S

StuBob

Well Known Member
First post.

I'm setting up shop for a soon-to-be started RV-7. I've read a thousand posts here about table height, size, etc, and have a quick question.

I have in my garage the disassembled parts of a 23" x 72" workbench with a 3/4" plywood top and two shelves (if I put it back together the way it started). It was here when I moved in, and has probably been here for years.

The question: Building from a new 7 kit, is it important that the table be square and level? I worked on a 6 many years ago and spent a lot of time with a square and plumb bob. But ISTM that the current kits, being "self-jigging," don't require that level of precision.

Thanks for your input, and for years of conversation I can search!
 
Welcome to VAF -

Level and square is good to keep things from rolling off, but not for part of a set up. Flat is certainly good for many parts.

Mike will be along shortly.
 
BillL said:
Welcome to VAF -

Level and square is good to keep things from rolling off, but not for part of a set up. Flat is certainly good for many parts.

Mike will be along shortly.
Click to expand...

Welcome Stuart
I agree. Flat and reasonably level.
 
You might find that having overhangs is helpful when clamping to the table.

And perhaps that size is a bit small. But no worries, if so, you can always make a new one.

Dave
 
Thanks, guys. That's what I suspected.

I'm already acquainted with the dangers of paralysis by analysis and I'm determined not to make it a habit. I'm not off to a very good start!
 
Flat and reasonably level is fine. Make it stiff, though. I have EAA 100 benches that I screwed together. Even though the screws are tight, it moves a bit and squeaks when I really push on it. That doesn't really affect anything, though, if I glued it up when I built, it would be nice and solid and stiff (and permanent!)
 
What everyone said plus

I'd use particle board instead of ply and with mine, I made sure the tables were at a comfortable working height.
 
David Paule said:
You might find that having overhangs is helpful when clamping to the table.

And perhaps that size is a bit small.

Dave
Click to expand...

I agree with Dave .... the overhang for clamping is a big deal. I built my table before knowing there was an EAA designed model. I left 1" of overhang for clamping ... barely adequate I found out. I would leave at least 1.5" if I were building the table today.
Live and learn.:eek:
 
I used deck screws and also glued the pieces together with Titebond III wood glue. My tables are solid and stiff.

They are not the EAA design but simpler. One of them is shown on the right.

fktgjq.jpg


I've made 8 of these so far. One holds my Big Green Egg barbecue, one holds my Lycoming O-320. They are all robust.

Make the end frames, 4 pieces each, first and make them identical. Either build them on top of each other or make a simple jig. The ends are 2x4.

The bottom rails are 2x4 too and line up with the bottom horizontal piece on the end to support a shelf. The rails overlap the vertical posts.

The rails under the table top are 2x6 and are even with the top pieces of the end frames.

Now flip the assembly upside down. Screw and glue a piece of plywood (not particle board) under the very bottom corners, one per corner. These are something like 6" square. Screw a caster to each corner.

Flip back upright. Cut three 2x4 pieces so that they fit snugly between the top rails. Fit them in and line them up with the tops of the rails and the end pieces. Clamp from rail to rail, under the top rails, so that friction holds them in. Measure their locations.

Position the table top and drill 2 screw holes through the top into each of these new pieces. Not into the rails or the end pieces, just the new pieces.

Remove the top, countersink it for flat-head screws on top. Screw the top to these 3 new pieces. No glue needed here.

You're done.

The top can be removed easily enough now but remains secure in place. If necessary, flip the top upside down, move the 3 pieces to the other side, countersink and screw the top to the 3 pieces and you've got a new surface for free.

Dave
 
Another suggestion.
I bought some cheap thin carpet from the hardware store for the top of my bench. This will help protect parts from getting scratched by small aluminum shavings. I think a 6' X 8' roll was about $15. I attached it by stapling it to the top. (Hammer down the staples so they don't scratch anything.) Occasionally I had to get the vacuum up there to keep it clean, but well worth it.
 
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