Use the fiberglass gear fairing
Question for the group im getting ready to install the gear leg fairings and would like to hear some opinions on using aluminum or fiberglass fairings. Which is better? Thanks
1) The Fiberglass is one piece and the original metal ones are two piece with a lap joint in the middle. The fiberglass ones look better of course with out the lap joint. This was done to let the metal flex; with out it you would kink the fairing in the middle. The fiberglass does not need it.
2) Weight wise, no difference, but before painting, the FG one is sim-translucent. Being able to see through it, might make installation easier.
3) The old metal fairing had a little more rounded leading edge and was not as wide. The fiberglass ones have a little wider chord, just as a guess. Wider chord means it will likely have lower drag. How much? The rule of thumb for min drag tear-drop or streamlined farings is a width/thickness ratio of approx 4 to 5.5 to 1 (about 25%-18% thickness to chord ratio). Basically its a symetiric airfoil. Going with a chord that's too wide, produces diminishing return, drag goes back up. Also if too wide, the gear fairing might affect the aerodynamic handling of the plane negatively, as they DO act as wings and can affect spin characteristics, for example.
4) Last but not least, if you look at old RV's and newer ones with the fiberglass gear fairing, I think you will see they look way more sporty.
If you have not installed the metal fairings, get the fiberglass ones and install those. It is worth the cost. George
Wait - they made aluminum gear leg fairings in the past? Is this still an option?
If you can find someone with the old full sized plans with dimensions, you can make your own,. You could write Van if they will make some for you, but I'm pretty sure the fiberglass is standard and it is interchangeable.
