flickroll

Well Known Member
Would like some feedback on the best screw to use to attach the front half of the wheelpants to the rear half of the wheelpants. I've been thinking about using countersunk screws here, although they might look funny since they will be installed on an outside curve surface. The other alternative is a round head screw with a plastic washer. Or the countersunk screw with a home made small size Tinnerman washer (use a light stainless washer and dimple with a #6 screw dimpler). Would like something that looks good and also holds up to numerous remove/reinstall cycles during the life of the airplane, and also keeps the paint looking as good as possible. Thanks
 
I decided to go with truss head screws and a nylon washer under them. I felt like the countersink wasn't going to be as secure in the fiberglass. Probably really doesn't matter, but for my wheel pants, the material seemed too thin for countersunk.

greg
 
Yuo can actually buy the tinnermans for a #6. For the price, it seems somewhat silly to make one and it kind of depends on the look you're after. I used the #6 w/ tinnermans and they work fine.
 
Personal Preference?

....it kind of depends on the look you're after. I used the #6 w/ tinnermans and they work fine.
I used #6 screws on the wheel pants and like everywhere else, originally mated to tinnerman washers. After a few years I decided I really didn't need the tinnermans after all and removed them from the entire airframe. Like Jim, I kinda agree....it may depend upon the look you're after. YMMV.

2960vbc.jpg
 
Yuo can actually buy the tinnermans for a #6. For the price, it seems somewhat silly to make one and it kind of depends on the look you're after. I used the #6 w/ tinnermans and they work fine.

The home made variety are a much smaller diameter than the ones you get from Spruce. Each has it's place on the airplane. Also, a Tinnerman is not available (at least I can't find em) for a #4 screw. I am using a #4 screw on the inboard side of a Fairings Etc. Grove gear intersection fairing on my -8. Works and looks great.
 
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I used #6 screws on the wheel pants and like everywhere else, originally mated to tinnerman washers. After a few years I decided I really didn't need the tinnermans after all and removed them from the entire airframe. Like Jim, I kinda agree....it may depend upon the look you're after. YMMV.

Thanks for the pictures Rick. I do like the look of the countersunk and will go that route. Also probably better long term for the paint around the screw head area.
 
Mine all look like Rick's- the only place I used tinnermna's was on the four screws on the wheel pants that attach them to the gear leg bracket - just a little extra "structure" for the attachment point. Almost 1000 hours, and none of the bare countersunk screws have been an issue.
 
Mine all look like Rick's- the only place I used tinnermna's was on the four screws on the wheel pants that attach them to the gear leg bracket - just a little extra "structure" for the attachment point. Almost 1000 hours, and none of the bare countersunk screws have been an issue.

Thanks for the reply Paul. I was scratching my head on what to use there. Like you, was worried a little about having enough surface area around the screw head for holding power. In this area a Spruce Tinnerman would do the trick. Thanks...
 
Most of my operations are off a grass strip so I used tinnermans to hopefully hold everything together a little better. I used stainless steel screws and stainless steel tinnermans as I think they look better than the standard cad plated variety.

Fin
9A
 
#6

I used #6 and tinnermans on the joint between the wheel pant halves and #8's with tinnermans on the brackets.

#4 is too small in my opinion anywhere.

#6's with Tinnermans for the wing tips. I think they look good and definitely provide a little more bite.
 
I've owned 2 high-time -4's that spent most of their lives flying off unpaved strips of varying quality. The pants, especially, take a bit of abuse & I've had problems with keeping them tight; both planes' pants mounting holes have been enlarged by movement of the pants. I suspect that the new style pants will be even more vulnerable, since they are larger & ride lower.

I read an account somewhere of 'cutting in' the tinnerman slightly below the gelcoat surface & epoxying it into the structure, & covering the flat part, then using a countersink cutter to expose just the taper that the screw contacts. This seems like a lot of work, & I don't know if I'll have the energy left to do it when I get to that point. But it does seem like a good way to reinforce the holes, and it has the side benefit of hiding the washers.

Charlie