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Akzonobel 10p4-2nf vs 463-12-8
- Thread starter Z32MadMan
- Start date
Fyi, I have been using the 463-12-8 Akzo Nobel. Seems to spray well.
I use the Kobalt HVPL gun with the disposable hopper from Harbor freight.
I do find that the base half of the epoxy must be thoroughly stirred before dispensing out. I use a wire rod on a drill.
I use 2oz syringes from tractor supply for sucking up fluid and dispensing into the mixing cup.
I use the Kobalt HVPL gun with the disposable hopper from Harbor freight.
I do find that the base half of the epoxy must be thoroughly stirred before dispensing out. I use a wire rod on a drill.
I use 2oz syringes from tractor supply for sucking up fluid and dispensing into the mixing cup.
Attachments
I’ve been spraying Utech E-250 primer for a couple years now. Last summer I mixed a batch and fish eyes everywhere! Even in the cup of the gun. Spent several hours cleaning and checking everything. Turned out the “sterile” syringes I was using had some kind of lubricant on the plunger.
I've been using 10P4-2NF on and off for several years. I bought it because it was advertised as less toxic than 463-12-8. 463-12-8 contains hexavalent chromium, a known carcinogen. (So does Bonderite 1201, IIRC.) 10P4-2NF does not. Both may result in epoxy sensitization, so wear your PPE (eyes, lungs, skin).
10P4-2NF sprays well, with a 1.3 or even a 0.8 mm tip. Again, wear breathing and eye protection when spraying, and by eye protection, I don't mean your regular glasses. And by lung protection, the 3M masks with the magenta filters are good. 10P4-2NF cleans up well with acetone or MEK. It dries to the touch within half an hour or so; letting it bake in the sun seems to accelerate the process. Once it cures, you won't find it easy to get overspray off any unintended targets. Hence the comment about regular glasses. It resists dimpling and wiping with acetone or MEK after curing for a day or two, if you did a good job of degreasing and scuffing the surface to be primed. Try not to scuff the alclad layer off 2024-T3; it's only 0.001" or so thick. If I have time to let the part dry thoroughly, prepping using Bon Ami and a Scotchbrite pad works well, with thorough rinsing and drying. If I'm in more of a hurry, I wipe thoroughly with acetone or MEK, scuff with a Scotchbrite pad, wipe again with acetone or MEK, rinse and repeat until my rag is fairly clean after wiping. It's good to have lotsa rags (lint-free). I've found HF guns costing from $20ish to $140ish seem to work about the same, but I'm an occasional primer sprayer, not looking for a professional auto body finish. My 0.8mm gun is intended for Cerakote, but works with 10P4-2NF. For touchup, even a $10 Preval spray gun from HD works OK, after you get used to it. And the working life of 10P4-2NF can be extended to several days by putting the excess in the freezer in an amber pill bottle. I suggest adding a little Bloxygen (argon gas) to the Part A and B cans before completely closing the lids, seems to last longer that way. (Argon is heavier than air, and blocks oxidation.) Another product I like is 3M High Power Spray Gun Cleaner.
Amen to bimmer1980 on thoroughly mixing Part A (the green stuff) before mixing with Part B. The solids tend to precipitate down to the bottom of the can. There's at least one YouTube video on making a paint shaker out of a brass tumbler, e.g. a Frankford Arsenal tumbler. I find I need it more for Cerakote than for 10P4-2NF.
You live in FL, I live in AZ. Temp and humidity may make a difference.
Sorry, I went all pedantic again.
10P4-2NF sprays well, with a 1.3 or even a 0.8 mm tip. Again, wear breathing and eye protection when spraying, and by eye protection, I don't mean your regular glasses. And by lung protection, the 3M masks with the magenta filters are good. 10P4-2NF cleans up well with acetone or MEK. It dries to the touch within half an hour or so; letting it bake in the sun seems to accelerate the process. Once it cures, you won't find it easy to get overspray off any unintended targets. Hence the comment about regular glasses. It resists dimpling and wiping with acetone or MEK after curing for a day or two, if you did a good job of degreasing and scuffing the surface to be primed. Try not to scuff the alclad layer off 2024-T3; it's only 0.001" or so thick. If I have time to let the part dry thoroughly, prepping using Bon Ami and a Scotchbrite pad works well, with thorough rinsing and drying. If I'm in more of a hurry, I wipe thoroughly with acetone or MEK, scuff with a Scotchbrite pad, wipe again with acetone or MEK, rinse and repeat until my rag is fairly clean after wiping. It's good to have lotsa rags (lint-free). I've found HF guns costing from $20ish to $140ish seem to work about the same, but I'm an occasional primer sprayer, not looking for a professional auto body finish. My 0.8mm gun is intended for Cerakote, but works with 10P4-2NF. For touchup, even a $10 Preval spray gun from HD works OK, after you get used to it. And the working life of 10P4-2NF can be extended to several days by putting the excess in the freezer in an amber pill bottle. I suggest adding a little Bloxygen (argon gas) to the Part A and B cans before completely closing the lids, seems to last longer that way. (Argon is heavier than air, and blocks oxidation.) Another product I like is 3M High Power Spray Gun Cleaner.
Amen to bimmer1980 on thoroughly mixing Part A (the green stuff) before mixing with Part B. The solids tend to precipitate down to the bottom of the can. There's at least one YouTube video on making a paint shaker out of a brass tumbler, e.g. a Frankford Arsenal tumbler. I find I need it more for Cerakote than for 10P4-2NF.
You live in FL, I live in AZ. Temp and humidity may make a difference.
Sorry, I went all pedantic again.
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