ppilotmike

Well Known Member
I am wondering what people are using to label their wires when doing electrical and avionics. I was thinking of buying a "P-Touch" type of labeler to use for labeling my little storage boxes of inventoried items, but I want to make sure it's also capable of marking wires. I've heard some complain that the tape from P-touch type devices doesn't stick well enough to mark wires reliably. I figure, if I get something that's great for marking wires, I could also use it for inventory...
Any advice? I want to get something that will work for both.
 
I used labels printed with my computer with a 6 point font. Cut out the label and shrink to the wire with clear heat shrink tubing. ymmv.
 
I used some wire label sheets available from Stein Air - only $1 a piece (or they were). Then cover in clear heatshrink - very easy - looks professional.
 
DYMO RHINO PRO

I bought a used Dymo Rhino Pro that prints on heat shrink tubing. The cartridges are a bit pricey, but I bought it cheap and I want my stuff to look good. If it's in your budget, go for it. If not, you can write on heat shrink tubing with a pen and that also does the trick. Try a few and see how you like it.

If you want the label maker, search EBay, Amazon, and other places to find a good deal.

I hope to pass mine on when I'm done.

http://global.dymo.com/enNZ/PressRelease/RhinoPRO_5000.html

Don
 
Wire marking and labels

Mike,
There are several brands of label makers that will do what you need. Here's one that prints labels and shrink tube. http://www.wiremarkersplus.com/bee3_thermal_labeling_printer.html
In my past life, building robotics, we would use a Brady system with self laminating labels. Those labels can be written upon with a fine tip pen. Once wrapped around the wire they are very difficult to remove. A very good system since the label can be placed on the wire after it's connected.
there are many good systems out there and are fairly reasonable in price. Hope this helps.
 
Sure it does.

I've heard some complain that the tape from P-touch type devices doesn't stick well enough to mark wires reliably.

It sticks just fine, to itself.

Wrap it once around the wire, and back to itself. Make a "flag" that hangs off at right angle to the wire.

No, it is not as pretty as the "sleeve" look, but it is easy to find, easy to read, and anyway when the panel is done, it is out of sight.

And, cost is a lot lower:D
 
Wire labels

Mike,
By the way, here's a link to some self laminating labels that will work in a laser printer if you have one. They use Miccrosoft Word templates: http://cableorganizer.com/ziptape/print-on-label-sheets.html?s_kwcid=TC|6214|lsl-70-603||S||5517822135&gclid=CNTk4ZKEx6gCFcK8Kgod4hlIuQ
 
I bought the Rhino 5200

These are made using the smallest heat-shrink labels (1/4"), probable good for most of our electrical work. Next size up is 3/8". A previous post thought the 1/4" tape might not be tight on #22, but as you can see, it works fine. Sorry for the fuzzy photos, the print on the labels is sharp.
Rhinowirelabels.jpg
 
These are made using the smallest heat-shrink labels (1/4"), probable good for most of our electrical work. Next size up is 3/8". A previous post thought the 1/4" tape might not be tight on #22, but as you can see, it works fine. Sorry for the fuzzy photos, the print on the labels is sharp.

The trouble with the Rhino is the price of the shrink tubing.

IIRC - I think your example is past $2 jsut for those labels. Is there any loss for each label?
 
Laser printing

The 1/8" heat shrink labeling works well. It is rather expensive but looks very professional. I took that a step further and put a piece of clear over the label portion.

The printed label method then clear heat shrink is too time consuming. I'd rather spend a few bucks and save the time.

On my new 7, I made a spread sheet with every wire I would need (excluding the avionics wiring). This is included the trim servos, autopilot lighting etc... I had all of the wire laser marked every 4 inches to its purpose. Very nice to make a harness, run it where it needs to go then separate out for termination. On grounds and power, I also labeled as above for easy viewing.

The laser marking is not real cheap but I really like the results. I'm at work so I can't take a picture of the wire right now.
 
The trouble with the Rhino is the price of the shrink tubing.

IIRC - I think your example is past $2 jsut for those labels. Is there any loss for each label?

You are about right Mel, as usual.

The 1/4" cassette is $26 for 5'. $26/60inches = 43 cents per inch. So, the smaller labels in the photo were $.43 each and the larger label was $.83.
The Tefzel was .17, .22, and .25 per foot. Or on average about $.02 per foot. My plane will be about $70,000 each. I wish it were all cheaper.
Oh well.
 
You are about right Mel, as usual.

The 1/4" cassette is $26 for 5'. $26/60inches = 43 cents per inch. So, the smaller labels in the photo were $.43 each and the larger label was $.83.
The Tefzel was .17, .22, and .25 per foot. Or on average about $.02 per foot. My plane will be about $70,000 each. I wish it were all cheaper.
Oh well.

Is there any loss when you change casettes from one size to another?

Yep - it's all expensive....:(

gil A (not Mel...:)...)
 
Great responses!

Thanks guys for all the responses to my question. I had no idea the cartridges for the heat shrink printers was so expensive! So far, I'm thinking of going the printed labels route. I also like the idea of a heat shrink tube press thingy that allows me to write more easily on the tubing. Here is what I'm talking about:
http://www.buyheatshrink.com/dymo-label-writer/pictures/1734522 & 1738635 RHINO 101.JPG

The only thing I'm worried about is the writing smearing or wearing off. I'd rather not have to double wrap it with clear also.. Is hand writing on the shrink tape durable? and practicle?
 
I use Brady ID PAL at work for marking lots of wires. It was replaced by a different model last year but you can find it by googling. I use the cloth tape since it stays better and on really nice things I put the clear heat shrink over it. Heat shrink is really cheap so it doesn't hurt as insurance.

I believe that you can also get sheets to put in a laser printer but I've never gotten around to finding these. We have a p-touch around for labeling other flat things as well.
 
Another vote for 6 point test in Excel with clear sleeving

Almost finished wiring. To frugal for the high dollar wire labels. Used Excel to create 6 pint test. I think I used all 1" pieces of clear sleeving. Would recommend a laser jet printer instead of a paint jet just in case any water ever wicks down under the shrink sleeving.
Alan Jackson
Hartselle, AL
 
Final Choice

Well, again, thanks for all of the advice. I ended up buying a K-Sun BEE3 Label Maker for $99, shipped.

http://www.mitchellinstrument.com/k...d-industrial-label-maker.html?source=googleps

It prints on heat shrink tubing, makes peel off labels and even does barcoding (not sure I'll use that). The kit includes (1) label cartridge and (1) heat shrink cartridge, which I estimate to be worth about $50 ($25/cartridge). Therefore the machine cost me about $49. I couldn't find a good P-touch online for less than $30, and the cartridges would be around $13-$18/each. So I figure, with this printer, I'll get the best of both worlds for not much additional cost (about $0.25/inch as opposed to $0.16/inch). While the heat shrink tape cartridges will cost me a little more to mark wires, I think it will pay off in the end with 1) time savings vs. the "6 point font and clear shrink technique" and 2) professionally marked wire labels that won't come off in the long run.

I hope this thread helps future builders with this seemingly simple choice of tools. It sure helped me!

Mike
 
Mike,
By the way, here's a link to some self laminating labels that will work in a laser printer if you have one. They use Miccrosoft Word templates: http://cableorganizer.com/ziptape/print-on-label-sheets.html?s_kwcid=TC|6214|lsl-70-603||S||5517822135&gclid=CNTk4ZKEx6gCFcK8Kgod4hlIuQ

ColoCardinal - What dimension labels did you use?

When I installed a GRT EIS 4000 a couple of years ago I bought a RhinoPro and the heat shrink tape was expensive and I got a couple of bad rolls which made them REALLY expensive. I finally printed sheets of labels on yellow paper, cut them out, rolled them a little to get the shape right and used heat shrink to secure. Worked good but was time consuming.
 
Well, again, thanks for all of the advice. I ended up buying a K-Sun BEE3 Label Maker for $99, shipped.

http://www.mitchellinstrument.com/k...d-industrial-label-maker.html?source=googleps

It prints on heat shrink tubing, makes peel off labels and even does barcoding (not sure I'll use that). The kit includes (1) label cartridge and (1) heat shrink cartridge, which I estimate to be worth about $50 ($25/cartridge). Therefore the machine cost me about $49. I couldn't find a good P-touch online for less than $30, and the cartridges would be around $13-$18/each. So I figure, with this printer, I'll get the best of both worlds for not much additional cost (about $0.25/inch as opposed to $0.16/inch). While the heat shrink tape cartridges will cost me a little more to mark wires, I think it will pay off in the end with 1) time savings vs. the "6 point font and clear shrink technique" and 2) professionally marked wire labels that won't come off in the long run.

I hope this thread helps future builders with this seemingly simple choice of tools. It sure helped me!

Mike

Excellent Mike, now I know where to borrow one! :)
 
Time/Money that I have spent printing then clear heat shrinking=

4 hrs/$20 for paper, ink, heat shrink, bic lighter. Full IFR panel. I printed off a bunch at one time at 6 or 7 size font. Used 1/8" and 3/16" clear heat shrink for most wires. I have spent a good 100 hrs on avionics/wiring and still have final connections behind the panel. More on planning, so 4 hours is a drop in the bucket.

Time on project so far approx 1400+ hrs. I did not know how much it really cost to print those premium labels. I'll be spending the money I saved on fuel pretty soon. Like Mike S. says, once your done you won't see them anyway. I won't be washing under the panel so not worried too much about ink dilution. If I get water under there I'll have more problems than that.