MarkW

MarkW

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As long as I have been visiting this site during my build I don't remember seeing this discussed or asked.
Should there be a gap between the canopy and windscreen on a slider? It seems like the tighter the better but I started thinking about the rub. I would not want it to fracture the Plexiglass. However it may be worse to have a small gap only to hit at a single point during vibration or fuse flex.
Any thoughts? I do not remember seeing this in the instructions anywhere.
 
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MarkW said:
As long as I have been visiting this site during my build I don't remember seeing this discussed or asked.
Should there be a gap between the canopy and windscreen on a slider? It seems like the tighter the better but I started thinking about the rub. I would not want it to fracture the Plexiglass. However it may be worse to have a small gap only to hit at a single point during vibration or fuse flex.
Any thoughts? I do not remember seeing this in the instructions anywhere.
Click to expand...

Build manual calls for a small gap, around 1/16" if I recall. There is a fiberglass overlay on the windshield that touch the slider portion and make a somewhat-sorta seal there. You really don't want those parts in hard contact, you'll break the plexi at some point due to vibration, turbulence, or temperature differences. Quite a few builders have come up with some sort of "soft seal" there to get a better closure blocking wind and rain, like a strip of adhesive-backed foam or surgical tubing that gets compressed between the windshield and slider when you close it.
 
I've flown a few different RV sliders, and the wider the gap the more wind noise. One of them had some sort of rubber seal between the two, and it was absolutely the quietest. I don't remember how it was fashioned though.
 
Greg,
I triple checked the build manual and the plans for a dimension at this gap and found none.
Can you refer me to where it says there is to be a 1/16" gap.
I would prefer to have the canopy pulled tight to the windscreen if it does not do damage to the Plaxiglass. Otherwise you would be pulling the canopy tight against what? The rollers against the rollbar? Rear pins agains the plastic blocks?
 
When I replaced the windscreen on the -8 I spent a lot of time sanding and polishing the edge to get a perfect 1/16 gap all the way around. I then used the 1/4 inch sticky back foam weatherstrip (Home Depot Aviation Department) to seal it up. My windscreen was also 1/4 inch thick, so the seal stuck nicely to the edge and has remained in place for several years.

In any case, you do not want direct contact. Vibration, temperature expansion and simply slamming it shut is begging for a crack (especially in the cold).
 
gap

I formed a 1 inch fiberglass fairing over the front of the slider to aid in closing and sealing then laid up windscreen fairing for a better fit and no chance of chipping front slider plex. I used dynel cloth as final bid as its very scuff resistant.
Bob
 
Same as on the forward top skin

I called Vans a few months back because I couldn't find it either and I don't remember who I talked to but they said its the same as the gap you can have on your forward top skin which I believe is up to 3/8. The directions are just worded poorly that it covers the entire front section. I was trying to get it even all the way around and he laughed at me and said its going to be covered up, just make sure you seal it.

Nick
 
Follow up

As a follow up to my original question.
I emailed Van's and was told.
1/16" to 1/8" gap. Use the latch to pull the rear pins tight against the rear blocks.
 
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