Traditionally, you're supposed to put the shop heads on the thicker material to keep the thin material from deforming a bit when the rivet expands. On the VS and HS spar caps, is you put the shop heads on the spar cap side, they interfere a bit with the skin rivets. It's not a big deal. I have the technique down where you get the rivet started with the yoke just a bit off center...then the yoke clears enough that you can finish off the rivet and they turn out perfectly.
I'm wondering if anyone's asked Vans about this? If the manufactured heads were on the spar cap side, I think most of the interference would go away. Clearly, the manufactured heads for the hinge plates should go the other way around. With the added thickness of the hinge plates, I got into a situtation on the VS where I couldn't even buck the rivet. I had to partially buck it kinda' cockeyed, and then finish it off with the squeezer....it turned out fine but there's just no call for that![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
Short of grinding down the head on the thin-nosed no hole yoke, what have others done here?
I'm wondering if anyone's asked Vans about this? If the manufactured heads were on the spar cap side, I think most of the interference would go away. Clearly, the manufactured heads for the hinge plates should go the other way around. With the added thickness of the hinge plates, I got into a situtation on the VS where I couldn't even buck the rivet. I had to partially buck it kinda' cockeyed, and then finish it off with the squeezer....it turned out fine but there's just no call for that
Short of grinding down the head on the thin-nosed no hole yoke, what have others done here?