H

HighSchoolBuilders

Well Known Member
Hi All,

I am starting my wing soon. The manual call for the construction of wing stand, I had a look at a few builders' log and found out there are variation of designs from the manual.

First thing is, the manual called for building the stand from ground to ceiling. However, I read others have their stand on wheels, I wonder if it is necessary to bolt the stand into the ground/ceiling? I can see the advantage of mobility and storage with the stand is on wheels, seems like a good idea, but is there a downside to that idea?

Also, some build a double wing stand with two wings going parallel, 3 feet apart to each other. Would anyone suggest to go thru the extra effort to do so? Would there be a HUGE advantage to do so if I can spare the space?

Lastly, can anyone recall one of the major hurdles when you were building your slow build wing, that if you're to start the process again, how would you tackle it instead?

Many thanks!
Hank
 
Good morning Hank,
It sounds as though you might be confusing the wing stand with the wing jig. The "rolling" stand is for storing the wings after build. The jig, which should be securely installed, is to assure that the wings are build straight and without twist.
I installed 2 jigs approximately 5' apart and built both wings at the same time. I would still do the same today. It is MUCH easier to build both wings concurrently.
 
Jig not required

HighSchoolBuilders said:
First thing is, the manual called for building the stand from ground to ceiling. However, I read others have their stand on wheels, I wonder if it is necessary to bolt the stand into the ground/ceiling? I can see the advantage of mobility and storage with the stand is on wheels, seems like a good idea, but is there a downside to that idea?

Also, some build a double wing stand with two wings going parallel, 3 feet apart to each other. Would anyone suggest to go thru the extra effort to do so? Would there be a HUGE advantage to do so if I can spare the space?
Click to expand...

I'm building an RV-7 but as I understand it the 7 uses the 8 wing with some minor modifications. Here is a quote from my RV-7 manual:

"Although the matched-hole process eliminates the need for the traditional wing jig, mounting the wing in a stand will make it easier to build"

If I recall correctly Dana Overall built his 7 wing on a table with no stand. My buddy Bruce built his RV-9 without a stand or jig (in a one car garage) and I've flown it and it flies fantastic (great job Bruce).

Here is the wing stand my wife and I built (mostly my wife) with the princess trying to escape:)
 
Hi Hank,
Another guy in agreement with Mel. I built both my RV-8 wings at the same time with a stationary jig that was attached to the floor and ceiling. I then fabricated a wing craddle with locking castors for wing storage. When building the wings...once you get set up for doing a step...it seems more efficient to me to do both at the same time.
You can see the set up and wing craddle on my site link below. Good luck
 
I built 2 stands on casters so I could move them around to get them out of the way. No need for the jig with prepunched wings.

A friend built his second RV without match drilling. He simply drilled the holes without clecoing the parts together. All the holes lined up. That's why you don't need a jig.
 
Keep it simple. You can really over-engineer the thing. Just make sure the inboard and outboard ends of the spar are level. Once you cleco things up it will be pretty straight and hard to "twist".

As far as doing things differently, I don't think I would, but just try to do both wings at the same time. You want the up-side in.

Make sure you label EVERYTHING LH or RH UP or DOWN. It is really easy to read the print looking one way and then get confused when you look at the wings.
 
Sounds good guys! Will attack both wings at the same time, thanks!

While on the wing subject, I was just about to start countersinking the nutplate attachment holes. This might be a stupid question, but are those undersized holes and need to drill to final size?

Also, reading thru other's build log, they all have perfect countersinks! Someone told me once I set the micro countersink and lock it, they will all come out perfect. Well.... there are two things I don't seems doing it right.

1) If I push a bit harder or lighter on the drill, the countersink result will be deeper or shallower, is there a trick to this so that once I set it, no matter how hard I push I will still get the same result?

2) the micro countersink is very easy to lean off to one side and end up with an variable depth (part of the countersink deep and part shallow). Again, is there a trick to this because it seems like I can't perfectly countersink straight down and end up with an oval shape result.

Perhaps I just haven't master it yet, but would be nice to know if there is a trick to countersinking.

Thanks and happy building!
Hank
 
Just a bit ahead of you

Hank, you can look at my blog and see the wing stand I built about a month ago. I thought it was important to build both wings at once as well as have easy acces between the wings, so I made sure there were no cross members blocking my access. Also, I used wood from the crating materials which is an idea I got off other sites.

Also, I would orient the wings so that your bench and or tools supply was on either end of the wing jigs, vs in the middle on one side. If that make sense. You will find your self walking back and fourth to the tools/bench often, and if you can help it will save lots of time if you don't have to walk around a wing like I do. ;-)

Regarding the countersink, I think it is just a learned skill and does take a while. I noticed that once your countersink is broken in, the spring is softer and it is easier to tell if it bottoms out. Just try to use the same amount of time and pressure for each countersink and you should be fine.

http://www.704ch.com/
 
Keep the hole centered

HighSchoolBuilders said:
Perhaps I just haven't master it yet, but would be nice to know if there is a trick to countersinking.
Click to expand...

Hank,
Drill a hole in a thick piece of sheet metal and put it on the back side of the metal you are countersinking. This will keep the countersink centered making a nice countersunk hole.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dtaylor&project=663&category=4402&log=70947&row=7

If you look closely in the link above you will see a piece of metal clecoed on with cleco side grips. I first drilled holes in the thick piece where the nutplates are riveted on using a nutplate as a template. I then put regular clecoes in the hole on the spar to get the thick piece in the right place and then put the cleco side grips. I then removed the regular clecoes and countersunk. I made 3 templates since the nutplates go on in 3 different orientation. I hope that makes sense to you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.