UPDATE - 99% Good as New
Since I originally posted here about what I believed to be an impossible task, the support received here both public and private has helped me get over this latest of many hurdles. I have successfully restored my bent leading edge to almost like new status (except for riveting). Here are the basic steps I followed;
1. Removed all of the AN426AD3-3.5 rivets from the top and bottom skin to damaged rib using a #40 drill bit mounted in a rechargeable drill. I felt I had better control with this drill as the variable trigger allowed the bit to turn much slower, making it easier to start and maintain center of the rivet being drilled out. The trigger on my air drill is a bit more unforgiving here.
2. Once all of the skin rivets were removed, I carefully pulled the rib outboard to expose the shop heads of the rib to spar web.
3. I used a Dremel tool with a grinding/cutoff wheel to remove the shop heads, using the rib flange as protection for the spar web.
4. After the shop heads were removed, I used a punch to locate the center of each rivet to prepare each rivet for drilling.
5. Using a #40 drill bit to drill out the center of each rivet, I drilled just deep enough to get a #40 punch into the hole. For the top and bottom rivet shop heads, I used a angle drill attachment I borrowed from a fellow builder. This is an amazing tool that I will be adding to my tool box as I am sure I will need one again.
6. Using the punch and a rubber mallet, I tapped the drilled universal rivets out of the rib. I was surprised to see no damage to the hole. I must admit this was my biggest mental block of the effort. FUD (Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt) factor. Big confidence builder see this work out.
7. Turning my attention to the bent leading edge, I managed to hand-massage out about 60% of the bent skin. The creases (not sharp bends) proved to be rather stubborn.
Here is a test fit of the replacement rib.
8. Taking a clue from one of the many suggestions, I fabricated a leading edge form from the scrap MDF left over from building the wing cradle. I sanded it down to match the replacement rib LE shape and shortened it to allow a bottle jack to fit between the form and the wing spar.
9. I placed the bottle jack on the 2x4 block to spread the load on the spar web. But the jack would not move when actuated. So, I resorted to plan b, I used an old scissor jack to force the LE form into the skin leading edge. I found that if you are not aligned with the cord line of the wing, the LE form will cause the skin to oil can. This may have been caused by the fact the landing light cut out reduced the strength of the LE. Not totally sure, maybe one of the engineers or AP guys/gals on the VAF can help shed some light on this.
10. Applied pressure to the LE with the form and scissor jack to the point where I felt the shape was close to matching the form.
11. Using a plastic 1.5lb deadblow hammer, I lightly tapped the skin to get the shape back.
12. Removed the LE form and jack. Worked the skin a little more by hand. I kept this up until the rib fit and the skin to rib holes lined up.
Whew!
After all of this, I still have a slight crease and a ?pimple? on the bottom skin near the LE where the damaged rib dug into the skin. The pimple is about the size of a pencil lead and the crease is about 1/32 high by about 1 to 2 inches long. Not sure how to get these out/repaired or leave them alone.
Any suggestions?
Once again, thanks to all who have replied. This is one of the many reasons why I chose to build an RV. The support group and the collective knowledge/experience is just simply amazing.
Keep sharing, we all benefit from each and every one.