rlricks

Member
This is a request I sent for info: "I finally got my wings installed but I'm afraid I'm going to break something. I used a come-along with ropes attached to the hand holes.
It depressed the wing skins at the ends but fortunately when the pressure was relieved the skins straightened. Any suggestions as to what is making the install so difficult and what I might do to correct it?



I have watched the video of the yellow 12 and at Sun n fun 2010 saw the wing removed and reinstalled with no difficulty.



Thanks"

This is the response I got: "Once the weatherstripping goes on, it does get a bit tighter. But still, I was able to get the wings on and off without large blunt tools, and the company airplane is easier yet -- pins just slip in and out. "

This is my response to that: "A lot of help you are"
 
This is a request I sent for info: "I finally got my wings installed but I'm afraid I'm going to break something. I used a come-along with ropes attached to the hand holes.
It depressed the wing skins at the ends but fortunately when the pressure was relieved the skins straightened. Any suggestions as to what is making the install so difficult and what I might do to correct it?
I have watched the video of the yellow 12 and at Sun n fun 2010 saw the wing removed and reinstalled with no difficulty.

"

Hi Rlricks,

The first question is did your wings fit easy before you installed the fine large rubber strip supplied by Van's? We have not yet had one that did not here, 6 flying, so my guess is that your would work just fine with out the rubber strip.

The method you describe to install your wings will do damage please, for your sake do not do it again.

The problem is that Van's forgot to tell you that you have to trim the inner wing skins so that you have at least 1/8" clearance so that the rubber strip can be compressed enough to allow easy wing installation. Easy here is a relative term. It would be easier than what you have done as described above yet it may still take two men and a boy to get the wings on. We tried on my first RV-12 and gave up on the rubber strip to save the airframe before Sun-N-Fun 2010. At Sun-N-Fun I had a nice long talk with Van himself at the aircraft and he was concerned that we were flying it without the rubber strip and I explained that it just would not fit, then he related the need to trim the iner wing skins so that it would fit, I pointed out that we had just paid a large sum to have the aircraft painted and that we were not going to ruin the paint on the wings trying to trim the metal. We later came up with the next solution.

The material I used was from Home Depot, it is the MD brand, High Density Foam Tape Weatherstrip, the size is 3/16" thick x 3/8" wide x 17' long. I used the white color and it comes with two rolls in the package which is plenty to do both sides of the plane. The aircraft is hangared and I see no indication of any change in the material after 14 months so it would seem to hold up well and at about $ 2 per package it is cheap to replace.

I start with the wings on and run a 1/8" masking tape line around the wing root even with the wing skin on the fuselage. I then remove the wings and place a second 1/8" tape line outside and against the first tape line. Then remove the first masking tape line and place the foam tape to match the inside of the second masking tape line. Remove the second masking tape line and replace the wings and let sit for 24 hours or so, so that the foam tape will have some clamping pressure to keep it in place while the tape bond develops.

I might add that my wings fit with only 1/8" or less gap between the wing and the fuselage if your gap is wider by much you may need thicker foam tape and it is available.

Good luck, hope this helps.

Best regards,
Vern
 
The problem is that Van's forgot to tell you that you have to trim the inner wing skins so that you have at least 1/8" clearance so that the rubber strip can be compressed enough to allow easy wing installation.

The last revision of page 30-03 includes trimming the root (step 4):

30-03.pdf
 
The most important thing you can do here is to follow the instructions (noted above) and trim the wing skins so that you have a uniform 1/8" gap all the way around. This will take some time to do carefully, but it is not difficult. Make sure you deburr and smooth the edges when you are done.

Then, getting those pins in is still not a piece of cake, but it is doable. Various methods have been used, and a search will give you some ideas. Marty Santic came up with a way to do it by drawing the spars togetehr inside the fuselage. John Bender and I came up with tapered pin approaches that help a lot with aligning the holes. It is for sure a two man job no matter which way you go. It gets easier every t ime you do it. Have patience and don't force the issure.

I really dislike the idea of using straps arpund the wingtips, but I guess it has worked for some. I agree with Vern on this issue - I'm concerned about applying stresses to the wings in a manner they were not designed for.
 
Pipe Expander

I bought my Pipe Expander at Harbor Freight. It is the small size with a part number of P37352. It expands from 1.15 to 1.7 inches which is good for the 1.5" spar pins. It would be better if its working length were more than the 2", but you can't expect everything for $9.99.
Joe
 
We delayed installing the seal strips until after painting the plane, then I forgot all about them. I've got 50 hours on the plane with no seal strips, and no CO has been detected. Thanks to the post from Gagarin737, today I'm going over to look for the parts and review 33.04 to see how they install.

I install the spar pins with a small rubber mallet. Have a helper out at the wingtip jiggle the wing around while you tap on the pin. After the wings have been on and off a dozen times, it becomes as easy as in the Van's video.

Your next problem will be getting the pins out again, I'll try to post a photo of my spar pin removal tool.
 
Borrow the glider trick. Every time they install their wings, they run half inch white 3M plastic tape around the root. There is considerable drag involved in this area which is eliminated by doing so. Bob Kibby (RV12 builder and serious glider pilot) convinced me. It works!

Pete
 
I ordered gap seal tape from Cumulus Soaring, they sell a white tape that is supposed to have enough stretch to go around the curves without being distorted.


Here is my spar pin removal system, it works great:

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