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DragonflyAero

Well Known Member
How much wire should I leave at the wing root to allow for connections in the cabin? I am planning a continuous run to the Vertical Power unit, which I assume should be located between the panel and firewall.

Thanks!

Bill Vinson
RV-7 Standard Build
 
I agree. Wire is fairly cheap. Wire stretchers aren't. I like to put a connector at the wing root, because one day you will wish you had, but a continuous wire is less likely to have a problem.
 
Connector

You'll definitely want a connector at the wing root. This greatly simplifies the wire runs and simplifies the wing attachment. If you have to later remove the wing you'll be hating life when you have to cut the wire and then add a connector.

If you still want to do it one run, make a service loop between the fuse and wing.

I also have a connector at the wing tips. The Landing, strobe and position lights are locally grounded to further simplify the wiring. No noise issues at all.
 
Connector at wing root

Thanks for the information. If I were to install connectors at the wing root, where would they best be located and what type connector?
 
I used spade connectors from stein.

And blocks 6 type with spades.

Glad I did. Makes life too simple.

Look at stein and B&C.
 
Connectors and holding them down

How do you hold down a connector? I'm just starting to wire my RV7A. If I use a Molex connector on the wing lights and put a connector what is a good way to secure the connector so it is tied down to the frame? The D-subs have a way to attach them to airframe, but how do you attach plastic molex connectors? Or should I bag using Molex and do everything with D-subs? Can D-subs do 18 or 20 gauge? I do see the black round military connectors that can be attached to frame but they are really expensive. And if possible could you post photo of the wing connectors being used?

thanks for wiring / connector ideas.

Much appreciated
 
I'm just using Adel clamps close to the connector. I'm using Universal Mate-n-Lok connectors on mine. I'm not going to worry about securing the connectors themselves where it's not convenient to do so. In some places I'll be able to nibble out a rectangular hole and snap one side into the sheet metal.

Amazing how many permutations there are of those stupid pins, and even plastic shell materials. I know more about TE connectors now than I ever hoped to. For what it's worth, I went with the more flame-resistant plastic and phosphor bronze pins rather than brass.
 
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