Av8torTom

Av8torTom

Well Known Member
I notice Grove offers their nose wheel with either tapered roller bearings or ball bearings. Which one is more desirable? Also, looking for a pirep on those index roll pins that are installed into the nose wheel fork? They seem like a weak point to me.

Thanks,

Tom
 
Very timely --- me too!

While working on my nose wheel, as part of the condition inspection, I noticed the old Cleveland (early RV-6A) was pretty beat up. I was just getting ready to start shopping for a Matco or Grove replacement.

Recommendations, please, based on experience?

Ron
 
Beringer option

Don't forget this great option...

IMG_5744a.jpg


PS: If anyone is interested I can beat the ACS price by $75
 
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Thanks gents - as per my original question:
Tapered roller bearings or ball bearings. Which one is more desirable?
Also, looking for a pirep on those index roll pins that are installed into the nose wheel fork? They seem like a weak point to me.
 
I?ll jump in here. Having a ton of exposure to the wheels, here is my take. Beringer is good, Grove is good, Matco, because of it?s bearing seal combo sucks. Many of the Matco nose wheels have been changed over to the Grove brand. The pins are there to add security to keep the large spacer from turning inside of the fork which seems to work well and is easy to install and work with. I have personally not seen anything but a tapered roller bearing on a grove wheel but http://www.antisplataero.com/Home.php will convert the matco wheel to sealed bearings. and they do a great job.
You might consider the Grove tubeless wheel, it will rid you of the problematic inner tube.

Good luck, Larry
 
I spoke to Grove

They said that the tapered roller bearings were better than the sealed ball bearings - better side load performance. The tubeless wheel only comes with a sealed ball bearing. They did this to make it like the Beringer wheel. In their (Grove's) opinion they thought the tube wheel with the tapered roller bearing was a better wheel.

Thoughts? Comments?
 
Av8torTom said:
They said that the tapered roller bearings were better than the sealed ball bearings - better side load performance. The tubeless wheel only comes with a sealed ball bearing. They did this to make it like the Beringer wheel. In their (Grove's) opinion they thought the tube wheel with the tapered roller bearing was a better wheel.

Thoughts? Comments?
Click to expand...

There are several threads in the forum arguing the benefits of each. I think that it can easily be argued that taper bearings can indeed take higher side loads. However consider that almost all modern automotive wheel bearings are ball bearings today. Certainly auto applications can see higher sideloads that we see, except one could argue for a sideloaded touchdown.

That said, I think that the advantage of tubeless tires is an offsetting factor. There are many comments about failed tubes. I would go tubeless as a blown tube is more likely than the sideloads causing a problem. Just my .02
 
Anyone see a clear difference between the Grove tubeless and Beringer wheels?... Other than the Beringer wheel being a piece of art. :D

Thanks,

Tom
 
Take 5 min. and watch this

Tom, before you do anything else, take just 5 minutes and watch this video clip. Many of us have had this nose wheel modification done by Anti-Splat. He addresses the very issues you're concerned about. Even if you don't go this route, you'll learn some things in just five minutes. I hope it helps. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpfazTrtbyY

Wheel Bearing Modification
 
Thanks Bruce, I'm familiar with Alan's nose wheel modification. I have not yet purchased a nose wheel and it doesn't seem to make sense to me to buy the Matco wheel and send it out to have it modified when the Grove wheel or the Beringer wheel may already be superior. The Beringer wheel is only $22 more than the Grove wheel - If it's a better wheel then I'll go with it.
 
That makes perfect sense. My finish kit came with Matco Wheels, so it was and easy decision for me to go this route. :)
 
Having said that....

Update - Allan contacted me and made me an offer I couldn't refuse on the Matco nose wheel mod., tire, balancing etc. Should be here on Monday. Gotta love this forum - Thanks Doug!!!
 
Av8torTom said:
Update - Allan contacted me and made me an offer I couldn't refuse on the Matco nose wheel mod., tire, balancing etc. Should be here on Monday. Gotta love this forum - Thanks Doug!!!
Click to expand...

Like you were, I am considering an upgrade to my nose wheel for the RV-7A.

Could you provide a pirep on how the nose wheel is doing?

Thanks,
 
Antisplat Nose Wheel

Hi Don,

My RV-9A isn't flying yet, but the wheel looks great, and I think it's a seriously better alternative to the stock nose wheel. I got talked out of tubeless wheels because, despite their advantages, every FBO carries tubes, and not everyone will have experience with tubeless tires.

 
Av8torTom said:
Hi Don,

My RV-9A isn't flying yet, but the wheel looks great, and I think it's a seriously better alternative to the stock nose wheel. I got talked out of tubeless wheels because, despite their advantages, every FBO carries tubes, and not everyone will have experience with tubeless tires.
Click to expand...

Great point, but please don't be lulled into thinking that most any FBO out there will carry a tube for our tiny little nosewheel tires. That 11-400x5 tube is not a standard aircraft size. In fact, some folks have reported they found that size of tube at the local Tractor Supply store for a wheel barrow tire (though I wonder whether those available locally have the bent stem for our wheels).

I carry a spare nosewheel tube in my travel kit for just this reason.
 
I have 500+ hrs on my original anti-splat nose wheel. By the looks of it I think I can get 500 more. Never a shimmy.
 
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