad's rv. He had it nicely polished at one point but it's been about 10 years since it's been touched. After spending a couple years addressing mechanical issues and learning the plane I finally decided to start cleaning it up.

I've never polished before so I picked up an orbital polisher, some Nuvite C, and a Rupes wool pad and read Nuvites manual. It seems to be working except that no matter how much I run the polisher the black smudge doesn't go away. On the videos it polishes away after about a minute, but mine is still there after 10. Eventually I give up and wipe it away with a rag.

Am I missing something?


Problems Making Up a Dsub Connector


I'm embarking on adding an Infinity Grip to my RV-8 pilot stick.
There's a large bundle of wires coming out of the grip (maybe 20+ wires of 20 and 22 gauge) wrapped by some good thick insulator.

I'm having several problems and I'm looking for tips on how to make a clean, neat connector.


How long do your brake pads last?

Just finishing up my condition inspection this week and I have to replace pads due to some cracks. 185 on the hobbs. If they weren't cracked they likely would have made it to 250 hours. It got me curious, how long are you guys getting out of your pads?


Thanks to Randy at Richmond Aircraft and our VAF Community

One more VAF community save

Flew the -10 from OH to San Antonio, TX for a week of Air Force surgical team training. On the way back home, my brother suggested I meet him at 52F for a quick ramp-side lunch. Ate, fueled up and, in short (intend to provide the add'l details later), needed quick assistance to figure out and resolve a rough running engine issue. Especially with a projected deployment right around the corner, I wanted to get home to my wife and daughter... aka, get-there-itis.

Enter Randy of Richmond Aviation. He heard the rough engine and simply appeared. Knowing this was the heart of RV country, I was relieved to hear and see his RV-specific experience with ~4 RVs in his hangar. If I had better memory, I would have simply known his name from VAF!

In minimal time he diagnosed my fouled spark plugs as the issue, and remained open-minded to any other causes/contributors. He fully cleaned up and checked all 12 plugs and had them re-installed quicker than I imagined. And chit-chat with usual suspects who appeared at his hangar was added entertainment. Cowled it back up and did a full run-up without issue.

Overall, Randy is a true maintenance professional, and Johnny on the spot! Shoot, I'd even fly my -10 all the way to his north Texas hangar from Ohio for my next condition inspection. That good. Seriously.

A big thanks to the overall VAF community, DR for creating this place, Randy and the others who supported yesterday, including my SWA brother. Had 50+kt tailwinds for that final leg home, seeing up to 235kt GS. Got home safely just in to kiss my daughter goodnight. Love the RV and our community.
Ryan M


First cowling full hinge hanging

Hurray- after my fiberglass trimming fiasco, things are settling down and I am not going to buy anew lower cowl. Patience and learning the basics of fiberglass helps. It is far from perfect, but plenty flyable.


RV-4 Getting Better

After reinstalling the radio it now transmits at full volume. Sounds great without the engine running but transmit becomes somewhat garbledwhen in flight and noisy. Much better over all. Gonna play with settings more.

I changed my baffles to have proper taper for my ECI cylinders, added the duct/channel on the back of #3 , an air dam on #1, and plugged all of the little holes. Today on take off I still had 415F on two cylinders at 120 kt climb and 75F ambient. Had to substantially reduce power to control. Before hot to cold was 3,4,2,1. Today was 1,4,2,3. Obviously the #3 duct worked great and #1 air dam was too much. Conditions were warmer and lower altitude so hard to compare Temps to previous flights but guessing I'm about 10 F cooler at cruise on average. Assuming I reduce the air dam size I think that leaves me with #4 a problem during climb only. #4 is middle of the group in cruise.

I've traced my heavy wing to an improperly fabricated outer wing aileron bracket on the left side. I've got to make a new one, there isn't enough room to simply adjust the aileron bracket. A bummer but shouldn't be too difficult.


Nose Rib Blues

Yeah, the weren't fun. I ended up with bruises on my arms from that session.


Upper cowl inlet ducts

Fun installing the well-designed cowl inlet ramps.  Also starting air box install- pretty awesome.



3/4/2022.  Issue #5,521.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
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Panel Update: Don B. -9 Rebuild

Dual G3x, G5, GTN 650, GMA245, GTX45R, GTR200. Harness built by SteinAir.


Can anyone ID this solenoid?

I got this in a box of stuff I bought here on VAF a while back. It was sold to me as a start solenoid, presumably since it has 4 posts.

When I started looking at it last night, I realized it's got a jumper from one of the B terminals to what would be the I terminal on a start solenoid.

It's clearly not case grounded.

It doesn't have any markings at all on it other than a couple of inspection stamps on the dome end.

Does anybody have an idea of what I've got here?


RV 8 tops skin absent (fastback) - wait or press

I'm drilling out the fuselage parts and have come to the point where the instructions tell me to attach the top skin in order to correctly align the fuselage for drilling the remaining parts such as the aft deck, control stops, angle and spacer. I have not yet received my fastback parts and have elected to eliminate the stock top skin from my fuse kit.

Should I wait for the fastback top skin to proceed past this point or is the pre-punched fuse square enough to proceed?


Look Ma, No Airspeed! ...Vac

26-minute familiarization video of a flight conducted without any airspeed references, only performance angle of attack cues:


-3B Update: David Paule

I made a mount for one of the under-cowling temperature sensors and it weighed about 20 grams. The second one weight under 4 grams, so it was worth doing. Sorry, no photo of that, but it was made from a piece of 1/8" 6061-T6 sheet. This one will go on the warm side of the baffles. The other one will go on the cold side and I'll hold off on their attachments until further into the engine installation.

After mocking up the governor control, it was annoyingly evident that there was no way I could run the control through the side of the firewall recess. I made a control lever extension to bring the line of action forward and while the extension itself was fine, it made the total travel become greater than the control cable's capability, so that didn't work. This left some sort of way to carry the cable into the recess while not having its support in the recess. Here's a picture of the mock-up of something that works.


Butch's Whirlwind Carbon Cleaning Routine

Soap and water... Pledge, Maguire's cleaner wax etc. Treat it like any other painted surface. I have a Whirlwind Carbon prop, painted front surface.


Test Fitting Fairings ...agent4573

"...First flight should hopefully be this weekend, and then I have to break in the engine. I'll be re-installing all these fairings in about a week or so once the engine break-in is complete and will take "final" install pics then. This stuff all looks much better after final sanding and a coat of primer."



3/3/2022.  Issue #5,520.
Wednesday I sat safety pilot in our -6 while a local -8 bud logged some sim'd hood time towards his IFR rating.  He flew from the right seat because, you know, -8 guy ;^).  RNAV (GPS) RWY 17 LPV over at KLUD a couple of times and some time fiddling with the automation.  IAS climbs, arming up approaches and monitoring things on the way down while planning for the missed (one to a hold and the other RTB).  Amazing what these RVs can do!  Check out those winds <g>.  We don't get many of those - it was nice.  Coupla GP grabs below.
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I used indoor outdoor carpet from lowes. Thin, durable, no edge binding needed to prevent any unraveling. It seems to stay put under the seats well, or some velcro. Easy to cut with an xacto knife . $20 for materials. U will find it easy to cut a piece for baggage area. Under seats pretty simple too, two pieces, from front edge of spar back to flat area of floor, holes cut out for stick. From the flat back not too tough to do. I would have to remove to trace for templates, hope this photo helps you visualize mine. For front, my pedals are floor mounted. Basically a square piece, one each side. Sorry no pic of fwd floor , outside of plane . 30 year old 6A, just installed Lemeke interior. Carpet on eing pic, big square cut out left is due to Whelen power supply box sit there, the narrow slots on same piece is lap belt attach point, center cut out, flap tower, lond narrow left to right is for seat back floor hinge attach point


OSH 2022 RV-10 Dinner Poll

Dear RV-10 builders and owners,

as last year, the traditional RV-10 dinner at Camp Scholler won't be conducted by the previous organizer Bob. I jumped in last minute last year and we had a small, but very nice off-site RV-10 dinner at the Fox River Brewery (which required a car ride). Goal is to have it within walking distance this year.

I would like to hear comments on having the event at the SOS brother's tent. If we stay below 130 participants, dinner is possible, above that it will be a meet and greet with drinks only.

Possible date is Sunday 7/24. Looks like Monday and Tuesday is traditionally taken by the Vans party and Vans dinner.

San Diego


Another figure 8 dimple hole

Hi all. I screwed up and put a "figure 8" dimple hole in one of my horizontal stab skins. Fortunately it's on a bottom trailing edge. So my fix is to put two rivets equal distance on either side. I drilled out any raggedness from the male die. I plan on putting some JB Weld in the damaged hole, and rivet all 3. Good plan?

I thought about just using JB Weld and a rivet in the damaged hole, or go up to a 4, but this seems like the approach most recommended?

Let me know if it's going to fall out of the sky.


High fuel pressure, carburetor, landing configuration

RV-6A, O-360, fixed pitch, MA-4-5 carb

I was playing around at altitude in landing configuration: full flaps, idle, fuel boost pump on, 65 knots when the high fuel pressure (8 psi) went off. Fuel tanks were full.

The pressure went back to normal with the boost pump off. I-m thinking it might just be the combination of a nose down attitude, full fuel tanks, and the boost pump. It rises slowly, so I-m pretty sure I didn-t notice it in normal landings as the boost pump was on with the nose pointed down less than 30 seconds.

The electric fuel pump is rated for 4.5-6 psi of boost.

The top of the fuel tanks may have been higher than the tap at the carb for the pressure to add 1 psi.

But perhaps I should subtract 1 psi for the height of the pressure transducer mounted on the fire wall. In a descent, the transducer might be level with the top of the tank.

It-s not hard to believe the engine driven pump wouldn-t add 2-3 psi.

I couldn-t find a spec for the carb for maximum fuel pressure. But the overhaul manual for the carb has you do a needle valve leak test at 6 psi with the bowl full. The bowl level is not suppose to increase for 5 minutes.

The engine (Superior) spec-s 8 psi for the fuel inlet. But we are measuring the output.

Anyone have any thoughts if this might be a problem?



3/2/2022.  Issue #5,519.  Need a Contract SIC?

Show Us Your RV-4 ...Phil Kallenberger's first post

I got my kit in late 1983 ... kit 519... finished 14 Feb, 1985 .. first flew Mar 31,1985 ... it was the 4th RV-4 to fly ... I built it to sell for profit ... the kit back then was $4600.00 ... 36 yrs later I still have it ... just could't bring myself to sell it ! ... So much fun !


Unique Mods ...Larry Larson entry

Biggest "Mod" has been the cowl. I modified it to connect to the plenum. Basically the inlet portion of the top cowl was bonded to the bottom cowl so the inlets are sealed units. Ohoto.
The smaller mod was installing gates in the louvers to adjust exit air.


Engine "Bogs Down" On Takeoff

Lately when advancing the throttle for takeoff, passing the 2000-2100 rpm range the engine seems to stumble/"bog down" for a couple of seconds as the throttle is still being pushed forward. Then, the engine bursts on up to full power. Runs smooth from then on. In flight, no hesitation at all if going from idle to full power, even if simulating a go-around starting from approach speed/full flaps.

Also I've noticed the pre-takeoff mag checks seem a little rough, almost like the engine is "missing" a bit. Leaning during the mag checks seems to smooth things out to a normal single-mag sound/feel.

Not sure what the cause is. It's almost like the engine is too rich when at full-rich mixture. I do lean aggressively on the ground after start-up. The engine is a Lycoming IO-360-B1B, Whirlwind constant speed prop. Slick mags, harness, plugs all new as of Aug 2021.


Rico's Panel


Red Cube Mount

I didn't like the plans method of mounting the fuel flow transducer to the intake runners, so came up with this mod after three prototypes:

Angle mounted with foam between sump and angle on two 1/4-20 tapped holes on the port side sump. Then, red cube mounted to bracket with foam between bracket and cube.


RV-10 fairing cracks

I have some cracking going on in the mold-in-place fairing at the base of the windscreen. A friend nearby (not a member here) has reported the same on his -10. This is cracking of the plies over the outside lower corners of the windscreen and has taken a year or better to appear. Thankfully, my bird is not yet painted; my friend's is.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to do the repair when the hangar warms up a bit this month. Hoping to shoot Stewart Eko this spring and this needs to be fixed first. Thanks, Dan and everybody.


Cold air entering the cargo area ...12

I thought I had read here (can't find it now), about plugging the areas that let cold air enter behind the seats. During summer it is welcome to have the added ventilation but in winter the puppy in the baggage compartment complains. We use blankets but I was wondering if anyone has found a simple "put foam rubber block here" solution, and where is "here"?


Milestone: swift12

This says it all...lots to go.


Exhaust valve analysis- Please

Would like some help analyzing the photos of my #4 exhaust valve. Rather than seeing a color change around the periphery, I see color changes in the stem area as if the stem is not conducting the heat away from the face of the valve.

The first two pictures are of the #4 exhaust valve. The final picture is of the #2 valve, which matches 1 and 3.

Sorry about the light reflections in the pictures. My scope's mirror throws some light back into the lens.



3/1/2022.  Issue #5,518.
Gentle reminder about keeping non-RV things out of the forums (posting rules).  Thanks to those who help keep the place the online oasis it is, and have a wonderful Tuesday.
Need a Contract SIC?

March Calendar Wallpaper

...courtesy Scotty G!


Electrical diagram/relays

I have a question or two about the simple wiring diagram I'm working on for my RV6 build. This is going to be a simple VFR panel with a GRT Horizon 10.1, a GTR200B radio, Sandia remote transponder, 2-axis GRT autopilot. B&C 40a alternator, PC680 main battery, 5 ah SLA backup battery.

My question has to do with the use of relays, and whether or not I need a couple of them. Diagram below. There is a switched bus tie relay(BTR) that feeds secondary power to the Aux bus that will also charge the Aux battery. There is another switched relay for the Aux battery feed to the Aux bus. These wires will probably carry no more than 5 amps when charging the Aux battery, and less than 3 amps when not charging. Can I just use a toggle switch for these two runs and eliminate those two relays? There is about an 85 ohm resistance through these relays and Aux battery charging will be affected. The switches are Carling switches from Stein, and are rated for 10a @ 250 VAC, 15a @ 125 VAC. How does this translated to 14 v-dc?

I plan on keeping the avionics bus relay. The drawing is crude, and I'll probably be adding a couple things I haven't thought of. The main battery is forward of the firewall, Aux battery aft of FW. Main bus feed through firewall is protected by a 50a maxi fuse, and the alternator B lead wire is protected by an ANL current limiter. In the event of an alternator failure, I'll simply open the Aux bus switch, and the SureFly will be the only thing running on the Aux battery.



Would you lap the valve or monitor?

Hello everyone, just doing my condition inspection and noticed #4 is a bit on the asymmetrical side after about 160 tach hours. Wondering if I should lap this or wait and see what it does? Thanks for your opinion/expertise!


Should I redo it?

Somehow I messed up my numbers for stiffener lengths and cut them a little short (also somehow missed the bottom ones completely). The widest gap from trailing edge is about a half inch. Is this an acceptable tolerance? Or should order more angle and re-fabricate new ones that are much closer to the 3/16" gap called for in the plans?


My RV Weekend ...more submits



2/28/2022.  Issue #5,517.
Feeling mostly human again one week since the G550 ATP/checkride.  Eye opening how much that adventure running in parallel with the full time VAF gig drained the brain and body.  Beautiful Wx here in TX Sunday, but after Mass I worked on the wife's car instead of flying.  The list of things to catch up on is impressive. ;^)  Hoping to get a RV hop in this week to get the mental gyro all sync'd up.  Hope you had a nice weekend.
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A little winter fun ...Simon's vid

A beautiful day in Toronto. -17C mind you but no problem with the large canopy.


Mothership News ....1,000th RV-10

related: RV-10 subforum


Primer Problem

Can someone help me understand my problem? (See pic)
I assume this is caused by either contamination on the surface or moisture in the air line.

I cleaned with Prekote and maroon scotchbrite, rinsed well, dried with compressed air, let sit for 12 hrs to fully dry, then primed, so I don't think it was contaminated. And I wore latex gloves the entire time.

I have a small water separator in the airline after 50' of hose. It's a 25gal compressor. I added another disposable water filter from harbor freight at the gun and the finish only improved marginally.

Could temperature do this? It was right at 60 degrees when I painted but it had been warming over several hours from a low of about 48. Otherwise, a beautiful day and I sprayed just outside my garage door.

This is AKZO primer mixed 50/50 and it sat for 30min after mixing before spraying. I'm using a 3M Accuspray gun with a 1.8 tip.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


Oops cowling

I was trying to be careful but I still managed to over trim one side of the cowling. Now trying to undo the damage. Ugh. Like fitting an old fashioned victorian dress I imagine.😩

All so my inlet duct areas didn't fully close the gap.


How do you remove manual trim cable from elevator - RV-4

-4 built in 91. Pulling the tail off to add some reinforcements and I don't see how I can pull the trim cable out of the mount in the left elevator. Seems my only option is drilling out the 4 rivets but figured I'd check with the community first and potentially save myself some time/effort if there is another "right way".


Fairings-Etc.com is Back ...with Steve Barnes at the helm.

Their ad lives in the Previous Day's News section, and their URL is www.fairings-etc.com


Wish I was DanH ...cgeyman

Man, my adventures in fiberglass are from the underworld- wish I had trimmed to a better tape line, than having to add back edge to my lower cowl. Still lots of sanding to do. My fault of course. A teaching moment- try to avoid all fiberglass <g>


Latest Blogspot post is up;

see link in signature below. The post title says it all. Here's the obligatory teaser photo:


50th anniversary reunion for Van's RV aircraft highlights homebuilt aircraft activities at EAA AirVenture Oshkosh 2022 ...EAA

Owners of all RV types invited to join activities at Oshkosh

EAA AVIATION CENTER, OSHKOSH, Wisconsin - (February 25, 2022) - The 50th anniversary of Van's Aircraft RV series, which has become the world's most popular kit airplane, will be a major element of homebuilt aircraft activities at EAA AirVenture Oshkosh 2022.

EAA AirVenture Oshkosh, the 69th edition of the Experimental Aircraft Association's fly-in convention, is July 25-31 at Wittman Regional Airport in Oshkosh.

"While aircraft kits have existed for more than a century, it was 50 years ago that Richard VanGrunsven introduced a model that would move the homebuilt movement into an age where kit aircraft would become dominant," said Charlie Becker, EAA's director of chapters and homebuilt community manager. "Today, more than 11,000 completed RV models are the direct descendants of that first RV-3 in 1972. We invite all of them to be present at Oshkosh as we celebrate a half-century of success."

A number of special events are planned as part of the 50-year celebration. Those include:

- Special Van's RV parking areas in the AirVenture homebuilt aircraft area

- Multiple forums and workshops focused on RV aircraft throughout the week

- RV aircraft flying during the AirVenture air shows

- A July 25 evening program at Theater in the Woods with VanGrunsven, highlighting the history of the company that began as a backyard shop in Oregon

VanGrunsven began Van's Aircraft with a clean design, then selling plans and a few parts he manufactured himself for those aircraft. Soon the company began manufacturing complete airplane kits and introducing new models that after 50 years now include the latest design, the RV-14. More than 400 kits each year are shipped to builders around the world from the Van's factory in Aurora, Oregon.


My RV Weekend



2/25/2022.  Issue #5,516.   Need a Contract SIC?

from the archives...

RS232 Signal Ground

I'm planning wiring for a G3X system and looking at backup rs-232 data paths - confused by how the RS232 works (if it needs a dedicated ground).

In some diagrams of the G3X manual, such as on 27-7 for the path between the GSA28 and the GMC307 or the GMC307 to the GDU, it shows the rs-232 as a 2 core shielded wire (shield grounded to the connector at both ends) and does not use any "SIGNAL GROUND" pins, or 3rd wire for ground.

In other areas, like the GDU to the GEA24 such as on 27-11, it shows the use of a 3 core shielded wire (utilising a "signal ground" pin at each end), with the shield ground to the connector at both ends as well.

Now on the GEA24, J241 connector there is no signal ground pin!

Do i use a 2 core wire for this? or do i use a 3 core wire and connect the "signal ground" pin on the GDU to either "ground" pin on the GEA 24? (power ground?)

I guess a basic question - what is a "signal ground" pin? Is this just a pin which is grounded to the unit internally? (aka the same as the power ground etc).


Page 09-12 Step 5 ...-14

Q: Would someone please provide a picture of the finished E-01401 trim tab actuator on Page 09-12 Step 5? I've separated the 3 pieces, removed the hatched areas and debured them, but I'd still like to be certain how they get riveted together. Thanks.

A: Did this just a couple days ago. The squeezer worked just fine to double-flush rivet. I alternated the direction of the rivets in case there was a tendency to twist, but I suspect that wasn't necessary.


Bruce Bohannon Inducted into Texas Aviation Hall of Fame ...R. E. "Ernie" Butcher post

I'm pleased to share:

Not included in Bruce's 'official' list of accomplishments: *He was a significant behind the scenes force in the success of the RV-1 project and in securing it a permanent display space in the EAA museum. *His active participation in Eagle's Nest Projects during its formative years set the stage for the most prolific high school teen-build program to date (28 RV-12s in multiple states). *His continuing flight training support to the RV community. /reb

Congratulations Bruce and Thank You for your friendship and support!


Fiberglass - Multiple Layer Question

I'm extending the edge of my cowling using the method Dan Horton posted.

When laying up multiple layers, do I have to wait for each layer to get tacky before applying the next layer or can I apply multiple layers at once?
Can I stack all 5 layers on a plastic sheet, apply epoxy, cover with another sheet and squeegee, then apply all 5 layers at once.

I have a small area to do and it seems like a big waste of epoxy to mix up 5 or 6 batches of epoxy for the 5 or 6 individual layers.


New E-AB DAR ...Mel post

I have a very good, long time friend In Virginia who just got his DAR.

I've known Darrel for 30+ years and know him to be professional, meticulous, and all around Good Guy. He's new, but learns very fast. He's built an RV-6 and a couple other homebuilts.

If you need a DAR around that part of the country, give him a call.

Darrel Watson. Give me a call for his contact information.


Milestone: Panel Arrives ...AdamB

Aerotronics did my panel. A thing of beauty.


Canopy Unlatched Alarm

Below is a schematic diagram of my canopy alarm. I realize that there are simpler circuits. I chose to use the CD4011 because I only had one wire going to the canopy switch and didn't want to run another one. Also, the CD4011 outputs 5 volts needed by the voice recorder. When activated, the voice recorder plays, "CANOPY OPEN". The pilot knows immediately what is wrong and does not have to figure out what an alarm light or buzzer means.


New Guy Chimes In ...welcome JPresleyConley (-12)

Nose Wheel Axle

I needed to change the inner tube on the nose wheel. When I tried to split the rim, easier said than done, the axle going through the bearing would not move laterally. After much effort, resulting in ordering a new axle and bearings, I was able to split the rim. To prevent this issue in the future, I am thinking of using a high temp lubricant to possibly prevent this. Any other suggestions?


Final CAD ...JET14



2/24/2022.  Issue #5,515.   Need a Contract SIC?

RV-8 Cruise Data ....Scotty G

I've been recording my RV-8's cruise data and power settings to get a feel for what it will actually cruise at.

Engine is a TMX-390 with a Whirlwind 74RV prop.

I'd love to see what other IO-360 and -390 people are getting at the cardinal altitudes for cruise.

I record MP, RPM, FF, TAS, IAS, OAT, % hp, LOP/ROP, and altitude. Measurements are taken after 4-5 minute of steady-state flight. I also record general W/B (fore, mid, aft) and DA.

I've recorded data at 24/24 up to FT/2,400 and 2,500 up to 11,500. It'll scoot at 2,500 RPM!

I'd love if some of you would share your data so I can ensure I'm not setting some dumb power/mixture setting. I like the infield of the ballpark.

Thanks in advance!


Always, always use a check list!

I'm sharing this below as a write up from a friend and fellow RV12 pilot to hopefully save someone's life. After hearing his story verbally I encouraged him to write it up and I would share it anonymously for him with this group.

His write up is very detailed but pales in comparison to when I first heard it over the phone. I can only imagine what it was like with the stall horn blaring in the headset. My request is that you read it and take it to heart. And no need to flame this post as hopefully we all can learn from someone's mistake and not ever commit the same one. At the end of the post I will share a link where another pilot was not so lucky. My friends write up is below:

I am writing this, at the urging of a friend, in the hope that it may prevent serious injury or death to a fellow RV12 pilot. It is anonymous for my own reasons, but mostly because I have beaten myself up enough and don't wish to expose myself to an onslaught of criticism from the ever present know it all social media experts.

After flying for over 40 years I admit that I had become a little complacent regarding checklists. My complacency was probably even worse in the RV12 because its start-up and operation are so deceptively basic and simple. This is my "take-off with an unlatched canopy" experience to the best of my recollection.

Radio call to alert non-towered traffic that I was taking the active. Line up on the active runway. Flaps set to zero on the day in question. Trim set to neutral, advance power to full throttle, release brakes and start the take-off roll, right rudder to compensate for torque and P-Factor and slight elevator back pressure to bring the nose slightly off the runway and accelerate to flying speed (I don't really rotate for take-off, I let the plane fly itself off of the runway and then trim for Vy. As soon as the plane came out of ground effect, the canopy popped open (at least a foot). It took a fraction of a second to realize what had happened. In that fraction of a second I lost rudder and elevator authority and the plane pitched down and to the left (looking down I was over the extreme left edge of the runway). I don't know for sure what happened in the next second or two, I do know that I caught the canopy at about the same time the plane pitched steeply down (about 50' in the air) and I remember trying to keep the plane from impacting nose first by pulling back on the stick. I was successful in getting the nose up before impact, but the downward momentum carried the main gear to the runway where the starboard main gear carried the brunt of the impact (I don't remember even touching the runway, but the EFIS G Meter registered an impact of 3.2 Gs).
Because I was still slow, when I bounced and came back out of ground effect, the plane rolled to the right in a low level stall with the right wing nearly on knife edge. Mind you, with both hands full, one with the stick and the other holding the canopy, the throttle was still wide open. When I realized I was still flying, I had enough runway in front of me that I could have landed if I could just retard the throttle. However, the up force on the canopy was significant and I was still holding it, so I attempted to hold the stick with my knees and reach the throttle with my left hand, but could not stabilize the plane with my knees (I think this took my feet off of the rudder pedals). It was at this point that I began making conscious decisions as opposed to reacting. I knew if I climbed steeply enough, even with full throttle, I could slow the plane down, perhaps enough to at least partially close the canopy. With the stall horn blaring, I was able to partially latch the canopy. I released my grip on the canopy handle long enough to retard the throttle to idle and then immediately went back to gripping the canopy latch handle with my right hand. At this point, 400 to 500 feet in the air and still not past the departure end of the runway, I turned the plane for a close downwind return to the runway I had departed from and successfully landed without further incident.

I later spoke to a witness who saw the whole thing from the ground. He said the initial ground impact was violent and that after the bounce, he thought the starboard wing actually hit the ground (it did not) and that I was going to roll inverted. He then thought I remained out of control during the steep climb that I made trying to slow the plane down under full throttle. He said it wasn't until he saw the plane make a quick turn to downwind that he realized there was not going to be a crash.

I believe I survived by the grace of God and the fact that the RV12 has flaperons. During the low level stall following the bounce, I don't believe I could have kept the plane from completely rolling over if it weren't for the fact that the flaperons gave some level of aileron authority.

I am aware that my experience may not jive with what others have experienced or what they believe to be the aerodynamics of an open RV12 canopy in flight. I believe that I was very lucky and that I survived what could have easily been a fatal incident.
I also now believe that it would not have been necessary to climb into a full power stall in order to regain control over the canopy. It is now my understanding that in a cruise configuration the canopy will not open more than a few inches (even hands off), which would have allowed the use of both my hands to control the aircraft. However in takeoff configuration, I believe the combination of air under the canopy pushing up and over the canopy acting to create lift as an air foil, allows it to rise high enough to interrupt air flow over both the rudder and the elevator.

Please learn from me and use your checklist.

End of his write up...


VAF Builder Map

Hi All! Here's a map that another builder and I created using data available on VAF. You can turn layers on and off using the legend in the upper left.


'Functional' Wiring Diagram ...N804RV

I like the pin-out tables from the manufacturers' documentation for installation. But, once its all put together and you have a gripe, it handy to have a 'functional' wiring diagram for the system. Besides, doing this before diving into the install helps me to resolve differences in terminology between manufacturers, and helps to visualize how its all gonna go together.

It gets pretty complicated if you try to show all the interconnecting wiring between say, a GTN750, a fancy audio panel and an EFIS display. But, a 'functional' diagram just breaks it out by system (i.e. Com 1, Nav 2, GPS 1, Starter, etc...).

Here's one of my wiring diagrams (I'm just starting on this part so, this is the only one I'm ready to share):


Help finding these in the plans

Q: Working on my QB and I am trying to figure out when to rivet these open holes. I know the two small holes are for the fuel tank attach bracket but I can't seam to find the rivet callout for the bigger holes or when I should rivet them. Any help would be appreciated TIA




2/23/2022.  Issue #5,514.   Need a Contract SIC?

Day 10,999 ...PaulvS in Australia

Today is day number 10,999 since I started this project and even if that number was for hours it seems like a lot.

First thing this morning I went flying and was in the air at 6:00 a.m. before it gets too hot and turbulent. That is helping to keep me going until the day when I can fly the RV, even though I'm still enjoying the building process.

Today I'll be fitting the windshield frame roll bar, which is 1/8" too wide and despite jacking it in about 4 inches it just springs back. However, the luggage strap pulls it in easily enough to drill the holes in the side rails (must be careful to avoid accidentally drilling into the longerons!)

I recently painted the forward part of the cockpit while that area is still accessible. Once the sub-panel and panel ribs are installed it will be too difficult to reach for spraying. The paint is 2-pack polyurethane, which needs good protection against breathing in the fumes and also extracting the overspray out of the work shed.

I'll post some other updates on fitting the floors, seats, controls and tail surfaces... I have been a bit too focussed on building to write about it!


A New Poll


Rivets on RV7 rudder reinforcement plate

On my RV7 rudder reinforcement plate, I have 2 holes that do not appear on the drawings (see attached pic). The holes are also on the rudder horn. I did not match drill these since they weren't on the drawing, but I'm wondering if I should have. Anyone match drill and rivet the holes shown? Thanks in advance for the input.



My friend is just starting (40 hrs) to fly his RV-14 (tail dragger) and finds that after touch down the aircraft wants to go to the left. Says it takes a lot of right rudder to compensate. I don't remember noticing this on my 14A but could be on his.
I'm thinking it's perhaps the vertical stabilizer offset (to be honest I don't recall which way it is offset). He asked me to ask here for other people's experience.
Thanks Ron


Wiring harness dilemma

I had Stein build out my panel- it is truly a work of art and very well done. I had all the boxes fitted to my sub panel and configured the GTX 45 to fit behind the panel. When I got the panel back, I noticed the GTX portion was about 8 inches too short and won't allow the transponder to fit where I intended.
All of the other space is accounted for on the sub panel.

Any suggestions on how to get the length I need or am I stuck trying to splice into the transponder (I don't like that thought at all).

The photo shows the wires forward. They should be toward the firewall so the transponder could slide from the front. If I reverse the mount, I have no room to slide the box in considering the firewall and rudder pedals.


Anyone with Aviation Physiology Knowledge?

Hello All,

How do we use a Pulse Oximeter if we don't live at sea level?

AOPA articles suggest we keep our oxygen saturation above 95% on our pulse oximeters as we climb unpressurized. I live at 6,800' and play much higher. I just got a pulse oximeter with waveform display and PI% ( a good one ). Sitting on my couch I put it on and saw 90-92% oxygen saturation!

I have done the hypoxia chamber many times so I know when I am hypoxic, at that moment I was not. The device must be wrong?

According to available articles and a few folks who work in the general medical industry, what I saw was normal for where I live. Long term exposure to reduced partial pressures of O2 encourage the body to maintain more red blood cells. So normal oxygen transport happens with lower blood saturation.

Okay, great I get that. Probably why it wasn't a struggle to fly around sans oxygen at cabin alts in the 20s when I was wearing a bag.

But how now do I (or anyone else who lives and breaths at altitude) use a pulse oximeter? Anyone come across guidance for this?

Obviously there is trial and error, the 'E' in experimental. But in this case that's probably not the way to go at least not in the cockpit.
Vincent 'Duck' Wawrzynski
LtCol USMC (Ret)


RV-14 Premium Glareshield Option Now Officially Available ...advertiser

Aircraft Specialty Flightlines is extremely EXCITED to announce a new Premium glare shield option for the RV-14/14A.

This product was developed by an RV14 builder and has undergone extensive fit testing.

Each Glareshield is a hand crafted work of art and takes about 6 weeks from order placement until delivery.

Please feel free to reach out to us with any questions. Ordering and more information is available on our RV-14 Products page.


Flap assembly is vexing me

I'm working on flaps, I have the skeleton done and ready to start skinning. Is there a trick to getting the nose skins into position? I'm clecoing the top into place, then trying to maneuver the bottom into position, but it's not wanting to go. Applying force is just twisting the spar, warping the top skin and creating oilcan dents in the nose skin. Ultimately not in a very visible spot, but very frustrating.

These nose skins (along with others) are underbent for where they need to go. Are they really intended to be installed with so much spring tension in them? If I was meant to finish bending them so they relax into their final position, I must have missed that part of the handbook, and I'm clueless as to how I'd do it anyway. I feel a bit lost today.
Scott K
KU42 / RV-9A [Wings]


Mothership News


Throttle lever bracket ...-12

Q: does it come in the finish kit? I have my power plant kit and avionics kit. I see in the KIA it tells me to mount the throttle lever and shows the bracket but no part number and I don't have anything like it yet.

A: Finish kit, Section 32 with flight controls.


Canopy again

 So I am back to the canopy again. I did not do the side skirts a year and a half ago when I was working the canopy because I thought they would be prone to damage during storage.

So I am doing the side skirts now. I am following Jcarne's method (what an awesome build log here on VAF, my hero). The side skirts will be the Van's aluminum that are sika-flexed to the canopy and riveted to the canopy frame. I am going to paint the side skirts white to match the canopy frame. I think I found a Jet flex paint that matches the Van's white.

The rear skirt will be fiberglassed and sika-flex bonded to the canopy. (Although my canopy fit is good enough for a metal skirt, I presently have no rivets or screw holes in the plexiglass, and I do not want to add screw holes to hold the metal rear skirt)

The windscreen will be fitted last. I still have to paint the glare shield and the middle brace a light grey before installing the wind screen.



2/22/2022.  Issue #5,513.
  Taking the day off due to a flying milestone two years in the making.  Monday I finally added the following to my pilot cert:

  • G-V (550) PIC type rating

  • ATP

  Yep, did the ATP hop in a G550 sim.  Earned enough green stamps doing part time simulator support at CAE in the Phenom program to get an initial slot in a 'Level II' jet.  Mucho thanks to a few friends who knew I've been working towards this over the last two years and provided motivation and encouragement.  Lots of buttons.  Will try to put into words in a few days how the RV basically led to all this - wouldn't have happened if I hadn't found RVation.
  Doug need sleep.
Need a Contract SIC?



2/21/2022.  Issue #5,512.
  Howdy howdy!  Beautiful wx here in N.TX this weekend.  Just FYI Tuesday's edition might be later than usual - Mon my sched is pretty clobbered.  Hope you had a wonderful weekend.
Need a Contract SIC?

1:30pm DFW time Sunday.


Transparant Firewall

I made a dummy firewall using acrylic to act as a design tool for laying out where the various firewall-mounted components go on my tiny RV-3B project. Unlike some of the other aircraft, this area is not defined well at all in the plans. The dummy firewall is working out really well and I recommend it if you are in the same position. Of course it could work for other types of homebuilt...


Another 10 ordered!

Good morning all.
First post and just took the plunge! Well, given delivery schedules, I'll take the plunge in 11 months when my tail kit comes.

A very brief bio- first plane kit or otherwise so not too familiar with GA but I'm a 27 year airline pilot. So I can at least talk on the radio. That's all I can promise at this point. I've built houses, restored cars and have every tool known to man other than of course anything to do with aircraft sheet metal. That will change shortly. I'm also not "pilot sized". Ex-football player here and I'm 6'5" and 265 on a good day. I had been looking at C-210's but became disgusted with their prices and conditions. $225k for a 50 year old airplane with orange shag carpeting and a mid-time motor. No thanks.
So... Not too early to start asking questions I suppose.. and yes, I realize this question is random and out of order and should probably be asking how to build the toolbox first but I have a ton of questions and ideas swirling around and this just happens to be one of them.
Regarding the -10. My plan is to have a flying Audi. I really into nice interiors. I've been watching the magic of AxiationX aircraft interiors on can do on older aircraft on youtube and logging all sorts of cool ideas.
I initially was a fan of the Aerosport overhead console but given my height, I'm thinking of forgoing any sort of overhead console. I know I can put eyeball vents in the panel for the front two seats but what about the rear seats? Can eyeball vents be incorporated into a center armrest between the two front seats? The headliner will most likely be quilted Alcantara with a 1/4" foam backing.
I'm simply trying to create a roadmap for the next 6 years. I look forward to hearing your ideas and eventually being able to contribute to this wonderful community.
Paul Hansen
Camas, WA



Anyone drop a screw, nut, washer or screw bit into this engine black hole, especially when working on the baffles? I've done it several times. Gotten all but one washer out after much gnashing of teeth and bad words. I have a magnetic probe but couldn't find it so I fashioned this telescoping retrieval stick from my poor man's borescope camera holder.
Fortunately was able to remove the screw bit before it slipped away from access/sight.


The Mystery Sound

Greetings Hive Mind -- I'd like your help to identify the source of a sound and determine if its going to cost me $$$ or worse...

The hardware/configuration:
200 hour TTAE RV-7 with Lycoming YIO-360-A1B6,
Dual Lightspeed Plasma III ignitions,
Skytech PM/LS 149 starter,
EarthX ETX680 battery,
Cole Hersee/Littelfuse 24115 Master Relay,
Cole Hersee/Littelfuse 24021 Starter Relay - wiring as per OP-30, OP-31
Starter "jumper" removed - Starter Solenoid powered via separate 18ga wire from "I" post on Starter Relay.

The scenario:
OAT was about 40*F and I followed the normal pre-ignition sequence. I turned key to engage starter and heard a sound similar to a cat being crushed by the garage door -- a high pitched "squeeeeeeeeeee" followed by the engine firing on the first blade (< 180* of rotation).

The sound stopped the instant I released the key, so I suspect the noise is coming from the starter motor, starter solenoid, or perhaps the starter relay.

All the connections are tight, corrosion free, etc.

I did replace the starter solenoid at ~40 hours with the Borg Warner BWD S5613 and it's been trouble free since...

Anyone else experience this?


My RV Weekend


Things I did not think of - staging purchases for the longest warranty period

Or, rather, things I thought of but shrugged off....

I don't think the normal duration of building optimizes for this condition. Consider purchasing any electrical component as late as possible to ensure the longest warranty period while flying. I did this for avionics but not for the other little stuff.

In my situation, I optimized for kit completeness. I have had several components fail that fell outside the warranty period as a consequence of my build pace (which I was perfectly happy with).

In the latest example, when I ordered the empennage and wing kits (2014, 2015 - does not seem that long ago, but ages...), I also ordered the tail and wingtip lights. Those kits were completed and sitting on a shelf till assembly. 5 years passed before I had first flight.

Two years into flying, the taillight fails and it is beyond warranty. Ok, happens... but also the design has changed, and the strobe now has a different lighting pattern. All strobes will not be in sync if I just replace the failed tail unit. Ah well.

So, advice: if you can't build faster, stage the time bound warranty item purchases till near the end.


Panel Finalizing ...JET14


Pulled the Trigger Today

Sent in my order for all four kits, since I'm retired and need a project. The waiting begins.
Greg Fuess
Albuquerque, NM
Planning an RV-14



2/18/2022.  Issue #5,511.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
Need a Contract SIC?

A Wingtip Lens Fairing a Little Different

...seen at Monk's



From the Mothership


HS rib flanges

Related to this thread, is this an example of needing to bend the flanges of the ribs to 90 degrees so they are parallel to the skin and spars? Assuming that might help some with the wrinkles?

I didn't adjust the rib flanges on the VS as it seemed like they aligned pretty well with the trapezoidal shape.


SF Sport Aviation Interior ...Traash PIREP

I covered doors and overhead / center tunnels with leather to complete the feel. Use the A/C all the time.

Center console fits my long legs better than others was it isn't as wide and has knee cutouts. Very comfortable and room to move knees in a crosswind.

All parts fit exactly.


Leok's Wiring Diagrams

Here is an example of my diagrams. They are the same format as Garmin uses in their G3X documentation, all done in Power Point. Once the individual diagram blocks are built up, it is a matter of copy and paste and relabel.



2/17/2022.  Issue #5,510.  Need a Contract SIC?

My RV Weekend ...some late entries


Power Wiring for Avionics -- Shielded?

I'm working on writing up a wiring schedule for the purpose of buying multiconductor and shielded cables. Reading through various installation manuals I see many signal cables with shields, which I would expect to see.

I would also expect to see shields on power wiring for some items, but they're not called out...for instance the GSA 28 autopilot servos don't show shields on their power/ground wiring.

I know there are recommendations out there for shielding certain types of wiring like strobes and that wiring in the vicinity of, e.g., magnetometers should be shielded.

Are there general recommendations for shielding power wiring to devices? I'm not seeing them in AC43-13, but may be missing them.

I do intend to return power ground wires back to a common ground bus, or in some cases a local ground terminal block that is in turn gorunded to the main ground bus. Should these be shielded?

I've also seen some recommedations for using twisted pairs for power wiring running near sensitive devices.

Are there some solid best practices out there that people can recommend? I don't want to add weight unnecessarily, but don't want to have to revisit wiring once it's pulled, either.


Seen at Monk's

...yeah, that's a car horn under the hood of an -8.  And it's loud.



Mickey Coggins Old School 'Wiring Diagram'

I did my nice drawings later for the POH/AFM.


Don Broussard RV-9 Oil Cooler Inlet Duct

Red RTV seals the inlet duct to the cooler. Saran Wrap is a must. After it cured I trimmed off the excess with a razor knife. Another consideration was the hot air coming from the heater valve when the heat is off. To prevent flooding the area where the cooler is now located with hot air I bent up a little box out of thin stainless to deflect it down towards the exit.


Trouble fitting the WD-01021-L-1 gear mount

I'm currently slow building the RV-10 fuselage and have had to comply with SB-00007 as part of the mid-fuse bulkheads. The SB is the remediation procedure for the cracking described in SL-00003. For my kit, I needed to enlarge the holes in the center section to match the new landing gear mounts.

Ok, so the hole enlarging went fine and I can easily slide all the bolts in the center section holes. The right side landing gear mount also went fine, but I am having a terrible time with the left side. Specifically, the AN3 bolts that go across the top of the landing gear mount across the top of the bulkhead will not line up. Everything else (the AN4 bolts, AN5 at the corner, and two AN3 bolts at the offshoot down at the bottom) are fine. The overlap/misalignment is not huge, but enough to see when looking straight down through the gear mount holes. I've put the gear mounts next to each other and it's possible there is a slight bend in the left one, but I could also be seeing things.

I am talking with Vans support but was curious if anyone else has encountered this, either during the SB on a flying plane or on a slow build fuse.

PA-28R-200 flying
RV-10 Under Construction


Landing gear bracket ...-8

The outboard landing gear attach bracket for my right gear is ever so slightly bent. The result is that I can't get bolts to go through the bracket and the wear plate. Given the bracket is pretty stout, and anyone suggest a method of straightening it out?


David Paule -3B Update

Figured this would be a good time to update the various schematics.



2/16/2022.  Issue #5,509.
Pls excuse the shorter than usual edition today - 6 hours in the sim on motion Tues (4hrs in checkrides).  15 approaches (9 OEI).  6 V1 cuts.  I've been sufficiently shaken and stirred and crave sleep. <g>
Need a Contract SIC?

Randall Henderson's Low Tech Wiring Diagram

Am I the only one who does it this way? Maybe just the only one not too proud to show my low-tech version.


FW mounted oil cooler

RV9 with the small cooler, but there appears to be room for the bigger one. Cooler mounts on 3/4" angles riveted to the firewall and the structural angles on the aft side. Cooler is angled so exit air flows toward toward the cowl exit. Home rolled glass adapters and super flexible hose.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress


Nose Wheel Fairing Bracket - Which one?

During my conditional inspection I discovered that the right front fairing bracket on my 7A has a crack in it.

I am not the builder, but I have the plans, looked up the part #, verified it on Vans and ordered a replacement. The part I ordered is "U-00713C-R-1 Nose Wheel Fairing Bracket, Right" which is for the 7A and 9A kits. The part came in today, looked great and I was really excited. That is until I discovered that it isn't the same size as my old one.

So I need some assistance... Do these come in different sizes? If so, based on the pics, can someone tell me which I have and need to order?

Thanks in advance for the help!


Panel PIREP ...AlpineYoda

Just got mine from SteinAir. It is a beauty! Putting it in will require quite a bit of disassembly and reassembly, so enjoy it now before I mess it up.


Prop won't cycle, where to start troubleshooting?

Mods, feel free to move this to the right section, wasn't sure where to put it.

New Titan IO-370 from Aerosport Power (2 hours of engine run-in before it left the factory). New Whirlwind 300 CS prop. New PCU5000 governor. New Saber 2.5" CS adapter.

We've done our first few engine runs on the ground and everything looks good so far except that the prop won't cycle. I've got a total of 4 engine runs on it (short runs to keep the CHTs down on the ground). Today we had 180-200 degree oil, 90psi @2000 rpm and I've probably done 2 dozen cycles on it. It's probably 15 or so 3 counts where I pull the prop back and then cycle it forward, and then 5-10 longer cycles where I leave the prop back for 10-15 seconds before pushing it back forward. All total, there's probably over a minute of the prop pulled all the way back at 2000rpm.

There's zero rpm change so far. The blades appear to be slightly more coarse now after shutdown then when I first started, but something isn't right. During the longer cycles, manifold pressure will increase by about 1" when I pull the prop back and it will drop when I push it forward, but there's no RPM change.

Looking for next steps. Do I try it again at 2200 rpm? Do I just leave the prop all the way back until it does something? I installed the gasket so the screen was matched up to the recess in the governor body, but maybe I put the whole thing on upside down? It was clocked dam close to where it should have sat from the factory, governor spec sheet attached. Planning on calling aerosport, whirlwind and APS tomorrow but thought I would get your guys' ideas as well. Thanks.



2/15/2022.  Issue #5,508.  Need a Contract SIC?

Found at Monk's (Richmond Aircraft Service) ...dr

My home field (52F).  Elevator.  Check those nuts.

A five second video:


Please identify my oil filter debris

I found these debris while cleaning my oil filter screen. I have a reusable oil filter, not a paper filter.

I normally change oil and clean filter every 25 hrs. This time, I have have let it go for 60 hrs, or did not record my last oil change. Not sure.

Thank you.


Ice Cream Social cancelation and news

I have not been as active on the forum the last few months due to some changes. Unfortunately my wife and I will no longer be hosting our Ice Cream Social anymore. After 14 years running, our family is making some large life changes and the social will no longer be possible. We are thankful for all the friendships we developed as a result of this. Thankful for how it grew and how it provided folks a mission. I encourage those that appreciated the event, to think about how to do something similar locally to keep the RV and flying community alive.

On a more positive note (if you are still reading), my wife and I moved to Oregon. I have been working for Van's Aircraft for a few months. Yeap.. THE Van's Aircraft. Specifically working in the prototype/engineering side of things. I am pretty dang excited about the job, working with the folks that made my dream possible and working with the products.


Wheel Pants Completed!

It took over 220 hours, but the wheel pants are finally completed and mounted on the legs. Hooray. More detail appears in the RV-14 area under "Show Us the Status..."where the bodywork is described. On to mounting the engine!

Atlanta trip for a Cousin's funeral

Unfortunately I needed to go to Atlanta for a Cousin's funeral/celebration of life, Fortunately I was able to take the RV and make the most of it. Thanks to Rebecca and Kyle for responding to my inquiries about the Atlanta area.

I busted Lil' Dude out of school a couple hours early, it was their 100th day of school and they dressed up as 100 year olds. He had on a plad shirt, suspenders, bow tie, a cane and we popped the lenses out of some cheap sunglasses.


The next old farts invite ...turbo


Copperstate Fly-In update

Quick update to this weekend's Copperstate Fly-in. Some recent posts noted that the airport was closing to incoming traffic from 8-11am this Friday. This morning both the Copperstate and City of Buckeye websites now show airport closure will begin at 10:00am. They reduced Friday's 3 hour STOL competiton down to 1 hour (10-11am). Much better for those flying in.

Be sure to continue monitoring Notams and websites for further updates, but thought it was worth sharing since some were discouraged by the 8am planned closure.


Flare Update

Did a little more polishing on the cone, switched to a little bit heavier oil, played with it a little more, and produced this flare. Better than the others I think. The video was good but he wasn't doing anything more or less than what I'm doing.




2/14/2022.  Issue #5,507.  Need a Contract SIC?

Follow Up on Hangar Lift ...Swiss14A

...this is how we did it in the end: one bracket at the engine mount (both sides) and one bracket as in the construction drawing earlier on the aft side of the main spar. Had to get longer close tolerance bolts of course, but got them from Genuine Aircraft Hardware Co.
Of course I calculated all possible c.g.'s. Works very well so far.


All my electrical files are here...johnbright

In folder 1):
"Elec Schem N1921R Z101..." is the top-level power schematic.
"Elec Schem N1921R Avionics" is the Dynon-centric avionics stuff. I don't draw every wire but rather create lists of connections at devices as I read the installation manuals.

I'll fill in missing info and rev the schematics as I wire the AC.


And Vern's.


HB-YAF flies :)

...and she flies <g>.  First flight was February 8th, after almost 4 years of building.


RV-4 tank leaks

Hello all,
first time posting on the active side. This week I bought a new to me RV4 with a fresh condition inspection by Base Leg aviation. Unfortunately upon landing back at home base the left tank showed leaks on the aft side of the tank, pics attached (According to the seller it was just repaired a few weeks ago). My hope is, that the the area in the 3rd pic is from the puddle of the first 2, not sure yet.

My questions for the ones that had to deal with this type of leak before:
What is the most effective way to fix limited leaks like that? Does one have to go inside the tank or can it be fixed from the outside?
Does the old pro-seal have to be removed or just cleaned before applying new sealant? Whats the best way doing this not causing damage to other sealing areas? Is there some wonder sealant that can be used for small leaks like that?
Any other hints?

Thanks in advance for any help!!


My RV Weekend


-3B Update ...David Paule

The baffle kit is sort of a fill-in right now. It's in progress, and I'm accumulating a number of drilled, deburred and ready for assembly parts. I need to get the finish on them before that, though.

One of the things that's much easier to do with the fuselage flopped over on its side is finishing off the mixer fasteners. I installed the grip on the control stick and bolted it to the mixer, and the mixer to the fuselage and elevator pushrod. All move with no perceptible friction and no perceptible free play. I used castellated elastic clock nuts and cotter pins on all joints.


Finishing up stuff under panel ...PilotjohnS 9A

While waiting to paint the dashboard, i was finishing up stuff under the panel. I decided to make a j bend in the vent tubing to keep rain out. Not sure if it helps or not, but what the heck, I had the extra tubing anyway.


The power of the grin

The RV grin is so powerful the airplane doesn't even have to get off the ground to make it appear.
Here's my son wearing his after he was at the controls for one of the ground test runs as I examined the engine and other firewall forward items.
(it was throughly secured to a framework of bar joists so there was no way for it to lift a wheel and do a pirouette.


Seat cushions

Here are some plans for RV seat cushion foam. It looks like one answer to the OP question is roughly 2" for the back and on top of the wedge that goes in the seat base, for shop testing purposes. I believe that these are based on a design by Tony Bingelis, from an era when builders "typically" sewed their own seat cushions!


Flat rivet lines

Just finished riveting the vertical stabilizer on my -10. And looking for pro tips for keeping rivet lines flat.

Observations are spar lines with thicker material underneath are more forgiving than ribs. The individual rib flanges seem to give more and allow the skin to more easily deform.

I understand it's important to balance the pressure between the gun side and the bucking bar. The right air pressure is important. Any other pro tips out there for getting smooth rivet lines?

I used a 2x gun with a 1" mushroom set from Cleveland. Thanks!


Adventures in Tube Flaring



2/11/2022.  Issue #5,506
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need a Contract SIC?

Show us your Wiring Diagrams ...Draker entry (12 pages)

[ed. Thank you to those submitting their wiring diagrams - the nerd in me is very happy to see this thread.  v/r,dr]

I created this schematic document to design (and later, document) N12VD's electronic gizmos. Page 1 is an overall block diagram of the system. Page 2 is the wiring harness, including bulkhead passthroughs and connectors. Page 3 is the CANbus layout. The rest of the pages are wiring schematics for each subsystem.

All 400 circuits are labeled with an alphanumeric name, and those labels are attached to both sides of every wire run in the plane. Connector pinouts are called out in this doc as well. Having this doc ahead of time made building the wiring harness and connecting everything very simple and straightforward. I think I only had about 5 circuits wired incorrectly, mostly Tx and Rx lines switched, and no smoke upon first power-on.


Repair advice: Trailing edge wedge countersunk hole too deep

I over-countersunk the tapered hole on the RV-14 right elevator trailing edge wedge. Hole size seems fine but the dimpled test coupon slides around. I can't imagine this is a critical structural area, so tell me the quickest/simplest/cheapest way to repair this so I can move on. Possible solutions I've learned about:

1. Get a new wedge ($100 with shipping and a 1-month wait, no thanks)
2. Go up to a AD4 (there would be edge distance issues)
3. Fill with epoxy and re-countersink (I don't have any epoxy and don't know what kind to get)


Cracked engine mount!!

The right side motor mount on my RV-4 just above where it attaches to the gear socket is cracked (see photo). I hear this is not uncommon but I'm panicking anyway. Anyone know of a fix and if so, please advise. Perhaps others have made the repair. Weld then install a gusset? If so, anyone have them pre-made? Please advise. photos are appreciated.
Mike in Boulder, N605RV


Heart Attack

Had one yesterday so I'm killing time in the hospital waiting to hear about an angiogram etc,etc. Doing fine now. Did a "heart" search on VAF and got a bunch of good info. One good thing is there haven't been new threads on this since 2010. Good health I hope!

I'm 71 & healthy til now but have a family history of heart issues. I have had chest & jaw pain episodes and was concerned about losing my medical. I recently aced a stress test and echo cardio gram. I'm told now that they are not all that conclusive.

I'll be working on getting my medical back after this is over. Did it once before! I had depression issues some 20 hrs ago. One of the big things that got me thru that was a goal to finish the RV, get my medical back and fly again - RV therapy! That's one reason it took 15 yrs to finish it.

In the mean time - Carry On!
Dennis Enns


Nose Gear Fairing Screwup

I hate to advertise my mistakes, but this might help someone else not make the same one as I.

The piano hinge that holds the nose fairing together is specified as a 0.063 hinge. That's the pin diameter, not the thickness of the hinge flange. Duh. Shoulda read the Chapter 5 stuff better describing this.

Anyway, I used a 0.125 piano hinge. Thought it would be ok, if a bit stout, but getting the big 0.125" pin into the hinge is tough as it doesn't bend easily, and needs to to be inserted.

So, I removed the 0.125 hinge, epoxied up the holes (no, they won't line up with the 0.063 hinge), did the bodywork, and assembled it correctly with the 0.063 hinge. About a 12 hour mistake, all in. Oh yeah, had to order another 0.125 piano hinge. All in all, not too bad a goof up. And, the new slenderer pin will go in and out Much easier.



2/10/2022.  Issue #5,505