C

chris mitchell

Well Known Member
Patron
I'm now trying to understand which exhaust I should be getting with my firewall forward kit. The terminology and codes make me nervous about getting it wrong and I don't want to ship the wrong thing 6000 miles!

I have ordered a Superior I0-360 parallel valve 180 horsepower engine with a front induction aluminum (NOT composite) sump. Vans catalog and web site only refer to a composite sump for which there is a specific kit:

"IO-360 180 HP ENGINES WITH SUPERIOR COMPOSITE SUMPS
Purchasers of Superior's fuel injected 180 hp engines with the forward facing composite sumps should order one of the following exhaust systems depending on your aircraft model:
RV-8 only: EA EXH RV-8 SUPERIOR" .

However, I have been offered a "RV-8, crossover, IO-360M1B 180hp w/Muff
Part Number = EA EXH 8 IO-360M1B" for a very good price already here in England and it suddenly occurred to me that maybe it is this kit that I should get, as I won't have a composite sump...??!

If any body out there knows and understand these things please enlighten me. I have had enough trouble understanding that "forward" = "horizontal".

Thanks

Chris :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
I asked the same question a couple weeks ago, only for vert. ind.. No one had an answer. The best bet is to call Vetterman at: (605) 745-5932
 
Chris...
I have ordered a Superior I0-360 parallel valve 180 horsepower engine with a front induction aluminum (NOT composite) sump. Vans catalog and web site only refer to a composite sump for which there is a specific kit:
Click to expand...
The Aluminium sump, AFAIK, is the replacement for the Composite one - coming "shortly". Provided that is the case, then the "composite" exhaust is the one you would need...

We have the composite sump from Superior, and the "composite sump" exhaust from Vetterman via Van's. Fit's fine except for getting the sniffle valve in. This will be swapped, FOC by Superior / Jade, when the AL one is available, and there will be a lot of grief from many if it is not a direct 1 for 1 replacement :eek:

There are "solutions" to the Sniffle Valve issue for the composite sump, and with an AL sump, less relevant (more easily drilled / tapped / weleded etc.)

HTH?
Andy
 
Andy,

I spoke to Derek Graham and to Superior in Texas both advise that the new aluminum sump (we're on a US forum so I'm spelling it that way!!) is a direct replacement for the Ryton composite sump - as you say there will be a lot of disgruntled folk out there if its not a direct 1:1 replacement but needs a new exhaust system! Larry Vetterman thought it should be the M1B type of exhaust - I've e-mailed him to let hoim know what Superior said.

Cheers

Chris ;)
 
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O.K. Chris... I don't have a clue about the exhaust issue, but I'd be interested to hear where you end up with it... My question is on the word "aluminum." I gotta know. How would you spell it over there. I checked dictionary.com and wikipedia for the british spelling, but they were both as clueless as me. Please enlighten me.

Thanks,
Bill Settle
-8 Wings
 
Aluminium

Its an extra "i"

For British think Alu...Min...e..um

For American think Alooo...min...um



Other words have the "u" missing as well...such as "labour" and "colour".


Frank...Ex Pat Brit
 
The two things RV's are made of... aluminium and expensium. My old Luscombe has parts made of "unobtainium" therefore it sits in a shed. Speaking of exhausts tho, Aircraft Spruce has a Snowline Exhaust for a little cheaper than the vetterman and I would stear clear of it. Didn't fit AT ALL!! I do quite a bit of welding for a living, but still had a hard time getting it right. I have a fealing I'll be taking it off again after a few hours of flying to fix my lousy welds. :eek:
 
Next time

I'm going to make my own out of mild steel bends from a muffler shop...My buddy has $35 in his system...when it rots out make another one...But its still going after 10 years.

Frank 7a
 
Having lived in the US for over 10% of my life, plus having an American wife I spend my time being confused about spelling and dates - is today 6/20 or 20/6???, plus my kids are bilingual depending on which parent they are talking to.

But to return to the original topic, Larry Vetterman e-mailed me - he confirms that if the new Superior sump is indeed a direct replacement for the Ryton sump then still order the "RV-8 ONLY Composite Sump 180 HP w/Muff
Part Number = EA EXH RV-8 SUPERIOR
Price = $985.00" from Vans - he will be following this issue closely as he is keen to make sure no-one gets the wrong kit.

The sump used on other engines comes from AERO, is a different shape and would use the M1B setup, AFAIUI

He also mentions the about the sniffle valve issue that Andy alludes to - this is his suggestion: "Sniffle valve mounting seem to bug builders, however the clue is to remote mount it. It does not have to be screwed into the sump. Mine is located down by the A-frame on the 7A with a short piece of aluminum tubing back up to the sump. "

Chris
 
4-1 exhaust

I have an RV6 that just underwent an engine mount forward upgrade from an O320/Felix wood prop/crossover exhaust... to a Mattituck TMX IO-360 ~M1b (from Mahlon Russell), Lord mounts, Lightspeed on top, Superflite aluminum cold sump with sniffle valve, Silverhawk injection, modified RAM air intake from James Aircraft, fiberglass plenum top over Van's baffling kit, oil cooler mounted on the lower horizontal engine mount ejecting air down and out, more ramping and more exit air, 4-1 collector exhaust from Dave Koch with AWI, and a 3 bladed unlimited rpm aerobatic wood prop from Clark Lydick with Performance Props. Best guess is that the 2400 TBO engine is putting out about 195 hp without hopping up the cylinders.

I was cautioned along the way by friends who said not to get my hopes up for performance gains. Mine was a fairly fast RV6 with 540 hours on her. But here O320 was over TBO. Now after putting 29 hours on her with the new engine, she is proof that you can get more in all areas of performance that I care about while keeping her light...as designed by Van. Those areas I care about are power/acceleration, climb rates at different speeds, cruise speed, smoothness, consumption, aerobatic loading/handling and landing characteristics. My only unanticipated expense was for a new 3000'/min VSI. I was pegging the old one at 2000'/min. Driving a 1 mile square at 5000' at 2600 rpm on a warm day showed four GPS ground speeds between 199 and 217 mph.

Static rpm is 2400 and WOT is 2650. Total weight gain from the O320 was 24 lbs...and along with a couple instruments moved the CG forward 1/2" which was a good thing. Empty weight is 1054 lbs. While breaking her in, I have been keeping up with an RV7 with CS and 220 hp angle valve. His empty weight is 200 lbs more than my RV6.

While the exhaust was part of my overall package, I think a 4-1 is a better solution for any Van's taildragger with a cold sump and forward facing servo. All four pipes go down and out. It makes the engine very easy to work on and may even weight less than a crossover. Specators have said it sounds like a 172 on steriods...but quieter than the other RVs...a nicer overall sound. Inside...there is a throatier rumble... but it is also a new engine. I am 100% happy with the 4-1 that I got from Dave Koch with AWI. I put it under the stock Van's RV6 cowl that I had to modify. It also fits under the Sam James cowls. :)

Rick Smith
"Indy" RV6
Oxnard, CA
 
He also mentions the about the sniffle valve issue that Andy alludes to - this is his suggestion: "Sniffle valve mounting seem to bug builders, however the clue is to remote mount it. It does not have to be screwed into the sump. Mine is located down by the A-frame on the 7A with a short piece of aluminum tubing back up to the sump. "
Click to expand...
Our XP-IO-360 went back to UK Superior Agent for it's test run, and had the plastic swapped for the new Alloy Sump.

Van's Vetterman Exhaust: No issue - the Plastic Sump one works fine
Sniffle Valve: Solves issue... Air Intake part is further forward, hence Taildragger Sniffle location moves forward & now clears exhaust :)
Only issue: Air Intake tubes are replaced and pass closer to engine block. Wires / tubes etc. running between the 2 have less room and may require re-routing.
 
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