R

ron sterba

Well Known Member
Was using the pop rivet way of dimpling the skin under the rudder pedals but dimple sort of sucks. The skin is already on the plane. I am adding extra floor brackets for a floor panel and need a Good dimpler. I once heard somebody using a screw- ( screw has 100 degree angle on it) in-type to a solid bar. Not sure if he made it or bought it. Any ideas? Thanks

Ron in Oregon
 
I believe that fwd bottom skin is.040 and can easily be machine countersunk. That is what I did on most of it.
 
Kelley Thanks. My kit is the QB 9A. I thought it might be on the border of dimple and countersink. Since I have started to triple CHECK before I drill or do anything THE FORUMS PAGE IS THE WAY!!! Now I just read that .032 is the the rule of thumb for dimple to countersink. You are very right my friend!! How"s the 9A flying?
Ron in Oregon
 
I used the C-frame to dimple most of it. Of course, the middle section can't be reached so for that section I used the pop-rivet dimpler.

I made it a practice to not countersink unless absolutely necessary.
 
Hi Ron,

If you have the room around the hole and a helper, mount the female die in a bucking bar or piece of scrap iron (for mass). If you have a die holder set for your rivet gun, insert the male die in the special set made to hold it (and assemble it to your rivet gun). Set really low pressure for the gun. Insert the male die in the hole, have your helper center the female die assembly over the other side of the hole, & lightly drive until you get a satisfactory dimple. If you don't have the die-holder set, use a regular mushroom set in the gun and an over-length rivet in the hole as the male die.

Charlie
 
rv7charlie said:
If you have the room around the hole and a helper, mount the female die in a bucking bar or piece of scrap iron (for mass). If you have a die holder set for your rivet gun, insert the male die in the special set made to hold it (and assemble it to your rivet gun). Set really low pressure for the gun. Insert the male die in the hole, have your helper center the female die assembly over the other side of the hole, & lightly drive until you get a satisfactory dimple.
Click to expand...

This is exactly the way I did it. You will find other areas in the project where you need to dimple countersink parts that are already on the plane. Just be aware that this only works for a single sheet. You of course can't dimple two sheets simultaneously.

This is precisely why many tool vendors (i.e. Cleveland) sell die holders that fit your rivet gun.
 
Bill, Charlie and Jamie. Now Iam cooking thanks for the ideas and I'll put them to use tomorrow. I guess I was Brain Dead!! Thanks for the wake-up call. Sometimes you get so focused you forget to look outside the creatative circle I wear on my shoulders.
Ron in Oregon QB9A DUH!
 
Jamie said:
This is exactly the way I did it. You will find other areas in the project where you need to dimple countersink parts that are already on the plane. Just be aware that this only works for a single sheet. You of course can't dimple two sheets simultaneously.

This is precisely why many tool vendors (i.e. Cleveland) sell die holders that fit your rivet gun.
Click to expand...

I've had to dimple one or two small areas that were already assembled on my SB -7 (due to not being able to think a year ahead of time for where to mount some accessories, etc.). We did almost the same thing...female dimple die in a big steel bucking bar (for mass), but instead of using the rivet gun, we took the steel "rod" out of the C-frame set and used that, along with a deadblow hammer. Worked beautifully, and no chance of "over-driving" it (since it now works just like a C-frame dimple without the frame :) ).
 
Hey Steve that works perfectly. So does the light tapping of the rivet gun that Charlie mentioned. Great ideas and putting me back on track worked well.
Ron in Oregon
 
You must log in or register to reply here.