C

cbrown747

Active Member
My financee bought what they said was everything I needed to build both the practice tool kit and the airfoil practice kit. She bought these tools from cleveland tools after she told them what I was intending to do but I believe the hand sqeezer for dimpling(not sure what it is called) that has the c-shape end seems to be the tool I need although it seems quite expensive for something that simply dimples metal.

Can anybody tell me if there is anything other than this that I could use? I am aware of the c-shape table tool for dimpling and the pnematic squeezer(too expensive).

I will buy the hand sqeezer if this is what I need. Also is there a squeezer that I should stay clear from?
 
The cleveland main squeeze is nice. I bought a used one off of this site. You can find cheaper ones, try Avery Tools or The yard store(yardstore.com) I believe they both have economy rivet squeezers (which also dimple as previously posted). Good luck
 
low cost

If you are measuring value in pure dollars, then you can get the "Close Quarters Die Set" from Cleveland. You can build an entire airplane with them; in fact, I know someone who did. However, it will take you much longer to do the same task compared to having the correct tool for the job.

You will find you need other tools besides ones offered in the kit. There are plenty of consumables you will go through too.

In the grand scheme of things, the tool investment to the project is just a small cost.

that being said, I love my DRDT-2. Superior over the c-frame imho. I have a hand squeezer, but my pneumatic squeezer gets 95% of the use over the hand squeezer.

Perhaps visit another builder or two and try out the different options.
 
The hand squeezer and pneumatic squeezer cannot dimple the interior of the skins: their throats aren't deep enough. The Close Quarters Die Set would drive you crazy: not meant for bulk dimpling. You're going to need (at least, desire strongly) some form of C-frame dimpler. The Avery C-Frame works just fine but the DRDT-2 is a work of art—admittedly, at twice the price—and is much easier on the ears (no hammering). Both produce good dimples.

- John
 
Last edited:
C frame simpler dimpler.

I can't imagine dimpeling large skins without
a "C-frame". You can then buy the 12" back rivet tool
to use with the c frame. Does a great job!
Use a rubber mallet and it's softer on the ears.
Build a platform for the c frame to support the large skins.
 
I was watching a video 'rv builder basics' and the host mentioned the to use the c-frame dimpler you should build it into the workbench. In other words, modify the bench so that the bottom part of the c-frame is under the bench so that skins can lay flat while you perform the dimple operation.

Is this really necessary?
 
No!

Do not build it into the bench. You will need the bench
for other uses and the c- frame will get in the way.
Put the c frame on top of the bench and build a seperate
platform that the c frame fits into. In my opion yes it is needed to keep the large skins 90 to the dimpler. Generally you put the male dimple
on the bottom. Build the platform so that it is very close to flush when the dimple is inserted. Buy the conversion base and 12" back rivet tool. Cheap and well worth it. It does perfect riveting an is cheaper than a pneumatic squeezer. Feel free to call with any questions. 401-862-5577. Check out the video at EAA.org using a c frame to rivet. There are many other GREAT building tip videos on this site. Al
 
Last edited:
cbrown747 said:
I was watching a video 'rv builder basics' and the host mentioned the to use the c-frame dimpler you should build it into the workbench. In other words, modify the bench so that the bottom part of the c-frame is under the bench so that skins can lay flat while you perform the dimple operation.

Is this really necessary?
Click to expand...

no, i used foam matting to bring the level of the table up to the dimple die level

i set the c frame up on the table, add the foam mat to each side till the al sheets are just the right level. works great
 
Last edited:
agirard7a said:
Do not build it into the bench. You will need the bench
for other uses and the c- frame will get in the way.
Put the c frame on top of the bench and build a seperate
platform that the c frame fits into. In my opion yes it is needed to keep the large skins 90 to the dimpler. Generally you put the male dimple
on the bottom. Build the platform so that it is very close to flush when the dimple is inserted. Buy the conversion base and 12" back rivet tool. Cheap and well worth it. It does perfect riveting an is cheaper than a pneumatic squeezer. Feel free to call with any questions. 401-862-5577. Check out the video at EAA.org using a c frame to rivet. There are many other GREAT building tip videos on this site. Al
Click to expand...

I don't have a picture handy, but I'll try to describe what I inherited from my buddy after he was done with his -8 and I was starting the -7...

It's basically a sheet of plywood maybe 3' x 4', and on top of that he laid several 2x4s along the 3' dimension, maybe 8" apart, with the middle two just wide enough for the C-frame to nestle in. I think he ripped the 2x4s so that their heights once attached to the plywood *precisely* match the top of a dimple die when it's inserted into the bottom of the C-frame. Thus, a large sheet can be laid nice and flat and moved all over to be dimpled, and it lies flat because the 2x4s support it.

Does that make sense? I can take a picture tomorrow and post it if you wish...

Been a great tool, I used it for the wings, the fuselage and bunches of other stuff...
 
Danny7 said:
no, i used foam matting to bring the level of the table up to the dimple die level

i set the c frame up on the table, add the foam mat to each side till the al sheets are just the right level. works great
Click to expand...

I agree with above (except I use flattened cardboard boxes to raise up the sheets). You will need to move the C-frame around to do the ends of large sheets and it's very quick and easy to just rearrange your c-frame and foam (or cardboard).

John
 
I built my C frame into the table, but in retrospect, using foam or cardboard to support the sheeting is a better idea. This allows you to freely move the C frame around to accomodate the shape of your work. A C frame or DRDT-2 is necessary, as is a hand or air squeezer and a multitude of other small hand dimplers like the pop rivet and vice grip dimplers. A variety of yokes for the squeezer is also a must have. A good rivet gun is necessary and a good air drill is nice.

Scrimping on tools only leads to difficulty in performing tasks, which could lead to poor workmanship, damaged parts needing replacement, and possibly abandoning the project out of frustration. Going to an aircraft type of sheet metal class or RV assembly seminar is also highly recommended if you haven't ever done this type of work before.

Roberta
 
I have an Avery C frame. It works great, and while i've read fantastic things about the DRDT, I just never got around to "upgrading." Having just gone dimpled my tanks, I can say that noise from banging all those out isn't terribly pleasant for yourself or your neighbors!

This is what I built when working on the emp to hold up skins while dimpling. It's big enough to hold enough of the skin that whatever is over the edge doesn't bend too much--although sometimes I need to support with something else.

100_1698.JPG
 
thanks for all the great ideas. I am a computer programmer and I have never witnessed such a wonderful and responsive forum as this one and I have tried many for my occupation. It surely lives up to the reputation of being one of the best sources for information.
 
cbrown747 said:
thanks for all the great ideas. I am a computer programmer and I have never witnessed such a wonderful and responsive forum as this one and I have tried many for my occupation. It surely lives up to the reputation of being one of the best sources for information.
Click to expand...

Yes, I also work in the exciting and rewarding field of IT I find it refreshing to ask questions, or post comments, and not be flamed by everyone with a computer and an opinion. :)

One last thing. The DRDT will come with plans to build a table similar to datsclark's above (nice table, btw) which you can modify in length or depth or whatever.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.