SeanB

SeanB

Well Known Member
Looking for pics of the safety wire and wire/plumbing runs through the wing bellcrank and roll servo. How does everyone capture the third bolt with the safety wire in back? I've seen a few pics of this on builder's sites....got a few ideas.

Anyone else? Not a big fan of the sticky base for zip ties. I hear they can eventually come off. Seems to be a critical area for something to get loose.

If I use E6000 for the bases, any tricks to remove the double-sided foam tape?

Thanks!
 
Thanks, Mark. I guess I'll need to practice the safety wire thing. Can't seem to get everything looking correct just yet. Usually ends up in a tangled mess.
 
The safety wire looks right - all the strands tend to tighten the fastener.

And the goop looks fine, too - it covers the nut/bolt joint, which is what could unscrew.

Nice cotter pin bends, also.

Dave
 
I would use a longer bolt on that pushrod or go to a thinner washer on the head side. You need more threads than that showing on a nylon locknut. You don't want that pushrod coming loose and flopping around in there!

Safety wire looks fine.
 
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Thanks everyone. I'll take another look at the bolt. Everything is as supplied, but I guess that doesn't always make it right.
 
Brantel said:
I would use a longer bolt on that pushrod or go to a thinner washer on the head side. You need more threads than that showing on a nylon locknut. You don't want that pushrod coming loose and flopping around in there!

Safety wire looks fine.
Click to expand...

What's the 'rule of thumb'? two threads showing...if I remember right. It looks like you might have that?
 
Torque Seal and Threads

In contrast to a previous post, torque seal should not go on the threads. Place it across a cotter key (if applicable), the nut, the washer, then onto a fixed surface.

See the EAA video Hints for Homebuilders at

http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=29739769001

I think the only time it should be used on a thread is with a "B" nut, where when you remove the nut it pulls away from the torque seal and doesn't go over it. Someone with more experience chime in here...

Don
 
Ron..I believe you are correct, two threads and I just barely get that with this bolt. I may do as Brian suggests and use a light washer at the bolt head to get another turn. The"goop" (torque seal) was still wet when I decided to work on one more thing. It got spread a little but I can still see continuity, so I left it as-is.

I guess I don't understand in this case where else the torque seal can be applied. This is a unique set of hardware and I thought from the inspection panel vantage point, it would be most evident where applied if there was loosening of the nut.

Open to more thoughts and learning from them.

Thanks,
 
The thing with the threads showing is intended to get the locking insert in the nut to the point where the threads are fully-developed and no longer have the lead-in taper that some have; also to fully engage the insert.

Once those conditions are met it's good.

Dave
 
Again...thanks for the feedback everyone.

BTW, this video helped get me started: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwFjUX6SaY8&feature=related

Didn't even know the wire should change direction of twist to keep it from lifting off of the bolt head before watching this. My cheapo safety wire pliers only twist one direction, so I thought that's just how it goes. Wrong!

Now to figure out the best way to secure wiring in that area with a service loop and no chance of it getting loose.
 
AC43.13-1B, Ch 7-64

f. Fiber or nylon locknuts are constructed
with an unthreaded fiber or nylon
locking insert held securely in place. The fiber
or nylon insert provides the locking action because
it has a smaller diameter than the nut.
Fiber or nylon self-locking nuts are not installed
in areas where temperatures exceed
250 ?F. After the nut has been tightened, make
sure the bolt or stud has at least one thread
showing past the nut. DO NOT reuse a fiber
or nylon locknut, if the nut cannot meet the
minimum prevailing torque values.

Feel better now Sean?
 
Really nice Sean. On 2 flights while @ low cruise my MAP kept floating between 21.2 & 22.5 inches. Thought it was sensor anomaly but today I found my magnetic alternate air door was "floating". So I installed a way stouter magnet sandwiched in there. Pretty sure that will do it. At least if it doesn't I know I'll see it on the EFIS. So, EFIS good, magnet door bad. Typical off-plans SNAFU. Do you need those Tru-Trak servo harnesses?
 
I went with Dynon, so don't need the TruTrak Harnesses. I have a local friend that could sure use them, though. PM me and let me know the details.

Thanks,
 
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