gmcjetpilot
Well Known Member
Wondering if there is a better way or alternative, and what others have done.
PER PLANS: The intersection fairing is metal strip (and rubber seal) that wraps around the inboard wing, over top of wing (wing walk area), around the leading edge (wing tank). A second short piece is on bottom wing skin (and rib) like on top, Both top and bottom wing skin/rib attach use the same nut plate & screw call out, which is where I want to deviate from the plans.
The wing skin areas top and bottom, per plans call for using a K1000 nut plates, and AN509 now MS24294 dash 8 screws. The nut plates are attached with typical -3 rivets drilled through both skin and rib and machined counter sunk in skin (as I read plans). OK. The small gripe is the #8 screw head countersink depth is 0.069". Since the skin and ribs are already together at this point (can't dimple), so you have to MACHINE COUNTRSINK. Skin is 0.032. Rib is 0.040" I think. So the hole in skin is beyond knife edge and rib knife edged on the bottom. On the top you have wing walk doubler which will be knife edged not rib. The metal strip (intersection fairing) is dimpled. OK. BTW the fuel tank has skin extending past the rib, so skin is dimpled and K1100 (dimpled or recessed) nut plates are used. That is fine for tank area.
Disclaimer I am not suggesting anyone deviate from plans, just asking for your critique opinion or other ideas. After overthinking Van's baseline for attaching the intersection fairing strip, I think it is fine. However FEEL FREE to opine on your alternative ideas, what you did and how it worked out, and also do you think the above alternative method will work. ALSO are there any other tips and tricks for installing this strip intersection fairing.
PS: Do they make reduced head 3/32 rivets for mounting nut plates, with less countersink depth? If yes where to buy? In the past I have shaved them if they were proud.
PER PLANS: The intersection fairing is metal strip (and rubber seal) that wraps around the inboard wing, over top of wing (wing walk area), around the leading edge (wing tank). A second short piece is on bottom wing skin (and rib) like on top, Both top and bottom wing skin/rib attach use the same nut plate & screw call out, which is where I want to deviate from the plans.
The wing skin areas top and bottom, per plans call for using a K1000 nut plates, and AN509 now MS24294 dash 8 screws. The nut plates are attached with typical -3 rivets drilled through both skin and rib and machined counter sunk in skin (as I read plans). OK. The small gripe is the #8 screw head countersink depth is 0.069". Since the skin and ribs are already together at this point (can't dimple), so you have to MACHINE COUNTRSINK. Skin is 0.032. Rib is 0.040" I think. So the hole in skin is beyond knife edge and rib knife edged on the bottom. On the top you have wing walk doubler which will be knife edged not rib. The metal strip (intersection fairing) is dimpled. OK. BTW the fuel tank has skin extending past the rib, so skin is dimpled and K1100 (dimpled or recessed) nut plates are used. That is fine for tank area.
Alternative plan drill the wing skins and rib (and wing walk doubler) up to #8 (in designated locations) and dimple skin and rib (and wing walk on top) separate, then assemble. When time to fit metal strip (intersection fairing) after wing is located and mounted to fuselage, finish installation by drilling and dimpling holes in strip intersection fairing. A hole finder or template can be used. The nut plates can be attached to RIB ONLY, so the 3/32 rivets will be hidden by skin (or rivets can go through both skin and rib (and wink walk doubler), in the unlikely event nut plate replacement is needed easier).
Disclaimer I am not suggesting anyone deviate from plans, just asking for your critique opinion or other ideas. After overthinking Van's baseline for attaching the intersection fairing strip, I think it is fine. However FEEL FREE to opine on your alternative ideas, what you did and how it worked out, and also do you think the above alternative method will work. ALSO are there any other tips and tricks for installing this strip intersection fairing.
PS: Do they make reduced head 3/32 rivets for mounting nut plates, with less countersink depth? If yes where to buy? In the past I have shaved them if they were proud.