blueflyer

Well Known Member
Can anyone help with these 3 questions:
1) Will the part number AN4022-1 in the picture below fit the threads in the primer port on a Lycoming engine?
2) Would the AN4022-1 be a good thing to use as a primer nozzle?
3) What size are the AN threads on the other side of the AN4022-1?

 
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Can anyone help with these 3 questions:
1) Will the part number AN4022-1 in the picture below fit the threads in the primer port on a Lycoming engine?
2) Would the AN4022-1 be a good thing to use as a primer nozzle?
3) What size are the AN threads on the other side of the AN4022-1?


I used the AN800, AN805, and AN4022-1 on my O-320. I have three of them installed. Cylinder # 3 uses the primer port for the Manifold Pressure. The primer ports are 1/8" pipe thread.

I have only used the primer about 6 times over the past 15.5-years. It was 17 F at Tahoe one morning when I was departing. It typically does not get that cold in SoCAL that you need to use it.
 
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I have converted and have seen many others that have converted away from the copper line and the silver soldered ends due to the frequent breaking of the tip and splitting of the brass nuts. I personally prefer the aluminum AN for that application due to its ability to take the Intense heat cycles and the frequency of them along with the vibration. But I have also seen the tips break off from not having enough support to the lines upstream as well where they join the T fittings and along the lower mount points along the cylinders. I prefer and recommend the newer AN, I am sure others will also chime in and give their 2 cents as well.
 
Stainless Steel tubing, and AN800C cones nico-brazed should hold up for a very long time. Brass for the primer nozzles.
 
I have converted and have seen many others that have converted away from the copper line and the silver soldered ends due to the frequent breaking of the tip and splitting of the brass nuts. I personally prefer the aluminum AN for that application due to its ability to take the Intense heat cycles and the frequency of them along with the vibration. But I have also seen the tips break off from not having enough support to the lines upstream as well where they join the T fittings and along the lower mount points along the cylinders. I prefer and recommend the newer AN, I am sure others will also chime in and give their 2 cents as well.

My copper and solder fittings lasted over 12-years and 2,200 flight hours. Replaced everything when I replaced the cylinders. I used the same stuff only new because it held up very well at minimal cost.

Stainless Steel is used on the Lycoming Bendix fuel injection systems. If they are not supported correctly, they will break. I had a friend develop a crack in one of his stainless lines and fortunately he landed on an airport without incident.

Everything that is man made will break. It is just when.
 
I didn't think about the soldering. Rather than test my poor soldering skills on an item such as this, I think I will stick with the AN fitting. I appreciate the input.
 
I didn't think about the soldering. Rather than test my poor soldering skills on an item such as this, I think I will stick with the AN fitting. I appreciate the input.

You can buy the primer nozzles that will accept the 37 degree flared stainless line and pick up the T fittings, collars and and AN caps all pretty readily in stainless or aluminum. Just ensure good tight mounting, look at a Beech Musketeer or Piper Cherokee running a 320 and you will see how it is usually ran. The owner might comment on work that has had to be done on the lines over the years that may help you. It is pretty common on the older planes.
 
I have converted and have seen many others that have converted away from the copper line and the silver soldered ends due to the frequent breaking of the tip and splitting of the brass nuts. I personally prefer the aluminum AN for that application due to its ability to take the Intense heat cycles and the frequency of them along with the vibration. But I have also seen the tips break off from not having enough support to the lines upstream as well where they join the T fittings and along the lower mount points along the cylinders. I prefer and recommend the newer AN, I am sure others will also chime in and give their 2 cents as well.

+1 on this. I had cracked fittings where the brass tips had been soldered to the copper line. Switched to the aluminium fitting.