Pat Hatch

Well Known Member
Advertiser
So I finally bit the bullet and sprang for the new Whelen wingtip/tail LED light kit sold by Mike Stewart. I got the one that goes under cover. Here's what I had before:



The most difficult part was pulling the old Whelen power supply out of its location in the baggage floor:



...and rewiring it thus:



I got rid of about 2 pounds by removing the old power supply. Not to mention the much greater current draw with the old system. I was able to use the original 3-conductor cabling from Whelen although Mike sells the new lightweight 4-conductor cable if you can pull your old wires out. For me it was just easier to use what was already there. I did have to change from the Whelen connectors to some 4-pin Molex connectors that I had on hand. Here's the old:





For the tail, I had to convert to the 4-pin Molex connector as well. This one worked well:



I also had to take a Dremel sanding drum and open up the hole just a little to accommodate the larger tail strobe/nav light. The old mounting screw holes matched up perfectly with the new unit:



On the wings I used a similar Molex 4-pin connector that I happened to have on hand:



Existing holes in the wing matched up perfectly with the new units as well. You can pretty much do the whole job in a day, but I split it up into several shorter sessions while waiting for the new lights to arrive. Here's everything put back together:



So last night I went for a trial flight at sunset and flew by my buddy Dave von Linsowe's house on a nearby airpark. He filmed my fly-by. I should have turned the wig-wag's off, but you can get the idea from the video (thanks, Dave!):

http://youtu.be/7jXyDBMNk-w

I'm very pleased with the upgrade; Mike Stewart makes it very painless (except for the cash I dropped). Yes, going LED is expensive, but I think it's worth every penny in the long run.
 
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Slick

Excellent explanation Pat. The workmanship was benchmark quality. Mike does a great job with his instructions also.
 
Great post Pat. Now about those high draw, high heat, blow prone quartz landing lights:p Got some drop in PAR 36 LED replacements right here for you. Thanks for your business!!
 
Very nice

I think this upgrade just moved up a few notches on my must have list.

I like the way you did the jumper block to replace the old power supply. Do you happen to have of schematic of the electrical connections or a picture of the jumper block that clearly shows the labels?
 
Great post Pat. Now about those high draw, high heat, blow prone quartz landing lights:p Got some drop in PAR 36 LED replacements right here for you. Thanks for your business!!

Yeah, Mike, I got my eye on those suckers.:) I'm waiting for your two-for-the-price-of-one sale!
 
I think this upgrade just moved up a few notches on my must have list.

I like the way you did the jumper block to replace the old power supply. Do you happen to have of schematic of the electrical connections or a picture of the jumper block that clearly shows the labels?

Rick,

Here's the schematic. Not sure how well it's going to show up as a .PNG file, but if you like, send me your email and I'll send you the file. It's an ExpressPCB file, if you happen to use that CAD program. Or I can send it to you as a PDF.



Here's a closer photo as well:



Click on the images and they will get quite large for you.

Also, let me add that the original Whelen cable is shielded. I don't think you really need shielded any more with LED lights, but it can't hurt so I went ahead and grounded the shields at the terminal block just for grins. Most people won't need to do that.
 
Mike, what's the pricing and how can we get them? I'd like to install these next week, I need to get rid of my old whelen strobe box
 
Thanks

Thanks Pat, I was able to print them at 125% and they look great.

Now all I have to do check my bank account and call Kahuna :D
 
Mike, what's the pricing and how can we get them? I'd like to install these next week, I need to get rid of my old whelen strobe box

Brian,
All of our products are available off the Products link off our web page. Link in my signature for lights as well. Holler if you have any questions.
 
I am considering putting LED nav/strobe lights on the wingtip, in place of "legacy" fittings, attached to the fibreglass attachment points for lighting on a pair of Johanson tip tanks that I have got.

Do the LED lights produce more heat than conventional lighting? (I am not talking here about landing/taxi lights, I'll have these in the leading edge). A large amount of heat would not be good adjacent to the fuel.
 
I am considering putting LED nav/strobe lights on the wingtip, in place of "legacy" fittings, attached to the fibreglass attachment points for lighting on a pair of Johanson tip tanks that I have got.

Do the LED lights produce more heat than conventional lighting? (I am not talking here about landing/taxi lights, I'll have these in the leading edge). A large amount of heat would not be good adjacent to the fuel.

First. I can only speak for the Whelen products. Their LED assemblies produce less heat than their older legacy friends. LED's do produce a little bit of heat but even after hours of operation they can be picked up and held in your hand so being mounted next to a fuel tank is no issue. In fact, if you were concerned about heat, Whelen LED's are your friend. These type of units are already used on Osborne Tip tanks and others, with great success. With the old style assemblies you actually were running high voltage strobe lines through the fuel tank areas and these are all low current low heat assemblies. This ONLY applies to the Whelen aviation products. Why?

Thermal control of LED assemblies is a matter of discipline and engineering design. MANY other led manufacturers, aviation and non-aviation alike, overdrive (exceed the LED manufacturers recommendation) the LED's and have thermal protection that cuts current at a heat range much higher than Whelen. Whelen must adhere to strict certification requirements, and of course warranty requirements.

Heat control in LED's is a big deal. Its the core of LED design. Its easy to overdrive an LED, produce lots of light, and in short order fry them. Im sure you have read the stories here of builders trying this or that LED thing, and it running a muck with blown assemblies, noisy coms, or other issues.

Its also pretty easy to produce lots of light for a few minutes to demonstrate a high candela/lumen rating, only to find that after say 10-15 minutes of operation, and the device becoming heat soaked, thermal circuitry has kicked in and lowered the light output by alot. The Whelen products are certified not only to the FAA certifications, but to SAE as well. Their ratings are based on light output after being on for 30 minutes, well up to temp, before taking thermal and candela/lumen readings.

What this means is that you can rest assured that the product will meet its candela rating, heat range, and strict safety requirements, with full use for years to come.

Holler if you have any questions on this.
 
ordered for my Lancair lighting overhaul project from Mike

I'm also going to try the Whelen landing lights out, I may use them as leading edge/ice lights if the beam spread is right