Eh, it'll work. Acetone works better. MEK works better than acetone. Acetone is actually dimethyl ketone, chemically very similar to MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), MEK is a little stronger solvent for grease and oils.

Ketones are a class of compounds where you have 2 carbon-chain branches linked to a single common carbon atom, which shares a double bond with an oxygen atom. The two carbon chains can be identical (as in acetone, dimethyl ketone) or disimilar (as in MEK, methyl ethyl ketone) and these are what give the solvent it's particular chemical characteristics.

[/nerd mode]
 
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Great post Greg.

I use MEK mostly, just because it cuts darn near everything, cleans paint guns, balances my checkbook, etc. However, I think the key here isn't the particular solvent, but rather the cleaning method.

Don gloves. Hold a sopping wet rag in one hand. Put a clean dry rag in the other. Now scrub with one hand and wipe off with the other before the solvent can evaporate.

If you let the solvent dry before you wipe clean, all you did was spread the contaminants around. With that in mind, acetone is a little fast, MEK is about right, and I reckon you could scrub a long time with mineral spirits or similar.

One more thing. Be careful where you get your rags. If you get a batch that had a previous life involving silicone or other bad things, the solvent can help contaminate the surface.
 
To answer the question, paint thinner can be a mixture of any of a number of solvents. including mek, but generally something like turpentine or naptha.

MEK is generally associated with laquer thinner. The big difference is that thinner can leave a film behind...

For degreasing, a mix of thinner and kerosene works very well.
 
Be careful

I would strongly caution the use of kerosene on alum surfaces. It could leave a lot of residue in the pores of alum and be a real pain to clean possibly giving you fisheyes when you apply the primer.
 
Hey Daniel,
I had good experience with coleman stove fuel. I found it to cut oils, leave no residue, AND its bout as cheap as things get by the gallon.
I dont remember where I first heard of folks using this, but it was in the late90's when I was building my 6.
 
Aden Rich said:
I would strongly caution the use of kerosene on alum surfaces. It could leave a lot of residue in the pores of alum and be a real pain to clean possibly giving you fisheyes when you apply the primer.
Click to expand...

Good point- by degreasing, I was thinking of removing/dissolving engine or road gunk; a cheap substitute for the Stoddard solvent used in garages. For paint prep, you need something that does not leave an oily film- acetone, toluene, 111 TCA, or mek are best.

Coleman fuel is naptha...
 
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I'm almost ready for sealing and riveting my left tank, but I'm unable to find MEK for cleaning the surfaces that will be sealed with Proseal. I don't know why, but when I ask for MEK or Methyl Ethyl Ketone, the typical answer is:"WHAAAAATTT ?!?!??!?!??!?" :confused:

Finding Acetone is quite simple. Can I use it instead of MEK?

Thanks
 
Home depot, Lowes, I think even walmart has MEK. Its in or near the paint dept. Just ask them where their solvents are (paint thinner, mineral spirits, kerosene, etc.)
 
Where?

danielhv said:
Home depot, Lowes, I think even walmart has MEK. Its in or near the paint dept. Just ask them where their solvents are (paint thinner, mineral spirits, kerosene, etc.)
Click to expand...

Hey Daniel, Can you tell Claudio where in Italy those stores are? :D:rolleyes:
 
MEK Toxicity

I am not a Chemistry major, nor did I stay a Holiday Inn Express. I was a huge user of MEK for cleaning just about everything. I spent many hours with MEK soaked rags cleaning the interior belly pans of my Bellanca Viking. Until I attended a seminar put on by Poly Fiber.
Unfortunately, I cannot remember the exact chemical properties of MEK, acetone, laquer thinner, etc., but I do remember that the lecturer stated that MEK was very easily absorbed through the skin and had a high toxicity to ones liver.
Most gloves did not prevent the transfer of vapors and toxins.
I am sure that there are some members who can make a much better informed statement.
On the question first asked in this thread, paint thinner is a petroleum distallate and will leave an oily residue on the surface.
 
Cleaning-de-greasing

Kahuna said:
Hey Daniel,
I had good experience with coleman stove fuel. I found it to cut oils, leave no residue, AND its bout as cheap as things get by the gallon.
I don't remember where I first heard of folks using this, but it was in the late90's when I was building my 6.
Click to expand...


Van's instructions used to recommend Coleman Fuel for cleaning before using Pro-Seal when riveting the fuel tanks. It is a very good degreaser, fingerprint remover etc before Pro-Seal or painting.

As others have commented, MEK and Toluine(sp) are very toxic. Nitrile gloves and breathing apparatus are required at a minimum. Acetone, and Laquer Thinner are probably somewhat less toxic, but I would recommend the above protection as well. Even Coleman Lantern Fuel should be handled with the above cautions, especially if you're young. If you're an old f**t like me, who cares?:D
 
Caution!!!

I cannot overstress enough the toxic properties of MEK. PLEASE go read the Haz-Mat paperwork on it before you use it. It will do things to your liver and body that are horrible!..... ok... more than horrible... its worse than my cooking!!! ( I still don't know how I burned the jello twice...)
Best
Brian
 
Different names for MEK

Claudio,

look for Butanon, Methylpropanon or Methylaceton. This are just different names for MEK.
 
MEK

There are many types of gloves available but only one type which you need to handle MEK that prevent it from being absorbed into your skin. The stuff is
very bad for your liver. Be careful and work safe.
Walt.. RV-6A installing tail feathers, finishing fairings.
 
Found!

After an extensive research I was able to find MEK in a Rome shop specialized in goods for antique furniture restoration. For protection against the hazardous of MEK they suggest nitrile gloves and a 3M respirator (6000 series) with 6051 filters plus sealed googles. Hope it is enough! :eek:

Thank you all! ;)
 
Nitrile golves

So why do the blue nitrile gloves that I've been using quickly start to deteriorate when exposed to MEK? I've been having much better luck with latex:confused:
 
I would wear nitrile with latex over then. Double safety ?? And I have been handling all this stuff bare handed for years. Now you all got me worried!!!
 
Silicone removal?

DanH said:
<SNIP>
One more thing. Be careful where you get your rags. If you get a batch that had a previous life involving silicone or other bad things, the solvent can help contaminate the surface.
Click to expand...

Dan, your post raises two questions I have been considering.

One...if you suspect you have silicone contamination, which solvent (MEK?) would you use in an attempt to remove it? I've seen some silicone removers on the internet, but I can't recall if they revealed their constituents.

Two...I'm planning on using paper towels instead of rags (I'm assuming there won't be silicone in the paper towels), but how can I be sure any new rags I might purchase haven't been contaminated with silicone?

I have recently drilled out my rivets on the trailing edge of my RV-7 rudder because it wasn't straight. I was surprised to see several places where the pro-seal didn't adhere to the aluminum. I strongly suspect the rags I used were contaminated with silicone from those static cling-free cloths we sometimes use in our dryer. I'm trying to mount the courage to go out to the shop and prepare the mating surfaces of that trailing edge for another round of pro-seal and some new rivets but I have to make sure the old surfaces are free of contamination first. Any ideas will be appreciated.

Don
 
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A lot of BS on this subject- as far as solvents go, MEK and acetone are on the safe side in spite of the fact that they both smell bad. Just use the correct glove materials for the solvent and don't drink or bathe in it.

The bad actors are the solvents with a lot of chlorine (methylene chloride, trichloroethane, carbon tetrachloride) or benzine rings (benzene, toluene, zylene, etc) in the chemical structure. They cause cancer, can have low flash points, and they displace oxygen (because they have heavy molecules).
 
So much info from both sides of the aisle. I have always heard pretty much what rtry9a said - stay away from chorides and benzene's.
 
Hi Don,
<<One...if you suspect you have silicone contamination, which solvent (MEK?) would you use in an attempt to remove it?>>

Not sure I'd depend on a solvent, although I suspect MEK busts up almost anything.

The old body shop standard for cars contaminated with Armor-All and similar is Tide laundry detergent. Others like Dawn and Simple Green.

There's a pretty good argument for preping parts by water washing with a strong soap and a Scotchbrite pad, then doing the two-rag thing with a solvent prior to paint. The water wash tells you a lot. Look close at how the water sheets or beads when you rinse. You get to see the problem in advance; if it beads anywhere even slightly, scrub it again. You can resort to acid too (Alumiprep) if you're sure you can rinse/blow it all out. Lately I've been using PPG DX330 or an alcohol-based plastic and fiberglass cleaner for the final wipe.

<<Two...I'm planning on using paper towels instead of rags (I'm assuming there won't be silicone in the paper towels), but how can I be sure any new rags I might purchase haven't been contaminated with silicone?>>

Buy 'em at the paint store and hope for the best <g>.
 
rtry9a said:
To answer the question, paint thinner can be a mixture of any of a number of solvents. including mek, but generally something like turpentine or naptha.

MEK is generally associated with laquer thinner. The big difference is that thinner can leave a film behind...

For degreasing, a mix of thinner and kerosene works very well.
Click to expand...


:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
fyi- By degreasing I was thinking engine/ car parts- not pre-paint preparation.

MEK is far better removing oil residues from everything, including your skin; the thinner/kerosene cuts heavy grease as well as Stoddard.
 
De-natured Alcohol is my choice

Works great for a final clean up before priming/painting to remove any residual oils or grease. MEK/Acetone is hard on the skin and smells bad. I do not like to wear gloves. Kind of subborn that way.....:rolleyes:

-Ron
 
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