jls32

Member
I have a Cleaveland 3" yoke that is flexing on AD4 rivets leaving one side of the shop head 0.010" higher than the opposite edge. I can squeeze a second time with the squeezer rotated 180deg to "even" out the non-square rivet or I can buy a shorter yoke to eliminate the flexing.

What would be the more useful second yoke to have on a RV7 project: a 1" or 2"?
 
2" yoke

I have a Cleaveland 3" yoke that is flexing on AD4 rivets leaving one side of the shop head 0.010" higher than the opposite edge. I can squeeze a second time with the squeezer rotated 180deg to "even" out the non-square rivet or I can buy a shorter yoke to eliminate the flexing.

What would be the more useful second yoke to have on a RV7 project: a 1" or 2"?

2" is more useful. I always use the shallowest one possible.
Longeron yoke seems to squeeze better and has far more uses.
However, I prefer gun & bar so rarely use a pneumatic for #4 rivets.
 
I found found a 1" no-hole yoke useful for areas like nutplates along edges. Also weighs less than the 3". Mine are Avery brand, no longer available.
 
Squeeze everything

I use my pneumatic squeezer everywhere it will reach. I have three yokes but 90% of the time I use the longeron yoke.