dweyant

Well Known Member
This is probably a dumb question, but I can't find anything about this so...

I'm working on my wings, and I've just finished match drilling the ribs to the spars. I have them mounted in the Rudi style wing stands.

The instructions say do the normal debur/primer routing, put the, back together, and then rivet.

After that they have you rivet them the star working on the skins.

It seems like it would be a lot simpler to put the skins on now to do the match drilling so I can dimple the ribs before they are riveted to the spars. Does that make sense or am I missing something ?

Thanks,

-Dan
 
It seems like it would be a lot simpler to put the skins on now to do the match drilling so I can dimple the ribs before they are riveted to the spars. Does that make sense or am I missing something ?

Thanks,

-Dan


Follow instructions Dan. Ribs have to be prepped, fluted and riveted then skins will match. It's very easy to dimple ribs already on spars.
 
I am right in front of you in the build. Briefly had the same thought, but as in the rest of the build to this point, pieces need to be match drilled before being dimpled. If not, the holes in the skin and the holes in the ribs will not be flush against each other for match drilling. The hand squeezer needs to be used on the ribs either way, so it's not any harder to do while its on the stand.


Also for what it's worth, I found it easer to rivet the ribs to spar while the assembly lay flat, rather than while it's hanging on the stand.

Chris
 
Dimpling the ribs after they have been riveted to the spar is indeed slightly more difficult. It is really only one evenings work though, even at that. (Couple hours maybe). Follow the plans.
 
My sequence

I have just about everything cleco'ed together ready to rivet. My thinking is why rivet until you have to. I have found that the lower wing skins will fit over the flap hinge. The hinges were riveted on the bench. Way easier. The leading edge is riveted less the inboard rib. The leading edge assembly is cleco'ed to the spar. I just finished sealing the tank and it is ready to close. Once I get the tank/outboard leading edge joint done, then I will rivet the skeleton together on the bench. I will do the ribs to the main spar first, slightly bending the tabs so I don't have to use a curved set with it's associated risk. I also have the inboard rib dimpled and ready for #8 nutplates (fairing attach). When I am ready to nail everything together, I'll pull my son out of (home) school. The work goes really fast after a 10 minute "tune up". We don't need to talk much about the work, unless something is wrong. I haven't figured out everything so the bottom wing skins can go on, but I am working in that direction before I start "final assembly".
The advantage of putting it off is I don't have to undo anything that I have done. (exept clecos) I also can noodle on it for a few days to figure the easiest sequence. The risk is not having the cleco's holding parts or assemblies in tight for drilling other items in assembly. That risk can be managed.
 
Others can chime in, but if you've still got the main ribs off the spar, go ahead and rivet on those three final nutplates on the inboard main spar web that the inboard fuel tank attach bracket goes on. Blind bucking those nutplates on in-between the main ribs is a PAIN. I just did it last night and was muttering all the way.