SHORTRV7

SHORTRV7

Well Known Member
I called Superior about a month ago and ask them when could I expect the new sump that is to replace my Ryton Sump. They told me it would not be long and they would be handing them out in the order of your purchase which seems fine...... But when, as I am starting to hang my engine and want to get it right the first time.. Has anyone else heard any news on this??? I will be calling again tomorrow..
 
I built my engine last October (06) with the Ryton sump, and they stored the engine there for me until I was ready to hang it. I had them send it to me this past August (07), and it came with the new sump.
 
How is it different??

Does it look like it will hold up in a backfire situation? How is it different?
Thanks,
Don/RV7 Mounting Engine
 
Here's a couple of pictures of the new sump. I was at an engine install this past weekend. The new sump is really nice! It should provide additional cool air since the induction is virtually separated from the oil sump.



 
I believe the majority of the difference are internal, with the added ability for a blow-out or by pass in the even of a backfire. I really didn't get to put the two side-by-side for comparison. If you call Superior and ask to speak with Pete Whitaker, he can tell you everything you'd need to know.

Superior main#: 800.277.5168
 
New sump changes

I fitted my new sump this week.

It wasn't as striaght forward as I first thought. I had 4 problems.

1) the exhaust covers the sump drains

2) the exhaust is too close to the snifal valve

3) the inlet pipe for no.1 cylinder now conflicts with the exhaust heater muff and pipe routing

4) The extra opening in the sump on the front left corner interferes with the mixture bracket

To solve the problems

1) I had to use the side drain at the left rear. As I plan on fitting a inverted oil system I asked Superior to check that a 810-S Tee would fit in this location. They tested it and found to do this you have to remove the manifold from the sump first then then fit it.

2) I used an An915 45 degree fitting to move the snifal valve away from the exhaust.

3) I had to reroute the heater pipe, it does fit through, but is quite tight compared to before.

4) The bracket I had to move up above the crankcase sump joint. It's higher than before and the angles aren't as good but with a bit of work I managed to get full travel in both directions.

I'll try to post some photo's showing all this

2386107200045502406UaeqTx_th.jpg



2305195490045502406xcUEKX_th.jpg


2667088590045502406tsatCw_th.jpg


Peter
 
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My conversations with Superior last June, they had the new sump cast but it would only fit the 7 and not the 7A.
They began shipping for the 7 only and expected the new casting for the 7A would be available in September. I've still not heard from them. Can't understand how it could get casted incorrectly. You just take the old cast and make it the same size. Right?

I had to replace mine due to a leak and replaced it with another ryton.
I've had no problems since I replaced it. I don't expect to expedite replacing the new one until I have too.
 
Dan

If you note the photo's of Rocky's they are a 7A so I'd suggest you talk to superior.
The new sump is much better and stronger although the penatly is it's 4 pounds heavier.

Peter
 
Big bosses?

In looking at those pictures, I see some rather large mounting bosses on the bottom of the case above the fuel injection unit. These bosses look unused and rather beafy. What are they for and how much weight do they add?

Bevan
RV7A no engine yet
 
kiwipete said:
Dan

If you note the photo's of Rocky's they are a 7A so I'd suggest you talk to superior.
The new sump is much better and stronger although the penatly is it's 4 pounds heavier.

Peter
Click to expand...

I will call Superior tomorrow.
I could use the weight up front as I'm using the catto 3 blade prop at only 18 lbs. I had considered placing more weight fwf but wanted to wait until the new sump was in place.
 
DanLandry said:
I will call Superior tomorrow.
I could use the weight up front as I'm using the catto 3 blade prop at only 18 lbs. I had considered placing more weight fwf but wanted to wait until the new sump was in place.
Click to expand...

Looks like they are starting to get inventory.
My sump with the ports for inverted oil system was shipped this week.
Apparently, this was the reason for the delay.
I should be receiving it Monday. Just in time for Christmas.
 
Bevan said:
In looking at those pictures, I see some rather large mounting bosses on the bottom of the case above the fuel injection unit. These bosses look unused and rather beafy. What are they for and how much weight do they add?

Bevan
RV7A no engine yet
Click to expand...

Alternator or generator mount.

All WIDEDECK crankcases have them. The NARROW DECK also know as the standard deck uses a bracket that bolts to the case using the same bolts that hold the case together.
 
Inverted oil

Dan

Do you have an inverted oil system? If you do you will have to remove the manifold from the sump and fit the oil pick-up on the hole at the side on the left rear of the sump as the vetterman ryton exhaust covers the bottom holes.

Cheers

Peter

Any problems feel free to email me :

[email protected]
 
My Superior IO360 is enroute and I just received my Vetterman exhaust last week. I've seen clearance issues with both a retrofit (old Ryton) on a 7 and a new install on a 7A. The exhaust on the 7A was very close to the sump, but hasn't been tweaked. On the 7 a 45 or elbow will be necessary for an oil drain. When I ordered my Vetterman exhaust I informed them that I had the new sump and Larry said it wouldn't be a problem. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I was offered a non-ported sump to speed engine delivery, which I accepted, but there was a delay in the pistons so the engine has the ported sump.
 
Rocky

I think a 45 degree fitting would still be close to the ryton style exhaust. You can fit a quick drain on the rear left side port. This may leave a little oil behind but I don't think that would really make any difference. When I wrote to Superior about these issues here was their reply regarding using a 45 degree adapter
"The only problem I have with this configuration is that when you add the quick drain onto the back of the adapter you will have an arm & moment that may cause the adapter to crack"
If you have any problems I dealt with Fred Marsden at Superior and he was helpful.

[email protected]

I did however use a 45 degree adapter to give the sniffle valve more clearence from the exhaust.

I think vetterman have changed their exhaust for the lastest sump so chances are you'll have no problems at all.

Peter
 
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Where's the New Superior Sump?

In my garage in a large box. Can look at it yet since I dont have a engine hoist.

FF Induction
LS II
FI
 
kiwipete said:
Dan

Do you have an inverted oil system? If you do you will have to remove the manifold from the sump and fit the oil pick-up on the hole at the side on the left rear of the sump as the vetterman ryton exhaust covers the bottom holes.

Cheers

Peter

Any problems feel free to email me :

[email protected]
Click to expand...

Peter, I don't have an inverted system.
Originally they were to send me the sump without the inverted ports.
I quess they shipped it to someone else. The first generation sump didn't accomodate, but the new sump was designed to accept it.
Hope all fits well without too many mods.

Did you have to change your throttle bracket or cable?
 
throttle bracket + cable

Dan

The throttle bracket + cable fit exactly at the same locations as per the ryton sump. The mixture bellcrank has to go above the sump/crankcase joint. But will still work ok.

Peter
 
Pete,
Thanks for the info on the 45 degree. Hopefully, I'll get my engine in next week and get a check of any clearance issues. I'll post some pictures. I'd be interested in seeing any cable brackets anyone has made/purchased using the precision fuel injection. I would like to eliminate the bellcrank on the mixture if at all possible. Maybe someone could comment on slop using the bellcrank. Do you get precise mixture control? It almost looked that with a modified mixture lever and a reverse mixture module from Precision that you could hook directly up to the arm. I only had a few minutes to look, so really have no idea of clearance issues etc. Any advice?
 
bellcrank

Just changed a RV7A over for a friend and the bellcrank fit just fine as before, below the sump, no adjustments ness. We had the earlier heatmuff (inlet and outlet the same) so it was ness to change over to the offset style now being sent from Vetterman and it worked ok as well. The sump seems to weigh about 2 lbs more and looks very nicely done. Larry
 
kiwipete said:
I fitted my new sump this week.

It wasn't as striaght forward as I first thought. I had 4 problems.

1) the exhaust covers the sump drains

2) the exhaust is too close to the snifal valve

3) the inlet pipe for no.1 cylinder now conflicts with the exhaust heater muff and pipe routing

4) The extra opening in the sump on the front left corner interferes with the mixture bracket

To solve the problems

1) I had to use the side drain at the left rear. As I plan on fitting a inverted oil system I asked Superior to check that a 810-S Tee would fit in this location. They tested it and found to do this you have to remove the manifold from the sump first then then fit it.

2) I used an An915 45 degree fitting to move the snifal valve away from the exhaust.

3) I had to reroute the heater pipe, it does fit through, but is quite tight compared to before.

4) The bracket I had to move up above the crankcase sump joint. It's higher than before and the angles aren't as good but with a bit of work I managed to get full travel in both directions.

I'll try to post some photo's showing all this

2386107200045502406UaeqTx_th.jpg



2305195490045502406xcUEKX_th.jpg


2667088590045502406tsatCw_th.jpg


Peter
Click to expand...


Hey Peter,
I've been installing my new sump the past few nights and have experienced the same problems with the quick drain and the cabin heat scat routing. I also used the side port for the quick drain.
I didn't have the issue with the sniffle valve as I had used the more forward position port on my previous setup.

Overall, it appears as Superior has produced a very nice replacement sump.

I'll be finishing up the setup in the morning and start up leak check.
I'll get some pictures posted. BTW, the sump weighs 4 lbs more than the ryton. This helps me as I am swinging the catto prop.
 
Larger pics please?

Hi Dan.

Do you think you can post the pics above in larger format?
I'm not able to open then in another (and bigger) window?

I've just replaced the sump myself and it's very interesting to see what other have done...

Thanks!
 
ao.frog said:
Hi Dan.

Do you think you can post the pics above in larger format?
I'm not able to open then in another (and bigger) window?

I've just replaced the sump myself and it's very interesting to see what other have done...

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Sorry, don't have any post installation pix other than the port over the exhaust.
Bottom line, I used the side port for the quick drain and removed the cabin heat muff. Living in Florida, I never used it. May revisit it if I find I need it in the future. I didn't have enough scat tube and with the tight fit, I couldn't make a clean turn to the inlet.
The throttle bracket was the same as before. The mixture cable was previously routed to the top bellcrank and it did not change.
The sniffle valve was connected to the same forward post as previously.





sump1.jpg

sump2.jpg

sump3.jpg

sump4.jpg
 
Superior XP-400 performance in a 7A

How many Superior 400 engines actually flying yet ? ?.
While Vans recomend a max of 200hp in the 7 , can anyone comment from experience what the 7A performs like using the XP400 220hp compared to the published 200hp performance ? ?
Does the XP400 actually produce the full 220hp as advertised ? ?.
Allen B
 
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