[briand]

I'm finally forcing myself to get started on the gas tanks but I have one question.

On this site (http://www.rvproject.com/20020717.html) the author says to drill the holes like this:

First, drill a hole in the center of one flange of each Z bracket. For the inboard one, drill the hole far enough away from the web so you can get a socket or open-end wrench over the bolt head. For the other six, drill the hole as close to the web as possible while still providing enough room for a nutplate to fit properly. I clamped some scraps on the drill press to make quick work of this task.

Why not drill in the middle in both axis'? I don't see an explanation for using this method anywhere on Dan's site. Is it because the center line on the other side will not line up with tank baffle when you drill the Z's Van's way.

 

[Captain_John]

What Dan is saying is that you will have a hard time getting a pop rivet tool onto the other side of the Z bracket when it comes time to do your z bracket to baffle riveting if you don't leave enough space.

Also, the only way to tighten the inboard ones will be with a nutdriver or very slim socket if this advice is not heeded.

He is right on the money!

CJ

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

I haven't tried Dan's method. Sounds good. At the same time, I used Van's method and it worked just fine as well. You just have to be willing to grind a little off the nose of your pop rivet tool. Good luck and enjoy that tank work!

 

[JohnR]

I just did this and offset mine like on Dan's site and it worked well. I still had to grind quite a bit off of the pop rivet tool but had a cheap one just for that purpose.

Have fun!

 

[TShort]

I scratched my head over that for a bit, too.

By offsetting the nutplates toward the web of the bracket it effectively moves the holes that you will pop rivet later (on the opposite flange of the bracket) away from the web - making it easier to get the puller head on there.

T.

 

[briand]

OK, I used his EXACT method and it went smooth. Thanks guys, I now understand the pop rivet tool clearance issue and that makes sense. On the inboard one I ended up drilling dead center and I can (barely) get a 1/4" drive socket on it, I'll probably take the socket to my scotch brite wheel to remove a few thou. before bolting that bracket on.

 

[dbuds2]

Using bolt instead of rivets

Has anyone used a threaded fastener, bolt, to attach the z brackes to the tank/baffle/rib instead of blind rivets? It sure would give more access if using an allen wrench or phillips screw.

If yes what did you do about sealing and what fastener.