Hi. Does anyone of you have the internal schematic of the Whelen Strobe Lights Power supply Model HDACF?
Thanks,
Ariel
RV8A
4X-OAA
Thanks,
Ariel
RV8A
4X-OAA
Agree completely. And the goods new is the changeover is easy. Hardest part is taking out some flooring to get at the power supply. So remove the power supply. There are five wires going out to the wingtip with the old Whelen nav/strobes. You only need 4 for the LEDs and that includes the sync wire. Splice the wires under the floor in the appropriate manner (it's not hard, after all, I did it). Your done, you don't even need to change any switches.Most of them are in the trash where this unit belongs. Switch to led![]()
Stop by I'll give you one, I have many laying around removed for LED replacement.Hi. Does anyone of you have the internal schematic of the Whelen Strobe Lights Power supply Model HDACF?
Thanks,
Ariel
RV8A
4X-OAA
Thanks Walt.Stop by I'll give you one, I have many laying around removed for LED replacement.
Good Morning Ariel.Thanks Walt.
I'm afraid it will be a little problem to "stop by", since I live in Israel....
Thanks again.
Ariel
flyleds.com

The most common failure is the (large) electrolytic storage capacitors. Particularly if the power supply has sat un-powered for a significant period (many weeks). They are easy to identify and test when you open the case. Replacements are widely available (e.g. DigiKey).Hi. Does anyone of you have the internal schematic of the Whelen Strobe Lights Power supply Model HDACF?
Thanks,
Ariel
RV8A
4X-OAA
Thank you!Good Morning Ariel.
It looks like flyled makes a module to match the footprint of that power supply:
Products – Flyleds
flyleds.com
It lets you switch over to their LED kit without having change very much at all.
That said, if the unit is non-functional at this point and you really want to fix it you may as well crack it open. The circuitry looks very straight forward so even without a schematic this should be easy to debug (says the person several thousand km’s away). This may be as simple as a diode from the power supply side having got cooked. Start by looking for obvious darkness on the PCB.
Good luck.
Thanks!The most common failure is the (large) electrolytic storage capacitors. Particularly if the power supply has sat un-powered for a significant period (many weeks). They are easy to identify and test when you open the case. Replacements are widely available (e.g. DigiKey).
There may also be a fuse inside the case. Start at the input connector and trace inwards to the power section and you may find (and test it).
If it’s neither of these, test the high voltage output (carefully! With an appropriate meter). If it’s up above 400v and your strobes won’t fire the failure is probably the power MosFET in the trigger section.
Hope this helps, unfortunately I was never able to find a published schematic or repair manual. Cheap (used) replacements are common on eBay.
Good luck.
Peter
Thank you Peter.The most common failure is the (large) electrolytic storage capacitors. Particularly if the power supply has sat un-powered for a significant period (many weeks). They are easy to identify and test when you open the case. Replacements are widely available (e.g. DigiKey).
There may also be a fuse inside the case. Start at the input connector and trace inwards to the power section and you may find (and test it).
If it’s neither of these, test the high voltage output (carefully! With an appropriate meter). If it’s up above 400v and your strobes won’t fire the failure is probably the power MosFET in the trigger section.
Hope this helps, unfortunately I was never able to find a published schematic or repair manual. Cheap (used) replacements are common on eBay.
Good luck.
Peter
Hi Ariel.Thank you!
It seems to be the same.
If I'll not be able to fix mine (Which more interesting me than buying a new one....), I'll buy theirs.
Ariel
Got it.Hi Ariel.
Just so you are clear on what this is. It is NOT a replacement for the whelen strobe power supply. Its a power supply for their LED strobe that drops into the same footprint as the whelen power supply. It’s meant to make it easier to swap over to LEDs.
Cheers.