hydroguy2

hydroguy2

Well Known Member
got the engine hung today. and now what?
RV-7build366.jpg


I'm thinking hang the prop, so I can figure out the cowling. Can someone point me to the correct procedure for installing a prop and prop spacer?
 
It looks like...

...you need to align the alternator pulley with the ring gear pulley first.

Next would be the prop spacer and back plate. Van's web site has a procedure for simulating this.

Next would be the top and then bottom cowl.

Then you get to have fun installing and trimming the baffles.
 
RE:Great Progress

Hi Brian

Great Progress.

Now the fun begins........:D

Have a Merry Christmas up there in snow country!!!!!!


Frank @ 1L8 ... RV7A ... Flying
 
Brian, Run all the fuel/oil lines, Throttle,mix,prop control, probes and electrical. Check your exhaust to make sure everything fits. You really shouldn't try and fit the cowl until you have the front deck riveted down and the flanges or hinge around the firewall for the cowl mounts. (told ya not to put those lower engine mount bolts in :eek:). It is a lot easier to rivet all that stuff with the engine and mount off. If you are going to use the James plenum go ahead and build up the baffling also. If you can bolt the spinner backplate to the spacer there is no need to put the prop on to fit the cowl. Your comming up on all the joyfull things in the build now. Cowl fitting, canopy, windshield oh its just so fun, NOT. Keep tuckin it looks great. Don
 
Hey Don, Guess I should have waited...Prop is on(temporary), but with the WW prop there is no way to attach the backing plate to the spacer without the prop. Oh well, it was so quick it'll be no big deal pulling it off. I plan on it anyway. Same with the engine and mount. To hang the engine and prop today I haven't spent 2 hrs.

I thought lots of people did there cowl before the top skin was riveted in place:confused: I've got most of my wiring stuff, So could finish the forward wire runs and get to riveting. Canopy is 95% complete, also.

RV-7build369.jpg
 
Your good.

hydroguy2 said:
Hey Don, Guess I should have waited...Prop is on(temporary), but with the WW prop there is no way to attach the backing plate to the spacer without the prop. Oh well, it was so quick it'll be no big deal pulling it off. I plan on it anyway. Same with the engine and mount. To hang the engine and prop today I haven't spent 2 hrs.

I thought lots of people did there cowl before the top skin was riveted in place:confused: I've got most of my wiring stuff, So could finish the forward wire runs and get to riveting. Canopy is 95% complete, also.

RV-7build369.jpg
Click to expand...

You might find the need to shim the hinges so it is best to leave that top skin off until the very last. It looks like you have a lot of FWF wiring to do as well so access under that top skin makes things a lot easier. No problem riveting around the firewall. The squeezer with a small 1" yoke reaches everything. Remember you need to rivet the top skin so plan your wiring under that area to insure you can get a bucking bar in there.
You absolutely need the prop to fit the cowl unless you follow Vans instructions to simulate it. Be very careful if you do and measure against your hub to insure the instructions are accurate. They have not been in the past.
 
Looks to me like you need to remove the engine so you can send the motor mount out to be powder coated yellow to match ... ;)

Ok, kidding aside, you should not attempt to fit the cowl until that deck skin is in place. Easier to trim fiberglass than aluminum. Besides, you want at least the unmovables in place so you can check clearances. Fit the exhaust, carb/FI servo, baffling, things of that nature. You can also get a lot of your FWF wiring done as long as you are sure it won't be near the cowl. Once you've got the deck on and the cowl fitted, you will probably be a lot happier if you remove that prop. Not only does it make it difficult to work around the engine but it also risks getting nicked. You really don't need it to fit the cowl if you use some standoffs and a piece of plywood to simulate the backplate. The prop was the very last item installed on my plane before it's first engine run.
 
FWF order...

I just finished my FWF with a tip-up canopy. I would strongly suggest you NOT rivet that forward skin on until all your FW penetrations and FWF electrical is completed. You can easily cleco that skin in place while fitting the cowl. That forward deck skin needs to be the LAST skin you permanently put in place.

You can see the order of my FWF progress here: http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerv9a/FWF#

Good luck and have fun!
 
prop install

Install Last, here is why.

1. You will end up rotating it to get it out of the way to facilitate other maintenance.

2. It has a chance of getting nicked while building.

3, If your engine is preserved make sure you remove the plugs before you rotate or you may have serious damage.

4. Rotating will clean oil off the cylinder walls leaving them unprotected during your remaining build time.

5. Install exhaust, wiring, accessory's and baffles first.

6, Installing the forward skin and trimming the cowling's should be the last step for completing the fuselage, except for the windscreen.

I am not sure of any reason to put the prop on early but I'm sure others will chime in.

My 2 cents.

Pat
 
Good advice

Lots of good advice. First, either remove the prop or put the sleeves back on to protect the blades.:eek::eek: Keep it purdy!!!!

Next put everything on the engine that you have no choice where it goes. To list a few, complete fuel system, complete exhaust system, alternator, starter, heating system then the control cables. Then do the prop and cowling followed by the baffling and oil cooler.

The front deck skin should be the last piece of construction. You can do the complete cowl without riveting this down. As someone noted, access to this area is very important during the last phase.

Looks great, keep up the work!!!!
 
The prop will come back off...after the cowl shape is determined. I chose to install the prop now because....Vans numbers won't apply to my set-up and I've seen a couple misaligned spinner-cowl gaps to know I was doing mine with the prop.

The blade covers were only off to pose for pictures, it's covered already.

Prop spacer is needed with the James extended cowling.

I'll probably won't start on the cowling for 2 weeks, so in the meantime I'll start figuring out the big power cables, exhaust and fuel hoses.
 
Pat Stewart said:
Install Last, here is why.

3, If your engine is preserved make sure you remove the plugs before you rotate or you may have serious damage.
Pat
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate on this? What kind of damage would you expect? Are you saying that the desiccant plugs are not capable of the pressures created from slowly rotating the crank to position the prop during cowl / baffle fit-up? Are you aware of failure of the desiccant plugs?
 
Yes, please elaborate

Originally Posted by Pat Stewart
Install Last, here is why.

3, If your engine is preserved make sure you remove the plugs before you rotate or you may have serious damage.
Pat
Noah said:
Can you elaborate on this? What kind of damage would you expect? Are you saying that the desiccant plugs are not capable of the pressures created from slowly rotating the crank to position the prop during cowl / baffle fit-up? Are you aware of failure of the desiccant plugs?
Click to expand...


About 4 months ago I bought a Lyc O-360-A1A, narrow deck, chrome cylinders, overhauled. All parts were magnafluxed and yellow tagged. I pulled the upper plugs and replaced them with desiccant plugs.

The mechanic I bought the engine from said to turn it once in a while so I do that. I remove the desiccant plugs and replace them after turning it a couple times. I remove them because of the engine compression.

The engine is stored in a plastic bag inside a wooden box. Being in a dry climate I'm not too worried about corrosion but am wondering now if maybe I've damaged my engine.
 
Prop install

When an engine has been preserved it is likely that oil has been poured in the top of the cylinders. If you have a complete seal (spark plugs) and turn the engine the cylinders could (depending on the amount of oil) create enough hydraulic pressure to damage the engine. Vans should be telling you the same thing. (assuming you ordered your engine from them)

Even if the oil is not an issue in your engine it is still not a good idea to rotate the engine until you must. Keep that thin film of oil on your cylinder walls while you build.

Pat
 
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