IronDawg

IronDawg

Member
I am finishing the empennage portion and about to take delivery of the fuselage. I was so eager to get this project underway and to learn the skills necessary that I haven't given a lot of thought to a few basics, such as holes in ribs for wiring, etc. Before I have to find alternative means to installing things which I should have prepared better for, is there some guidance you all can give of what I should be looking into?

Regards,
Jeff
 
Jeff,
While you've got a ways to go, it's good to begin thinking about things early.

Most important, LISTEN to a lot of builders (go to OSH &/or your local EAA chapter) and look at a LOT of Other RVs. Like anything you'll get both good & not-as-good advice/information. But as you listen/look, you'll decide which is valuable and what you really want.

Basics
  • Try to stay in the engineering "middle of the road". Non-standard stuff almost always costs more ($s and TIME to make it work). You'll have enough "Engineering adventures" anyway, don't make any more for yourself than necessary.
  • Get access to & read Bob Nuckolls book (google Aeroelectric Bob). Make sure you plan for expansion (lots of places to ground things and add fuses/breakers)

Panel:
  • Picking panel components and laying them out will take a LOT of time - and you'll change it as you build.
  • Start your design early - so you can think about how to route the wires thru your fuse/wings as you build (try to have multiple "paths" aft).
  • Try to defer the purchases as long as possible because features/prices change quickly. There are many business failures out there (a-la NARCO), so try to pick stuff that has a track record & will be around for a while.
  • Consider cutting a couple extra instrument holes so you can add stuff (both 2 1/4 & 3 1/8) without removing your panel to cut them later.
  • Plan your panel based on mission - but also plan for upgrades and maintainability; because you WILL upgrade/fix things
  • decide on your mission (IFR or VFR - even if you go VFR, PLAN so you can make IFR upgrades later w/out a MAJOR operation)
  • think about access (pulling radios, fixing a bad wire, getting access to harnesses)
  • Fuses/Breakers/Antennas - where & how you'll get to them for maintenance. Try to keep the number of items on a fuse/breakers to a minumum so a fuse failure doesn't affect too many items.
  • Think about your headset wires - and getting in/out of the cockpit
Engine:
  • Buy as much power as you can afford - never heard anyone say they wish they'd put a smaller engine in
  • If you buy new, understand when the warranty ends - as it may take a while between delivery and when you do the 1st engine start - TALK to other rv drivers about their engine builder experiences/recommendations!
  • Buy F.Injection if you can afford it - no ice and allows you to fly lean-of-peak with an engine monitor
  • Engine Monitor (almost a Must)
  • Ignition - shop Carefully - and Listen to other RV drivers
  • Prop - Shop & Talk to 8 drivers
 
That was a good post. I'll only add: Conduit is your friend. Plan for equipment you don't have and won't be putting in; you may change your mind or sell the aircraft to someone who wants to change things up. That means you should plan for wiring runs down the wing even if you are Day VFR, for example. You don't have to pre-wire, just put in the conduit and run a string down it so you can pull wire later if you need to. Some things I have seen installed after the fact (some me and some not): GPS antenna to thei wingtip, AOA tubing through the wing, autopilot under the seat pan and baggage floor, and ELT remote cable down the fuselage (had to be separate from the COMM antenna and power lines). Sparing use of conduit through critical, hard-to-reach areas won't add appreciably to the weight but will save you much swearing later.
 
Guys, thank your you taking the time to post these replies. I will certainly look into the book recommendation. Also, what is generally used for conduit?
 
One more tidbit.

Hi Jeff,
Remember to build the airplane from the inside out. I was given this good advice early on and it rearranges your thinking.

Put in the elevator autopilot servo bracket early. Add shoulder harness attach brackets and cables while the fuse is still open...etc.

Don't skin the top forward fuselage skin until just before first flight:)....you'll be amazed at how often you need access to that area and crawling under the dash is a pain.

Building the airplane from the outside-in will only frustrate you and add a bunch of build time.

Best,
 
Anybody ever make the top fwd fuse skin removeable to allow for post-build access? I have a instrument panel access cover just forward of the windshield on my Mooney M20C is it is *awesome* for accessing the radios etc, love it.

-- Don Gates
 
I know you're moving to your fuselage, but looking ahead, here's my 2 bits regarding wings:
- Be thinking about what lighting you want. Do you want landing lights? Will they be recessed in the leading edge? Or wingtip landing lights? LED, HID, or halogen? Research those early...there are tons of info on it here in the VAF.
- Wingtip nav/strobe lights? LED or incandescent? I went with AeroLEDs, but many options exist.
- Autopilot roll channel servo, which you WANT to install while the wing is open.
- Pitot tube. You can run tubing per the Vans plans, but if you plan to use an EFIS like Dynon Skyview, you're smart to install an aftermarket pitot boom and tube...your call. I bought the Dynon pitot tube/boom with angle-of-attack. Also consider whether you want it heated...that'll require wiring.
- For each of those, you must research the wiring requirement...length, gauge, etc. If it's a noisy component like a strobe, know ahead of time and use shielded wiring to keep the noise out of your headsets and radio.
- Wingtip: Do you want to install it with screws so it is removable? Or just rivet it on? The plans allow for both, but you'll need to purchase a wingtip screw and platenut set. I recommend this approach so that you can conduct follow-on maintenance on your wingtip lights.
- The Vans black conduit rocks. It's easy to install, very light.
- If you haven't done so, I'd go ahead and order the Stein Air master kit. It's got just about all the tools you'll need for electrical work.
- Ditto for the Vans wiring harness kit ( http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin...2-58-204&browse=electrical&product=wiring-kit )

Finally, if you PM me your email, tonight I'll send you Van's instrution sheet on best way/places for drilling wiring holes in wing ribs.
 
dgate80 said:
Anybody ever make the top fwd fuse skin removeable to allow for post-build access? I have a instrument panel access cover just forward of the windshield on my Mooney M20C is it is *awesome* for accessing the radios etc, love it.

-- Don Gates
Click to expand...
I deliberated very long and hard on this decision. I finally made the decision to install two access plates directly in front of the windshield. I have two openings that are aprox. 8 x 12 inches. I am very glad I did this. I have the AHRS and the Vertical Power power supply box between the firewall and the subpanel. Without the access plates I would have a horrible time trying to get to those units.

The one problem is making sure you can seal the access plates. During the storm at Sun n Fun water entered through the broken seals on my plates and got my power unit wet. It was not a good thing. After drying everything out with the help of Vertical Power, I was able to successfully power up my systems with no ill effects. Once I did all my repairs from the storm damage, I resealed with proseal and everything seems tight now. Other than a leaking seal I am very glad I did this.
 
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